Beautiful results. I am currently working on a remodel of stairs and if I had seen this technique I would have tried it. Great work! I would live to see how you finished the tops of the stringers.
Interesting approach. You’ve got me thinking of using your methods when my stairs get converted from carpet to engineered hardwood. Thanks for posting.
This looks very nice. I like how you did the nose of the step. I don't like the round ones. Thank you for sharing I'm going to use your method to do my stairs. Hopefully my husband and I can do it. Thanks!!
Very good job KD I'm going to try your technique with laminate on my stairs ...well atleast one stair to see of it works....of course just a dry fit at first....thanks for posting
Excellent video. Hello, my friend, I have a similar project to this video but with 3/4 thick red oak wood. Could you tell me what type of nail and nail gun to use THANK YOU
Were your stair treads completely level and where the riser and tread meet was it 90 degrees? I have treads that are not level and angles at where the tread and riser meet that are not 90 degrees. Do you think there would be enough play in your stringer pieces to adjust and still fit with the piece from the next stair to make a good seam?
I made the mistake of buying that 14mm stuff too, never again since I have to mcGyver everything to fit that oddball size, what did you use for the side material? Plywood? So nice to see someone that cares about his work, this is a nice video, this helps me out a lot
Hello! Your stairs look awesome! We are getting ready to redo our stairs and are planning on using engineered hardwood plank flooring. I am wondering if you bought the toe kicks and treads already fabricated like that or if you used pieces of wood to make them yourself. Also, I really want a square front on my treads like yours instead of a rounded bull nose. Did the company sell you those or did you make it? Thanks!
Rob Robitaille Yes it made a huge difference in floor temp. The floor is very warm even in winter. I would recommend it for sure. I also put a 3mm felt underlay on top of the 1 step because it was on sale at a local flooring store. I figured the more R value (however minimal) the better. But yes you won't be disappointed with the 1 step so long as your concrete is relatively flat.
доброго времени суток но на мой взгляд ступени лучше ставить цельными или их склеить а то со временем будет скрип но еще зависит от качества клея и ровности поверхности а в целом не плохая работа
Luigi G I don't recall the exact angle. What I did was try to position the intersection of the 2 veneers so that as much of it would be hidden by the stair nosing.
You could have made a template sliding square that slides to the sides of the tread of riser and locks the angle in to place then transfer it to the wood you are cutting.
I hear ya. But with the resulting cuts being virtually perfect, either way will show the same line. For my project I wanted the tread to hide the riser brad nails in the bottom when installed.
Hi, I cut them all the same. The stairs were out by 1/8" max, but there is a lot of play for the veneers as the run and riser cover the gaps. I used the smallest stair for the cut dimensions, then cut them all the same. Hope this helps.
Not sure if anyone has posted this, but your foam will deteriorate in approximately 10 years and fall apart. Maybe a rubber product might have been better.
The integrity of the foam after about 12 hours is irrelevant, insignificant, and of no concern. Once the PL adhesive cures it is doing the job of holding the plates in place. Did you watch the entire video? I think perhaps not, as I mention that in the vid.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
I used this method and it worked out awesome! Thanks for putting out this video!
Wow!!! Thanks so much man, I'm a floor installer and I never thought of that foam tape , genius!
Bravo for having thoughts of all the possibilities. This is how an engineering mind tackles a job, and executes to completion. Well done.
Beautiful results. I am currently working on a remodel of stairs and if I had seen this technique I would have tried it. Great work! I would live to see how you finished the tops of the stringers.
Interesting approach. You’ve got me thinking of using your methods when my stairs get converted from carpet to engineered hardwood. Thanks for posting.
What a genius of an idea. Very helpful and well done. Easy to follow. You did a great job. Thank you for sharing.
Really well done video. Innovative approach to solving the problem with out of square stairs, risers and strings. Nice job.
This looks very nice. I like how you did the nose of the step. I don't like the round ones. Thank you for sharing I'm going to use your method to do my stairs. Hopefully my husband and I can do it. Thanks!!
Awesome idea. Would love to see how you finished off thw stringer, though.
This solves the problem I was going to encounter, thanks this will save a lot of stress!
Clever technique! Thanks for sharing
I'd really like to see the finished work with the cap on the stringers going up both sides of staircase. Cheers
Very good job KD I'm going to try your technique with laminate on my stairs ...well atleast one stair to see of it works....of course just a dry fit at first....thanks for posting
I got to excited about your video and asked my question before I finished watching! Ha! I don't know if I can do this!
Amazing idea! I was stumped on how to do this!
Thanks for sharing, and well done!!
I'm impressed! really good.
Hello.
Nice good work. Realy look gorgeous.
How you did nosal of thred?
Can you cut by 45' pice of woods and attacht them together?
This is awesome, thanks a lot!
Love how you did this. Was contemplating hiring someone but this looks great and seems simple enough. How did you cap the stringer?
Excellent video. Hello, my friend, I have a similar project to this video but with 3/4 thick red oak wood. Could you tell me what type of nail and nail gun to use THANK YOU
Clever idea.
Were your stair treads completely level and where the riser and tread meet was it 90 degrees? I have treads that are not level and angles at where the tread and riser meet that are not 90 degrees. Do you think there would be enough play in your stringer pieces to adjust and still fit with the piece from the next stair to make a good seam?
I made the mistake of buying that 14mm stuff too, never again since I have to mcGyver everything to fit that oddball size,
what did you use for the side material? Plywood?
So nice to see someone that cares about his work, this is a nice video, this helps me out a lot
Excellent video! That fit and finish is damn near perfect. How did you wait long before walking on it?
How did you put in the cap for the stringers?
I was wondering the same thing. @kookydude , do you happen to have a video/photo? Did you fit it flush with the stringer or have a slight overlap?
@@grantleibowitz5270 I milled a cap with a slight overlap, worked out really well and covers the edge perfectly.
Hello! Your stairs look awesome! We are getting ready to redo our stairs and are planning on using engineered hardwood plank flooring. I am wondering if you bought the toe kicks and treads already fabricated like that or if you used pieces of wood to make them yourself. Also, I really want a square front on my treads like yours instead of a rounded bull nose. Did the company sell you those or did you make it? Thanks!
great work
is your stringers peice are exactly all the same? It must have been hard to get the first one done :-)
Yes, it would have been nice to show how you cut, prepare the nose of the stringer
My apologies. I made some assumptions in this vid and went to the solution instead of starting from the beginning in sequence.
Smart thinking brother
Are you happy with the one step underlay?
Rob Robitaille Yes it made a huge difference in floor temp. The floor is very warm even in winter. I would recommend it for sure. I also put a 3mm felt underlay on top of the 1 step because it was on sale at a local flooring store. I figured the more R value (however minimal) the better. But yes you won't be disappointed with the 1 step so long as your concrete is relatively flat.
kookydude great! Thanks
доброго времени суток
но на мой взгляд ступени лучше ставить цельными или их склеить
а то со временем будет скрип
но еще зависит от качества клея и ровности поверхности
а в целом не плохая работа
What angle did you cut the veneer stringers on, where they meet each other?
Luigi G I don't recall the exact angle. What I did was try to position the intersection of the 2 veneers so that as much of it would be hidden by the stair nosing.
What did you use to cap the stringers in the end?
Luigi G Solid maple stained to match.
nicely done problem solved
You could have made a template sliding square that slides to the sides of the tread of riser and locks the angle in to place then transfer it to the wood you are cutting.
You put the stair tread on first then the riser.
I hear ya. But with the resulting cuts being virtually perfect, either way will show the same line. For my project I wanted the tread to hide the riser brad nails in the bottom when installed.
Tread, riser and skirt board. Not stair, toekick and stringer.
Smart!
Good thing it isn't off by a fraction of a ch
Are the veneer's cut individually, or all the same?
Hi, I cut them all the same. The stairs were out by 1/8" max, but there is a lot of play for the veneers as the run and riser cover the gaps. I used the smallest stair for the cut dimensions, then cut them all the same. Hope this helps.
Not sure if anyone has posted this, but your foam will deteriorate in approximately 10 years and fall apart. Maybe a rubber product might have been better.
The integrity of the foam after about 12 hours is irrelevant, insignificant, and of no concern. Once the PL adhesive cures it is doing the job of holding the plates in place. Did you watch the entire video? I think perhaps not, as I mention that in the vid.
The risers are suppose to be on top of the treads ....oops !
What difference does it make as long as it looks good when you’re done!
I made it yourself thanks to Woodprix plans. I think it's the best way to learn how to build it in the cheapest way.