If you have autobed leveling like bltouch on your 3d printer, instead of springs, I've been using silicone spacers. I used a dial indicator to measure the height at each corner and then use a stack of different thickness of washers and the silicone spacer to mount the heated bed. I'm sure a pair of calipers would work fine. I've not had to level the bed on my ender 3 original since I did it years and years ago. It's so repeatable, you don't even need to run bed leveling before every print either.
1:00 to adapt USA plug to fit an Australian socket, just twist the pins. It won't plug in all the way, but it'l lk ne safer than using a DeathDaptor. ... BTW - they sell AU Standards compliant adaptors, just buy at a legit store.
Knurled nuts. I had the same problem last week, but only 1150. I did sort them out, took hours. Kinda like building a puzzle. Fine tipped tweezers help.
I had mixed metric nuts and bolts with the same problem. The company I work for likes to do a monthly 'town hall' meeting (I'm remote). Got some tweezers and this was the most productive town hall I've been to.
@@noggin73 Ahh yes, "town halls"........where management tell everyone they are doing a great job (meaning management!), the targets have been met and the future is looking good.......It's the same every single time.
If those fork terminals are fake then likely thinly coated copper over brass, hence the colour tint. You'd have to cut or scratch into one and have a look. If it's more yellowish colour beneath then that would indicate brass.
Hi Scott, can you do a follow up of the direct drives for the Creality please, looking into getting one, before I get it, I’d like your feedback on how it goes. Cheers 🤙🏼🇦🇺 Joe from Australia 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Ah yes, the neatness of direct drive ... get that retraction down to 0.5mm or less! Would like to find an Ender-3 board (that fits) with a 5th driver, for the 2nd Z-screw, to do auto-tramming. I figure you already have a 2nd Z-motor hooked up, to take the extra weight of a direct drive stepper on the gantry.
@@GnuReligion I did a video addng a dual Z stepper to my e3v2, you can increase the drive current a bit on the main board if you require it, I didn’t even need to.
The extruder; "you always need a spare" 😉
If you have autobed leveling like bltouch on your 3d printer, instead of springs, I've been using silicone spacers. I used a dial indicator to measure the height at each corner and then use a stack of different thickness of washers and the silicone spacer to mount the heated bed. I'm sure a pair of calipers would work fine. I've not had to level the bed on my ender 3 original since I did it years and years ago. It's so repeatable, you don't even need to run bed leveling before every print either.
There should be a "RAM knife packaging" option during shipping. Thanks for your videos!
1:00 to adapt USA plug to fit an Australian socket, just twist the pins. It won't plug in all the way, but it'l lk ne safer than using a DeathDaptor.
...
BTW - they sell AU Standards compliant adaptors, just buy at a legit store.
They are usually called 'Travel Adaptors' for a reason :) Short term usage only when on a holiday.
Knurled nuts. I had the same problem last week, but only 1150. I did sort them out, took hours. Kinda like building a puzzle. Fine tipped tweezers help.
I had mixed metric nuts and bolts with the same problem. The company I work for likes to do a monthly 'town hall' meeting (I'm remote). Got some tweezers and this was the most productive town hall I've been to.
@@noggin73 Ahh yes, "town halls"........where management tell everyone they are doing a great job (meaning management!), the targets have been met and the future is looking good.......It's the same every single time.
If those fork terminals are fake then likely thinly coated copper over brass, hence the colour tint. You'd have to cut or scratch into one and have a look. If it's more yellowish colour beneath then that would indicate brass.
Just use magnet
Hi Scott, can you do a follow up of the direct drives for the Creality please, looking into getting one, before I get it, I’d like your feedback on how it goes. Cheers 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Joe from Australia 🤙🏼🇦🇺
I was thinking the same for my AnyCubic i3 Mega.......I'm not convinced I need it, but if it's a reasonable upgrade then I might just do it.
It's best to sort your nuts during a rainy day 😂.
Ah yes, the neatness of direct drive ... get that retraction down to 0.5mm or less! Would like to find an Ender-3 board (that fits) with a 5th driver, for the 2nd Z-screw, to do auto-tramming. I figure you already have a 2nd Z-motor hooked up, to take the extra weight of a direct drive stepper on the gantry.
@@GnuReligion I did a video addng a dual Z stepper to my e3v2, you can increase the drive current a bit on the main board if you require it, I didn’t even need to.
Pano nman po Yung tv na Lcd na smart tv Po
These aren't knurled nuts, these are molten plastic thread inserts!
Somebody didn't pay attention before typing their comment 🙄
Euro plugs are round. Ive never seen a flat euro type plug. Which part of Europe are they? I thought the flat pins were Japan?
UK?
@@jw200 No. UK 3 prong plugs are straight and a lot more thicker than those
maybe its time to build knurled separator machine?
I could 3D print a grate of some kind… hmm