Before I'd like to congratulate you, hardly sees young people with their talent and commitment, I would like to thank for their advice and tips and would just like to share with you my experience, I simply introduced a garbage bag higher than the same compartment, so the bag does not rip. Greetings from Brazil.
Marius, here's a trick I've seen in Industrial films: Get a digital clock, one with BIG numbers. Set it to12:00, and start it when the demonstrated "action" begins. Then the viewer can get a really good demonstration of the true elapsed time, even when you speed it up to save "web time". A clock with a sweep second hand woks almost as well, as long as it is big enough that the second hand can be seen. Your new blower is really impressive. Have you measured the air speed (and volume) it gets? I don't know if you know about manometers, but they are simple to make and can get you good readings.
neelode I thought about that, but my camera can only record up to 30min... I would need a time-laps camera for that to work properly.No, I didn't measure anything. Maybe I build a manometer in the future.
Marius Hornberger COME ON, Marius, we're talking here about a demo of the suction of your cyclone, or something along those lines, not a feature length film. How long did it take you to suck up the sawdust? A minute or so? Likewise with the other things you did in your 10 minute video...
Very good job on the whole project! I suggest a metal trash can as your dust bin to catch all the dust and chips. The metal can won't get sucked in on itself like the bag does. Even a plastic trash can like someone else mentioned can get sucked in on itself when you have a powerful suction on it. The metal trash cans can be bought very cheaply and come in 30 gal or even smaller as in the size of your wooden bin. Overall you did an awesome job!
When you hooked the small hose to the cyclone, it is in an neutral vacuum area. If you connect it to the vacuum side with a valve in line you can control how much vacuum is applied to the bag. Or if it was inline with the flow of the spiral area, add a venturi to create a vacuum on the hose going to the bag. That will keep the bag inflated also
Marius Hornberger would something like the heavy metal foil tape used for duct work be more easily put in place there to seal the seam? (taped as smoothly as possible to the INSIDE of it....)
If you're interested in drawing, without software, a flat pattern for your spiral flights an ellipse can help. Actually the ellipse changes as the spiral progresses from start to finish but it's not difficult. Think conic sections, planetary orbits, Kepler and later Newton a wee bit. Couple nails and a loop of string guiding your pencil help too. Keep trying your ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Gday from Australia, nice job on the cyclone. To stop the bag collapsing and equalise the pressure I put the outlet of the small tube on the inlet before the cyclone
The more suction you have on the outside on the bag, the more the bag will try to expand. As dennis binyon said, 'equalise' is an important keyword. The more air-tight your chamber is (eg. the outer box containing the bag), the less the bag will contract. Imagine that air is sucked in from the outside through a hole in the bottom of the cabinet, then the bag will easily contract. Changing the direction of the same hole in the bottom would help avoiding it; the more suction, there, the better. Think about it and make a few drawings on a piece of paper; I'm pretty sure you'll get this right!
at 7:10 you said "no way to clamp it". Just a quick tip - you can use a little bit of hot glue to keep things clamped in place while the other glue dries.
If you were to move the top of the 'balance tube' from the middle of the cone to the inlet tube of the blower, there would be slightly lower pressure on the outside of the bag than the inside. The bag would therefore be held open. No more need for stick frame thing. You would need to keep the dust-box at the bottom clean and have no splits in the bag, also fit a small filter-trap in line with the tube.
I believe that your plastic colection bag could avoid being collapsed by putting a blanket of your filter material on the inside wall between the inside of the box and the outside surface of the bag, allowing equal pressure on all bag surfaces. Good luck.
I've watched a lot of your videos this I know this is an older one its really neat to see how you shop has developed over the time. But to hold things together until epoxy sets I use a few wraps of electrical tape it is strong enough to hold most parts together till the glue sets and won't leave a residue on most things if removed in the first few days.
Your tube needs to go to from the bag box to the fan intake - it doesn't carry dust, just equalizes pressure so the fan intake has the lowest pressure in the system.
I see Marius and Matthias as being two very different people. Yes, they both do awesome woodworking, but I'd rather watch Marius' videos, because he's paying much more attention to safety, plus he has much more inner peace.
Excellent work. With a larger shop, and all the tools i bet you could build anything. Stay on track. Let us know if you improve the collector bag deflection tube. Although the wooden cage seems to work good.
To prevent the bag collapse, you need to balance the air pressure with the cyclone output tube--the input to the impeller.The side of the cyclone won't do--it is a point of mechanical high pressure.
For acryllic you will only need water, but for silicone you'll also need soap (and try using gloves if you can, because silicone can't be washed off of your hands, you have to scrape or sand it off; gloves saves you so much trouble).
4:28 nice! i've been thinking common cyclones somehow has missed opportunities like this one. i mean, the inlet can be slightly angled down so that fine particles has more energy going down
I think that you are very talented young man great ideas keep them coming I'll be trying to build the large dust collector love the use of ply and parts that can be found any where. Keep it up and well done
Marius, to clamp that thing to the side of the cyclone, instead of holding it, make a piece sort of like a screen door handle, only out of wood, and drill a hole through it for a bolt. The "wooden screen door pull" will bridge the hole on the INSIDE of the cyclone.. The bolt will extend through the inside of the fitting, through another small block of wood, and a washer, and then a nut on the bolt will clamp the thing together until the epoxy sets up.... Make sense?
Marius - great work, you continue to impress me. :) I value that you keep your videos to the essential so people like me don't fall asleep; you keep things interesting while paying attention to details - and you always seek improvement. I would like to suggest that you build yourself an oscillating spindle sander, because you're making a lot of circular cuts. Combining that with your scroll saw should give you super smooth inner circles. (There are a lot of inspiring videos on TH-cam for oscillating spindle sanders; they're not too hard to build - you could even mount an old drill in a table for starters).
Congratulations for your work. Instead of putting in the spiral, I would have thought that it would have been simpler ( in original work) to have angled down the intake nozzle to such an angle that in one turn the debris would have just cleared the lower part of the intake nozzle. As the spiral is fitted, if one goes into details, there are a lot of interesting dynamic behaviour including slight vortices on the first upper part of the spiral generated by the upcoming air. Rather complex to analyse,
Hello Marius, Not sure if it is really needed the second outer small tube. I would invite you to test and disconnect the outer tube. I like your work very good!!!
...cut it out very carefully with he scroll saw... What puzzles me is why you didn't use a circle cutting jig for your router? I make circles - both "interior" - i.e. I want the outer part, such as you are doing, and "exterior" - i.e. I want the part that is in the middle, as for a round table top, etc. all the time. It is simple, rapid, and exceedingly accurate. (And it doesn't take a piece of equipment I don't have - i.e. a scroll saw.) I have cut circles - both kinds as small as three inches across to, believe it or not 20 FEET across. That one was cutting the planking for a circular deck that a friend and I built for him.
neelode It takes time to setup the router. The scroll saw is always ready to use. I also wasn't sure about the exact inside diameter and once the pivoting point in the middle is missing, I can't use the router anyways.
What is causing the increase in noise, is the fact you made you blower bigger. Yeah I know what you are thinking, "Duh!!" lol Try using insulating form around your blower, and that may work. This just popped into my mind. Find out the frequency of the sound of your blower, when it is on full. Then have a speaker next too the blower, feeding the same frequency. They may cancel each other out.
Interesting idea, but unfortunately I don't have the equipment to try this out. It is just an oversized impeller in an undersized blowerhousing. Just need to make a bigger blowerhousing.
Marius Hornberger you could try the trick Mathias Wandel does on his channel with the blower he built....try holding various cans & containers of different sizes across the exit. When you find one that's the right size, it'll create a counter-resonance and reduce the noise significantly
Hi Marius, I really love the ability and detail you put into your work. I'm really looking forward to see what your going to do with the x-carve you just got. If it's not too much to ask, would you be able to send me the plans to your shop vac, I would really appreciate it. Thank you in advance! :)
Hi Marius, even I don’t have a shop and therefore no dust collector. I got a question anyway about it: would it make sense, if the duct/pipe leading into the cyclon already has an angle towards the bucket? So dust particles already move in the correct direction and gravity don’t have to the complete job on its own. Maybe you can give it try or if you know the outcome already, let us know. Greetings, Hendrik
Tag Marius. Would It not be better to get a 200 liter plastic drum as the dust bag, that way it won't deflect. Ask at the farmers or maybe medical. Futtertonne is the right word. Plus side is that you can attach wheels easily, it has a self sealing top too. I use some for outside storage and have yet had one to fail.
Hi Marius, Ich bin grade dabei deine wundervolle Absauganlage nach zu bauen. Nun habe ich ein par Fragen: wie stark und woraus ist das Blech aus dem der Zyklon besteht, gibt es SketchUp Dateien für das neue Gebläse (das ganz neue)? Danke son mal im voraus!
Hi MariusYour work is very impressive and the videos very informative. I am currently installing better dust extraction in my own workshop, but I am struggling with how best to filter the air coming out of the cyclone. Obviously a lot of people use the cartridge type filters that are also fitted to some commercial dust extractors, but these are very expensive. It looks like you are using panel filters, what sort of efficiency do these give in terms of percentage of small particues removed and do you find that they result in a significant reduction in pressure in the system? What filters dis you choose to use and are you just using felt as a pre filter (seems from the video you cover them when you slot them in)?Sorry for all the questions, but would be interested in your answers and / or thoughts.
+T Radford These filters are great. Find them here: www.amazon.com/Fellowes-HF-230-AP-230PH-Purifier-9370001/dp/B0067D7CSC/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1457706542&sr=8-3&keywords=hepa+fellowes I covered this filter topic in more detail in a newer video here: th-cam.com/video/tREMRr81olg/w-d-xo.html
watched the two parts to your video and was good to watch. im not sure but is that only used just to collect sawdust? if so its a big thing just to collect sawdust lol a good hoover would do a good job. again good video :)
Thank you! I didn't learn woodworking and I also didn't have any woodworking lesson. A lot " learning by doing". I also watch a lot of other TH-cam woodworkers and so I could see some projects and techniques to try out myself.
You can maby try to build a gear to step up the speed. You can also try a DC or universal motor and then you'll get very high speed. You did a very good job! :-)
I missed where you acknowledged Bill Pentz' cyclone design seeing how yours is a copy in great degree. If you did, please ignore me as I hurried thru portions. Copying Matthias style is evident to many and seems to fit you.
+Gaston Laidano Si hay unos respuestas puedes traducir ellos tu mismo con Google translator. The commenter asks how the spiral and the filters function.
Marius Hornberger Young man, you are well beyond your years in knowledge. At 20 you are 2.5 times younger than me so "kid" fits by age but in no derogatory way....I think Wiz Kid is more appropriate ;-). You are doing excellent work in your shop and with the videos. Much appreciated! Question: Are you currently attending University or are you one of those who finished college before most people finish high school ;-). Cheers from USA!
Well, thank you very much! As I'm from Germany, our school system is a little different. But I passed my "Abitur" (A-levels) with 18. Right now I'm waiting for my place at university.
Marius Hornberger Congratulations! You will do very well. Good luck with studies and continue your woodworking/creating passion as well. I can all tell how much you enjoy working in your shop!!!!
+D Nesser Nice for postage stamps, perhaps not much else. The rotor vanes that Marius made were secured with what appears to be a PVA glue, that too is a relatively low performance adhesive. For engineered applications an appropriate spec epoxy adhesive is far better. Given the overall high standard of design and execution, I am surprised by the choice of silicone and PVA. The response, 'they are good enough' clashes with the attention to detail and precision we see otherwise throughout the project.
+Robert Seviour Ha! "nice for postage stamps" ...Sir you don't seem to know what you're talking about. Like I said before Silicone is an excellent adhesive... I'm sure you've seen a glass Aquarium? Well those panels of glass are "glued" together with nothing but Silicone. I personally have a 75 gallon tank built in my wall directly above all of my home theater & stereo equipment, a lot of $ under roughly 1000 lbs of glass, water & rocks. I've seen way bigger tanks all built with silicone (glass not acrylic) I've been an architectural woodworker professionally for over 20 years, hence the reason I stumbled on this video, looking to maybe beef up my dust collector. I only use Silicone to install inlayed granite or solid surface materials in wood, because I'm sure you already know wood expands & contracts therefore I need the flexibility of the silicone. I would love to see you try & remove one of these granite of marble inlays without breaking them and I only use a few dabs of it. As far as the "PVA" glue or you could just call it what it is, wood glue he used for the rotor vanes, perfectly suited, there is no need to waste extra time & money. The title of this video is "Homemade Dust Collector" and I think he did an Excellent Job!
D Nesser There are many 'wood glues' starting with boiled down horses' hooves, then casein, then the first synthetic glues, such as those based on formaldehyde, latterly PVA and for engineered construction the range of epoxies. I have used all of these over a span of approaching 60 years, so I do think that I know what I am talking about. While it is true that you can bond glass and some other smooth surfaces with silicone, it still far weaker than epoxies. Furthermore if strength matters for wooden construction, the material should be dry, and kept that way by complete encapsulation in a waterproof coating. For this an appropriate epoxy is ideal. I ran a business supplying epoxies to boat builders making from canoes to ocean-going trimarans. There's a lot of literature on the subject if you would like to learn more. Start with 'The Gougeon Brothers on Wooden Boat Building'. Whilst I agree that Marius did an excellent job, his choice of MDF and PVA adhesive for the vanes leaves a lot to be desired considering the large forces produced by the high RPMs. Considerably better - and without costing any more time, perhaps even saving some, would be to make a laminate construction with thin ply, glass cloth (or carbon fibre, and you wouldn't need much of it) with epoxy to bond. That's the way high performance components are made from jet planes to skis. That would obviate the need for the buttress strips Marius used to support the vanes, and lead to better aerodynamic performance.
+Robert Seviour I apologize for underestimating your knowledge of glues & especially "Epoxy's" I never said silicone was better in any way, I simply responded to the original comment that it IS a good adhesive in the right application... Google It. I am well aware epoxies are great for certain applications... I spent $500 on an epoxy mixing gun for fabricating solid surface material that now just hangs in my shop because everyone wants "real" stone now. I work for a small family company that builds Banks, my uncle owns, my dads the architect & I'm the cabinet guy... from the design to the finished product... there are many glues, epoxies, adhesives, sealants etc. that go into a structure. To me you sound a little biased towards Epoxies, having been selling them your whole life, you sound like the sales people that come into my shop trying sell me "Better" sandpaper than I'm using cause the glue holding the agragite is better, it never is.... & where did boat building come into play? and yes most people probably know that moisture isn't good for wood, in fact the moisture content of the wood plays just as much of a role when "gluing" wood.. we're talking about a homemade Dust Collector here! I doubt he had fiberglass or carbon fiber just layin around, it looks like he's using off fall & scrap wood to build it. If you've got a better design make a video & post it.
saying you want it to be quieter is stupid. you either get more powerful or more quiet. the most you could do is put damping on the outside of the impeller cage or make the impeller more efficient.
Before I'd like to congratulate you, hardly sees young people with their talent and commitment, I would like to thank for their advice and tips and would just like to share with you my experience, I simply introduced a garbage bag higher than the same compartment, so the bag does not rip. Greetings from Brazil.
Marius, here's a trick I've seen in Industrial films: Get a digital clock, one with BIG numbers. Set it to12:00, and start it when the demonstrated "action" begins. Then the viewer can get a really good demonstration of the true elapsed time, even when you speed it up to save "web time".
A clock with a sweep second hand woks almost as well, as long as it is big enough that the second hand can be seen.
Your new blower is really impressive. Have you measured the air speed (and volume) it gets? I don't know if you know about manometers, but they are simple to make and can get you good readings.
neelode I thought about that, but my camera can only record up to 30min... I would need a time-laps camera for that to work properly.No, I didn't measure anything. Maybe I build a manometer in the future.
Marius Hornberger
COME ON, Marius, we're talking here about a demo of the suction of your cyclone, or something along those lines, not a feature length film. How long did it take you to suck up the sawdust? A minute or so? Likewise with the other things you did in your 10 minute video...
Well done Marius. Your dad must be very proud of you. And your English is near perfect.
Very good job on the whole project! I suggest a metal trash can as your dust bin to catch all the dust and chips. The metal can won't get sucked in on itself like the bag does. Even a plastic trash can like someone else mentioned can get sucked in on itself when you have a powerful suction on it. The metal trash cans can be bought very cheaply and come in 30 gal or even smaller as in the size of your wooden bin. Overall you did an awesome job!
When you hooked the small hose to the cyclone, it is in an neutral vacuum area. If you connect it to the vacuum side with a valve in line you can control how much vacuum is applied to the bag. Or if it was inline with the flow of the spiral area, add a venturi to create a vacuum on the hose going to the bag. That will keep the bag inflated also
nice - I like the homemade filter approach. soapy water for tooling silicone - what a great tip - wish I had that one before
hffcom Thanks. Me too when I made my cyclone for the Shop-vac. There's a big silicone mess!
Marius Hornberger would something like the heavy metal foil tape used for duct work be more easily put in place there to seal the seam? (taped as smoothly as possible to the INSIDE of it....)
If you're interested in drawing, without software, a flat pattern for your spiral flights an ellipse can help. Actually the ellipse changes as the spiral progresses from start to finish but it's not difficult. Think conic sections, planetary orbits, Kepler and later Newton a wee bit. Couple nails and a loop of string guiding your pencil help too. Keep trying your ideas. Thanks for sharing.
I was wondering about adding a spiral like that. Good to see that someone tried it and it works!
Gday from Australia, nice job on the cyclone. To stop the bag collapsing and equalise the pressure I put the outlet of the small tube on the inlet before the cyclone
Thanks for the response! Gonna try that someday.
The more suction you have on the outside on the bag, the more the bag will try to expand. As dennis binyon said, 'equalise' is an important keyword. The more air-tight your chamber is (eg. the outer box containing the bag), the less the bag will contract.
Imagine that air is sucked in from the outside through a hole in the bottom of the cabinet, then the bag will easily contract. Changing the direction of the same hole in the bottom would help avoiding it; the more suction, there, the better. Think about it and make a few drawings on a piece of paper; I'm pretty sure you'll get this right!
Excellent effort Marius. You have a good brain and I second what others have said, your father must be proud of your talents, well done.
at 7:10 you said "no way to clamp it". Just a quick tip - you can use a little bit of hot glue to keep things clamped in place while the other glue dries.
Very nicely done. I have a similar homemade cyclone and will use some of your ideas to improve mine
If you were to move the top of the 'balance tube' from the middle of the cone to the inlet tube of the blower, there would be slightly lower pressure on the outside of the bag than the inside. The bag would therefore be held open. No more need for stick frame thing. You would need to keep the dust-box at the bottom clean and have no splits in the bag, also fit a small filter-trap in line with the tube.
Very good, very creative.
You didn't tell how far away that you put the pivot for the router when you cut groves for the blades
I love the soapy water to smooth the silicone. It looked like it worked really well.
I believe that your plastic colection bag could avoid being collapsed by putting a blanket of your filter material on the inside wall between the inside of the box and the outside surface of the bag, allowing equal pressure on all bag surfaces. Good luck.
I've watched a lot of your videos this I know this is an older one its really neat to see how you shop has developed over the time. But to hold things together until epoxy sets I use a few wraps of electrical tape it is strong enough to hold most parts together till the glue sets and won't leave a residue on most things if removed in the first few days.
Your tube needs to go to from the bag box to the fan intake - it doesn't carry dust, just equalizes pressure so the fan intake has the lowest pressure in the system.
A Young Matthias Wandel ?
Suburban Pjokk ii
yes
Marius does cleaner work.
I see Marius and Matthias as being two very different people. Yes, they both do awesome woodworking, but I'd rather watch Marius' videos, because he's paying much more attention to safety, plus he has much more inner peace.
Excellent work. With a larger shop, and all the tools i bet you could build anything. Stay on track. Let us know if you improve the collector bag deflection tube. Although the wooden cage seems to work good.
To prevent the bag collapse, you need to balance the air pressure with the cyclone output tube--the input to the impeller.The side of the cyclone won't do--it is a point of mechanical high pressure.
You're awesome man! Your videos inspire me to get into the shop and get to making stuff!
Congratulations..!!!! As we say in Australia, you are one clever cookie.
I was very well entertained , I loved your project. Patience is a virtue. And you got a lot of it.
I didn't know about the soapy water trick, thanks!
For acryllic you will only need water, but for silicone you'll also need soap (and try using gloves if you can, because silicone can't be washed off of your hands, you have to scrape or sand it off; gloves saves you so much trouble).
4:28 nice! i've been thinking common cyclones somehow has missed opportunities like this one. i mean, the inlet can be slightly angled down so that fine particles has more energy going down
I think that you are very talented young man great ideas keep them coming I'll be trying to build the large dust collector love the use of ply and parts that can be found any where. Keep it up and well done
You may already know, there is a product that helps remove silicone, it works well, breaks the bond, can be a life saver on bathroom or boat repairs
Marius, to clamp that thing to the side of the cyclone, instead of holding it, make a piece sort of like a screen door handle, only out of wood, and drill a hole through it for a bolt. The "wooden screen door pull" will bridge the hole on the INSIDE of the cyclone.. The bolt will extend through the inside of the fitting, through another small block of wood, and a washer, and then a nut on the bolt will clamp the thing together until the epoxy sets up.... Make sense?
neelode Makes sense, but building this contraption would take several minutes and holding it only took one minute.
Marius - great work, you continue to impress me. :)
I value that you keep your videos to the essential so people like me don't fall asleep; you keep things interesting while paying attention to details - and you always seek improvement.
I would like to suggest that you build yourself an oscillating spindle sander, because you're making a lot of circular cuts.
Combining that with your scroll saw should give you super smooth inner circles.
(There are a lot of inspiring videos on TH-cam for oscillating spindle sanders; they're not too hard to build - you could even mount an old drill in a table for starters).
Congratulations for your work. Instead of putting in the spiral, I would have thought that it would have been simpler ( in original work) to have angled down the intake nozzle to such an angle that in one turn the debris would have just cleared the lower part of the intake nozzle. As the spiral is fitted, if one goes into details, there are a lot of interesting dynamic behaviour including slight vortices on the first upper part of the spiral generated by the upcoming air. Rather complex to analyse,
+Carmel Pule' The intake nozzle is already at a slight angle ~10°.
An other option is to ditch the tube completely and use a rotary valve at the bottom of the cyclone.
Very good suction, a job well done.
massoud147 Thanks!
Hello Marius, Not sure if it is really needed the second outer small tube. I would invite you to test and disconnect the outer tube. I like your work very good!!!
WOW... Is all I say... I have no words!!! Congratullations!
Thank you very much!
+Я люблю тевя Those aren't your words? Give them back to the rightful owner then :-)
Спасибо за видео, отличная работа !!!!! УДАЧИ И УСПЕХОВ!!!!!
"until I MAKE IT FIT..." sounds like something I would say.
maybe double or triplle up the blade diameter/height to run the motor at 1/3 speed to reduce the noise without power loss?
Pack it with bitumen to reduce the noise.
...cut it out very carefully with he scroll saw...
What puzzles me is why you didn't use a circle cutting jig for your router? I make circles - both "interior" - i.e. I want the outer part, such as you are doing, and "exterior" - i.e. I want the part that is in the middle, as for a round table top, etc. all the time. It is simple, rapid, and exceedingly accurate. (And it doesn't take a piece of equipment I don't have - i.e. a scroll saw.)
I have cut circles - both kinds as small as three inches across to, believe it or not 20 FEET across. That one was cutting the planking for a circular deck that a friend and I built for him.
neelode It takes time to setup the router. The scroll saw is always ready to use. I also wasn't sure about the exact inside diameter and once the pivoting point in the middle is missing, I can't use the router anyways.
What is causing the increase in noise, is the fact you made you blower bigger. Yeah I know what you are thinking, "Duh!!" lol Try using insulating form around your blower, and that may work. This just popped into my mind. Find out the frequency of the sound of your blower, when it is on full. Then have a speaker next too the blower, feeding the same frequency. They may cancel each other out.
Interesting idea, but unfortunately I don't have the equipment to try this out. It is just an oversized impeller in an undersized blowerhousing. Just need to make a bigger blowerhousing.
Marius Hornberger you could try the trick Mathias Wandel does on his channel with the blower he built....try holding various cans & containers of different sizes across the exit. When you find one that's the right size, it'll create a counter-resonance and reduce the noise significantly
Tim Hyatt That's not possible for me, because my filter unit is there.
Hi Marius, I really love the ability and detail you put into your work. I'm really looking forward to see what your going to do with the x-carve you just got.
If it's not too much to ask, would you be able to send me the plans to your shop vac, I would really appreciate it. Thank you in advance! :)
Grenade Gaming Thanks, but no. There are no plans available.
Marius Hornberger Thank you anyway.
Excellent Marius. Have subscribed and look forward to more videos.
Thank you, new videos coming soon!
Hi Marius, even I don’t have a shop and therefore no dust collector. I got a question anyway about it: would it make sense, if the duct/pipe leading into the cyclon already has an angle towards the bucket? So dust particles already move in the correct direction and gravity don’t have to the complete job on its own. Maybe you can give it try or if you know the outcome already, let us know. Greetings, Hendrik
Tag Marius. Would It not be better to get a 200 liter plastic drum as the dust bag, that way it won't deflect. Ask at the farmers or maybe medical. Futtertonne is the right word. Plus side is that you can attach wheels easily, it has a self sealing top too. I use some for outside storage and have yet had one to fail.
+Stefan Asmussen not enough space for it.
50 liter kann man ja auch kriegen :)
Where is the shock absorber to prevent the transmission of vibrations from blower to the pipeline system?
+Sergiy there is no "absorber", but the pipes have rubber seals, that absorb some of the vibration.
Isn't Thien baffle dust separator simpler and equally effective as cyclone separator? 🤔
молодец парень!! Приятно было посмотреть на хорошую работу))
Hi Marius,
Ich bin grade dabei deine wundervolle Absauganlage nach zu bauen. Nun habe ich ein par Fragen: wie stark und woraus ist das Blech aus dem der Zyklon besteht, gibt es SketchUp Dateien für das neue Gebläse (das ganz neue)? Danke son mal im voraus!
could you tell me please how far in did you place the suction pipe? does it go past the entry hole from the side? thanks great job by the way
did the spiral inside your cyclone cut down on the small particles going to the filters?
Yes, a little bit. But dust from sanding with 400 or higher still gets through
This thing looks like ticking time bomb. It's not if it will explode but when. That impeller is really iffy.
You're right. The disaster also happened, I made a video about it as well.
Please explain! 😱
Hi MariusYour work is very impressive and the videos very informative. I am currently installing better dust extraction in my own workshop, but I am struggling with how best to filter the air coming out of the cyclone. Obviously a lot of people use the cartridge type filters that are also fitted to some commercial dust extractors, but these are very expensive. It looks like you are using panel filters, what sort of efficiency do these give in terms of percentage of small particues removed and do you find that they result in a significant reduction in pressure in the system? What filters dis you choose to use and are you just using felt as a pre filter (seems from the video you cover them when you slot them in)?Sorry for all the questions, but would be interested in your answers and / or thoughts.
+T Radford These filters are great. Find them here: www.amazon.com/Fellowes-HF-230-AP-230PH-Purifier-9370001/dp/B0067D7CSC/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1457706542&sr=8-3&keywords=hepa+fellowes
I covered this filter topic in more detail in a newer video here: th-cam.com/video/tREMRr81olg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Marius, you're a star!
Für was ist eigentlich der Schlauch den du da am Zyklon anklebst
watched the two parts to your video and was good to watch.
im not sure but is that only used just to collect sawdust? if so its a big thing just to collect sawdust lol a good hoover would do a good job.
again good video :)
That is a very nice scrollsaw. What is the brand?
It's a proxxon
I just found your channel. Great job on the videos. Where did you learn woodworking? Your shop has all the necessary equipment for most projects.
Thank you! I didn't learn woodworking and I also didn't have any woodworking lesson. A lot " learning by doing". I also watch a lot of other TH-cam woodworkers and so I could see some projects and techniques to try out myself.
ist der schrank mit dem müllsack drin luftdicht? ansonsten wird der sack immer kollabieren.
Ich hab ihn so luftdicht wie nur möglich gemacht, aber er ist wohl nicht zu 100% dicht.
Hi again great video and love the work and effort. What’s the name of the small but long hose you used near 9:20.
Very good videos, I'm very enjoyed! Good job! but, I think you should have more speed of motor for a better vacuum :)
***** In Europe you can only get motors with ~2800 rpm because our power supply runs on 50hz. American runs on 60hz. I need a bigger blower.
You can maby try to build a gear to step up the speed. You can also try a DC or universal motor and then you'll get very high speed. You did a very good job! :-)
Excellent work! Well done!
I don't think you need a bag. Try to find a way to hook up a removable trash can.
have you had any problems with the fine mesh blocking and whatnot
No. But it saved my filters once when I forgot to empty the bin.
Did you solve the noise increase problem?
I missed where you acknowledged Bill Pentz' cyclone design seeing how yours is a copy in great degree. If you did, please ignore me as I hurried thru portions. Copying Matthias style is evident to many and seems to fit you.
Great JOB VERY nice to see you should be proud..
hello Which of these two wheels is good? [fan and flag]
For some reason, scroll saws just terrify me.
thanks for the inspiration
he is very talented
Relised i taped your video and steped into over acheaver mod .
Your spiral is too high up. It should be lower to enhance the path! Your suction tube is missing into the vortex
Great job !!!
What type of plywood do you use for this project?
birch plywood
Great job, well done
你的技術越來越精進了
que mal que no esta traducido, no puedo lograr entender el funcionamiento, el espiral y los filtros me tienen confundido, no logro entenderlo.
+Gaston Laidano Si hay unos respuestas puedes traducir ellos tu mismo con Google translator. The commenter asks how the spiral and the filters function.
¿Cómo te va? ¿Ya aprendiste inglés? Es una suerte que Marius hable inglés, porque es alemán. Ja
excelente amigo
gracias por el aporte
saludos desde Mérida Venezuela :)
Gracias y saludos desde Alemania
amigo, sube tutoriales con subtitulos en español :)
lo siento, pero mi español no es bueno. La mayor parte es sólo Traductor Google...
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Hallo,
ich würde gerne mal wissen wo den Fast Cap Glubot herbekommen hast ?
leopard3c Hier: www.toolovation.co.uk/product_p/gb.gluebot.htm
Danke für die schnelle Antwort. Ich hatte da auch schon mal gekuckt, aber leider ist es da ausverkauft.
Hi friend.I think ,you don't understand very well the air ramp(spiral).Your air ramp is wrong and uncomplete
How old r u?
felix malvian 20
What an anazing kid you are!!!
Jesper Hansen Thanks, but KID!?! I'm a little bit too old (20) to be called a kid. ;)
Marius Hornberger Young man, you are well beyond your years in knowledge. At 20 you are 2.5 times younger than me so "kid" fits by age but in no derogatory way....I think Wiz Kid is more appropriate ;-). You are doing excellent work in your shop and with the videos. Much appreciated! Question: Are you currently attending University or are you one of those who finished college before most people finish high school ;-). Cheers from USA!
Well, thank you very much! As I'm from Germany, our school system is a little different. But I passed my "Abitur" (A-levels) with 18. Right now I'm waiting for my place at university.
Marius Hornberger Congratulations! You will do very well. Good luck with studies and continue your woodworking/creating passion as well. I can all tell how much you enjoy working in your shop!!!!
silicon is not a glue...
+michaS Silicon is an excellent adhesive in the right situation...
+D Nesser Nice for postage stamps, perhaps not much else. The rotor vanes that Marius made were secured with what appears to be a PVA glue, that too is a relatively low performance adhesive. For engineered applications an appropriate spec epoxy adhesive is far better. Given the overall high standard of design and execution, I am surprised by the choice of silicone and PVA. The response, 'they are good enough' clashes with the attention to detail and precision we see otherwise throughout the project.
+Robert Seviour Ha! "nice for postage stamps" ...Sir you don't seem to know what you're talking about. Like I said before Silicone is an excellent adhesive... I'm sure you've seen a glass Aquarium? Well those panels of glass are "glued" together with nothing but Silicone. I personally have a 75 gallon tank built in my wall directly above all of my home theater & stereo equipment, a lot of $ under roughly 1000 lbs of glass, water & rocks. I've seen way bigger tanks all built with silicone (glass not acrylic)
I've been an architectural woodworker professionally for over 20 years, hence the reason I stumbled on this video, looking to maybe beef up my dust collector. I only use Silicone to install inlayed granite or solid surface materials in wood, because I'm sure you already know wood expands & contracts therefore I need the flexibility of the silicone. I would love to see you try & remove one of these granite of marble inlays without breaking them and I only use a few dabs of it. As far as the "PVA" glue or you could just call it what it is, wood glue he used for the rotor vanes, perfectly suited, there is no need to waste extra time & money. The title of this video is "Homemade Dust Collector" and I think he did an Excellent Job!
D Nesser There are many 'wood glues' starting with boiled down horses' hooves, then casein, then the first synthetic glues, such as those based on formaldehyde, latterly PVA and for engineered construction the range of epoxies. I have used all of these over a span of approaching 60 years, so I do think that I know what I am talking about. While it is true that you can bond glass and some other smooth surfaces with silicone, it still far weaker than epoxies. Furthermore if strength matters for wooden construction, the material should be dry, and kept that way by complete encapsulation in a waterproof coating. For this an appropriate epoxy is ideal. I ran a business supplying epoxies to boat builders making from canoes to ocean-going trimarans. There's a lot of literature on the subject if you would like to learn more. Start with 'The Gougeon Brothers on Wooden Boat Building'.
Whilst I agree that Marius did an excellent job, his choice of MDF and PVA adhesive for the vanes leaves a lot to be desired considering the large forces produced by the high RPMs. Considerably better - and without costing any more time, perhaps even saving some, would be to make a laminate construction with thin ply, glass cloth (or carbon fibre, and you wouldn't need much of it) with epoxy to bond. That's the way high performance components are made from jet planes to skis. That would obviate the need for the buttress strips Marius used to support the vanes, and lead to better aerodynamic performance.
+Robert Seviour I apologize for underestimating your knowledge of glues & especially "Epoxy's" I never said silicone was better in any way, I simply responded to the original comment that it IS a good adhesive in the right application... Google It. I am well aware epoxies are great for certain applications... I spent $500 on an epoxy mixing gun for fabricating solid surface material that now just hangs in my shop because everyone wants "real" stone now. I work for a small family company that builds Banks, my uncle owns, my dads the architect & I'm the cabinet guy... from the design to the finished product... there are many glues, epoxies, adhesives, sealants etc. that go into a structure.
To me you sound a little biased towards Epoxies, having been selling them your whole life, you sound like the sales people that come into my shop trying sell me "Better" sandpaper than I'm using cause the glue holding the agragite is better, it never is.... & where did boat building come into play? and yes most people probably know that moisture isn't good for wood, in fact the moisture content of the wood plays just as much of a role when "gluing" wood.. we're talking about a homemade Dust Collector here! I doubt he had fiberglass or carbon fiber just layin around, it looks like he's using off fall & scrap wood to build it.
If you've got a better design make a video & post it.
saying you want it to be quieter is stupid. you either get more powerful or more quiet. the most you could do is put damping on the outside of the impeller cage or make the impeller more efficient.
Are you German?
Ja, bin ich.
ja ich mir gerade auch bei dem durchschauen deiner Videos aufgefallen. Der 1und1 Router hat dich verraten ;) Kommst du aus dem Westerwald?
Simon Gerharz Nein, das Allgäu (am Bodensee) ist meine Heimat
Schade 2,5 Std. von mir. Schöne Bandsäge hast du da. Die ist auch nach dem plan von Matthias Wandel oder?
Ja, ist sie und läuft ganz gut
👍👍👍👍👍