I am impressed with the care you take in surface preparation and applying finishes to your jobs your customers are getting value from your firm. I would add a curtain, door or freezer type strips to isolate spray room from shop. Finally I would get a pump up back pack garden sprayer and wet floor with water prior to any spraying to keep the major source of dust/particles at minimum. Only other item more costly is more light in finishing areas more light is always welcome. Ray Stormont PS orange peel is usually controlled by air pressure at gun and most shops do not have sufficient sized compressor to provide high enough nozzle pressure to minimize/eliminate this issue i.e. most paints give best /flatest applications at or above 70PSI at nozzle.
Wow! Yes, informative. I've built a lot of things over the years and hate the finish part. But it has to be done so I'm trying to learn how to love it. Just finished a rolling island for the Bride. Recycled lower cabinet from Marketplace. Golden oak. Primed, sanded and first time with a HPLV. I'm encouraged cuz she's so happy. And this video is helping me along. As far as the grain showing through... Water popping the grain is common in cutting boards and such. Would it help doing that using water based finishes? Just a thought. Thank you for your effort. I realize more than most what goes into producing a video like this. It doesn't just jump from the camera to TH-cam.
Just came across your channel ... fantastic! Like the length of the videos and content . I've been building furniture and cabinets for 30 years , keep up the good work .
Awesome info, thank you for sharing. Just came across your channel and very much enjoying the pace, info and style your sharing in. Will be watching many more:) cheers!
Really informative video man thx! I know what you’re talking about with the “fire hose.” I sprayed all the interior trim in my house with the exact same machine after replacing everything and I literally had to make sure nothing was in my way and plan my steps when spraying the crown. You gotta MOVE! I’ve been using Emerald Urethane but I’ll need to give this stuff a try. Is it “cleanable/wipeable” in your opinion when used in say a kitchen? I like your non over complicated way of doing things also. Gives me more confidence. But your work is beautiful and very well done keep up the good work!
Just started watching your channel…very informative and thank you! Can you speak to primer / top coat consumption using airless vs hvlp? I’m seeing more and more use of airless vs hvlp and considering jumping from my Fuji.
Excellent presentation as always Josh. Ill tell you that I am definitely going to switch to Gemini and the x5. Being in this industry and woodworking my whole life has taken a toll on my lungs , and i am young still by todays standards. Great work! I love the inset cabinet.
I've not had any issues with my Fuji, it definitely depends on the paint being used. For primer/sealer I like General Finishes, it sprays really nice. I also have an airless, but like you said elsewhere in the comments, makes no sense for small projects. Great video
Thanks for watching. The panel is floating in the door frame. So after the door is glued up I’m able to adjust it and get it centered. Check out my videos on making cabinet doors.
Have you ever tried spraying clear poly with the x5. I’ve been trying avoid spraying as long as possible but here it is. I haven’t really seen any information about using clear coats. I’m hoping I can use both paint and clear. Any wisdom would be appreciated, thanks
I have an Apollo HVLP that I am learning with. The nozzle/needle sizing is taking some getting used to and can be pricey. With your type of spray system, when you're done, how much paint is in the hose? Can you get it back into the can or is it just lost? And how difficult is it to clean the feed tube/pump/hose out?
Any tips for spraying MDF with water based paint? Having issues with raised grain fibers coming through in my primer coats and final coat. My process; Initial sanding 120, 150, 220. Then 320 in between primer coats. Used Sherwin-Williams primer and their duration. Going to try out Gemini on my next project. Thanks for any advice. Love watching your videos, keep them coming please😬
They are great but when the motor goes out you can really repair them. You basically have to chuck them. However Graco makes an x17 for like spot in-between diy and pro that is more expensive but way more repairable.
You mentioned you could never get rid of the orange peel with the Fuji, I’m assuming you referencing while you were spraying paint with it, did you ever use the Fuji for spraying polyurethane, and if so, what was your experience?
I am still old school in my shop, have just recently started working with Water based mainly clear Ultralux, My question is about texture, I find a bit more texture with water based is it laying out flat for you with that butter feel like Lacquer?
I have definitely been waiting for this video! Now I look forward to the spray room upgrade coming soon. That’s gonna be very nice. I know you’re still tinkering with the Gemini Evo product, but don’t spare the deets! I’m going the same route and want to know as much as possible before trying it out. Love your content. Keep up the good work 🤙🏽
I don't assemble my open cabinets until all of the parts are sprayed (flat). Too many times I have had really bad finishes from the spray bouncing around the inside of the cabinet. Much better to do them before assembly.
Real wood only, handplane only,finish with French polish ....just kidding 😅. What I liked/learned at a custom shop with 10 employees, obviously different with every shop. What I liked. Dolphin glazing putty is easier to sand than bondo, before sanding . Red glazing needs a primer over it. White spackling can be used after primer. In the booth we had 160ft of flat spraying racks. We had multiple 16"X24" carpeted sanding tables. Less moving of material is better...if you have the room. Mesh paper on a Mirka oscillating sander (control board lasts about 2 years). Hand sanding with 3m cubitron paper,when plugged.. simply drag across the carpet or blanket to clean off excess. What I didn't like. Drilling doors for hinges after paint/stain,it's easier to hide runs and other imperfections..also used press-in hinges. Dislikes in the assembly room. Mixing up different sizes of inset on the finished rack,15 5/8 next to 15 23/32 . Drilling hinges in fresh (8 hr old) paint. Likes . Used jigs for top hinge plate height for overlay and inset (inner ff). Thanks for sharing your process! I've scuffed a lot more then painted, but have a little time with an AAA ,hvlp,and an old school cup gun. There is always something to learn! Being intimate with a door, from raw to hanging is simply unbeatable for quality!
Which stroke on the mirka did you have? I have the 5mm I believe on the festool 6” at work and would love to try the Mirka, torn on the 2.5 or 5mm stroke. It will be used to prep for stain finishes mainly…
I am impressed with the care you take in surface preparation and applying finishes to your jobs your customers are getting value from your firm. I would add a curtain, door or freezer type strips to isolate spray room from shop.
Finally I would get a pump up back pack garden sprayer and wet floor with water prior to any spraying to keep the major source of dust/particles at minimum.
Only other item more costly is more light in finishing areas more light is always welcome. Ray Stormont
PS orange peel is usually controlled by air pressure at gun and most shops do not have sufficient sized compressor to provide high enough nozzle pressure to minimize/eliminate this issue i.e. most paints give best /flatest applications at or above 70PSI at nozzle.
Thanks for the feedback.
Great in-depth advice, particularly on your painting techniques! Thanks for your efforts and on-line content!
👍
Wow! Yes, informative. I've built a lot of things over the years and hate the finish part. But it has to be done so I'm trying to learn how to love it. Just finished a rolling island for the Bride. Recycled lower cabinet from Marketplace. Golden oak. Primed, sanded and first time with a HPLV. I'm encouraged cuz she's so happy. And this video is helping me along.
As far as the grain showing through... Water popping the grain is common in cutting boards and such. Would it help doing that using water based finishes? Just a thought. Thank you for your effort. I realize more than most what goes into producing a video like this. It doesn't just jump from the camera to TH-cam.
Just came across your channel ... fantastic! Like the length of the videos and content . I've been building furniture and cabinets for 30 years , keep up the good work .
Awesome!! Thanks for watching 🤙
Awesome info, thank you for sharing. Just came across your channel and very much enjoying the pace, info and style your sharing in. Will be watching many more:) cheers!
Awesome. Thanks for watching
Love this video. Simple, effective, and straight-forward. Thank you for the content!
Thanks for watching 🤙
Just came across your channel, all I can say is you’re a great teacher, great pace and detailed but not too wordy.
Thank you!
Really informative video man thx! I know what you’re talking about with the “fire hose.” I sprayed all the interior trim in my house with the exact same machine after replacing everything and I literally had to make sure nothing was in my way and plan my steps when spraying the crown. You gotta MOVE! I’ve been using Emerald Urethane but I’ll need to give this stuff a try. Is it “cleanable/wipeable” in your opinion when used in say a kitchen? I like your non over complicated way of doing things also. Gives me more confidence. But your work is beautiful and very well done keep up the good work!
Just started watching your channel…very informative and thank you! Can you speak to primer / top coat consumption using airless vs hvlp? I’m seeing more and more use of airless vs hvlp and considering jumping from my Fuji.
Excellent presentation as always Josh. Ill tell you that I am definitely going to switch to Gemini and the x5. Being in this industry and woodworking my whole life has taken a toll on my lungs , and i am young still by todays standards. Great work! I love the inset cabinet.
Thanks man. I think you will like the Gemini
I've not had any issues with my Fuji, it definitely depends on the paint being used. For primer/sealer I like General Finishes, it sprays really nice. I also have an airless, but like you said elsewhere in the comments, makes no sense for small projects. Great video
Yeah I mostly like the airless for larger projects.
Amazing! Great Job and very valuable info
Thanks man!
You may like the RTS400 for the inside of shakers. I love it.
The video is very well made and the knowledge that you share as well that very well made, thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching
I learned a lot watching this video. Thank you 🙏🏾. How do you get that perfect reveal between the panel and the frame ?
Thanks for watching. The panel is floating in the door frame. So after the door is glued up I’m able to adjust it and get it centered. Check out my videos on making cabinet doors.
Have you ever tried spraying clear poly with the x5. I’ve been trying avoid spraying as long as possible but here it is. I haven’t really seen any information about using clear coats. I’m hoping I can use both paint and clear. Any wisdom would be appreciated, thanks
How do you add pigment to get a certain color? A Benjamin Moore color, for example…do you take it to a B. Moore store?
Exactly what I needed - thanks, man!! Quick question: what tip do you use when spraying primer and paint?
311
I have an Apollo HVLP that I am learning with. The nozzle/needle sizing is taking some getting used to and can be pricey.
With your type of spray system, when you're done, how much paint is in the hose? Can you get it back into the can or is it just lost? And how difficult is it to clean the feed tube/pump/hose out?
yeah you can get it back in the can. Airless definitely isn't the best if you're just spraying small projects. That is where HVLP is better
Any tips for spraying MDF with water based paint? Having issues with raised grain fibers coming through in my primer coats and final coat. My process; Initial sanding 120, 150, 220. Then 320 in between primer coats. Used Sherwin-Williams primer and their duration. Going to try out Gemini on my next project. Thanks for any advice.
Love watching your videos, keep them coming please😬
Very light coats. Seems to work good
Man those x5’s are my little work horses. They are the little engines that could with spraying in my opinion.
I totally agree. They are great
They are great but when the motor goes out you can really repair them. You basically have to chuck them. However Graco makes an x17 for like spot in-between diy and pro that is more expensive but way more repairable.
Great video - very helpful. For boxes, you say you leave them in parts, spray, then assemble? If so, are you taping off where glue joints will be?
I do not glue my box parts together. Check out the video on my miter saw station. I go over how I put my boxes together
@@NE_woodworks Interesting. Thanks for the reply. Is your "no glue" assembly still applicable for hanging wall cabinets?
Great video. Going back to the Q5, did you ever thin the paint using that setup?
Yes I did
You mentioned you could never get rid of the orange peel with the Fuji, I’m assuming you referencing while you were spraying paint with it, did you ever use the Fuji for spraying polyurethane, and if so, what was your experience?
Never sprayed poly with it.
Is that one of the soft pads for your festool sander?
How durable is the paint! I always use a cabinet paint that is a very durable paint that is hard to chip!
It’s pretty durable
Favourite Tip sizes? I didn’t hear it mentioned.
Sorry 311… interesting why over a 310?
311
I am still old school in my shop, have just recently started working with Water based mainly clear Ultralux, My question is about texture, I find a bit more texture with water based is it laying out flat for you with that butter feel like Lacquer?
Yeah I am pretty happy with the results of this stuff. Comes out really nice
Nice job and explanation
Thanks
2nd question - what primer do you use?
I talked about it a lot in the video lol. Gemini Evo primer
@@NE_woodworks sorry dude, my 4yr old was in my ear. My bad
Hahaha no worries bro.
Just curious. The X7 is only 20-30 bucks more than the x5. Would you consider the x7 for general cabinet spraying?
I’m sure it would be good too. I didn’t realize is was only that much more
Every thought about out sourcing your doors to speed up production to get a quicker finish date.
I have in the past. But I like to make my own doors
Hey man, got another question for ya, is that paint an enamel, I've just started a cabinet shop doing that style of cabinetry, cheers
It’s a water based lacquer
I have definitely been waiting for this video! Now I look forward to the spray room upgrade coming soon. That’s gonna be very nice.
I know you’re still tinkering with the Gemini Evo product, but don’t spare the deets! I’m going the same route and want to know as much as possible before trying it out. Love your content. Keep up the good work 🤙🏽
Thanks man. Will definitely give updates as I use this stuff more.
Do you clean the gun between runs? I found that the amount of material left in the hose that needed to be cleaned was wasteful
I get most of the paint that is in the hose back in the paint can. Do lose a little bit of
Do you ever have a problem with overspray landing on the other side of the door when spraying flat?
With the water based product not really. When I was spraying solvent yes I would have to deal with that
I don't assemble my open cabinets until all of the parts are sprayed (flat). Too many times I have had really bad finishes from the spray bouncing around the inside of the cabinet. Much better to do them before assembly.
I agree. Much better end result
Do you use the gemini harder? Or just shoot it as a 1k?
Just been using as 1k
What happened to the Mirka?
It broke a while back and haven’t gotten a new one yet. I need to because it’s way better than the Festool in my opinion.
@@NE_woodworks Yea..I’ve been using the festool the last couple weeks at the new shop..I definitely like the Mirka better
Real wood only, handplane only,finish with French polish ....just kidding 😅.
What I liked/learned at a custom shop with 10 employees, obviously different with every shop.
What I liked.
Dolphin glazing putty is easier to sand than bondo, before sanding .
Red glazing needs a primer over it.
White spackling can be used after primer.
In the booth we had 160ft of flat spraying racks.
We had multiple 16"X24" carpeted sanding tables.
Less moving of material is better...if you have the room.
Mesh paper on a Mirka oscillating sander (control board lasts about 2 years).
Hand sanding with 3m cubitron paper,when plugged.. simply drag across the carpet or blanket to clean off excess.
What I didn't like.
Drilling doors for hinges after paint/stain,it's easier to hide runs and other imperfections..also used press-in hinges.
Dislikes in the assembly room.
Mixing up different sizes of inset on the finished rack,15 5/8 next to 15 23/32 .
Drilling hinges in fresh (8 hr old) paint.
Likes .
Used jigs for top hinge plate height for overlay and inset (inner ff).
Thanks for sharing your process!
I've scuffed a lot more then painted, but have a little time with an AAA ,hvlp,and an old school cup gun.
There is always something to learn!
Being intimate with a door, from raw to hanging is simply unbeatable for quality!
Which stroke on the mirka did you have? I have the 5mm I believe on the festool 6” at work and would love to try the Mirka, torn on the 2.5 or 5mm stroke. It will be used to prep for stain finishes mainly…
is that a 1k product?
yes
haha got that primer booger sugar
🤣