Oh Wow ... Excellent work friend, I congratulate you, a lot of work, effort and creativity, thanks for sharing excellent project, very motivating, I hope to see the next videos with the final result ...
Nice work you are doing there Stig. The machine looks like new. What drove you to rip the brain out and retrofit it, rather than using the Phillips 432 control, which seems to have a pretty good reputation? I have been tempted to do something similar, but would need to enlarge a doorway ina structural basement wall to get it in. Have you started looking at controlling the spindle gearbox yet? How about the tool holder actuator? How did you integrate the Maho's glass scales into the Mach control loop, or are you running it open loop? Have you integrated the Maho limit and home switches into Mach, or redone them?
Hi. Thank you :) Well the old Philips 432 was way to old for me. This machine I got for free from a school, and it has only a few hours in use, so it is close to new that way. I got another manual mill allso, and was going to retrofit that in the first place, so I had allready bought Servomotors and drivers for that when I got this Maho.. The potential in the Maho MH-400 turned out to be much bether as it allready got ballscrews , lubrication, and allso is a very presice and robust machine. In a few weeks from now I will allso replace the 3-phase spindlemotor with an 1.8Kw AC servomotor, and bypass the gearbox. 4th axis will allso be automated with an 200w AC servomotor :) My spindle speed will be 4500 rpm. My rapid table speed is 8000mm/m on X and Y. and 2000mm/m on Z. I can double that if I want to, but I think this is fast enough.
Thanks for the response Stig. You got a great deal there. Shame to lose the gearbox. Being able hog with high torque at low speed opens up a lot of possiblities. MuellerNick in Germany got gearbox control on his MH700 done under LinuxCNC. I take it you are not closing the positioning loop using the original glass scale feedback?
Hi again. I was told from DMM that high torque on low speed would not be a problem with 1.8Kw AC Servomotor. Those motors can easly match up to twice the size 3-fhase motors. I hope that ir correct. Otherwice I can redo it later on using the gearbox. That is an easy task. I dont use the orginal Glass Scales for anything. Only for calibration, as I allso got a separate Haidenhan DRO. But I was told that Mach4 can use both encoders and Glass Scales in paralel if I want to. I will try without scales first. Today I got repited posision precision down to about 0.0005mm
Hi, I canot guess which wires goes in pobus expanders? How you connect your buttons, when you press one button its lighting and when you press another, previous one is turned off, do you use some relays for light in buttons or pokeys control somehow that? Thank you in advance, Luka
Hi Luka. Please watch this video in stead --> th-cam.com/video/TfLEWtQdICo/w-d-xo.html Wires connected to my Pokey Extenders are: Black wires is -12v Negative or Ground from Computer Power (Power all button LED's) Yello wires is +12v from Computer Power (powers all button LED's) Blue wires are -12v from extender board to button LED's. This board will not give +volt out when trigged. They give -volt. Therfore all buttons got +12v constantly via all the Yello wires and LED's get -12volt when Board trigger that specific output, and LED lights up. For the logic control of LED's you need to do this in LUA script.. This was the hard part for me as LUA is pretty new for me.. But I got it all now, and I can share my script if you want. This will be MACH4 Screen Load script and the PLC script. Here I can define one button to go dark when another button is pressed and goes light. I also control most of my button functions in those scripts, but many of those features can also be done with PMC Ladder. I hope this was some help... Watch my TH-cam channel for more videos about this project.
Very nice! I also have the Maho MH 600E, thinking about the retrofit because there are still problems with the philips 432. Please do you use the servo motors?
No. I dont. For X and Y-axis I use 750w AC Servomotors, and for Z-axis I use 1,3Kw AC Servomotor with holding brake. Servomotors, drivers and BrakeOutBoard are from DMM. If you buy there you will get all you need as a Plug'n Play kit, with cables, limitswitches and all you need. Allso very good customer service. Check it out here --> www.dmm-tech.com/
hi there i really like your layout design of the control panel and looking to retrofit my kx1s with something like it could I ask what pcb's are you using to interface between the panel and the controller itself some people have used an Arduino and others have used emulaters used for arcad panels.
I did use an Pokeys with 55 I/O's and added additional 48 Outputs to it .. So all my buttons and my MPG wheel are set as Input's on that board, and all LED's in buttons are set as Outputs on the 48 add'on cards.. You should see my video here ---> th-cam.com/video/TfLEWtQdICo/w-d-xo.html for my final setup. In the end of that video You will see all my wires connected to the cards. All green wires there are inputs from panel buttons, All blue wires are Outputs for LED's. The yellow ones are 12v from my PC power and Black are Ground. Red are 5v from Pokey to power my MPG. Then you see the ribbon cables. They are going in chain from Pokeys to add'on Output card, and from that to the next, and so on. They are addressed by BUS signal from Pokeys... (PoExtBus) All this is pretty simple to do :) All this can be adressed easy in Mach3 or Mach4 via Plugins. I hope this was some help.
Hi. I tried a few buttons from Ebay at first, but it was all crap, and NOT momentary as I ordered.. Then I found this fabric in China. They got a lot of interesting stuff for CNC and automation. And very good quality. They are pretty serious too. And the prices is also nice. www.cntd.com/product.php?partid=10&mpid=333 If I remember right it was about 1€ per button. In Norway I only found those from Omron and they cost around 28€ each. I should mention that you will need to order a lot to make them sell to private customers.. I ordered no less than 350 buttons in different colors and shapes.
I only use the Pokeys56U, and the only thing it does is to map my panel buttons.. For that pirpose it is really nice :) Your cnc version will be a lot more complex to set up.
i see your milling machine has a gear box with 9 steps. Can you tell me the solution to change automaticaly the steps in the gear box. It is possible with The S in the G Code? Or have you written macros for m direction?
Watch more of my videos in my channel. There you will see that I am not using the gearbox at all.. I will drive my spindle directly with an big AC servomotor.
Hi I'm using a Pokeys57ECNC controller with Mach4. I would really appreciate it if you would share your MACH4 Screen Load script and the PLC script. Keep up the great work. Tony
Hi I'm using a Pokeys57ECNC controller with Mach4. I would really appreciate it if you would share your MACH4 Screen Load script and the PLC script. Keep up the great work. Please send to tonybullardvt@gmail.com
Hi. All labels and panel graphic are made by an local company that makes foil for cars and commercials. The buttons got removable clear plastic covers to hold transparent labels. See this video for last layout of this panel --> th-cam.com/video/TfLEWtQdICo/w-d-xo.html
Well yes and no. It sort of depends on what it is you are looking to do. Technically there is nothing to stop you from doing that. It's more a case of ease of implementation I suppose. Perhaps you noticed all the extension boards included underneath the keyboard. These are from the same company. They have a whole line of devices like that geared specifically to the field of anything Mach 3 (or 4) controlled. I personally chose to go with their Pokeys57cnc motion controller. A large reason for it was that it offers almost all you could ever need for a CNC(etc) in 1 board (bar the drivers as those are often case specific). It has tons of Inputs/Outputs, a 10v PWM header for the spindle speed control, relais to activate things like coolant or dust collection, display interfaces, 1-wire, i2c, 8 stepper driver IO connections USB and Ethernet ... you get the idea. All of that can be done with Arduino, no doubt about it. But it would not be out of the box. That does not make it a bad option, just more work intensive. But it does not end there, Polabs also has a plugin that hooks all of their stuff up with Mach 3/4. So that's easy. And finally (also a big plus for me) their PoBlocks software. A GUI based tool to design your own logic flow (in a sort of flowchart layout) to make use of all these connections and get them to do what you want. Again none of this cannot be done with an Arduino, ESP or other MCU. Just not out of the box as it were.
Thank you :) I like Mach4 bether for many reasons.. The most important one is spindle rpm control. The downside with Mach4 is all the LUA scripting. It can be really hard to understand, and it is easy to make misstakes.. But all in all its way bether :)
@@StigOveRuud Hi, Have you tried EdingCNC I am putting one together now for testing and its looks promising. I have used Mach 3 on several times and Looked at Mach 4 but never set one up. I do have two Acorn CNC running and they work well pretty easy to set up but only 4 Axis. I need 6 for the machine I am building right now. What you have done on the control looks great
The joystick is digital (momentary switches) and are connected to an Pokeys. The same goes for all switches and the MPG wheel, and also all lights. Later on all are programmed in Mach via an plugin. Most of it are done in LUA scripts. Well there is a few switches that are not connected to the Pokeys.. Power on and off, and some more goes directly to an PLC in the electronic closure.
so your using a po keys controller I have a vitalsystem controller for mach 4 plasma I just found there are 6 inputs for jog control so I can wire a joystick should work
I know :) This panel was only prototype. And all wiring are done just fine on the newest panel.. Watch this video on my youtube channel. th-cam.com/video/TfLEWtQdICo/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=StigOveRuud
It is an Revolution K21A screen Ebay link: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Touch+Revolution+K21A-0101-A0+Wide+Touch+Screen+Industrial+Monitor+LCD+21.5%22&_sacat=0
I have a mach 4 vitalsystem controller hilcon I trying to figure out how to add an engraver what I figured out so far. is if I do an m6 T2 in the mdi the screen changes to the T 2 tool. I assume the off set settings in the tool list for x y z. so what ever I put in there the tool the x y z will move to when M6 T2 in pushing cycle start. then I will need to add a button to turn on an output and add that command to the M6 t2 command then an off command also is this correct I using sheet cam so if I add a code for M6 T2 it should move to the settings in the tool set for the x y z then turn on the engraver then turn off after cycle is this correct I not sure what I am doing realy not sure how to setup the on off commands
I had a little help and made a script to use an engraver in mach 4 it uses a tool change I put in the offsets I can plasma cut and engrave . I have a post for sheetcam that does it also
I bet you'll never get to run a proper job on that machine. You will always be retrofiting it. The maker will always be a maker, same go with the R&D and user etc. I stop doing what you are doing many years ago and just buy the finish product and use it. Tweak it a little here and there. That is it. Good luck.
You are partialy right mister.. I will allways be the maker.. But still I did run a few proper jobs already. This video are old. The machine are up and running just fine now with servo spindle and Pneumatic tool release, Water, air and mist coolant system. Still got a few bugs in Mach4 but thats doable. But I do like to build machines more than I like running them. Now I got an CNC to make parts for my next project. CNC Plasma maybe? Time will show....
@@StigOveRuud i still think im not partially right but totally right. 12 years ago i have build my own cnc using mdf, back then very few know about cnc. cnc pop out due to 3d printing. 6 yeas ago i built a 5 axis using gmax etc.. it a never ending game. You always want to improve your machine more than anything, always try to make it better. this cost alot of money etc... somehow i manage to land a job as project manager so i know how to put cost onto things,.. this was a break thru of my life.. i was able to sell parts that i bough for my garage machine and turn it into business. Now i owned an online shop stocking cnc parts and automation control and help out people instead of building my own. i hope you can tun your knowledge and how others this is what i meant. you little knowledge can make a break thru out there. you will be suprised that not everyone is detailed like us. Goodluck
@@Starlight012 OK.. You are all right :) You may have some parts of interest then ? You got an link or something? It's cool that you managed to make business of your hobby :) For me it's only hobby.. I got CNC machines at work too.
Wow you seriously need some clearance away from the CNC and the wall, especially if you are leaving it live and getting behind it. If something should trigger movement you would be eaten alive by machine. At least put an E-STOP on the back of the machine if you are going to do that.
Very impressive Stig! Iam just starting a "mach 4" "ESS smooth stepper" journey...... seeing your panel and retrofit gives me hope! - Nick
Oh Wow ... Excellent work friend, I congratulate you, a lot of work, effort and creativity, thanks for sharing excellent project, very motivating, I hope to see the next videos with the final result ...
Nice work you are doing there Stig. The machine looks like new. What drove you to rip the brain out and retrofit it, rather than using the Phillips 432 control, which seems to have a pretty good reputation? I have been tempted to do something similar, but would need to enlarge a doorway ina structural basement wall to get it in.
Have you started looking at controlling the spindle gearbox yet?
How about the tool holder actuator?
How did you integrate the Maho's glass scales into the Mach control loop, or are you running it open loop?
Have you integrated the Maho limit and home switches into Mach, or redone them?
Hi. Thank you :) Well the old Philips 432 was way to old for me. This machine I got for free from a school, and it has only a few hours in use, so it is close to new that way. I got another manual mill allso, and was going to retrofit that in the first place, so I had allready bought Servomotors and drivers for that when I got this Maho.. The potential in the Maho MH-400 turned out to be much bether as it allready got ballscrews , lubrication, and allso is a very presice and robust machine.
In a few weeks from now I will allso replace the 3-phase spindlemotor with an 1.8Kw AC servomotor, and bypass the gearbox. 4th axis will allso be automated with an 200w AC servomotor :) My spindle speed will be 4500 rpm.
My rapid table speed is 8000mm/m on X and Y. and 2000mm/m on Z. I can double that if I want to, but I think this is fast enough.
Thanks for the response Stig. You got a great deal there.
Shame to lose the gearbox. Being able hog with high torque at low speed opens up a lot of possiblities. MuellerNick in Germany got gearbox control on his MH700 done under LinuxCNC.
I take it you are not closing the positioning loop using the original glass scale feedback?
Hi again. I was told from DMM that high torque on low speed would not be a problem with 1.8Kw AC Servomotor. Those motors can easly match up to twice the size 3-fhase motors.
I hope that ir correct. Otherwice I can redo it later on using the gearbox. That is an easy task. I dont use the orginal Glass Scales for anything. Only for calibration, as I allso got a separate Haidenhan DRO. But I was told that Mach4 can use both encoders and Glass Scales in paralel if I want to. I will try without scales first. Today I got repited posision precision down to about 0.0005mm
Do you still have all the original 432 control components? I am looking at one with some personality problems, and might need to purchase spares.
aww... Well I did until 1 week ago. Now its gone..
Hi,
I canot guess which wires goes in pobus expanders?
How you connect your buttons, when you press one button its lighting and when you press another, previous one is turned off, do you use some relays for light in buttons or pokeys control somehow that?
Thank you in advance,
Luka
Hi Luka. Please watch this video in stead --> th-cam.com/video/TfLEWtQdICo/w-d-xo.html
Wires connected to my Pokey Extenders are:
Black wires is -12v Negative or Ground from Computer Power (Power all button LED's)
Yello wires is +12v from Computer Power (powers all button LED's)
Blue wires are -12v from extender board to button LED's. This board will not give +volt out when trigged. They give -volt. Therfore all buttons got +12v constantly via all the Yello wires
and LED's get -12volt when Board trigger that specific output, and LED lights up.
For the logic control of LED's you need to do this in LUA script.. This was the hard part for me as LUA is pretty new for me.. But I got it all now, and I can share my script if you want.
This will be MACH4 Screen Load script and the PLC script. Here I can define one button to go dark when another button is pressed and goes light.
I also control most of my button functions in those scripts, but many of those features can also be done with PMC Ladder.
I hope this was some help...
Watch my TH-cam channel for more videos about this project.
Stig Ove Ruud thank you very much for the answer, now I think that I have that part what was missing.
Very nice! I also have the Maho MH 600E, thinking about the retrofit because there are still problems with the philips 432. Please do you use the servo motors?
No. I dont. For X and Y-axis I use 750w AC Servomotors, and for Z-axis I use 1,3Kw AC Servomotor with holding brake. Servomotors, drivers and BrakeOutBoard are from DMM. If you buy there you will get all you need as a Plug'n Play kit, with cables, limitswitches and all you need. Allso very good customer service. Check it out here --> www.dmm-tech.com/
Thank you for answer. :)
How many Ampere, Nm, and rpm engines do you have?
I'm from the Czech Republic and we do not have DMM.
Well. DMM is in Canada, and I live in Norway. The other side of the planet.. So what is the problem ?
hi there i really like your layout design of the control panel and looking to retrofit my kx1s with something like it could I ask what pcb's are you using to interface between the panel and the controller itself some people have used an Arduino and others have used emulaters used for arcad panels.
I did use an Pokeys with 55 I/O's and added additional 48 Outputs to it .. So all my buttons and my MPG wheel are set as Input's on that board, and all LED's in buttons are set as Outputs on the 48 add'on cards.. You should see my video here ---> th-cam.com/video/TfLEWtQdICo/w-d-xo.html
for my final setup. In the end of that video You will see all my wires connected to the cards.
All green wires there are inputs from panel buttons, All blue wires are Outputs for LED's. The yellow ones are 12v from my PC power and Black are Ground. Red are 5v from Pokey to power my MPG. Then you see the ribbon cables. They are going in chain from Pokeys to add'on Output card, and from that to the next, and so on. They are addressed by BUS signal from Pokeys... (PoExtBus) All this is pretty simple to do :) All this can be adressed easy in Mach3 or Mach4 via Plugins.
I hope this was some help.
Stig Ove Ruud that's great and thanks so much for your reply I hope I can show my design on here at some point but I am now on a trip of discovery.
Hi Stig. Great job with the illuminated buttons. Will you please give me a link to them? Thank you.
Hi. I tried a few buttons from Ebay at first, but it was all crap, and NOT momentary as I ordered.. Then I found this fabric in China. They got a lot of interesting stuff for CNC and automation. And very good quality. They are pretty serious too. And the prices is also nice. www.cntd.com/product.php?partid=10&mpid=333 If I remember right it was about 1€ per button. In Norway I only found those from Omron and they cost around 28€ each. I should mention that you will need to order a lot to make them sell to private customers.. I ordered no less than 350 buttons in different colors and shapes.
On a submarine, the buttons are smaller than on your remote.
OK? IS that important for me to know ? lol.
What are your thoughts on the Pokeys device? I have a Pokeys57cnc, postep60-256 drivers, relay ext, ect.ect.
I only use the Pokeys56U, and the only thing it does is to map my panel buttons.. For that pirpose it is really nice :) Your cnc version will be a lot more complex to set up.
i see your milling machine has a gear box with 9 steps. Can you tell me the solution to change automaticaly the steps in the gear box. It is possible with The S in the G Code? Or have you written macros for m direction?
Watch more of my videos in my channel. There you will see that I am not using the gearbox at all.. I will drive my spindle directly with an big AC servomotor.
@@StigOveRuud the spindle is always runig with the same step in the gear box. You are never changing this?
Hi
I'm using a Pokeys57ECNC controller with Mach4. I would really appreciate it if you would share your MACH4 Screen Load script and the PLC script. Keep up the great work.
Tony
Hi I'm using a Pokeys57ECNC controller with Mach4. I would really appreciate it if you would share your MACH4 Screen Load script and the PLC script. Keep up the great work. Please send to tonybullardvt@gmail.com
How did you put the labels on the button faces? Thank you.
Hi. All labels and panel graphic are made by an local company that makes foil for cars and commercials. The buttons got removable clear plastic covers to hold transparent labels.
See this video for last layout of this panel --> th-cam.com/video/TfLEWtQdICo/w-d-xo.html
Thank you. You do beautiful work.
love the keyboard, who makes it? cheers
I got the keyboard from Aliexpress. Follow this link --> www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170702033614&SearchText=CT-S370TB
@Stig Ove Ruud.....Can ARDUINO replace the pokeys56U???
Well yes and no. It sort of depends on what it is you are looking to do.
Technically there is nothing to stop you from doing that. It's more a case of ease of implementation I suppose. Perhaps you noticed all the extension boards included underneath the keyboard. These are from the same company. They have a whole line of devices like that geared specifically to the field of anything Mach 3 (or 4) controlled. I personally chose to go with their Pokeys57cnc motion controller. A large reason for it was that it offers almost all you could ever need for a CNC(etc) in 1 board (bar the drivers as those are often case specific). It has tons of Inputs/Outputs, a 10v PWM header for the spindle speed control, relais to activate things like coolant or dust collection, display interfaces, 1-wire, i2c, 8 stepper driver IO connections USB and Ethernet ... you get the idea. All of that can be done with Arduino, no doubt about it. But it would not be out of the box. That does not make it a bad option, just more work intensive.
But it does not end there, Polabs also has a plugin that hooks all of their stuff up with Mach 3/4. So that's easy. And finally (also a big plus for me) their PoBlocks software. A GUI based tool to design your own logic flow (in a sort of flowchart layout) to make use of all these connections and get them to do what you want.
Again none of this cannot be done with an Arduino, ESP or other MCU. Just not out of the box as it were.
Wow, that's an insane panel - Very well done! - Too bad about the typos on the engraved text though :/
Thank you :) You can see the final version of the panel in this video: th-cam.com/video/TfLEWtQdICo/w-d-xo.html
Nice work on the Panel how do you like Mach 4 is it much better and more reliable then Mach 3
Thank you :) I like Mach4 bether for many reasons.. The most important one is spindle rpm control. The downside with Mach4 is all the LUA scripting. It can be really hard to understand, and it is easy to make misstakes.. But all in all its way bether :)
@@StigOveRuud Hi, Have you tried EdingCNC I am putting one together now for testing and its looks promising. I have used Mach 3 on several times and Looked at Mach 4 but never set one up. I do have two Acorn CNC running and they work well pretty easy to set up but only 4 Axis. I need 6 for the machine I am building right now. What you have done on the control looks great
where did you buy cnc pendant and keyboard
Pedant from Ebay. But it dont work on Mach4. Only Mach3. The keyboard is from Aliexpress
does the joystick simply use inputs to the controller you program to x y z
The joystick is digital (momentary switches) and are connected to an Pokeys. The same goes for all switches and the MPG wheel, and also all lights. Later on all are programmed in Mach via an plugin. Most of it are done in LUA scripts.
Well there is a few switches that are not connected to the Pokeys.. Power on and off, and some more goes directly to an PLC in the electronic closure.
so your using a po keys controller I have a vitalsystem controller for mach 4 plasma I just found there are 6 inputs for jog control so I can wire a joystick should work
That should work yes :). By the way I use an ESS Smoothstepper as my CNC controller.
I thaught pokeys was the controller I was wrong I have to check pokeys more
Pokeys are more like an PLC with a high number of I/O's
do you using windows 10 operational system ?
Yes I do run Windows 10. Intel I3, 8gb RAM and SSD drive :)
Emergency was spelled wrong on the panel....I hope you’re going to clean up the wiring in there, that looks scary.
I know :) This panel was only prototype. And all wiring are done just fine on the newest panel.. Watch this video on my youtube channel. th-cam.com/video/TfLEWtQdICo/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=StigOveRuud
what brand of touch screen is this
It is an Revolution K21A screen
Ebay link: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Touch+Revolution+K21A-0101-A0+Wide+Touch+Screen+Industrial+Monitor+LCD+21.5%22&_sacat=0
What a beautiful job! Do you need an apprentice? I would work for free.
Best Regards
I have a mach 4 vitalsystem controller hilcon I trying to figure out how to add an engraver what I figured out so far. is if I do an m6 T2 in the mdi the screen changes to the T 2 tool. I assume the off set settings in the tool list for x y z. so what ever I put in there the tool the x y z will move to when M6 T2 in pushing cycle start. then I will need to add a button to turn on an output and add that command to the M6 t2 command then an off command also is this correct I using sheet cam so if I add a code for M6 T2 it should move
to the settings in the tool set for the x y z then turn on the engraver then turn off after cycle is this correct I not sure what I am doing realy not sure how to setup the on off commands
You can make your own M-codes to activate / deactivate Outputs in Mach.
I had a little help and made a script to use an engraver in mach 4 it uses a tool change I put in the offsets I can plasma cut and engrave . I have a post for sheetcam that does it also
Where did you get that joystick?
It is an pretty common joystick you can get on Ebay. I bought it from RS-online here in Norway. it costs about 35€
@@StigOveRuud PLEASE SHARE THE LINK WHERE YOU GOT THE JOY STICK
Hi, is this Mach 4 hobby or industrial?
I use the Hobby version.. I dont need Industrial.. Most ppls dont :)
check my channel for more videos of this project :)
What motion control board did you use?
@@mariomatteopapetti3221 ESS SmoothStepper :)
Fantastico
nesta versão consegue-se fazer a comunicação por usb
Then you will need an USS (USB Smooth Stepper) I use an ESS.. Ethernet SS...
Кидать МГТФом длинные сопли - это по-нашему ))
Ohhhhh...Pretty...:)
Шикарно!!! лайк
спасибо (thanks)
this chines servos are popular this days ....got look at them
All my servo motors and drives are made in Canada :) By DMM-Tech
thank you .... i have ordered them already
That's wicked lol
I bet you'll never get to run a proper job on that machine. You will always be retrofiting it. The maker will always be a maker, same go with the R&D and user etc. I stop doing what you are doing many years ago and just buy the finish product and use it. Tweak it a little here and there. That is it. Good luck.
You are partialy right mister.. I will allways be the maker.. But still I did run a few proper jobs already. This video are old. The machine are up and running just fine now with servo spindle and Pneumatic tool release, Water, air and mist coolant system. Still got a few bugs in Mach4 but thats doable.
But I do like to build machines more than I like running them. Now I got an CNC to make parts for my next project. CNC Plasma maybe? Time will show....
@@StigOveRuud i still think im not partially right but totally right. 12 years ago i have build my own cnc using mdf, back then very few know about cnc. cnc pop out due to 3d printing. 6 yeas ago i built a 5 axis using gmax etc.. it a never ending game. You always want to improve your machine more than anything, always try to make it better. this cost alot of money etc... somehow i manage to land a job as project manager so i know how to put cost onto things,.. this was a break thru of my life.. i was able to sell parts that i bough for my garage machine and turn it into business. Now i owned an online shop stocking cnc parts and automation control and help out people instead of building my own. i hope you can tun your knowledge and how others this is what i meant. you little knowledge can make a break thru out there. you will be suprised that not everyone is detailed like us. Goodluck
@@Starlight012 OK.. You are all right :) You may have some parts of interest then ? You got an link or something? It's cool that you managed to make business of your hobby :) For me it's only hobby.. I got CNC machines at work too.
Wow you seriously need some clearance away from the CNC and the wall, especially if you are leaving it live and getting behind it. If something should trigger movement you would be eaten alive by machine. At least put an E-STOP on the back of the machine if you are going to do that.
Didnt think of that. Good idea :) An proximity laser will do the job :)
show
off !!!