Big fan of your videos you have helped me quite a bit. I am currently on a problem and can't solve it. On a ICV2-A the ignitor is sparking and oven won't light. I can light it with a lighter and it stays lit ignitor stops everything checks out voltage wise on the wiring diagram. Replaced ignitor,pilot solenoid, and ignition module. Any help is apreciated
Eric Plummer Your problem is going to be 1 of 3 things: 1) The igniter is not positioned properly above the burner. Essentially, it is sparking in the wrong spot. Or your "spark gap" (distance between the igniter rod and the ground rod) is off. You want aprx 1/8" spark gap. Also make sure the igniter isn't sparking across the Flame Sense Rod. This will send faulty millivolt readings to the ignition module causing it to lock out. 2) Improper airflow could be extracting the gas from the burners too quickly (before they have a chance to ignite). Easy way to verify is to light the burners manually and then look to see if the flames are angled toward the front OR back of the oven. If they are, you have an airflow problem. Flames should be straight up. 3) Improper gas pressure could be either moving too fast or too slow for the spark to ignite it. Again, light the burners manually. Are they "lazy" and waving all over the place (too low)? Or do they look like a torch and lifting off the burners (too high)? I believe MFG recommends 5.0"of WC for Natural Gas and 10" of WC for Propane. Keep me posted and let me know what you find!! Good luck and thanks for watching!!
I have a bakers pride oven and when opening the door there's a cam lobe that's barely reaching the push botton of the door switch should I bend the bracket that holds the door switch closer to the push botton?
David Criste If it is the oven I am thinking of, the door switch mounts in a flanged bracket on the right side. It is ok to bend it slightly if need-be. Sometimes after years in operation, that bracket tends to bow outwards. Just be very careful and gentle, you don't want to break it. But before you do that you should check two things 1) Make sure the palnut on the front of the door switch is tight and the stem is protruding as far as it can and 2) make sure the cam lobe didn't slide. It is held in place by a set screw and, over time, it is possible that screw loosened a bit and the cam slide on the shaft. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!!
First, thank you by instructions. I have a problem with IMPERIAL ICV-1, the burner shuts down when it happen 250 grades. Which can be the problem. Please, excuse me my English, my maternal language is Spanish
Is it always when it reaches 250 degrees? Or just after a certain amount of time? If it shuts off at 250 degrees, I'd say your thermostat is bad. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Thanks. Your information is util. But, this problem was electrical coil (bobina electrica) of the electromagnectic valve; this opens circuit when very hot, so the burner turn off. The solution was the winding electrical coil of the electromagnetic valve. Thanks.
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Hi
I have problem with my bakerpride conversation oven it’s not heat up well.
It’s keep lighting and shut off when the fan is running
Big fan of your videos you have helped me quite a bit. I am currently on a problem and can't solve it. On a ICV2-A the ignitor is sparking and oven won't light. I can light it with a lighter and it stays lit ignitor stops everything checks out voltage wise on the wiring diagram. Replaced ignitor,pilot solenoid, and ignition module. Any help is apreciated
Eric Plummer Your problem is going to be 1 of 3 things:
1) The igniter is not positioned properly above the burner. Essentially, it is sparking in the wrong spot. Or your "spark gap" (distance between the igniter rod and the ground rod) is off. You want aprx 1/8" spark gap. Also make sure the igniter isn't sparking across the Flame Sense Rod. This will send faulty millivolt readings to the ignition module causing it to lock out.
2) Improper airflow could be extracting the gas from the burners too quickly (before they have a chance to ignite). Easy way to verify is to light the burners manually and then look to see if the flames are angled toward the front OR back of the oven. If they are, you have an airflow problem. Flames should be straight up.
3) Improper gas pressure could be either moving too fast or too slow for the spark to ignite it. Again, light the burners manually. Are they "lazy" and waving all over the place (too low)? Or do they look like a torch and lifting off the burners (too high)? I believe MFG recommends 5.0"of WC for Natural Gas and 10" of WC for Propane.
Keep me posted and let me know what you find!! Good luck and thanks for watching!!
Where to buy switch?
I have a bakers pride oven and when opening the door there's a cam lobe that's barely reaching the push botton of the door switch should I bend the bracket that holds the door switch closer to the push botton?
David Criste If it is the oven I am thinking of, the door switch mounts in a flanged bracket on the right side. It is ok to bend it slightly if need-be. Sometimes after years in operation, that bracket tends to bow outwards. Just be very careful and gentle, you don't want to break it. But before you do that you should check two things 1) Make sure the palnut on the front of the door switch is tight and the stem is protruding as far as it can and 2) make sure the cam lobe didn't slide. It is held in place by a set screw and, over time, it is possible that screw loosened a bit and the cam slide on the shaft. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!!
First, thank you by instructions.
I have a problem with IMPERIAL ICV-1, the burner shuts down when it happen 250 grades. Which can be the problem. Please, excuse me my English, my maternal language is Spanish
Is it always when it reaches 250 degrees? Or just after a certain amount of time? If it shuts off at 250 degrees, I'd say your thermostat is bad. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
When you are having oven problems on your Imperial. Its good to check if your door switch is properly working.
Thanks. Your information is util. But, this problem was electrical coil (bobina electrica) of the
electromagnectic valve; this opens circuit when very hot, so the burner turn off.
The solution was the winding electrical coil of the electromagnetic valve. Thanks.
Good info, thanks for sharing!