I use 12:1 because it feels much more natural to me, 16:1 almost always feels like a bus. I did hold a Pro/WC license at one time and I always used 12:1. It's really just what you're used to.
1:59 I was in the 16:1 brigade when I had my G920. This summer I upgraded to the PS version of the Fanatec 8nm DD wheel (because that's what was in stock at the time!) and...I haven't touched the setups in any of the cars since. I have a strong suspicion that the setups that get shipped as Default are tested for feel and performance by iRacing Software QA testers in-house _on DD hardware_ . That would go a long, long way toward explaining why I used to tweak and tweak at every track to get the right feel...and now I just get in the car and go drive - and any changes I make, make the car *worse* overall.
1:59 The other thing to note is that _wheel diameter doesn't matter_ - the mathematics are the same. at 16:1, rotating the wheel 16 degrees yields 1 degree of tire angle on the ground in that direction. The difference between wheel rim sizes is the distance you have to move your hands to get to 16 degrees of rotation on the wheel. Larger rim, larger motion to get the same angle on the wheel. e.g. to get 1 degree of tire angle on the ground, you need to turn the wheel 16 degrees, or .04 of a full turn. On a 13" wheel (40" circumference), that's 1.77" movement by your hands. On a 19" wheel (60" circumference), that's 2.66' movement by your hands. Mathematically, you're turning both wheels the same amount - sixteen degrees off center to get 1 degree on the tire - but you have to displace your hands from 'center' further with a larger steering wheel radius - which, given a constant average speed of motion for the driver's hands means that the larger wheel takes 50% longer for the same input - or the other way around...the driver with the 19" wheel rim needs to move their hands *faster* to accomplish the same input in the same time as the driver with the 13" wheel rim, and 19" guy's arms are going to get tired. :D There's a whole can of worms to investigate there... 😹 It's all tradeoffs, because at a certain point, there's a *minimum* amount you can reasonably turn the wheel while just driving straight, and if the wheel rim is TOO small, then you can't hold a straight line...
This is really hard to wrap your head around because it literally “feels” quicker. If you ever get a chance to drive something with a 10” wheel like a lot of older formula cars it’s amazing how your brain translates the outcome to “quicker steering”.
I have found that with my driving style, sometimes 14:1 and 16:1 makes me drive completely differently (leaning on RR instead of RF) eventhough it is just preference like you mentioned. I would recommend everyone to just try out what works best for them on any given track and to experiment with it, great vid!
Thank you for this. Running 16:1 basically helps with muscle memory and accuracy, but some people would have you believe it has some fundamental effect on the steering behaviour of the car that magically makes tires wear less. Every degree you're off by in your steering input running 12:1 is 33⅓% worse than running 16:1 in terms of what your front tires do.
I have the Fanatec NASCAR 16" wheel hanging off my Clubsport hub and typically run 10:1 everywhere. Even 8:1 at the 3/8's tracks. But, I'm one of those drivers who doesn't turn the wheel that much, using the brakes and throttle to rotate the car as much as the wheel. Plus, I like the higher level of precision you get with 10:1 and 8:1 for those moments where you need lightening quick steering input to avoid other cars and gather up the car when it gets loose. Likewise, I run either the 2.8 in/rev or the 3.15 in/rev in the Gen7.
Through my years on the service I've gone all over the place. Pro 18 I was 12:1, RTP 19 was 14:1, RTP 20 was 10:1, RTP 21 was 16:1, Coke was all over the place but my best run at Kansas was the ~3.15 pinion or whatever the quickest is. HTD300 22 was 10:1. The moral of the story is that even with the same wheel, same settings, same driver, sometimes same year. It's worth making a few 30s changing steering ratios and seeing which you tend to do best with and rolling with that for that build or week. Always be open to changing it and trying something new
Here’s what I know: the last time trucks were on Talladega I ran 16:1 and I net lost irating and sr that week. This week trucks back on Dega and so far I’m net positive +175 irating using 12:1. I find in tight pack racing the less I need to input the wheel the better for me
Wouldnt say you opinion was wrong, i think your opinion just has evolved. Ive felt this way since i started about steering ratio, but i also have tons to learn within pretty well every aspect. Your vids still help more than ever
I did a video once on Steering Ratio (NR2003) and Steering Lock (isiMotor), and demonstrated the difference in both games. And last time I was on iRacing, I think I was using a wheel with a 180° rotation range, but told the game it was 270° to help me at tracks like Bristol. Though in hind sight, I should have just reduced the steering ratio. On NR2003 (I don't have an active iRacing subscription right now), I use something like 20:1 for Tereana City simply because anything tighter will instantly spin the car in the turns.
I had someone explain it like this, and it helped me a lot: higher ratio means less tire wear, meaning more consistent lap times, but you sacrifice control on entry and exit... Lower ratio means better control on entry and exit, but at the cost of tire wear... He said there are exceptions to this, but in general it's a good starting point.
I’ve used 16:1 religiously since I started, but I’ve noticed in my league races while I’m usually the fastest car at the end of fuel runs, it’s never enough to get to the lead. So I’m thinking about running 14:1 some next year, to see if I can get more early pace while still saving tires
It would be nice to see a video on the newer Next Gen Car Steering ratio’s.., The last video I seen on it left me even more confused with that particular car and settings.
The Gen7 steering can be a bit of a mystery. But, the rack & pinion steering is even quicker than the steering box. The lowest in/rev number in the Gen7 is about where the 10:1 starts if you ask me and only gets quicker from there. It's inches per revolution in the Gen7. Meaning the wheels move left/right the number given, in inches of travel for one 360 revolution of the steering wheel.
I'm a bit crazy and I run pretty small steering ratios, on the truck I run 6:1 on superspeedways because I just think it's funny to drift around on the backstretch when I get bored lol... I've ran fast trying just about everything under the sun with steering ratios, it's really all just about what you are comfortable with
Used to watch you all the time, essentially were the reason I bought iracing in the first place. Those old NIS videos were incredibly entertaining to watch.
I'm definitely a weirdo when it comes to this. I lock my G29 to 360 degrees. I think it has to do with how small the wheel is. I'm sure it is biting me in the butt somehow, but I can't do it any other way.
I map one to one in game I set up my wheel in iRacing and map it to 1080 in game I use Sim Comander 4.5 software and set my wheel speed per a car basis using it. Sim Comander 4.5 has a Drive and Tune function i use and then custom tune from there.
Played Nascar heat for years always ran 240 ratio on the game . Tried to go with the flow and use the high ratios in iracing . Struggled and struggled. Moved it down to 900 on game . 8:110:1. Went from 1500k to 3600 k in a month or so … Goodluck to anyone that’s able to be fast and move the wheel that much. U gotta keep the car on edge and I can’t find that possible at high ratios , yes u save tire . But u can’t turn into the corner, then u find yourself wanting to turn more .
Mark Martin said that they rarely if ever go over 10 to 1 in real life. The issue I have is that "fixed" setup races are not really fixed when you can make chassis adjustments. That puts lazy people like me that dont want to spend a bunch of testing time to figure out what's best at a distinct disadvantage and thats down right unamerican. Throw in the fact that I am a boomer that grew up with the Gen 4 cars and previous and I don't stand a chance. What the hell is a click of this and a click of that, why is there an extra gear in this car, where are the rest of my lug nuts and how the hell did the high line become the fast line?
At what point does a slide result in an incident? Is a minor slide with a recovery ok or is that considered a loss of control resulting in an incident ?
You help me out alot with Arca series idk if you can do a video on the Next Gen A Fixed Cup Cars I'm terrible in them ever since they added the front mc and rear mc
@DJYeeJay I honestly think you would offer some really good insight regardless of the car you're talking. I am about 7 months into iRacing and I really got to be where I am at today (1850-2000K IR) in part to your guides. I was so lost when I started. Thanks. P.S. You could do a video talking about IR and the level of competition at you gain IR. Like where I am bracketed at now I am the bottom IR in Top Split and its very competitive.
I have been saying all of this for years and just get ignored by the crowd that thinks there is speed in the steering ratios. I was just missing the part where it is helpful for
WRONG. You can be more accurate on 16:1. Take a line. Divide it into 12 pieces. Now divide it into 16 pieces. There's 4 more places for input. In 12:1 you literally can't hit all the angles because the wheel isn't divided the sane amount of times. Your missing points of turn.
I use 12:1 because it feels much more natural to me, 16:1 almost always feels like a bus. I did hold a Pro/WC license at one time and I always used 12:1. It's really just what you're used to.
OBRL is the best place to race thanks for the feature!! We are the cleanest racers out there with the best races!
how do i race that
1:59 I was in the 16:1 brigade when I had my G920. This summer I upgraded to the PS version of the Fanatec 8nm DD wheel (because that's what was in stock at the time!) and...I haven't touched the setups in any of the cars since.
I have a strong suspicion that the setups that get shipped as Default are tested for feel and performance by iRacing Software QA testers in-house _on DD hardware_ .
That would go a long, long way toward explaining why I used to tweak and tweak at every track to get the right feel...and now I just get in the car and go drive - and any changes I make, make the car *worse* overall.
1:59 The other thing to note is that _wheel diameter doesn't matter_ - the mathematics are the same. at 16:1, rotating the wheel 16 degrees yields 1 degree of tire angle on the ground in that direction. The difference between wheel rim sizes is the distance you have to move your hands to get to 16 degrees of rotation on the wheel. Larger rim, larger motion to get the same angle on the wheel. e.g. to get 1 degree of tire angle on the ground, you need to turn the wheel 16 degrees, or .04 of a full turn.
On a 13" wheel (40" circumference), that's 1.77" movement by your hands.
On a 19" wheel (60" circumference), that's 2.66' movement by your hands.
Mathematically, you're turning both wheels the same amount - sixteen degrees off center to get 1 degree on the tire - but you have to displace your hands from 'center' further with a larger steering wheel radius - which, given a constant average speed of motion for the driver's hands means that the larger wheel takes 50% longer for the same input - or the other way around...the driver with the 19" wheel rim needs to move their hands *faster* to accomplish the same input in the same time as the driver with the 13" wheel rim, and 19" guy's arms are going to get tired. :D
There's a whole can of worms to investigate there... 😹
It's all tradeoffs, because at a certain point, there's a *minimum* amount you can reasonably turn the wheel while just driving straight, and if the wheel rim is TOO small, then you can't hold a straight line...
This is really hard to wrap your head around because it literally “feels” quicker. If you ever get a chance to drive something with a 10” wheel like a lot of older formula cars it’s amazing how your brain translates the outcome to “quicker steering”.
I have found that with my driving style, sometimes 14:1 and 16:1 makes me drive completely differently (leaning on RR instead of RF) eventhough it is just preference like you mentioned. I would recommend everyone to just try out what works best for them on any given track and to experiment with it, great vid!
Yeah I know what you're talking about! Sometimes the car needs a really quick jolt to get on the RR that it's hard to get on 16:1
Thank you for this. Running 16:1 basically helps with muscle memory and accuracy, but some people would have you believe it has some fundamental effect on the steering behaviour of the car that magically makes tires wear less. Every degree you're off by in your steering input running 12:1 is 33⅓% worse than running 16:1 in terms of what your front tires do.
I have the Fanatec NASCAR 16" wheel hanging off my Clubsport hub and typically run 10:1 everywhere. Even 8:1 at the 3/8's tracks.
But, I'm one of those drivers who doesn't turn the wheel that much, using the brakes and throttle to rotate the car as much as the wheel.
Plus, I like the higher level of precision you get with 10:1 and 8:1 for those moments where you need lightening quick steering input to avoid other cars and gather up the car when it gets loose.
Likewise, I run either the 2.8 in/rev or the 3.15 in/rev in the Gen7.
Through my years on the service I've gone all over the place. Pro 18 I was 12:1, RTP 19 was 14:1, RTP 20 was 10:1, RTP 21 was 16:1, Coke was all over the place but my best run at Kansas was the ~3.15 pinion or whatever the quickest is. HTD300 22 was 10:1.
The moral of the story is that even with the same wheel, same settings, same driver, sometimes same year. It's worth making a few 30s changing steering ratios and seeing which you tend to do best with and rolling with that for that build or week.
Always be open to changing it and trying something new
I really have never got into open but I always figured you had to tailor the steering ratio to the build. Thanks for the insight!
Here’s what I know: the last time trucks were on Talladega I ran 16:1 and I net lost irating and sr that week. This week trucks back on Dega and so far I’m net positive +175 irating using 12:1. I find in tight pack racing the less I need to input the wheel the better for me
Wouldnt say you opinion was wrong, i think your opinion just has evolved. Ive felt this way since i started about steering ratio, but i also have tons to learn within pretty well every aspect.
Your vids still help more than ever
Thanks!
I did a video once on Steering Ratio (NR2003) and Steering Lock (isiMotor), and demonstrated the difference in both games. And last time I was on iRacing, I think I was using a wheel with a 180° rotation range, but told the game it was 270° to help me at tracks like Bristol. Though in hind sight, I should have just reduced the steering ratio. On NR2003 (I don't have an active iRacing subscription right now), I use something like 20:1 for Tereana City simply because anything tighter will instantly spin the car in the turns.
On my old wheel a couple years ago I didn’t calibrate the full rotation range so my 16:1 was more like 10:1 as well lol
I had someone explain it like this, and it helped me a lot: higher ratio means less tire wear, meaning more consistent lap times, but you sacrifice control on entry and exit... Lower ratio means better control on entry and exit, but at the cost of tire wear... He said there are exceptions to this, but in general it's a good starting point.
I’ve used 16:1 religiously since I started, but I’ve noticed in my league races while I’m usually the fastest car at the end of fuel runs, it’s never enough to get to the lead.
So I’m thinking about running 14:1 some next year, to see if I can get more early pace while still saving tires
It would be nice to see a video on the newer Next Gen Car Steering ratio’s.., The last video I seen on it left me even more confused with that particular car and settings.
Steering pinion and ratio are the same where the lowest steering pinion is the highest steering ratio I believe. Idk I barely ever run the nextgen
@@DJYeeJay The mnemonic device I use when I hop in the Cup Car is "lower is slower" the smaller the number, the more you have to turn the wheel.
The Gen7 steering can be a bit of a mystery.
But, the rack & pinion steering is even quicker than the steering box.
The lowest in/rev number in the Gen7 is about where the 10:1 starts if you ask me and only gets quicker from there.
It's inches per revolution in the Gen7. Meaning the wheels move left/right the number given, in inches of travel for one 360 revolution of the steering wheel.
I'm a bit crazy and I run pretty small steering ratios, on the truck I run 6:1 on superspeedways because I just think it's funny to drift around on the backstretch when I get bored lol...
I've ran fast trying just about everything under the sun with steering ratios, it's really all just about what you are comfortable with
My peak iRating was 6.7k. Always ran 8:1 with my G27.
Used to watch you all the time, essentially were the reason I bought iracing in the first place. Those old NIS videos were incredibly entertaining to watch.
I'm definitely a weirdo when it comes to this. I lock my G29 to 360 degrees. I think it has to do with how small the wheel is. I'm sure it is biting me in the butt somehow, but I can't do it any other way.
I map one to one in game
I set up my wheel in iRacing and map it to 1080 in game
I use Sim Comander 4.5 software and set my wheel speed per a car basis using it.
Sim Comander 4.5 has a Drive and Tune function i use and then custom tune from there.
I can’t believe you would lie to us DJ… Merry Chrysler🎅🏻
just a rd racer and i can say i like the 12:1. just feels more realistic and comfortable to me
Great Video DJ. !!!
Thank you for the footage! Loved the camera angles
Played Nascar heat for years always ran 240 ratio on the game . Tried to go with the flow and use the high ratios in iracing . Struggled and struggled. Moved it down to 900 on game . 8:1 10:1. Went from 1500k to 3600 k in a month or so … Goodluck to anyone that’s able to be fast and move the wheel that much. U gotta keep the car on edge and I can’t find that possible at high ratios , yes u save tire . But u can’t turn into the corner, then u find yourself wanting to turn more .
Can you please make a video on whay adjustment to make dueing pitstips
Is there a video on about getting loss going into and out of the corners ? Thank you to everyone.
Do you run the default 900 degree wheel map and range, or have you customized your settings (both in iRacing and the Logitech software)?
Mark Martin said that they rarely if ever go over 10 to 1 in real life. The issue I have is that "fixed" setup races are not really fixed when you can make chassis adjustments. That puts lazy people like me that dont want to spend a bunch of testing time to figure out what's best at a distinct disadvantage and thats down right unamerican. Throw in the fact that I am a boomer that grew up with the Gen 4 cars and previous and I don't stand a chance. What the hell is a click of this and a click of that, why is there an extra gear in this car, where are the rest of my lug nuts and how the hell did the high line become the fast line?
I play on a 37:1 steering ratio in NASCARs 👀
At what point does a slide result in an incident? Is a minor slide with a recovery ok or is that considered a loss of control resulting in an incident ?
You help me out alot with Arca series idk if you can do a video on the Next Gen A Fixed Cup Cars I'm terrible in them ever since they added the front mc and rear mc
Unfortunately I’m not much help with nextgen
@DJYeeJay I honestly think you would offer some really good insight regardless of the car you're talking.
I am about 7 months into iRacing and I really got to be where I am at today (1850-2000K IR) in part to your guides.
I was so lost when I started.
Thanks.
P.S. You could do a video talking about IR and the level of competition at you gain IR.
Like where I am bracketed at now I am the bottom IR in Top Split and its very competitive.
Great video and thank you.
I have been saying all of this for years and just get ignored by the crowd that thinks there is speed in the steering ratios. I was just missing the part where it is helpful for
I found tire temperature was hotter with 12-1 and cooler with 16-1 I ran 20 laps with each
To me its mostly preference
10:1 for life
WRONG. You can be more accurate on 16:1.
Take a line. Divide it into 12 pieces. Now divide it into 16 pieces. There's 4 more places for input.
In 12:1 you literally can't hit all the angles because the wheel isn't divided the sane amount of times. Your missing points of turn.
#32 Alcoholigist ftw lol
Steering ratio does not effect tire at all do some research
That's not what he said.
It helps you take advantage of the grip flick exploit that takes advantage of iracings joke of a tire model
To me its mostly preference