More than usual you show your mechanical professionalism. Thank you. I saw that you did take the plastic nut off the wiring harness plastic case. I removed both of them and was able to pull the harness up the shock tower out of the way so I could get the T55 on the VVT pully without messing with jacking the engine up...Again, this is stressful work and it is so helpful to have your videos to reference.
Over the weekend I bought a Volvo. I did everything you said to do in the video where you said the top things to check when buying a Volvo. The car passed! I'm glad I found your channel! Subscribed! The guy I bought the car from was a mechanic and as we were talking, he is subscribed to your channel. Have an awesome day Robert!
I think you have just saved me around £500!!! just had a quote from my local garage to replace the timing belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, aux belt and the VVT pulley and they quoted m3 just over £700! after seeing your 2 videos I feel confident to tackle it myself. I like that you miss out the 20 minutes undoing each bolt and you give good camera angles to see what you are doing! keep up the good work boss!
Robert, your videos are very informational and are greatly appreciated. Replaced my timing belt and freshened up my turbo 10,000kms ago. Kicking myself I didn't know about these VVT hub o-rings as the car is now slowly leaking oil from them. You can see the spray inside of the upper timing cover. I replaced every single other component including the cam seals as I thought it was one of them, now it seems I have to go back in for another go as it's getting worse.
One thing you might not have mentioned that I found was probably behind my cam seal leak besides normal wear. The PCV system. Putting a glove over the oil filler cap while idling and it inflated big time. That pressure is what was pushing oil through my seal. So I need to replace that too.
Thanks again, Robert! Your videos have been very helpful to me. Getting that timing right is a bit of a nerve wracking ordeal, particularly on my 06 that has two VVT pulleys. I was thrilled to be able to correct the problem without the involvement of a dealership or other mechanic.
Just did the cam seals and timing belt with lots of help from your Videos!! I didn't have the time to wait for the cam locking tool but I fabricated a piece for the backside to kind of hold them in place and then I used a cam sprocket tool for the front, there weren't any holes for the tool on the vvt exhaust valve but there was a way to kind of lock it in there behind the bolts. Anyways I just wanted to say thanks your videos are very informative!! Cheers to you sir 🍻
No need to lift the motor. If you remove the wiring harness from those studs on the strut tower, there's just enough room to fit a 3/8" T55 on a ratchet. The 1/2" is a little tight, though. I used the 1/2" for the actual bolt, but I had to use a 3/8" on the plug. After the VVT nightmare on my cousin's S70, I think I'm pretty good with the VVT now! Haha
Hold on a second...at 11:12 when Robert inspects the VVT hub he noticed some play in it and said he would check with his mechanic! This is like Superman needing to call for help! Man, who helps Superman? That must be a serious yoda-obe-one-kanobe-bruce-lee-chuck-norris-mr-T-lebron-james mechanic he's calling.
DUDE!!! When putting the tension pulley on you need to show what position to tighten it in. Theres hot, warm and cold positions. If thats not done right the belt can slip off while car is running. There are three notches on the pulley. First is cold. Middle is warm and third hot. Hold the tension release paddle on the notch of your engines temp when your doing this job while you tighten the bolt. Mostly we do these jobs while engine is cold which is the first notch.
Just as a tip, when you put your T55 star and it is tight, don't waste your time jacking engine, get a surpentine service wrench, a flat tool with 3/8 square end for T55 socket, worked perfect. I am all about saving time and steps. Curious, anyone ever find a situation where you do not have a cam alignment mark on pulley sprocket? I found the one on exhaust with a microscope. lol, but nothing on intake pulley? I did find a small line in tooth on opposite side of pulley, anyone ever run into this before? Thanks for video Robert. Thanks.
Hi Robert, you mention if the middle part of the VVT has in and out play it is bad. Did you get this confirmed? I have replaced the seal and when tightening it down (snugged) the hub will not move back and forth. But don't want to spend the 300 pounds sterling if I don't need to. Volvo c70 2004 convertible.
Like many I really enjoyed your instructional video. You made the job less scary and very informative. I'm getting a new motor (used) and will do this work prior to installing it as it is easier when out of car. But never knew about cam oil seals and this might be why I lost all oil and motor died.
Hi Robert wished I'd seen this BEFORE putting the CVVT hubs back together today as I have a chronic leak on a 2005 XC70. Now I see from your video there's an inner O ring on the CVVT and you were right; Vida (dealer) doesn't list these O rings as a separate part.
I had a leak after doing mine, big time. It turned out to be a worn exhaust VVT pulley, it had 3-4 mm of play in it. New ones have about 1mm of play. Don't set the oil seal too deep, and you are good to go! EDIT: For clarification, the seal contacts the surface on the VVT pulley, not the cam. Therefore, if there is play it will pull away from the oil seal and leak. The o-ring, if leaking, would leak behind the oil seal.
Thanks for your detailed videos. I replaced the 4 timing shaft seals recently on my 2004 V40 Volvo due to oil leak on the exhaust seal only. Unfortunately a timing locking tool bolt inside the rear intact shaft was broken due to such tool poor quality. My Q. What is the possible effect if I leave the broken bolt there without extracting it although there is no seal installed before, but only tiny oil slug. Thanks again and please keep the hard works.
Great video a big help. I have a question though. On the intake cam the end opposite the sprocket should there be a oil seal under the cap? I am working on a 2001 volvo xc 70. Thank you for all your help.
Robert, I'm about to do this on a 99 V70XC (my daughter's) which has a VVT pulley on the exhaust cam and a regular pulley on the intake. To practice, I took a VVT gear/hub off at a pull-a-part. There doesn't seem to be any key or pin to fix the exhaust cam relative to the VVT hub -- there's just that big T55 bolt that goes right through the center of the VVT hub into the cam. I see the bolt is torqued down really tight, but what keeps the cam from drifting a little relative to the VVT hub? On a regular pulley, there are those three bolts, and the holes in the gear are elongated so the cam can drift a little relative to the gear until those three bolts are tight -- but I see where that can really lock the cam down relative to the gear since there are three bolts, and they are located some distance from the axis. With the VVT gear/hub there is only one T55 bolt and it is on the axis, so there's not much geometry helping the situation Stuart in Atlanta
Yup. More than once. And after looking at the disassembled parts I still don't see what keeps the camshaft from twisting relative to the VVT hub after everything is back together. I'm confident I can line up the marks, lock the cams, take off the VVT, replace the seals, put the VVT back like it was and torque the center bolt, but if the timing belt snatches hard on the gear and hub, why can't the hub rotate a little relative to the camshaft and screw up the timing?
Great videos Robert! My son's V40 broke a timing belt and now the crankshaft and cam shaft are out of alignment. Aside from the obvious things that need replacing like the timing belt, idler pulley, tensioner, and water pump, what else should I do? I'm concerned that while bringing everything back to timing, I will cause more damage to the valves or pistons. Any advise is welcomed.
@@RobertDIY I watched most of your videos regarding this type of volvo and they helped greatly. We took the valves out and we noticed that half of them were bent. Replaced all the valves with new ones, put new valve stem seals, new water pump, new thermostat, new timing belt idler pulley, new timing belt adjusting pulley, new camshaft seals, new exhaust side camshaft sprocket (old one was leaking oil), and new spark plugs. Put it all back together and the engine cranked over very nicely. It runs better than before. Thanks Robert for your great videos.
Thanks Robert - did you end up replacing the CVVT Camshaft Adjusting Hub? Looked like a lot of play and the one you installed looked a lot cleaner than the original. Thanks!
Smashing job done :-D, it will be happy as larry now. That vvt hub must have fly weights inside or similar, so at a higher engine rpm it adjusts the rotational position slightly, or im just talking crap.... lol normal for me :-D Looks like a dodgy game to set the cam timing, no deep punch marks on the cogs.
Has a small groove on the cam sprocket. There is a sensor on top of the head that reads the timing somehow. It adjust according to the torque I believe.
I believe the VVT actuates from a rise in oil pressure as the engine revs increase. I think I remember reading it advances by 3 degrees at about 3000rpm.
Thanks for the video! I have a 2004 XC90 2.5t. Did you use a cam locking tool on the rear side before and after you removed the VVT hub torx screws? Will the cams rotate when you break and loosen the torx screws on the VVT hub? Can I get away with not using the cam locking tool while removing and installing the torx screws on the VVT hub?
Robert DIY Yes, however I missed the part where you placed and used the lock tool. My apologies. I have made a lock tool out of 1 inch flat steel and am in process of completing the job. Thanks again for the great and thorough info!
Hey Robert I have a 2000 v70xc, you’ve helped me before with all my questions and I was wondering if you knew the part numbers for the intake(non cvvt) and exhaust(cvvt) cam seal on the passenger side of the engine, I’ve got a small oil leak and I want to fix it, thank you
The video is very informative. Now I want help with my volvo s40 none turbo 2000 model, I want to time the engine, the inlet sproket does not have mark, i replaced it few years ago and at the time someone advised me to correctly position the inlet cam camshalf from behind such that the groove aligns with the cylinder head line and with another little groove on the same cam pointing down or up , this is what I have now forgotened. Now i want the actual position of the inlet cam from behind, other things are in position, the outlet cam, main pulley is on the right mark down there. PLease help.
@@RobertDIY thanks, checking where the oil is coming from tomorrow. Just thought, if its the cam seals, I could put the cam lock on the back before removing the belt. That way all stays in place while I change the seals. Not done a timing belt or seals before so will keep the video close by. Your videos are great by the way, my go to for anything Volvo! Thanks for the great content.
Hi Robert, great video, very useful. I assume that 46mm is the ID of the O-ring. Are you able to confirm? Also, do you know the o-ring material? I assume NBR 70 will be sufficient, or do you need to use something like FPM/FKM/Viton? Thanks.
Thanks Robert, I feel confident enough to do this job myself. My seals are well and truly ruined. Are the red seals the same part number for both hubs/sprockets?
Hey Robert I have the same car with exaust only vvt i noticed you didnt show one critical part of this job which is you didnt show how you moved the spring loaded vvt back to position while installing the hub. How did you manage that by yourself?
Len The video is great as usual but still curious about what you found out about the tolerance for in and out play on the exhaust VVT. I seem to have about 1/16 of an inch. Is that excessive? Thanks!
Hey Robert good video, my question is how did you reset the timing on the com that was off a tooth and a half. Did you rotate it clockwise than installed the belt and then tighten the tension to set timing? It doesn't really show how you reset the timing.
So just turn cam sprocket to line up mark, then put on belt and tighten tensioner to so mark lines up? Thanks for your quick reply and great videos. Keep up the good work
Great video Robert 👍🏼👍🏼 am going to replace mine soon 06 XC90 2.5t . Can you list the tools needed aside from the camshaft locking tool please ? Thank you again for this information
Hmmm, that information should be in the beginning of the video. if not, you're also need a t-50, a torque wrench, in all of the tools needed to do the timing belt.
😀"Dude" - in that particular Volvo 2.5 l the two CAMSHAFTS sprocket are NOT spring loaded ! They are hydrolic. So to set the timing will kind of different, no backwards pressure...
Hi Robert, I have an 06 V50 2.4 naturally aspired. I have recently done the head gasket, but unfortunately the shop which did the service didn't warn me that the timing belt should be replaced. Now I have to do that job myself and I am great full for your videos. I also have now and then a check light with the code P026. I have replaced the VVT solenoid twice, so I think I might have to replace the VVT hub. Someone told me it could be only sludge in the hub and just cleaning it might solve the problem ( I don't know). I could replace the timing belt and use a sludge cleaning treatment in the engine to try to get away with the hub problem or do everything at the same time. What is your suggestion? Also, If I go with doing the timing belt only, I will need a tool to lock the cams. Will that cheap one that costs $15 and locks the front gears work or do I absolutely have to buy that one that locks the cams from behind and costs over $100? Also, to lock the crankshaft, will engaging the transmission in Drive work? Thank you and keep up the good and very informative work. Cheers.
Hi Robert, when installing the timing belt back on, do you rotate the exhaust vvti by hand and then slip the belt on it? Or is it better to loosen the cam tool to return the cam to its original position?
I have a quick question about the timing belt tensioner! After everything is all said and done and put back together and running, is it okay for the tension arm to bounce around a little? The roller on the tensioner seems to be perfectly stable, but the adjustment arm moves back and forth. I never looked at my tensioner before I took the belt off but running the engine with the cover off showed me that the new one moves around a little.
Hi Robert need your help purchased a 2000 s80 T6 crank no start replaced the camshaft positioning sensor car runs but crank is off … some times first crank runs other times have to crank it 4 or 5 times and smell plenty of gas ? Please let me know next move.. my mechanic & autozone says run it for a while it can correct it self ? Echeck and auto zone give same code P0013 ….thank you .. autozone says to replace ( VVT ) solenoid … any videos to look at for on that
So was that amount of in and out play in the VVT hub okay, or did you end up replacing it? It looks as though you did replace it, but I'm not sure if the unit you put back on was a new one or that you just cleaned up the old one well. Great video by the way. Very helpful
What happens if the intake cam does NOT move freely? I have been doing a timing on a 2007 Volvo s40 . The crank moves freely without the belt on . The exhaust moves freely. But the intake does not. What could be the issue?
@ To set the time, I turned with the belt on but the marks were off. It crank started and died. So I took off the timing belt and tried to spin the intake cam it made a ratcheting sound and now doesn’t move with or without the belt on
Hi Robert, i have a question.. I have a 99 v70 with the 2.4 non turbo model and needing a new VVT hub. Because of play and oil leakage. The one on te car is a black one and has the number 1275362 on it. But i have a exhaust vvt hub like yours laying around. Are those the same hubs with the same internals? Or are they completly different? Greetings
Curious.... you thought the exhaust VVT was bad 'cause of the axial play, but you did not replace it. I recently replaced mine so I was hoping to see you install a new one. I did not mark my preload, so I ended up being able to rotate 3 teeth to a fresh mark I made on my VVT. You think 3 teeth will give me a CEL? Man I hope not.
If it does just loosen the timing belt, move it a tooth, roll it over by hand 2 turns, them see if that corrects it. My mechanic said that they have a little play but not much.
The exhaust cam seal of my 2000 Volvo V70 XC AWD SE popped completely out of its housing and I drove for 20 miles like that no overheating no low oil light parkit got out came back huge puddle underneath the car was wondering if it's still worth trying to fix it
Robert DIY I've just changed my front cam seals on my 2003 2.5 turbo Volvo xc90. I had the cam locking tool in place, also made sure all 3 timing marks were lined up. Unfortunately I did not mark the vvt hubs. I installed everything and the engine will not start. Before I attempted to crank, I turned engine over by hand 4 times... No piston/valve contact. I'm assuming the time is slightly off, can you walk me through resetting the vvt hubs? I've recently rebuilt the entire engine, it fired with no issues... But I did not take off the hubs
I was just told on my 2000 s80 2.9 the vvt hub, timing belt and tensioner, front seals, crank shaft and seals on passenger side of motor will be $1900.00 to fix does that sound right?
Robert, when you removed the plug on the rear cam with the screwdriver (before you put the locking tool on), what do you replace that with? Obviously you can't reuse that plug because you put a hole in it. I checked online for a replacement but I can't find it. My father in law and I are attempting this procedure with not much knowledge on a dual cam system. I don't want to remove that plug without being able to replace it. Thanks!
I have one of these now that is leaking oil at the inner o-ring seal that is not sold separately, like you said here. It is infuriating that I had to order the entire part, costing over $200, for this one little seal that could be around a buck. The next challenge will be installing this. If the timing lines up after using the cam tool, then the timing should already be correct. I believe if you remove the timing belt after installing the cam tool, you should have no problem lining it up again, unless the cam itself retards after it is removed?
Yes, but I am installing a new one that has no timing marks. The original has the timing mark on it. So the real timing mark will be turning it clockwise from it's "relaxed" position? I understand what you are doing in the video, it's just installing a new one is where I am a little nervous.
Yes, got it in, but the check engine light came on again. On the s40, the sprocket doesn't move. Could it be the torque of the center bolt? I torqued it at 66 lbs., because someone on this thread said the s40 should be torqued at 66, not 88lbs. I don't know how true that is, and I cannot find the answer anywhere. As hard as it was to get off, I can only imagine it should be at 88lbs, but not sure. Would you happen to know? Thanks for your help, by the way, and your videos!
Put the crank sprocket on the mark and then make your own marks to the top cover. That's providing you haven't pulled the belt off of a running engine. Other than that you need to get the cam locking pool and set the timing up properly.
@@RobertDIY Thanks, my s80 has a bad oil leak and I believe it’s coming from one of the cam seals. I haven’t pulled the timing belt off yet but there doesn’t seem to be any marks on the hubs.
Hi Robert I'm working on my 1999 S80 2.4 5 cylinder Non Turbo. i got the cams lock with the camlocking tool. I got 1 vvt hub on the intake cam. and oil leaked out of of that vvt Hub, or the seal behind it. I'm also doing a complete ovehaul on the PCV system en chaged the Aw55-50 gearbox al this week. what i would like to know is how much axle play is allowed for a VVT Hub? I would like to avoid spending a other 325 euro's on a vvt hub since already spend 400 on a gearbox and 500 on all the other parts. i hope to finish after the weekend monday or thuesday. Plaese can you give the info on the VVT hub play.if possible in Metric since i'm from europe.
@@RobertDIY Thank you for your respons. i continue to work on my car tomorrow morning. I orded a new VVT hub just to be sure. dont want to do an other timing kit this year just because of an oil leak, Again thank yoy for sharing your expertise on Volvo's, and greetings from The Netherlands
@@RobertDIY Hi Robert thanks so much for all of your videos and responding to me today. I have 2000 xc70 turbo. I ordered my kit from fcp euro. INA-5310312100. I've watched all of the videos I could find. My first time doing timing, just feeling a lack of confidence and still don't understand setting the tensioner. Also bought the rear cam locking tool from CTA. Trying to be fully prepared.
hello robert. question i recently replaced my cam seals on my xc90 2005 . and fallowed your vid but for some reason i think im doing something wrong since i did the timing three times to see if i did something wrong. so this is what it does it turns good and runs good but when ever i try to step on the gas alittle it studders like if its chocking or timing is off. can you help.
let me try again .2000 volvo v70 xc awd se bf5244t motor.i was driving (middle of no where)see smoke coming from hood. no warning lights came on at all during incident.turn around drive 20 miles park car go into store come back out giant oil puddle under car?? .after checking with Robert and other you tube video my exhaust cam seal completely popped out of housing My question is this did i smoke this motor and is there a way to check it I love this car I want to fix it smartly new motor or these seals and pvc system dying to hear some feed back
Thanks for the link but the part in the video were the front of the engine was covered in oil you show a brush the tell us your going to spray it down then the you come back and the front where the belts would go are nice and clean ?
Hello Robert, hope your day is going better than mine. I recently rebuild my 2003 2.5 turbo xc90, after I got everything back together and the trans mated to the engine, I have what sounds like the flexplate it bound up or broken.. I put it in gear and it sounds like I'm forcing a manual into gear without pushing clutch.. Like grinding into gear. The engine runs extremely well after a complete rebuild.. just the flexplate problem.. Have you had this happen to you? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Replaced the WP last weekend and used just a gasket. No leaks. I also did the cam seals and used the tool as you stressed to use in another video. Your videos really helped. Thanks again Robert.
Just a note on this job.....Be careful with your cam locking tool if it is one of those made in China eBay jobs. Whilst I was doing my job, one of the bolts failed that tightens into the rear of the exhaust cam shaft. Clean sheared and I didn't even have it all the way in or tightened. I think the steel that they use for the bolts is very soft and of inferior quality (like most of what comes out of China). Now I have a job trying to extract the snapped bolt from the rear of the cam shaft. Bugger!!! I hope I don't have to remove the cam to get the broken bolt out as this will become a nightmare. The tool itself it not so much the problem, just the bolts. I would suggest taking the bolts to a fasteners shop and getting a quality pair of the same specifications made in the USA or anywhere else that isn't China.
HI I HAVE 2007 XC60 I REPLACE BOTH CAM HUP DUE LEAK OIL I UESD TOOL TO LOCK CAM AND CRANCK BUT I GET CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FOR P0016 CAM CORPRTION IS ANY WHY CAN IN GET THE PLAY ON HUP MARK AFTER REPLACE IT THANKYOU '
I do NOT know how to line those up RAW. I'm trying to get with the mechanic that I know to have him do a video. Other than that, which may never happen, you should have pre-marked the hubs before you took them off, etc. I suggest that you take the car to the dealer to have them properly set the timing. My guess the cost will be about $350.
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You don't want a critter dying in your turbo is some of the best advice Ive received this year!
LOL
More than usual you show your mechanical professionalism. Thank you. I saw that you did take the plastic nut off the wiring harness plastic case. I removed both of them and was able to pull the harness up the shock tower out of the way so I could get the T55 on the VVT pully without messing with jacking the engine up...Again, this is stressful work and it is so helpful to have your videos to reference.
Thanks for sharing
Over the weekend I bought a Volvo. I did everything you said to do in the video where you said the top things to check when buying a Volvo. The car passed! I'm glad I found your channel! Subscribed! The guy I bought the car from was a mechanic and as we were talking, he is subscribed to your channel. Have an awesome day Robert!
Very nice, thanks for watching.
I think you have just saved me around £500!!! just had a quote from my local garage to replace the timing belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, aux belt and the VVT pulley and they quoted m3 just over £700! after seeing your 2 videos I feel confident to tackle it myself. I like that you miss out the 20 minutes undoing each bolt and you give good camera angles to see what you are doing! keep up the good work boss!
Thanks for watching.
needed tell you this i have watched your videos for three years since i bought this car fixed numerous issues saved thousands of dollars god bless ya
Thanks for watching.
Robert, your videos are very informational and are greatly appreciated.
Replaced my timing belt and freshened up my turbo 10,000kms ago. Kicking myself I didn't know about these VVT hub o-rings as the car is now slowly leaking oil from them. You can see the spray inside of the upper timing cover.
I replaced every single other component including the cam seals as I thought it was one of them, now it seems I have to go back in for another go as it's getting worse.
+Joshua Burford ouch! Swedish Car Parts now sells them.
Thanks much for this video. NOW I understand the "dance" between the timing belt and the cam lock tool! Now it makes sense. Thanks again.
You're welcome!
One thing you might not have mentioned that I found was probably behind my cam seal leak besides normal wear. The PCV system. Putting a glove over the oil filler cap while idling and it inflated big time. That pressure is what was pushing oil through my seal. So I need to replace that too.
th-cam.com/video/t4gwoQTW9OE/w-d-xo.html
Thanks again, Robert! Your videos have been very helpful to me. Getting that timing right is a bit of a nerve wracking ordeal, particularly on my 06 that has two VVT pulleys. I was thrilled to be able to correct the problem without the involvement of a dealership or other mechanic.
Glad it helped.
Just did the cam seals and timing belt with lots of help from your Videos!! I didn't have the time to wait for the cam locking tool but I fabricated a piece for the backside to kind of hold them in place and then I used a cam sprocket tool for the front, there weren't any holes for the tool on the vvt exhaust valve but there was a way to kind of lock it in there behind the bolts.
Anyways I just wanted to say thanks your videos are very informative!! Cheers to you sir 🍻
You are welcome.
No need to lift the motor. If you remove the wiring harness from those studs on the strut tower, there's just enough room to fit a 3/8" T55 on a ratchet. The 1/2" is a little tight, though. I used the 1/2" for the actual bolt, but I had to use a 3/8" on the plug. After the VVT nightmare on my cousin's S70, I think I'm pretty good with the VVT now! Haha
+Alex P lol. When that mount is bad it's to tight.
Robert DIY Haha, I could see that being an issue.
Hold on a second...at 11:12 when Robert inspects the VVT hub he noticed some play in it and said he would check with his mechanic! This is like Superman needing to call for help! Man, who helps Superman? That must be a serious yoda-obe-one-kanobe-bruce-lee-chuck-norris-mr-T-lebron-james mechanic he's calling.
Oh yea, he's a super Volvo tech. 💪🏾 🤣🤣🤣
DUDE!!! When putting the tension pulley on you need to show what position to tighten it in. Theres hot, warm and cold positions. If thats not done right the belt can slip off while car is running. There are three notches on the pulley. First is cold. Middle is warm and third hot. Hold the tension release paddle on the notch of your engines temp when your doing this job while you tighten the bolt. Mostly we do these jobs while engine is cold which is the first notch.
Huh? What kind of tensioner are you working on? The part comes with instructions.
Just as a tip, when you put your T55 star and it is tight, don't waste your time jacking engine, get a surpentine service wrench, a flat tool with 3/8 square end for T55 socket, worked perfect. I am all about saving time and steps. Curious, anyone ever find a situation where you do not have a cam alignment mark on pulley sprocket? I found the one on exhaust with a microscope. lol, but nothing on intake pulley? I did find a small line in tooth on opposite side of pulley, anyone ever run into this before? Thanks for video Robert.
Thanks.
+Mike OSullivan no, but if the crank is aligned and you have the cam locking tool installed, yan get a file and make your own mark on the sprocket.
Hi Robert, you mention if the middle part of the VVT has in and out play it is bad. Did you get this confirmed? I have replaced the seal and when tightening it down (snugged) the hub will not move back and forth. But don't want to spend the 300 pounds sterling if I don't need to. Volvo c70 2004 convertible.
if it has to much play it will walk off of the cam seal and you'll have a leak.
Like many I really enjoyed your instructional video. You made the job less scary and very informative. I'm getting a new motor (used) and will do this work prior to installing it as it is easier when out of car. But never knew about cam oil seals and this might be why I lost all oil and motor died.
Ouch! Good to do it when out.
Hi Robert wished I'd seen this BEFORE putting the CVVT hubs back together today as I have a chronic leak on a 2005 XC70. Now I see from your video there's an inner O ring on the CVVT and you were right; Vida (dealer) doesn't list these O rings as a separate part.
Ouch! Hope you get it sorted out.
I had a leak after doing mine, big time. It turned out to be a worn exhaust VVT pulley, it had 3-4 mm of play in it. New ones have about 1mm of play. Don't set the oil seal too deep, and you are good to go!
EDIT: For clarification, the seal contacts the surface on the VVT pulley, not the cam. Therefore, if there is play it will pull away from the oil seal and leak. The o-ring, if leaking, would leak behind the oil seal.
Robert, where did you get your O ring? I need to get one for my XC70.
Thanks for your detailed videos. I replaced the 4 timing shaft seals recently on my 2004 V40 Volvo due to oil leak on the exhaust seal only. Unfortunately a timing locking tool bolt inside the rear intact shaft was broken due to such tool poor quality. My Q. What is the possible effect if I leave the broken bolt there without extracting it although there is no seal installed before, but only tiny oil slug. Thanks again and please keep the hard works.
No problem at all.
Good job. Thanks for taking the time to show us
You are welcome
Great video a big help. I have a question though. On the intake cam the end opposite the sprocket should there be a oil seal under the cap? I am working on a 2001 volvo xc 70. Thank you for all your help.
No, but adding one doesn't hurt.
Robert, I'm about to do this on a 99 V70XC (my daughter's) which has a VVT pulley on the exhaust cam and a regular pulley on the intake. To practice, I took a VVT gear/hub off at a pull-a-part. There doesn't seem to be any key or pin to fix the exhaust cam relative to the VVT hub -- there's just that big T55 bolt that goes right through the center of the VVT hub into the cam. I see the bolt is torqued down really tight, but what keeps the cam from drifting a little relative to the VVT hub?
On a regular pulley, there are those three bolts, and the holes in the gear are elongated so the cam can drift a little relative to the gear until those three bolts are tight -- but I see where that can really lock the cam down relative to the gear since there are three bolts, and they are located some distance from the axis. With the VVT gear/hub there is only one T55 bolt and it is on the axis, so there's not much geometry helping the situation
Stuart in Atlanta
Did you watch this video?
Yup. More than once. And after looking at the disassembled parts I still don't see what keeps the camshaft from twisting relative to the VVT hub after everything is back together.
I'm confident I can line up the marks, lock the cams, take off the VVT, replace the seals, put the VVT back like it was and torque the center bolt, but if the timing belt snatches hard on the gear and hub, why can't the hub rotate a little relative to the camshaft and screw up the timing?
Did you see that I installed the cam locking tool at around 5:00? Then I marked the play in the VVT at around 6:00?
Because you torqued the bolt back on.
Great videos Robert! My son's V40 broke a timing belt and now the crankshaft and cam shaft are out of alignment. Aside from the obvious things that need replacing like the timing belt, idler pulley, tensioner, and water pump, what else should I do? I'm concerned that while bringing everything back to timing, I will cause more damage to the valves or pistons. Any advise is welcomed.
Damage already done.
th-cam.com/video/hJIoyHLl30U/w-d-xo.html
@@RobertDIY I watched most of your videos regarding this type of volvo and they helped greatly. We took the valves out and we noticed that half of them were bent. Replaced all the valves with new ones, put new valve stem seals, new water pump, new thermostat, new timing belt idler pulley, new timing belt adjusting pulley, new camshaft seals, new exhaust side camshaft sprocket (old one was leaking oil), and new spark plugs. Put it all back together and the engine cranked over very nicely. It runs better than before. Thanks Robert for your great videos.
Thanks Robert - did you end up replacing the CVVT Camshaft Adjusting Hub? Looked like a lot of play and the one you installed looked a lot cleaner than the original. Thanks!
Nope
Smashing job done :-D, it will be happy as larry now.
That vvt hub must have fly weights inside or similar, so at a higher engine rpm it adjusts the rotational position slightly, or im just talking crap.... lol normal for me :-D
Looks like a dodgy game to set the cam timing, no deep punch marks on the cogs.
Has a small groove on the cam sprocket. There is a sensor on top of the head that reads the timing somehow. It adjust according to the torque I believe.
I believe the VVT actuates from a rise in oil pressure as the engine revs increase. I think I remember reading it advances by 3 degrees at about 3000rpm.
Cool, thanks for the info.
Great video, thinking of replacing the seals on my 2002 s40 where can I get the plastic cam covers for the back side?
+Allen Wilkinson the dealer and sites that sell Volvo parts.
+Allen Wilkinson th-cam.com/video/eYOsx9rcAhs/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video! I have a 2004 XC90 2.5t. Did you use a cam locking tool on the rear side before and after you removed the VVT hub torx screws? Will the cams rotate when you break and loosen the torx screws on the VVT hub? Can I get away with not using the cam locking tool while removing and installing the torx screws on the VVT hub?
Did you watch the video?
Robert DIY Yes, however I missed the part where you placed and used the lock tool. My apologies. I have made a lock tool out of 1 inch flat steel and am in process of completing the job. Thanks again for the great and thorough info!
Hey Robert I have a 2000 v70xc, you’ve helped me before with all my questions and I was wondering if you knew the part numbers for the intake(non cvvt) and exhaust(cvvt) cam seal on the passenger side of the engine, I’ve got a small oil leak and I want to fix it, thank you
No I don't.
The video is very informative. Now I want help with my volvo s40 none turbo 2000 model, I want to time the engine, the inlet sproket does not have mark, i replaced it few years ago and at the time someone advised me to correctly position the inlet cam camshalf from behind such that the groove aligns with the cylinder head line and with another little groove on the same cam pointing down or up , this is what I have now forgotened. Now i want the actual position of the inlet cam from behind, other things are in position, the outlet cam, main pulley is on the right mark down there. PLease help.
+Goabaone Moabi Seforo if the belt is still on, just make a mark on the cam with the cover.
Hi Robert, your videos are so helpful. I have a question. Can I put the cam locking tool on before I remove the timing belt to ensure nothing moves?
Sure
One on the front? Things will still move if you use the rear tool.
@@RobertDIY thanks, checking where the oil is coming from tomorrow. Just thought, if its the cam seals, I could put the cam lock on the back before removing the belt. That way all stays in place while I change the seals. Not done a timing belt or seals before so will keep the video close by. Your videos are great by the way, my go to for anything Volvo! Thanks for the great content.
Hi Robert, great video, very useful.
I assume that 46mm is the ID of the O-ring. Are you able to confirm?
Also, do you know the o-ring material? I assume NBR 70 will be sufficient, or do you need to use something like FPM/FKM/Viton?
Thanks.
I can't confirm, just get the seal.
Thanks Robert, I feel confident enough to do this job myself. My seals are well and truly ruined. Are the red seals the same part number for both hubs/sprockets?
I have no idea.
Greatly appreciated! This is very helpful. Thanks!
+leo cruz you are welcome
Hey Robert I have the same car with exaust only vvt i noticed you didnt show one critical part of this job which is you didnt show how you moved the spring loaded vvt back to position while installing the hub. How did you manage that by yourself?
I explained it. Can't hold the camera and do the work.
th-cam.com/video/0H5cgRYCMQg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Robert, this was very helpful. All the best!
+Phad Trader thanks
Rob's the Man!
Thanks for watching.
Great video dude! 👍 having some oilleak issues from the vvt myself and i think this video confirmed my thoughts that i susspected.
+Daniel Andersson hope you get it worked out.
Len
The video is great as usual but still curious about what you found out about the tolerance for in and out play on the exhaust VVT. I seem to have about 1/16 of an inch. Is that excessive? Thanks!
No
You can ask a real mechanic on a forum.
Hey Robert good video, my question is how did you reset the timing on the com that was off a tooth and a half. Did you rotate it clockwise than installed the belt and then tighten the tension to set timing? It doesn't really show how you reset the timing.
I turned it a tooth either direction and reset the tensioner. Mark is 1/2 tooth off which is not a big deal.
So just turn cam sprocket to line up mark, then put on belt and tighten tensioner to so mark lines up? Thanks for your quick reply and great videos. Keep up the good work
Great video Robert 👍🏼👍🏼 am going to replace mine soon 06 XC90 2.5t . Can you list the tools needed aside from the camshaft locking tool please ? Thank you again for this information
Hmmm, that information should be in the beginning of the video. if not, you're also need a t-50, a torque wrench, in all of the tools needed to do the timing belt.
😀"Dude" - in that particular Volvo 2.5 l the two CAMSHAFTS sprocket are NOT spring loaded ! They are hydrolic. So to set the timing will kind of different, no backwards pressure...
Hi Robert, I have an 06 V50 2.4 naturally aspired. I have recently done the head gasket, but unfortunately the shop which did the service didn't warn me that the timing belt should be replaced. Now I have to do that job myself and I am great full for your videos. I also have now and then a check light with the code P026. I have replaced the VVT solenoid twice, so I think I might have to replace the VVT hub. Someone told me it could be only sludge in the hub and just cleaning it might solve the problem ( I don't know). I could replace the timing belt and use a sludge cleaning treatment in the engine to try to get away with the hub problem or do everything at the same time. What is your suggestion? Also, If I go with doing the timing belt only, I will need a tool to lock the cams. Will that cheap one that costs $15 and locks the front gears work or do I absolutely have to buy that one that locks the cams from behind and costs over $100? Also, to lock the crankshaft, will engaging the transmission in Drive work? Thank you and keep up the good and very informative work. Cheers.
Replace the hub.
th-cam.com/video/0eSuvM6Bl7Y/w-d-xo.html
Did you watch this video?
Hi Robert, when installing the timing belt back on, do you rotate the exhaust vvti by hand and then slip the belt on it? Or is it better to loosen the cam tool to return the cam to its original position?
As shown in the video, I turn it by hand.
I have a quick question about the timing belt tensioner! After everything is all said and done and put back together and running, is it okay for the tension arm to bounce around a little? The roller on the tensioner seems to be perfectly stable, but the adjustment arm moves back and forth. I never looked at my tensioner before I took the belt off but running the engine with the cover off showed me that the new one moves around a little.
+BlueZomig yes
Hi Robert need your help purchased a 2000 s80 T6 crank no start replaced the camshaft positioning sensor car runs but crank is off … some times first crank runs other times have to crank it 4 or 5 times and smell plenty of gas ? Please let me know next move.. my mechanic & autozone says run it for a while it can correct it self ? Echeck and auto zone give same code P0013 ….thank you .. autozone says to replace ( VVT ) solenoid … any videos to look at for on that
th-cam.com/video/gt9w-ZSxs9I/w-d-xo.html
So was that amount of in and out play in the VVT hub okay, or did you end up replacing it? It looks as though you did replace it, but I'm not sure if the unit you put back on was a new one or that you just cleaned up the old one well.
Great video by the way. Very helpful
It was ok. I did clean it up and re-install it.
What happens if the intake cam does NOT move freely? I have been doing a timing on a 2007 Volvo s40 . The crank moves freely without the belt on . The exhaust moves freely. But the intake does not. What could be the issue?
You are NOT supposed to move any without the belt on. 🤷🏾♂️
@ To set the time, I turned with the belt on but the marks were off. It crank started and died. So I took off the timing belt and tried to spin the intake cam it made a ratcheting sound and now doesn’t move with or without the belt on
Hi Robert, i have a question.. I have a 99 v70 with the 2.4 non turbo model and needing a new VVT hub. Because of play and oil leakage. The one on te car is a black one and has the number 1275362 on it. But i have a exhaust vvt hub like yours laying around. Are those the same hubs with the same internals? Or are they completly different?
Greetings
sad to say, I have no idea.
swedishcarparts.com/parts/1734-volvo-vvt-hub-camshaft-timing-gear-seal-o-ring-gasket-9497786-seal-c70-s60-s70-s80-v70-xc70-xc90-variable-valve-hub-camshaft-pulley-vvt-seal
Hi Robert, another very informative video. Where did you get that camshaft alignment tool?
+John Kosar the cam locking tool?
+robert diy yes
Curious.... you thought the exhaust VVT was bad 'cause of the axial play, but you did not replace it. I recently replaced mine so I was hoping to see you install a new one. I did not mark my preload, so I ended up being able to rotate 3 teeth to a fresh mark I made on my VVT. You think 3 teeth will give me a CEL? Man I hope not.
If it does just loosen the timing belt, move it a tooth, roll it over by hand 2 turns, them see if that corrects it. My mechanic said that they have a little play but not much.
The exhaust cam seal of my 2000 Volvo V70 XC AWD SE popped completely out of its housing and I drove for 20 miles like that no overheating no low oil light parkit got out came back huge puddle underneath the car was wondering if it's still worth trying to fix it
Do you think you can buy a car for cheaper than a seal?
Could a bad exhaust vvt or vvt seal that is leaking cause exhaust smoke as well ?
I don't think so
th-cam.com/video/Qfece4bER7Q/w-d-xo.html
Hey so I just had my cam seals, pulleys and belt replaced. I'm getting a p0016 code. Would the work done be related to this ? 🤔
What is that code for?
@@RobertDIY it was for cam position fault - engine. It ended up being vvt solenoids
Robert DIY I've just changed my front cam seals on my 2003 2.5 turbo Volvo xc90. I had the cam locking tool in place, also made sure all 3 timing marks were lined up. Unfortunately I did not mark the vvt hubs. I installed everything and the engine will not start. Before I attempted to crank, I turned engine over by hand 4 times... No piston/valve contact. I'm assuming the time is slightly off, can you walk me through resetting the vvt hubs? I've recently rebuilt the entire engine, it fired with no issues... But I did not take off the hubs
Huh, did it fire up or not? Timing being off a little will not stop the car from starting. What is missing?
th-cam.com/video/YiPAPu-K8OI/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/gt9w-ZSxs9I/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/0H5cgRYCMQg/w-d-xo.html
I took off the vvt solenoids and cleaned with brake clean. Would that be the problem. And it tried to start a few times
I was just told on my 2000 s80 2.9 the vvt hub, timing belt and tensioner, front seals, crank shaft and seals on passenger side of motor will be $1900.00 to fix does that sound right?
Unfortunately, yes. That's why I DIY
Front seals are on the passenger side.
Robert, when you removed the plug on the rear cam with the screwdriver (before you put the locking tool on), what do you replace that with? Obviously you can't reuse that plug because you put a hole in it. I checked online for a replacement but I can't find it. My father in law and I are attempting this procedure with not much knowledge on a dual cam system. I don't want to remove that plug without being able to replace it. Thanks!
+WPDriver where did you check?
Robert DIY advance auto, AutoZone, Napa and a couple other local shops. Maybe I'm not searching correctly for It?
WPDriver nope, wrong places.
th-cam.com/video/eYOsx9rcAhs/w-d-xo.html
I have one of these now that is leaking oil at the inner o-ring seal that is not sold separately, like you said here. It is infuriating that I had to order the entire part, costing over $200, for this one little seal that could be around a buck. The next challenge will be installing this. If the timing lines up after using the cam tool, then the timing should already be correct. I believe if you remove the timing belt after installing the cam tool, you should have no problem lining it up again, unless the cam itself retards after it is removed?
+Paul Millar as the video shows, measure the play.
Yes, but I am installing a new one that has no timing marks. The original has the timing mark on it. So the real timing mark will be turning it clockwise from it's "relaxed" position? I understand what you are doing in the video, it's just installing a new one is where I am a little nervous.
The timing is about the cam not the sprocket. Get out a file, add a mark, then install it like the one that was pulled.
Yes, got it in, but the check engine light came on again. On the s40, the sprocket doesn't move. Could it be the torque of the center bolt? I torqued it at 66 lbs., because someone on this thread said the s40 should be torqued at 66, not 88lbs. I don't know how true that is, and I cannot find the answer anywhere. As hard as it was to get off, I can only imagine it should be at 88lbs, but not sure. Would you happen to know? Thanks for your help, by the way, and your videos!
If there are no marks on the exhaust and intake hubs, how would you find out where to mark them?
Put the crank sprocket on the mark and then make your own marks to the top cover. That's providing you haven't pulled the belt off of a running engine. Other than that you need to get the cam locking pool and set the timing up properly.
@@RobertDIY Thanks, my s80 has a bad oil leak and I believe it’s coming from one of the cam seals. I haven’t pulled the timing belt off yet but there doesn’t seem to be any marks on the hubs.
do i still need to lock the cams if replacing exhaust cam seal none vvt.
I don't even know what kind of car you have or if the seal is front or rear. 🤷🏾♂️
Hi Robert I'm working on my 1999 S80 2.4 5 cylinder Non Turbo. i got the cams lock with the camlocking tool. I got 1 vvt hub on the intake cam. and oil leaked out of of that vvt Hub, or the seal behind it. I'm also doing a complete ovehaul on the PCV system en chaged the Aw55-50 gearbox al this week. what i would like to know is how much axle play is allowed for a VVT Hub? I would like to avoid spending a other 325 euro's on a vvt hub since already spend 400 on a gearbox and 500 on all the other parts. i hope to finish after the weekend monday or thuesday. Plaese can you give the info on the VVT hub play.if possible in Metric since i'm from europe.
I put everything I know in the video my friend.
@@RobertDIY Thank you for your respons. i continue to work on my car tomorrow morning. I orded a new VVT hub just to be sure. dont want to do an other timing kit this year just because of an oil leak, Again thank yoy for sharing your expertise on Volvo's, and greetings from The Netherlands
Any video on how to set tensioner?
Did you watch the video? Which tensioner do you have?
th-cam.com/video/YpOYTVpzzic/w-d-xo.html
@@RobertDIY Hi Robert thanks so much for all of your videos and responding to me today. I have 2000 xc70 turbo. I ordered my kit from fcp euro. INA-5310312100. I've watched all of the videos I could find. My first time doing timing, just feeling a lack of confidence and still don't understand setting the tensioner. Also bought the rear cam locking tool from CTA. Trying to be fully prepared.
hello robert. question i recently replaced my cam seals on my xc90 2005 . and fallowed your vid but for some reason i think im doing something wrong since i did the timing three times to see if i did something wrong. so this is what it does it turns good and runs good but when ever i try to step on the gas alittle it studders like if its chocking or timing is off. can you help.
th-cam.com/video/NhtUXZTurzo/w-d-xo.html
Do you have a video on removing the cam cover on this engine any help would be appreciated I have a blown head gasket and would love to have it fixed
Did you search for cylinder head removal?
th-cam.com/video/gt9w-ZSxs9I/w-d-xo.html
let me try again .2000 volvo v70 xc awd se bf5244t motor.i was driving (middle of no where)see smoke coming from hood. no warning lights came on at all during incident.turn around drive 20 miles park car go into store come back out giant oil puddle under car?? .after checking with Robert and other you tube video my exhaust cam seal completely popped out of housing My question is this did i smoke this motor and is there a way to check it I love this car I want to fix it smartly new motor or these seals and pvc system dying to hear some feed back
Tow it home, replace the seal, fill the oil back up and don't worry about it.
If you never got a low oil warning, it's probably fine.
cool
Hey robert besides the nylon brush what did you use to get the engine so clean what product ?
I did not clean it.
th-cam.com/video/JgcaJJYAJEY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the link but the part in the video were the front of the engine was covered in oil you show a brush the tell us your going to spray it down then the you come back and the front where the belts would go are nice and clean ?
10:07 before and after
oileater.com/
Will in and out play on the exhaust vvt cause the engine to not turn on
No
Hello Robert, hope your day is going better than mine. I recently rebuild my 2003 2.5 turbo xc90, after I got everything back together and the trans mated to the engine, I have what sounds like the flexplate it bound up or broken.. I put it in gear and it sounds like I'm forcing a manual into gear without pushing clutch.. Like grinding into gear. The engine runs extremely well after a complete rebuild.. just the flexplate problem.. Have you had this happen to you? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
No, are you sure it's not the angle gear sleeve?
@@RobertDIY I have the angle gear completely uninstalled, would it make that noise without the angle gear on?
Probably not.
@@RobertDIY it's the flexplate Robert. Somehow I bent it installing the engine. Thanks for the advice
thank your Robert great job well done bless you
Thanks and thanks for watching.
camshaft seal replacement Volvo V70 where do I get the camshaft locking tool other than the dealer
+Terry Nobles Most Volvo parts suppliers like Swedish Car Parts.
Did you use any sealant on that water pump gasket?
NO
Replaced the WP last weekend and used just a gasket. No leaks. I also did the cam seals and used the tool as you stressed to use in another video. Your videos really helped. Thanks again Robert.
Vvt ruber ring what size is? The black one
+Carlos Martinez see the comments. Swedish car parts sells them.
Just a note on this job.....Be careful with your cam locking tool if it is one of those made in China eBay jobs.
Whilst I was doing my job, one of the bolts failed that tightens into the rear of the exhaust cam shaft. Clean sheared and I didn't even have it all the way in or tightened. I think the steel that they use for the bolts is very soft and of inferior quality (like most of what comes out of China). Now I have a job trying to extract the snapped bolt from the rear of the cam shaft. Bugger!!! I hope I don't have to remove the cam to get the broken bolt out as this will become a nightmare.
The tool itself it not so much the problem, just the bolts. I would suggest taking the bolts to a fasteners shop and getting a quality pair of the same specifications made in the USA or anywhere else that isn't China.
Nathan Cash lol my cam locking tool is a flat piece of steel welded from a buddy, works great
th-cam.com/video/3CTNiKlgdFA/w-d-xo.html
I'm changing just one cam seal. Do this require the cam locker tool
Which one? Which car?
+Robert DIY 01 s60. But I already found out I need it definitely. Thanks
HI I HAVE 2007 XC60 I REPLACE BOTH CAM HUP DUE LEAK OIL I UESD TOOL TO LOCK CAM AND CRANCK BUT I GET CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FOR P0016 CAM CORPRTION IS ANY WHY CAN IN GET THE PLAY ON HUP MARK AFTER REPLACE IT THANKYOU
'
+aly rady did you mark them before you removed them?
NO I ONLY MARK TIMING NOT CVVT PALY
I DID REMOVE AND REPLACE THEM AND I INSTALL NEW ONE BUT LIGHT IS ON ENGINE SOND GOOD
TIMING MARK IS GOOD BUT I THINK THA MARK ON CVVT INSIDE IS ANY WAY TO LINE UP THA NEW CVVT MARK PLAY
I do NOT know how to line those up RAW. I'm trying to get with the mechanic that I know to have him do a video. Other than that, which may never happen, you should have pre-marked the hubs before you took them off, etc. I suggest that you take the car to the dealer to have them properly set the timing. My guess the cost will be about $350.
Hello! I have a p1330 code in my Volvo S80 . What it could be? Can you help me please? Thank you
+David Leon I have no idea. Did you Google the code?
How do you take off the cam cover ?
Install cam locking tools, remove the timing belt, remove everything from the top of the engine, them remove all of the bolts that hold the cover on.
Thank you for this video, u saved my ass
Thanks for watching.
I have a 03 s60 non turbo why is my vvt hub on the opposite cam ?
Because that's how it was built/designed.
Thanks
You are welcome
I want eliminate VVT from my Volvo S40 T4 , can that be done?
I have no idea.
Best to ask over at ARDIDEAS, they can flash just about anything out of your ECU.
You can weld vvt so it gets stuck and dont move
But what if your Volvo doesn’t have a turbo and you can’t remove the charge pipe as it doesn’t exist🤣
Skip that step. 🤷🏾♂️