If you're going to do a review, please read the instructions on how to actually use the tool. The wheel needs to be seated all the way down on the cone. Also, you should split the weight 50/50 between the inside and outside of the wheel so you don't introduce a lateral vibration...unless you are using tape on weights in the middle of the wheel.
I've done about 16 car tires now on the HF changer and balancer and its worked great. No vibration to at least 80mph which is fine for the roads near me. 2 cheap Westlake tires gave me vibration issues at 70mph and even my local shop could not balance them correctly. I mounted up and balanced 8 Sumitomo /Cooper heavy 16" car winter tires this last winter and even with the thick treads, I was able to balance them spot on. After my local shop started charging misc fee's every time I had a tire mounted I decided to do it my self.
@JPS JPS They arent perfect but are better than nothing. They do work though surprisingly. Would I do on a newer car with nice rims? Probably not, but for a second car or winter beater it saves some cash. Plus you dont need to deal with the unfriendly shops that roll their eyes when you go in.
I think I have the same balancer and the specs show Machined aluminum head accepts hubs from 1-1/2" to 4" diameter The aluminum head is coned shaped, when you place the wheel with tire on the blancer the wheel is suppose to center itself using the cone shaped head which is spring loaded. You may need to push down the wheel/tire a bit to get it to center. If your wheel's center hole is less than 1-1/2 or more than 4" you will have problems trying to perfectly center a wheel. There shouldn't be any space between the wheel and balancer where they meet in the center. The spring are only there so wheel and tire can be centered on the head and not meant to be used when balance the wheel and tire. Also it's a good idea to lubricate the tip in the center with some oil type lubricant and to remove the head from the base when on in use as if the tip becomes damaged the balancer won't work correctly.
push the wheel down till the centre bore touches the cone, then let wheel come up gently without moving then it centres if its a light wheel, obviously if its heavier it will touch the balancer cone itself and stay there good review anyway, as i wanted to know if they were any good, and the fact that your wheels were out of balance and then balanced when refitted proves it works ok and people that take the piss about him saying the word bubble learn a different language and try it for yourself in chinese or japanese, see how that works for you
darren knowles I prefer these static balancers over dynamic balancing machines. I have had horrible luck with dynamic machines. These are pretty reliable, as long as you don’t have a crooked eye.
I've been mounting my own tires for years using the harbor freight tire mounting machine. I then would have the local tire shop spin balance them for between $5-10 a tire. On one occasion I drove away and down the highway for a few miles and I heard the weights fly off and hit my inner fender. I turned around to head back and I heard another one fly off. I took the van back and they replaced the weight. Since then I have just left the weights on the tires in the same position as they were with the old tires. That works ok but I do have some vibration at highway speed. After watching your review on the tire balancer I think I'll get one and balance them myself.
$5-$10 per tire for balancing is a good deal. My local shop charges $15 per tire! That's $60 for a set of 4 tires. That's more than the cost of this balancer already, just to balance the tires once.
I was going to get one on Ebay but the only one I say was $99 plus $10 shipping. Then I saw the same type of balancer at Home Depot for $79.95. You can have it sent to the store and pick it up there to eliminate the shipping cost.
Hey vuaeco, the bubble not being centered when you first took it out and set it on the pivot point has nothing to do with the ground being uneven (2:25) its simple physic with pivot point holding that top balancer. It has to do with the top balancer not being balanced out of the box, the bubble simply allows you to compensate for it (the flawed design of the wheel balancer (not weighted equally on all sides)).
Nice video. This is a simple balancer which shows which side of the wheel is heaviest. One then counter-balances it. But a true dynamic spinning balancer will tell you the inner and outer weight distribution. A spin balancer on the car will balance the whole wheel, tire, brake disc, and hub as a unit. Any or all of these components could be out of balance. Good job with definite results.
The "spin balancer" you're talking about probably cost an arm and a leg. This one pays for itself in just one time use. And it has a positive result. So it's good enough for me. I guess you can evenly distribute the weight by using half of the weight on the outer rim and the other half on the inside rim.
Thanks for your reply. I find your videos interesting. Here is an article to explain the difference between static and dynamic balancing. www.discounttiredirect.com/learn/tire-balancing. Your system works well for the price.
If you use the clip on weights split the difference & put one on each side in the same location. If you use stick on try to get it close to the middle.
IF YA WONT TO SEE HOW GOOD YOUR BUBBLE BALANCE IS WORKING, PUT A WHEEL ON THE BALANCES THAT HAS BEEN BALANCED AT THE GARAGE, then check where that bubble is going because this bugger is in balance , even if your balance is telling you the tire from the garage balance is off, well it is not off, it's ya balance that off set, now always remember where that bubble was, now do your wheels the same as this one was balanced even if it was out of balance on your balance, because it wasn't out, now, make sure when you balance your tires you always have to set your balance up nice as you have now, what i did is took my skill saw and cut some small wedges to stick under the balance to get the pole on the balance plum as i could , then check the bubble and make sure it is nice and in the center where is should be, now balance all your tires and when your balancing them remeber where that little bubble was when you had that tire on the balancer that was balanced at the garage put your bubble where that one was and you got it made in the shade, all your tires will be balanced perfect just as the one you got balanced at the garage. and now, always check to see if your tires got yellow our red dots on the facing of the tire, them dots always go facing out , and if you have only a yellow dot, then line that one right up in line with the valve on the rim of your tire, and if you have a red dot as well just forget about the yellow dot and line the red dot right up with the valve, and you will be punting little amount of led, if any. i just did our car around the last week in may here, steel rims with summer tires, didn't add a drop of led on any of my tires, and my 4 wheels are in perfect balance. and i mean perfect.
UPDATE: OK so I just tried what you suggested. But it didn't seem to work. I pushed down on the wheel to get the centerbore physically touch the cone of the balancer. It stayed down and didn't spring back up. The springs aren't strong enough to push the wheel back up I guess. So I gently pulled the wheel up so to make a gap between the cone and the centerbore and let the wheel float freely. Once the wheel was back up, it was not centered around the cone but tilted on one side. That was not what I expected at all. I tried a few more times but every time the centerbore of the wheel was detached from that cone, it's off centered and tilted on one side. This is worse than if I just do it by eyeballing the gap around the centerbore and the cone. I'm thinking for this to work, the bottom of the rim has to slide against the top part of the balancer. And since the wheel is heavy, it will not easily slide on that balancer. What do you think? Have you tried this before? I also read the 1-page manual but it didn't mention anything about pushing the wheel all the way down to touch the cone either.
It has to spring back up. If it doesn't then it's resting on the cone. There has to be a gap between the centerbore of the wheel and the cone. Nothing should touch anything else. It can't be balanced when it's resting on the cone.
@@vuaeco- Resting on the cone it´s what centers the wheel in the fist place. Where did you get the idea that "has to be a gap..."!! It makes no sense. Please revise your procedure. I´m surprised the manual it´s not clear about this point. Cheers
The rim is supposed to self center thats what the cone is for if the rim is not toaching the cone then the 4 shaft with the springs are binding then I would use some WD40 on them.
The problem is that the wheel must be exactly centered on the balancer. I think it is best to buy a conical spacer so that the wheel center hub is perfectly centered on the the balancer cone.
I have not bought one yet and I agree that is the weakness of this bubble balancer as in one must place the wheel exactly 100% in the center and not 99.8% I have read negative reviews on Amazon where they say that once it is balanced and they put the wheel back on again, it is no longer balanced and the reason is that they did not put the wheel back on in the same spot as the first time. Your cone idea sounds good as long as can get one the right size.
Why would you buy a conical cone spacer when the balancer is the cone,... you place the rim on the floating balancer and gently push down the rim on to the cone until it enters on the cone then slowly release the rim which is pushed back up by the springs an is now centered....
am looking for a balancer just like the one you have your balancer is inviting on the pivit pin right on the tip, this is the best bubble balancer you can buy because of the how the pivot pin is siting in the little dot up in side the balancer, would you know where i can buy one like you have sir,? please let me know thank you.
OK so I just tried what you suggested. But it didn't seem to work. I pushed down on the wheel to get the centerbore physically touch the cone of the balancer. It stayed down and didn't spring back up. The springs aren't strong enough to push the wheel back up I guess. So I gently pulled the wheel up so to make a gap between the cone and the centerbore and let the wheel float freely. Once the wheel was back up, it was not centered around the cone but tilted on one side. That was not what I expected at all. I tried a few more times but every time the centerbore of the wheel was detached from that cone, it's off centered and tilted on one side. This is worse than if I just do it by eyeballing the gap around the centerbore and the cone. I'm thinking for this to work, the bottom of the rim has to slide against the top part of the balancer. And since the wheel is heavy, it will not easily slide on that balancer. What do you think? Have you tried this before? I also read the 1-page manual but it didn't mention anything about pushing the wheel all the way down to touch the cone either.
sorry im just now seeing this. So, you have a light wheel. the springs are not there to press up on the wheel. it remains in contact with the cone because the cone is what centers the wheel. Volvo S80 and Silverado wheels are what i have balanced with the harbor freight balancer. The springs are only there to press back on the tool so it can be fully up before you put the next wheel on the balancer.
@@vuaeco your method obviously worked great. I thought he was right about the wheel touching the cone, but that would introduce a lot of friction that would stop it from bobbling under gravity as much as it should so the way you did it may be better.
@@vuaeco - "the balancer. It stayed down and didn't spring back up." To get the better out of this poorly made balancers. Make sure to not "harm" the centre point and respective saddle! A dab on lubricant in there. Just before doing a wheel will surely help reduce some friction. Unfortunately not much! Another point regarding what you have written. Lubricate the sliding rods under the springs. By far the best for that is SILICONE SPRAY! It won't gather dust and debris like oils and greases. ;-) Cheers
good day sir, i know this video is 9 month old tho, i was wondering if your balancer was working as mine is working, after i have the tire balanced i put the wheel back on the balancer again but now i put the wheel in a different place, what i mean is i turn the wheel so i have it on the balancer in a different place as the first time when i balanced the wheel, and every time i do this i have a different light spot, i did this like 20 time and have a different reading each time, so where is the right light spot on my wheels, lol, my car tires and rims fit on my trailer superficially, and my trailer got no brakes just baring and cones , and when i install my car wheel on the trailer and tightening up the lug nuts, give my wheel a little spin , leave it set for a few moments, the heavy spot of my wheel with all that other led removed, the heavy spot when right to the bottom, right where i wonted it to go, took my white chock marked the light spot added led so that my wheel stooped rotating , and this is how they balance the motor cycle tires and they are driving a lot faster then we are in our cars and they have no shaking or vibration nothing , couldn't balance a motor bike with this bubble balancer first turn you come to you shake so bad would end up in the woods , lol i am kinda happy and glad i have some way to balancer my wheels besides mr, bubble ferry bubble balancer , mine is the very same as you have sir, the only way that you can find out if your balancer is working the same as mine is , do the same test that i did , 1 would say i have about 50% with the bubble balancer, and a 150% balanced on my trailer , the bubble balancer is balancing the wheel of the right light spot of the wheel, this is why it is never going to be perfect balanced, so we need a 12 hundred droller trailer, and a 200. droller bubble balancer to save a few 100 bucks, but i love doing it the same even tho it's a pain in the big toe, i still save the money, lol but the funny thing when i bought the balancer they didn't ask me if i had bought the trailer first, and to make dubble sure my car wheel is going to fit on the trailer so that i can find the right light spot and that the bubble balancer is going to find like 25 light spots on 1 wheel, how we going to know what one to take to add our led waits, joke, i think it would have been a bit cheaper if i would have when with the computer balancer , not the bubble balancer and the trailer, lol
zmby once you calibrate/center the bubble, do not rotate the hub ANY, it will ruin your calibration, also be careful not to spin it when putting wheel on the hub. You can spend hours messing with it. I have found to just zero balancer, put tire on, balance it than your done. If you try to just keep turning it, it will drive you crazy! I have had that happen to me before, but never got any vibration from it. Did yours vibrate after you balanced?
@@dummkompf thats not the reason. Its always level, doesnt matter if the floor is level or not. The adjustment is to make the level parallel to the cone.
you can all tires balances and still vibration over time Alignment must be done. as with truck owner with bigger tire set tend to toe in that can cause some Shake
Dan Blythe false, you can squeeze them in with pliers to tighten them back up. They work fine. Most tire shops reuse lead weights, pay attention next time you get wheels balanced, they use old/used weights off other wheels/installs they’ve done. Also they usually put the old weights on the inner of your tire.
Sometimes the center of the wheel rim is not in the center !!!!!! Better machines bolt the wheel on with nuts as on the car. This is not a good way for balancing AND it does only half of the job!
There are so many errors is this video, it should be removed. The floor being level has nothing to with the calibration on the bubble, its irrelevant. The bubble calibration makes the level parallel to the plane of the cone only. The springs are only there to stop you damaging the tip by dropping the heavy tyre on the cone and dulling it and help centre on the cone. The tyre must touch the cone.
All of this type of ballancers does only sort of "static" ballancing ! It can not do dinamic balancing....rhus it does only half of the job....no good!!!!!
This is a completely worthless device don't even bother wasting your time and getting frustrated trying to get your wheels and tires balanced with this little toy.. .
you can all tires balances and still vibration over time Alignment must be done. as with truck owner with bigger tire set tend to toe in that can cause some Shake
Thank you for the great and informative video about wheel balancer! Greetings from Finland.
If you're going to do a review, please read the instructions on how to actually use the tool. The wheel needs to be seated all the way down on the cone. Also, you should split the weight 50/50 between the inside and outside of the wheel so you don't introduce a lateral vibration...unless you are using tape on weights in the middle of the wheel.
Great tip
Excellent video!!
The cone was intended to perform self alignment the wheel to the cone axis.
I saw it was suspended on the spring but directly in the cone.
good job bro, thanks I get one now
I've done about 16 car tires now on the HF changer and balancer and its worked great. No vibration to at least 80mph which is fine for the roads near me. 2 cheap Westlake tires gave me vibration issues at 70mph and even my local shop could not balance them correctly. I mounted up and balanced 8 Sumitomo /Cooper heavy 16" car winter tires this last winter and even with the thick treads, I was able to balance them spot on. After my local shop started charging misc fee's every time I had a tire mounted I decided to do it my self.
@JPS JPS They arent perfect but are better than nothing. They do work though surprisingly. Would I do on a newer car with nice rims? Probably not, but for a second car or winter beater it saves some cash. Plus you dont need to deal with the unfriendly shops that roll their eyes when you go in.
Good video. I bought mine on Ebay last week, and seems to work good, too. Thanks for well done video.
Great video thanks from London England 👍
I think I have the same balancer and the specs show
Machined aluminum head accepts hubs from 1-1/2" to 4" diameter
The aluminum head is coned shaped, when you place the wheel with tire on the blancer the wheel is suppose to center itself using the cone shaped head which is spring loaded. You may need to push down the wheel/tire a bit to get it to center. If your wheel's center hole is less than 1-1/2 or more than 4" you will have problems trying to perfectly center a wheel. There shouldn't be any space between the wheel and balancer where they meet in the center.
The spring are only there so wheel and tire can be centered on the head and not meant to be used when balance the wheel and tire. Also it's a good idea to lubricate the tip in the center with some oil type lubricant and to remove the head from the base when on in use as if the tip becomes damaged the balancer won't work correctly.
Thanks for your comment. The first thing I thought was will my rim center hole fit this tool.
Great video
Hell yea, awesome video! Thankya sir!
push the wheel down till the centre bore touches the cone, then let wheel come up gently without moving then it centres if its a light wheel, obviously if its heavier it will touch the balancer cone itself and stay there
good review anyway, as i wanted to know if they were any good, and the fact that your wheels were out of balance and then balanced when refitted proves it works ok
and people that take the piss about him saying the word bubble learn a different language and try it for yourself in chinese or japanese, see how that works for you
darren knowles I prefer these static balancers over dynamic balancing machines. I have had horrible luck with dynamic machines. These are pretty reliable, as long as you don’t have a crooked eye.
Can you balance the wheels upside down so the wheel weights can be mounted inside and not showing? Just a thought! Great video!
I've been mounting my own tires for years using the harbor freight tire mounting machine. I then would have the local tire shop spin balance them for between $5-10 a tire. On one occasion I drove away and down the highway for a few miles and I heard the weights fly off and hit my inner fender. I turned around to head back and I heard another one fly off. I took the van back and they replaced the weight. Since then I have just left the weights on the tires in the same position as they were with the old tires. That works ok but I do have some vibration at highway speed. After watching your review on the tire balancer I think I'll get one and balance them myself.
$5-$10 per tire for balancing is a good deal. My local shop charges $15 per tire! That's $60 for a set of 4 tires. That's more than the cost of this balancer already, just to balance the tires once.
@@vuaeco $60 is cheap, now my local shop charge me $120 to mount and balance 4 tires + tires disposal fee
I was going to get one on Ebay but the only one I say was $99 plus $10 shipping. Then I saw the same type of balancer at Home Depot for $79.95. You can have it sent to the store and pick it up there to eliminate the shipping cost.
I love the different sense of humour :) Good instruction. Thnx
how do you put the weights on
Hey vuaeco, the bubble not being centered when you first took it out and set it on the pivot point has nothing to do with the ground being uneven (2:25) its simple physic with pivot point holding that top balancer. It has to do with the top balancer not being balanced out of the box, the bubble simply allows you to compensate for it (the flawed design of the wheel balancer (not weighted equally on all sides)).
great sense of humor
Nice video. This is a simple balancer which shows which side of the wheel is heaviest. One then counter-balances it. But a true dynamic spinning balancer will tell you the inner and outer weight distribution. A spin balancer on the car will balance the whole wheel, tire, brake disc, and hub as a unit. Any or all of these components could be out of balance. Good job with definite results.
The "spin balancer" you're talking about probably cost an arm and a leg. This one pays for itself in just one time use. And it has a positive result. So it's good enough for me. I guess you can evenly distribute the weight by using half of the weight on the outer rim and the other half on the inside rim.
Thanks for your reply. I find your videos interesting. Here is an article to explain the difference between static and dynamic balancing. www.discounttiredirect.com/learn/tire-balancing. Your system works well for the price.
If you use the clip on weights split the difference & put one on each side in the same location. If you use stick on try to get it close to the middle.
IF YA WONT TO SEE HOW GOOD YOUR BUBBLE BALANCE IS WORKING, PUT A WHEEL ON THE BALANCES THAT HAS BEEN BALANCED AT THE GARAGE, then check where that bubble is going because this bugger is in balance , even if your balance is telling you the tire from the garage balance is off, well it is not off, it's ya balance that off set, now always remember where that bubble was, now do your wheels the same as this one was balanced even if it was out of balance on your balance, because it wasn't out, now, make sure when you balance your tires you always have to set your balance up nice as you have now, what i did is took my skill saw and cut some small wedges to stick under the balance to get the pole on the balance plum as i could , then check the bubble and make sure it is nice and in the center where is should be, now balance all your tires and when your balancing them remeber where that little bubble was when you had that tire on the balancer that was balanced at the garage put your bubble where that one was and you got it made in the shade, all your tires will be balanced perfect just as the one you got balanced at the garage. and now, always check to see if your tires got yellow our red dots on the facing of the tire, them dots always go facing out , and if you have only a yellow dot, then line that one right up in line with the valve on the rim of your tire, and if you have a red dot as well just forget about the yellow dot and line the red dot right up with the valve, and you will be punting little amount of led, if any. i just did our car around the last week in may here, steel rims with summer tires, didn't add a drop of led on any of my tires, and my 4 wheels are in perfect balance. and i mean perfect.
Nice one good stuff,o and puting your tire on use some soap make it easy see ya,Piet
Thanks Piet.
If you push harder on the balancer, it will center wheel automatically due to the cone in the center, will not?
Great idea. I'll try that and let you know.
UPDATE: OK so I just tried what you suggested. But it didn't seem to work. I pushed down on the wheel to get the centerbore physically touch the cone of the balancer. It stayed down and didn't spring back up. The springs aren't strong enough to push the wheel back up I guess. So I gently pulled the wheel up so to make a gap between the cone and the centerbore and let the wheel float freely. Once the wheel was back up, it was not centered around the cone but tilted on one side. That was not what I expected at all. I tried a few more times but every time the centerbore of the wheel was detached from that cone, it's off centered and tilted on one side. This is worse than if I just do it by eyeballing the gap around the centerbore and the cone. I'm thinking for this to work, the bottom of the rim has to slide against the top part of the balancer. And since the wheel is heavy, it will not easily slide on that balancer. What do you think? Have you tried this before?
I also read the 1-page manual but it didn't mention anything about pushing the wheel all the way down to touch the cone either.
vuaeco Its not supposed to spring back up, push it down, the cone will centre the wheel evenly, and leave it at that, don't lift it back up.
It has to spring back up. If it doesn't then it's resting on the cone. There has to be a gap between the centerbore of the wheel and the cone. Nothing should touch anything else. It can't be balanced when it's resting on the cone.
@@vuaeco- Resting on the cone it´s what centers the wheel in the fist place.
Where did you get the idea that "has to be a gap..."!! It makes no sense.
Please revise your procedure. I´m surprised the manual it´s not clear about this point.
Cheers
The rim is supposed to self center thats what the cone is for if the rim is not toaching the cone then the 4 shaft with the springs are binding then I would use some WD40 on them.
The problem is that the wheel must be exactly centered on the balancer. I think it is best to buy a conical spacer so that the wheel center hub is perfectly centered on the the balancer cone.
I have not bought one yet and I agree that is the weakness of this bubble balancer as in one must place the wheel exactly 100% in the center and not 99.8%
I have read negative reviews on Amazon where they say that once it is balanced and they put the wheel back on again, it is no longer balanced and the reason is that they did not put the wheel back on in the same spot as the first time. Your cone idea sounds good as long as can get one the right size.
Why would you buy a conical cone spacer when the balancer is the cone,... you place the rim on the floating balancer and gently push down the rim on to the cone until it enters on the cone then slowly release the rim which is pushed back up by the springs an is now centered....
am looking for a balancer just like the one you have your balancer is inviting on the pivit pin right on the tip, this is the best bubble balancer you can buy because of the how the pivot pin is siting in the little dot up in side the balancer, would you know where i can buy one like you have sir,? please let me know thank you.
zmby bought mine off amazon www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMDT96/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i bought one like this balanser ,,but nerver use ,difficult ..best way balanse maskin
Half of the weight should go to the other side of the wheel so when it rolls it's will roll smoothly.not just the outside of your wheel.
All of these balancers only accommodate up to a 4 inch rim hole. Does anyone know if it's possible to balance a rim with a 5 inch center hole?
@jubjub247, thanks.
Grande
You are supposed to push down all the way where the wheel touches the cone man!!
OK so I just tried what you suggested. But it didn't seem to work. I pushed down on the wheel to get the centerbore physically touch the cone of the balancer. It stayed down and didn't spring back up. The springs aren't strong enough to push the wheel back up I guess. So I gently pulled the wheel up so to make a gap between the cone and the centerbore and let the wheel float freely. Once the wheel was back up, it was not centered around the cone but tilted on one side. That was not what I expected at all. I tried a few more times but every time the centerbore of the wheel was detached from that cone, it's off centered and tilted on one side. This is worse than if I just do it by eyeballing the gap around the centerbore and the cone. I'm thinking for this to work, the bottom of the rim has to slide against the top part of the balancer. And since the wheel is heavy, it will not easily slide on that balancer. What do you think? Have you tried this before?
I also read the 1-page manual but it didn't mention anything about pushing the wheel all the way down to touch the cone either.
sorry im just now seeing this. So, you have a light wheel. the springs are not there to press up on the wheel. it remains in contact with the cone because the cone is what centers the wheel. Volvo S80 and Silverado wheels are what i have balanced with the harbor freight balancer. The springs are only there to press back on the tool so it can be fully up before you put the next wheel on the balancer.
@@vuaeco your method obviously worked great. I thought he was right about the wheel touching the cone, but that would introduce a lot of friction that would stop it from bobbling under gravity as much as it should so the way you did it may be better.
@@vuaeco - "the balancer. It stayed down and didn't spring back up."
To get the better out of this poorly made balancers. Make sure to not "harm" the centre point and respective saddle! A dab on lubricant in there. Just before doing a wheel will surely help reduce some friction. Unfortunately not much!
Another point regarding what you have written. Lubricate the sliding rods under the springs. By far the best for that is SILICONE SPRAY! It won't gather dust and debris like oils and greases. ;-)
Cheers
good day sir, i know this video is 9 month old tho, i was wondering if your balancer was working as mine is working, after i have the tire balanced i put the wheel back on the balancer again but now i put the wheel in a different place, what i mean is i turn the wheel so i have it on the balancer in a different place as the first time when i balanced the wheel, and every time i do this i have a different light spot, i did this like 20 time and have a different reading each time, so where is the right light spot on my wheels, lol, my car tires and rims fit on my trailer superficially, and my trailer got no brakes just baring and cones , and when i install my car wheel on the trailer and tightening up the lug nuts, give my wheel a little spin , leave it set for a few moments, the heavy spot of my wheel with all that other led removed, the heavy spot when right to the bottom, right where i wonted it to go, took my white chock marked the light spot added led so that my wheel stooped rotating , and this is how they balance the motor cycle tires and they are driving a lot faster then we are in our cars and they have no shaking or vibration nothing , couldn't balance a motor bike with this bubble balancer first turn you come to you shake so bad would end up in the woods , lol i am kinda happy and glad i have some way to balancer my wheels besides mr, bubble ferry bubble balancer , mine is the very same as you have sir, the only way that you can find out if your balancer is working the same as mine is , do the same test that i did , 1 would say i have about 50% with the bubble balancer, and a 150% balanced on my trailer , the bubble balancer is balancing the wheel of the right light spot of the wheel, this is why it is never going to be perfect balanced, so we need a 12 hundred droller trailer, and a 200. droller bubble balancer to save a few 100 bucks, but i love doing it the same even tho it's a pain in the big toe, i still save the money, lol but the funny thing when i bought the balancer they didn't ask me if i had bought the trailer first, and to make dubble sure my car wheel is going to fit on the trailer so that i can find the right light spot and that the bubble balancer is going to find like 25 light spots on 1 wheel, how we going to know what one to take to add our led waits, joke, i think it would have been a bit cheaper if i would have when with the computer balancer , not the bubble balancer and the trailer, lol
zmby once you calibrate/center the bubble, do not rotate the hub ANY, it will ruin your calibration, also be careful not to spin it when putting wheel on the hub. You can spend hours messing with it. I have found to just zero balancer, put tire on, balance it than your done. If you try to just keep turning it, it will drive you crazy! I have had that happen to me before, but never got any vibration from it. Did yours vibrate after you balanced?
I never got a tire unbalance itself, so no idea why yours are.
It doesn’t matter if the floor is level or not
not after you adjust it. He was explaining that the unlevel floor was the reason the bubble had to be adjusted to get it to the middle at the start
@@dummkompf thats not the reason. Its always level, doesnt matter if the floor is level or not. The adjustment is to make the level parallel to the cone.
I get vibration at 55mph , at 160 its fine
Smoke some weed and drink some alcohol, it'll still be fine at 260. :D
well just drive 160 all the time then.
Excactly the same for me
typical customer
Io ho accorciato leggermente le molle cosi il cerchio entra nel cono centrandosi direi che funziona bene
you can all tires balances and still vibration over time Alignment must be done. as with truck owner with bigger tire set tend to toe in that can cause some Shake
Unbelievable that no one reads the instructions on how to centre the rim on the balancer so it is exactly in the middle floating on the pin!
Very helpful. You sound like Yan can cook. Nice video.
Old video i know but you never re-use wheel weights because the tension of weight clip has been altered. Witch causes weights to fly off.
Dan Blythe false, you can squeeze them in with pliers to tighten them back up. They work fine. Most tire shops reuse lead weights, pay attention next time you get wheels balanced, they use old/used weights off other wheels/installs they’ve done. Also they usually put the old weights on the inner of your tire.
Ok. I think im going to purchase the balancer. But if it dont work. YOUR GOING TO REFUND MY MONEY. LOL
You'll have to pay me first then.
Just turn the damn tire and it be in the center
Sometimes the center of the wheel rim is not in the center !!!!!! Better machines bolt the wheel on with nuts as on the car. This is not a good way for balancing AND it does only half of the job!
Cool, do it yourself save $.. tire shop $10 each tire..
Do it yourself Save$$ Money then return it and you gots yourself a free tire balancing job. Harbor Freight Sells them.
If it doesn’t self center, it’s no good
Steve Langston
What?
You got lucky. All of them now have off centered indentation and are complete garbage.
There are so many errors is this video, it should be removed. The floor being level has nothing to with the calibration on the bubble, its irrelevant. The bubble calibration makes the level parallel to the plane of the cone only. The springs are only there to stop you damaging the tip by dropping the heavy tyre on the cone and dulling it and help centre on the cone. The tyre must touch the cone.
th-cam.com/video/oAVCrdpxZnU/w-d-xo.html
You are doing it wrong. Please reas the instructions
Dont works
All of this type of ballancers does only sort of "static" ballancing ! It can not do dinamic balancing....rhus it does only half of the job....no good!!!!!
tell me you are viet without telling me you are viet.
bullshit the way you balance those tires will never works.
These balancers are garbage. The readings are always different if you put it back on the balancer after balancing.
This is a completely worthless device don't even bother wasting your time and getting frustrated trying to get your wheels and tires balanced with this little toy.. .
you can all tires balances and still vibration over time Alignment must be done. as with truck owner with bigger tire set tend to toe in that can cause some Shake