I’m so stealing this idea! It never occurred to me to cut through the coco liner. I also live the idea of rinsing the roots of some of the plants. Thanks so much for the advice and inspiration!
Living on a farm my brain saw the title as Hayring. LOL I have a broken one sitting around waiting to be repurposed and I just got such an idea! It's very large but would make a great garden bed. Thanks for the inspiration. 🌱
Wow. This was such a helpful video for me as I am about to try planting a hayrack for the first time! Thank you. The plants hanging from the front of the hayrack really make a spectacular impact.
I have had 3 manger baskets from Kingsman for 25 or so years I always stumbled, Now I have some great ideas to make gorgeous baskets, thank-you for sharing !
Great video. I do put a spacer between the the wood railing and the hay rack moss to add air flow and keep wetness off the wood. A 1” slice if PVC on all sides works well. I also wrap wet spaghnum moss around the necks of the plants.
Love the idea of using 1” pvc! On permanent racks and containers against wood i usually do a 1x2 strip of wood. And yes i agree with sphagnum to finish it off for skilled water’ers or containers that are on irrigation. 💖
Use any plants you like! I tend to stick with proven winners as much as possible bc they preform so reliably. I also love caltunias they are so strong!
This is splendid! I like how she talks about taking the extra steps. You have to visualize the growth of the plants…look to the future based upon what her mom taught her in the past ❤
Amazing video and so helpful! Yes, I was shocked to see you wash soil off roots. What a great tip. Also so helpful to learn how to do a shade hayrack with the bird netting. I'm planning on turning an antique iron globe holder into a planter and was wondering how to keep the soil in! Thanks for great info!
Great to see Tera on this video love her designs! Still go back to look at her video from before.😄 Wish I watched this earlier, I planted some today, never thought of planting this way.
Having mossed many baskets, you don't need to soak the moss overnight. Just until it is fully saturated is plenty. Mossing with wet moss is easier than if you ring it out. Nice video.
Just watched video again so I can remember how to do the shade rack. Should I order New Zeeland Sphagnum Moss and I wasn't quite sure what kind of soil you were talking about. A name I had never heard, some type of well draining. Thanks again for great video
Loved this! I saved Tera’s previous video of the tour of her gardens, they are stunning!!! Is there a list of the plants used for the full sun hayrack? I have three on my front porch and last year was my first year planting them. It was quite underwhelming as I lack the vision for what to put together for that wow factor. 😊
😊 thank you! The pink hayrack, off the top of my head…. is 3 supertunia colors, Lobularia, balcon geranium, vinca, fan flower, pansies (we’re a cool climate so they don’t die out) creeping Jenny, dusty miller a couple zonal geraniums
@@terasgardens2254, thank you! I live just east of the Rocky Mtns in Alberta, Canada with almost identical growing conditions living so close though not quite as harsh as within the mountains. I’m so happy to have discovered you, you are an amazing artist - your gardens, planters and hayracks designs are gorgeous. 🌺 Thanks again for sharing your list. 😊
I just purchased the Kinsman hay racks. Do you have a list of flowers that you would be willing to share for planting the larger hay racks. I purchased a 50 inch and 80 inch(2 40 inch hayracks). I live in Michigan and I am excited to get this going.
Take a couple hours and get your pattern established when shopping… I’ll lay out the pattern on the cart and take a picture of it so I can remember what I was thinking 😂 but make sure you count how,any slots you have in your hayracks or take them with you for,reference. Beware it’s really easy to start spinning on combos so I recommend starting with a favorite trailing petunia color and build off of that texture and color Only plant I have had issues with are 4 pack cell sized upright petunias. They don’t play nice with the other plants, just look weird and stick out Then decide if you want height or a rounded top and plant from there. Using some of the same plants from the front row along the edges of the top will help create the ‘flow’. You really cannot go wrong.
I wish you can tell us what types of plant you have in the hayrack planter, that you have that picture full of flowers, looks like pink petunias, ivy but what else , looks beautiful
Here is a comment posted earlier by Tera about the plants in the hayrack - The pink hayrack, off the top of my head…. is 3 supertunia colors, Lobularia, balcon geranium, vinca, fan flower, pansies (we’re a cool climate so they don’t die out) creeping Jenny, dusty miller a couple zonal geraniums
If you don’t pack them so tight in the beginning, they will last longer as the roots have more room to grow and spread and use a more moisture retentive potting soil for the full sun and thirsty baskets. I like ProMix BX all purpose with mycorrhizae and biofungicide for those that need more moisture Renton and the ProMix BK High Porosity mix for those that are more susceptible to root rot and really need to dry out like geraniums ir succulents. Another potting soil, 2nd choice for me is SunGrow. Weakly, weekly always works best meaning you are fertilizing more often but a weaker amount. I find using a complete fertilizer meaning in addition to using a balanced NPK 10-10-10 but it also has secondary nutrients calcium, magnesium, and sometimes they add sulfur in depending on formula and then it will also have all the essential/trace nutrients. A balanced or close to balanced is best and easiest; however you can use different NPK formula based on the type of plant but always a complete. For example a little higher nitrogen starts more foliage growth, higher phosphorus and potassium help with root production especially in the beginning ie 10-15-15 just as an example. You will also see it for flower boosting but I use mostly to strengthen roots and potassium helps with durability in high heat like with tropical hibiscus which love potassium. In fact with those I use KELPAK or Raw potassium and use as directed in the heat. Kelpak is good to use every month to help with roots also. Once your plants are going well you can switch to the balanced you are a beginner, stick with the balanced whether it’s 10-10-10, or 5-5-5. The higher you go the more fertilizer on a water soluble and it can burn if not careful. You can use a water soluble but I like to use a slow release either Espoma TOMATO TONE, OR ROSE TONE - has everything plants need no matter whether tomatoes or florals. It has all the nutrients. But my first choice is to use Nutricote 13-11-11 formula - again it’s a complete. Another complete water soluble is First Ray’s K-LITE. And like the Espoma Tomato Tone it provides a good amount of calcium - it’s 10%, the ESPOMA is I think 8%. I do a once every month or two months plain Epson salts spray on everyone - 2 teaspoons per gallon in my tank sprayer. NOTE: Espoma is not a water soluble, it’s soil fertilizer and I put the recommended amount in the bed/native soil when digging it up and getting the bed ready and after planting, add the recommended amount on the schedule on the bag. Always read the bag. Espoma is a all natural, slow release but it’s not like Nutricote which is a slow release prill which lasts for a certain number of months - I try to get the 13-11-11 lasts 8-9 months. I use to use Osmacote but just don’t have best of luck with it. If you need quicker calcium etc - there is also CalMag. All of the mentioned, including the Physan20 I use on my approx 60 orchids. Porch screen works well too and you have it year after year. And you do the holes the same as anything else. I do the same in terms of removing the soil. I have 2 buckets, 1 for all the dirt though I shake and work most of the dirt off and then wash and then a second bucket with diluted Physan20 as per application directions - about 2 teaspoons per gallon. It’s a algaecide, bactericide, fungicide, viruscide and I find using it along with a biofungicide, the plants stay in great shape. You only spray the plants with diluted Physan 20 every 2 weeks. I like the ProMix BK (all purpose) with mycorrhizae and biofungicide and already adjusted with lime to the right pH. I like Summit company for mosquito bits approved for killing fungus gnats. Different way for the front planting. Most commercial companies make a hole in the front for each plant and you stick them in after filling the basket up to the level of the holes and then after putting in, you keep filling the rack. But they are using liners not mature blooming plants.
Thanks for the response! I’ve found this is the best method for me in the 33 yrs of creating them. I use ProMix hp w m/f for shade and the fertilome potting soil is my favorite for sun. Weekly water soluble fert. I don’t have the humidity or a season long enough to justify osmacote or a slow release. Haven’t had a need to do more than bucket rinse the roots. No need to control fungus gnats seeing I closely monitor the watering. For me less is more when planting and maintaining. I would use the same method for plugs as mature plants but all my planting are custom and on site I specialize in instant gratification for my clients. But if I was to be producing these in a greenhouse I am sure I would be using more of the items you speak of.
I've been thinking about hanging a hayrack on the side of my garden shed to spruce it up a little. I'm a little concerned about leakage though. Anybody with experience with these have problems with it dripping mud down the wall with rain or watering? That's my biggest concern. Was wondering if I should line the back part of it with plastic?
When placing against a wall I would put a spacer between the building and the hayrack for air flow. You can use a bag behind the coco liner to further help prevent water getting onto the building. Make sure it’s not going to get pounded from roof run off but otherwise I wouldn’t worry about soil on the wall, especially if it has a drip irrigation for watering.
Rinsing off the roots also reduces the risk of bringing in unfriendly organisms from the store. Especially important for folx avoiding spraying for bugs to protect the environment.
@@terasgardens2254 in NM using hay bales too plant in reduces the water needs. The high silica content of straw is hydrophobic, and repels water. Occasionally you will get some alfalfa sprouts in the hay bale garden, and if it does mold any (happens in heavy monsoon years) just move the bales into the lasagna garden in the fall to improve the long-term health of soil. Lots of books on the lasagna gardening method, and growth in popularity has meant we can no longer pick up moldy hay for free😔 Edit(fat fingers hit "reply" instead of space): using hay instead of sphagnum moss is both more affordable and more environmentally responsible, since current sphagnum moss collection is very carbon footprint heavy. As said above, straw is hydrophobic. Alfalfa will retain water better if it is well bruised first, but even in bale planting (meaning not bruised), hay will retain more water than straw.
The interviewer asked such intelligent questions and very helpful, as if she was anticipating the qs the audience were asking as they watch. ❤❤
Thanks for the kind words. Glad you enjoyed it.
I’m so stealing this idea! It never occurred to me to cut through the coco liner. I also live the idea of rinsing the roots of some of the plants. Thanks so much for the advice and inspiration!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Yeah!!! Would love to be tagged or messaged on instagram to see what you do!
Best planter video ever - and I've watched a good few! Thank you both 😊
So glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching.
❤❤❤thank you!
I didn’t know about rinsing off the roots! Game changer
Creates so much space. It's a great tip. Thanks for watching and commenting.
It truly is! And the plants don’t care at all! 😊
Living on a farm my brain saw the title as Hayring. LOL I have a broken one sitting around waiting to be repurposed and I just got such an idea! It's very large but would make a great garden bed. Thanks for the inspiration. 🌱
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and sharing.
Wow. This was such a helpful video for me as I am about to try planting a hayrack for the first time! Thank you. The plants hanging from the front of the hayrack really make a spectacular impact.
Its a fabulous technique for lush plantings!
I have had 3 manger baskets from Kingsman for 25 or so years I always stumbled, Now I have some great ideas to make gorgeous baskets, thank-you for sharing !
Wonderful! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Yay!!! Would love to see what you do this year! If your on instagram please tag me or message me a picture!
I am excited to plant my hayracks this year using these ideas. Thank you!
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting
Yay! Would love to see what you do if your on instagram tag or message me!
Great video.
I do put a spacer between the the wood railing and the hay rack moss to add air flow and keep wetness off the wood. A 1” slice if PVC on all sides works well.
I also wrap wet spaghnum moss around the necks of the plants.
Great tips! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Love the idea of using 1” pvc! On permanent racks and containers against wood i usually do a 1x2 strip of wood. And yes i agree with sphagnum to finish it off for skilled water’ers or containers that are on irrigation. 💖
Wow luv it! Gonna try this idea. Pretty soon ill be planting my annuals too!Didnt know you can wash off soil from roots to make them fit a space.😊
Great, thanks for watching! Tera has so many good tips.
Thank you! 😊 Washing the roots is a game changer for what you can do!
I wish there had been more info on the plants she was using.
Use any plants you like! I tend to stick with proven winners as much as possible bc they preform so reliably. I also love caltunias they are so strong!
Wow, thank you so much for sharing your great idea, never thought about cutting it down or washing the dirt off the roots. Awesome, awesome idea.❤❤❤
So glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you!
Patiently waiting for their purpose. Love that.
Thanks for watching and commenting
😊 ❤
Planted my hay rack using you method and it looks fabulous. Thanks for the inspiration.
Wonderful!
This is splendid! I like how she talks about taking the extra steps. You have to visualize the growth of the plants…look to the future based upon what her mom taught her in the past ❤
So nice of you. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you!! 💖
Amazing video and so helpful! Yes, I was shocked to see you wash soil off roots. What a great tip. Also so helpful to learn how to do a shade hayrack with the bird netting. I'm planning on turning an antique iron globe holder into a planter and was wondering how to keep the soil in! Thanks for great info!
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting
Yay!!! It’s amazing what you can plant with moss and netting! Tag me on instagram or message me I’d love to see what you create!!
Great idea! Thanks for showing us this method.
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks you! 💖
Great to see Tera on this video love her designs! Still go back to look at her video from before.😄 Wish I watched this earlier, I planted some today, never thought of planting this way.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and commenting
Thank you! 😊❤
Brilliant video Thank you very much...more films like that please...
Thanks, will do!
Yay! Glad you enjoyed it!
@@terasgardens2254 wish you would film yourself working in the garden.
Even if you don't talk, just sharing the footage would be helpful.
Having mossed many baskets, you don't need to soak the moss overnight. Just until it is fully saturated is plenty. Mossing with wet moss is easier than if you ring it out. Nice video.
Thanks for the tips! Thanks for watching and commenting
Perfect timing for this... I just purchased my first hayrack from KInsman yesterday. Love all these tips and ideas. Thx so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Yay!!!! Tag me on instagram or message me a picture! I would love to see what you create!
Thank you! This information was just what I was looking for.❤
So glad you found it helpful.
Sponges are good in the bottom of the container
Nice tip!
Thank you so much Tara, great info. Love your style. Say um as much as you want:)
So glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you! I was exhausted with it being august 😂 and apparently um and exactly were the ‘words’ of the day!😅
Just watched video again so I can remember how to do the shade rack. Should I order New Zeeland Sphagnum Moss and I wasn't quite sure what kind of soil you were talking about. A name I had never heard, some type of well draining. Thanks again for great video
Wow! Fabulous! Thank you!
Thank you for watching and commenting!
😊 thank you!!!
Yes great ideas I enjoyed the video thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Love this!! Great information ❤
Glad it was helpful!
My first time watching. Thanks for the awesome information.
So glad you liked it. Thanks for watching
Love this tip I’ll be trying it this year.🌺🌼🌸
Great! Good luck.
Thank you TH-cam for directing me to your video!! I love your Snip V trick. I like to rinse roots too. Fresh nutrient soil
Wonderful! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Yay team root wash!! So many benefits w doing it! Glad you found us!
Brilliant. Idea !!!
So nice of you. Thanks for sharing!
Fabulous tips! Thank you so much!
You are so welcome! Glad it was helpful.
Loved this! I saved Tera’s previous video of the tour of her gardens, they are stunning!!! Is there a list of the plants used for the full sun hayrack? I have three on my front porch and last year was my first year planting them. It was quite underwhelming as I lack the vision for what to put together for that wow factor. 😊
😊 thank you! The pink hayrack, off the top of my head…. is 3 supertunia colors, Lobularia, balcon geranium, vinca, fan flower, pansies (we’re a cool climate so they don’t die out) creeping Jenny, dusty miller a couple zonal geraniums
@@terasgardens2254, thank you! I live just east of the Rocky Mtns in Alberta, Canada with almost identical growing conditions living so close though not quite as harsh as within the mountains. I’m so happy to have discovered you, you are an amazing artist - your gardens, planters and hayracks designs are gorgeous. 🌺 Thanks again for sharing your list. 😊
Thanks Tera. People love this video!
Wonderful thanks
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching
Tara! Such a pro. Thx
Thanks for watching and commenting
Thank you! 😊
I just planted 2 front window boxes.
I may go back & cut slits in coco liners.
Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Oh did you?! You could also do every other or every 3 if you don’t want to plant each and every spot.
Such helpful information. Beautiful!
Glad you think so!
Thank you!! 💖
Great tips!
🙏
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
What are the pink flowers draping in front? Very pretty.
Pink Balcon Ivy Geranium 💖
I just purchased the Kinsman hay racks. Do you have a list of flowers that you would be willing to share for planting the larger hay racks. I purchased a 50 inch and 80 inch(2 40 inch hayracks). I live in Michigan and I am excited to get this going.
Take a couple hours and get your pattern established when shopping… I’ll lay out the pattern on the cart and take a picture of it so I can remember what I was thinking 😂 but make sure you count how,any slots you have in your hayracks or take them with you for,reference. Beware it’s really easy to start spinning on combos so I recommend starting with a favorite trailing petunia color and build off of that texture and color
Only plant I have had issues with are 4 pack cell sized upright petunias. They don’t play nice with the other plants, just look weird and stick out
Then decide if you want height or a rounded top and plant from there. Using some of the same plants from the front row along the edges of the top will help create the ‘flow’. You really cannot go wrong.
@@terasgardens2254 Very helpful. Many thanks
Thanks Tera
Good luck
I wish you can tell us what types of plant you have in the hayrack planter, that you have that picture full of flowers, looks like pink petunias, ivy but what else , looks beautiful
Here is a comment posted earlier by Tera about the plants in the hayrack - The pink hayrack, off the top of my head…. is 3 supertunia colors, Lobularia, balcon geranium, vinca, fan flower, pansies (we’re a cool climate so they don’t die out) creeping Jenny, dusty miller a couple zonal geraniums
FABULOUS!
Thanks for watching and commenting
Thank you! 💖
I am wondering if Tera's has a channel in TH-cam, that way I can see more videos of her garden
We don't think she does but she should! Thanks for watching.
If you don’t pack them so tight in the beginning, they will last longer as the roots have more room to grow and spread and use a more moisture retentive potting soil for the full sun and thirsty baskets. I like ProMix BX all purpose with mycorrhizae and biofungicide for those that need more moisture Renton and the ProMix BK High Porosity mix for those that are more susceptible to root rot and really need to dry out like geraniums ir succulents. Another potting soil, 2nd choice for me is SunGrow. Weakly, weekly always works best meaning you are fertilizing more often but a weaker amount. I find using a complete fertilizer meaning in addition to using a balanced NPK 10-10-10 but it also has secondary nutrients calcium, magnesium, and sometimes they add sulfur in depending on formula and then it will also have all the essential/trace nutrients. A balanced or close to balanced is best and easiest; however you can use different NPK formula based on the type of plant but always a complete. For example a little higher nitrogen starts more foliage growth, higher phosphorus and potassium help with root production especially in the beginning ie 10-15-15 just as an example. You will also see it for flower boosting but I use mostly to strengthen roots and potassium helps with durability in high heat like with tropical hibiscus which love potassium. In fact with those I use KELPAK or Raw potassium and use as directed in the heat. Kelpak is good to use every month to help with roots also. Once your plants are going well you can switch to the balanced you are a beginner, stick with the balanced whether it’s 10-10-10, or 5-5-5. The higher you go the more fertilizer on a water soluble and it can burn if not careful. You can use a water soluble but I like to use a slow release either Espoma TOMATO TONE, OR ROSE TONE - has everything plants need no matter whether tomatoes or florals. It has all the nutrients. But my first choice is to use Nutricote 13-11-11 formula - again it’s a complete. Another complete water soluble is First Ray’s K-LITE. And like the Espoma Tomato Tone it provides a good amount of calcium - it’s 10%, the ESPOMA is I think 8%. I do a once every month or two months plain Epson salts spray on everyone - 2 teaspoons per gallon in my tank sprayer. NOTE: Espoma is not a water soluble, it’s soil fertilizer and I put the recommended amount in the bed/native soil when digging it up and getting the bed ready and after planting, add the recommended amount on the schedule on the bag. Always read the bag. Espoma is a all natural, slow release but it’s not like Nutricote which is a slow release prill which lasts for a certain number of months - I try to get the 13-11-11 lasts 8-9 months. I use to use Osmacote but just don’t have best of luck with it. If you need quicker calcium etc - there is also CalMag. All of the mentioned, including the Physan20 I use on my approx 60 orchids.
Porch screen works well too and you have it year after year. And you do the holes the same as anything else.
I do the same in terms of removing the soil. I have 2 buckets, 1 for all the dirt though I shake and work most of the dirt off and then wash and then a second bucket with diluted Physan20 as per application directions - about 2 teaspoons per gallon. It’s a algaecide, bactericide, fungicide, viruscide and I find using it along with a biofungicide, the plants stay in great shape. You only spray the plants with diluted Physan 20 every 2 weeks. I like the ProMix BK (all purpose) with mycorrhizae and biofungicide and already adjusted with lime to the right pH. I like Summit company for mosquito bits approved for killing fungus gnats.
Different way for the front planting. Most commercial companies make a hole in the front for each plant and you stick them in after filling the basket up to the level of the holes and then after putting in, you keep filling the rack. But they are using liners not mature blooming plants.
Thanks for your tips.
Thanks for the response!
I’ve found this is the best method for me in the 33 yrs of creating them. I use ProMix hp w m/f for shade and the fertilome potting soil is my favorite for sun. Weekly water soluble fert. I don’t have the humidity or a season long enough to justify osmacote or a slow release. Haven’t had a need to do more than bucket rinse the roots. No need to control fungus gnats seeing I closely monitor the watering. For me less is more when planting and maintaining. I would use the same method for plugs as mature plants but all my planting are custom and on site I specialize in instant gratification for my clients. But if I was to be producing these in a greenhouse I am sure I would be using more of the items you speak of.
Definitely trying this!
Great! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Yay! Glad the video was helpful!
Wow
Thanks for visiting.
Give them a nice root trim They will love that!!!❤️😇😃
For sure! Thanks for watching.
Ohhhhh that scares me a bit with my short growing season 😅 but will try it on a few varieties this year! Love a good experiment!! Thank you!
Really helpful!
Glad you think so! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Yay!!! Glad to help! 💖
What type of begonia was used?
I've been thinking about hanging a hayrack on the side of my garden shed to spruce it up a little. I'm a little concerned about leakage though. Anybody with experience with these have problems with it dripping mud down the wall with rain or watering? That's my biggest concern. Was wondering if I should line the back part of it with plastic?
When placing against a wall I would put a spacer between the building and the hayrack for air flow. You can use a bag behind the coco liner to further help prevent water getting onto the building. Make sure it’s not going to get pounded from roof run off but otherwise I wouldn’t worry about soil on the wall, especially if it has a drip irrigation for watering.
Great tips Tera, thanks.
Rinsing off the roots also reduces the risk of bringing in unfriendly organisms from the store. Especially important for folx avoiding spraying for bugs to protect the environment.
Great points! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Agree! I also only use plants from the local garden center, not box stores for this reason!
where do you get your flowers from
Local garden center has the best quality.
Thanks Tera.
Because money is tight, I was wondering if I could use regular hay?
I’d be concern that hay would start to mold? Maybe? I ride horses and now I’m curious! Might have to do one with hay at the barn to test it out!
Let us know how it turns out!
@@terasgardens2254 in NM using hay bales too plant in reduces the water needs. The high silica content of straw is hydrophobic, and repels water. Occasionally you will get some alfalfa sprouts in the hay bale garden, and if it does mold any (happens in heavy monsoon years) just move the bales into the lasagna garden in the fall to improve the long-term health of soil.
Lots of books on the lasagna gardening method, and growth in popularity has meant we can no longer pick up moldy hay for free😔
Edit(fat fingers hit "reply" instead of space): using hay instead of sphagnum moss is both more affordable and more environmentally responsible, since current sphagnum moss collection is very carbon footprint heavy. As said above, straw is hydrophobic. Alfalfa will retain water better if it is well bruised first, but even in bale planting (meaning not bruised), hay will retain more water than straw.
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Thanks for watching and commenting
🙏🙏🙏🥰
Thanks for watching!
Please stop saying Um!
Noted. Thanks for watching
Um, good idea. LOL. ❤😊
@@marya.pierce5236 yeah, that Tara lady made it hard to follow with all the Ums. Terrible habit.
Um, sorry it was august, I was exhausted. 😊
Exactly!
What a great technique! Thank you for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and commenting
Thank you!