@@greendogggggg good news for us, Paul's paid the premium because it's so custom however to copy this build its much cheaper now they have experience. The owner was very accommodating in having people come Inspect Paul's van due for completion mid to end of Jan. $60k has gone into this build roughly
after doing a ton of research on spray foam before i decided to do a flash and batt in my own home, it is not recommended to expose the spray foam to extreme heat condition as it accelerates the off-gassing process. The metal on top of the van on a sunny hot summer day can reach 140F destabilizing the binding agent's int he spray foam.
This is how I insulated my ICF home attic. Last year's 12 month total for my HVAC system was only $168 or just $14 per month to heat and cool for a 2000 sq ft home.
Looks good. My only comment would be to research the type of foam used, there are some commercial products that are commonly used in car intereriors and beam pillars insulations/soundproofing, such as Ellastolan 3595/100 (approved by most car manufacturers), so you ensure is something tested according to auto tests and specs (volatile emmisions, stability under heat or moisture, etc.)
@@theronlangford8786 no it doesnt, all vehicles Include truck bodies are dipped in a zinc based solution before painting. The moisture collects in the sound deading foam and rots the beds out
Wow! A lot of haters commenting today. Stay positive people... I thought to myself while watching this that it is awesome that you can pay someone to do this professionally while you document. Who doesn't want a totally pimped out van to sleep in over long trips! Good for you bro!
Well as I said in the first video, I am paying for the parts inside and these guys are providing the labour in exchange for being featured in my videos. It's been a pretty great partnership and they are already getting lots of business - so it works! Thanks for the support :)
Good choice! We're going to use closed cell spray foam to insulate our upcoming cargo trailer conversion. Besides the reasons you mentioned it adds structural rigidity which is important with trailers that have thinner sheet metal than vans have. Before applying the foam with a DIY kit I'll be applying Lizardskin sound deadening & ceramic insulation coatings to add an extra thermal transfer barrier. The ceiling, walls, & floor will get a layer of cork underlayment installed over the foam before we place the decorative wall coverings.
Spray foam is standard practice on steel boats. As they typically take several months to fit out out- gassing is not a problem. It provides acoustic and thermal insulation and prevents condensation forming on the cold steel.
I did this in some areas of my build but put down plastic before spraying, that way it can be easily removed later. The areas I did this was the side rails in the bed of my truck. I wanted to be able to remove it when I change my living quarter design. This was a crude but fast way for me to insulate my truck bed including my canopy, with being able to do fast. I do plan on doing a low profile camper build that can be slide in and out of my truck. I plan on using aluminum frame work with insulation inside the frame. Low profile pop up campers base models can easily run 10k-12k, I hope to spend less than half that. For me this will be done just by me and more than likely out doors, and all with hand tools.
Not sure why they put the water inlets directly above the power input but I would recommend hooking up the water first, make sure everything is dry and then hook up the power. Otherwise it's amazing. You should start arranging van competitions so you can win them all.
Yes they are testing the water system :). Also weird how there are no other places in a van where there’s water next to electrics......wait a second.......😂
so here for the spray foam . quick Q - The battening here runs along the metal ribs of the van. Isn't it better to avoid having the frame contact the outer shell as far as possible? Running them across the other way for example so they just touch at points? Or does it make little noticeable difference in the end? - especially considering windows and doors are pretty hard to deal with in that regard? cheers
I done mine from scratch After 1 week of breaking what i wanted for extreme weather. And keeping in mind all the cookie cutter van builds that install insulation as you would a house...REALLY not the same I done 2.5' of spray foam (BASF) But first i done a coat of rubberized spray This helps with thermal expansion And conduction greater than the same amount in foam. My other tip is Add a line to each sized of the van with mini PVC tubing Run your wires inside Make sure you have extra room for more wires (*if needed) This way if you want to remove Or add wiring You do not have to dig up the foam to get access Don't feel shy to add in over the spray foam extra batt Or board foam to make flush to the install of the walls Less air travel in there the better. If you have rear windows I done my own thumb stakingly painful sewing on Elevator moving blankets / Plastic cardboard And ring holes to fill in and over the windows And a Blanket across the rear of the front seat Closing the space off for better heat retention My end goal was to save the amount needed to "Keep" the rate of heat from a constant use
Yeah, that's kind of what I'm thinking - especially after Luke had the ladder ripped off his van. I'm beginning to favor removable insulation and wiring conduits.
I had the same thought for spray foam in a home, it's going to be twice the labor for repair work. Since the contractor has to dig out electrical wire or plumbing pipes.
looking through the comments it seems there is a whole host of issues with this that were not thought of. Idk this guy, his video just showed up in my recommendations, but this seems like a poor choice. One that stops repairs from easily being done, or done at all since the foam releases toxic dust (possibly anyway) so no panel beater/welder would go near it, the chassis as a whole becomes something that cannot be recycled, the foam is a fire hazard as well as being a sponge for water (from showers/hot beverages/cooking steam). Someone else was saying this stuff squeaks after a while which I can believe since the chassis would have some give on the road, probably dislodging some foam and making it rub. Maybe some of these problems aren't legit, but enough of them are to make it not viable imo. All that said, its not my van so I don't care that much tbh
noting that the inlet requires a breaker board to be installed Also note: the power inlet should be a min of 6-7.5 foot off the ground to reduce flooding issues that might occur in a camp ground.. also note before you spray foamed you should added a back plate and ran the service wiring for both ac and dc electronics.. and fuse panels for both.. I also don't think it is a a wise idea to mix different voltages with different wattage. in most countries the world over 1-2 20 amp 220/240 VAC depending on the the air con you run as this is typically separated from the house power At the end of the day do what you like however base electrical wiring whether it be home or rv bound is based on 15 amps at 220-240 vac.. Where you start cooking in the realm off electrical fires when you start upping the gauge lowering the voltage and upping the amperages
the foam and the metal are the exact same temperature. Different materials transfer energy faster than others and metal is one that transfers a lot which makes it feel cold.
I hope you used extra sealant or something. Ive seen a few foamed vehicles including a couple professionally built ones and they all rust quickly. If you dont face sub zero temps, maybe ok but condensation will always fine a way.
@@tylermount9544 That is a good technique but doesn't negate the fact that moisture or humidity always finds a way to migrate from humid areas to less humid areas just like temperature always flows from cold to hot. That's why true vapor barriers and ventilation are so important. Closed cell foam is not a suitable vapor barrier see here to know why. blog.polytechinc.com/open-vs-closed-cell-foam
I have over 20 yrs of experience building rv's in the rv capital of the world in Elkhart, Indiana. I have also built schoolies and vans for about 20 yrs. I tell everyone this stuff is the worst you can use. There is a reason it's not used In rv's therefore I didn't use. In the rv industry we have done a lot of testing with foam and if failed to meet government safety standards so no go. Stick with open face insulation and put down a liquid vapor barrier before the insulation and install a Maxxair fan that way you can help control the key air flow weather it needs air pulled in or sucked out.
@@rolliebca actually closed cell foam combined with a fibreglass shell is a perfect vapor barrier (it's even good on its own if applied thick enough btw), so the best way would be if the guy in this video used fiberglass to seal in the spray foam and lastly a dense coat of gelcoat and clearcoat. For vapor to reach through all that would take pressurizing the chamber with steam at 150psi and leaving it like that for 30 years. Btw that's basically how modern ships/yachts are made
I'd be worried about the level of toxic fumes that foam will give off in a confined space when its curing and later when the hot sun is on the panel work of the van. I wonder how long it would take for all the volatile chemicals to evaporate off fully, days, months, years ?
@@SlyDz420 Western Australia has lost 50 million animals in wild fires and a month before the Amazon is dying and some prick is worrying about Paul the punters fucking van posioning people. Fuck off .
Gus Shug You're a ignorant twat. Mentioning that he might be slowly poisoning himself in his van is a important thing to mention. It doesn't detract from other important things yah small minded fuck.
I dont get it... So you use spray foam so you can get "into everything", but then I can clearly see that the thickness of the foam isnt to the max on many places? What is the use of that?
I was going to say the same thing. Spend a few more nickels and fill the cavity, as long as you are there. 1/2" of spray foam is not much of an R value.
Glenn Carraway yep, I’m an architect, I get it, and r7 isn’t much. He could fit another inch or two. R14-21 is better, especially the space is just sitting there waiting to be used.
Pretty sure they left some areas without complete foam covering (i.e. specific cavities, like on the back doors for instance) so that you can still have access to replace things like brake lights, etc. when they inevitably go bad in the future and you're pulled over at a random Auto Zone - god knows where - trying to fix it while out on an adventure.
Because one water port is gravity feed, one water port has to be a certain height for city water and you don’t want to plug an electrical cord high up on the side of the van creating a tripping hazard.
Doing my Ducato/Ram at the moment. This spend inspires me to kit it out in LVMH style, quilted leather and all that. Gold taps, star array ceiling. Better than the money that was wasted here.
The foam seems to only turns to powder when exposed to UV, typically from sunlight... That's not pro-foam propaganda, but something I've seen in action. It should be fine behind those panels.
There is two tanks foam sprayer kit sold at homdepot for few hundred dollars, I have used it to insulate added unit above garage, that thing is super easy to use and not messy at all, it like window gap filler in a much bigger container.
Why would they put the electrical connector directly beneath the two water connections? Just begging for a leak and short or corrosion. Loving the build otherwise.
@@PaulThePunter Your sarcasm lacks. Your comment also shows you have zero clue about what I was asking about. Don't forget to refill the bumper fluid putz.
Paul. I would have placed reflectrix bubble pack in the ceiling spaces before affixing the paneling. Summer heat gain is pushed out. Works great in the Southwest.
I’ve done a few van conversions back in the 70’s. We didn’t have all those gizmos back then. This video is awesome. I do know, though, that some of those plywood cuts are cut and Re-trimmed several times before the final fit. Lol......lots of Re-fits. These guys are pretty good.
Just had it done on mine; it’s messy! But the result is awesome, it’s really noticeable how effective an insulation it is and it’s workable after when doing battens etc
This is just an over view my friend, the story of how my van was built. I am not making a how to series. However the next one with the bike trays I think you'll like.
So, now the moisture / condensation will build in the interior.... Best to leave some room between the insulation and the outside panels of the van. With some ventilation to let the moisture evaporate. Just look how homes are built. Insulation is never against the outer layer.
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 So? What a ridiculous comment ! Imagine after five years of hard road use, and that "all weather plug" is not quite as good as it once was. Not still in the tip-top super waterproof condition than it was when new, huh ? Are you following me here?.. At that point in time, it may well be seriously compromised in it's ability to keep the water out. And when we reach this point... ...When this eventually happens... ---Do I want my water hook-up directly above the mains electrical hook-up ? Perhaps you do. Perhaps you're a fool Please reply. I'd love to here your response to this. Thanks. >
@@Bodragon if the plug stopped working just like that there must be something seriously wrong here because that would mean in the rain it wouldn't work at that would be a huge problem so i personally wouldn't have it like that but having the electrical plug underneath the water plug is not a problem
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 I never said the plug may stop "working just like that". Listen, you buy the van, And then go boil your head. Seriously, I ain't got time for this. At any time of the day or night. But in the middle of coronavirus lockdown? Are you kidding me? Oh... *_FUCK OFF !!!_* >
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 Listen you numskull. My point is, is that you should not tempt fate, or providence, or whatever it is you want to call it. Why take the risk? Rather than putting mains electrical point immediately below the the main water infill point, why not just locate it somewhere else? That's all. >
Don’t forget to add wiring /lights etc that support internet of things so you can add voice control for she who shall not be named and google, to wall sockets lights vocally, a great option to have when the bed is calling and you don’t want to get up again to turn the external or reading light off, start the heating etc
1973-1978 GMC motorhomes were all insulated in this way. Their body is made of aluminum and reinforced plastic, the same type of plastic that the Chevy Corvette used. It does deteriorate, but it takes a long time. Most that are still on the road today still have an effective amount of foam still intact.
Converting cargo vans is becoming more popular for stealth camping. Not paying camp ground fees and parking fees. Just park anywhere and it looks like a work van.
It's just so cool when you can get somebody else to do all the work via a sponsorship/advertisement deal ... keep up the excellent errrr..... getting somebody else to do it all for you.
(4:31) - Did you not treat that bare metal round edge of holes ? Did you not paint / seal it ? If not you'll more than likely have rust issues down the road. >
Wouldn't it have been smarter to put the electrical plug above the water inlets? Now if you have any leaks at the water connection. It's going to run right down to the electrical plug.
@@digginaustin I dont care what you believe. Its a fact. It has to settle properly and be done at a certain temperature to be safe. This is why its best to have a professional do it
Another great video! Super excited to see all the van builds on the mtb TH-camr channels. Still waiting for a convoy/circle the wagons episode where you all Meetup/camp out!
And its all coming together! Also if you read this Paul, i visited your discord and saw it was pretty basic. If your keen i can fully set it up with multiple voice and text channels with different roles and private channels as-well if you are interested. I dont expect any payment ill do it for fun as long as you keep making sick videos. Ill be able to make it pretty professional looking and can show you my server to get an idea of what it could look like. You would be surprised the amount of things that you can do to make it all very seamless and easy to use, its just a matter of knowing how to do it and having enough time. It no doubt has good potential for this community as it continues to grow. Thanks as always for the awesome videos : )
why use spray foam? because you like outgassing? Now to watch the video and see if I'm right. Somehow I think he's going to talk about better insulating properties and not even mention outgassing. The build is looking great
Why not clad and seal the interior? Then drill small access holes and inject the spray foam? From what I've been reading, the stuff penetrates every nook and cranny. When finished injecting, plug the holes with glued sealable rubber bungs that can be trimmed back flush. Anyway, just a thought. No experience at this so don't be too harsh in your responses! :-)
Probably should of had the external power hubs above the water hubs. Cause now from what I seen as they were being installed if there is a leak you will have a steady drip going down onto the external electric hub.
Ateka9 yeah, I’m pretty sure my wife would have something to say about me building a camper from a van only capable of legitimately housing one person.
That is definitely not the reason people use removable insulation. Who considers that their frame might fall apart in the future? It doesn't happen. It is a small disadvantage, and does stop welding but its not a deal-breaker, you could still remove bits around where welding is required.
For sure, these DIY lovable homes should be able to be lived in for the long term. A lot of people who are thinking or who have built these don't ever think about the long term of living in them you have to think what could go wrong in the next 10 to 20 years of living in it
Chris Rynn wire brush , acetone is what works for me, and besides I've never had any welding done on a vehicle body , maybe on the frame or hitch . I mean I'm 68 years old and if welding was common place on the vehicle body I would think i might had a chance to need it since I've been driving.why worry about something you may never need.
Welding on the body of a 20 year old LDV like mine is commonplace. You can say what you like about expanding foam, but I have had enough bad experiences with it that I wouldn't ever use it anywhere, especially on my precious van.
If I where you I wouldn't put the electricity plug under the water hose insert...( 4:31 ) If there is a leak and you are plugged-in many things can go wrong...
After reading everyone else's comments I just wanted to add my own obligatory "you did that wrong" comment here because I'm an expert at something i've probably only read about online and now that makes me an expert and I want everyone else to see my comment because i'm self important and want the whole internet to know it.
It is toxic crap that off gases into the air you breathe. Wait for yr joints to start aching and to feel generally unwell. People like it cus it is lazy, but is totally unremovable once sprayed.
@@liamnissanS2K There is still gas in the cells that will continue to leak out and be replaced over several years. Especially if the foam is in an enclosed space or covered over.
If the foam is not disturbed after curing it should be minimal. Add the interior trim sealing vapour transmission it will be lower. Still not sure I’d trust it.
![[กูเพิ่งซื้อมึงปิดหนี] 20 นาที ผมรีวิวเกมที่แย่ที่สุดในโลก CONCORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XhC-3q3Ii7I/mqdefault.jpg)
It's coming along nicely eh? If you want some sneak peaks follow me on instagram 👉instagram.com/paulthepunter
Paul I've already rang these guys and discussed building my own setup most likely identical to yours as we share the same passions 😎
@@greendogggggg good news for us, Paul's paid the premium because it's so custom however to copy this build its much cheaper now they have experience. The owner was very accommodating in having people come Inspect Paul's van due for completion mid to end of Jan. $60k has gone into this build roughly
@@seanec8 Sick!
@@greendogggggg What's your source Scuddy o? Because there's no evidence to suggest this works.
is the water fill the top one? do you have to lift to water up to fill?
I came to the comment section to see all the experts talk about how this is such a bad idea. I was not disappointed.
"experts" lol
I burst out in laughter instantaneously when I read this comment lol.
Yes sir
Effort worth a $1,000,000 dollars
Hot air 2 cents
Underrated comment of the year
Same lol
after doing a ton of research on spray foam before i decided to do a flash and batt in my own home, it is not recommended to expose the spray foam to extreme heat condition as it accelerates the off-gassing process. The metal on top of the van on a sunny hot summer day can reach 140F destabilizing the binding agent's int he spray foam.
Yeah, it's surprising how many people only see what they want to see. Unfortunately for them.
This is how I insulated my ICF home attic. Last year's 12 month total for my HVAC system was only $168 or just $14 per month to heat and cool for a 2000 sq ft home.
That's interesting, so you can take these foam sprays upstairs?
What climate Clay Ritchie?
@@doctorjoey3 probably San Francisco
maybe in San Francisco area
Looks good. My only comment would be to research the type of foam used, there are some commercial products that are commonly used in car intereriors and beam pillars insulations/soundproofing, such as Ellastolan 3595/100 (approved by most car manufacturers), so you ensure is something tested according to auto tests and specs (volatile emmisions, stability under heat or moisture, etc.)
watch what foam they use, it can easily hold moisture against the metal rotting it out. Hence why truck wheel wells rot out in 5 years now.
They use recycled metal it starts rusting at the factory.
@@theronlangford8786 no it doesnt, all vehicles Include truck bodies are dipped in a zinc based solution before painting. The moisture collects in the sound deading foam and rots the beds out
Theron Langford All steel starts rusting at the factory.
@@ShaunHensley yeah even stainless and zinc coated ones.. So leads build cases from cast iron at least rust won't eat through entirely
Is it closed cell foam or open cell? He said it forms a vapor barrier, so it's probably closed cell. There's no way moisture is getting behind that
Wow! A lot of haters commenting today. Stay positive people... I thought to myself while watching this that it is awesome that you can pay someone to do this professionally while you document. Who doesn't want a totally pimped out van to sleep in over long trips! Good for you bro!
Well as I said in the first video, I am paying for the parts inside and these guys are providing the labour in exchange for being featured in my videos. It's been a pretty great partnership and they are already getting lots of business - so it works!
Thanks for the support :)
@@PaulThePunter sounds like a great deal if you ask me...
Good choice! We're going to use closed cell spray foam to insulate our upcoming cargo trailer conversion. Besides the reasons you mentioned it adds structural rigidity which is important with trailers that have thinner sheet metal than vans have. Before applying the foam with a DIY kit I'll be applying Lizardskin sound deadening & ceramic insulation coatings to add an extra thermal transfer barrier. The ceiling, walls, & floor will get a layer of cork underlayment installed over the foam before we place the decorative wall coverings.
Spray foam is standard practice on steel boats. As they typically take several months to fit out out- gassing is not a problem. It provides acoustic and thermal insulation and prevents condensation forming on the cold steel.
I did this in some areas of my build but put down plastic before spraying, that way it can be easily removed later. The areas I did this was the side rails in the bed of my truck. I wanted to be able to remove it when I change my living quarter design. This was a crude but fast way for me to insulate my truck bed including my canopy, with being able to do fast.
I do plan on doing a low profile camper build that can be slide in and out of my truck. I plan on using aluminum frame work with insulation inside the frame. Low profile pop up campers base models can easily run 10k-12k, I hope to spend less than half that. For me this will be done just by me and more than likely out doors, and all with hand tools.
Electric plug beneath the water inlets? Don’t use them at the same time Paul.
Yes that outdoor designed plug will be impossible to use in the vicinity of water...
Loving the build...how are you fitting the biking in!🦘🦘🦘
Not sure why they put the water inlets directly above the power input but I would recommend hooking up the water first, make sure everything is dry and then hook up the power. Otherwise it's amazing. You should start arranging van competitions so you can win them all.
Yes they are testing the water system :). Also weird how there are no other places in a van where there’s water next to electrics......wait a second.......😂
so here for the spray foam . quick Q - The battening here runs along the metal ribs of the van. Isn't it better to avoid having the frame contact the outer shell as far as possible? Running them across the other way for example so they just touch at points? Or does it make little noticeable difference in the end? - especially considering windows and doors are pretty hard to deal with in that regard? cheers
I done mine from scratch After 1 week of breaking what i wanted for extreme weather. And keeping in mind all the cookie cutter van builds that install insulation as you would a house...REALLY not the same I done 2.5' of spray foam (BASF) But first i done a coat of rubberized spray This helps with thermal expansion And conduction greater than the same amount in foam. My other tip is Add a line to each sized of the van with mini PVC tubing Run your wires inside Make sure you have extra room for more wires (*if needed) This way if you want to remove Or add wiring You do not have to dig up the foam to get access
Don't feel shy to add in over the spray foam extra batt Or board foam to make flush to the install of the walls Less air travel in there the better. If you have rear windows I done my own thumb stakingly painful sewing on Elevator moving blankets / Plastic cardboard And ring holes to fill in and over the windows And a Blanket across the rear of the front seat Closing the space off for better heat retention My end goal was to save the amount needed to "Keep" the rate of heat from a constant use
Good luck trying to remove any future panel dents
Yeah, that's kind of what I'm thinking - especially after Luke had the ladder ripped off his van. I'm beginning to favor removable insulation and wiring conduits.
I had the same thought for spray foam in a home, it's going to be twice the labor for repair work. Since the contractor has to dig out electrical wire or plumbing pipes.
looking through the comments it seems there is a whole host of issues with this that were not thought of. Idk this guy, his video just showed up in my recommendations, but this seems like a poor choice. One that stops repairs from easily being done, or done at all since the foam releases toxic dust (possibly anyway) so no panel beater/welder would go near it, the chassis as a whole becomes something that cannot be recycled, the foam is a fire hazard as well as being a sponge for water (from showers/hot beverages/cooking steam). Someone else was saying this stuff squeaks after a while which I can believe since the chassis would have some give on the road, probably dislodging some foam and making it rub. Maybe some of these problems aren't legit, but enough of them are to make it not viable imo.
All that said, its not my van so I don't care that much tbh
He'll be able to pull them out with the rust holes that the foam creates.
@@CrusadesOClock closed cells does not absorb moisture
noting that the inlet requires a breaker board to be installed
Also note: the power inlet should be a min of 6-7.5 foot off the ground to reduce flooding issues that might occur in a camp ground..
also note before you spray foamed you should added a back plate and ran the service wiring for both ac and dc electronics.. and fuse panels for both..
I also don't think it is a a wise idea to mix different voltages with different wattage.
in most countries the world over 1-2 20 amp 220/240 VAC depending on the the air con you run as this is typically separated from the house power
At the end of the day do what you like however base electrical wiring whether it be home or rv bound is based on 15 amps at 220-240 vac..
Where you start cooking in the realm off electrical fires when you start upping the gauge lowering the voltage and upping the amperages
Am I the only one that facepalmed when they put the electric plugin below the water hookups?
No. I did the same
Me too
Not me. I only facepalmed after reading your comment.
not facepalming, but seriously questioning their expertise tbh...
I was going to write the same thing!
the foam and the metal are the exact same temperature. Different materials transfer energy faster than others and metal is one that transfers a lot which makes it feel cold.
I hope you used extra sealant or something. Ive seen a few foamed vehicles including a couple professionally built ones and they all rust quickly.
If you dont face sub zero temps, maybe ok but condensation will always fine a way.
rust city. moisture stays between the foam and the paint, then you can guess what will happen. enjoy!
That’s why they dry and ha e the van in a dry environment before they do it and until it drys
@@tylermount9544 That is a good technique but doesn't negate the fact that moisture or humidity always finds a way to migrate from humid areas to less humid areas just like temperature always flows from cold to hot. That's why true vapor barriers and ventilation are so important. Closed cell foam is not a suitable vapor barrier see here to know why. blog.polytechinc.com/open-vs-closed-cell-foam
I have over 20 yrs of experience building rv's in the rv capital of the world in Elkhart, Indiana. I have also built schoolies and vans for about 20 yrs. I tell everyone this stuff is the worst you can use. There is a reason it's not used In rv's therefore I didn't use. In the rv industry we have done a lot of testing with foam and if failed to meet government safety standards so no go. Stick with open face insulation and put down a liquid vapor barrier before the insulation and install a Maxxair fan that way you can help control the key air flow weather it needs air pulled in or sucked out.
@@rolliebca actually closed cell foam combined with a fibreglass shell is a perfect vapor barrier (it's even good on its own if applied thick enough btw), so the best way would be if the guy in this video used fiberglass to seal in the spray foam and lastly a dense coat of gelcoat and clearcoat. For vapor to reach through all that would take pressurizing the chamber with steam at 150psi and leaving it like that for 30 years. Btw that's basically how modern ships/yachts are made
I'd be worried about the level of toxic fumes that foam will give off in a confined space when its curing and later when the hot sun is on the panel work of the van. I wonder how long it would take for all the volatile chemicals to evaporate off fully, days, months, years ?
Get a grip , why dont you worry about expanding foam in your house place of work etc. Surely your tin foil hat will fight off the toxic fumes.
It's a valid concern. No need to be a child.
@@SlyDz420 Western Australia has lost 50 million animals in wild fires and a month before the Amazon is dying and some prick is worrying about Paul the punters fucking van posioning people. Fuck off .
Gus Shug You're a ignorant twat. Mentioning that he might be slowly poisoning himself in his van is a important thing to mention. It doesn't detract from other important things yah small minded fuck.
@@dons4europe stop being a dick. If you can.
I dont get it... So you use spray foam so you can get "into everything", but then I can clearly see that the thickness of the foam isnt to the max on many places? What is the use of that?
I was going to say the same thing. Spend a few more nickels and fill the cavity, as long as you are there. 1/2" of spray foam is not much of an R value.
chiane1968 if it is closed sell 1 in gives R-7 plus more than double fiberglass.
Glenn Carraway yep, I’m an architect, I get it, and r7 isn’t much. He could fit another inch or two. R14-21 is better, especially the space is just sitting there waiting to be used.
Pretty sure they left some areas without complete foam covering (i.e. specific cavities, like on the back doors for instance) so that you can still have access to replace things like brake lights, etc. when they inevitably go bad in the future and you're pulled over at a random Auto Zone - god knows where - trying to fix it while out on an adventure.
@@fredthebasspro2256 They left 1 -2 inches structurally not filled pretty much everywhere. I cant explain that with the logics you presented.
Why in the world would he put the water above the electric because if it leaks it would shorten electric out wouldn't it
Jason Fay exactly, actually illegal in most countries
Huh? Its an exterior weather power point. Its going to get more water from storms and drain than any dribbles from water inlet.
Because one water port is gravity feed, one water port has to be a certain height for city water and you don’t want to plug an electrical cord high up on the side of the van creating a tripping hazard.
for the price of a small home you can have this van!
ive seen better done way cheaper lol
@@mehgusta to be real, there's a lot of frivolous crap in this one.
@@InfernosReaper yeah because this dudes a poser
Not anywhere near Vancouver
It's supposed to be expensive if you're living in it
Doing my Ducato/Ram at the moment. This spend inspires me to kit it out in LVMH style, quilted leather and all that. Gold taps, star array ceiling. Better than the money that was wasted here.
The stuff turns to powder in the heat great for Respiratory
The foam seems to only turns to powder when exposed to UV, typically from sunlight... That's not pro-foam propaganda, but something I've seen in action.
It should be fine behind those panels.
Polyurethane?
There is two tanks foam sprayer kit sold at homdepot for few hundred dollars, I have used it to insulate added unit above garage, that thing is super easy to use and not messy at all, it like window gap filler in a much bigger container.
Van building is not a competition, but I think you're winning.
Haha nice :)
I had just watched a couple of episodes of Portlandia and this followed them in the que. It fit in well.
Why would they put the electrical connector directly beneath the two water connections? Just begging for a leak and short or corrosion. Loving the build otherwise.
Yeah wow, no idea how a car manages to survive with its engine so near to all that fluid. Holy moly!
@@PaulThePunter Your sarcasm lacks. Your comment also shows you have zero clue about what I was asking about. Don't forget to refill the bumper fluid putz.
Paul. I would have placed reflectrix bubble pack in the ceiling spaces before affixing the paneling. Summer heat gain is pushed out. Works great in the Southwest.
Does the foam cure a little more, and expand, each time it reaches a higher temperature? Formica is a lost art, but it does some things very well.
Really cool to see how pros build out a van. Very similar to yachts.
Yeah except it's not
Poo with a view is the best thing I've heard all week.
Wait till you actually try it, game changer.
@@PaulThePunter you wanna try the shower at Tumbledown lodge at the end of the Old Ghost road in New Zealand. Will beat any poo with a view
I’ve done a few van conversions back in the 70’s. We didn’t have all those gizmos back then. This video is awesome. I do know, though, that some of those plywood cuts are cut and Re-trimmed several times before the final fit. Lol......lots of Re-fits. These guys are pretty good.
I have over 15 years experience in the spray foam industry and I anticipate numerous issues.
How so?
yea, why/what ?
Does it leak poisonous fumes after a while? Will it separate and crack after a while and flake away?
I have been doing trailers with the 2lb foam for 20 yrs , you wont have any problems . To many key board Einsteins .
I’ve had over 25 years experience in the spray foam industry and this application will outlast the van by a factor of 3
Just had it done on mine; it’s messy!
But the result is awesome, it’s really noticeable how effective an insulation it is and it’s workable after when doing battens etc
Sweet
Great but i'd like if you showed a wee bit more detail of the stuff fitted and why
This is just an over view my friend, the story of how my van was built. I am not making a how to series. However the next one with the bike trays I think you'll like.
I bet the spray foam made it easier to cut holes in the van. The bit won't vibrate as bad and chowder the hole.
Are they all short or is there really head room in that van
So, now the moisture / condensation will build in the interior.... Best to leave some room between the insulation and the outside panels of the van. With some ventilation to let the moisture evaporate. Just look how homes are built. Insulation is never against the outer layer.
(4:35) - Having that electrical mains plug-in directly below the water hook-ups is a serious design flaw.
Glad that's not my van.
>
🤦♂️🤦♂️It's an all weather plug
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 So?
What a ridiculous comment !
Imagine after five years of hard road use, and that "all weather plug" is not quite as good as it once was.
Not still in the tip-top super waterproof condition than it was when new, huh ?
Are you following me here?..
At that point in time, it may well be seriously compromised in it's ability to keep the water out.
And when we reach this point...
...When this eventually happens...
---Do I want my water hook-up directly above the mains electrical hook-up ?
Perhaps you do.
Perhaps you're a fool
Please reply.
I'd love to here your response to this.
Thanks.
>
@@Bodragon if the plug stopped working just like that there must be something seriously wrong here because that would mean in the rain it wouldn't work at that would be a huge problem so i personally wouldn't have it like that but having the electrical plug underneath the water plug is not a problem
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 I never said the plug may stop "working just like that".
Listen, you buy the van,
And then go boil your head.
Seriously, I ain't got time for this.
At any time of the day or night.
But in the middle of coronavirus lockdown?
Are you kidding me?
Oh... *_FUCK OFF !!!_*
>
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 Listen you numskull.
My point is, is that you should not tempt fate, or providence, or whatever it is you want to call it.
Why take the risk?
Rather than putting mains electrical point immediately below the the main water infill point, why not just locate it somewhere else?
That's all.
>
Don’t forget to add wiring /lights etc that support internet of things so you can add voice control for she who shall not be named and google, to wall sockets lights vocally, a great option to have when the bed is calling and you don’t want to get up again to turn the external or reading light off, start the heating etc
Why did you decide to put the electrical external port below the water connections....?
1973-1978 GMC motorhomes were all insulated in this way. Their body is made of aluminum and reinforced plastic, the same type of plastic that the Chevy Corvette used. It does deteriorate, but it takes a long time. Most that are still on the road today still have an effective amount of foam still intact.
Looking great ,can't wait to see the hot tub go in!
That's episode 6
Dale Lakusta lol Hot TuB Van machine
Love the royal "we" when referring to any work being done...
(1:55) - Why is there no foam in that cavity in top of door ?
>
Looking good. That spray foam will keep you welling insulated. Its awesome stuff
It IS morning here! Good guess, Paul!
Wheyyyyyyy! 😂
Brilliant with the foam! Now those pesky screams wont leak or echo out while your driving away! Brilliant!
Hey paul, why didn't u opt for a factory built camper?
Phil MTB I concur
Converting cargo vans is becoming more popular for stealth camping. Not paying camp ground fees and parking fees. Just park anywhere and it looks like a work van.
Might need a way to defrost the drain pipe if you're ever planning to use that in freezing temps.
It's just so cool when you can get somebody else to do all the work via a sponsorship/advertisement deal ... keep up the excellent errrr..... getting somebody else to do it all for you.
Haha well I am here putting all the videos together....and building up the channel.....there is balance 🙂
(4:31) - Did you not treat that bare metal round edge of holes ?
Did you not paint / seal it ?
If not you'll more than likely have rust issues down the road.
>
He said “I get stuck with all the hard jobs”
Does nothing whole video
Has to choose 1 color
Chooses “WHITE”
HighDroFury I thought the same thing...🥴
It’s was pretty obvious sarcasm
Not well blessed with humor, are you???
Wouldn't it have been smarter to put the electrical plug above the water inlets? Now if you have any leaks at the water connection. It's going to run right down to the electrical plug.
Is this PUR foam? This can cause serious health issues. People start to tear down their houses because of health issues here in the Netherlands.
Thats because of installation errors. It needs to be done at a specific temperature, otherwise it releases toxic chemicals
definitely makes recycling the chassis unlikely.
its highly carcinogenic , also the fumes of the foam.
@@danielmarx3106 so if done at the right temp it does not release chemicals?? Yea okk I believe that
@@digginaustin I dont care what you believe. Its a fact. It has to settle properly and be done at a certain temperature to be safe. This is why its best to have a professional do it
Looking good liking the chuckle brothers sketch🤣🤣 going to be a game changer for your channel paul
Cheers my dude!
Another great video! Super excited to see all the van builds on the mtb TH-camr channels. Still waiting for a convoy/circle the wagons episode where you all Meetup/camp out!
Haha I'm sure that will happen this year.
And its all coming together! Also if you read this Paul, i visited your discord and saw it was pretty basic. If your keen i can fully set it up with multiple voice and text channels with different roles and private channels as-well if you are interested. I dont expect any payment ill do it for fun as long as you keep making sick videos. Ill be able to make it pretty professional looking and can show you my server to get an idea of what it could look like. You would be surprised the amount of things that you can do to make it all very seamless and easy to use, its just a matter of knowing how to do it and having enough time. It no doubt has good potential for this community as it continues to grow. Thanks as always for the awesome videos : )
Sure send me an email - you can find it in the about page of my channel.
why use spray foam? because you like outgassing? Now to watch the video and see if I'm right. Somehow I think he's going to talk about better insulating properties and not even mention outgassing. The build is looking great
looking great, good luck with the tankless water heater, hope you dont waste gallons waiting for it to heat the water
9:53 YOU WILL THANK ME !!!
Why not clad and seal the interior? Then drill small access holes and inject the spray foam? From what I've been reading, the stuff penetrates every nook and cranny. When finished injecting, plug the holes with glued sealable rubber bungs that can be trimmed back flush. Anyway, just a thought. No experience at this so don't be too harsh in your responses! :-)
If’s this foam ok to have in this enclosure were you are going to be in sleeping 😳 what about poison fumes with the sun heat or fumes inhaling??? 😬😳
Great build. How much weight does all this add to the van? Driving a house that gets 5 miles to the gallon sounds expensive.
Vans are designed to carry loads. Remember there are ups and downs to everything in life :)
pro mod steve shut the fuck up steve , You act like that van was designed to be driven empty ,pendejo
How can you breathe in a poison cocktail?
Spf is inert once it cures, otherwise all the people living on yachts/ships/boats would be dead by now
Probably should of had the external power hubs above the water hubs. Cause now from what I seen as they were being installed if there is a leak you will have a steady drip going down onto the external electric hub.
Looking sweet man thanks for sharing the build!!
No probs!
I would of done the Pre wiring first. Plus you now have a very flammable deathtrap.
This is cool to see the progression. Do they treat the bare metal after drilling holes for water/hydro on the exterior?
J B most likely...at least a primer
Yes, please see the other episodes for this :)
Zinc based etch primer at a guess
Peace… Salam... Shalom... Namaste and Thank You so much for All that you are doing to Heal our Mother Earth 🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ 🌷 ❤
You kinda look like James Blunt
And that's a first 😂
@@PaulThePunter I laughed to much at that. Hahaha
It because... You're beautiful
So beautiful
@@hokipokist yaaa bootifaaaaaal eeeeets truuuuu
I presume the insulation will help keep the van cool in summer as well? How good will this be do they say?
Need some poopourri for that living room toilet 🤘🏼😂🤘🏼
Haha such a dad
Spray foam is the best way to go, it has fantastic R value, sound deadening properties.
I will admit, if I were 25 years younger, and single, I would totally do this, too.
It's never too late man. My sister is turning 45 this year and just starting her van build
Ateka9 yeah, I’m pretty sure my wife would have something to say about me building a camper from a van only capable of legitimately housing one person.
This^^^like, a hundred times over
I am looking into cork sheet panels. Anti fungal, quite and you can stain it.
in the future if any welding is needed the van will catch on fire, this is why people use removable insulation
What you gonna weld on, wings?
That is definitely not the reason people use removable insulation. Who considers that their frame might fall apart in the future? It doesn't happen. It is a small disadvantage, and does stop welding but its not a deal-breaker, you could still remove bits around where welding is required.
@@jasonkimbro2030 arches, seals, like I said in the future when these areas get corroded
@@jasonkimbro2030 mostly rust repair which is something you should fully expect in a van your going to travel in a lot
For sure, these DIY lovable homes should be able to be lived in for the long term. A lot of people who are thinking or who have built these don't ever think about the long term of living in them you have to think what could go wrong in the next 10 to 20 years of living in it
To me , to you Barry!!! Yeah these guys would just not get that joke. Did you know that one off the Chuckles
is no longer with us.?
It will always happen when you're moving things! Sad loss.
great video paul and what clipless pedal would u recommend for shimano shoes
shimano pedals...........................
should i get thr ones with a barrier around it or just the clip
@@liamfield7624 just the clip
I have used crank brother mallets for years. Easiest to get in and out in my opinion.
@@PaulThePunter thanks
Don't want to be negative but would have insulated with havelock wool or even rockwool, and not used any laminate.
Cool, is that what you put in yours? Because rockwool would hold moisture and then rot the inside of your van from the inside out. NEXT!
@@PaulThePunter That sounds rather condescending. Thin skin?
Keep up with the series 👍
Will do!
Insulation of course,
Hope you never get any rust on that, because no welder will be able to fix it now.
It's essentially irreparable.
just took away like 99% of the value of the van lol
Chris Rynn it's called cutting the foam back so it doesn't catch fire , the same way you would do fiberglass insulation.
Have you ever tried getting spray foam off metal?
Chris Rynn wire brush , acetone is what works for me, and besides I've never had any welding done on a vehicle body , maybe on the frame or hitch . I mean I'm 68 years old and if welding was common place on the vehicle body I would think i might had a chance to need it since I've been driving.why worry about something you may never need.
Welding on the body of a 20 year old LDV like mine is commonplace.
You can say what you like about expanding foam, but I have had enough bad experiences with it that I wouldn't ever use it anywhere, especially on my precious van.
Cool build. Any chance you could provide a run down of the costs once finished?
It's always completely different per person. If you are truly interested in getting one, hit up VanGo!
Should have gone with “Mostly White”.
Haha nice
"slightly lighter white"?
thethePete way too much
@@TrailFeatures Was an Archer reference. His black shirts, and his slightly darker black shirts.
So many colors and you pick white. Man that killed me lol. Sweet build though and video.
If I where you I wouldn't put the electricity plug under the water hose insert...( 4:31 ) If there is a leak and you are plugged-in many things can go wrong...
I think you might need a few more screws to hold ya floor down mate, there's nowhere near enough!!!!!!
Elle oh elle
I’m glad this is a thing. I wondered if I got a van could I foam it? Obviously way better to sleep in with proper insulation in the heat and cold.
Do your research! This is definitely NOT the way to do it!
This series is amazing
Cheers!
You’re a really good youtuber and you’re amazing
Were you not worried about any deformations of the sheet metal? And potenially hazarous gases forming?
After reading everyone else's comments
I just wanted to add my own obligatory "you did that wrong" comment here because I'm an expert at something i've probably only read about online and now that makes me an expert and I want everyone else to see my comment because i'm self important and want the whole internet to know it.
You are so up your ass. But that was the idea, right? Well done!😀
Yes thank you, summed it up perfectly
nice vid, but i would have put the electrical above the water intakes, not below
Foam like that is so bad on all sorts of levels. plenty of info out there and you have ignored it all
I can think of way more pros then cons of spray foam. I used to spray the stuff and Its amazing?
It is toxic crap that off gases into the air you breathe. Wait for yr joints to start aching and to feel generally unwell. People like it cus it is lazy, but is totally unremovable once sprayed.
@@saffyone5198 Off gassing only occurs during installation and curing. Or If you're chemicals were mixed unproperly.
@@liamnissanS2K There is still gas in the cells that will continue to leak out and be replaced over several years. Especially if the foam is in an enclosed space or covered over.
saffy one wire brush , acetone , little elbow grease what works for me.
Paul having a decent kharzi marks this out as a very British van build. It looks amazing :-)
Haha that took some googling! I’d like to think that toilets are a global thing :)
Loving the van builds
Me too!
I plan on building a van next year and it would be nice if you include the prices in your videos
Yhigma costs are relative to the country and area you live, that's why you get estimates on a job before starting
Be careful with toxic off-gassing bro!
The gas is only toxic in the application process, once it goes off its fine, unless the foam machine pumps the mixture out off ratio
If the foam is not disturbed after curing it should be minimal. Add the interior trim sealing vapour transmission it will be lower.
Still not sure I’d trust it.
www.epa.gov/saferchoice/potential-chemical-exposures-spray-polyurethane-foam
I did not expect a Chuckle Brothers joke when I started watching a van build. 11:58
Great sound dampener and insulated also can’t wait to seethe progress
🤟