👉 Both of these stations are less powerful, more expensive, and less featured than the Quick 861DW. ● We have reviewed the Quick here: th-cam.com/video/ChujyTV-HME/w-d-xo.html ● We sell the Quick here: mailin.repair/quick-861dw.html
Did YT spam my comment on pricing for this stuff? That Hakko 206 was 2000USD as configured----it is going back and we are going to try the 810 for the July course. I still think 206 could be useful for folks like me that want a micropencil, mini hot tweezers, and an iron ready to go---but 3 FM202s would be a better value. That FR 801 standalone hot air was an eBay pick for about 400USD used---but of course those are snapped up instantly now. My dual port FM203 was also about 400USD used on eBay.
Louis Rossman, have you considered using the correct nozzles? The heat is supposed to be concentrated to a particular area. Also, if had the right attachment, then you'd also have a vacuum suction component to remove your IC when its desoldered.
I was strongly considering purchasing the 206… Thanks so much for saving my time. I do want to get a desoldering station, I am considering the HAKKO FM-204 self-contained soldering station since I do not have shop air (seems simpler than setting up the control box that borrows power from my 2 port hakko and finding a shop air supply) Would you recommend the Hakko FM-204 or is there something else you would suggest that I look at?
LOL I use the fm 206 at work but the hot air is only good for pre heating the ground plane on big rf boards, and the desoldering pump doesn't suck very well either I thought the pump was worn out but I guess that's the way it is. I use a separate hot air station like you do, its the only way to go. I wish the pump had more power. Love your vids by the way. Oh man this is an old video
I have an insanely cheap, generic hot air station for general use (I mostly use it to remove USB charge ports as that's what I seek out until I get more comfortable with other components) and that thing blows the shit out of that 2029. All in all it was maybe $70, just something to get some kind of practice in with before getting something professional. I just crank it up to about 500 degrees and max airflow, pops parts off in a jiffy, and has a 3m nozzle. Airflow does seem to be lacking even at max (I've tried taking larger ICs off of junk boards and had a really difficult time with those), but for small components it works pretty well. Still, some things do seem to take longer than what I see with more expensive and proper stations. From what I read a major issue with these cheaper standalone hot air stations (NOT those shitty aoyue all in ones) is the heating elements or the blowers commonly fail after a lot of use, so eventually you'd spend more on replacing the cheap units than having a more expensive one that lasts for years. Looks like you can get an FR-801 from aliexpress for very good prices (better than the $800 I've found on Amazon for an 810). However I've never bought from aliexpress so I imagine it'd be some kind of knockoff.
Love the videos of yours Louis. VERY informative. I'm just curious as to how you got into this field. I really enjoy working on things and fixing them. Just getting into simple cell phone repair and I'm curious how I could work my way into the field that you are in. Motherboards have always intrigued me since I first saw them as a kid.
My 2 in 1 Hony 908 cost me 100 dollars and the hot air seems to be more powerful than that (melts wire quickly from 3 inches away), while the iron easily gets to 480c in 50 seconds.
well , you should have read the spec for both stations , specially the air flow. for fm-206 its only 6L/m but for fr-801 its 20 L/m and the fr-810 which is a beast its 115 L/m . it's on the website of Hakko . even weller they have 18 L/m as air flow on there all in one units so they have the same problem . my opinion JBC have excellent equipment too :) and good airflow. ;)
Thegoodpal Here's the thing. Average person has absolutely no idea how many liters per minute you need to remove an ISL6259. They know that they turn their station up and it either does, or does not remove it. I totally get that they publish specs. Also understand why these specs are completely meaningless to most users. What if this is their first station? How do they know how many liters per minute they need to remove a chip? Does the LP8550 datasheet tell you how many liters per minute you need in your hot air station to remove it? Ultimately, I do not feel it is up to spec sheets, but rather the manufacturers of high end gear to understand what end users are going to be doing with their products and produce something with a range that we can work with. I set mine to 15 for 99% of what I do. Sometimes 10 for finer jobs.
I agree with you Thegoodpal, the very first thing that you should know the spec both station before you compare. Just compare the same wattage and L/m of the hot air station that's the best thing of comparison.
Hello Luis, maybe you could try to calibrate the hot air pencil, there is an option for this, same thing with FR-802, i use both and work perfectly fine..... Of course, had to calibrate both stations with external thermocouple measuring on air output and put the difference between the external thermocouple and what station reads on offset temp option.... You can do this with all channels....
Joule G IMO, anything that is off by 250f out of the box should not cost $1800. Melt solder when I set you to 950f, or gtfo. Maybe I am being mean. I don't think I am. What am I supposed to do, calibrate this POS to 1100f before it removes a connector in under 3 minutes?
Louis Rossmann lol maybe you are right, but there is a reason for this offset option, we should take in account that in electronics one thing is theory and other is practice and I think this is a good way to correct any mismatch..... IMO
You can buy it from Aliexpress. I just did and it performs exceptionally. I can't even tell if it's a knockoff or not, except for a different PCB-Layout the components in my FR-801 are exactly the same.
i am looking to buy the fr-801 or the fr-810 but its a dramatic thing to get in the Netherlands, any advice on a good and trusthworthy supplier? i dont wanne spend my cash on a copy scam piece a ...thanks in advance
+Louis Rossmann hello. thanks for the fast reply, yes i tried but the only good quality is jbc or weller other quality brands i dont know. but you also know how exspensive jbc is.... so if any one knows a good brand
+Roy Mulder I am from the Netherlands as well. I buy my Hakko equipment from www.batterfly.com/shop (ordered several times). Be aware that the prices are listed ex VAT. They are trustworthy and an official Hakko dealer in Italy. Above EUR 400 you get free shipping! I think about ordering the FR-810 from them today.
+Roy Mulder Official Hakko dealer list can be found here: www.hakko.com/world_network.html But Batter Fly in Italy is the cheapest one I could find in Europe.
Because it takes so long to desolder the component you end up bringing so much more of the board up in temperature for a longer time you're more likely to damage something else while you're at it. Thats just garbage.
bgdwiepp Exactly. Here for the comparison I was working with physically damaged broken boards that were discarded with holes in them since I don't want to damage my good ones or customer boards, this would surely reak havoc on customer boards.
You gotta be kidding me. The hot air pencil sucks?? I know if I spent 1,600 for a rework station, it better be fucking perfect. Even if I was a millionaire it still better be perfect.
Louis Rossmann Hakko website says that FR-801 is discontinued and replaced by FR-810. Do you have opinion on it? Is it gonna do the job like FR-801 does? www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr810.html
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
👉 Both of these stations are less powerful, more expensive, and less featured than the Quick 861DW.
● We have reviewed the Quick here: th-cam.com/video/ChujyTV-HME/w-d-xo.html
● We sell the Quick here: mailin.repair/quick-861dw.html
Did YT spam my comment on pricing for this stuff? That Hakko 206 was 2000USD as configured----it is going back and we are going to try the 810 for the July course. I still think 206 could be useful for folks like me that want a micropencil, mini hot tweezers, and an iron ready to go---but 3 FM202s would be a better value.
That FR 801 standalone hot air was an eBay pick for about 400USD used---but of course those are snapped up instantly now.
My dual port FM203 was also about 400USD used on eBay.
iPad Rehab Yep, can't recommend equipment without it dropping into a black hole that I will never buy from again. :(
Louis Rossman, have you considered using the correct nozzles? The heat is supposed to be concentrated to a particular area. Also, if had the right attachment, then you'd also have a vacuum suction component to remove your IC when its desoldered.
I use the Hakko 851-2 as a smaller hot air source. I dont have any issues. Thanks for the vids. Much appreciated!!
I LOVE YOU LOUIS!!! YOU ARE THE BEST!!! Honest great suggestions, just the best, always the most integrity! Keep up the great work!
I'd love for you to do a video about your life and how you got into electronics repair
I was strongly considering purchasing the 206… Thanks so much for saving my time.
I do want to get a desoldering station, I am considering the HAKKO FM-204 self-contained soldering station since I do not have shop air (seems simpler than setting up the control box that borrows power from my 2 port hakko and finding a shop air supply)
Would you recommend the Hakko FM-204 or is there something else you would suggest that I look at?
LOL I use the fm 206 at work but the hot air is only good for pre heating the ground plane on big rf boards, and the desoldering pump doesn't suck very well either I thought the pump was worn out but I guess that's the way it is. I use a separate hot air station like you do, its the only way to go. I wish the pump had more power. Love your vids by the way. Oh man this is an old video
I have an insanely cheap, generic hot air station for general use (I mostly use it to remove USB charge ports as that's what I seek out until I get more comfortable with other components) and that thing blows the shit out of that 2029. All in all it was maybe $70, just something to get some kind of practice in with before getting something professional. I just crank it up to about 500 degrees and max airflow, pops parts off in a jiffy, and has a 3m nozzle. Airflow does seem to be lacking even at max (I've tried taking larger ICs off of junk boards and had a really difficult time with those), but for small components it works pretty well. Still, some things do seem to take longer than what I see with more expensive and proper stations.
From what I read a major issue with these cheaper standalone hot air stations (NOT those shitty aoyue all in ones) is the heating elements or the blowers commonly fail after a lot of use, so eventually you'd spend more on replacing the cheap units than having a more expensive one that lasts for years.
Looks like you can get an FR-801 from aliexpress for very good prices (better than the $800 I've found on Amazon for an 810). However I've never bought from aliexpress so I imagine it'd be some kind of knockoff.
+spartan456 micro hot air pencils are the nice way of saying useless cheap piece of shit
Thank you very much. You saved my day:) Thank you Luis!
Thanks for saving me some hassle!
Hey Louis have you ever looked into jbc tools?
Love the videos of yours Louis. VERY informative. I'm just curious as to how you got into this field. I really enjoy working on things and fixing them. Just getting into simple cell phone repair and I'm curious how I could work my way into the field that you are in. Motherboards have always intrigued me since I first saw them as a kid.
Ariokanikan Total, total accident.
My 2 in 1 Hony 908 cost me 100 dollars and the hot air seems to be more powerful than that (melts wire quickly from 3 inches away), while the iron easily gets to 480c in 50 seconds.
well , you should have read the spec for both stations , specially the air flow.
for fm-206 its only 6L/m but for fr-801 its 20 L/m and the fr-810 which is a beast its 115 L/m . it's on the website of Hakko . even weller they have 18 L/m as air flow on there all in one units so they have the same problem . my opinion JBC have excellent equipment too :) and good airflow. ;)
Thegoodpal Here's the thing.
Average person has absolutely no idea how many liters per minute you need to remove an ISL6259.
They know that they turn their station up and it either does, or does not remove it.
I totally get that they publish specs. Also understand why these specs are completely meaningless to most users.
What if this is their first station? How do they know how many liters per minute they need to remove a chip? Does the LP8550 datasheet tell you how many liters per minute you need in your hot air station to remove it?
Ultimately, I do not feel it is up to spec sheets, but rather the manufacturers of high end gear to understand what end users are going to be doing with their products and produce something with a range that we can work with.
I set mine to 15 for 99% of what I do. Sometimes 10 for finer jobs.
I agree with you Thegoodpal, the very first thing that you should know the spec both station before you compare. Just compare the same wattage and L/m of the hot air station that's the best thing of comparison.
Metcal hct2-120 is very good in my experience, even small enough to remove backlight filters on iphones,
Louis, I notice from many of your videos and from looking for dead boards online, alot of them have holes in them. Do you know why that is?
Chinese people sell them like that, dead boards are shipped with holes no CPU
I still run an old school Hakko 850D LOL
Hello Luis, maybe you could try to calibrate the hot air pencil, there is an option for this, same thing with FR-802, i use both and work perfectly fine..... Of course, had to calibrate both stations with external thermocouple measuring on air output and put the difference between the external thermocouple and what station reads on offset temp option....
You can do this with all channels....
Joule G IMO, anything that is off by 250f out of the box should not cost $1800. Melt solder when I set you to 950f, or gtfo.
Maybe I am being mean. I don't think I am. What am I supposed to do, calibrate this POS to 1100f before it removes a connector in under 3 minutes?
Louis Rossmann lol maybe you are right, but there is a reason for this offset option, we should take in account that in electronics one thing is theory and other is practice and I think this is a good way to correct any mismatch..... IMO
What's the blue mat you're using under the board?
Great Video! Opinion on FR-810??
Sean Hicks I haven't tried it yet.
Louis FR-801 is discontinued do you recommend a different model
You can buy it from Aliexpress. I just did and it performs exceptionally. I can't even tell if it's a knockoff or not, except for a different PCB-Layout the components in my FR-801 are exactly the same.
You just saved me a lot of money and grief
i am looking to buy the fr-801 or the fr-810 but its a dramatic thing to get in the Netherlands, any advice on a good and trusthworthy supplier? i dont wanne spend my cash on a copy scam piece a ...thanks in advance
+Roy Mulder Not sure. You might want to look for a device that is designed by a company headquartered in your geographic area so you can save money.
+Louis Rossmann hello. thanks for the fast reply, yes i tried but the only good quality is jbc or weller other quality brands i dont know. but you also know how exspensive jbc is.... so if any one knows a good brand
+Roy Mulder I am from the Netherlands as well. I buy my Hakko equipment from www.batterfly.com/shop (ordered several times). Be aware that the prices are listed ex VAT. They are trustworthy and an official Hakko dealer in Italy. Above EUR 400 you get free shipping! I think about ordering the FR-810 from them today.
+Roy Mulder Official Hakko dealer list can be found here: www.hakko.com/world_network.html But Batter Fly in Italy is the cheapest one I could find in Europe.
overlay in the video? did your video got ripped of by someone?
Video 17 At least five times a month. For more interesting reviews or class content I don't feel like risking it.
Because it takes so long to desolder the component you end up bringing so much more of the board up in temperature for a longer time you're more likely to damage something else while you're at it. Thats just garbage.
bgdwiepp Exactly. Here for the comparison I was working with physically damaged broken boards that were discarded with holes in them since I don't want to damage my good ones or customer boards, this would surely reak havoc on customer boards.
You gotta be kidding me. The hot air pencil sucks?? I know if I spent 1,600 for a rework station, it better be fucking perfect. Even if I was a millionaire it still better be perfect.
it's junk
Louis Rossmann Hakko website says that FR-801 is discontinued and replaced by FR-810. Do you have opinion on it? Is it gonna do the job like FR-801 does?
www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr810.html
Krzysztof Mizerski I would guess yes, but I have not used it. Again same TV/VCR combo concept going here.
Louis Rossmann The FR-810 is excellent. you can take chips off in seconds
Good to know. We might just get those and dump the 206.
Thank you guys for the info, it's very helpful!