I want to say thank you for your videos on the cx-7 pfun. The family and I have the same issues and although we have a Civic as a great running backup, its a small car, this 2008 cx7 has been sitting and being unused. Yesterday, I took off the lower cat and saw the carbon gunk. I see the huge amount of oil in the inlet housing for the intercooler. Turbo is shot, looked just like yours. Car is sluggish with very little power to pull into traffic and takes a mile to get up to 65mph. It will not rev like any vehicle while it park, it slowly ramps up and boggs down. The car was displaying bad behavior, so we stopped driving it. Bought a scotty kilmer suggested THINKOBD 100 on amazon for $40, nice unit. Hooked it up to our perfect running civic, wrote down every live data value (37 of them) and also the values when I accelerate to 3000rpm from a 760 rpm idle, while sitting in the driveway air cond on. Then moved to the CX7 and did the same thing on my paper. This showed me a good value compared to a bad value with voltage, temp, pressures, fuel trims short and long...etc, by the way 3% short term fuel trim and 21% long term fuel trim is not normal, I read this two values need to be at or close to zero as possible, its how much the ecu is feeding the injectors so to save the engine, based on the maf and o2 sensors. I learned a lot doing this back and forth on the two cars, it did take more than a couple hours and glasses of my wifes sweet tea. Pulled the codes on the cx-7 and got p2177,p 21278, p301 misfire, p0137 o2 sensor low volt, p2096 post cat fuel trim lean, p2187 sys too lean bank 1. With that info and your video, today is the day I pull the turbo and the cat that is attached to it. With your 3 videos here and videos on youtube from World Mechanics, Auto Repair Guys, Eric the Car Guy and others, I believe I can get this done. I have this week bought: 2 new O2 sensors, new air cleaner, new MAF, took out the pcv valve (and replaced w a new one from UNDER the vehicle which took 1 solid our and was very tight and difficult without breaking the clip), bought new ignition coils also, all this and when starting the car, it did the same thing w codes erased. THis tells me I should have watched your videos first or brought it to you ;-) Im writing all this to say thanks for your videos and to help the next guy or gal attempting to fix their 33K dollar grand touring car (way too much money for this mazda/ford tech). The update on parts...I ordered a new Turbo Charger K0422-882 for Mazda 3 6 CX7 CX-7 2.3L MZR DISI 53047109905, it will be here next week, i'll chime in here and tell you it solved our problems and I also ordered a new Cat Mazda CX-7 2.3L Manifold Catalytic Converter OBDII 2007-2009 DirectFit 5H40880 to go along with it. I wanted to do what you did here and replace the cartridge but for $150, ill try the china version...why? well this borg warner oem junk only lasted 88k miles on our well taken care of car, so if a China one lasts 20 to 40k more miles (after fixed) I'd be pleased with that, because I know what to look for now. I was going to clean the cat scotty kilmer style, but thought, the hell with it, everything else will be new, it should be new too. I havent looked at the VVT timing issues and faulty ecu mosfet problems I keep reading about, errrr. I sure in the hell hope for a positive result here PFUN, because im using dozens of red towels taking whore baths at the kitchen sink with gojo super max and lava soap , my wife is losing faith in my, "honey, I'm gonna fix it" skills and I keep drinking up all the sweet tea in the Georgia summer heat.
Thank you. I like your assessment method/sequence. This lets me fix my turbo, then decide if I want to check the (potential) cam phaser. Any video that saves me time is a great video. Yours qualifies!
Heres my problem. The ventilation is before the turbo and my turbo and seals are new.....just replaced the pcv valve and rubber hose that was split open. Im still smoking and burning oil. Mechanic friend says its something in the ventilation system.
I dont share the same reasoning. Could be the PCV being plugged up. If the PCV is plugged or stuck closed. You wont have any oil reaching the intake, and the increased pressure will cause oil to push passed the shaft seals in the turbo as oil is not returning to the oil pan quick enough.
This is possible on turbo vehicles, however turbo failures are extremely common on these vehicles, it was mostly just confirming that the turbo is shot.I may amend the video in the future.
Brah.. that's not the pcv valve.. that's the breather. The pcv valve on that car is hidden under the intake manifold and you have to remove the intake to swap it out. I know, I've just replaced the turbo on my cx7.. most difficult car I've ever worked on. Again, pcv valve is under the intake. That's just a valve cover breather.. I actually replaced mine without removing the intake, but I should have removed the manifold because I couldn't get the new valve to seat all the way in.
Wasn't trying to be rude. I know that's the usual place a pcv valve is located, but that's a wide open breather tube with no valve. That sucker is well hidden under the intake manifold. You can see it from underneath located between water pump and starter behind the dipstick. All the how to videos say you have to remove the intake manifold, but I'm stubborn and did it from underneath.. hindsight? I would pull the intake if you have the skills, so you can swap the valve and the mounting plate and make absolutely sure the new pcv valve is properly seated.. just my 2 cents
I removed the turbo to intercooler hose and stuck a large mechanics cotton swab into the turbo outlet. You shouldn't have any oil on either side of the turbine. My swab came out dripping with oil and that verified my hypothesis that the bearing seal let go. $150 will buy a replacement turbo charger. Clogged pcv valve will more commonly cause multiple engine oil leaks. Another 2 cents? The swap would have been much quicker if I'd pulled the exhaust manifold. Not a mechanic by trade, so I dont know everything... Sadly, neither do a lot of "professional" mechanics
Mine got blown since I couldn’t figure out that the oil was disappearing so fast. After I had a snow bank crash right after I got it back the oil was gone and the engine blew.
Mine also has this white smoke issue. I've change the PCV valve, rebuilt the turbo and do th etop overhaul(change the valve seal and etc) but the problem still persists. During the top overhaul my mechanic told me that the piston and piston rings clearance still look OK. My car also still got the power, just problem with this white smoke. What else should I check?
Not necessarily. The issue is oil being sucked into the intake. That doesn't equate to high crankcase pressure. Though high crankcase pressure can be a factor in the turbo oil seals failing.
I am starting to wonder if the turbo on my 2010 cx7 is bad. I am going through a quart a month mostly short trips. But every 3 months I take a trip to a doctor's appointment an hour each way. I owned the car for 3 years. 123k miles. How much do turbo rebuilds or replacements cost? Or should I sell as is?
a Re manufactured turbo can cost as little as $125 to get it out is a whole different ball game ITS A BITCH !! i say the easiest way is to remove the engine out not all the way though , i just replaced on my mazda cx-7 and to get at the turbo while inside the engine bay its extremely difficult
A very clear and direct, step by step troubleshooting methodology. Really informative. Thanks!
I want to say thank you for your videos on the cx-7 pfun. The family and I have the same issues and although we have a Civic as a great running backup, its a small car, this 2008 cx7 has been sitting and being unused. Yesterday, I took off the lower cat and saw the carbon gunk. I see the huge amount of oil in the inlet housing for the intercooler. Turbo is shot, looked just like yours. Car is sluggish with very little power to pull into traffic and takes a mile to get up to 65mph. It will not rev like any vehicle while it park, it slowly ramps up and boggs down. The car was displaying bad behavior, so we stopped driving it. Bought a scotty kilmer suggested THINKOBD 100 on amazon for $40, nice unit. Hooked it up to our perfect running civic, wrote down every live data value (37 of them) and also the values when I accelerate to 3000rpm from a 760 rpm idle, while sitting in the driveway air cond on. Then moved to the CX7 and did the same thing on my paper. This showed me a good value compared to a bad value with voltage, temp, pressures, fuel trims short and long...etc, by the way 3% short term fuel trim and 21% long term fuel trim is not normal, I read this two values need to be at or close to zero as possible, its how much the ecu is feeding the injectors so to save the engine, based on the maf and o2 sensors. I learned a lot doing this back and forth on the two cars, it did take more than a couple hours and glasses of my wifes sweet tea.
Pulled the codes on the cx-7 and got p2177,p 21278, p301 misfire, p0137 o2 sensor low volt, p2096 post cat fuel trim lean, p2187 sys too lean bank 1. With that info and your video, today is the day I pull the turbo and the cat that is attached to it. With your 3 videos here and videos on youtube from World Mechanics, Auto Repair Guys, Eric the Car Guy and others, I believe I can get this done. I have this week bought: 2 new O2 sensors, new air cleaner, new MAF, took out the pcv valve (and replaced w a new one from UNDER the vehicle which took 1 solid our and was very tight and difficult without breaking the clip), bought new ignition coils also, all this and when starting the car, it did the same thing w codes erased. THis tells me I should have watched your videos first or brought it to you ;-) Im writing all this to say thanks for your videos and to help the next guy or gal attempting to fix their 33K dollar grand touring car (way too much money for this mazda/ford tech). The update on parts...I ordered a new Turbo Charger K0422-882 for Mazda 3 6 CX7 CX-7 2.3L MZR DISI 53047109905, it will be here next week, i'll chime in here and tell you it solved our problems and I also ordered a new Cat Mazda CX-7 2.3L Manifold Catalytic Converter OBDII 2007-2009 DirectFit 5H40880 to go along with it. I wanted to do what you did here and replace the cartridge but for $150, ill try the china version...why? well this borg warner oem junk only lasted 88k miles on our well taken care of car, so if a China one lasts 20 to 40k more miles (after fixed) I'd be pleased with that, because I know what to look for now. I was going to clean the cat scotty kilmer style, but thought, the hell with it, everything else will be new, it should be new too. I havent looked at the VVT timing issues and faulty ecu mosfet problems I keep reading about, errrr. I sure in the hell hope for a positive result here PFUN, because im using dozens of red towels taking whore baths at the kitchen sink with gojo super max and lava soap , my wife is losing faith in my, "honey, I'm gonna fix it" skills and I keep drinking up all the sweet tea in the Georgia summer heat.
Thank you. I like your assessment method/sequence.
This lets me fix my turbo, then decide if I want to check the (potential) cam phaser.
Any video that saves me time is a great video. Yours qualifies!
Heres my problem. The ventilation is before the turbo and my turbo and seals are new.....just replaced the pcv valve and rubber hose that was split open. Im still smoking and burning oil.
Mechanic friend says its something in the ventilation system.
Some had issues with the PCV system where it enters the valve cover.
@@pfun41 i ended up buying a catch can.gonna route the ventilation lines to the can then back to the intake.
@@F4llen4ngel130 did it work?
@@telmenfing8310 yes and no. Your better off just getting rid of the cx7 and getting a different vehicle.
I dont share the same reasoning.
Could be the PCV being plugged up.
If the PCV is plugged or stuck closed. You wont have any oil reaching the intake, and the increased pressure will cause oil to push passed the shaft seals in the turbo as oil is not returning to the oil pan quick enough.
This is possible on turbo vehicles, however turbo failures are extremely common on these vehicles, it was mostly just confirming that the turbo is shot.I may amend the video in the future.
@@pfun41 hi. I have the same problem. can you help me . You found the solution. Why is the oil consumed ???
Brah.. that's not the pcv valve.. that's the breather. The pcv valve on that car is hidden under the intake manifold and you have to remove the intake to swap it out. I know, I've just replaced the turbo on my cx7.. most difficult car I've ever worked on. Again, pcv valve is under the intake. That's just a valve cover breather.. I actually replaced mine without removing the intake, but I should have removed the manifold because I couldn't get the new valve to seat all the way in.
Wasn't trying to be rude. I know that's the usual place a pcv valve is located, but that's a wide open breather tube with no valve. That sucker is well hidden under the intake manifold. You can see it from underneath located between water pump and starter behind the dipstick. All the how to videos say you have to remove the intake manifold, but I'm stubborn and did it from underneath.. hindsight? I would pull the intake if you have the skills, so you can swap the valve and the mounting plate and make absolutely sure the new pcv valve is properly seated.. just my 2 cents
I removed the turbo to intercooler hose and stuck a large mechanics cotton swab into the turbo outlet. You shouldn't have any oil on either side of the turbine. My swab came out dripping with oil and that verified my hypothesis that the bearing seal let go. $150 will buy a replacement turbo charger. Clogged pcv valve will more commonly cause multiple engine oil leaks. Another 2 cents? The swap would have been much quicker if I'd pulled the exhaust manifold.
Not a mechanic by trade, so I dont know everything... Sadly, neither do a lot of "professional" mechanics
Mine got blown since I couldn’t figure out that the oil was disappearing so fast. After I had a snow bank crash right after I got it back the oil was gone and the engine blew.
Pvc is never changed on these vehicles because of its location and it blows the turbo oil seals
Mine only smoke when I hook up the vacuum to my blow off valve
Mine also has this white smoke issue. I've change the PCV valve, rebuilt the turbo and do th etop overhaul(change the valve seal and etc) but the problem still persists. During the top overhaul my mechanic told me that the piston and piston rings clearance still look OK. My car also still got the power, just problem with this white smoke. What else should I check?
I believe there was an updated valve cover design. Look into that and make sure your valve cover breather baffles are clear.
You may sell it the way it is? Lol... I was probably the sucker that bought your trade-in! 2007 CX7... Smokes out the exhaust. Had it for a year.
Impossible, it's sitting in my backyard.
@@pfun41 oh. Well I changed to 5w-40 oil. It now smokes.. Less.
@@modeljetjuggernaut4864 did you ever fix the problem? I was thinking about putting 5w40 as well or even 10w40 but I'm no expert
Do you get blow-by at oil filler when turbo fails on these engines?
Not necessarily. The issue is oil being sucked into the intake. That doesn't equate to high crankcase pressure. Though high crankcase pressure can be a factor in the turbo oil seals failing.
hi. I have the same problem. can you help me . You found the solution. Why is the oil consumed ???
Turbo seals.
@@pfun41 thanks !!!
I am starting to wonder if the turbo on my 2010 cx7 is bad. I am going through a quart a month mostly short trips. But every 3 months I take a trip to a doctor's appointment an hour each way. I owned the car for 3 years. 123k miles. How much do turbo rebuilds or replacements cost? Or should I sell as is?
They aren't cheap to fix. Personally I can't recommend keeping these cars. The one in this video grenaded the transmission at 122k.
Thanks for the reply. I gotta get with my mechanic and see what he thinks. I'm thinking about selling it.
a Re manufactured turbo can cost as little as $125 to get it out is a whole different ball game ITS A BITCH !! i say the easiest way is to remove the engine out not all the way though , i just replaced on my mazda cx-7 and to get at the turbo while inside the engine bay its extremely difficult
Labor is about 800 bucks a good turbo is 350-500
Rebuilt k04’s are not that expensive! Now how much for a new car
Mazda engines are designed with low tension piston rings to reduce friction to improve mpg just a bad designed
Soz