Great Job! Thank you for the mentions as well. You ran with the idea and made it your own. If i could offer anything it would be keep the bearings lubricated with grease. Ports on side accept zert fittings. For the pins, i bent ( tweeked might be better word) my fenders slightly so when you pull the pin it springs open with no interference. I just use a 3/8" bolt with a long shoulder on my slider brackets for the stop. Works great. If you need any photos or anything else just shoot me an email. Its on my channel in the about section.
I found a clear acrylic hood that was a dealer part to show off the 49 Olds overhead valve Rocket engine that I'm going to use. Those are transfer punches if anyone wants to get some, they are handy for sure. I wonder if 10-24 machine screws are heavy enough to support an entire front end, maybe a weld on each end of the rail, but it looks good. Fiberglass fronts never fit well and are flimsy, but light. Now you need a tow point on the frame. Are you going to paint the car? What color if so?
That dealer item must be worth some money. When you say transfer punch are you talking about the center punch? There are 16 hardened bolts holding a 120 hood which means that each bolt is holding 7.5 pounds. I know it is not equal like that when the hood is being opened or closed. I think I am all right with the 10/24 bolts. No tow point, we expect to drive to the lanes and pits. Color, for now the plans are to strip it back to the frame and power coat it green. The body for now will receive a coat of matte clear
I hate to point this out now, but you did account for the size of the front tires when you designed how far the hood rolls forward, right? Edit: I mean if you wanted bigger tires later do you have room to spare?
Have to keep the front tires the size they are now because of the 24 inch center of crankshaft role. I have 6 1/8 inches to the tires and that is how far back the hood can roll.
Just an idea I have when I do my front end flip. I am thinking of putting the hoon pin on the inside that is vertical and drops down into a horizontal plate to pin it.
My 56 Chevy is for drag and street. Blown SBC with tube axle. Trying to think of a way for me to do the tilt by myself if nobody is available to help. I saw that linear bearing on BW's Garage when he built his 55. I think you did a great job on the tilt.😊
@@larrythompson7802 I could have done this project by myself with the wooden gantry. I built it for 200.00 in lumber. You could use a come along instead of the winch. Thanks for the compliment.
I had a Pinto with a tilt front-end and would put pool noodles or pipe insulation on the back of the fender to hold them out past the pin, that way I could tilt it by myself from the front.
I do all my own fabrication and hotrod builds, I drive a 550hp 1927 ford coupe and a 1957 Chevy pickup on a 71 camaro chassis. I am new to this channel and really enjoyed it. Everyone being filmed were clear and easy to understand and just did an excellent job all around
Great craftsmanship/enginering the hood to slide, with bumper, grill, and still keep the gaps, maybe one day i can start on my 49 delux, and use your great video for guidance, .what stearing box did you use? Brand, year, i will search your other videos for front frame/leaf spring how to's .i found my 49 chev for 100$ needs lots of TLC..thank you and great to see the Mrs in the shop helping, as mine also supports and helps me😊
I is great to have a wife that helps. The steering gear box is out of a 1965 C10 pickup, this is the video I did on that install th-cam.com/video/-dvnpEnyIms/w-d-xo.htmlsi=yFr3fATqXhnvPw1P Thanks for the comment.
I really enjoyed watching this project and i think I'll do something similar on my 48 Buick! As a small suggestion would it be possible to reduce the volume of the grinding tools in your videos? I hate to mention it but those things will dang near blow out an ear drum if you're listening on headphones. 😊
You're lower pins need a gutter ( channel) to clear the bottom of the fender so you don't have to walk around . We also used a light spring to push the fender away from the pins . Great job kiddo 👏
I do not want to cut the bottom lip on the fender as it adds rigidity of the fender. I will always have two people to lift the hood as my wife will be the driver.
Actually the video is 35 minutes long, the longest video I have made to date, so I can understand why you think it took so long. Thanks for the comment.
![[TH] FS vs BME - VCT Ascension Pacific - Lower Bracket Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wnygqsR2Fig/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow, great job very talented thank you for sharing Aman
Thank you very much for the nice comment.
Great Job! Thank you for the mentions as well. You ran with the idea and made it your own. If i could offer anything it would be keep the bearings lubricated with grease. Ports on side accept zert fittings. For the pins, i bent ( tweeked might be better word) my fenders slightly so when you pull the pin it springs open with no interference. I just use a 3/8" bolt with a long shoulder on my slider brackets for the stop. Works great. If you need any photos or anything else just shoot me an email. Its on my channel in the about section.
Thanks. There were grease fittings included with the liner bearings but they did not fit anywhere. I have put "some" grease on the rails.
Awesome job Glen
Thank you. Thanks for the comment.
I enjoy your video. Great car!
Thanks for the comment.
I found a clear acrylic hood that was a dealer part to show off the 49 Olds overhead valve Rocket engine that I'm going to use. Those are transfer punches if anyone wants to get some, they are handy for sure. I wonder if 10-24 machine screws are heavy enough to support an entire front end, maybe a weld on each end of the rail, but it looks good. Fiberglass fronts never fit well and are flimsy, but light. Now you need a tow point on the frame. Are you going to paint the car? What color if so?
That dealer item must be worth some money. When you say transfer punch are you talking about the center punch? There are 16 hardened bolts holding a 120 hood which means that each bolt is holding 7.5 pounds. I know it is not equal like that when the hood is being opened or closed. I think I am all right with the 10/24 bolts. No tow point, we expect to drive to the lanes and pits. Color, for now the plans are to strip it back to the frame and power coat it green. The body for now will receive a coat of matte clear
I don't understand why you used pins, you could have just as easily installed latches and they would be completely hidden
UI would like to hear more about the latches if you do not mind.
Show us on your car.
Nice job! But not sure why a guy would use slider's if you put the pivot point in the right location there is no need for them.
Have a good one 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I did it because it looks cool when you roll the hood out.
@@ThrottleStopRacingThat's the best reason.
I hate to point this out now, but you did account for the size of the front tires when you designed how far the hood rolls forward, right?
Edit: I mean if you wanted bigger tires later do you have room to spare?
Have to keep the front tires the size they are now because of the 24 inch center of crankshaft role. I have 6 1/8 inches to the tires and that is how far back the hood can roll.
Just an idea I have when I do my front end flip. I am thinking of putting the hoon pin on the inside that is vertical and drops down into a horizontal plate to pin it.
I had not thought of that. This is a drag car so show is not so important. Thanks for the idea.
My 56 Chevy is for drag and street. Blown SBC with tube axle. Trying to think of a way for me to do the tilt by myself if nobody is available to help. I saw that linear bearing on BW's Garage when he built his 55. I think you did a great job on the tilt.😊
@@larrythompson7802 I could have done this project by myself with the wooden gantry. I built it for 200.00 in lumber. You could use a come along instead of the winch. Thanks for the compliment.
I had a Pinto with a tilt front-end and would put pool noodles or pipe insulation on the back of the fender to hold them out past the pin, that way I could tilt it by myself from the front.
@@vincelamarche9686 I do not understand how that would work, can you explain it a little more?
This is great. U do some fine work !
Thank you very much for the comment.
I do all my own fabrication and hotrod builds, I drive a 550hp 1927 ford coupe and a 1957 Chevy pickup on a 71 camaro chassis. I am new to this channel and really enjoyed it. Everyone being filmed were clear and easy to understand and just did an excellent job all around
I really work hard to keep the noise down for the audio part of the videos. Thanks for the comment.
Great craftsmanship/enginering the hood to slide, with bumper, grill, and still keep the gaps, maybe one day i can start on my 49 delux, and use your great video for guidance, .what stearing box did you use? Brand, year, i will search your other videos for front frame/leaf spring how to's .i found my 49 chev for 100$ needs lots of TLC..thank you and great to see the Mrs in the shop helping, as mine also supports and helps me😊
I is great to have a wife that helps. The steering gear box is out of a 1965 C10 pickup, this is the video I did on that install th-cam.com/video/-dvnpEnyIms/w-d-xo.htmlsi=yFr3fATqXhnvPw1P Thanks for the comment.
Great job👍
The only thing I would have done different is to power the gasser with a 270/302 GMC 6.
No No Big Block all the way.
You could use spring loaded hood hinges up front and a male female something by the firewall
Thanks for the ideas and comment.
I really enjoyed watching this project and i think I'll do something similar on my 48 Buick! As a small suggestion would it be possible to reduce the volume of the grinding tools in your videos? I hate to mention it but those things will dang near blow out an ear drum if you're listening on headphones. 😊
That is a good suggestion , look for the implementation of the new policy on the next video.
That's awesome! Thanks.
All for not classic cars are the coolest original
I was looking for a new car last month and could not find one that applied to me.
Pretty great to have a wife that helps.
I could not do it with out her.
Very cool build sir..
Thank you or the comment.
Excellent job buddy
Thank you for the comment.
Looks great 😊
Thank you for the comment
🥸👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you.
Some awesome skills and fabricating going on with this project. Thanks for sharing and take care.
No problem, thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the comment.
Great job well thought out.
The ideas came from BW's Grage's channel I just copied him.
Half-ass customs did one on the same model chevy--came out great-e-z 1 man operation !!
I will have to look that up. I was not able to find a lot of how to videos on flipping the hood. Thanks for the comment.
Well done. The slide system works very well. Tilting the hood will be easy with 2 people for sure.
One can do it but the pins make that hard. Have a good day.
You're lower pins need a gutter ( channel) to clear the bottom of the fender so you don't have to walk around . We also used a light spring to push the fender away from the pins . Great job kiddo 👏
I do not want to cut the bottom lip on the fender as it adds rigidity of the fender. I will always have two people to lift the hood as my wife will be the driver.
Took you guys 20 minutes
Actually the video is 35 minutes long, the longest video I have made to date, so I can understand why you think it took so long. Thanks for the comment.
Great work! Really enjoy seeing her come together.
It is coming along, I am now thinking about what happens down the road. Thanks for the comment.
Nice work
Thanks for the comment!