Forced air is nice to have, but you don't need it.. We cure ours on the slowest speed without forced air and it takes 1:30min through the dryer and it cures the ink just fine 👍 ours has a 4' heating element and have no issues.
I had considered using Virus inks, in particular their wet on wet CMYK inks, and they were a little discouraging. I was told I need a gas drier with a longer tunnel and an automatic at the time we still had the manual. Still might give it a try, but they're pricey.
I've been trying to find the right combination of belt speed and temp to fully cure in one pass (we also have a 4' chamber, but I think we have forced air). What temp do you get the shirts up to?
Sweet, nice video. As for curing this ink it really does not need to be in the oven for up to 3 minutes. As long as you reach temp throughout the ink layer you should be fine. I cure mine at about 300 plus degrees and send it through the standard infrared belt dryer once. But that's after they went under an air flash on press. I think the ink takes a little getting used to because it's kinda like cake frosting. But so far everyone is loving this product. There will always be those who prefer something else however ;)
Awesome feedback, Jonathan! Thanks for sharing your tips on the curing the ink. Always more than one way to skin a cat. ;) What are your thoughts on the hand after washing the ink?
I hope this video demystifies some common concerns about screen printing white water based ink on black shirts. Don't be afraid of water based screen printing!
Great video I’m 54 yrs old and I wish I had started learning about screen printing in the early 80’s and made it my career choice but it’s never too late I’m learning now and it will be my retirement hobby. Thank you and have a great day.
Great Video. Thanks. I know very little. Question: Is water based ink an issue on polyester. I am gearing up to screen print on polyester felt. Any thoughts? I like the idea of curing at the lower temps than plastisol.
"pro screen printers" absolutely kill me. They spend so much on chemicals, machines and supplies that promise high quality and flawless prints, then INTENTIONALLY include ink/screen defects in the design. wat
Stupid question from a newbie. How or what best practice is there to line the screen up after you flash so it lines correctly on the shirt? Are blends not recommended for bright colors when using wb ink?
No question is stupid in my opinion. You'll need to expose some registration marks in your screens so you can line them up. It can be any object really. Same place on each screen. Use registration color so it'll so up on all your screens in the same spot. You can do halftone blends with wb ink.
Mike, say I used this waterbase PFP as an underbase , how long do you flash in order to move on to lay plastisol on top of it? Then what’s the cure time for a mix of waterbase and plastisol print?
is it possible to cure it by letting it air dry?? if yes, i know it would take a long time but i’m just trying to be cost effective because i’m just starting out thanks, and also nice vid!
If you ever do another of these: it would be nice to see a successfully cured example where you run it twice on cotton and get the bright result. Also following up and comparing to a control after that first wash
Wow! The opacity looks really good. I am looking to do waterbased print for the first time so I will go and use your promo code to get that ink and at the same time save $5.00. 👍Thanks Matt.
I'm back. Sorry the time out ,guys, i was working my music channel out. This is me now, formerly known as Richoo. Thanks Mike and Shan for another kick ass. video. 🤘✌🤙
Great info. Would love to see print number 14, when the ink starts to dry in the screen. Then on print 17 when the screen starts to stick to the shirt.
Which mesh did you use? I am struggling a little with the ink drying fast. I just switched to water based. Covers completely different but 100% easier to clean.
Hi, there. I'm from Indonesia and I'm too late to learn screen printing, but I don't care lol. Right now, I'm using waterbased ink called "Matsui" (the character is like rubber and elastic). I don't know if you have used that kind of ink in there or not. But, based on the ink character that I use, should I go one hit (couple times) like what you did to get the vintage looks? I hope you read my comment, and have a time to reply it. Tons of thanks for the video!
Hello! I've heard of Matsui. Very popular Waterbased ink. How many times you hit it is up to you and how bright you want it. You could certainly do a print flash print to get a brighter white, or just print it and keep it more vintage looking.
Am a newbie in screen printing from Ghana. Please am mostly into water based for now. I print using the "baby oil technique"( printing on paper) Please how do you do the mesh count?? (Though I have the plastisol ink and I have tried to use to design but I wasn't able to cure it properly. I used a hand dryer for the curing.)
The higher the number, the less ink it'll allow through, and the more detail the screen will hold. You'll have to judge based off of the type of work you do. For paper, high mesh counts will work better. 305.
Hey, i am doring sublimation and HTV as a hobby and now i want to check out screen printing because i saw that first of all you can use your heat press and 2md you can use sign vinyl instead of thsoe UV coatings and third you can use water based inks. Since this is just for fun it should make fun, i saw videos about water based inks where the ink is drying within minutes and it was shown that you can not put the ink back in the original can once you used it. It water based ink really that bad or do you think you can print simple fonts with my method?
Water based is a great way to start, but you just need to back flood and the ink can dry up if you let it sit. You'll need to cure the ink just like plastisol to set it so it won't wash out. Waterbased inks take about 1.5-2 minutes in 330º heat to set and plastisol cures as soon as all the ink reaches 330º through out the film. Good luck and let us know if you have any questions!
Is it possible that you can use 1 design on 1 screen using 2 colors? the first is water based black ink and the other is white. The Ink always gets clogged so I end up removing the design and chaging it to a new one. Need Help.
I've ben using the same white from Catspit and have had success. I have had some issues with modeling and the ink drying really quick. Other than that it is a nice white and covers well. I haven't done much to test the curing as far as washing the shirts.
Forced air is nice to have, but you don't need it.. We cure ours on the slowest speed without forced air and it takes 1:30min through the dryer and it cures the ink just fine 👍 ours has a 4' heating element and have no issues.
You're absolutely right and I probably should have worded that better. Lots of people cure shirts with a non-forced air drier. Pinning this...
I had considered using Virus inks, in particular their wet on wet CMYK inks, and they were a little discouraging. I was told I need a gas drier with a longer tunnel and an automatic at the time we still had the manual. Still might give it a try, but they're pricey.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 i have heard that the washability is not that good.
@@crumptees Good to know. Not trying to make clients unhappy and waste money.
I've been trying to find the right combination of belt speed and temp to fully cure in one pass (we also have a 4' chamber, but I think we have forced air). What temp do you get the shirts up to?
Sweet, nice video. As for curing this ink it really does not need to be in the oven for up to 3 minutes. As long as you reach temp throughout the ink layer you should be fine. I cure mine at about 300 plus degrees and send it through the standard infrared belt dryer once. But that's after they went under an air flash on press. I think the ink takes a little getting used to because it's kinda like cake frosting. But so far everyone is loving this product. There will always be those who prefer something else however ;)
Awesome feedback, Jonathan! Thanks for sharing your tips on the curing the ink. Always more than one way to skin a cat. ;) What are your thoughts on the hand after washing the ink?
I hope this video demystifies some common concerns about screen printing white water based ink on black shirts. Don't be afraid of water based screen printing!
thank you for putting this together!
Great video
I’m 54 yrs old and I wish I had started learning about screen printing in the early 80’s and made it my career choice but it’s never too late I’m learning now and it will be my retirement hobby. Thank you and have a great day.
Indeed young man!
How many prints can you make with the amount of ink you used in the video?
Great Video. Thanks. I know very little. Question: Is water based ink an issue on polyester. I am gearing up to screen print on polyester felt. Any thoughts? I like the idea of curing at the lower temps than plastisol.
that is a HEFTY amount of ink lmao. i used catspit plastisol, i never knew they made waterbased too
"pro screen printers" absolutely kill me. They spend so much on chemicals, machines and supplies that promise high quality and flawless prints, then INTENTIONALLY include ink/screen defects in the design. wat
no direct insults, just a funny ubiquitous concept I noticed.
Right! Totally get where you're coming from.
Hey Mikey - what screen carousel system was that one?
Stupid question from a newbie. How or what best practice is there to line the screen up after you flash so it lines correctly on the shirt?
Are blends not recommended for bright colors when using wb ink?
No question is stupid in my opinion. You'll need to expose some registration marks in your screens so you can line them up. It can be any object really. Same place on each screen. Use registration color so it'll so up on all your screens in the same spot. You can do halftone blends with wb ink.
Mike, say I used this waterbase PFP as an underbase , how long do you flash in order to move on to lay plastisol on top of it? Then what’s the cure time for a mix of waterbase and plastisol print?
I wonder is it necessary to use flash to cure the plastisol ink? And why dont we use plastisol as a white underbase?
is it possible to cure it by letting it air dry?? if yes, i know it would take a long time but i’m just trying to be cost effective because i’m just starting out
thanks, and also nice vid!
is it possible to flash with a heat gun? im waiting to get more money to buy a flash thingy.
yes, but will take a really long time. I would suggest investing in a flash. Will save you time.
If you ever do another of these: it would be nice to see a successfully cured example where you run it twice on cotton and get the bright result.
Also following up and comparing to a control after that first wash
Wow! The opacity looks really good. I am looking to do waterbased print for the first time so I will go and use your promo code to get that ink and at the same time save $5.00. 👍Thanks Matt.
I'm back. Sorry the time out ,guys, i was working my music channel out. This is me now, formerly known as Richoo. Thanks Mike and Shan for another kick ass. video. 🤘✌🤙
Great info. Would love to see print number 14, when the ink starts to dry in the screen. Then on print 17 when the screen starts to stick to the shirt.
You got it! Keep an eye out for that video.
Which mesh did you use?
I am struggling a little with the ink drying fast.
I just switched to water based. Covers completely different but 100% easier to clean.
Just caught the part where you used 110.
hello,new to this and i have a question about how you stick the t shirt on the station?
Hi, there. I'm from Indonesia and I'm too late to learn screen printing, but I don't care lol. Right now, I'm using waterbased ink called "Matsui" (the character is like rubber and elastic). I don't know if you have used that kind of ink in there or not. But, based on the ink character that I use, should I go one hit (couple times) like what you did to get the vintage looks? I hope you read my comment, and have a time to reply it. Tons of thanks for the video!
Hello! I've heard of Matsui. Very popular Waterbased ink. How many times you hit it is up to you and how bright you want it. You could certainly do a print flash print to get a brighter white, or just print it and keep it more vintage looking.
Am a newbie in screen printing from Ghana. Please am mostly into water based for now. I print using the "baby oil technique"( printing on paper)
Please how do you do the mesh count??
(Though I have the plastisol ink and I have tried to use to design but I wasn't able to cure it properly. I used a hand dryer for the curing.)
The higher the number, the less ink it'll allow through, and the more detail the screen will hold. You'll have to judge based off of the type of work you do. For paper, high mesh counts will work better. 305.
Hey! I've been following your cruze build, didnt know you have a screen printing channel too!
LOL! Yeah, been doing it for a while now. :) This is how I make my living.
How to print a red color watar based on black t shirt
how long do they stay in the oven ? im kinda having problems with curing my white wb ink
Was this discharge ink ?
It was a standard opaque water based ink.
Hey, i am doring sublimation and HTV as a hobby and now i want to check out screen printing because i saw that first of all you can use your heat press and 2md you can use sign vinyl instead of thsoe UV coatings and third you can use water based inks. Since this is just for fun it should make fun, i saw videos about water based inks where the ink is drying within minutes and it was shown that you can not put the ink back in the original can once you used it. It water based ink really that bad or do you think you can print simple fonts with my method?
Water based is a great way to start, but you just need to back flood and the ink can dry up if you let it sit. You'll need to cure the ink just like plastisol to set it so it won't wash out. Waterbased inks take about 1.5-2 minutes in 330º heat to set and plastisol cures as soon as all the ink reaches 330º through out the film. Good luck and let us know if you have any questions!
Is it possible that you can use 1 design on 1 screen using 2 colors? the first is water based black ink and the other is white. The Ink always gets clogged so I end up removing the design and chaging it to a new one. Need Help.
David Can. Got you covered in my previous comment.
thank you so much for sharing this video! God bless you bro! 😊🔥
Any time!
Forgot to flood
:) you caught me. Filming can be distracting.
No mention of ink retarder/ other additives to stop the ink from sticking to the screen
Not needed for this ink.
I've ben using the same white from Catspit and have had success. I have had some issues with modeling and the ink drying really quick. Other than that it is a nice white and covers well. I haven't done much to test the curing as far as washing the shirts.
Nice! Did it sit up a white when it molded?
Can you use a flash curer or do you need a air dryer system for water based ink?
You could use a flash with a blow dryer but it would be slow. Force air, or a gas dryer would be best.
Cool print. 👍
Thanks!
Can you put sublimation transfer on a white water base
I don't believe so. I would try discharge because it removes the dye out of the shirt.
nice video..👍👍
Thanks, Tama!
How'd you get your logo is is copy paper or ??
I used transparency film with an inkjet printer.
Nice print!
Thank you!
Best mech count for water based inks?
Depends on the color. For color inks / overlay colors, 200-230. For a base (depending on the ink type HSA, etc.) I would say 156-195.
Nice
Thanks
Cool print
Thank you!
Good to see the Amex waterbased white being used. Recently stocked up with AMEX inks and yet to try them... looks good though.
I'm impressed with it thus far. Time to get some more colors.
what mesh count for that design?
We used a 195 or 200. Thanks for watching!