*Regarding the comments about the lugs have tapers on them so the wheel will be centered regardless of hub centric or not:* Yes although the lugs do have tapers to center the wheel and or spacer on the hub, there is a much higher chance of it not being centered when not running a hub centric setup and this is where most the issues of spacers come from. Which is why I suggested to only get hub centric. *For instance:* A lot of people bolt on their wheel and hand tighten their lugs to maybe 15 ft/lbs of torque. Then they lower their car on the ground and torque it to spec. If the wheel doesn't have a hub diameter properly matched with the hub diameter on the car then there is a possibility that when lowering the car on the ground and the full weight of the car is applied to the wheel, that the wheel will move off center since the lugs are not fully torqued and are not holding the wheel 100% in place. Then when you go to torque the lugs, you will torque the wheels off center. Make sense? So by having it hub centric it eliminates that room for error. And considering the negligible price difference between hub centric spacers and non hub centric it's best to go with a hub centric setup Thanks :)
OffBeat Garage yes and people also tend to ignore the correct two stage tightening process and some of them even tighten the nuts/bolts in a circular manner instead of going 1324 or 142635.
Need more vids like this so noobs can learn and not be noobs anymore. For future vids maybe talk about tire sizes and grip ratings, brake swaps for 240's, suspension tuning for drift,drag, or road racing..... blah blah blah
If you tighten in a star pattern gradually you eliminate the need for hubcentric rings. The star patter applies even pressure and will gradually center the wheel
thanks for putting this video together. it really helps illustrate how wheel spacers are intended to be used and what buyers should be looking for when shopping for spacers.
That ending: "I won't let them hurt you ever again" Very comprehensive video. Thanks alot. They get a bad rep, because people just want to stance their car with it, and like you explained could be dangerous when not thinking it through.
This video should be referenced in every single car forum.. I'm so sick of answering dumb questions that seem like common sense. great video bro.. keep em comin.
When I installed my 16x8 TE37s on my e30 I run a 5mm, non-hub centric, spacer but it does have the same center bore as my hub. Enough of the hub sticks out past the spacer where I can use my hub centric rings to center my wheels. I did lots of research before purchasing anything. Thanks for this video, I'm sure it'll help a lot of people 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Another thing to note is to make sure the wheels you are running have reliefs cut in the back of the mounting surface for the studs that stick out from bolt on spacers
Thank you so much for encouraging people to do shit properly! So many hacks out there don't consider safety when modifying their car. Like the whole excessive camber thing: you could kill someone driving that shit on the road.
*Brief Table of Contents* •Reasons people run spacers - 00:30 •Different types of spacers - 03:54 •What to look out for when buying spacers - 10:20 •Addressing arguments against spacers - 12:07
I've had zero balance issues running my lug centric hub spacers on both of my trucks. One truck uses spacers between the dually wheels to prevent tire rub, and my other truck a 2wd, using them to space the rear tires out to fill the wider rear fenders for running staggered size tires. They are tapered the same way lug holes are in most wheels, therefore when torqued properly, they are centered perfectly and have no vibration at any speed..no hub centric rings required. The method I use which is tried and true for decades (and a TSB for some past makes and models of vehicles) is tightening two opposing lugnuts to a low torque, which centers the wheel on the lug studs. Then add the rest of your lug nuts, and torque them to the same setting. Then perform final torque in the proper torque sequence and torque value per your vehicle's manufacturer recommendations. Even if you don't run spacers, this is still a proper method of torquing any wheel, as by starting two opposing lug nuts at a lower torque at first will always bring a non hubcentic wheel into alignment before applying final torque. After 20+ years, and 100's of thousands of miles between all my vehicles at high speeds and high load capacities, I've had nothing but 100% safe and reliable results. Just my .02 and experience as both a military vehicle and aircraft mechanic. Your results may vary.
As a mechanical Engineer, I appreciate that you shared such great information. Good on you for actually doing research and making sure you understood it rather than taking an internet mechanics word. Also was really happy when you mentioned how the clamping friction is how the load is transferred, this let me know that you really did research and found good sources, as this is how I learned it in class and it makes sense. You are quite intelligent (have watched since the first drift car was bought), and you have always made that obvious with how you choose to approach things.
blindassassin111 the funny thing is clamping friction is the same argument used for why you can get away with not being hubcentric. Glad he recommended remaining hubcentric anyway.
But clamping friction doesn't center wheels so that is a bad argument. Being hubcentric accounts for centering and clamping friction accounts for load, both are needed. On the wheel centers I designed for a small race car, the wheel is hubcentric and doesn't use tapered lugs to aid the centering, but being hubcentric is a necessity for safe mounting.
blindassassin111 I agree with you. Just noting people use that as an argument for hub centric not being necessary....particularly with tapered lug nuts. Those people, the vast majority of cases, are wrong. There are exceptions. But whatever. No reason not to be hubcentric, other than a few specific type wheel exceptions.
I run 20mm spacers on the front of my e36 to clear the control arm for my angle kit at 68 degrees of lock. Never had any problem with them and I've been running them for 2 years in proam. As long as you don't cheap out, you shouldn't have any issues.
you can gently tighten two opposing lug nuts to "center" the wheels to an extent when using non hub centric spacers. been doing it for years across multiple chassis' with no issue
The studs are what take all the torque of the drivetrain, so what you said isn't true.The hubcentric rings look pretty pointless imo. If you install your wheel using a star pattern when tightening the lugs you'll have no issue just like what PlymParkOG said, and it's honestly the first thing any mechanic or anyone with general automotive knowledge should know.
Oplet also not true. the friction between the hub surface and inside wheel surface is transferring that load. All the studs are designed to do is hold the two together. Their strength is along their length, under tension.
magnetic0314 its a mix of both. however the centric rings still don't hold any load at all. and they still are pointless unless someone is just using regular hex nuts for their lugs.
I can't say more. I love how this is explained correctly. Okay... If you have excessive bearing wear, that means you're offsetting the bearing, causing damage due to the bearing load not on the load areas specified for the bearing(oblique force). Spacers are not really bad since they allow flexibility, but since they are bolted on, you can expect some losses because of that(a single piece is stronger than multiple parts held together). Changing the offset of your wheels not only affects load balancing and track width, but also can give you more headroom to fit wider tires that the stock offset cannot. If *possible*, always get your rims with the correct offset *before* choosing a wheel spacer if you cannot have the proper offset. And about unsprung weight, increased mass on the wheel due to the offset is basically the same exact thing as a spacer adding mass. The spacer will always have more mass due to the lugs.
great video man. one thing thing that is uncommon is for example there is no protruding hub on the rear of a nissan 280zx. but just have to be paying attention when putting wheels and spacers on.
Not all wheels are designed to be hub centric. The Aero/Bassett wheels I run on my hillclimb car are specifically lug-centric and they warn against even trying to balance on a normal wheel/tire balancer that is designed to work on hub-centric wheels. More of an outlier situation since most alloy wheels are designed to be hub-centric, but something to note. Keep up the good work on the vids!
I've got hubcentric spacers on mine because I couldn't get the rota's I wanted in the offset to suit my widebody. They were made to spec and have been great.
I installed 1.5" spacer on my jeep to get the turning radius back. with a 3.3/4" lift, my 33x12.5 tires rubbed on the frame when turning to far in either direction. the spacers solved the rub and gave it the more aggressive stance I was looking for.
Nicely done; clear explanation and graphics!! Wish I knew of hub-centric 30 yrs ago; I mounted some non-stock wheels w. new tires on an E23 BMW. Wheels had same lug circle dia, but they shook - sometimes a little, sometimes a lot. Had the tire shop re-balance 2x, but never fixed it. They never mentioned hub diameter... The car had tapered lug bolts; even if they 'should' center the wheel it wasn't good enough to be smooth at speed. I always torqued with 2-step or 3-step process. Another spacer benefit is similar to using centering rings. Wheel mfrs can make far fewer variants, which "should" make them less expensive and *might* make it easier to find a replacement for a damaged wheel.
Be careful when mounting wheels on smaller bolt on spacers. The stud can stick out far enough from the spacer and can make contact with the wheel and not sit flush on the hub.
wow you absolutely nailed it! 👌💯👍 the only suggestion I'd add is the installation process. poor installation can lead to failure (i.e. you should always re-torque after the initial 30km drive, and what material the spacers need to be like billet etc.)
Fantastic video man. I need to get spacers so I can run my winter wheels. I really appreciate you taking the time to talk through this and helping me understand.
Very through and professional explanation and while it did make me understand that spacers are not bad, I still think 90%+ of the people running them are only doing it for the looks and with offsets that are negatively affecting their car's handling.
Two thumbs up for the extremely well explained video. Your explanations are even better than most resellers of these products can say. Edit: make one (if you didn't already do) about bolt pattern change. For example i am trying to go from a 4x108 hub to a 4x100 or 4x114.3
Huge fan man I've been subbed since u were taking ur missile 240 (le drift car) to adams and u were on those 4 lug mesh wheels. I love it when you make these informative ass videos that just have shitloads of stuff to learn in them. Your probly the most knowledgable person about drift cars and jdm stuff that I know of man. Keep the up the good content 👍
Awesome job. The only thing you did not mention is proper lug nut tightening, and what could happen if you over torque the studs (like with impact guns)
I really hate hub spacers but you made a good video to show the proper use of them as I have seen too many fail and hope these people will see this educational example of how to use them ! Good work :-)
Some wheel spacers are lug centric, because they are made for Lug centric vehicles. Toyotas Pickups until 1998 where lug centric, In the front you won't be able to fit a hub centric spacer it won't fit. For my Toyota Pick up, I have lug centric spacers on the front and hub centric in the rear(they do fit there).
very informational, guess i got some calculations ahead of me, gonna figure out what spacers i should run if any since my driftcar will be fitted with either 15 or 16 inch burners, or on a trackday with 17 inch semislicks in the rear, so i'll need to dig up some offset numbers.
Great, great video man! I truly had better understanding of wheel spacer. Hub centric FTW. When working on wheels on daily basis, screw all those lug-centric, universal/multi-fit craps. Had co-worker cross threaded stud with those wheels during removal when they were put on by another shop. Cleaning up other ppl's screw up on your dime? F that crap!
I am running non hub centric spacers on my 70 Chevelle and have had no problems so far. The lugs can only fit in the tapered holds on way, you would really have to try to make it off center.
even as shown in the diagram the middle wheel it given more leverage which in turn puts more pressure on the hub the physical point of where the wheel bolts to the car is being changed if F= vertical load on wheel then follow the the path that the energy (from a bump for example) takes from the ground up through to the suspension
Nice video, just small point. There is such a thing as "lug centric" . All my Corvettes have been lug centric. The wheel centers on the lugs not the hub. I have run "shim" type spacers (with extended lugs) that put the wheel well away from the hub with zero issues. Street/autox/track. Up to a little over 1.25 inch to clear brakes, widen track, clear inner liner, etc. Just sayin. Froggy's Garage for videos of this.
Thank you for great informative video. I have 38 mm hub spacers for the rear, but the hubs are slightly to small or thick spacers. I sanded down about 1mm of the inner hub to make it fit my hub perfectly. Also my factory offset +40, however with the new rims and hub spacers it should be -18
this is a great debunking video with loads of valid info. but regarding that DUALI example, when you use a ton of offset at the wheel and the balance it out with huge spacer, that puts the tire exactly under the bearing, arent you still putting more load on the bearing? this is hard for me to grasp and maybe I am wrong.
Hey man, I pretty much just watched the whole Le Drift Car II build all over and I just realized, it seems as if you know exactly what to do at all times. Like you know which wires did what and where they went. How? Does your dad tell you or help out or have you done this before or do you look it up or what? And you just know so much. Anyways keep pumpin out the awesome content man, I know you work your butt off!
HIGH KEY wish i had enough money to be patron to watch these vids earlier, but lowkey don't have any money. so gonna have to settle for waiting for the vids.
Yoo you gotta do more of these videos! I'm pretty clueless about this stuff and you actually explain things pretty good ! Pretty sure the things I know now are because of yoir videos lol also.. dat end scene doeeeeeeee
thanks for the info i was just trying to understand this stuff. my s2000 has a set of Rays g07WT 17x9 63 offset, so some 20mm spacers should have it looking very clean and closer to the fender. luckily now i understand spacers. thanks keep up the quality vids.
One thing to mention is everyone with bolt on spacers should periodically retorque the spacer lug nuts. A long time ago I had a wheel come off and pass me at 60 mph!
I. Learned. A lot. Thank You! My car that i just bought has spacers on it now, and I was trying to figure out what if anything was wrong with it. At least I know what to look for now!
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
*Regarding the comments about the lugs have tapers on them so the wheel will be centered regardless of hub centric or not:*
Yes although the lugs do have tapers to center the wheel and or spacer on the hub, there is a much higher chance of it not being centered when not running a hub centric setup and this is where most the issues of spacers come from. Which is why I suggested to only get hub centric.
*For instance:*
A lot of people bolt on their wheel and hand tighten their lugs to maybe 15 ft/lbs of torque. Then they lower their car on the ground and torque it to spec. If the wheel doesn't have a hub diameter properly matched with the hub diameter on the car then there is a possibility that when lowering the car on the ground and the full weight of the car is applied to the wheel, that the wheel will move off center since the lugs are not fully torqued and are not holding the wheel 100% in place. Then when you go to torque the lugs, you will torque the wheels off center.
Make sense?
So by having it hub centric it eliminates that room for error. And considering the negligible price difference between hub centric spacers and non hub centric it's best to go with a hub centric setup
Thanks :)
Good video good info
OffBeat Garage s
Also depends on if your vehicle uses a hub centric or lug centric hub design. Most vehicles I have seen are hub centric, but some are lug centric!
OffBeat Garage yes and people also tend to ignore the correct two stage tightening process and some of them even tighten the nuts/bolts in a circular manner instead of going 1324 or 142635.
awesome video. more people need to see this.
Need more vids like this so noobs can learn and not be noobs anymore. For future vids maybe talk about tire sizes and grip ratings, brake swaps for 240's, suspension tuning for drift,drag, or road racing..... blah blah blah
AZMarineSniper Tire size and how to increase grip through tires/size and suspension!
AZMarineSniper
Be quiet, noob.
If you tighten in a star pattern gradually you eliminate the need for hubcentric rings. The star patter applies even pressure and will gradually center the wheel
thanks for putting this video together. it really helps illustrate how wheel spacers are intended to be used and what buyers should be looking for when shopping for spacers.
That ending: "I won't let them hurt you ever again"
Very comprehensive video. Thanks alot.
They get a bad rep, because people just want to stance their car with it, and like you explained could be dangerous when not thinking it through.
This video should be referenced in every single car forum.. I'm so sick of answering dumb questions that seem like common sense. great video bro.. keep em comin.
When I installed my 16x8 TE37s on my e30 I run a 5mm, non-hub centric, spacer but it does have the same center bore as my hub. Enough of the hub sticks out past the spacer where I can use my hub centric rings to center my wheels. I did lots of research before purchasing anything. Thanks for this video, I'm sure it'll help a lot of people 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Another thing to note is to make sure the wheels you are running have reliefs cut in the back of the mounting surface for the studs that stick out from bolt on spacers
Thank you so much for encouraging people to do shit properly! So many hacks out there don't consider safety when modifying their car. Like the whole excessive camber thing: you could kill someone driving that shit on the road.
magnetic0314 doing things properly should be getting other wheels and not using spacers at all
I legit didn't want this video to end. Very well informed, thanks for the lesson.
*Brief Table of Contents*
•Reasons people run spacers - 00:30
•Different types of spacers - 03:54
•What to look out for when buying spacers - 10:20
•Addressing arguments against spacers - 12:07
Hands down, this is the most informative spacer video I've ever seen. Also provides examples of people running them. Awesome.
You didn't mention that you can change your bolt pattern with a spacer, to something more cheaply available in you area :)
AN adapter as opposed to just spacer tho
I've had zero balance issues running my lug centric hub spacers on both of my trucks. One truck uses spacers between the dually wheels to prevent tire rub, and my other truck a 2wd, using them to space the rear tires out to fill the wider rear fenders for running staggered size tires. They are tapered the same way lug holes are in most wheels, therefore when torqued properly, they are centered perfectly and have no vibration at any speed..no hub centric rings required. The method I use which is tried and true for decades (and a TSB for some past makes and models of vehicles) is tightening two opposing lugnuts to a low torque, which centers the wheel on the lug studs. Then add the rest of your lug nuts, and torque them to the same setting. Then perform final torque in the proper torque sequence and torque value per your vehicle's manufacturer recommendations. Even if you don't run spacers, this is still a proper method of torquing any wheel, as by starting two opposing lug nuts at a lower torque at first will always bring a non hubcentic wheel into alignment before applying final torque. After 20+ years, and 100's of thousands of miles between all my vehicles at high speeds and high load capacities, I've had nothing but 100% safe and reliable results. Just my .02 and experience as both a military vehicle and aircraft mechanic. Your results may vary.
As a mechanical Engineer, I appreciate that you shared such great information. Good on you for actually doing research and making sure you understood it rather than taking an internet mechanics word. Also was really happy when you mentioned how the clamping friction is how the load is transferred, this let me know that you really did research and found good sources, as this is how I learned it in class and it makes sense.
You are quite intelligent (have watched since the first drift car was bought), and you have always made that obvious with how you choose to approach things.
blindassassin111 the funny thing is clamping friction is the same argument used for why you can get away with not being hubcentric. Glad he recommended remaining hubcentric anyway.
But clamping friction doesn't center wheels so that is a bad argument. Being hubcentric accounts for centering and clamping friction accounts for load, both are needed. On the wheel centers I designed for a small race car, the wheel is hubcentric and doesn't use tapered lugs to aid the centering, but being hubcentric is a necessity for safe mounting.
blindassassin111 I agree with you. Just noting people use that as an argument for hub centric not being necessary....particularly with tapered lug nuts. Those people, the vast majority of cases, are wrong. There are exceptions. But whatever. No reason not to be hubcentric, other than a few specific type wheel exceptions.
I run 20mm spacers on the front of my e36 to clear the control arm for my angle kit at 68 degrees of lock. Never had any problem with them and I've been running them for 2 years in proam. As long as you don't cheap out, you shouldn't have any issues.
Collindoesdrifting what brand are you using?
Nice explanation of topic with worthy arguments. Buddy you are real EDUCATOR and TECHNICAL Person. Keep rolling.
you can gently tighten two opposing lug nuts to "center" the wheels to an extent when using non hub centric spacers. been doing it for years across multiple chassis' with no issue
PlymParkOG you can, but you still have your studs taking the load instead of a nice solid big bit of steel.
given most hub rings are plastic i think it'll be good
The studs are what take all the torque of the drivetrain, so what you said isn't true.The hubcentric rings look pretty pointless imo. If you install your wheel using a star pattern when tightening the lugs you'll have no issue just like what PlymParkOG said, and it's honestly the first thing any mechanic or anyone with general automotive knowledge should know.
Oplet also not true. the friction between the hub surface and inside wheel surface is transferring that load. All the studs are designed to do is hold the two together. Their strength is along their length, under tension.
magnetic0314 its a mix of both. however the centric rings still don't hold any load at all. and they still are pointless unless someone is just using regular hex nuts for their lugs.
omg finally someone who knows that spacers NEED to be HUBCENTRIC great video bro good info
Diogo DaCunha I run non hubcentric spacers on my winter tires. They're fine if you know how to mount them.
Simon G t
Don't need hubcentric spacers if your car or truck has a lugcentric wheel/hub design ;)
fuckcentric lug butts
Merling Stoss show me a oem car that's not hubcentric wheels.
I can't say more. I love how this is explained correctly.
Okay... If you have excessive bearing wear, that means you're offsetting the bearing, causing damage due to the bearing load not on the load areas specified for the bearing(oblique force).
Spacers are not really bad since they allow flexibility, but since they are bolted on, you can expect some losses because of that(a single piece is stronger than multiple parts held together).
Changing the offset of your wheels not only affects load balancing and track width, but also can give you more headroom to fit wider tires that the stock offset cannot.
If *possible*, always get your rims with the correct offset *before* choosing a wheel spacer if you cannot have the proper offset.
And about unsprung weight, increased mass on the wheel due to the offset is basically the same exact thing as a spacer adding mass. The spacer will always have more mass due to the lugs.
Pad height is another term used to explain weither a wheel is low, mid or high pad height. great video by the way.
you definitly good at explaning stuff hands down, im about to buy 2km of spacers XD
great video man. one thing thing that is uncommon is for example there is no protruding hub on the rear of a nissan 280zx. but just have to be paying attention when putting wheels and spacers on.
Wow dude. this video was actually really good, I've just started to look for spacers and now I actually know what to look for. Thanks!
Not all wheels are designed to be hub centric. The Aero/Bassett wheels I run on my hillclimb car are specifically lug-centric and they warn against even trying to balance on a normal wheel/tire balancer that is designed to work on hub-centric wheels.
More of an outlier situation since most alloy wheels are designed to be hub-centric, but something to note.
Keep up the good work on the vids!
I've got hubcentric spacers on mine because I couldn't get the rota's I wanted in the offset to suit my widebody. They were made to spec and have been great.
Excellent video. Very informative. Also, is 1 studd really better than 2?
I installed 1.5" spacer on my jeep to get the turning radius back. with a 3.3/4" lift, my 33x12.5 tires rubbed on the frame when turning to far in either direction. the spacers solved the rub and gave it the more aggressive stance I was looking for.
+Nicholas James There ya go! :)
Dude..! Thank you..! literally one of the best spacer info vids on TH-cam.
Another great video. Love the descriptions with examples. Well spoken and put together. Thank you. Looking forward to the next one.
Nicely done; clear explanation and graphics!!
Wish I knew of hub-centric 30 yrs ago; I mounted some non-stock wheels w. new tires on an E23 BMW. Wheels had same lug circle dia, but they shook - sometimes a little, sometimes a lot. Had the tire shop re-balance 2x, but never fixed it. They never mentioned hub diameter...
The car had tapered lug bolts; even if they 'should' center the wheel it wasn't good enough to be smooth at speed. I always torqued with 2-step or 3-step process.
Another spacer benefit is similar to using centering rings. Wheel mfrs can make far fewer variants, which "should" make them less expensive and *might* make it easier to find a replacement for a damaged wheel.
Be careful when mounting wheels on smaller bolt on spacers. The stud can stick out far enough from the spacer and can make contact with the wheel and not sit flush on the hub.
True
Daniel Alaniz happened to me. had to reorder 35mm spacers. not 25mm.
Yup happened to me and started to drive off then looked in my rear view mirror and my wheel was wobbly scariest moment ever
then you cut the studs????
rocket science
wow you absolutely nailed it! 👌💯👍 the only suggestion I'd add is the installation process. poor installation can lead to failure (i.e. you should always re-torque after the initial 30km drive, and what material the spacers need to be like billet etc.)
Fantastic video man. I need to get spacers so I can run my winter wheels. I really appreciate you taking the time to talk through this and helping me understand.
Very through and professional explanation and while it did make me understand that spacers are not bad, I still think 90%+ of the people running them are only doing it for the looks and with offsets that are negatively affecting their car's handling.
I legit just ordered spacers right before this video went up that's bananas
Two thumbs up for the extremely well explained video. Your explanations are even better than most resellers of these products can say.
Edit: make one (if you didn't already do) about bolt pattern change. For example i am trying to go from a 4x108 hub to a 4x100 or 4x114.3
Holy crap this video was detailed asf. I was lost at first but once I got to the end I really understood it.
one of the best / informed videos ive seen.
Dropped a like.
Huge fan man I've been subbed since u were taking ur missile 240 (le drift car) to adams and u were on those 4 lug mesh wheels. I love it when you make these informative ass videos that just have shitloads of stuff to learn in them. Your probly the most knowledgable person about drift cars and jdm stuff that I know of man. Keep the up the good content 👍
most informative channel! glad you took a break and came back
:)
He is literally one of the most intelligent car enthusiasts I have ever seen.
The best explanation I have come across on you tube
Good job on myth busting the Bearing and stud theories.
Awesome job. The only thing you did not mention is proper lug nut tightening, and what could happen if you over torque the studs (like with impact guns)
Straight and to the point. All angles covered. Great video dude!
+Greg Moulton Thanks :)
I really hate hub spacers but you made a good video to show the proper use of them as I have seen too many fail and hope these people will see this educational example of how to use them ! Good work :-)
Well spoken, smart, detailed. Thanks for answering so many questions.
this gave me the confidence to purchase 25mm eibach pro spacers all around for my new '22 ecoboost
Some wheel spacers are lug centric, because they are made for Lug centric vehicles. Toyotas Pickups until 1998 where lug centric, In the front you won't be able to fit a hub centric spacer it won't fit. For my Toyota Pick up, I have lug centric spacers on the front and hub centric in the rear(they do fit there).
Love spacers with hubs. Well explained.
best detailed explanation on youtube. keep it up. I have a c33 with a s13 sub frame. I'm doing the suspension works first.
Wicked video, I finally have the definitive answer to the wheel spacer dilemma!
I do agree hug centric rings are important, But most lug nuts run a tapered edge that also helps center the bore. Great points though!
love the start of the vid 😂 but still missing the classic off beat intro :(
A well made video man! To the point with lots of necessary detail. Consider teaching others. . .
Best video I have ever seen on wheel spacers, thank you.
awesome Bro! bout to do my suzuki forenza, got lowering spring and now will totally spot on my wheels, thankz my man.
Lot's of great info on spacers! Thanks man!
best spacer vid i seen so far. im watching a shitload b4 i put em on my 05 titan and this is by far best vids presented very well , thanks
any brands you would or would not recommend?
AWESOME VIDEO!!! learned so much in this 16 mins
oh Wow, I was totally convinced that spacers are bad. the offset part made perfect sense!
Appreciate that table of contents man, I be wishing most videos have it, thanks man
Thanks for showing the off sets on the wheels . That made a lot of seance on the spacing Good video !!
Great info young man. Love the science behind it all
The 'built-in' spacer you showed on for example the Riken's, that's called the "backspacing" of the wheels.
You got me subscribed with this one video brother ! I love that calmness.
This is a really good video.. especially you putting an index at the beginning of the video... nicely done.
This is super helpful information I have always thought spacers are just super dangerous and not to use them
Lots of great info...really helped me with my questions and gave concise and clear direction...nice job kid.
very informational, guess i got some calculations ahead of me, gonna figure out what spacers i should run if any since my driftcar will be fitted with either 15 or 16 inch burners, or on a trackday with 17 inch semislicks in the rear, so i'll need to dig up some offset numbers.
Been here for a hot minute keep it up! Can't wait to see the drift vids this season!
Great, great video man! I truly had better understanding of wheel spacer. Hub centric FTW. When working on wheels on daily basis, screw all those lug-centric, universal/multi-fit craps. Had co-worker cross threaded stud with those wheels during removal when they were put on by another shop. Cleaning up other ppl's screw up on your dime? F that crap!
That moment when Offbeat releases a early video. Time to get up lol
What about wheel bearing life? I've heard of them failing faster from spacers. Great video!
4.25" is around 108mm, I know because my car has a 4x108 pattern and in steelies from summit are advertised in 4x4.25 also
also 114.3mm (common Japanese stud pattern) is 4.5 inches
I am running non hub centric spacers on my 70 Chevelle and have had no problems so far. The lugs can only fit in the tapered holds on way, you would really have to try to make it off center.
I actually learned something
even as shown in the diagram the middle wheel it given more leverage which in turn puts more pressure on the hub the physical point of where the wheel bolts to the car is being changed if F= vertical load on wheel then follow the the path that the energy (from a bump for example) takes from the ground up through to the suspension
Thats exactly what the video diagram illustrates.
Nice video, just small point. There is such a thing as "lug centric" . All my Corvettes have been lug centric. The wheel centers on the lugs not the hub. I have run "shim" type spacers (with extended lugs) that put the wheel well away from the hub with zero issues. Street/autox/track. Up to a little over 1.25 inch to clear brakes, widen track, clear inner liner, etc. Just sayin. Froggy's Garage for videos of this.
This is exactly the information I was searching for - thanks so much!
Thank you for great informative video.
I have 38 mm hub spacers for the rear, but the hubs are slightly to small or thick spacers.
I sanded down about 1mm of the inner hub to make it fit my hub perfectly.
Also my factory offset +40, however with the new rims and hub spacers it should be -18
Very informative and visually descriptive with the inserted shots. Great video! Thanks!
this is a great debunking video with loads of valid info. but regarding that DUALI example, when you use a ton of offset at the wheel and the balance it out with huge spacer, that puts the tire exactly under the bearing, arent you still putting more load on the bearing? this is hard for me to grasp and maybe I am wrong.
Hey man, I pretty much just watched the whole Le Drift Car II build all over and I just realized, it seems as if you know exactly what to do at all times. Like you know which wires did what and where they went. How? Does your dad tell you or help out or have you done this before or do you look it up or what? And you just know so much. Anyways keep pumpin out the awesome content man, I know you work your butt off!
I just look everything up on TH-cam or Google and teach myself haha that's it. Thanks man!
Awesome video dude, it really helped me out on to grasping an idea on how spacers work. Keep it up!
Running 2" spacers on my c10 to run late model Camaro wheels. No problems. ;)
HIGH KEY wish i had enough money to be patron to watch these vids earlier, but lowkey don't have any money. so gonna have to settle for waiting for the vids.
you are a great person thanks for the effort that went in this video.
Thank you :)
wow that is one of the best vids i have seen on adapters/spacers ,,maybe the best THANKS !
Yoo you gotta do more of these videos! I'm pretty clueless about this stuff and you actually explain things pretty good ! Pretty sure the things I know now are because of yoir videos lol
also.. dat end scene doeeeeeeee
Hahaa thanks man! I'll definitely do more :)
Hahaha shhhhh
thanks for this video, I had a small idea about the best spacers to use but I learnt a lot from this.
Some tire shops will be hesitant or even refuse to mount wheels/tires to your car if you have spacers.
thanks for the info i was just trying to understand this stuff. my s2000 has a set of Rays g07WT 17x9 63 offset, so some 20mm spacers should have it looking very clean and closer to the fender. luckily now i understand spacers. thanks keep up the quality vids.
One thing to mention is everyone with bolt on spacers should periodically retorque the spacer lug nuts. A long time ago I had a wheel come off and pass me at 60 mph!
The IG live version of this was a lot more angry LOL! I miss those 1am IG live sessions :P
pickatchew $1.5million wheel spacers
TACOS!
Wish I could find those work rezax's in 22s or at least 21" for my charger
Good to see you doin videos again! Greetings from Poland ;) Keep doing good work there :D
great video answered all of the questions i had about wheel spacers
I. Learned. A lot. Thank You! My car that i just bought has spacers on it now, and I was trying to figure out what if anything was wrong with it. At least I know what to look for now!