IMPORTANT!!! Ive been riding DIY for 18 years. Thru that time there have been 3 occurrences where my throttle cable was damaged and put 100% power thru the motor. If the black wire of your throttle cable gets disconnected it will send full power thru. THIS is why you need break cut offs.
I have had this happen to me, I am so good with bikes that I press my brakes (hydraulic ones) the motor was sending power still, I got off my bike I let go of the back break lifted my front wheel up so my back wheel can move freely, turned of my battery and disconnected my throttle, no issues at all. It was on busy road u just need to know what you are doing and it's completely fine.
Brake cutoff sensors seem like a no-brainer to me. Only restriction is that when they aren't well placed sometimes your motor can cut-off even if you are not trying to brake. For instance, I like to rest my hands on the brakes to be ready for any unexpected events but the brake sensors can be a bit over sensitive sometimes and cutoff just from the tiniest pressure.
On mountain bike trails it is a common technique, even on non-ebikes, to modulate brakes while pedaling. Often during an uphill corner with technical features. Pedaling with the brake(s) lets you keep in the cadence range you may need to avoid pedal strikes/etc with controlled speed. With an eMTB it also helps keep the motor spooled up in the rev range to accelerate out of such turns and/or tech sections. Obviously only talking about torque sensing. Cadence sensing should absolutely have brake/shift cutoffs.
I like brake cut off sensors , I don't need gear shift sensors since I cut power during shifts using very light brake levers with some play , the way I shift I always cut power , I do understand the need for gear shift sensors but I never have a problem not having them since I shift using the brake lever like a clutch. I don't engage the brakes fully there is enough play in the lever that it works like a clutch in a manual transmission. It's quite tricky I guess for most riders but it works great for me. I think if I ran a mid-drive shop like yourself I would definitely recommenced gear shift sensors or even install them as a standard , but in my unique riding style I don't like gear shift sensors.
I just ordered a cyc photon in australia with the brake sensors because you said you had them on your personal build and that recommendation was good enough for me. I dont want to accidentally take off at a traffic light and get collected by a truck.
Bikes with Candace basic PAS, brake cutoff are needed 100%. Torque sensing PAS not as necessary. However by installing a button switch to the brake cutoffs controller connection, I use a "light switch" on the handle bar, .you can use it for emergency or anti-theft as the motor wouldn't start until you turn the switch off. Just my 2 cents,
Yes sir , I don't like gear shift sensors , but I also use my brakes like a clutch. I have enough play in my brakes that I can lightly pull the brakes and not engage the actual brakes but it will cut power off to the motor then I shift gears. Gear shift sensors that I've used don't always have that precise cut-off that I like . I prefer manual control using brake cut off.
I was going to make the same comment. If you have the brake cut-off switch setup so it responds to a light touch you can squeeze it slightly when changing gears so it doesn't stress the drive train.
My first DIY build(Bafang BBSHD) I skipped installing the brake cut off. It only took one accident to make me add them on while nursing a very skinned up elbow.
It's pretty simple IMO- ask the question "When you drive a car, have you ever felt the desire to press on both the accelerator and the brake at the same time? Ultimately, data will identify those people. If you've paid money to go to a driving school, this is going to be one of the first habits they break you out of.
I disconnected mine on my BBSHD. I couldn't find a spot on my Tektro Hydraulics to mount the magnet and have it work consistently. One little bump and they would disconnect and shut off the motor. I dont even notice they're gone. Just dont pedal when you want to stop. Pretty Simple.
I accidentally pressed the throttle while walking my bike to park it, and my bike took off towards a lady. After 9 months of owning this ebike, nothing like this ever happened, but there is always a first time. I didn't have my brake cut-off switches mounted yet, and even though I was pressing the brakes, the ebike was surging forward. It was a very dangerous situation.
I use the brake cut off in the left lever only, I slightly squeeze the lever when I shift. It's mechanical brake. Plus never know when the motor goes out of control
I’m on a commuter cadence hub and won’t ride without these. When I’m on a twisty path and working hard in the turns, you can lightly hold tap the brake and keep pedaling hard and stay on the right side of the road.
Love the channel! Just finished watching a bunch of 2y old tutorials. I have a question: Which material is best to cover up the battery and middle motor (while driving)? It's raining a lot and streets are often dirty, I need something that protects the parts from water and dirt and doesn't make the motor explode haha
meh . i used to think so . i love it on regen braking bikes but never miss it now on bbs bikes personally . Shift sensor tho ? heck yes . i like my chains and cogs ⚡⚡ . if my rig gets squirrely like start trying to run away while i'm walking it becasue i bumped the pedal , i hit the shifter and that stops all the squirls 🐿
Not me I prefer brake cut sensors over gear shift sensor. If you have enough play in the brake lever to where it doesn't engage the brakes with a light pull it acts like a clutch where you can cut power and then shift. Since I shift so fast sometimes having better reaction times using the brake lever manually works better for me. Plus having brakes cut off power means you're engaged in stopping the bike two ways , by actual brakes and cutting off power to the motor. It's a win-win for me. Gear shift sensors are for novice e-bike riders IMO who throw chains and shift into high gears up hill or who can't comprehend the difference between hub motors. "But my bike has gears it uses gears!!!" - Boomer hub drive pedego owner If you time it right like a clutch a brake cut off is so much more smoother.
Luna Cycles told me I could do without them but now that I have an ebike I see that they're a must. It was tricky epoxying the sensors to the hydraulic brake levers. Next time I'll get levers with the sensors built in. I am a very experienced bicyclist and motorcyclist.
Brake cut off sensors should be mandatory on every e-bike. At the very least. Now I can argue why I don't need or like gear shift sensors but brake cut off sensors are a minimum for me. Inexperienced riders may shred a cassette shifting under load up a hill with full power and then they complain the chain is popping off. Mid-drives definitely require a measure of skill to ride.
@@TheAgentAssassin I have mid and hub drives. I can't say I like the cut off sensor on the mid drive and for street riding I can't say the mid drive is better. With the hub drive shifting is simpler and the drivetrain is far less stressed.
@@georgekrpan3181 The hub drive DOES NOT use your bicycles' gears. They work 100% independent of the components used to pedal a bike forward such as your drivetrain, front chain ring and cassette. In any gear on your bicycles drivetrain the rear hub motor will perform exactly the same. Essentially you have a 1 speed gear box on a hub drive bicycle. Mid drive motors delivers power to the wheels through the drivetrain , utilizing every gear on your bike to propel the bike forward. As many gears you have on your bike , the mid-drive will benefit and use every gear on your bicycle to propel the bike forward.
@@TheAgentAssassin I was thoroughly convinced the mid drive was better until I got a hub drive. Now I ride the hub drive all the time and the mid drive sits in the garage. To make it's power the mid drive motor has to spin fast. Some say a 1:1 chainring to rear cog ratio is ideal. At that ratio it's merely a scooter, pedaling is useless. That's OK if that's what you like. I don't, I'd rather throttle the bike with the pedals. My hub motor bike as a 52t chainring, 11-28 cassette, and 26x3" tires. Even at 30 mph I can still pedal meaningfully.
Im confused do you mean with pedal assist? I hope on my CS20 i can turn off pedal assist... the pedals are only there for the legal reasons. I want to disable my cut offs so i can also wheelie and etc tricks. Havent got the bike yet but hopefully soon its on the boat from China.
I needed to replace the Bafang brake levers, because with my V Brakes the Bafang lever hit the handle grip not giving me enough friction on the rim. SHIMANO Sora R3000 Flat bar Brake levers will work much better (I think). I got the cut off kit for hydraulic disk brakes from Johnny N.O. but don't know how to install it. Is there a video?
You already have to think about the power level you have selected. You have to think about the gear you are in. You have to think about the traffic, the road, the signals, ecc... Yes, you can do it without the cut off. But that's another thing that you have to think about.
I been cycling all my life (part of being Dutch) and the only time I put force on the pedals and break at the same time is when I am stopped and ready to get going again. That said no power and no movement are two entirely different things as I often will move my legs still to get into a nice position to put power down again post the slowdown period. Meaning if you have a PAS system than yeah you most certainly want to do that, torque sensing not really as you are not putting any power in just rotating to a point. Anyhow that is my thinking from being put on a bike from the moment you start walking.
More to the point, at least for my application, can the cut-off switches somehow be made into BRAKELIGHT SWITCHES? Also, how does one SAFELY wire-in a taillight in the first place? I currently am playing with a "Speedrid" fat tire E-bike, which appears to be made by Ancheer.
Magura sales an "inline" hydraulic brake pressure switch. I recommend using one rather than brake lever switches for hydraulic brakes. Also perfect for a brake operated tail light. Hydraulic brake lever cutoff reed switch issues are some of the most frequent problems I encounter in our facebook forums. Avoid them..
100% you need cutoff sensors .But for hydrolic brake levers ,The stick on magnet sensors for sale everywhere are TOTALLY USELESS, I have no idea why they dont just make retro fittable pressure switches . I had to make my own using polymorph plastic .they work fine
we need a better solution for hidraulic brake sensors. Because they are too sensitive. If you accidentally move them 1mm your motor cut offs and impacts negatively your ride. I got rid of 1 sensor and now are thinking about getting rid of second because now it cuts of randomly on a bumpy road.
I was wheeling my switched on bike down a steep curb, didn't notice it had knocked the chain off so the pedals spun round which engaged the motor unexpectedly - the bike shot out of my hand across the road and hit the wheel of a parked car. Bent my forks, no damage to the car.
Want ask you about my problem on my ebike ok. Its a kina bike 1000w bafang mtb. My problems is gear to hard do iam living in Åre Sweden whid big up hill. And my problem is pedal hits rock when iam driving offpist. Thanks for you tips so far
@@MikhaelBattaglia ok how do i know what Wheel to fit or casset? And how i know what arm to buy shorter? I meen were or what i check so orders will fit. Big thanks for answer
Hydro cut offs suck and nobody domestic sells just the hydro brake levers with the cutoffs built in. I ordered some and I'm waiting 2 weeks for some NFOX levers to come from china. No good way to mount the hydro magnets on shimano mb200 brake levers.
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IMPORTANT!!!
Ive been riding DIY for 18 years. Thru that time there have been 3 occurrences where my throttle cable was damaged and put 100% power thru the motor. If the black wire of your throttle cable gets disconnected it will send full power thru. THIS is why you need break cut offs.
I have had this happen to me, I am so good with bikes that I press my brakes (hydraulic ones) the motor was sending power still, I got off my bike I let go of the back break lifted my front wheel up so my back wheel can move freely, turned of my battery and disconnected my throttle, no issues at all. It was on busy road u just need to know what you are doing and it's completely fine.
Brake cutoff sensors seem like a no-brainer to me. Only restriction is that when they aren't well placed sometimes your motor can cut-off even if you are not trying to brake. For instance, I like to rest my hands on the brakes to be ready for any unexpected events but the brake sensors can be a bit over sensitive sometimes and cutoff just from the tiniest pressure.
Brake cut off has 4 purposes. Cut off the motor. Activate the e-brake and regenerative braking. Deengaging the cruise control.
On mountain bike trails it is a common technique, even on non-ebikes, to modulate brakes while pedaling. Often during an uphill corner with technical features. Pedaling with the brake(s) lets you keep in the cadence range you may need to avoid pedal strikes/etc with controlled speed. With an eMTB it also helps keep the motor spooled up in the rev range to accelerate out of such turns and/or tech sections.
Obviously only talking about torque sensing. Cadence sensing should absolutely have brake/shift cutoffs.
I like brake cut off sensors , I don't need gear shift sensors since I cut power during shifts using very light brake levers with some play , the way I shift I always cut power , I do understand the need for gear shift sensors but I never have a problem not having them since I shift using the brake lever like a clutch. I don't engage the brakes fully there is enough play in the lever that it works like a clutch in a manual transmission. It's quite tricky I guess for most riders but it works great for me.
I think if I ran a mid-drive shop like yourself I would definitely recommenced gear shift sensors or even install them as a standard , but in my unique riding style I don't like gear shift sensors.
I just ordered a cyc photon in australia with the brake sensors because you said you had them on your personal build and that recommendation was good enough for me. I dont want to accidentally take off at a traffic light and get collected by a truck.
Bikes with Candace basic PAS, brake cutoff are needed 100%. Torque sensing PAS not as necessary. However by installing a button switch to the brake cutoffs controller connection, I use a "light switch" on the handle bar, .you can use it for emergency or anti-theft as the motor wouldn't start until you turn the switch off. Just my 2 cents,
I use the brake cut off kinda like a clutch for sifting gears because I didn't get the shifter cut off sensor that didn't came with the kit.
Yes sir , I don't like gear shift sensors , but I also use my brakes like a clutch. I have enough play in my brakes that I can lightly pull the brakes and not engage the actual brakes but it will cut power off to the motor then I shift gears.
Gear shift sensors that I've used don't always have that precise cut-off that I like . I prefer manual control using brake cut off.
I was going to make the same comment. If you have the brake cut-off switch setup so it responds to a light touch you can squeeze it slightly when changing gears so it doesn't stress the drive train.
@@stevo184 Same here!
My first DIY build(Bafang BBSHD) I skipped installing the brake cut off. It only took one accident to make me add them on while nursing a very skinned up elbow.
On my custom ebike I made with hydraulic brakes I have a cut off lever safety first 😊
It's pretty simple IMO- ask the question "When you drive a car, have you ever felt the desire to press on both the accelerator and the brake at the same time? Ultimately, data will identify those people. If you've paid money to go to a driving school, this is going to be one of the first habits they break you out of.
Haha, good point!
I disconnected mine on my BBSHD. I couldn't find a spot on my Tektro Hydraulics to mount the magnet and have it work consistently. One little bump and they would disconnect and shut off the motor. I dont even notice they're gone. Just dont pedal when you want to stop. Pretty Simple.
I accidentally pressed the throttle while walking my bike to park it, and my bike took off towards a lady. After 9 months of owning this ebike, nothing like this ever happened, but there is always a first time.
I didn't have my brake cut-off switches mounted yet, and even though I was pressing the brakes, the ebike was surging forward. It was a very dangerous situation.
I use the brake cut off in the left lever only, I slightly squeeze the lever when I shift. It's mechanical brake. Plus never know when the motor goes out of control
So would you suggest brake cut-offs or not? 🙂
YES 100%
Definitely
I’m on a commuter cadence hub and won’t ride without these. When I’m on a twisty path and working hard in the turns, you can lightly hold tap the brake and keep pedaling hard and stay on the right side of the road.
Love the channel! Just finished watching a bunch of 2y old tutorials.
I have a question: Which material is best to cover up the battery and middle motor (while driving)? It's raining a lot and streets are often dirty, I need something that protects the parts from water and dirt and doesn't make the motor explode haha
meh . i used to think so . i love it on regen braking bikes but never miss it now on bbs bikes personally . Shift sensor tho ? heck yes . i like my chains and cogs ⚡⚡ . if my rig gets squirrely like start trying to run away while i'm walking it becasue i bumped the pedal , i hit the shifter and that stops all the squirls 🐿
Not me I prefer brake cut sensors over gear shift sensor. If you have enough play in the brake lever to where it doesn't engage the brakes with a light pull it acts like a clutch where you can cut power and then shift. Since I shift so fast sometimes having better reaction times using the brake lever manually works better for me.
Plus having brakes cut off power means you're engaged in stopping the bike two ways , by actual brakes and cutting off power to the motor.
It's a win-win for me.
Gear shift sensors are for novice e-bike riders IMO who throw chains and shift into high gears up hill or who can't comprehend the difference between hub motors.
"But my bike has gears it uses gears!!!" - Boomer hub drive pedego owner
If you time it right like a clutch a brake cut off is so much more smoother.
Luna Cycles told me I could do without them but now that I have an ebike I see that they're a must. It was tricky epoxying the sensors to the hydraulic brake levers. Next time I'll get levers with the sensors built in. I am a very experienced bicyclist and motorcyclist.
Brake cut off sensors should be mandatory on every e-bike. At the very least.
Now I can argue why I don't need or like gear shift sensors but brake cut off sensors are a minimum for me.
Inexperienced riders may shred a cassette shifting under load up a hill with full power and then they complain the chain is popping off.
Mid-drives definitely require a measure of skill to ride.
@@TheAgentAssassin I have mid and hub drives. I can't say I like the cut off sensor on the mid drive and for street riding I can't say the mid drive is better. With the hub drive shifting is simpler and the drivetrain is far less stressed.
@@georgekrpan3181
The hub drive DOES NOT use your bicycles' gears. They work 100% independent of the components used to pedal a bike forward such as your drivetrain, front chain ring and cassette.
In any gear on your bicycles drivetrain the rear hub motor will perform exactly the same.
Essentially you have a 1 speed gear box on a hub drive bicycle.
Mid drive motors delivers power to the wheels through the drivetrain , utilizing every gear on your bike to propel the bike forward.
As many gears you have on your bike , the mid-drive will benefit and use every gear on your bicycle to propel the bike forward.
@@TheAgentAssassin I was thoroughly convinced the mid drive was better until I got a hub drive. Now I ride the hub drive all the time and the mid drive sits in the garage. To make it's power the mid drive motor has to spin fast. Some say a 1:1 chainring to rear cog ratio is ideal. At that ratio it's merely a scooter, pedaling is useless. That's OK if that's what you like. I don't, I'd rather throttle the bike with the pedals. My hub motor bike as a 52t chainring, 11-28 cassette, and 26x3" tires. Even at 30 mph I can still pedal meaningfully.
Im confused do you mean with pedal assist? I hope on my CS20 i can turn off pedal assist... the pedals are only there for the legal reasons. I want to disable my cut offs so i can also wheelie and etc tricks. Havent got the bike yet but hopefully soon its on the boat from China.
I needed to replace the Bafang brake levers, because with my V Brakes the Bafang lever hit the handle grip not giving me enough friction on the rim. SHIMANO Sora R3000 Flat bar Brake levers will work much better (I think). I got the cut off kit for hydraulic disk brakes from Johnny N.O. but don't know how to install it. Is there a video?
I found a good video on installation: th-cam.com/video/yW9kRMwFPrY/w-d-xo.html
You already have to think about the power level you have selected. You have to think about the gear you are in. You have to think about the traffic, the road, the signals, ecc... Yes, you can do it without the cut off. But that's another thing that you have to think about.
I been cycling all my life (part of being Dutch) and the only time I put force on the pedals and break at the same time is when I am stopped and ready to get going again. That said no power and no movement are two entirely different things as I often will move my legs still to get into a nice position to put power down again post the slowdown period. Meaning if you have a PAS system than yeah you most certainly want to do that, torque sensing not really as you are not putting any power in just rotating to a point. Anyhow that is my thinking from being put on a bike from the moment you start walking.
More to the point, at least for my application, can the cut-off switches somehow be made into BRAKELIGHT SWITCHES?
Also, how does one SAFELY wire-in a taillight in the first place? I currently am playing with a "Speedrid" fat tire E-bike, which appears to be made by Ancheer.
Magura sales an "inline" hydraulic brake pressure switch. I recommend using one rather than brake lever switches for hydraulic brakes. Also perfect for a brake operated tail light.
Hydraulic brake lever cutoff reed switch issues are some of the most frequent problems I encounter in our facebook forums. Avoid them..
100% you need cutoff sensors .But for hydrolic brake levers ,The stick on magnet sensors for sale everywhere are TOTALLY USELESS, I have no idea why they dont just make retro fittable pressure switches . I had to make my own using polymorph plastic .they work fine
we need a better solution for hidraulic brake sensors. Because they are too sensitive. If you accidentally move them 1mm your motor cut offs and impacts negatively your ride. I got rid of 1 sensor and now are thinking about getting rid of second because now it cuts of randomly on a bumpy road.
I agree. The CYC ones are the best(stick on kind) especially when compared to the Bafang ones. And they are compatible with Bafang too
bengal ares3 brakes e bike motor cut off sensor looking for the sensor
Absolutely yes use them.
I was wheeling my switched on bike down a steep curb, didn't notice it had knocked the chain off so the pedals spun round which engaged the motor unexpectedly - the bike shot out of my hand across the road and hit the wheel of a parked car. Bent my forks, no damage to the car.
Sounds like a hub motor .
Want ask you about my problem on my ebike ok.
Its a kina bike 1000w bafang mtb.
My problems is gear to hard do iam living in Åre Sweden whid big up hill.
And my problem is pedal hits rock when iam driving offpist.
Thanks for you tips so far
If I understood correctly, you may want to try shorter crank arms.
If the bike is too hard to pedal uphill, you can get a smaller chainring or a cassette/freewheel with bigger sprockets.
@@MikhaelBattaglia ok how do i know what Wheel to fit or casset?
And how i know what arm to buy shorter?
I meen were or what i check so orders will fit.
Big thanks for answer
I do not install the throttle, the brake cut sensor is not really necessary
Do you have any brake sensors for rim brake road bikes?
For mechanical yes. You would want the in-line cutoffs (for drop bar road bikes)
Is there any chance a motor can be mounted above the B-bracket?
Yes, but usually not the Bafang mid drives. The CYC stealth and x1 can depending on frame.
on a cadence sensor maybe or on a dodgy one yes. otherwise honestly no.
Hydro cut offs suck and nobody domestic sells just the hydro brake levers with the cutoffs built in. I ordered some and I'm waiting 2 weeks for some NFOX levers to come from china. No good way to mount the hydro magnets on shimano mb200 brake levers.
Do you do a podcast?
We do a livestream Wednesday nights on TH-cam
If you don't have torque sensor yes, but if you do, then no!
I need them, both my e bikes lunge forward from time to time, gas engines don't do that
Big difference between gas bikes and electric bikes is the pedal assist. Gas bikes don’t have that. Throttle only.
You should use them
That being said… i disconnected mine 😂
I hate the lag after using the breaks
Aren’t there setting adjustments that allow the motor to kick on with a small crank rotation? Mine has that and the start up seems instantaneous.
You need to move the magnet bit closer to the sensor 1-2 millimeter 👍
Not if you Do Wheelie$ ...