Hey Steve nice video,we’ve been in the insulation business 24 years . If I’ve learned anything it’s not always about the correct install of products it’s about getting by the code book and price. We see it more than we care to and no enforcement.
Steve, Great catch! This was an excellent drive-by catch. Man, it really makes the point of CONTINUITY with all those concrete thermal pathways! Hahaha, darn that building science & logic! 😉 Cheers, Eric
Steve, Great Video as usual. I am at this very juncture on my Chattanooga build. I have Superior Xi walls (R12.5) installed and I plan to have a local contractor apply a GMX exterior sealer with an R3 protection board “Thermal Drain”, but it will be about 18” below the rim board. We will finish the exposed concrete with an applied stone veneer. So, it left me concerned that the highest dT area was uninsulated on the exterior. My takeaway from your video: leave the exterior as is and add additional insulation to the interior of the basement wall. BTW - I do wonder if a water permeable fiberglass drainage board can actually be effective as insulation as it will likely be saturated from the soil contact??
I'm designing a tiny well house that's to be buried about 5 feet into the ground, which I'll build this year. With winter temperatures bottoming out at -20°F, I'll be happy if I can maintain an interior temperature above 45°F. I'm planning on ICF walls, a pitched and removable SIP roof, a steel cellar entrance door, and a custom super-insulated door between the stairs and the machine room. If you think about it, you'll realize that intimate contact between the concrete floor of the machine room and ground, is desirable. However the concrete floor of the stairwell can get super cold, so maybe I should insulate under that floor---to not suck the heat out from under the machine room floor.
Good stuff, Steve. Appreciate this perspective. Seems like a basic rectangular basement would be a lot easier to insulate on the exterior. But covering it is a real challenge; I'm struggling with this issue for an upcoming build. Might need to push all the insulation to the interior.
Spray foam over the gravel, feather up down to 1", Pour slab, frame walls 1" off foundation, then spray foam walls connecting to the sub slab for a radon, air, and moisture barrier.
Looking at the way it is being built I'm wondering if the plan is to fasten rigid insulation to the exposed concrete followed by building out the walls with an exterior insulation so the two are flush. Easy to cover with rainscreen and laped siding or stucco. With an added insulated interior wall you will have a very warm house. Where I live we have to insulate interior basement walls with 2X6 R20. I'm building now with R10 exterior and R20 interior insulation. When dealing with abutted uninsulated concrete walls the insulation can be extended two feet toward the cold to reduce conductivity, much the same as spray on damp proofing two feet past prevents the water from travelling two feet eight inches into the house
Here in VT, I drive by new homes being built and vinyl sided but the builder thinks the Tyvek is only supposed to be outside the living areas so there is none on the gable ends or the garage. That’s right. No WRB over the OSB under Vinyl on the gables or garage walls. It’s crazy.
I thought the concern for insulation on the inside, in cold climates, with high R value walls was that the temperature differential between the inside face of the exterior wall and the warm, humid conditioned air could cause condensation
I think the inconsistency would just make for some cold spots. More insulation is still better than less, as long as you have the money for it. But if you do have the money for it, maybe ICF is the way to go instead? In any case, heat rises and people often complain about cold wet basements, so I would personally rather have some exterior insulation than none.
Hi Steve. I totally understand what you are saying with respect to the issues with foundation wall exterior insulation. What do you think of this idea. I know it comes with an expense that might not be for everyone. But for someone who has to have outside insulation on the foundation. I am in Climate Zone 6 in Canada. I was thinking of doing exterior insulation on my foundation as an idea, to use the concrete on the inside for "thermal mass". All the issues you mentioned apply. My idea would be to put the exterior insulation on the pored foundation after the waterproofing and front that with designer cement blocks above the grade which would leave me an overhang for the 6" of blanket insulation on the exterior. I have not though through the details on this yet, just putting this idea out there to get some feedback.
Just curious if you have considered ICF since you mentioned thermal mass. You can get ICF blocks that have more insulation on the outside so that your thermal mass is more coupled to the interior.
The bolts look centered for a 2x4 sill plate at the outer edge. Those look like 12" thick walls, which really exaggerates what you're seeing compared to a more common 8" thick wall.
Steve- when you say you don’t advocate for insulating on exterior and prefer insulating on the interior of “the house” are you talking just basement or the entire house? 6:34
This is not intended as thermal insulation but rather as protection for the waterproofing membrane and to drain the rainwater downwards. If it was intended to be thermal insulation, it would come until "Top of Concrete"... no architect, engineer or builder would be that stupid... I hope ;-).
11:13 - RE: I don't quite understand it The point I see here is that the insulation on the outside could keep the entire wall dry and free of moisture. Moisture goes from warm to cold, and with the insulation on the outside, moisture will be sucked out and condensate in the soil. Cant have or should not need any waterproofing on the outside of the wall then. That would trap and accumulate moisture in the wall. It is a very bad thing that the basement walls are damp. It creates all kinds of other problems.
So if the contractor was all horny to keep it outside, how much $ to bring it to the top of the foundation and wrap the dog legs. In relation to cost savings in heat/cooling over the life of the house I would think it be minimal. But am just guessing.
Hey Steve nice video,we’ve been in the insulation business 24 years . If I’ve learned anything it’s not always about the correct install of products it’s about getting by the code book and price. We see it more than we care to and no enforcement.
Steve,
Great catch! This was an excellent drive-by catch.
Man, it really makes the point of CONTINUITY with all those concrete thermal pathways!
Hahaha, darn that building science & logic! 😉
Cheers, Eric
Steve, Great Video as usual. I am at this very juncture on my Chattanooga build. I have Superior Xi walls (R12.5) installed and I plan to have a local contractor apply a GMX exterior sealer with an R3 protection board “Thermal Drain”, but it will be about 18” below the rim board. We will finish the exposed concrete with an applied stone veneer. So, it left me concerned that the highest dT area was uninsulated on the exterior. My takeaway from your video: leave the exterior as is and add additional insulation to the interior of the basement wall.
BTW - I do wonder if a water permeable fiberglass drainage board can actually be effective as insulation as it will likely be saturated from the soil contact??
I was wondering the same thing about the saturation. Seems like a better approach would be a dimple board for drainage then separate insulation.
I'm designing a tiny well house that's to be buried about 5 feet into the ground, which I'll build this year. With winter temperatures bottoming out at -20°F, I'll be happy if I can maintain an interior temperature above 45°F. I'm planning on ICF walls, a pitched and removable SIP roof, a steel cellar entrance door, and a custom super-insulated door between the stairs and the machine room.
If you think about it, you'll realize that intimate contact between the concrete floor of the machine room and ground, is desirable. However the concrete floor of the stairwell can get super cold, so maybe I should insulate under that floor---to not suck the heat out from under the machine room floor.
Good stuff, Steve. Appreciate this perspective. Seems like a basic rectangular basement would be a lot easier to insulate on the exterior. But covering it is a real challenge; I'm struggling with this issue for an upcoming build. Might need to push all the insulation to the interior.
Spray foam over the gravel, feather up down to 1", Pour slab, frame walls 1" off foundation, then spray foam walls connecting to the sub slab for a radon, air, and moisture barrier.
Looking at the way it is being built I'm wondering if the plan is to fasten rigid insulation to the exposed concrete followed by building out the walls with an exterior insulation so the two are flush. Easy to cover with rainscreen and laped siding or stucco.
With an added insulated interior wall you will have a very warm house. Where I live we have to insulate interior basement walls with 2X6 R20. I'm building now with R10 exterior and R20 interior insulation.
When dealing with abutted uninsulated concrete walls the insulation can be extended two feet toward the cold to reduce conductivity, much the same as spray on damp proofing two feet past prevents the water from travelling two feet eight inches into the house
Well done. I have been on the fence about how to my new home. Thank you.
Great video. Thank for sharing
Here in VT, I drive by new homes being built and vinyl sided but the builder thinks the Tyvek is only supposed to be outside the living areas so there is none on the gable ends or the garage. That’s right. No WRB over the OSB under Vinyl on the gables or garage walls. It’s crazy.
great impromptu video. Mic sounded fine!
I thought the concern for insulation on the inside, in cold climates, with high R value walls was that the temperature differential between the inside face of the exterior wall and the warm, humid conditioned air could cause condensation
I think the inconsistency would just make for some cold spots. More insulation is still better than less, as long as you have the money for it. But if you do have the money for it, maybe ICF is the way to go instead? In any case, heat rises and people often complain about cold wet basements, so I would personally rather have some exterior insulation than none.
Theres a jobsite I like to walk past around the boston area, maybe I'll catch you there some time haha
Hi Steve. I totally understand what you are saying with respect to the issues with foundation wall exterior insulation. What do you think of this idea. I know it comes with an expense that might not be for everyone. But for someone who has to have outside insulation on the foundation. I am in Climate Zone 6 in Canada. I was thinking of doing exterior insulation on my foundation as an idea, to use the concrete on the inside for "thermal mass". All the issues you mentioned apply. My idea would be to put the exterior insulation on the pored foundation after the waterproofing and front that with designer cement blocks above the grade which would leave me an overhang for the 6" of blanket insulation on the exterior. I have not though through the details on this yet, just putting this idea out there to get some feedback.
Just curious if you have considered ICF since you mentioned thermal mass. You can get ICF blocks that have more insulation on the outside so that your thermal mass is more coupled to the interior.
Do hydronic heat floor instead with insulation inside
Steve, if water gets behind that insulation, will that not cause problems?
💯🎯
They could have just used ICF.
what is the tv screen used ? what brand ?
Are J Bolts usually put so close to the outside edge of the foundation?
The bolts look centered for a 2x4 sill plate at the outer edge. Those look like 12" thick walls, which really exaggerates what you're seeing compared to a more common 8" thick wall.
Steve- when you say you don’t advocate for insulating on exterior and prefer insulating on the interior of “the house” are you talking just basement or the entire house? 6:34
Massive thermal bridging! Smoke and mirrors or lack of understanding?
This is not intended as thermal insulation but rather as protection for the waterproofing membrane and to drain the rainwater downwards.
If it was intended to be thermal insulation, it would come until "Top of Concrete"... no architect, engineer or builder would be that stupid... I hope ;-).
11:13 - RE: I don't quite understand it
The point I see here is that the insulation on the outside could keep the entire wall dry and free of moisture. Moisture goes from warm to cold, and with the insulation on the outside, moisture will be sucked out and condensate in the soil. Cant have or should not need any waterproofing on the outside of the wall then. That would trap and accumulate moisture in the wall.
It is a very bad thing that the basement walls are damp. It creates all kinds of other problems.
So if the contractor was all horny to keep it outside, how much $ to bring it to the top of the foundation and wrap the dog legs. In relation to cost savings in heat/cooling over the life of the house I would think it be minimal. But am just guessing.