thanks for the positive reply, I use the method of making them all full floaters and use the teflon buttons , seen lots of failed circlips and upgraded snap rings also.
I was head unit repair mechanic 1971 to 1973 in the bug barn kiss,fl rebuilt 315 engines from crank to valve jobs all while sitting in my wheelchair severed spine 1n 1970 . most engines dropped exhaust valve in cylinder #3 because of the stupid placement of the oil cooler. i could do these in my sleep..fun times but my mom hated the dam grease tracks my work wheelchair left.
why is number 3 always a problem! I have spark problems, fuel problems, overheating problems, oiling problems and the list goes on... I don't know whats with that cylinder but the problems always emerge from it!!!
@@trottierindustries3769 early motors had cooling air pass through the oil cooler before going over the #3 cylinder causing it to run warmer. Distributors for these motors actually retard the timing for #3 to help control temps. Later motors put the oil cooler in a "dog house" closer to the flywheel and hot air dumped overboard, not onto the cylinder.
Can you explain what you are doing to determine the CR? i.e. I see you are determining the volume below the plastic cover plate. Does the bottom side of the plastic plate mimic the location of the top of the piston? If so, does the piston 'top' reach the end of the barrel or is there a small space from the 'top' of the barrel to the end of the barrel? Thanks for taking the time to answer these posts!
Would really like to know exactly what the assembly lube which is in the tube which you are using. i.e. especially re the installation of the distributor shaft to hold the washers in place on the little shelf inside the case prior to dropping in the distributor shaft.
Great Video, I have been checking out vw's and want to build a motor can you point me towards or do you have a video building a Turbo version. Being new at this I'm looking at some set ups here on youtube and am not really sure what I'm looking at. I see some set ups with dual carbs and others with a single Holly carb. I also see builders offering completes in the 2690.00 range which is cool but think it would be a little to build it myself . Thanks for any help and great video.
the single holly carb version is usually going to be a draw-thru turbo, which is cheaper and relatively simple to build, while the dual throttle body/dual carb versions are probably blow-thru turbos... a blow-thru efi system will give the best control over air/fuel ratio, by far, but it's a lot more complicated, see this build for example, street-driven long distances to the track, a consistent winner: www.turbobobefi.com/ for starting at ground zero, i'd say get the old turbo book from cb performance, to get a handle on what draw-thru vs. blow-thru is, there might also be some old tech here: www.oceanstreetvideo.com/vwtech/techthreads.html with determination and a big time commitment, you could build a megasquirt cpu to control the efi, or just get all the parts from somewhere like cb performance, and bolt it up... for efi you'll probably want to use a beetle fuel injection gas tank, because it has the internal bowl to keep fuel centered over the feed line. one thing is for sure, if you go turbo you'll never want to go back to a normally aspirated vw! i've been there and done that, it's a blast.
I don't understand the term TDC or 12 o'clock regarding the center oil ring? Do you mean perhaps designate 12 o'clock at pointing towards the flywheel end and then the other two scraper rings gaps to be at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock or ???
+DG Carlson in general usage, the term 12 oclock typically refers to orientation, as a clock on the wall would be hung... you do not, in other words put noon/3 on a horizontal plane, and you will not see the TDC mark on an engine in the horizontal plane either.
i think your snap ring orientation is off, and if your block is decked, you want to get as close as possible to zero deck to maintain quench and cop ratio..right?
Mark Russell snap rings that hold in the piston pins? there isn't a spec for clocking those... or probably you mean the piston rings, they should be clocked per the bentley spec, with the object being no straight path for the oil to get into the combustion chamber, through the ends of the rings... the deck height settings in the video give the same compression ratio that the engines were set with from the vw factory, using all new parts... imho, taking full advantage of zero deck height usually means that the piston and head are mirror images of each other, with quench directing the air/fuel charge into the most desirable part of the combustion chamber, at high velocity... can't get there with flat-top pistons and a vw head design, but there are custom pistons and matching vw head work, that have been rather controversial over the years... see the chassis dyno video that i posted, the robert kong ghia 'vert: th-cam.com/video/LPsfe3nX9To/w-d-xo.html
Mark Russell I believe you are correct. The end gaps of the wrist pin clips are supposed to be either pointing towards the piston or the big end of the rod. The theory is that the inertia of the piston going up and down at high revolutions can cause the pin clip to flex and possibly pop out of the groove. Good catch.
Tim Schaecher I looked at page 27 of the orange Bentley, Type 1, 1970-1979, it did not mention piston pin circlip orientation. The photo of the circlip installation shows the circlip gap in about the 4:00 position, not pointing towards the top of the piston nor towards the big end of the rod. The blue instruction sheet for Gene Berg GB203: Wrist Pin Keepers does not mention gap orientation at all, only that the sharp side of the keeper has to be away from the wrist pin. It does state that crank flex creates harmful side loads on the keepers, and that taper on reground crank journals can cause piston pin keepers to come out. For those who don't know, Gene Berg took every technical class that the Volkswagen factory offered, and back in the early '90's, his Super Street VW motors won PRA points class titles.
Whopps, I see you answered my question re location of piston relative to top of the barrel. Still would like to know entire procedure to determine CR. Or I guess I should google it....
+DG Carlson once you have measured the combustion chamber CCs and the deck height, you can plug all of the data into this calculator: www.cbperformance.com/v/enginecalc.html
That's crazy...most modern vehicles have indicators on the piston that are supposed to point to the front of the engine but VW beetles are the opposite...is this accurate or did he just install this incorrectly?
Since the air-cooled VW engine is in the back of the car, it depends on how "front" is defined; does it refer to the front of the car, or is the VW flywheel actually the front of the engine? I've always thought that a flywheel was at the back of the engine, but for whatever reason, that's where the arrows point. It's a subject of much discussion.
@@DragRacingTV ...well for example...on Mitsubishi or Honda or any 4 cylinder engines that are placed in a vehicle perpendicular to the vehicles front and rear have an indicator on the pistons and point to the front of the engine (pointing in the direction towards cylinder #1) which isn't pointing to the front of the vehicle...that's the only reason I ask.
+DG Carlson that is a good question... wiseco has an illustration showing how the expander ends are butted up against each other, and they talk about clocking the oil rails(aka scraper rings), but given that our engines have horizontal jugs, it may not be right to put a gap at the bottom... so it's v-8 stuff, but largely applicable... there probably is a gap spec for the oil rails, but if they were somehow too tight it would be difficult to file the gap on such a thin ring... i'd want to see that they were at least as wide as the rest of the rings?? www.wiseco.com/PDFs/Manuals/RingEndGap.pdf
+jagannath yadav - i don't know anything about that, so i googled it, and came up with this link: www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/cnc-machining/newbie-question-piston-skirt-programming-machining-319351/ it looks like the equipment used to do it is expensive, can't do it on a normal lathe? and it can get complicated.
thanks for the positive reply, I use the method of making them all full floaters and use the teflon buttons , seen lots of failed circlips and upgraded snap rings also.
Excellent instructions----THANKS ACE MECHANIC
Thanks for watching!
Gracias por compartir tus conocimientos saludos desde México
thanks appreciate it
When that plunger made the funny noise, I so desperately wanted to hear Mike say 'pardon me.'
brings back memories ..thanks for the vid
great information.. m new at this.. so i will be looking forward for your new videos.
great work.
I was head unit repair mechanic 1971 to 1973 in the bug barn kiss,fl rebuilt 315 engines from crank to valve jobs all while sitting in my wheelchair severed spine 1n 1970 . most engines dropped exhaust valve in cylinder #3 because of the stupid placement of the oil cooler. i could do these in my sleep..fun times but my mom hated the dam grease tracks my work wheelchair left.
grease on the wheelchair tracks is pretty hardcore vw! thanks for checking out the vids.
why is number 3 always a problem! I have spark problems, fuel problems, overheating problems, oiling problems and the list goes on... I don't know whats with that cylinder but the problems always emerge from it!!!
@@trottierindustries3769 early motors had cooling air pass through the oil cooler before going over the #3 cylinder causing it to run warmer. Distributors for these motors actually retard the timing for #3 to help control temps. Later motors put the oil cooler in a "dog house" closer to the flywheel and hot air dumped overboard, not onto the cylinder.
Can you explain what you are doing to determine the CR? i.e. I see you are determining the volume below the plastic cover plate. Does the bottom side of the plastic plate mimic the location of the top of the piston? If so, does the piston 'top' reach the end of the barrel or is there a small space from the 'top' of the barrel to the end of the barrel?
Thanks for taking the time to answer these posts!
Great video, thanks. I know this might be a silly question, but are the piston pins 22 mm in diameter and the length 80mm?
Sorry, I don't know what the dimensions are.
John Muir discusses 'lapping' the top edge of the barrels onto the mating face on the heads. Do you ever do that?
+DG Carlson i don't recall ever doing that, because afaik, it's not a factory procedure, so i can't say how well it works.
Would really like to know exactly what the assembly lube which is in the tube which you are using. i.e. especially re the installation of the distributor shaft to hold the washers in place on the little shelf inside the case prior to dropping in the distributor shaft.
Do you ever install the cylinder barrels before installing the piston pins? That way the ring installation tool does not get fouled by the studs.
+DG Carlson i think that both approaches have their advantages.
Great Video, I have been checking out vw's and want to build a motor can you point me towards or do you have a video building a Turbo version. Being new at this I'm looking at some set ups here on youtube and am not really sure what I'm looking at. I see some set ups with dual carbs and others with a single Holly carb. I also see builders offering completes in the 2690.00 range which is cool but think it would be a little to build it myself . Thanks for any help and great video.
the single holly carb version is usually going to be a draw-thru turbo, which is cheaper and relatively simple to build, while the dual throttle body/dual carb versions are probably blow-thru turbos... a blow-thru efi system will give the best control over air/fuel ratio, by far, but it's a lot more complicated, see this build for example, street-driven long distances to the track, a consistent winner: www.turbobobefi.com/
for starting at ground zero, i'd say get the old turbo book from cb performance, to get a handle on what draw-thru vs. blow-thru is, there might also be some old tech here: www.oceanstreetvideo.com/vwtech/techthreads.html
with determination and a big time commitment, you could build a megasquirt cpu to control the efi, or just get all the parts from somewhere like cb performance, and bolt it up... for efi you'll probably want to use a beetle fuel injection gas tank, because it has the internal bowl to keep fuel centered over the feed line.
one thing is for sure, if you go turbo you'll never want to go back to a normally aspirated vw! i've been there and done that, it's a blast.
I guess that will work if your piston tops are perfect flush with the top of your cylinder barrels at TDC.
Do I need to check the piston ring gap on New piston and barrel set
A lot of people don't, at least not with stock motors, but I would say that it's better to be safe than sorry.
Can you tell me , how much is the standard piston sir ???
I don't understand the term TDC or 12 o'clock regarding the center oil ring? Do you mean perhaps designate 12 o'clock at pointing towards the flywheel end and then the other two scraper rings gaps to be at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock or ???
+DG Carlson in general usage, the term 12 oclock typically refers to orientation, as a clock on the wall would be hung... you do not, in other words put noon/3 on a horizontal plane, and you will not see the TDC mark on an engine in the horizontal plane either.
i think your snap ring orientation is off, and if your block is decked, you want to get as close as possible to zero deck to maintain quench and cop ratio..right?
Mark Russell snap rings that hold in the piston pins? there isn't a spec for clocking those... or probably you mean the piston rings, they should be clocked per the bentley spec, with the object being no straight path for the oil to get into the combustion chamber, through the ends of the rings... the deck height settings in the video give the same compression ratio that the engines were set with from the vw factory, using all new parts... imho, taking full advantage of zero deck height usually means that the piston and head are mirror images of each other, with quench directing the air/fuel charge into the most desirable part of the combustion chamber, at high velocity... can't get there with flat-top pistons and a vw head design, but there are custom pistons and matching vw head work, that have been rather controversial over the years... see the chassis dyno video that i posted, the robert kong ghia 'vert: th-cam.com/video/LPsfe3nX9To/w-d-xo.html
Mark Russell I believe you are correct. The end gaps of the wrist pin clips are supposed to be either pointing towards the piston or the big end of the rod. The theory is that the inertia of the piston going up and down at high revolutions can cause the pin clip to flex and possibly pop out of the groove. Good catch.
Tim Schaecher I looked at page 27 of the orange Bentley, Type 1, 1970-1979, it did not mention piston pin circlip orientation. The photo of the circlip installation shows the circlip gap in about the 4:00 position, not pointing towards the top of the piston nor towards the big end of the rod.
The blue instruction sheet for Gene Berg GB203: Wrist Pin Keepers does not mention gap orientation at all, only that the sharp side of the keeper has to be away from the wrist pin. It does state that crank flex creates harmful side loads on the keepers, and that taper on reground crank journals can cause piston pin keepers to come out.
For those who don't know, Gene Berg took every technical class that the Volkswagen factory offered, and back in the early '90's, his Super Street VW motors won PRA points class titles.
Mark Russell i
Whopps, I see you answered my question re location of piston relative to top of the barrel. Still would like to know entire procedure to determine CR. Or I guess I should google it....
+DG Carlson once you have measured the combustion chamber CCs and the deck height, you can plug all of the data into this calculator: www.cbperformance.com/v/enginecalc.html
Do you use sealer on the bottom of the cylinders?
yes, definitely
@@DragRacingTV is their a paper gasket or a rubber gasket?
What is the sealer that can be used? And where can you get it?
No gaskets of any kind, the sealant could be high-temp RTV or similar, thx for checking out the video.
That's crazy...most modern vehicles have indicators on the piston that are supposed to point to the front of the engine but VW beetles are the opposite...is this accurate or did he just install this incorrectly?
Since the air-cooled VW engine is in the back of the car, it depends on how "front" is defined; does it refer to the front of the car, or is the VW flywheel actually the front of the engine? I've always thought that a flywheel was at the back of the engine, but for whatever reason, that's where the arrows point. It's a subject of much discussion.
@@DragRacingTV ...well for example...on Mitsubishi or Honda or any 4 cylinder engines that are placed in a vehicle perpendicular to the vehicles front and rear have an indicator on the pistons and point to the front of the engine (pointing in the direction towards cylinder #1) which isn't pointing to the front of the vehicle...that's the only reason I ask.
So the oil scraper rings do not have a gap like the compression rings?
+DG Carlson that is a good question... wiseco has an illustration showing how the expander ends are butted up against each other, and they talk about clocking the oil rails(aka scraper rings), but given that our engines have horizontal jugs, it may not be right to put a gap at the bottom... so it's v-8 stuff, but largely applicable... there probably is a gap spec for the oil rails, but if they were somehow too tight it would be difficult to file the gap on such a thin ring... i'd want to see that they were at least as wide as the rest of the rings??
www.wiseco.com/PDFs/Manuals/RingEndGap.pdf
Are all the arrow s pointing to the flywheel or the pulley?
Arrows point towards the flywheel. Here are some more relevant tips: hotvws.com/content.php?contentID=203
Please tale me about cnc programme related of piston machine
+jagannath yadav - i don't know anything about that, so i googled it, and came up with this link: www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/cnc-machining/newbie-question-piston-skirt-programming-machining-319351/
it looks like the equipment used to do it is expensive, can't do it on a normal lathe? and it can get complicated.
don't the barrels have copper washers ?
not from the vw factory, but i've seen people put washers between the barrel and the head, in some applications.
DragRacingTV you mean between the barrel and the block? At the base of the cylinder?
ok