Both the Pro Splitting Maul and Axe are rebranded Ochsenkopf, but surprisingly are usually slightly less expensive than the Ochsenkopf. I think most of the other Stihl axes and hatchets are also Ochsenkopf but I haven't researched it. I've had the maul for about 4 years and agree that it is a well made and useful tool. I have yet to purchase the axe, but this video has me thinking more seriously about it.
I own both 1250 and 2500g Ochsenkopf (sold by Stihl) splitters, but been thinking about getting the maul for quite awhile. I appreciate the fact these products are still being made in Germany's oldest axe forge with known steel grade (C60), carry deep Ochsenkopf maker mark/weight stamped, have hickory handles and also convex shaped cheeks. Something of real homestead value that could be handed down through the generations. My firewood usually consists of beech or hornbeam. Most of the work is done with (slightly modified) Fiskars X25, reaching for 2500g Ochsenkopf only when stubborn log refuses to give up. Lighter head (1250g) is rehandled and is used exclusively for kindling. I never used a maul before, but I assume that longer handle, heavier and narrower head will give me more advantage with every single swing.
Very good advice on carrying a tourniquet when using axes (and chainsaws). I keep a scaled down trauma kit in a vacuum sealed food bag with pre-cut rip points. It stays in a side pocket of a bag I use to store my wedges and always goes with me when cutting/chopping. Thanks for the review. I just bought the axe, and it is working great so far.
I have both also, but I had to refaced the agle to 45° From new, the beveled angle was near 90° that will be OK for soft wood. I am in Australia and it is all hardwood here. So it's much better with a 45° angle on the blade edge.
I’ve got my Dads old school Maule that we used many years and it’s not lightweight at all but it will bust up thicker pieces and it doesn’t have the sharper edge look as the one you got and I would like to seen you a demo of how it works for me but the Ax I love because of the protection around the handle versus the rubber
I got the axe I really like it I had to profile the blade though it bites way better and I think it splits better too I didn't like how the edge was like a maul kinda but wide like an axe. I use it to bang plastic wedges and it is nice cause it's shorter and with better edge it will chop like crazy too.
I own both, & the maul is MILES better for splitting large blocks with, but only the splitting axe can split both blocks and comfortably shave some kindling as well when held high on the handle. So the axe is more versatile, but it cannot tear through large hardwood blocks the way the maul can, it just can't. I really dislike the short handle on the axe too. I am not a very tall (170cm) person, but long handles are far more effective, far safer, far less likely to see you hitting the ground or yourself, and they provide more leverage. I really disagree with the whole, 'the handle should measure the length of your arm' thing, it's BS.
Both the Pro Splitting Maul and Axe are rebranded Ochsenkopf, but surprisingly are usually slightly less expensive than the Ochsenkopf. I think most of the other Stihl axes and hatchets are also Ochsenkopf but I haven't researched it. I've had the maul for about 4 years and agree that it is a well made and useful tool. I have yet to purchase the axe, but this video has me thinking more seriously about it.
I own both 1250 and 2500g Ochsenkopf (sold by Stihl) splitters, but been thinking about getting the maul for quite awhile.
I appreciate the fact these products are still being made in Germany's oldest axe forge with known steel grade (C60), carry deep Ochsenkopf maker mark/weight stamped, have hickory handles and also convex shaped cheeks. Something of real homestead value that could be handed down through the generations.
My firewood usually consists of beech or hornbeam. Most of the work is done with (slightly modified) Fiskars X25, reaching for 2500g Ochsenkopf only when stubborn log refuses to give up.
Lighter head (1250g) is rehandled and is used exclusively for kindling.
I never used a maul before, but I assume that longer handle, heavier and narrower head will give me more advantage with every single swing.
Very good advice on carrying a tourniquet when using axes (and chainsaws). I keep a scaled down trauma kit in a vacuum sealed food bag with pre-cut rip points. It stays in a side pocket of a bag I use to store my wedges and always goes with me when cutting/chopping. Thanks for the review. I just bought the axe, and it is working great so far.
I have both also, but I had to refaced the agle to 45° From new, the beveled angle was near 90° that will be OK for soft wood. I am in Australia and it is all hardwood here. So it's much better with a 45° angle on the blade edge.
Great video thanks man👍
I’ve got my Dads old school Maule that we used many years and it’s not lightweight at all but it will bust up thicker pieces and it doesn’t have the sharper edge look as the one you got and I would like to seen you a demo of how it works for me but the Ax I love because of the protection around the handle versus the rubber
I got the axe I really like it I had to profile the blade though it bites way better and I think it splits better too I didn't like how the edge was like a maul kinda but wide like an axe. I use it to bang plastic wedges and it is nice cause it's shorter and with better edge it will chop like crazy too.
The handle last me like 10 minutes. I welded a metal pipe and it will last forever
I own both, & the maul is MILES better for splitting large blocks with, but only the splitting axe can split both blocks and comfortably shave some kindling as well when held high on the handle. So the axe is more versatile, but it cannot tear through large hardwood blocks the way the maul can, it just can't. I really dislike the short handle on the axe too. I am not a very tall (170cm) person, but long handles are far more effective, far safer, far less likely to see you hitting the ground or yourself, and they provide more leverage. I really disagree with the whole, 'the handle should measure the length of your arm' thing, it's BS.
you're splitting some old dried out and spalted pine. I do Oak and some do split easy but generally much harder than birch or pine for sure.