Jon Boat Trailer Set Up - 1436 Trailer Adjustment 2of2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- This video shows you how I adjust my jon boat trailer to fit my 1436 riveted jon boat. My main goal was to lower the bunks while also moving the bunks towards the rear, while moving the boat forward.
Galvanizing paint - amzn.to/3cUZEnM - for drilling holes in the trailer and protecting the exposed metal. Been using it for a couple years now and holds up great.
I wanted to get the boat lower on the trailer so I didn't need as much water to launch the boat which also means not backing the trailer and truck as much into the water either.
I also wanted to move the boat forward while moving the bunks back so that the rear of the boat was fully supported on the trailer bunks. With the way it sat, the rear of the boat was sitting off of the boat bunks and have the potential to dent (oil can).
So I took out some height adjustment hardware that was on the trailer, and lowered the trailer bunks down. I ended up using 1/2 PVC pipe (to act as a spacer) to help support (and level) the bow end of the boat bunks because they did not sit level. The PVC pipe doesn't collect water, is rustproof, is kept out of the sun, and won't damage or react with the boat, metal, or wood.
I also lowered all the rollers that were mounted on the boat trailer. I wanted all the weight to be placed on the carpeted, wooden bunks. That way the boat had as much surface area as possible to grip and would sit level. This also ensured that there were no pressure points that could dent the hull after normal use. This would also decrease the wear on the Wetlander Bottom Coating that is on the bottom of my boat.
After that, I added a rub-stop to the trailer right where the rake of the boat starts, so the boat wouldn't bottom out on the trailer when I went to launch it. I used 1.5" PVC pipe as the rub-stop. This would allow the boat to slide off the PVC pipe instead of the metal trailer support. Great. Easy. Simple.
Other than that, there are a few minor adjustments I did that you could see in the video and it took multiple hours to film and make all the proper adjustments. The boat does launch a lot easier now and I noticed I do not have to back the truck as far in as I had been doing previously.
NORMAL BOAT SETUP:
1436 lt Alumacraft Jon Boat (would not recommend - get a tracker or something else other than an Alumacraft) {135lbs}
13hp Predator Engine by Harbor Freight (serial/model number 60349 [hemi-version]) {76lbs}
Medium Swamp Runner Longtail Mud Motor Kit {57lbs}
Custom front deck and floor {~75lbs}
Battery, trolling motor, fishing supplies, cooler, anchor, etc... = {~100lbs}
My weight = 150lbs
Total weight = 600 pounds
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Thanks for the time you spend on giving your viewers information. I am a big fan of your channel and you are the reason I bought my boat and set it up like yours from your job boat casting deck build video thanks and keep making videos
I really appreciate that. Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment like that John. How do you like your boat setup?? I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine
Good ideas - I fight w/ my trailer all the time - some of your ideas will help
Thank you! Best of luck to you
Great content again, JT. Very practical information.
Thank you SluSharkND, always happy to see you in the comments 😁
Nice video bro.
Personally, I'd ditch the rollers and get 2 bunks that ran from the back to the front. This would eliminate the pvc that you want to put in the yoke of the trailer. Another thing I personally do is, remove all the carpet. The carpet holds three moisture and rots the wood quicker. Yea, you may think it would damage the bottom of the boat but it don't. Been doing this 30 years now. Oops, telling my age lol
Most parts you can find @ Academy sports. Yeah I never replaced the carpet after it get bad and replace the junk wood with Cypress
Thank you for the tips @C Price. I was wanting to get rid of the rollers. They don't really seem to help out at all. I believe the all the weight is on the bunks. Later on I probably will remove the rollers, add wood, and leave the carpet off. Thats why I didn't carpet my front deck. We've been battling that on the bass boat. Wood keeps rotting on it with all the carpet holding water. Hhaha I read that 🤐😂
I love my boat set up. I watched every video that you made and the only thing that is different on mine is the color of the casting deck and the make of the boat. I would like to use it in Florida to fish for alligator one day but I live in Pennsylvania so it may be a while. Thanks again and keep making videos of you fishing Gators and such
Hey, I really appreciate that and thank you for taking the time to let me know. What brand boat do you have??
@@JTgatoring I have a 1436 tracker
Thanks again for another good vid hope to see more after the rain gone thinking of going to a smaller boat but would rather have a shorter shaft mud motor spent this weekend getting a 1648 with a 40 hp gator tails stuck to many times
I think there are a few different rigs to have;
1) small - a sneak boat to go as light as possible but not travel too far
2) medium - a 1436 with a 13hp longtail - perfect for distance and light enough to move. Great for scouting.
3) Big Rig - a 16 to 18 foot boat to take multiple people. Would most likely be powered with surface drive so that way I have reverse if I get in a sticky situation.
At least thats my take on it right now. Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment La gator. I really do appreciate it!
Just curious, do you have gator glide on the bottom of your boat.
I adjusted my trailer like this works great and got the front end to stay down with a combo of this and cuting and re welding my winch pole ! Also while I’m think about it you think with a 14-36 on a trailer going down the road having 5 gallons of gas and a marine battery 60 pound battery in the front is okay ? My trailer in the spot you have a roller I have a 4x4 carpeted and it’s the width of the boat. It sits on the triangle ribs that run long ways. I do have a foam floor with ply on top like you did in the front a a swamp runner on that back of course. Thanks for the helpful info !
Yeah. That should be fine. The only thing I learned was to not put your battery directly on the floor of the boat and go down a rough dirt road. It dents it up something serious. So just make sure the hull is protected in regards to that, but weight-wise, I don't see an issue. As long as everything is secure and doesn't move easily, and you're safe about it, then you should be good. If you make a small mistake you'll learn from it.
@@JTgatoring 10/4 on that I have a floor like you made in just my front portion with my fuel and battery which adds up to 95 pounds plus my small anchor I think it will be okay if you had around 100 as well and nothing happens to yours! Thanks for the tips. My next thing I’m sorting is I replaced my Transom and had to take the brace out the floor to Transom out. So I replaced the rivets with stainless bolts and washers in the floor. Was easier way for me then getting a solid rivit tool. but now the screw heads sit on the trailer bunk instead of siting on the actual boat bottom. Three are clear and three sit on the edge. I think my best bet is to cut a slot with a skill saw a 1/4 depth. All I can think to do ! Just don’t want three points of contact with a motor pushing on them ! Thanks man
If you ever need to replace that axle check out a torsion style . Handles bumps and such way less jumpy then springs .
Solid idea. This little trailer & boat bounces around a lot when I get on those dirt roads to the ramps haha
I have a 1542 tracker on torison axle trailer. The roads around here are horrible and the “ ramps” if you want to call them that are pretty rough. Can’t go wrong with a long tail and a jon boat on iffy launches !
100% agree I like to keep it light and simple. Makes things easier on everything haha
What is your rationale for having transom be further up past the end of the bunks? I have been adjusting my jon boat trailer for a while and I'm trying to get it perfect.
Also -- I put my bunks on the INSIDE of those outer grooves, but I have a 1540. Looking forward to hearing from you if you see this.
You want your bunks to stick out past the transom due to the possibility of cupping the bottom of your boat. With the weight of the motor on the transom and the possibility of your boat going up and down when hitting a bump in the road while trailering, you would want the boat to come down on a solid flat surface instead of half a piece of wood where the metal could start to bend or form to the wood ie. "cupping" the bottom of your bottom. Hopefully, I was able to explain that well enough. With the spacing of your bunks, that should be fine. Whichever looks right to you. As you said it is a wider boat. Best of luck to you!
@@JTgatoring thanks so much, I took it and adjusted like you recommended after I went fishing last time. Really appreciate your thorough reply!
@@Steve_Balboni You got it. No problem. Safe boating, and tight lines!
A good set of step bits would save a lot of switching out different sizes drill bits
That is correct haha didn't even think about it when I was doing the project
@@JTgatoring I keep a set they come in really handy when I need them for sure
@@diehard1340 Without a doubt. They would have worked great in this scenario
I found the comment I was looking for.....
Hello there, nice video, thanks for the content.
Maybe slow the rate down when you're panning in the video (right at the start/intro) but otherwise, good stuff. Nice setup.
Thank you for your input Michael!! I appreciate it. I've been struggling with slow shots, especially panning. I always seem to be too quick with it.
Hey!!! You checked the comments!!
I try to read every comment that gets put on my videos even though youtube likes hiding some of them. I do my best to reply to them too
Could have pushed the front roller back and down and ben fine without the PVC pipe
Thank God I know how to adjust my own trailers because you obviously didn't plan ahead when doing yours.
Why not just flip 2x4 on edge?
It would be less surface area which would increase the chances of it denting the boat
@@JTgatoring I agree but ideally less surface area less friction. a round bunk is what we use. specifically take a sanding disc to a 4x4 and remove the edge this will allow less friction. the radius needs to become at least one inch. for a 4 foot 4x4 this should be enough to reduce significant pressure for a flat bottom that weighs 500lbs (gear included).
@@pearlrival3124 The thing is, I want surface area. I want to distribute the weight of the boat amongst the most surface area I can. I already have to worry about the boat sliding off the trailer backing down the ramp when its not strapped. The wetlander on the bottom really makes it slick. I need the friction. I want the boat to stay on the trailer haha I don't have an issue launching or getting it back on the trailer
@@JTgatoring your boat should be strapped until you get the boat in the water. im not sure why you would unstrap it before then.
@@pearlrival3124 I unstrap everything except for the front eye strap. I leave that attached until the trailer is in the water.
Dir well dont use a wrench use a socket and ratchet