Hello Hickory Hacker, just starting to get into the craft and I like your vids... Do you have any vids or tips that cover dealing with an iron hosel that has been clamped or hammered out of round by a previous owner in a hamfisted attempt to tighten the fit? Thanks!
Thanks for watching! I haven’t done any videos on that yet but I have run into a few clubs with that issue. None of them were bad enough that I wasn’t able to replace the shaft and work with it as-is. Unless it’s a club you really want to play, I’d probably just avoid trying to work with a hosel that was so bad that it required extensive reshaping.
I found an easy way to measure loft. Using a miter saw cut an angle out of a strip of 3/8 plywood. Put the club in the angle and if the shaft is vertical on the plane of the club face that cut is the loft. I checked pitch, approach and sand to club specs and got nice vertical shaft on each.
Great video and appreciated the drilling the new pin hole segment; have some club heads I would like to switch shafts on but wasn't sure how to go about redrilling the pin hole. You make it look not too intimidating a project.
Christian, I very much enjoyed your videos. In this video of putting the head back on the shaft you drill a new hole. Wouldn't this weaken the shaft? Shouldn't the original holes line up?
@@s.mcchristy9704 Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed it! When you replace a shaft, it’s pretty common that the pinholes on the head won’t match the clubhead and that’s what necessitates drilling the new hole. Those hole locations can vary from maker to maker and even differ among those made by the same maker sometimes. That said, I try to avoid instances where the new hole is right next to the old one, which will end up creating a larger hole in the same area of the cone. Usually, I’ll be able to drill the new hole at least a couple mm away from the old one and all is well. But yeah - I’ve had experiences where the shaft is noticeably weaker because of a pinhole in the cone that’s too large.
Great straight to the point tutorial! I just did this with 2 clubs and it worked well for the most part. Only issue I had was some epoxy had gotten into the hole and caused the pin to get stuck partway. I tried to pull it out, but snapped it accidently, leaving half a pin inside. I just did the same to the other side to even it out. Luckily it was a putter, so the pin wasn't too important. I learned from that and drilled the residue out of the other one and had no issues.
Great! You already figured out what I would have recommended. One thing I failed to mention in the video is that after I put the head on, I use a toothpick to clear the pin hole of epoxy before it dries. That helps keep the pin hole clear, but I still recommend drilling the hole clear anyway like you did.
@@TheHickoryHacker yeah, it seemed like the only approach forward. It was pretty worrying having a broken pin half lodged in the hole. lol. I didn't think excess epoxy could jam it up like that, but now I'll make sure to have it cleaned out real well before re-pinning in the future.
Hi! I have this OA mcgregor mid iron which has a head that will not come off no matter what i do. If i feel the head is very strong and I repin it do I absolutely have to epoxy the head? or can I use it without applying epoxy?
The short answer is yes - if the head is tight and doesn’t budge, it’ll probably be okay to hit. Keep a close eye on it, though. As you play it, ball strikes may start to loosen up whatever was keeping it tight. I’d check it after every shot and see if you can notice any movement. Another thing I’ll mention is that I’ve run into many clubs where the head won’t budge after removing the pin. What I do is first use a wooden mallet and strike it as hard as I can on the top line of the head to knock it loose. If a few blows don’t move it, I’ll take a heat gun on a low setting and warm up the hosel of the club where it meets the shaft. Be careful but to char the shaft. Heat it for a bit then try the mallet again and repeat the process until it comes off. This is the way to remove a head that’s already been reset with epoxy, which yours may be.
I’ve done it both ways and it’s definitely easier and cleaner to do it the next day. Then you can use a 1/8 drill bit to clear the dried epoxy out of the hole so the pin goes in easier.
@@TheHickoryHacker I just pinned it right when I epoxied it because the epoxy was pushing the head off of the shaft (maybe too much epoxy). It looks fine and seems sound.
@@blakebarrilleaux8073 Yeah, sounds like too much epoxy if it was pushing itself off. I coat the entire cone, but with a pretty thin layer of epoxy. The epoxy can make it surprisingly snug if it's slathered on too thick - as you found out. Like you said, though, sounds like it should be fine. The biggest reason I wait until it's dry is because I always use a drill bit to clear the pin hole before I put the new pin in, even if it's the same shaft. I've had too many instances where the pin gets stuck on a small wood shaving or piece of dried epoxy and it becomes more complicated than it needs to be. Clearing the hole with the bit fixes all of that.
Hello Hickory Hacker, just starting to get into the craft and I like your vids... Do you have any vids or tips that cover dealing with an iron hosel that has been clamped or hammered out of round by a previous owner in a hamfisted attempt to tighten the fit? Thanks!
Thanks for watching! I haven’t done any videos on that yet but I have run into a few clubs with that issue. None of them were bad enough that I wasn’t able to replace the shaft and work with it as-is. Unless it’s a club you really want to play, I’d probably just avoid trying to work with a hosel that was so bad that it required extensive reshaping.
I found an easy way to measure loft. Using a miter saw cut an angle out of a strip of 3/8 plywood. Put the club in the angle and if the shaft is vertical on the plane of the club face that cut is the loft. I checked pitch, approach and sand to club specs and got nice vertical shaft on each.
@@jimw6903 Thanks, Jim - great tip!
Great video and appreciated the drilling the new pin hole segment; have some club heads I would like to switch shafts on but wasn't sure how to go about redrilling the pin hole. You make it look not too intimidating a project.
It’s really pretty easy. Once you get a few under your belt, you’ll be very comfortable with the process.
Christian, I very much enjoyed your videos. In this video of putting the head back on the shaft you drill a new hole. Wouldn't this weaken the shaft? Shouldn't the original holes line up?
@@s.mcchristy9704 Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed it! When you replace a shaft, it’s pretty common that the pinholes on the head won’t match the clubhead and that’s what necessitates drilling the new hole. Those hole locations can vary from maker to maker and even differ among those made by the same maker sometimes. That said, I try to avoid instances where the new hole is right next to the old one, which will end up creating a larger hole in the same area of the cone. Usually, I’ll be able to drill the new hole at least a couple mm away from the old one and all is well. But yeah - I’ve had experiences where the shaft is noticeably weaker because of a pinhole in the cone that’s too large.
Great straight to the point tutorial! I just did this with 2 clubs and it worked well for the most part. Only issue I had was some epoxy had gotten into the hole and caused the pin to get stuck partway. I tried to pull it out, but snapped it accidently, leaving half a pin inside. I just did the same to the other side to even it out. Luckily it was a putter, so the pin wasn't too important. I learned from that and drilled the residue out of the other one and had no issues.
Great! You already figured out what I would have recommended. One thing I failed to mention in the video is that after I put the head on, I use a toothpick to clear the pin hole of epoxy before it dries. That helps keep the pin hole clear, but I still recommend drilling the hole clear anyway like you did.
@@TheHickoryHacker yeah, it seemed like the only approach forward. It was pretty worrying having a broken pin half lodged in the hole. lol. I didn't think excess epoxy could jam it up like that, but now I'll make sure to have it cleaned out real well before re-pinning in the future.
Hi! I have this OA mcgregor mid iron which has a head that will not come off no matter what i do. If i feel the head is very strong and I repin it do I absolutely have to epoxy the head? or can I use it without applying epoxy?
The short answer is yes - if the head is tight and doesn’t budge, it’ll probably be okay to hit. Keep a close eye on it, though. As you play it, ball strikes may start to loosen up whatever was keeping it tight. I’d check it after every shot and see if you can notice any movement.
Another thing I’ll mention is that I’ve run into many clubs where the head won’t budge after removing the pin. What I do is first use a wooden mallet and strike it as hard as I can on the top line of the head to knock it loose. If a few blows don’t move it, I’ll take a heat gun on a low setting and warm up the hosel of the club where it meets the shaft. Be careful but to char the shaft. Heat it for a bit then try the mallet again and repeat the process until it comes off. This is the way to remove a head that’s already been reset with epoxy, which yours may be.
@@TheHickoryHacker this is very helpful! thank you!
Nice
Thanks for watching!
What kind of iron were you working on.
It’s a Precision flanged niblick made by George Nicoll.
C, would you put the pin in just after epoxying the head to shaft, or wait until the next day after epoxy sets?
I’ve done it both ways and it’s definitely easier and cleaner to do it the next day. Then you can use a 1/8 drill bit to clear the dried epoxy out of the hole so the pin goes in easier.
@@TheHickoryHacker I just pinned it right when I epoxied it because the epoxy was pushing the head off of the shaft (maybe too much epoxy). It looks fine and seems sound.
@@blakebarrilleaux8073 Yeah, sounds like too much epoxy if it was pushing itself off. I coat the entire cone, but with a pretty thin layer of epoxy. The epoxy can make it surprisingly snug if it's slathered on too thick - as you found out. Like you said, though, sounds like it should be fine. The biggest reason I wait until it's dry is because I always use a drill bit to clear the pin hole before I put the new pin in, even if it's the same shaft. I've had too many instances where the pin gets stuck on a small wood shaving or piece of dried epoxy and it becomes more complicated than it needs to be. Clearing the hole with the bit fixes all of that.
nice v.accomplished