Thanks, Wayne! We've been happy with the results. I need to do an update, though, to discuss diagonal bracing on a few posts which we installed in ground that was too wet - looked dry at the surface, but was wet down in the post hole. Still, the method works well, and even when we've installed diagonal bracing, we've done so without concrete with great - and long-lasting - success. Thanks for stopping by, and for your kindness. ;-)
Can this be used in conjunction with concrete? I've seen where they dug a bigger hole, screwed the 2x4s to the post, and then filled with concrete. Would the hole for the 2x4 have to be as tight if backfilling with fast setting Quickrete? I've got a 16' gate and the main support post was broken by a hurricane. It had been sagging before then-- I think the part underground rotted. I want something very sturdy. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the round posts available in my area so I have to go with a 6"x6" square post. Is that a dog in a sack hanging from something in the background? I got distracted by it trying to figure out what it was and had to rewind to pay attention to instructions. LOL. I'm glad you mentioned 6" for gate posts. I was going to go with a 2x4 but I'll try 2x6. I will coat all of the wood with something-- some sort of exterior sealant just in case. Was thinking of using a rubberized type seal on the bottom of the posts. I get a LOT of rain and it's very humid here so water is a problem. Hopefully I can get an automatic gate opener set up with it.
Thanks!! That is my "Lil Bit," who has since died. At the time of this video, she was 18 yoa, deaf, & almost completely blind. She was totally attached to me - felt secure only when near me - and knew me by smell. She would cry loudly when she couldn't find me, so I carried her around my neck in the little sack you see. I put her there to keep from hurting her while digging the hole. I checked her often between shots. I didn't realize she was in the frame until after the video was uploaded.
aw, thank you, Ruth! She was my little sweetheart. She was approaching 18 years old at the time of this video, and she was completely blind and deaf, and totally dependent on me. If she was close to me, she felt secure. I carried her around my neck in that bag everywhere we went. When I started digging the post holes, I realized she might get hurt so I hung her on that fence post - and didn't realize she was in the shot until I was editing!!!!! Ha. #TooLate But I'm glad, because she's gotten so many comments. ;-)
Thanks Billy! I can tell you that we've used this method over and over again with great success, but it really works best when the ground is dry at the bottom of the post hole when you set it. It can work otherwise, but I haven't been as happy with the tautness of the post when the hole is wet at the time of installation.
I have never seen that tip before... cool, and thanks ! Now... I like to use pipe for corners. I wonder if the 2X4 would work in that case... maybe weld a bracket on the pipe just below ground level to screw the 2X4 to instead of nailing it (to keep it from twisting. Any thoughts? Good vid...
Great tip, thanks. If you scorch the timber that's going to be in contact with the ground with a torch (or just do it over a fire), the surface will turn to carbon and the post will never erode or rot. Nothing eats pure carbon, so not even soil bacteria or fungus will eat through it.
Without this video I would not have been able to complete the first installment of setting up my posts for my backyard dog fence. That trick with the spare wood sealed the deal. I have had people pull on the posts and cannot believe that I did not use concrete to set them. Thanks so much for this video and all the rest of the good advice you all at Alderman Farms are giving us folks.
Thanks, Jester! Sorry to be so long in replying - your comment was marked as spam for some strange reason. I appreciate your kindness, and for taking the time to comment. ;-)
My dad had 2 rules he would NEVER compromise. 1.) 4 feet deep. 2.) No concrete. During my childhood, I bet we dug over 100 post holes. (Spread over several years time.) Every single one of our posts were tamped using the dirt & rocks we originally took out of the hole. Like you said- STURDY! To this day, I cringe every single time I hear someone mention 'concreting' their posts.
Awwww too precious,my condolences for your loss ,lost my lil pup Duncan Dec last year.Hard it was, to say the least!Glad we got to meet Lil Bit even if only for a minute in the background. Take care ,peace be with you and your family,thanx again for the video....
you know what's funny... I watched this months ago when I was researching fencing techniques. I was sitting in bed last night and it occurred to me that I had forgotten how you explained the method of bracing in two different directions.. luckily I found this video again... I've liked it this time (sorry) so I can reference it again..
Use a creosote post. Those pressure treated posts will be rotten in 10 years. For a while we could not get creosote posts so we used pressure treated. One day the fence was slack and a post was leaning. Shook it and it was rotten. Checked the other corners and they were rotten right under the surface. They had been in the ground 10 years. Replaced with 5 inch pipe. Never going anywhere now! I have a hydraulic post driver and its the best thing for driving steel corner posts and even creosote line posts. We replace a lot of fence that was built in the 60's several years ago and my dad used some electrical poles that snapped off in a storm. Yes they were free but I am going to have to replace them. My dad said those poles would last longer than he would. I told him the other day that he was wrong. He's 90 and outlived the posts. I do believe the steel will outlive me though.
Very well said. I can't talk, the land where I come from is very stony and rocky, so whenever we had to put in strainer posts we had to dig holes about two and a half feet wide a three feet deep, and then back fill around the post with stones or small rocks packing them in tight every time you put them in. It was a very sturdy job as you could use a very large straining post. It's all done with hydraulic post drivers now, I'm from Ireland, good talking to you.
Thank you! Your dog in the background was making me laugh the whole time. I'm so glad I don't have to use concrete. I've been procrastinating my fence because concrete is a pain and a mess.
Wow, Della - thank you so much for your kindness, and for taking the time to share that. So very happy the video was helpful to you, and I very much appreciate your encouragement. Let us know if we can help you again, or try and answer any questions for you.
There is a better way to secure corner posts on a long wire fence. Set the corner post and the the next post in each direction so you now have three posts in an "L" configuration. Next get two poles, one for each direction. Secure the pole from near the top of the corner post to the ground level of the second post, forming a triangle. This braces the corner post, making it impossible to move. Next take some heavy wire and make a loop running from the bottom of the corner post to the top of the second post. You could wind it more than once depending on how heavy you want to make the resulting cable Make it as tight as you can. Now insert any bar between the wires to twist them until it makes one braided strand and is tight as a fiddle string. You could also use cable and a turnbuckle. This secures the second post and you have a corner which is indestructible. nothing can move this configuration.
always used 3 inch cinder block caps learned this when still a kid from my grandfather many years ago and bet the caps are still there even if post rotted and gone
You just made my day.I actually lost sleep about that.You have my deep appreciation for the reply.I'm a retired construction worker and a suckered for any little creature that needs love.Have a great day.You are on my favorite list for sure.
To prevent attracting subterranean termites to your property everyone will want to only use pressure treated wood. Toe nailing or predrilling and setting some screws at an angle through the key into the post can help add strength.
Can you use this type of bracing for pulling 300-400 ft of 5 strand barb wire? Using 2X6 or 4X4 as the key? And I'll be using the 15.5 gauge high tensile barb wire so pulling it pretty tight because it'll be suspended with a line post every 60 feet or so.
+Joel Faulkner The answer to that is a qualified "yes." The qualification would be the type of soil you have. If you are installing the posts in firm, dry land, I wouldn't hesitate. If it's really soft or moist, I'm not sure I'd trust it. Sorry for the delay in responding, and hope that's helpful.
+Big Boy Bass Fishing That little dog has gotten more comments than the fencing tip! ;-) She was 18 yrs old at the time, blind and deaf, and totally attached to me and dependent on me. I carried her around my neck in that sack, and hung her there so I wouldn't hurt her while digging the hole. Between shots I would step over there to let her know I was still close. She never whimpered, and I didn't realize she was in the frame until I was editing the video! Oops. She died a few months later. Sure do miss her. :-(
Awesome, Bonnie! So glad you found it helpful. The key is placed at an angle like that basically to make it a tight squeeze to get it in there. It does end up flat, of course, but angling it like that at the beginning also helps by marking out the "hole" to be smaller than it should be, rather than bigger than it should be. If it ends up bigger, it isn't a tight fit and therefore isn't as sturdy. Hope that makes sense!
Thank you for the great video lesson. I’m trying to install a post that I can remove if needed if I need to bring in a truck or some vehicles to the backyard. Any suggestions?
+arkay49er - I can't seem to reply to you directly. I guess optimally the wood could even be coated with tar. I'm sure more could be done to make it last longer - but I've got posts in the ground that were installed with this method in the year 2000, and they are still standing strong. I'm certain that soil content and drainage matter a whole lot, too. ;-)
Ha! Good catch. That is my "Lil Bit," who has since died. At the time of this video, she was 18 yrs old, totally deaf, and almost completely blind. She was totally attached to me - felt secure when near me - and knew me by smell. She would cry loudly when she couldn't find me, so I took to carrying her around my neck in the little sack you see. I didn't realize she was in the frame until after the video was uploaded! ;-) I sure miss her.
Don’t ever use concrete to set a post because it will eat away your post!!! A piece of advice is to paint on a 50/50 mixture of used motor oil and diesel fuel to prolong the life of your posts instead of any other sealant that is what the old farmers used to do!!!! You can use secure set which is a foam that is better and cheaper to set your posts!!!!
Ha! Good catch. Indeed it is. That is my "Lil Bit," who has since died. At the time of this video, she was 18 yrs old, totally deaf, and almost completely blind. She was totally attached to me - felt secure when near me - and knew me by smell. She would cry loudly when she couldn't find me, so I took to carrying her around my neck in the little sack you see. I didn't realize she was in the frame until after the video was uploaded! ;-) I sure did love that little dog.
In other words, the dug hole side opposite of the direction that you will be pulling the body of fence to be, MUST be the natural packed soil/ground 90degrees straight down. Great Vid, great low volume background pickin music. To make it easy to dig your key troughs, use the claw end of a healthy framing hammer. It is much more precise than using anything else. The leverage and digging power of you swinging the claw end of the hammer will accurately go thru the toughest clay/rock/soil. Folks who use concrete, foam, and other fillers in a post hole are wasting their time and money. The best way to set any pole is just the way that Mr Stump Easly and you have demonstrated here. Love the stereo rooster crows at 1:55 min. What's with the lap-dog hanging on the fence in a bag behind you?????? No wonder Toby walked away. He didn't want to get stuck in a bag... Keep it up, I am a subscriber!!!!
Ha. Thanks Timothy. That little dog was my constant companion for 18 years. Scroll through the comments and you'll see that she garnered more attention than the post hole. ;-) You'll also find more of her story in the comments below.
I'm looking to build s fence to keep my two terriers in our garden and out of our neighbors. I've ordered some 5'5, posts, so how deep of a hole will I need to dig with using concrete. Ideally I need about 4-4'5 ft of the post sticking out, because any less and my terriers can clear it. Any tips on how to secure it so it won't move in the ground?
Yeah, wooden, about an inch wide. Not the thickest, but they are light, so Im uncertain a to whether they will blow down in strong winds if they are only dug in about a 1ft deep. That and my one terrier is a bit of a chunk and loves to throw his weight around jumping into things head first, so he may just knock them down with his own bodyweight?
Ashley Williams Only an inch wide? Yeah, that seems awfully "skinny" for a post. I suppose it might hold for such a small critter, though. :-) But back to your original question: if you have 5.5' posts and want 4.5' above ground, you only have 1' to bury. That's really not enough. With normal size posts, especially corners, which would need to be strong enough to contain larger animals, the posts are typically at least 8' long with 4' buried.
Perfectionist00001 10001110011 That little dog has gotten more comments than the fencing tip! ;-) She was 18 yrs old at the time, blind and deaf, and totally attached to me and dependent on me. I carried her around my neck in that sack, and hung her there so I wouldn't hurt her while digging the hole. Between shots I would step over there to let her know I was still close. She never whimpered, and I didn't realize she was in the frame until I was editing the video! Oops. She died a few months later. Sure do miss her. :-(
Hello from a small island off Canada's west coast. Just want to THANK YOU VERY MUCH for the great instructional video on how to install a stable corner fencepost. Because of your clearly described step by step demonstration, I'm confidently looking forward to doing the job of building a fence myself. It makes such a difference to have the physics behind what you're doing so clearly explained. Will definitely check out more of your videos. Thanks again.
Love the PHD joke! Love this method, too. I wish I had seen your video before I started pouring concrete. I will keep this in mind for next time. Thank you.
Hello from Scotland :D Thanks for posting this video it's just saved me from having a strainer post collapse! I love these videos, All the best for the year ahead!
Do you have any videos on how to properly attach the fencing to the posts? Are you just using fence staples? I feel like that fencing material is too thin to use just staples?
Sorry, no video. But we do use staples-the hammer-in type. Usually 3/4" or 1"...whichever I have available. We hammer a staple on every joint, and drive it deep. Works fine for us.
Just ran across your page due to looking for as much info for building a fenced in 6 acre property I just bought and will need fencing for my horses and perimeter fencing of the property for our 3 dogs. Using no Climb fence and braided wire. Ive learned that the corners are SUPER important as is the straightness of the fence line. I wanna build this fencing right, the first time so I am investing some capital into the materials. This was to secure the corner is great! Thank you very much!
you don't want to use concert if you don't have to, its like a big cork and frost likes to bit on to it and lift it out unless you keep the top of it below the frost line, that's why home foottings are down as deep as they are
hmmm. I'm not sure, based on HOW sandy your ground is. If I were in your shoes, I might give it a try - if it works, there you go. If not, all you've really lost is time. If you try it, I'd love to know how it works out for you.
@@AldermanFarms Will do. I figured I would need concrete but I had a few fence guys out here for quotes and found out they don't use concrete because of moisture. I think once I get past first foot should be good. Thanks for the reply and will let you know! It's definitely worth a shot!
Aw! He says in the comments it was an 18 year old dog, blind, who enjoys just being around him. He stuck her in the sack to keep her out of harm's way. Very clever method, but seems like a whole lot of work!
Yes, absolutely. However, in the "olden days" before concrete was readily available, this is what folks did. I really just wanted to show how our ancestors did it. I do, though, still do this if I don't have quick-crete on-hand and need a fence TODAY. Haha. Also, I have been amazed to receive emails from parts of the world where concrete is still inaccessible telling me that this video has given them a way to provide fencing for livestock! Humbling.
What a good idea. I didn't catch if you specifically said, but as I understand it, if you were in a situation were you needed to use two keys, facing two directions, would the deeper one be opposite the longer run of fence?
jimstormcrow Hmm. Without knowing HOW wet and boggy, it's hard to say. I'd be afraid it wouldn't work very well. There needs to be resistance from the earth in order for this method to work, and the dirt needs to be firm in order for that to happen. :-(
Brilliant video! Good camera angles to show what was going on and your pace of explanation was perfect to follow exactly what you were doing and why you were doing it.
What is the expected life of a post without concrete? The pressure treated 2X4 is going to be in contact with water all the time, especially in clay soils. Would this work for a taller fence? I want to install an 8 ft fence to keep out deer so I am thinking the posts would have to be 12 ft
The post in this video has been in place since March 2012, and is still as strong and as fir as the day it was installed (and the 2X4 wasn't even treated!!). Of course, I should've used a treated 2X4....just didn't have one handy...and also should've coated it with tar. I wouldn't hesitate using this method for the purpose you've described. For posts that tall, though, I would likely use a 2X6 key and make it longer than I showed in the video....maybe a full 3 feet long.
Well said, that's lovely soil you're working with. Where I'm from it's very rocky soil, we used to dig larger holes and then pack around the straining post with the stones or rocks - stone age fencing as well, but it was a good job. Now it's all done by hydraulic post drivers. I'm from Ireland, good talking to you.
That is a superb idea for doing the corner post. Will certainly try using this method. My only question is, you didn't level the post. Did you just eyeball it??
Wow thanks LOL, I have been building fence on my family's property for the last 5 years since I retired from the Army and have been plagued by corner post tilt and fence sag. It never occurred to me to put braces / supports under ground. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Gotta go fix the fence :) Thanks again.
Hi Kalev - that's a great question, and I thank you for asking it. In our case, our soil has a pretty high clay content, and we've found that it tamps down tightly without adding any water. In the event that the soil was such that water would assist, I would still be VERY careful about adding it, and would only add tiny amounts because too much water would make it too soft to tamp. I hope that makes sense. Thanks so much for watching and commenting.
Good video. I built a fence for someone 11 years ago and he wanted it done without concrete. I though he was nuts but he was paying for it. That fence is still solid - at least it was 2 years ago when I was there last.
+Cole Sudkamp sorry for the delayed response, Cole. Somehow I missed your comment. Yes, I do think it will be sturdy enough, if your soil is sufficiently hard and compacted.
Ha - such a great point about using high-tech to learn the low-tech! ;-) We love the sounds around here, too. Wouldn't trade the "ambiance" for anything. lol Glad you found this tip helpful - we've used it many, many times! Thanks so much for taking the time to watch and comment. Please keep us posted on your progress, and let us know if we can answer any questions for you.
Ha! Good catch. Indeed it is. That is Tommy's "Lil Bit," who has since died. At the time of this video, she was 18 yrs old, totally deaf, and almost completely blind. She was totally attached to Tommy - felt secure when near him - and knew him by smell. She would cry loudly when she couldn't find him, so Tommy took to carrying her around his neck in the little sack you see. Tommy didn't realize she was in the frame until after the video was uploaded! ;-) He sure did love that little dog.
One at a 45 degree angle might do it, but I'm more comfortable with two, one facing the tension directly on each side of the pull. Certainly the concrete method you've described will work, unless 1) you don't have concrete or 2) you need to pull against the post as soon as you set it. Using the "key" method, there's no waiting. As soon as you're done, you can pull fence immediately. Also, if you ever need to remove the post, reverse the process and it comes right up. ;-)
I'd say it depends on two things: the type of soil you have, and the length of the fence you're pulling. If it's a long run of fence, I'd use bracing no matter the soil type.
This is a very small enclosure. The whole perimeter is about 190'. The soil is very rocky. Four corners. Would I need a corner brace? I did the line posts already. I am doing the corner posts tomorrow.
Tractor Supply has PHD's that are hinged in the middle that you push in on the handles to remove the dirt , you can dig 4 feet deep easily, takes a little getting used to but you'll never go back to the old style
Nice to see clever fencing from old timers, they seem to have it down to a science! Was going to ask how Lil Bit was doing but read some comments where you said you missed her. So sweet and kind of you to have her close when she needed you. So sorry for your loss. She certainly made me a subscriber! Oh, and so did your fencing tips ...... Thanks. Keep up the good work and videos!
Rebecca Bates Aw, that's very kind of you. Thanks. She was my constant companion, and I still miss her. Thanks again for your kindness, and for subscribing!
Is there a way to set a T-post in similar fashion? I've got electric rope fences, they do ghet some pressure at the corners, but no animal leans on them. We drive the T-posts in with a driver, but am wondering if we could sink a 2-x-4 or similar to support the post at the base as you have demonstrated?
I learned how to build 4 strand barbed wire fence long ago at the age of 13. My teacher was a 60 year old man. Locust posts. Corner was 3 posts with top rails of locust. Corners were locked in place with twisted #9 wire. Locust lasts for at least a generation. We would stretch the wire for a about 100 yard to the next stretch point.
If the pull of the fence is to the right and the bottom of the post will want to kick out to the left, wouldn't you key it on the left side? So that it puts pressure against the key
Ben Ellis That makes sense - but to do that the key would have to be at the bottom of the hole. Too much dirt would have to be removed, thereby weakening the integrity of the hole. The key at the top, on the same side as the direction of the pull, prevents the post from moving to the right, and thereby prevents the post from kicking out to the left at the bottom. Hope that makes sense. ;-)
You mean using a T-post as a corner? We do that on some of our areas enclosed with electric fencing. You know, I've never thought about it - I guess because on ours there really isn't enough tension to need it - but I see no reason why you couldn't do the exact same thing...following the same procedure as in the video, where the T-post would replace the wooden corner post. Not sure how you would secure the T-post to the "key" to prevent twisting, though. I'll have to think about that a while!
Great HOWTO, on our Iowa grain farm we had fences that literally ran for a mile. most have been taken out but I got to put in a few growing up. We had to used a pole at least 10 inches and a second one about 8 feet away in the line of the pull of the fence. We then used a brace between to contain the force of the fence. We set the brace on an angle and then used heavy wire wrapped from the top of one to the bottom of the other. It made an x, we then used a heavy stick to wind up the wire. cont.
Ha. That's awesome, Sarge. Those old fellas knew some stuff, didn't they? Sadly we've lost so much of what they knew. Thanks again, and keep us posted on your progress!
Hey thanks, Big. That's the way it was here when we arrived in 2000 in the midst of a long drought! It was like trying to dig through cement. Whew. Thankfully, we've had fairly consistent rainfall since then - which creates the opposite problem when trying to secure a post! ;-) 'Preciate your kind words, and taking the time to comment.
Thanks for posting this. I hadn't seen it done this way before - very interesting. It does make me wonder about one thing though. Around here I don't see treated 2x4 rated for "ground contact". I would be concerned about treated "above ground rated" boards rotting away in a few years. Has that been an issue in your experience?
Awesome video. Would you recommend this techinque on just corner posts? Any tips on just the regular post digging? Thank you for posting your video. Simple, do it yourself and informative, what America needs more of!
thanks so much! I'd think it really wouldn't be necessary for line posts, as those posts don't really support any force, you know? As far as digging for line posts, we don't - we use t-posts, so they are driven. ;-)
Your info will help me so much! We strugle finding way building fence without cement. The place we will build our fence it hard to transport cement and others supply. it very expensive.In the U.S.we have everything and it convenience but not in the third world country. it is a gift from God!!! He send you to share it to us and others who needed. Thanks for posting.
this method only needs to be done with the pull post, correct? Also what do you recommend for spacing between posts? i have about a 70 foot run of fence im putting in. Thanks!
1mcobb Are you planning to use wooden line posts? If so, then yes, assuming the line posts have no pressure pulling against them (which they shouldn't), then I don't think you need to do it. Regarding spacing, if you're fence is good and tight, I think the recommendation is 8-10 feet between line posts.
Thanks, Wayne! We've been happy with the results. I need to do an update, though, to discuss diagonal bracing on a few posts which we installed in ground that was too wet - looked dry at the surface, but was wet down in the post hole. Still, the method works well, and even when we've installed diagonal bracing, we've done so without concrete with great - and long-lasting - success. Thanks for stopping by, and for your kindness. ;-)
Can this be used in conjunction with concrete? I've seen where they dug a bigger hole, screwed the 2x4s to the post, and then filled with concrete. Would the hole for the 2x4 have to be as tight if backfilling with fast setting Quickrete?
I've got a 16' gate and the main support post was broken by a hurricane. It had been sagging before then-- I think the part underground rotted. I want something very sturdy. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the round posts available in my area so I have to go with a 6"x6" square post.
Is that a dog in a sack hanging from something in the background? I got distracted by it trying to figure out what it was and had to rewind to pay attention to instructions. LOL.
I'm glad you mentioned 6" for gate posts. I was going to go with a 2x4 but I'll try 2x6. I will coat all of the wood with something-- some sort of exterior sealant just in case. Was thinking of using a rubberized type seal on the bottom of the posts. I get a LOT of rain and it's very humid here so water is a problem. Hopefully I can get an automatic gate opener set up with it.
Thanks!! That is my "Lil Bit," who has since died. At the time of this video, she was 18 yoa, deaf, & almost completely blind. She was totally attached to me - felt secure only when near me - and knew me by smell. She would cry loudly when she couldn't find me, so I carried her around my neck in the little sack you see. I put her there to keep from hurting her while digging the hole. I checked her often between shots. I didn't realize she was in the frame until after the video was uploaded.
How long will it take for the 2x4 you set in the ground to rot and once rotten, will the pole become unstable?
Very interesting! I watched it right through to the end - great video.
couldnt help but notice your lil buddy in the bag, love it , and what a good man taking special care of that lil old dog . just loved it
aw, thank you, Ruth! She was my little sweetheart. She was approaching 18 years old at the time of this video, and she was completely blind and deaf, and totally dependent on me. If she was close to me, she felt secure. I carried her around my neck in that bag everywhere we went. When I started digging the post holes, I realized she might get hurt so I hung her on that fence post - and didn't realize she was in the shot until I was editing!!!!! Ha. #TooLate But I'm glad, because she's gotten so many comments. ;-)
Thanks Billy! I can tell you that we've used this method over and over again with great success, but it really works best when the ground is dry at the bottom of the post hole when you set it. It can work otherwise, but I haven't been as happy with the tautness of the post when the hole is wet at the time of installation.
I have never seen that tip before... cool, and thanks !
Now... I like to use pipe for corners. I wonder if the 2X4 would work in that case... maybe weld a bracket on the pipe just below ground level to screw the 2X4 to instead of nailing it (to keep it from twisting.
Any thoughts?
Good vid...
Great tip, thanks. If you scorch the timber that's going to be in contact with the ground with a torch (or just do it over a fire), the surface will turn to carbon and the post will never erode or rot. Nothing eats pure carbon, so not even soil bacteria or fungus will eat through it.
dang. didn't think of that. that's an excellent piece of advice, thank you!
Without this video I would not have been able to complete the first installment of setting up my posts for my backyard dog fence. That trick with the spare wood sealed the deal. I have had people pull on the posts and cannot believe that I did not use concrete to set them. Thanks so much for this video and all the rest of the good advice you all at Alderman Farms are giving us folks.
Thanks, Jester! Sorry to be so long in replying - your comment was marked as spam for some strange reason. I appreciate your kindness, and for taking the time to comment. ;-)
Just to let you know there are people in England who appreciate your video so much, thank you
My dad had 2 rules he would NEVER compromise. 1.) 4 feet deep. 2.) No concrete. During my childhood, I bet we dug over 100 post holes. (Spread over several years time.) Every single one of our posts were tamped using the dirt & rocks we originally took out of the hole. Like you said- STURDY! To this day, I cringe every single time I hear someone mention 'concreting' their posts.
We had to once cause the water table was 3 inches below the ground
You dug 4ft post holes by hand?
Dang..
Respect to you sir.
Only a hundred of dug thousands easy. I'm not even a fencer I'm a carpenter. But I do fences
)l)llqqq
Awwww too precious,my condolences for your loss ,lost my lil pup Duncan Dec last year.Hard it was, to say the least!Glad we got to meet Lil Bit even if only for a minute in the background. Take care ,peace be with you and your family,thanx again for the video....
Omg the dog in a bag in the background made my day!❤️❤️❤️ So cute!
We are so glad you found it helpful! Keep us posted on your progress, and thanks for stopping by!
you know what's funny... I watched this months ago when I was researching fencing techniques. I was sitting in bed last night and it occurred to me that I had forgotten how you explained the method of bracing in two different directions.. luckily I found this video again... I've liked it this time (sorry) so I can reference it again..
that's outstanding, JOD! Thanks so much for sharing that with us. We love it when something we've published proves helpful. :-)
Glad you found it helpful, and thanks for stopping by to say so!
Use a creosote post. Those pressure treated posts will be rotten in 10 years. For a while we could not get creosote posts so we used pressure treated. One day the fence was slack and a post was leaning. Shook it and it was rotten. Checked the other corners and they were rotten right under the surface. They had been in the ground 10 years. Replaced with 5 inch pipe. Never going anywhere now! I have a hydraulic post driver and its the best thing for driving steel corner posts and even creosote line posts. We replace a lot of fence that was built in the 60's several years ago and my dad used some electrical poles that snapped off in a storm. Yes they were free but I am going to have to replace them. My dad said those poles would last longer than he would. I told him the other day that he was wrong. He's 90 and outlived the posts. I do believe the steel will outlive me though.
Very well said. I can't talk, the land where I come from is very stony and rocky, so whenever we had to put in strainer posts we had to dig holes about two and a half feet wide a three feet deep, and then back fill around the post with stones or small rocks packing them in tight every time you put them in. It was a very sturdy job as you could use a very large straining post. It's all done with hydraulic post drivers now, I'm from Ireland, good talking to you.
7 years from you posting this, it helped someone, me :) Thanks!!! Sub'd and liked.
that's so awesome to hear! thanks very much for taking the time to let us know that
Thank you! Your dog in the background was making me laugh the whole time. I'm so glad I don't have to use concrete. I've been procrastinating my fence because concrete is a pain and a mess.
Wow, Della - thank you so much for your kindness, and for taking the time to share that. So very happy the video was helpful to you, and I very much appreciate your encouragement. Let us know if we can help you again, or try and answer any questions for you.
There is a better way to secure corner posts on a long wire fence.
Set the corner post and the the next post in each direction so you now have three posts in an "L" configuration. Next get two poles, one for each direction. Secure the pole from near the top of the corner post to the ground level of the second post, forming a triangle. This braces the corner post, making it impossible to move. Next take some heavy wire and make a loop running from the bottom of the corner post to the top of the second post. You could wind it more than once depending on how heavy you want to make the resulting cable Make it as tight as you can. Now insert any bar between the wires to twist them until it makes one braided strand and is tight as a fiddle string. You could also use cable and a turnbuckle.
This secures the second post and you have a corner which is indestructible. nothing can move this configuration.
video?
Hey it's great to hear from you "across the pond!" Very glad we were helpful to you, and we appreciate your kindness!
always used 3 inch cinder block caps learned this when still a kid from my grandfather many years ago and bet the caps are still there even if post rotted and gone
undeserved now that’s another great idea
You just made my day.I actually lost sleep about that.You have my deep appreciation for the reply.I'm a retired construction worker and a suckered for any little creature that needs love.Have a great day.You are on my favorite list for sure.
aw. thank you so very much! you are very kind
To prevent attracting subterranean termites to your property everyone will want to only use pressure treated wood. Toe nailing or predrilling and setting some screws at an angle through the key into the post can help add strength.
KungFuMaintenance Agreed!
Can you use this type of bracing for pulling 300-400 ft of 5 strand barb wire? Using 2X6 or 4X4 as the key? And I'll be using the 15.5 gauge high tensile barb wire so pulling it pretty tight because it'll be suspended with a line post every 60 feet or so.
+Joel Faulkner The answer to that is a qualified "yes." The qualification would be the type of soil you have. If you are installing the posts in firm, dry land, I wouldn't hesitate. If it's really soft or moist, I'm not sure I'd trust it. Sorry for the delay in responding, and hope that's helpful.
dog in a bag at 3:45
+Big Boy Bass Fishing That little dog has gotten more comments than the fencing tip! ;-) She was 18 yrs old at the time, blind and deaf, and totally attached to me and dependent on me. I carried her around my neck in that sack, and hung her there so I wouldn't hurt her while digging the hole. Between shots I would step over there to let her know I was still close. She never whimpered, and I didn't realize she was in the frame until I was editing the video! Oops. She died a few months later. Sure do miss her. :-(
She's in a better place now, one day i will get a phd.
well we know you loved her
I sure did, and the feeling was mutual. ;-)
Nicholas Cowart 😂
Awesome, Bonnie! So glad you found it helpful. The key is placed at an angle like that basically to make it a tight squeeze to get it in there. It does end up flat, of course, but angling it like that at the beginning also helps by marking out the "hole" to be smaller than it should be, rather than bigger than it should be. If it ends up bigger, it isn't a tight fit and therefore isn't as sturdy. Hope that makes sense!
Love the little dog in the sack.
***** She's gotten more comments than the method! ;-) I sure do miss her.
Thank you! She was my little sidekick for many-a-year. I miss her terribly.
You are a wonderful teacher! Very smart method.
maristellagraciella Thank you for your kindness!
I am so impressed with you with your attitude and also how you explained with minimal words, so good. Thank you and God bless you.
wow, thanks so much for your kindness!
As good as they get!
the dog in the tote distracted me too much lol~ Thank u for the help!
Ha. She gets more comments than the method! I hope you read through the comments for my explanation and her story. ;-)
Thank you Alderman! Great video, thank u for help
Well you are most welcome! Glad you found it helpful, and thanks for taking the time to comment.
Bloody awesome mate, I'm going to do that this weekend. That will save me heaps in rapid set concrete.Great tip. From Australia
Wow! Thanks so much! Would love to visit down under one day. ;-)
Thank you for the great video lesson. I’m trying to install a post that I can remove if needed if I need to bring in a truck or some vehicles to the backyard. Any suggestions?
That’s one of the features of this method! Easy to remove a post that’s installed this way.
lololol! o man you had me hooked at PHD...i see why got so many thumbs up..this is classic! thanks for your time & video
antonio griffin hahaha - thanks Antonio, that comment made our day!!! ;-) 'Preciate your kind words, very much!
So glad you found it helpful, and I agree completely with your belief! Thanks much for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it very much.
+arkay49er - I can't seem to reply to you directly. I guess optimally the wood could even be coated with tar. I'm sure more could be done to make it last longer - but I've got posts in the ground that were installed with this method in the year 2000, and they are still standing strong. I'm certain that soil content and drainage matter a whole lot, too. ;-)
Another way is to wedge rocks down on each side of the post,I use a big bar and drive them in like you would a nail.
Ha! Good catch. That is my "Lil Bit," who has since died. At the time of this video, she was 18 yrs old, totally deaf, and almost completely blind. She was totally attached to me - felt secure when near me - and knew me by smell. She would cry loudly when she couldn't find me, so I took to carrying her around my neck in the little sack you see. I didn't realize she was in the frame until after the video was uploaded! ;-) I sure miss her.
Don’t ever use concrete to set a post because it will eat away your post!!! A piece of advice is to paint on a 50/50 mixture of used motor oil and diesel fuel to prolong the life of your posts instead of any other sealant that is what the old farmers used to do!!!! You can use secure set which is a foam that is better and cheaper to set your posts!!!!
Ha! Good catch. Indeed it is. That is my "Lil Bit," who has since died. At the time of this video, she was 18 yrs old, totally deaf, and almost completely blind. She was totally attached to me - felt secure when near me - and knew me by smell. She would cry loudly when she couldn't find me, so I took to carrying her around my neck in the little sack you see. I didn't realize she was in the frame until after the video was uploaded! ;-) I sure did love that little dog.
In other words, the dug hole side opposite of the direction that you will be pulling the body of fence to be, MUST be the natural packed soil/ground 90degrees straight down. Great Vid, great low volume background pickin music. To make it easy to dig your key troughs, use the claw end of a healthy framing hammer. It is much more precise than using anything else. The leverage and digging power of you swinging the claw end of the hammer will accurately go thru the toughest clay/rock/soil. Folks who use concrete, foam, and other fillers in a post hole are wasting their time and money. The best way to set any pole is just the way that Mr Stump Easly and you have demonstrated here. Love the stereo rooster crows at 1:55 min. What's with the lap-dog hanging on the fence in a bag behind you?????? No wonder Toby walked away. He didn't want to get stuck in a bag... Keep it up, I am a subscriber!!!!
Ha. Thanks Timothy. That little dog was my constant companion for 18 years. Scroll through the comments and you'll see that she garnered more attention than the post hole. ;-) You'll also find more of her story in the comments below.
I'm looking to build s fence to keep my two terriers in our garden and out of our neighbors. I've ordered some 5'5, posts, so how deep of a hole will I need to dig with using concrete. Ideally I need about 4-4'5 ft of the post sticking out, because any less and my terriers can clear it. Any tips on how to secure it so it won't move in the ground?
Ashley Williams what sort of posts, Ashley? wooden posts?
Yeah, wooden, about an inch wide. Not the thickest, but they are light, so Im uncertain a to whether they will blow down in strong winds if they are only dug in about a 1ft deep. That and my one terrier is a bit of a chunk and loves to throw his weight around jumping into things head first, so he may just knock them down with his own bodyweight?
Ashley Williams Only an inch wide? Yeah, that seems awfully "skinny" for a post. I suppose it might hold for such a small critter, though. :-) But back to your original question: if you have 5.5' posts and want 4.5' above ground, you only have 1' to bury. That's really not enough. With normal size posts, especially corners, which would need to be strong enough to contain larger animals, the posts are typically at least 8' long with 4' buried.
is that your dog in a bag behind you?
Perfectionist00001 10001110011
That little dog has gotten more comments than the fencing tip! ;-) She was 18 yrs old at the time, blind and deaf, and totally attached to me and dependent on me. I carried her around my neck in that sack, and hung her there so I wouldn't hurt her while digging the hole. Between shots I would step over there to let her know I was still close. She never whimpered, and I didn't realize she was in the frame until I was editing the video! Oops. She died a few months later. Sure do miss her. :-(
+Alderman Farms I'm sorry you lost her, they can become just like a family menber. Oh what was this video about, sure was a nice lookin little dog.
+Alderman Farms I'm very sorry for your loss.
Hello from a small island off Canada's west coast. Just want to THANK YOU VERY MUCH for the great instructional video on how to install a stable corner fencepost. Because of your clearly described step by step demonstration, I'm confidently looking forward to doing the job of building a fence myself. It makes such a difference to have the physics behind what you're doing so clearly explained.
Will definitely check out more of your videos. Thanks again.
Love the PHD joke! Love this method, too. I wish I had seen your video before I started pouring concrete. I will keep this in mind for next time. Thank you.
Soma Viceroy You're quite welcome!
Hello from Scotland :D Thanks for posting this video it's just saved me from having a strainer post collapse! I love these videos, All the best for the year ahead!
now that is wisdom!
Thanks! Didn't originate with me, so I agree! ;-)
Excellent! Did you use a similar method as demonstrated here? We have posts still firm after 13 years. ;-) Thanks for stopping by!
PhD - now that's funmy
Ha. Thanks...it's an "oldie, but a goodie." ;-)
Aw, thanks very much for those kind words! Very happy you found the information helpful. Where are you located, if you don't mind my asking?
Anyone else noticed the animal hanging in the bag on the fence in the background? lol
Ha. Yep, a "few" people. Lol. Scroll through the comments and you'll see that she's gotten more attention than anything else in the video. ;-)
Do you have any videos on how to properly attach the fencing to the posts? Are you just using fence staples? I feel like that fencing material is too thin to use just staples?
Sorry, no video. But we do use staples-the hammer-in type. Usually 3/4" or 1"...whichever I have available. We hammer a staple on every joint, and drive it deep. Works fine for us.
Is this a 14 gauge garden style welded wire fence?
I believe that's right, Joel.
Thankyou
Did not know I had a PHD.
+leonard payne See there! ;-)
+Alderman Farms I've also got a public highschool diploma, so with that said i have 2 phds at the age of 20. Not to shabby if you ask me.
Just ran across your page due to looking for as much info for building a fenced in 6 acre property I just bought and will need fencing for my horses and perimeter fencing of the property for our 3 dogs. Using no Climb fence and braided wire. Ive learned that the corners are SUPER important as is the straightness of the fence line. I wanna build this fencing right, the first time so I am investing some capital into the materials. This was to secure the corner is great! Thank you very much!
or u could just buy a 3$ bag of concret and call it a day :)
+Michael Gutierrez True, but I'd also have to wait until the concrete set before I could pull fence. ;-)
you don't want to use concert if you don't have to, its like a big cork and frost likes to bit on to it and lift it out unless you keep the top of it below the frost line, that's why home foottings are down as deep as they are
Some places are just a pain in the neck to try to get concrete and water hauled to; good option!
Great video. I'm planning on a livestock gate for my driveway. I'm in Florida and pretty sandy ground. Will this method work for me too?
hmmm. I'm not sure, based on HOW sandy your ground is. If I were in your shoes, I might give it a try - if it works, there you go. If not, all you've really lost is time. If you try it, I'd love to know how it works out for you.
@@AldermanFarms Will do. I figured I would need concrete but I had a few fence guys out here for quotes and found out they don't use concrete because of moisture. I think once I get past first foot should be good. Thanks for the reply and will let you know! It's definitely worth a shot!
Why is there a dog in a bag in the background?
Aw! He says in the comments it was an 18 year old dog, blind, who enjoys just being around him. He stuck her in the sack to keep her out of harm's way.
Very clever method, but seems like a whole lot of work!
Linda Kingston Thanks for the laugh, I need that!
Thanks. Your video was helpful. Wouldn’t it be less work and make it more sturdy to just add a couple of bags of concrete and just call it good ?
Yes, absolutely. However, in the "olden days" before concrete was readily available, this is what folks did. I really just wanted to show how our ancestors did it. I do, though, still do this if I don't have quick-crete on-hand and need a fence TODAY. Haha. Also, I have been amazed to receive emails from parts of the world where concrete is still inaccessible telling me that this video has given them a way to provide fencing for livestock! Humbling.
Wow - the method in this video seems so much easier and more convenient to me than concrete.
What a good idea. I didn't catch if you specifically said, but as I understand it, if you were in a situation were you needed to use two keys, facing two directions, would the deeper one be opposite the longer run of fence?
Excellent, thanks for that. My lands quite wet and boggy, do you have any extra advice or will this work as is do you think?
jimstormcrow Hmm. Without knowing HOW wet and boggy, it's hard to say. I'd be afraid it wouldn't work very well. There needs to be resistance from the earth in order for this method to work, and the dirt needs to be firm in order for that to happen. :-(
Alderman Farms Cheers mate.
Brilliant video! Good camera angles to show what was going on and your pace of explanation was perfect to follow exactly what you were doing and why you were doing it.
+Scott Todd Wow! Thanks so much for your kind words, and for taking the time to comment. Beginners luck, I reckon. ;-)
What is the expected life of a post without concrete? The pressure treated 2X4 is going to be in contact with water all the time, especially in clay soils. Would this work for a taller fence? I want to install an 8 ft fence to keep out deer so I am thinking the posts would have to be 12 ft
The post in this video has been in place since March 2012, and is still as strong and as fir as the day it was installed (and the 2X4 wasn't even treated!!). Of course, I should've used a treated 2X4....just didn't have one handy...and also should've coated it with tar. I wouldn't hesitate using this method for the purpose you've described. For posts that tall, though, I would likely use a 2X6 key and make it longer than I showed in the video....maybe a full 3 feet long.
Thanks for the info! Would 3 ft deep holes be sufficient with 12 ft posts?
if it were me, I'd make the holes 4 foot deep if at all possible
Thanks for sharing with us. Wondering, if you have scrap metal, that you can use that in place of the buried horizontal stud.
Well said, that's lovely soil you're working with. Where I'm from it's very rocky soil, we used to dig larger holes and then pack around the straining post with the stones or rocks - stone age fencing as well, but it was a good job. Now it's all done by hydraulic post drivers. I'm from Ireland, good talking to you.
That is a superb idea for doing the corner post. Will certainly try using this method. My only question is, you didn't level the post. Did you just eyeball it??
Wow thanks LOL, I have been building fence on my family's property for the last 5 years since I retired from the Army and have been plagued by corner post tilt and fence sag. It never occurred to me to put braces / supports under ground. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Gotta go fix the fence :) Thanks again.
Hi Kalev - that's a great question, and I thank you for asking it. In our case, our soil has a pretty high clay content, and we've found that it tamps down tightly without adding any water. In the event that the soil was such that water would assist, I would still be VERY careful about adding it, and would only add tiny amounts because too much water would make it too soft to tamp. I hope that makes sense. Thanks so much for watching and commenting.
Good video. I built a fence for someone 11 years ago and he wanted it done without concrete. I though he was nuts but he was paying for it. That fence is still solid - at least it was 2 years ago when I was there last.
Will this work for a post that needs to support a 16' x 50" gate?
Yes indeed, if the ground is firm.
Hello, How can this be adapted for a waterlogged area, where the hole will fill up with water as soon as you start digging?
Hi Luke...sadly, I don't think it's possible to adapt under such circumstances. :-(
Do you think it will be sturdy enough for a wood shed post?
+Cole Sudkamp sorry for the delayed response, Cole. Somehow I missed your comment. Yes, I do think it will be sturdy enough, if your soil is sufficiently hard and compacted.
Ha - such a great point about using high-tech to learn the low-tech! ;-) We love the sounds around here, too. Wouldn't trade the "ambiance" for anything. lol Glad you found this tip helpful - we've used it many, many times! Thanks so much for taking the time to watch and comment. Please keep us posted on your progress, and let us know if we can answer any questions for you.
Ha! Good catch. Indeed it is. That is Tommy's "Lil Bit," who has since died. At the time of this video, she was 18 yrs old, totally deaf, and almost completely blind. She was totally attached to Tommy - felt secure when near him - and knew him by smell. She would cry loudly when she couldn't find him, so Tommy took to carrying her around his neck in the little sack you see. Tommy didn't realize she was in the frame until after the video was uploaded! ;-) He sure did love that little dog.
One at a 45 degree angle might do it, but I'm more comfortable with two, one facing the tension directly on each side of the pull. Certainly the concrete method you've described will work, unless 1) you don't have concrete or 2) you need to pull against the post as soon as you set it. Using the "key" method, there's no waiting. As soon as you're done, you can pull fence immediately. Also, if you ever need to remove the post, reverse the process and it comes right up. ;-)
Do have have to do an H/N brace if I do a brace underground like this?
I'd say it depends on two things: the type of soil you have, and the length of the fence you're pulling. If it's a long run of fence, I'd use bracing no matter the soil type.
This is a very small enclosure. The whole perimeter is about 190'. The soil is very rocky. Four corners. Would I need a corner brace? I did the line posts already. I am doing the corner posts tomorrow.
I am really thankful that you put the effort in that produces your videos. I really appreciate them. Knowledge is truly the key to success !
that's very kind of you!
Tractor Supply has PHD's that are hinged in the middle that you push in on the handles to remove the dirt , you can dig 4 feet deep easily, takes a little getting used to but you'll never go back to the old style
wow! that's awesome. Thanks for the info. I'll definitely be checking that out!
Nice to see clever fencing from old timers, they seem to have it down to a science! Was going to ask how Lil Bit was doing but read some comments where you said you missed her. So sweet and kind of you to have her close when she needed you. So sorry for your loss. She certainly made me a subscriber! Oh, and so did your fencing tips ...... Thanks. Keep up the good work and videos!
Rebecca Bates Aw, that's very kind of you. Thanks. She was my constant companion, and I still miss her. Thanks again for your kindness, and for subscribing!
Nice! Any new tricks since this vid was published?
Have corner posts warped in at an angle due to the force of the pulled wire and no actual brace posts being used?
+Drizzolbud Not yet, and we’ve had some in the ground since the year 2000. Of course, we used bigger posts where we were making long pulls.
Is there a way to set a T-post in similar fashion? I've got electric rope fences, they do ghet some pressure at the corners, but no animal leans on them. We drive the T-posts in with a driver, but am wondering if we could sink a 2-x-4 or similar to support the post at the base as you have demonstrated?
great video, can this be used for decks?
Hmm. I don't see why not
First 2 posts out of 11 in today. Working a treat. I'll try and remember to do a short video once complete so you can see my set up.
I learned how to build 4 strand barbed wire fence long ago at the age of 13. My teacher was a 60 year old man. Locust posts. Corner was 3 posts with top rails of locust. Corners were locked in place with twisted #9 wire. Locust lasts for at least a generation. We would stretch the wire for a about 100 yard to the next stretch point.
If the pull of the fence is to the right and the bottom of the post will want to kick out to the left, wouldn't you key it on the left side? So that it puts pressure against the key
Ben Ellis That makes sense - but to do that the key would have to be at the bottom of the hole. Too much dirt would have to be removed, thereby weakening the integrity of the hole. The key at the top, on the same side as the direction of the pull, prevents the post from moving to the right, and thereby prevents the post from kicking out to the left at the bottom. Hope that makes sense. ;-)
You mean using a T-post as a corner? We do that on some of our areas enclosed with electric fencing. You know, I've never thought about it - I guess because on ours there really isn't enough tension to need it - but I see no reason why you couldn't do the exact same thing...following the same procedure as in the video, where the T-post would replace the wooden corner post. Not sure how you would secure the T-post to the "key" to prevent twisting, though. I'll have to think about that a while!
Great HOWTO, on our Iowa grain farm we had fences that literally ran for a mile. most have been taken out but I got to put in a few growing up. We had to used a pole at least 10 inches and a second one about 8 feet away in the line of the pull of the fence. We then used a brace between to contain the force of the fence. We set the brace on an angle and then used heavy wire wrapped from the top of one to the bottom of the other. It made an x, we then used a heavy stick to wind up the wire. cont.
Ha. That's awesome, Sarge. Those old fellas knew some stuff, didn't they? Sadly we've lost so much of what they knew. Thanks again, and keep us posted on your progress!
Is keying a gate post an alternative to concrete and a brace
PD Northwest Sure, if the soil is compact enough and not too moist. :-)
Hey thanks, Big. That's the way it was here when we arrived in 2000 in the midst of a long drought! It was like trying to dig through cement. Whew. Thankfully, we've had fairly consistent rainfall since then - which creates the opposite problem when trying to secure a post! ;-) 'Preciate your kind words, and taking the time to comment.
Thanks for posting this. I hadn't seen it done this way before - very interesting. It does make me wonder about one thing though. Around here I don't see treated 2x4 rated for "ground contact". I would be concerned about treated "above ground rated" boards rotting away in a few years. Has that been an issue in your experience?
+arkay49er Not so far, but it really would be wiser to coat the board with tar or some such.
Awesome video. Would you recommend this techinque on just corner posts? Any tips on just the regular post digging? Thank you for posting your video. Simple, do it yourself and informative, what America needs more of!
thanks so much! I'd think it really wouldn't be necessary for line posts, as those posts don't really support any force, you know? As far as digging for line posts, we don't - we use t-posts, so they are driven. ;-)
Your info will help me so much!
We strugle finding way building fence without cement.
The place we will build our fence it hard to transport cement and others supply. it very expensive.In the U.S.we have everything and it convenience but not in the third world country.
it is a gift from God!!! He send you to share it to us and others who needed.
Thanks for posting.
this method only needs to be done with the pull post, correct? Also what do you recommend for spacing between posts? i have about a 70 foot run of fence im putting in. Thanks!
1mcobb Are you planning to use wooden line posts? If so, then yes, assuming the line posts have no pressure pulling against them (which they shouldn't), then I don't think you need to do it. Regarding spacing, if you're fence is good and tight, I think the recommendation is 8-10 feet between line posts.
Thanks, Jeff! You're mighty kind. Thanks for taking the time to say such nice things, we really do appreciate it.