Great video young man!! There's no doubt that you will figure it out and get the job done. I do like your set up be you are enjoyin that a/c for sure. I know nothin about makin hay but always wanted to but never had the chance I'm 69 years old now don't recon i will now. But enjoy watchin people do it. Wish i was ya'lls neighbour i would enjoy helpin you. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun
Brock, good information. Side note from a fellow mole sufferer: I had about 6 moles/warts on my back that always gave me grief and I was always picking at. Went to my family doctor and asked him about it. He said that since it was cosmetic, it wasn't covered by my insurance. I asked him "Well, how about doing a biopsy on all of them for preventative cancer screening?" He said yes, that was covered as a preventative measure under my insurance. I then asked "How about just submitting the entirety of the moles for screening?" - he looked up, thought about it a minute, and said sure. I ended up having all six moles/warts removed (non came back positive of course) and it was 100% covered under the prevention coverage on my insurance. Had a single stitch and band aid on each for a day and poof, done! Thought I'd mention it if you wanted to get it taken care of. Good luck & God Bless.
What people are talking about is is doing the outer edge first, baling that (most people are raking and baling at the same time) then going down and back with the rake. This is easier with a v wheel rake but can be done with a rotary. The only time you aren’t baling is when you turn on the headland areas into the next row. You also skip over a row or two to make your turns bigger to help the driveline stay alive longer. In your shoes and baling after raking I would do the perimeter once and then go back and forth turning your straight rows into your perimeter at the end. That’s how we used to bale with a roller bar rake and using a square baler. Pete on just a few acres has some good videos showing this raking technique. Also I know you like showcasing compact style equipment and I think that’s great. However for what you invested a good used 335 Deere 4x4 baler and v rake could have been bought and had some money left over. 40 hp will turn one of those balers fine and it will take a decent windrow.
My fields aren't straight so I do the straight line row method. Been doing straight rows for years. I do a double wind row because it leaves the necessary space I need for cleanup purposes after I bale a row. I do rake in the dark and I rake at a very low speed. But you are correct, you need to learn what works for you. I rake and tedder at very low RPMs. Last, you'll always desire a "better" tractor than what you have. Great videos.
Exactly…you need to adjust the backlink to it won’t cut so hard in the ground. Good content and more power to you! Good to see people doing work and learning to the way. Our forefathers basically did it the same way and the wisdom they got from it is passed on to us so we wouldn’t need to have the hassle to learn it all through learn/trial experience👌
Goal is always to handle product as little as possible. Every handling reduces nutritional content of product. Non-PTO, ground-driven rakes & tedders are fine. Had others bale (round for cattle, small square for horses) and regardless result surrendered 50% of bales. Run numbers on avoiding expensive baler(s) vs 50% value of bales produced. Balers are expensive, take up storage space & fickle to keep operating perfectly AND mandate larger tractor / PTO - all factors preferred to avoid. God bless you & God bless America. TFS
The only limiting factor on a wheel rake on small tractors is you need a hydraulic circuit but as long as you have a hydraulic circuit you can pull a 6 or 8 wheel rake. Another rake option is the old new holland side delivery rakes. A wheel or a side delivery rake should be better than the rotary because there's less chance of leaf loss
Good morning Brock. Excellent explanation for why you do what you are doing. I think most people are assuming the techniques are the same for all hay making and that is simply not true. You have to treat the whole process according to what type equipment you are using just like you said. I sure wish you would change the Km to Mph. All you do is turn on the key, push the information button turn on the headlights on Low Beam and then hold in on the information button for 10-15 seconds and the Km will change to Mph. Same with the Temperature, but turn the headlights to HIgh beam and will change it from Celsius to Fahrenheit. Thanks for the video and have a wonderful Sunday.
If you want to convert your display to miles per hour do the following. With the tractor off, turn the key to accessory but don’t start the tractor, turn your headlights to high beams, then hold the info button for 5-10 seconds. If your coolant temp is displaying it should convert from Celsius to Fahrenheit.
All I know about hay making is the names of the machines and what they do. I don't have enough open ground to make it worth it anyway. You mentioned that pile if logs. I have a powerline that crosses my property for half a mile. The tree trimmers spent 3 days cutting the oaks back to the 15 foot requirement on each side of the wires. I asked the guys driving the big Cat tracksteers with forestry mulchers that were chewing up the fallen tops and smaller trees, if they would leave a few of them for me to have as firewood. They were happy to do so! Yesterday, I walked down the entire half mile and back up the other side. Now I not only have hundreds of 4" to 8" trees to cut, but there are dozens of trees between 12" and 24" without tops, standing on the edge of the clear cut, that I can mill. It'll take the rest of the summer and into the fall. Crazy!
Hey Brock I think this small hay equipment is cool but I tell you what. You’re going to hate baling with them small wind rows you’ll be riding forever. But as far as making hay with small tractors. A person could buy a cycle mower a rollabar rake and a small 4x4 baler used and have a whole hay setup for 10k or maybe just a little more and do it all with a 40-50 hp tractor and on flat ground maybe even smaller than that
probably just a learning curve but traditional single rake would rake in and then reverse and rake out you can control windrow size by how much you rake out. I think many would be better off just buying a larger tractor to begin with if they want to do hay, just really gives you more options on balers, mowers, lots of used equipment versus getting stuck with looking for mini equipment that your low hp tractor may handle.
Most hay rakes don’t take a lot of hp to pull. We always raked with our smaller tractors to save fuel. We used a Ford bar rake and an off brand 6 wheel rake. Raking really depended on how thick the crop was. If really thick we single raked the windrows. Other times we double and triple raked. If square baling a single windrow shape was great. For round bailing with a smaller New Holland round baler I tried to put two windrows next to each other but wide enough apart to be on each edge of the pickup so I didn’t have to move side to side to fill the bale
There are two things I've found about the TYM 574CH vs the Kubota L4701HST that I don't like. One is range on the transmission. On the Kubota, medium range is good for just about everything. High range was only used on the road, and low range was only used when really pulling something hard, like a tree or pulling my neighbors tractor out of a rut he got it stuck in. On the TYM, medium range requires running around 2500 RPM or more to get any speed, and high range lacks the pulling power. Low range is so low as to almost be ridiculous. The other is the coast down. Take your foot off the treadle on the Kubota, it'll coast down to a stop quickly, but not just slam to a stop. The TYM has no coast down at all, and it creeps. On the rest of the comparisons, the TYM wins. But I'd sure like to have the Kubota transmission in the TYM.
Looks like there's pins underneath the hub of the rake to adjust how vertical the wheels (gauge wheels) stand. That's your height adjustment. You want to get all of the hay, without digging in the dirt. It's hard on equipment, and you don't want dirt in your bales. It looks like you can pick the entire rake up with your 3 pt. To turn on the ends, or transport from field to field. As far as pattern, the goal is to make it convenient to get everything while minimizing driving on top of your wind row. Doing end rows and going back and forth makes baling better in a bigger field. Little road ditches, point rows, etc. It's more of an art and less of a science.
You might think about getting away from the narrow pick up on the small baler. Look for a nine foot used new new holland haybine and a Vermeer rebel / now called classic round baler. You’re going to struggle with that small equipment when your hay does get thick. That auto throttle is problem. tym needs to make that an on/off option or go with ls mt357. They only thing tym has over it is some lift height and the mechanical fuel pump. I think the ls is a much smoother better Layed out unit for actual continuous long hours of work.
Just for information sakes you can adjust the windrow width on most v rakes. You can bale hay a thousand different ways, you’ll figure your own way out that you like.
A lot of it depends on the type of hay Rake you have, the best one my Dad ever had was a Vermeer that ran on hydraulics so the speed of the rake doesn't very when you go around the corners.
You can get v rakes for your size of tractors but l edvies you to stay away from them enething in the field trash, dirt, enething that's not in the ground eney v rake well pickup and put in the windrows you can go faster with them but at the cost of good hay
Don't know how many HP your tractor is, But rakes and tedders take very little to run. I run a 17' wide Kuhn tedder with a 25HP JD 1956 420 tractor with no issues. A few things that I think you're not visualizing correctly. If you just rake in a continuous circle, eventually the circle gets tighter and tighter. So when you're baling, you eventually won't be able to make the turns and you will be driving without baling. What people are recommending (and is the most commonly thing done) is to create what are known as "headlands". You go around a rectangular field about 4 times with the rake and then just rake up and down lengthwise to make the longest windrows possible. You can break up a field into sections so you are not driving too far without raking. So now when you bale, go around until your headlands and baled and then just go lengthwise. Again, break up the field into sections. You will never run over a windrow. Of course all bets are off with the tiny stuff you have...but at least you understand the theory. Right??
We never raked. Main reason is every pass eats into your profits and there is only so much time. If we got a rain we let it dry a couple days and baled it. Only did old school square bales and enjoyed it. Used 870 John Deere and John Deere baler from the 70’s.
Hey brock you do what works for you... I know you raked in circles where I get if someone is running a big tractor with a drawbar mounted big baler to pick up windows in a corner you could end up driving the tractor into a bale from the previous lap. Just find out what works for you and what doesn't. You live and you learn.
I just watched "How Farms Work" video published today 7-14-24 about tedding hay and noticed his tedder was set lower in the front and very high in the rear and it looked like it threw the hay up in the air to fluff it more Im not a farmer but I enjoy watching those kind of videos check it out
kilometers to mph multiply by .62 to get mph or at such slow speeds just multiply by .6. .6 x 11=6.6 so round off to 7 mph. Quite simple don't you think? Have a good time raking your hay. Wish my tractor had a speedometer.Take care Brock.
Yeah, it can be switched over. I had a general idea that it was probably around 6 to 7 but I was too lazy to switch the dash to American units. I will eventually
Our 1025 can pull the 4 wheel rake from ibex alright. It struggles I little. I will say, we’re still trying hard to master it. Very finicky with adjustments.
Your rake is basically a side delivery rake. I think you should try going in the direction for single windrows which throws the hay out instead of in. Make sense? L E A R N I N G C U R V E !
I run 30ft of product behind a rotary rake everytime in front of my jd 337 small square baler. I would rather run the baler slower and less passes then faster and more passes. Central wisconsin averaging 80-100 bales per ac. I would double windrows minimum for ease of convenience on the baler wither way.
Brock, those small hay implements while seeming like a great idea, just don't make much sense in your use case....the amount of hay you are trying to bale it would make more sense to have a larger baler it would seem to cut down on the amount of time you are driving that tractor around. We know that size tractor you have can run a larger baler, do you plan on maybe trying a larger baler for your next cutting, and see what the difference is going to be? I mean, you got the channel, and the ability to get other implements, for the channel content I think it would be interesting for you to swap hay implements on the next cutting and see what your results are....but man I'd rather be doing something else than driving that tractor around a field with that mini-baler trying to pickup all that hay, it just seems like its the wrong baler for the field sizes you have....that mini baler would work fine for 1-2 acres, but anything more than that its going to be more sensible to run a larger baler to make quicker work out of that chore....when you are doing this for the income you really want the larger implements otherwise you'll never break even on the implement cost, time, maintenance, and consumables (twine or net wrap).
In an ideal world, I will test every piece of equipment. I can get my hands on because I learned from it, and it provides value to the viewer. I had a conversation with Jake about how big of a Baler this tractor could run. I think it could run that new Holland Baler that they have. I’m still trying to make my mind up if maybe this is the perfect size Baler for my size property. The task now that all the Hay is bailed to see how well these sell
We have a lot of customers that sell these smaller bales because there are many people who have sub compact tractors that cannot lift a 4x4 or 4x5 round bale. My Japanese net baler can bale 150 bales per-hour or two acres/ hour. Your right it does not make sense to some people but many can see the justification for this equipment. Many people just want hay, time is not to much of a concern. We have had many customers come to our facility and tell me they are out over 90k before they can bale one bale if they go to Deere, CNH, Massey or Kubota. They can have new reliable equipment for under 16k from us. We have been selling and supporting it since 2006.
You are getting a range of comments but I think that some are missing the point that you are demonstrating small hay implements for your viewers. While your situation could use larger equipment, there are many out there who this equipment would be a perfect fit. Just curious if you are keeping track of all your time and inputs (fuel, etc). Might make a nice video at the end of the season to just detail your total costs and what that came out to per bale.
I am not a fan of one piece of equipment that can do two different things OK. I would rather have a Tedder and a rake, since they do the job much better than the combo unit.
WHY DON'T IT HAVE A HAND THROTTLE???!!! Who makes a tractor without a hand throttle? That makes no sense. Every tractor pre 2020 that I know of has a hand throttle, even the steam engines have hand throttles, they are there for a reason.
Please explain what you mean. Of course it has a hand throttle. It also has auto throttle, which means that when you depress the hydrostatic pedal all the way down it automatically corresponds by raising the throttle. This is called linked pedal. Most modern Hydrostats that have linked pedal you can turn that feature on and off with a switch. With this specific model, the linked pedal feature is always on
@@RockhillfarmYTI think without being able switch auto throttle off you will struggle to do most hay making processes as they require pto speed to stay constant while varying your ground speed to feed mower/baler etc
@@Lackieestatesfarm that was my commentary in the video and the workaround was to shift into a higher gear that doesn’t require me to have the accelerator pedal all the way down. That lets it maintain the RPM set by hand throttle. But a Hydrost I. high gear is not a great hill, climbing machine.
Great video young man!! There's no doubt that you will figure it out and get the job done. I do like your set up be you are enjoyin that a/c for sure. I know nothin about makin hay but always wanted to but never had the chance I'm 69 years old now don't recon i will now. But enjoy watchin people do it. Wish i was ya'lls neighbour i would enjoy helpin you. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun
Brock, good information. Side note from a fellow mole sufferer: I had about 6 moles/warts on my back that always gave me grief and I was always picking at. Went to my family doctor and asked him about it. He said that since it was cosmetic, it wasn't covered by my insurance. I asked him "Well, how about doing a biopsy on all of them for preventative cancer screening?" He said yes, that was covered as a preventative measure under my insurance. I then asked "How about just submitting the entirety of the moles for screening?" - he looked up, thought about it a minute, and said sure. I ended up having all six moles/warts removed (non came back positive of course) and it was 100% covered under the prevention coverage on my insurance. Had a single stitch and band aid on each for a day and poof, done! Thought I'd mention it if you wanted to get it taken care of. Good luck & God Bless.
Great info
We used a wide wheel rake last year and made narrow windrows for a mini baler....they are adjustable. It's all a learning process!
What people are talking about is is doing the outer edge first, baling that (most people are raking and baling at the same time) then going down and back with the rake. This is easier with a v wheel rake but can be done with a rotary. The only time you aren’t baling is when you turn on the headland areas into the next row. You also skip over a row or two to make your turns bigger to help the driveline stay alive longer.
In your shoes and baling after raking I would do the perimeter once and then go back and forth turning your straight rows into your perimeter at the end. That’s how we used to bale with a roller bar rake and using a square baler. Pete on just a few acres has some good videos showing this raking technique.
Also I know you like showcasing compact style equipment and I think that’s great. However for what you invested a good used 335 Deere 4x4 baler and v rake could have been bought and had some money left over. 40 hp will turn one of those balers fine and it will take a decent windrow.
Great Video Mr Brock. Enjoying watching you go through this process
My fields aren't straight so I do the straight line row method. Been doing straight rows for years. I do a double wind row because it leaves the necessary space I need for cleanup purposes after I bale a row. I do rake in the dark and I rake at a very low speed. But you are correct, you need to learn what works for you. I rake and tedder at very low RPMs. Last, you'll always desire a "better" tractor than what you have. Great videos.
Exactly…you need to adjust the backlink to it won’t cut so hard in the ground. Good content and more power to you! Good to see people doing work and learning to the way. Our forefathers basically did it the same way and the wisdom they got from it is passed on to us so we wouldn’t need to have the hassle to learn it all through learn/trial experience👌
Goal is always to handle product as little as possible. Every handling reduces nutritional content of product. Non-PTO, ground-driven rakes & tedders are fine. Had others bale (round for cattle, small square for horses) and regardless result surrendered 50% of bales. Run numbers on avoiding expensive baler(s) vs 50% value of bales produced. Balers are expensive, take up storage space & fickle to keep operating perfectly AND mandate larger tractor / PTO - all factors preferred to avoid. God bless you & God bless America. TFS
Hey Brock. I believe Hank has a video on switching the read outs from metric to standard.
The only limiting factor on a wheel rake on small tractors is you need a hydraulic circuit but as long as you have a hydraulic circuit you can pull a 6 or 8 wheel rake. Another rake option is the old new holland side delivery rakes. A wheel or a side delivery rake should be better than the rotary because there's less chance of leaf loss
Good morning Brock. Excellent explanation for why you do what you are doing. I think most people are assuming the techniques are the same for all hay making and that is simply not true. You have to treat the whole process according to what type equipment you are using just like you said. I sure wish you would change the Km to Mph. All you do is turn on the key, push the information button turn on the headlights on Low Beam and then hold in on the information button for 10-15 seconds and the Km will change to Mph. Same with the Temperature, but turn the headlights to HIgh beam and will change it from Celsius to Fahrenheit. Thanks for the video and have a wonderful Sunday.
If you want to convert your display to miles per hour do the following. With the tractor off, turn the key to accessory but don’t start the tractor, turn your headlights to high beams, then hold the info button for 5-10 seconds. If your coolant temp is displaying it should convert from Celsius to Fahrenheit.
Or just know that 1km is .6 miles!
All I know about hay making is the names of the machines and what they do. I don't have enough open ground to make it worth it anyway.
You mentioned that pile if logs. I have a powerline that crosses my property for half a mile. The tree trimmers spent 3 days cutting the oaks back to the 15 foot requirement on each side of the wires.
I asked the guys driving the big Cat tracksteers with forestry mulchers that were chewing up the fallen tops and smaller trees, if they would leave a few of them for me to have as firewood. They were happy to do so!
Yesterday, I walked down the entire half mile and back up the other side. Now I not only have hundreds of 4" to 8" trees to cut, but there are dozens of trees between 12" and 24" without tops, standing on the edge of the clear cut, that I can mill. It'll take the rest of the summer and into the fall.
Crazy!
Hey Brock I think this small hay equipment is cool but I tell you what. You’re going to hate baling with them small wind rows you’ll be riding forever. But as far as making hay with small tractors. A person could buy a cycle mower a rollabar rake and a small 4x4 baler used and have a whole hay setup for 10k or maybe just a little more and do it all with a 40-50 hp tractor and on flat ground maybe even smaller than that
probably just a learning curve but traditional single rake would rake in and then reverse and rake out you can control windrow size by how much you rake out. I think many would be better off just buying a larger tractor to begin with if they want to do hay, just really gives you more options on balers, mowers, lots of used equipment versus getting stuck with looking for mini equipment that your low hp tractor may handle.
Most hay rakes don’t take a lot of hp to pull. We always raked with our smaller tractors to save fuel. We used a Ford bar rake and an off brand 6 wheel rake. Raking really depended on how thick the crop was. If really thick we single raked the windrows. Other times we double and triple raked. If square baling a single windrow shape was great. For round bailing with a smaller New Holland round baler I tried to put two windrows next to each other but wide enough apart to be on each edge of the pickup so I didn’t have to move side to side to fill the bale
There are two things I've found about the TYM 574CH vs the Kubota L4701HST that I don't like. One is range on the transmission. On the Kubota, medium range is good for just about everything. High range was only used on the road, and low range was only used when really pulling something hard, like a tree or pulling my neighbors tractor out of a rut he got it stuck in. On the TYM, medium range requires running around 2500 RPM or more to get any speed, and high range lacks the pulling power. Low range is so low as to almost be ridiculous. The other is the coast down. Take your foot off the treadle on the Kubota, it'll coast down to a stop quickly, but not just slam to a stop. The TYM has no coast down at all, and it creeps. On the rest of the comparisons, the TYM wins. But I'd sure like to have the Kubota transmission in the TYM.
Looks like there's pins underneath the hub of the rake to adjust how vertical the wheels (gauge wheels) stand. That's your height adjustment. You want to get all of the hay, without digging in the dirt. It's hard on equipment, and you don't want dirt in your bales. It looks like you can pick the entire rake up with your 3 pt. To turn on the ends, or transport from field to field.
As far as pattern, the goal is to make it convenient to get everything while minimizing driving on top of your wind row. Doing end rows and going back and forth makes baling better in a bigger field. Little road ditches, point rows, etc. It's more of an art and less of a science.
Thanks!
Thank you
Good stuff Brock!
You might think about getting away from the narrow pick up on the small baler.
Look for a nine foot used new new holland haybine and a Vermeer rebel / now called classic round baler. You’re going to struggle with that small equipment when your hay does get thick. That auto throttle is problem. tym needs to make that an on/off option or go with ls mt357. They only thing tym has over it is some lift height and the mechanical fuel pump. I think the ls is a much smoother better Layed out unit for actual continuous long hours of work.
Just for information sakes you can adjust the windrow width on most v rakes. You can bale hay a thousand different ways, you’ll figure your own way out that you like.
A lot of it depends on the type of hay Rake you have, the best one my Dad ever had was a Vermeer that ran on hydraulics so the speed of the rake doesn't very when you go around the corners.
You learn how to mow once you rake. You learn how to rake when you bale. Hay is like making Chili everybody has their own way.
You can get v rakes for your size of tractors but l edvies you to stay away from them enething in the field trash, dirt, enething that's not in the ground eney v rake well pickup and put in the windrows you can go faster with them but at the cost of good hay
Don't know how many HP your tractor is, But rakes and tedders take very little to run. I run a 17' wide Kuhn tedder with a 25HP JD 1956 420 tractor with no issues.
A few things that I think you're not visualizing correctly. If you just rake in a continuous circle, eventually the circle gets tighter and tighter. So when you're baling, you eventually won't be able to make the turns and you will be driving without baling. What people are recommending (and is the most commonly thing done) is to create what are known as "headlands". You go around a rectangular field about 4 times with the rake and then just rake up and down lengthwise to make the longest windrows possible. You can break up a field into sections so you are not driving too far without raking. So now when you bale, go around until your headlands and baled and then just go lengthwise. Again, break up the field into sections. You will never run over a windrow.
Of course all bets are off with the tiny stuff you have...but at least you understand the theory. Right??
We never raked. Main reason is every pass eats into your profits and there is only so much time. If we got a rain we let it dry a couple days and baled it. Only did old school square bales and enjoyed it. Used 870 John Deere and John Deere baler from the 70’s.
Hey brock you do what works for you... I know you raked in circles where I get if someone is running a big tractor with a drawbar mounted big baler to pick up windows in a corner you could end up driving the tractor into a bale from the previous lap. Just find out what works for you and what doesn't. You live and you learn.
Been putting up hay for over 30!years and I learn something everyday I do it. I wouldn’t own that rake or low clearance tractor to hay with.
I'm just here to say "Hay"! 👋
Hay, hay, hay
To add to my last comment if you step up a few bucks look at the ls mt573. 73 horse tractor Now you can hay and handle some get it done equipment.
I just watched "How Farms Work" video published today 7-14-24 about tedding hay and noticed his tedder was set lower in the front and very high in the rear and it looked like it threw the hay up in the air to fluff it more Im not a farmer but I enjoy watching those kind of videos check it out
Great Video thank you . I am interested to hear if its worth the equipment purchase
kilometers to mph multiply by .62 to get mph or at such slow speeds just multiply by .6. .6 x 11=6.6 so round off to 7 mph. Quite simple don't you think? Have a good time raking your hay. Wish my tractor had a speedometer.Take care Brock.
Yeah, it can be switched over. I had a general idea that it was probably around 6 to 7 but I was too lazy to switch the dash to American units.
I will eventually
Our 1025 can pull the 4 wheel rake from ibex alright. It struggles I little. I will say, we’re still trying hard to master it. Very finicky with adjustments.
Your rake is basically a side delivery rake. I think you should try going in the direction for single windrows which throws the hay out instead of in. Make sense?
L E A R N I N G C U R V E !
Once you rake you learn how to mow and once you bale then you learn how to rake. 😉
I run 30ft of product behind a rotary rake everytime in front of my jd 337 small square baler. I would rather run the baler slower and less passes then faster and more passes. Central wisconsin averaging 80-100 bales per ac. I would double windrows minimum for ease of convenience on the baler wither way.
Brock, those small hay implements while seeming like a great idea, just don't make much sense in your use case....the amount of hay you are trying to bale it would make more sense to have a larger baler it would seem to cut down on the amount of time you are driving that tractor around. We know that size tractor you have can run a larger baler, do you plan on maybe trying a larger baler for your next cutting, and see what the difference is going to be? I mean, you got the channel, and the ability to get other implements, for the channel content I think it would be interesting for you to swap hay implements on the next cutting and see what your results are....but man I'd rather be doing something else than driving that tractor around a field with that mini-baler trying to pickup all that hay, it just seems like its the wrong baler for the field sizes you have....that mini baler would work fine for 1-2 acres, but anything more than that its going to be more sensible to run a larger baler to make quicker work out of that chore....when you are doing this for the income you really want the larger implements otherwise you'll never break even on the implement cost, time, maintenance, and consumables (twine or net wrap).
In an ideal world, I will test every piece of equipment. I can get my hands on because I learned from it, and it provides value to the viewer.
I had a conversation with Jake about how big of a Baler this tractor could run. I think it could run that new Holland Baler that they have.
I’m still trying to make my mind up if maybe this is the perfect size Baler for my size property.
The task now that all the Hay is bailed to see how well these sell
We have a lot of customers that sell these smaller bales because there are many people who have sub compact tractors that cannot lift a 4x4 or 4x5 round bale. My Japanese net baler can bale 150 bales per-hour or two acres/ hour. Your right it does not make sense to some people but many can see the justification for this equipment. Many people just want hay, time is not to much of a concern. We have had many customers come to our facility and tell me they are out over 90k before they can bale one bale if they go to Deere, CNH, Massey or Kubota. They can have new reliable equipment for under 16k from us. We have been selling and supporting it since 2006.
You are getting a range of comments but I think that some are missing the point that you are demonstrating small hay implements for your viewers. While your situation could use larger equipment, there are many out there who this equipment would be a perfect fit. Just curious if you are keeping track of all your time and inputs (fuel, etc). Might make a nice video at the end of the season to just detail your total costs and what that came out to per bale.
I will put out a summary video. By the way, my videos are 3 days behind
The hay is baled
@@RockhillfarmYT Yes, I think I understood that. I bet you’re glad it’s done!
Brock, 11kmh = 6.8 mph, FYI.
Mr Brock if your going 11km/h then you are going 6.835 miles per hour! Just ask your smart phone.
Yes, 1 kilometer is almost exactly 5/8 of a mile.
I'm no farmer but isn't there a machine that can rake & bale at the same time?
I am not a fan of one piece of equipment that can do two different things OK. I would rather have a Tedder and a rake, since they do the job much better than the combo unit.
Watch the Veggie Boys and A Stable Life!
👀👀
Compact tractor is worthless on most any kind farm they made for little yard work it’s just a big lawn mower
WHY DON'T IT HAVE A HAND THROTTLE???!!! Who makes a tractor without a hand throttle? That makes no sense. Every tractor pre 2020 that I know of has a hand throttle, even the steam engines have hand throttles, they are there for a reason.
Please explain what you mean. Of course it has a hand throttle.
It also has auto throttle, which means that when you depress the hydrostatic pedal all the way down it automatically corresponds by raising the throttle. This is called linked pedal.
Most modern Hydrostats that have linked pedal you can turn that feature on and off with a switch. With this specific model, the linked pedal feature is always on
@@RockhillfarmYTI think without being able switch auto throttle off you will struggle to do most hay making processes as they require pto speed to stay constant while varying your ground speed to feed mower/baler etc
@@Lackieestatesfarm that was my commentary in the video and the workaround was to shift into a higher gear that doesn’t require me to have the accelerator pedal all the way down.
That lets it maintain the RPM set by hand throttle. But a Hydrost I. high gear is not a great hill, climbing machine.