In a pinch, you can use two small flathead screwdrivers going the opposite directions, to lift up guitar knobs. And those little holes in the back of the tuners are for oiling ... a drop or two of 3-IN-1 when you change strings could help keep those gears working easily ... I changed out a lot of cheap tuners, to Grovers and Schallers, back in the early-to-mid '70s, using hand tools on Martins and Gibsons. The dust was as dry as the Sahara because the guitars were not humidified. In my humble opinion, that weakens the neck/headstock area and helps cause those breaks on old guitars. Those breaks were the reason both Gibson and Martin added volutes to their necks in that era. Most players are nuts about originality; but you can replace that cheap, pot-metal ABR1 bridge with a Callaham, made from a solid block of cold rolled steel ... sound difference is quite amazing. Callaham also makes Bigsby rollers out of cold rolled steel that make strings easier to replace and makes the guitar sound better.
Great video, I really fell in love with these guitars a few years ago after working on a few then doing my ES345 rebuild. Couple comments: - regarding the harness age difference, check the freshness of the solder where the pickup wires mount to the volume pots, and where the ground wire meets the harness. Because this guitar doesnt have the large block cutaway under the bridge pickup route, the harness HAS to go into the body thru the F hole, and then the pickup wires are soldered onto the pots after their wires are sent into the route holes and body cavity, a transplanted harness must have reworked solder there. If you REALLY think the solder is original, you will have to consider it may be stock and the guitar left the factory in late 62 at the earliest. - I have also seen scraped binding on various Gibsons, the clear coat can go so dark it seems to drive owners nuts and they scrape it away, I have a 74 335 where the clearcoat over the binding is BROWN - from observing pictures online for years, I noticed that the neck pickup routes often have red lacquer in them, while the bridge routes are left quite clear and free of colour perhaps blocked off during the colouring process. The way this guitar is clear in both routes, and the colour of the guitar itself, makes me think that it got the direct stained finish without the clear red spray coat over the top, which seems to be the later colour method. Check out my similar video with a '66 lake placid blue strat th-cam.com/video/OK5wb9X3Gj0/w-d-xo.html&lc=z23jdhx54uydytqpn04t1aokgjjlwhrp2kdoojgz3qyjrk0h00410
Jonathan Krogh thanks Jonathan! Great insights here. The solder on the back of the volume pot looked good. I was surprised that they would scrape the binding on this one since the clear coat isn’t that yellowed but who knows! It’s a great looking guitar. I will check out your video!
John, so great to chat today! Thanks for this amazing video and please keep me posted on an all-original, early, mint Telecaster Deluxe! I want that guitar!!!
Thanks Tyler!! I'm very honored by your subscription! I've got a really interesting guitar coming up this week that I'm excited to show off. Can't wait to post it!
Did this Gibson model have the standard oval tuners at one time ? I had the same Gibson the Gibson tremolo bar but the tune is were different but original... I'm trying to date the Gibson that I had
Thanks! Yeah the StewMac screwdriver set is perfect for every guitar player. I've used it so many times and it saves both screw heads and a lot of time looking for screwdrivers. Get you one!
Dunno. I'm no vintage expert but I've always loved the es335 more than any other electric. That one isn't for me because I've no use for Bigsbys or Vibrolas at all. I'm puzzled about the black inserts where the stoptail holes have been filled. From around that time, es335s came as either stoptail or tailpiece and the tailpiece one more-or-less disappeared as the 60s rolled on. It's making something of a comeback but......I've owned an early tailpiece es335, nylon nut and nylon bridge saddles, all that tra la la and I've seen quite a lot of those guitars from that period and I've never seen any factory-drilled for stoptail and then filled to fit a tailpiece. I've never seen those buttons or any cover plate on any of them. Nor does this actually make sense. The very early "fat neck" ones from 58 and 59 were produced with the tailpiece and the "stop" came later with the revised neck so at the time, the production default would have been to make all of them for a tailpiece and not drill them for the stoptail. I've never seen those factory drilled-and-filled - and I've seen a good number of them. I own one and I looked at many before buying it. I'm not an expert and our friend here is. I would have said that the Bigsby is an after-fit and looked for the tailpiece mounting screws. He says it's grounded via the Bigsby so.......that's the way it is. Tailpiece ones were also grounded though. I'd also mention that those shiny black plastic things don't look like 1962 plastic but......I've never seen anything like that offered after-market by anybody for those that converted their es335 (which happened sometimes) or retrofitting a Bigsby to an SG etc. By 61 and 62, almost all of those with the cherry finish came stoptail from factory as the jazz-like tailpiece went out of fashion and appeared almost always on sunbursts. I'd have guessed this has started as a stoptail model, the Bigsby was after-fitted early in this guitar's life and the black plastic studs sourced much later - comparing their "sheen" with the p/up rings. Until that time I'd guess it probably had the threaded studs for the stoptail still in there and that it has no redundant screw holes for a tailpiece. The scratch plate also looks much newer too. Although period correct, it doesn't fit as an original - it doesn't meet the treble p/up ring and it's not a Gibson part. Interestingly, the complicated little side bracket looks right but the little fixing screw by the neck doesn't have the patina of the other brightwork and I'd guess the owner that installed the trem also didn't want the scratch plate. Look at the back where it's glued to a small plastic block held by the side bracket? Odd! My thanks, we live and learn. First time I ever saw those on an es335 - or any other guitar. So...huge money for originality? Not in this case so you can replace the tuners; no danger - but It would be of some interest to weigh it. Not to talk about authenticity but because later ones (including vos re-issues) have been beefed up and are substantially heavier. On stage it makes a difference and maybe sound wise too so that could be a good reason to ask the price....and "Where's the case?"
I recently bought a used Gibson Les Paul Classic 2017. The best thing about it is the damn nibs. I own two fender guitars, both which I find to be very sturdy and strong guitars. I also had the chance of playing a few guitars that sported neck binding but no nibs. I didn't even know that nibs where a thing. My brain would just not think that nibs exist. Until I got that Les Paul.... Jesus christ was it different. It's a real shame if your nibs are taken away from you. F
Thank you probably one of the most informative vintage Gibson videos. My 61 has a serial number under 10,000 does this mean it was done in the first half of the year? I believe the pots date to late 60
Thanks David! A 4 digit serial number likely dates the guitar to 1961. I'd love to see it. Would you shoot me some pictures? John@truevintageguitar.com.
@@truevintageguitar yeah I know this already it is easy to lookup I want to know roughly when in 61. Wish I had access to what's left of their shipping ledgers
Great video, but please stop saying "guitar safari" and "wiggle stick" . Those are already too synonymous with other people. Come up with your own lingo amigo!!
Thanks for your feedback Brandon! I've enjoyed making these videos. I just texted both of those guys and they said it was ok if I used the terms. Thanks for your feedback! Cheers!
Why don't you continue to strip all those screws and scratch up that guitar with that screwdriver, vintage guitars you don't take apart f*** around with
In a pinch, you can use two small flathead screwdrivers going the opposite directions, to lift up guitar knobs. And those little holes in the back of the tuners are for oiling ... a drop or two of 3-IN-1 when you change strings could help keep those gears working easily ... I changed out a lot of cheap tuners, to Grovers and Schallers, back in the early-to-mid '70s, using hand tools on Martins and Gibsons. The dust was as dry as the Sahara because the guitars were not humidified. In my humble opinion, that weakens the neck/headstock area and helps cause those breaks on old guitars. Those breaks were the reason both Gibson and Martin added volutes to their necks in that era. Most players are nuts about originality; but you can replace that cheap, pot-metal ABR1 bridge with a Callaham, made from a solid block of cold rolled steel ... sound difference is quite amazing. Callaham also makes Bigsby rollers out of cold rolled steel that make strings easier to replace and makes the guitar sound better.
Great video, I really fell in love with these guitars a few years ago after working on a few then doing my ES345 rebuild.
Couple comments:
- regarding the harness age difference, check the freshness of the solder where the pickup wires mount to the volume pots, and where the ground wire meets the harness. Because this guitar doesnt have the large block cutaway under the bridge pickup route, the harness HAS to go into the body thru the F hole, and then the pickup wires are soldered onto the pots after their wires are sent into the route holes and body cavity, a transplanted harness must have reworked solder there. If you REALLY think the solder is original, you will have to consider it may be stock and the guitar left the factory in late 62 at the earliest.
- I have also seen scraped binding on various Gibsons, the clear coat can go so dark it seems to drive owners nuts and they scrape it away, I have a 74 335 where the clearcoat over the binding is BROWN
- from observing pictures online for years, I noticed that the neck pickup routes often have red lacquer in them, while the bridge routes are left quite clear and free of colour perhaps blocked off during the colouring process. The way this guitar is clear in both routes, and the colour of the guitar itself, makes me think that it got the direct stained finish without the clear red spray coat over the top, which seems to be the later colour method.
Check out my similar video with a '66 lake placid blue strat th-cam.com/video/OK5wb9X3Gj0/w-d-xo.html&lc=z23jdhx54uydytqpn04t1aokgjjlwhrp2kdoojgz3qyjrk0h00410
Jonathan Krogh thanks Jonathan! Great insights here. The solder on the back of the volume pot looked good. I was surprised that they would scrape the binding on this one since the clear coat isn’t that yellowed but who knows! It’s a great looking guitar. I will check out your video!
John, so great to chat today! Thanks for this amazing video and please keep me posted on an all-original, early, mint Telecaster Deluxe! I want that guitar!!!
Really enjoying these videos. I found your channel after seeing a comment of yours on another guitar channel. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Tyler!! I'm very honored by your subscription! I've got a really interesting guitar coming up this week that I'm excited to show off. Can't wait to post it!
@@truevintageguitar Great! I'm looking forward to seeing more content!
Brilliant!! the perfect detail us guitar geeks want to see, please do more!!! Really brilliant!!!
Did this Gibson model have the standard oval tuners at one time ? I had the same Gibson the Gibson tremolo bar but the tune is were different but original... I'm trying to date the Gibson that I had
The scraped binding could mean a refinish? or a clear coat spray.
If only I had such a set of tools many years ago :) great video once again
Thanks! Yeah the StewMac screwdriver set is perfect for every guitar player. I've used it so many times and it saves both screw heads and a lot of time looking for screwdrivers. Get you one!
Dunno. I'm no vintage expert but I've always loved the es335 more than any other electric. That one isn't for me because I've no use for Bigsbys or Vibrolas at all. I'm puzzled about the black inserts where the stoptail holes have been filled.
From around that time, es335s came as either stoptail or tailpiece and the tailpiece one more-or-less disappeared as the 60s rolled on. It's making something of a comeback but......I've owned an early tailpiece es335, nylon nut and nylon bridge saddles, all that tra la la and I've seen quite a lot of those guitars from that period and I've never seen any factory-drilled for stoptail and then filled to fit a tailpiece. I've never seen those buttons or any cover plate on any of them.
Nor does this actually make sense. The very early "fat neck" ones from 58 and 59 were produced with the tailpiece and the "stop" came later with the revised neck so at the time, the production default would have been to make all of them for a tailpiece and not drill them for the stoptail. I've never seen those factory drilled-and-filled - and I've seen a good number of them. I own one and I looked at many before buying it.
I'm not an expert and our friend here is. I would have said that the Bigsby is an after-fit and looked for the tailpiece mounting screws. He says it's grounded via the Bigsby so.......that's the way it is. Tailpiece ones were also grounded though. I'd also mention that those shiny black plastic things don't look like 1962 plastic but......I've never seen anything like that offered after-market by anybody for those that converted their es335 (which happened sometimes) or retrofitting a Bigsby to an SG etc.
By 61 and 62, almost all of those with the cherry finish came stoptail from factory as the jazz-like tailpiece went out of fashion and appeared almost always on sunbursts. I'd have guessed this has started as a stoptail model, the Bigsby was after-fitted early in this guitar's life and the black plastic studs sourced much later - comparing their "sheen" with the p/up rings. Until that time I'd guess it probably had the threaded studs for the stoptail still in there and that it has no redundant screw holes for a tailpiece. The scratch plate also looks much newer too. Although period correct, it doesn't fit as an original - it doesn't meet the treble p/up ring and it's not a Gibson part. Interestingly, the complicated little side bracket looks right but the little fixing screw by the neck doesn't have the patina of the other brightwork and I'd guess the owner that installed the trem also didn't want the scratch plate. Look at the back where it's glued to a small plastic block held by the side bracket?
Odd! My thanks, we live and learn. First time I ever saw those on an es335 - or any other guitar.
So...huge money for originality? Not in this case so you can replace the tuners; no danger - but It would be of some interest to weigh it. Not to talk about authenticity but because later ones (including vos re-issues) have been beefed up and are substantially heavier. On stage it makes a difference and maybe sound wise too so that could be a good reason to ask the price....and "Where's the case?"
A bit of smoke up your arse.....
Fascinating stuff! Your knowledge is frightening. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! I appreciate the kind feedback as well. Cheers!
I recently bought a used Gibson Les Paul Classic 2017. The best thing about it is the damn nibs. I own two fender guitars, both which I find to be very sturdy and strong guitars. I also had the chance of playing a few guitars that sported neck binding but no nibs. I didn't even know that nibs where a thing. My brain would just not think that nibs exist. Until I got that Les Paul.... Jesus christ was it different. It's a real shame if your nibs are taken away from you.
F
Excellent video!
Keep it up man!!!!! Entertaining and informative
Thanks Jared! I really appreciate the kind feedback. I had a blast making this one. More to come.
Thank you probably one of the most informative vintage Gibson videos. My 61 has a serial number under 10,000 does this mean it was done in the first half of the year? I believe the pots date to late 60
Thanks David! A 4 digit serial number likely dates the guitar to 1961. I'd love to see it. Would you shoot me some pictures? John@truevintageguitar.com.
@@truevintageguitar yeah I know this already it is easy to lookup I want to know roughly when in 61. Wish I had access to what's left of their shipping ledgers
Definitely has that PAF tone
And good job on getting that harness out
kwp1977 😅 thanks! I’ve had a lot of practice fishing out potentiometers through F holes recently. This one went relatively smoothly.
The fun really starts when you get the harness with those darn shielding cans around the pots
@@jothanankrogh Oh man I hate those in the 345s and 355s!
Just awesome.
Thanks David! You should come play this guitar.
@@truevintageguitar Would love to!
Love your channel dude. Followed you just now on Instagram @edmayle
Thanks Ed! Followed back. See you out there!
this alone is a movie itself great work, love your insights to this vintage guitar thank you for the education :) @hanoboogie signing off.
Goh Wai Han thank you @hanoboogie!! I really appreciate the kind words. Thanks for watching! -John
Yeah its a '62 lol. You even had a long pause before saying 1962.
29:50 OMFG that is the worst guitar tone I have ever heard in my 54 years
Great video, but please stop saying "guitar safari" and "wiggle stick" . Those are already too synonymous with other people. Come up with your own lingo amigo!!
Thanks for your feedback Brandon! I've enjoyed making these videos. I just texted both of those guys and they said it was ok if I used the terms. Thanks for your feedback! Cheers!
Why don't you continue to strip all those screws and scratch up that guitar with that screwdriver, vintage guitars you don't take apart f*** around with
Thanks for watching Santino! No screw heads were harmed in the making of this video :)
Lol someone was triggered …. 👀