This video was so helpful to me! I just got my own L-type Monroe machine on eBay. It definitely needed some work and some new oil inside. Mine is a different model from the one you show, but they are similar enough that I could easily figure out how to take mine apart based on your demo. Now my machine is working perfectly, thanks so much!
Hi Wade, that's great to hear. I always find it easier taking something apart if I've seen someone else do the job first (or at least something similar) rather than just reading an instruction manual or something like that. Hope you have lots of fun using your Monroe.
I have a model K I got in a thrift store, $8 and it works. Gave it a little sewing machine oiled and it works even better. I’ve had so much fun with that thing, running all sorts of complicated calculations. It doesn’t make mistakes but I sure do. I also have an LA5 which I’ve got working manually but if I try the A it starts but doesn’t stop. The calculator mechanism is fairly simple, the motor controls is very complicated.
Hi David, I think maths in general is more fun when you get to play with these old mechanical machines - I'm sure I would have taken more interest in the subject if I'd had a mechanical calculator when I was a kid. You can bet your life that there's a rod or lever or something similar in your LA5 that's sluggish and not closing the motor contacts when it should - probably really simple to fix...IF... you could track it down and actually get to it to free/lubricate it. Maybe one day.......
@@GrumpyTim I put the “clutch yoke” into neutral and plug it in. No motion which is correct. Hit the + bar and it goes into forward. The trouble is it doesn’t stop. Haven’t figured out why. Same with the minus bar. I found the “machine stopping bar” which I can move but it’s stiff. Not sure if it’s supposed to move or just be adjusted. Moving it doesn’t stop the machine. So still figuring it out. I freed the stepped gears which solved the sticking keyboard problem and a few counter wheels were stuck but I fixed that. So the machine calculates just not automatically. The L model I’m pretty confident I could get it working unless someone has broken it beyond repair. Usually it’s just stuck mechanism.
I'll keep my eyes open for an LA5 in case I can figure out what the issue is - you can't have too many calculators can you!!!!! So far, even on the ones that have been broken / had parts missing I've managed to fabricate replacement parts, but it can mean that they sit in the "to do" pile for quite a long time.
Hi Matthew, I tend to go through the same process on must cases - starting with just a damp cloth - it's often surprising how much dirt that will get off. Then sometimes I'll use a bit of methylated spirits if the case is still dirty, but the thing that nearly always does the trick is Peek polish - technically it's a gentle abrasive metal polish but it's great for cleaning cases of machines, and also good on some plastics too. I'll usually finish off with Autoglym car polish to protect the paint but I don't use that every time and any other car polish should do the trick. I wouldn't use the Peek polish on the case if it had one of those crinkle paints because the traces of polish would stay in the texture of the paint, leaving white deposits. Hope that helps - I've been using Peek for years and it's done a great job. If I'm polishing metal I'll quite often start off with a more aggressive polish like Solvol Autosol and then finish off with Peek for a better finish.
Thanks for the reply, I recently acquired the same model to this after successfully repairing and cleaning an ANITA 1011 electronic calculator, so this advice will be useful!
Excellent, you'll really enjoy it - it's one of my favorite machines to use. The only thing that takes a little getting used to is the fact that the park position for the crank handle is at the top whereas on all the other mechanical calculators I've used, the park position is at the bottom. I've always fancied one of those Anita's but they're a bit out of my price range at the moment.
Well I had one day a calculator which was entirely stuck and gunk up. So I removed the case and showered the entire thing with window-cleaner fluid. Then it was showered with water and dryed. After that I gave it a shower with fresh oil and wiped it down. The machine works nicely today.
how did you remove the circule under the carriage. Love your video. I have the same calculator and I'm trying to fix it. I just have on problem the carriage resets to one and not in zero. it would be if you could help. Thanks for the video
Hi Angel Fernando, when you say the circule, are you referring to the circlip, also known as a "C" clip or an "E" clip? Assuming that you are, we'll call it an "E" clip for now because it is somewhat like the shape of a letter "E" although somewhat more curved. It sits in a groove on the shaft, and the two outer legs grip the shaft. To remove one of these you want it pointing outwards, with the legs of the "E" pointing away from you, then insert a small screwdriver into the gap between the shaft and the side of the "E" clip that's nearest to you and gently prize it off. BUT, and this is very important, you need to put a finger from your other hand over the spring clip so that when it releases from the shaft, your finger stops it flying off round the room - you'd be amazed how many people have had these little clips fly off, never to be seen again. As for the numbers resetting to one rather than zero, firstly, once you've got the carriage off, check that all the number wheels are moving freely (you can use your finger to move them once the carriage is off). If they are all free, there should be a bar that moves as you crank the clearing handle, this has little fingers that catch on a post on the side of each number wheel to stop it in the correct place. If this bar isn't moving as it should be, or it's damaged, or the number wheels have lost their posts, then the wheels won't reset correctly. I would take the carriage off first and then you can examine it properly. Let me know how you get on.
I have one of these which I have recently brought back to life (in fact I now have two of them). One of the fold down legs is lose on the shaft, any idea how to remove the pins from the shaft they pivot on (I believe they are taper pins) so I can remove them to see what the problem is?
Hi alanesq, yes, they are taper pins if I remember correctly. My pretty standard method for removing taper pins is to find a drift/punch just a tiny bit smaller than the diameter of the pin - if it's too small it may well bend, and if it's too big, it will either get stuck in the hole as you drive the pin out, or it will damage the hole itself, making it more tricky to re insert the pin. I tend to have a lot of drifts and punches around but if I don't have one of the correct size, I'll either slightly sacrifice a bigger one and grind it smaller or make one from scratch - old bolts can be ground down to make drifts. Once you have a suitable drift, locate the tinner end of the taper pin and support the opposite end of the leg on a slightly opened vice - this allows the pin to pass through the gap as it comes out. Then use a hammer to tap the drift and the pin should come out - small ones like that don't usually require much force. You might find that you need 6 hands to hold the calculator, the vice, the hammer and the drift!! Assuming you get it out out, you shouldn't need the drift to put the pin back in, just tap it back in from the fatter end of the pin until it's seated - again, you shouldn't need to hit it hard.
I've recently got hold of this exact model, and it's in need of some TLC. I need to get under the keyboard to free up some sticking levers. How do the key caps come off?
Hi Moogthedog, if you need to remove the key tops they are just a tight friction fit onto the metal post - there is always a risk that the key tops could break as you remove them so I'll always attempt to free up seized parts without removing them if I can. If you take a quick look at my Lagomarsino 9203 refurbishment Part One about 6 minutes in: th-cam.com/video/IPUle5SmYgg/w-d-xo.html You'll see the very crude tool I made for removing the keys on that machine - the method would be the same for the Monroe. I knew before I started removing the key tops on the Lagomarsino that I'd need to replace some or all of the keys so I wasn't too distressed when many of them broke on removal. It's worth pointing out that making 100 replacement key tops took ages so if you did happen to think about that, be warned!!!! Hope you get on ok, the Monroe is a lovely machine once it's running.
@GrumpyTim Thanks for the quick response. I've only had the most basic look under the hood at the moment, but this video has already been invaluable. I'll get it right out of its case and see what I can reach - if I can resolve the issue without removing the keys that'll be a bonus. You're right about it being an addictive pursuit - I've also got a working Brunsviga and Facit. I never get bored of making numbers go click. :-)
Excellent, they really ARE quite addictive - maths was never this much fun when I was at school but having the numbers literally crunch before your eyes is really satisfying. Just ask if you have any problems with the Monroe, but hopefully you'll be able to deduce the things that aren't doing what they should and free them up accordingly. :-)
They become somewhat addictive once you start looking at them. It's interesting to see how the different manufacturers achieve the same results in slightly different ways.
Hi Mert, the Monroe belongs to a friend - I repaired it for them and made the two videos while I was doing it - I think they paid around 40 or 50 pounds sterling for it. Prices for these seem to vary a lot - I've seen people asking far more for them on ebay. It's a lovely machine, really fun to use - probably one of my favourite hand cranked calculators.
![F.HERO Ft. JSPKK x ลำไย ไหทองคำ x M-PEE - ไม่สนิทบิดหมด (Thai Riders Anthem) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kPJZ0UihBfk/mqdefault.jpg)
This video was so helpful to me! I just got my own L-type Monroe machine on eBay. It definitely needed some work and some new oil inside. Mine is a different model from the one you show, but they are similar enough that I could easily figure out how to take mine apart based on your demo. Now my machine is working perfectly, thanks so much!
Hi Wade, that's great to hear. I always find it easier taking something apart if I've seen someone else do the job first (or at least something similar) rather than just reading an instruction manual or something like that. Hope you have lots of fun using your Monroe.
I have a model K I got in a thrift store, $8 and it works. Gave it a little sewing machine oiled and it works even better. I’ve had so much fun with that thing, running all sorts of complicated calculations. It doesn’t make mistakes but I sure do. I also have an LA5 which I’ve got working manually but if I try the A it starts but doesn’t stop. The calculator mechanism is fairly simple, the motor controls is very complicated.
Hi David, I think maths in general is more fun when you get to play with these old mechanical machines - I'm sure I would have taken more interest in the subject if I'd had a mechanical calculator when I was a kid.
You can bet your life that there's a rod or lever or something similar in your LA5 that's sluggish and not closing the motor contacts when it should - probably really simple to fix...IF... you could track it down and actually get to it to free/lubricate it. Maybe one day.......
@@GrumpyTim I put the “clutch yoke” into neutral and plug it in. No motion which is correct. Hit the + bar and it goes into forward. The trouble is it doesn’t stop. Haven’t figured out why. Same with the minus bar. I found the “machine stopping bar” which I can move but it’s stiff. Not sure if it’s supposed to move or just be adjusted. Moving it doesn’t stop the machine. So still figuring it out. I freed the stepped gears which solved the sticking keyboard problem and a few counter wheels were stuck but I fixed that. So the machine calculates just not automatically. The L model I’m pretty confident I could get it working unless someone has broken it beyond repair. Usually it’s just stuck mechanism.
I'll keep my eyes open for an LA5 in case I can figure out what the issue is - you can't have too many calculators can you!!!!!
So far, even on the ones that have been broken / had parts missing I've managed to fabricate replacement parts, but it can mean that they sit in the "to do" pile for quite a long time.
May I ask what you used to clean the casing on machines like this? Just soapy water or was IPA suitable here?
Hi Matthew, I tend to go through the same process on must cases - starting with just a damp cloth - it's often surprising how much dirt that will get off.
Then sometimes I'll use a bit of methylated spirits if the case is still dirty, but the thing that nearly always does the trick is Peek polish - technically it's a gentle abrasive metal polish but it's great for cleaning cases of machines, and also good on some plastics too. I'll usually finish off with Autoglym car polish to protect the paint but I don't use that every time and any other car polish should do the trick.
I wouldn't use the Peek polish on the case if it had one of those crinkle paints because the traces of polish would stay in the texture of the paint, leaving white deposits.
Hope that helps - I've been using Peek for years and it's done a great job. If I'm polishing metal I'll quite often start off with a more aggressive polish like Solvol Autosol and then finish off with Peek for a better finish.
Thanks for the reply, I recently acquired the same model to this after successfully repairing and cleaning an ANITA 1011 electronic calculator, so this advice will be useful!
Excellent, you'll really enjoy it - it's one of my favorite machines to use. The only thing that takes a little getting used to is the fact that the park position for the crank handle is at the top whereas on all the other mechanical calculators I've used, the park position is at the bottom.
I've always fancied one of those Anita's but they're a bit out of my price range at the moment.
Well I had one day a calculator which was entirely stuck and gunk up. So I removed the case and showered the entire thing with window-cleaner fluid. Then it was showered with water and dryed. After that I gave it a shower with fresh oil and wiped it down. The machine works nicely today.
The method is a little unorthodox Paul, but it worked and it so who am I to criticise. Excellent job, that's another one rescued.
how did you remove the circule under the carriage. Love your video. I have the same calculator and I'm trying to fix it. I just have on problem the carriage resets to one and not in zero. it would be if you could help. Thanks for the video
Hi Angel Fernando, when you say the circule, are you referring to the circlip, also known as a "C" clip or an "E" clip? Assuming that you are, we'll call it an "E" clip for now because it is somewhat like the shape of a letter "E" although somewhat more curved. It sits in a groove on the shaft, and the two outer legs grip the shaft. To remove one of these you want it pointing outwards, with the legs of the "E" pointing away from you, then insert a small screwdriver into the gap between the shaft and the side of the "E" clip that's nearest to you and gently prize it off. BUT, and this is very important, you need to put a finger from your other hand over the spring clip so that when it releases from the shaft, your finger stops it flying off round the room - you'd be amazed how many people have had these little clips fly off, never to be seen again.
As for the numbers resetting to one rather than zero, firstly, once you've got the carriage off, check that all the number wheels are moving freely (you can use your finger to move them once the carriage is off). If they are all free, there should be a bar that moves as you crank the clearing handle, this has little fingers that catch on a post on the side of each number wheel to stop it in the correct place. If this bar isn't moving as it should be, or it's damaged, or the number wheels have lost their posts, then the wheels won't reset correctly.
I would take the carriage off first and then you can examine it properly.
Let me know how you get on.
@@GrumpyTim I appreciate the quick response. I'm going to take a look at it this afternoon. Thank you so much.
I have one of these which I have recently brought back to life (in fact I now have two of them). One of the fold down legs is lose on the shaft, any idea how to remove the pins from the shaft they pivot on (I believe they are taper pins) so I can remove them to see what the problem is?
Hi alanesq, yes, they are taper pins if I remember correctly. My pretty standard method for removing taper pins is to find a drift/punch just a tiny bit smaller than the diameter of the pin - if it's too small it may well bend, and if it's too big, it will either get stuck in the hole as you drive the pin out, or it will damage the hole itself, making it more tricky to re insert the pin. I tend to have a lot of drifts and punches around but if I don't have one of the correct size, I'll either slightly sacrifice a bigger one and grind it smaller or make one from scratch - old bolts can be ground down to make drifts. Once you have a suitable drift, locate the tinner end of the taper pin and support the opposite end of the leg on a slightly opened vice - this allows the pin to pass through the gap as it comes out. Then use a hammer to tap the drift and the pin should come out - small ones like that don't usually require much force. You might find that you need 6 hands to hold the calculator, the vice, the hammer and the drift!! Assuming you get it out out, you shouldn't need the drift to put the pin back in, just tap it back in from the fatter end of the pin until it's seated - again, you shouldn't need to hit it hard.
@@GrumpyTim Thanks very much for the reply. I will give it a try.
I've recently got hold of this exact model, and it's in need of some TLC. I need to get under the keyboard to free up some sticking levers. How do the key caps come off?
Hi Moogthedog, if you need to remove the key tops they are just a tight friction fit onto the metal post - there is always a risk that the key tops could break as you remove them so I'll always attempt to free up seized parts without removing them if I can. If you take a quick look at my Lagomarsino 9203 refurbishment Part One about 6 minutes in: th-cam.com/video/IPUle5SmYgg/w-d-xo.html You'll see the very crude tool I made for removing the keys on that machine - the method would be the same for the Monroe. I knew before I started removing the key tops on the Lagomarsino that I'd need to replace some or all of the keys so I wasn't too distressed when many of them broke on removal. It's worth pointing out that making 100 replacement key tops took ages so if you did happen to think about that, be warned!!!!
Hope you get on ok, the Monroe is a lovely machine once it's running.
@GrumpyTim Thanks for the quick response. I've only had the most basic look under the hood at the moment, but this video has already been invaluable. I'll get it right out of its case and see what I can reach - if I can resolve the issue without removing the keys that'll be a bonus.
You're right about it being an addictive pursuit - I've also got a working Brunsviga and Facit. I never get bored of making numbers go click. :-)
Excellent, they really ARE quite addictive - maths was never this much fun when I was at school but having the numbers literally crunch before your eyes is really satisfying.
Just ask if you have any problems with the Monroe, but hopefully you'll be able to deduce the things that aren't doing what they should and free them up accordingly. :-)
Interesting machine. Many thanks.
They become somewhat addictive once you start looking at them. It's interesting to see how the different manufacturers achieve the same results in slightly different ways.
@@GrumpyTim I can see that.
Thanks brother
Cheers, they are really fascinating machines - there will be more to come in the future too.
for how much did you buy this?
Hi Mert, the Monroe belongs to a friend - I repaired it for them and made the two videos while I was doing it - I think they paid around 40 or 50 pounds sterling for it. Prices for these seem to vary a lot - I've seen people asking far more for them on ebay. It's a lovely machine, really fun to use - probably one of my favourite hand cranked calculators.