Well done that man, I’m just about to hang a dozen doors in my own home and totally see the benefit of a jig to not only speed up the process but improve my chances of a quality outcome. Loved te added touch of the cat sliding down the glass pane at around 11 minutes in. My wife loved that bit. Thanks again, will be subscribing
Considering a jig for a renovation project I have coming up, last time I had to manually do nine doors, and a jig looks like it would save a lot of time. Following this review I think I'll go for the templated one rather than the adjustable, as it's simpler, plus it has the clamps built in. Thanks for the review!
Assuming you've a fair bit of other work to do, you'll probably have a few clamps anyway, both jigs work great so either will save you a lot of time. Bare in mind though that the new jig will be suitable with all the locks and latches you are likely to come across, whereas the heavier metal jig matches the templates to specific sizes of locks, latches and faceplates.
I have a Trend T11 and CRT Mk 3 router and table ....I am currently fitting into the right hand side of my table saw...all the gear no idea..thats me...lol Just setting up my 1st "shop" not done any woodworking before. Steve
Hahahahaha!!!! I agree the cat did add some upscale action, to the FULL LENGTH motion picture (cast away) lol.. But Video still has some good info. Just always a bit long winded. Thanks for taking the time to inform others.
Nope, souber tool is on another level for installation of locks, and it’s very versatile for almost every lock and latch you can buy, no complicated setup and bits to loose
Horses for courses. I’m using a router for the hinges, so it makes sense for me to use a router for the locks too.... Like almost every task in life. There’s more than one way to do it, and everyone has their favourite way. Be genuinely Interested to know why if you’re so positive about sounder why you’d watch a video about a router jig🤷♂️
Yeah, they have a 12mm x 63mm long reach bit for locks, that’s on a 1/2” shank, they’re available in three grades, craftpro/trade/professional, they’re all really good, I tend to use the trade version. For locks that need to go deeper you do need to drill them out..... once you’re down to that depth there only a very small chance of blowing out the side of the door, so it’s no teal hassle.
You've given me food for thought and I appreciate it, thank you! I'm getting back into house/site bashing so I'm guessing the newer one would be wiser as we don't know which make/model of mongery is coming our way? The simpler, newer one presumably will cover any oddities we may encounter?
That fucking cat LMAO!!! Loved this review but the cat made it a plus from me lol. Would of been nice to see you set it up and do it on a scrap bit of wood though. Going to order one tomorrow now.
Ive got one now and think its very good. I did need a rounded end on some though so i had to set it up differently. Use a 24.5 and then its just a straight cut. Would recommend! Only thing is the uni base they sell is crap! Looks like cheap plastic with cracks in and the middle bit where you screw the guides in came apart one side. I would NOT recommend that item.
Just bought the trend lock jig b adjustable lock jig. Not used it yet hoping to get it done this weekend. Don’t see why you can’t do the mortise on a hung door? That’s what I’m hoping on doing. good review, would have been nice to see a demo.
It’s potentially dangerous to be morticing a 3” plus deep lock on a Door that could swing.... since the doors going to be off the hinges anyway. Just as easy and far safer to do it on its back. Didn’t have a door that needed a lock at the time of making this video - 6 years ago now I think (don’t actually remember)
Great video, ive just bought (today) the adjustable one as im currently fitting some locks at a job, ive always fitted em by hand but these seem so much easier to get the same standard of work and save alot of time, im unsure what router ud recomend as the lads at work all say just use a makita 1/4 trimmer but think its not going to have enough power for the mortice, unsure if to get the old one as it comes with clamp and the guide bush etc only thing if i ever need to do a job where the locks are different like u said, but think it will be alot easier with the plates for adjustment rather than setting each one up door by door or like u said going round the full job do all the mortice then adjust and do the faceplates, is there anything for the latch on the frame or is that always by hand? Also do u do the doors in situe or take them off
Using this I always setup for all the lock bodies, do everything, then swing the door, and go back for the latch plates. I've never seen anything to the strike plates into the frame, so I do them by hand. I'm actually playing around with ideas for routing into the door linings, it's easier if the jams are out, but I think it'll still be possible to make a jig for if they are fitted...fingers crossed my ideas will work!
Hello Richard. great videos btw. Just wondering what you think of the SOUBER DBB morticer. Im buying a lock jig and steered towards the new trend jig but curious about the souber. Seems like a fairly practical design but never seen them and dont hear anything about them and I know its hard to beat the accuracy and a good router jig. Cheers.
HI, Richard Have you tried the Souber lock jig, for a tenner more than the Trend one it's in a different league. That is if you hang a lot of doors. Also what you didn't mention was you still need to use a spade bit if the lock is deeper than the travel of the router. Anyway great vid especially the cat.
I've seen them, but never used one. For me a router jig makes more sense since I always carry a router. You're right about the deeper locks though. I use the long reach cutters, and have only once or twice ever had to drill out the bottom once routed. horses for courses.
I had the dbb morticer and it is great, I bought it exactly because I saw and didn't like the limitations of the first trend one, but those problems have gone on this new one and I like it! plus there was 1 gripe with the sauber ... the grub screw isn't great and the depth stop can slide if you don't keep tightening it. I'm now gonna get one of these thanks for the good vid!
That’s a really hard question! If I only could have one, I would go with the original, metal version (actually the longer one for disability locks - as it’s even more versatile), mainly because you can swap from face plate to lock body and back in a second or two. So if your doing a Bunch you can drop the locks in one after the other… with the adjustable one, when doing a more than a few, it’s easier to do all the face plates and then all the lock bodies just to save time keep re adjusting it…. Assuming you only have one.. but the down side with the metal one is it’s much heavier, and although the insert plates are easy enough to get and specify, each plate will obviously only cut one size. But at the end of the day, it’ll come down to how you’re most likely to be using it.
@@BrainFizz Thank you so much for your quick and again detailed reply much appreciated 👌 I think I prefer the older one also with the plates, seems much easier. The new one looks quite fiddly with all them screws ro adjust every time. I just subscribed mate as I like your content and look forward to more videos from you Regards 👍
Yeah totally you could.... I just prefer to route the lock bodies so the mortise is nice a straight sided.... sometimes there very little meat left in the door, and any offline drilling I’m always worried about blowing out the side. This is a good compromise in terms of jugs, but I much prefer the larger metal lock jig - that one you just swap out the insert plates and there no messing with the jig at all.
@@BrainFizz yes I understand your point but I am trying to eliminate the use of my half inch router as I am now using a quarter inch cordless and the lead for the half inch is slowing me down.. May still set it up for the bigger mortise locks Thanks for the reply
Totally. If your running cordless then that’s the way to do it... could well be quicker if your happy with a spade bit and drill.... as you don’t then need to take the door off again to route the mortise - you can drill it whilst it’s swinging.
you say they didn't have to send you new plates! with me that actual sizes they gave were wong and it's not cheap! after they made that mistake I didn't bother contacting them I just don't use it (more then one size standard size)
Simon Austin I don’t understand what you’re saying? The jig cuts the hole sizes bigger than why you want? Which plates, are you referring to the other model lock jig with the metal inserts?
hi Richard. was wanting to know does the trend jig come with plates for an es latch 120×26 face plate. also a zoo bathroom lock 155×22 face plate. thankyou. Jason
+Jason Marten Sorry for the slow reply! The Adjustable Jig doesn't come with any plates (which you probably worked out), The other lock jig with the plates comes with various plates out of the box - To the best of my knowledge the sizes of these plates and bodies is fairly "various", But if you got one and there wasn't a fit for what you wanted you can contact Trend and tell them your predicament . When I got the metal lock jig I had just that problem, and a plate was made up for me and dispatched same day FOC. Trend keep a close eye on changes in market demands, including New locks brought out. They are able to have a specific plate made up for your size requirements. This includes the larger lock jig for the DDA locks. Hope this helps.
Why would you use a router to mortise the lock body? I have always used a good sharp auger bit & drill when the door is swung, two or three times quicker.
Apart from making a perfectly sized mortice that the lock sits exactly square in resulting in the cross pin for the handles to sit in - which makes the handles work smoother with out rubbing, there's no way it's quicker to use a chisel. Besides, if you "always use a sharp chisel" how do you know it's 2 or 3 times quicker??
Dont use a chisel. Drill the lock body so that holes are intersecting by 10mm or so, then gently but firmly combine the holes by tilting the drill up & down until you have a clean mortise. I know it sounds a bit dodgy & rough, thats exactly what i thought when shown for the first time, but i used this method for years very successfully . I did use the router for the face plate.
I know loads of people who drill then chisel. It's horses for courses, but for me, to route a clean square mortice when the door is off - which it will be for fitting a new lock/latch, the door has to come of when shooting it in and morticing the hinges (which are also routed) and have the handles fit perfectly without having to keep adjusting where it rubs a router is a far quicker, neater job. Loads of people try to convince me that the old ways are the best, but when time is money. it's light years ahead.
+Sharp Edge Woodworking I use mine set up mostly for the face plates with the T5, and the smaller router is limited to depth of plunge, so for the lock mortice I use the T11. I have though used the T5 to cut as much of a lock mortice as possible, then gone back and drilled the rest out as I forgot to pack the bigger router!😂😂😂
+Sharp Edge Woodworking certainly, as long as you use the right combo cutter and guidebush. Some routers don't have the right size guidebush available to fit directly, to the addition of the unibase means the trend guidebush can be added.
+mike thompson apart from the base plate they're basically the same router. The T11 has a larger aperture to it will accept larger bits and is adjustable from below. If you ever plan to put it in a table, that's the model you want. If you're only planning on using hand held then the T10. Honestly though for the difference in price, personally I think it's worth the extra few quid. It comes with the 30mm guide bush for the lock jigs. You just want a 12mm cutter, the longer the better, the longest has a 63mm cut length. Hope this helps.👍
Richard Morley if I just need a router for house bashing do you think the t10 would suit me better? Don't plan on putting in in a table tbh, so the router comes with the right guide bush for the adjustable lock jig? And will the long 12mm cutter do the mortise as well as the face plate?
+mike thompson in that case probably yes, T10. You can still quite happily mount it in a table, you just have to adjust from below when it's mounted. Yeah, the jig works for 30GB/12cut. If you look on the trend website at the lock jigs (there's 3 in total), it'll list the compatible cutters. There's a few options but they're all. 12mm diameter. It cuts lock mortise and face plate. Strike plate on the lining still cut old school.
Hi there! The reason they 10 mm is so the end registers on the height stops. Else you'll ride right over them and trash it and your cutter! :-( From memory the festool routers won't take the Trend guide bushes, so it may be a case of getting a sub base/unibase as well. Personally I'd take your guide bush into the shop and test it. If it hits on the end stops your good to go, does festool make a 30mm long reach guide bush? Hope this helps.
I've just measured it with a depth gauge, personally I think you'll get away with an 8mm spigot. It is enough to make full contact with the top of the two - part height stops.
A tough one...... One onlyIt would be the older metal bodied one, but generally I use the same few locks... this type is far better when the client specifies the lock which might not fit the metal templates I already have.... but this might not be the case for everyone.
+The President of The Internet Hmm I’m going to assume from your comment that you were displeased with the content of the video. So other than trying to sound smart, and self important, what other talents do you possess? You realise that even had you enjoyed the video, you wouldn’t get the 17 minutes back, right??!! Oh, and actually it’s probably more like 22 minutes. Allowing for a reasonably intelligent individual to think up and type a reply. So maybe longer. And of course to read this comment.
Well done that man, I’m just about to hang a dozen doors in my own home and totally see the benefit of a jig to not only speed up the process but improve my chances of a quality outcome. Loved te added touch of the cat sliding down the glass pane at around 11 minutes in. My wife loved that bit. Thanks again, will be subscribing
And a contractor..this was a really helpful little review fella. Thank you..trend got there money back for thwt jig, just off me.
Considering a jig for a renovation project I have coming up, last time I had to manually do nine doors, and a jig looks like it would save a lot of time.
Following this review I think I'll go for the templated one rather than the adjustable, as it's simpler, plus it has the clamps built in.
Thanks for the review!
Assuming you've a fair bit of other work to do, you'll probably have a few clamps anyway, both jigs work great so either will save you a lot of time. Bare in mind though that the new jig will be suitable with all the locks and latches you are likely to come across, whereas the heavier metal jig matches the templates to specific sizes of locks, latches and faceplates.
Many thanks, you've made my mind up.
Purchased the adjustable today.
Enjoy it
Cat comically sliding down the roof 😂😂😂
Nice one , probably will never need or use one but its good to know its out there.
Steve
I have a Trend T11 and CRT Mk 3 router and table ....I am currently fitting into the right hand side of my table saw...all the gear no idea..thats me...lol
Just setting up my 1st "shop" not done any woodworking before.
Steve
Thank god the cat crawled over the roof. The only thing that stopped me falling asleep!
Totally the reason I left that bit in!
Hahahahaha!!!! I agree the cat did add some upscale action, to the FULL LENGTH motion picture (cast away) lol.. But Video still has some good info. Just always a bit long winded. Thanks for taking the time to inform others.
Nope, souber tool is on another level for installation of locks, and it’s very versatile for almost every lock and latch you can buy, no complicated setup and bits to loose
Horses for courses. I’m using a router for the hinges, so it makes sense for me to use a router for the locks too....
Like almost every task in life. There’s more than one way to do it, and everyone has their favourite way.
Be genuinely Interested to know why if you’re so positive about sounder why you’d watch a video about a router jig🤷♂️
Very good. Interesting new jig... I have just bought the heavyweight item so your thoughts on that were v useful. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Really useful video, thanks - do trend sell cutters that will route to the depth of a mortise lock.
Yeah, they have a 12mm x 63mm long reach bit for locks, that’s on a 1/2” shank, they’re available in three grades, craftpro/trade/professional, they’re all really good, I tend to use the trade version. For locks that need to go deeper you do need to drill them out..... once you’re down to that depth there only a very small chance of blowing out the side of the door, so it’s no teal hassle.
You've given me food for thought and I appreciate it, thank you! I'm getting back into house/site bashing so I'm guessing the newer one would be wiser as we don't know which make/model of mongery is coming our way? The simpler, newer one presumably will cover any oddities we may encounter?
That's why I do the videos!! If it gives someone an idea, a thought, or just a new way of thinking, thats a win!!
That fucking cat LMAO!!! Loved this review but the cat made it a plus from me lol. Would of been nice to see you set it up and do it on a scrap bit of wood though. Going to order one tomorrow now.
Eigdooog Thanks, I agree - the scrap wood demo would having been a good thing.
Ive got one now and think its very good. I did need a rounded end on some though so i had to set it up differently. Use a 24.5 and then its just a straight cut. Would recommend! Only thing is the uni base they sell is crap! Looks like cheap plastic with cracks in and the middle bit where you screw the guides in came apart one side. I would NOT recommend that item.
Just bought the trend lock jig b adjustable lock jig. Not used it yet hoping to get it done this weekend. Don’t see why you can’t do the mortise on a hung door? That’s what I’m hoping on doing. good review, would have been nice to see a demo.
It’s potentially dangerous to be morticing a 3” plus deep lock on a
Door that could swing.... since the doors going to be off the hinges anyway. Just as easy and far safer to do it on its back.
Didn’t have a door that needed a lock at the time of making this video - 6 years ago now I think (don’t actually remember)
11:15 the cat made my day:DD
ha ha!
Great video, ive just bought (today) the adjustable one as im currently fitting some locks at a job, ive always fitted em by hand but these seem so much easier to get the same standard of work and save alot of time, im unsure what router ud recomend as the lads at work all say just use a makita 1/4 trimmer but think its not going to have enough power for the mortice, unsure if to get the old one as it comes with clamp and the guide bush etc only thing if i ever need to do a job where the locks are different like u said, but think it will be alot easier with the plates for adjustment rather than setting each one up door by door or like u said going round the full job do all the mortice then adjust and do the faceplates, is there anything for the latch on the frame or is that always by hand? Also do u do the doors in situe or take them off
Using this I always setup for all the lock bodies, do everything, then swing the door, and go back for the latch plates. I've never seen anything to the strike plates into the frame, so I do them by hand. I'm actually playing around with ideas for routing into the door linings, it's easier if the jams are out, but I think it'll still be possible to make a jig for if they are fitted...fingers crossed my ideas will work!
Hello Richard. great videos btw. Just wondering what you think of the SOUBER DBB morticer. Im buying a lock jig and steered towards the new trend jig but curious about the souber. Seems like a fairly practical design but never seen them and dont hear anything about them and I know its hard to beat the accuracy and a good router jig. Cheers.
Marc mc gettigan TBH, It's not something I've heard of, I'll google it though. thanks for watching.
That is a great jig the DBB is far better
HI, Richard
Have you tried the Souber lock jig, for a tenner more than the Trend one it's in a different league. That is if you hang a lot of doors. Also what you didn't mention was you still need to use a spade bit if the lock is deeper than the travel of the router. Anyway great vid especially the cat.
I've seen them, but never used one. For me a router jig makes more sense since I always carry a router. You're right about the deeper locks though. I use the long reach cutters, and have only once or twice ever had to drill out the bottom once routed. horses for courses.
Absolutely, keep up the good work.
I had the dbb morticer and it is great, I bought it exactly because I saw and didn't like the limitations of the first trend one, but those problems have gone on this new one and I like it! plus there was 1 gripe with the sauber ... the grub screw isn't great and the depth stop can slide if you don't keep tightening it. I'm now gonna get one of these thanks for the good vid!
Do 12/76mm router cutters exist? Have only found the 12/63mm cutter
Possibly, can’t remember off hand….. just drill the bottom out by hand if you need an 1/2” depth..🤷♂️
Thanks for your detailed video, if you could only keep one which one would it be ? 🙂
That’s a really hard question! If I only could have one, I would go with the original, metal version (actually the longer one for disability locks - as it’s even more versatile), mainly because you can swap from face plate to lock body and back in a second or two. So if your doing a Bunch you can drop the locks in one after the other… with the adjustable one, when doing a more than a few, it’s easier to do all the face plates and then all the lock bodies just to save time keep re adjusting it…. Assuming you only have one.. but the down side with the metal one is it’s much heavier, and although the insert plates are easy enough to get and specify, each plate will obviously only cut one size.
But at the end of the day, it’ll come down to how you’re most likely to be using it.
@@BrainFizz Thank you so much for your quick and again detailed reply much appreciated 👌 I think I prefer the older one also with the plates, seems much easier. The new one looks quite fiddly with all them screws ro adjust every time. I just subscribed mate as I like your content and look forward to more videos from you Regards 👍
Does the plastic jig do door jambs or door standards?
Could you mark Centre line then drill body with spade bit then align jig to centre line and then router the plate?
Yeah totally you could.... I just prefer to route the lock bodies so the mortise is nice a straight sided.... sometimes there very little meat left in the door, and any offline drilling I’m always worried about blowing out the side.
This is a good compromise in terms of jugs, but I much prefer the larger metal lock jig - that one you just swap out the insert plates and there no messing with the jig at all.
@@BrainFizz yes I understand your point but I am trying to eliminate the use of my half inch router as I am now using a quarter inch cordless and the lead for the half inch is slowing me down.. May still set it up for the bigger mortise locks
Thanks for the reply
Totally. If your running cordless then that’s the way to do it... could well be quicker if your happy with a spade bit and drill.... as you don’t then need to take the door off again to route the mortise - you can drill it whilst it’s swinging.
As good as you are you will blow out the side of the odd door with spades (and even augers!). Routing seems entirely sensible and far safer to me!
First jig I never use it because it's an extra millimetre or more oversized on most of the sizes I needed!
you say they didn't have to send you new plates! with me that actual sizes they gave were wong and it's not cheap! after they made that mistake I didn't bother contacting them I just don't use it (more then one size standard size)
Simon Austin I don’t understand what you’re saying? The jig cuts the hole sizes bigger than why you want? Which plates, are you referring to the other model lock jig with the metal inserts?
The size of the table said it was to cut was wrong! plates. (tried other size and still didn't work) Not talking about the adjustable one.
Not a complaint at you but saying they should give a replacement in this case (if the same problem)
What size cutter you using?
hi Richard. was wanting to know does the trend jig come with plates for an es latch 120×26 face plate. also a zoo bathroom lock 155×22 face plate. thankyou. Jason
+Jason Marten Sorry for the slow reply! The Adjustable Jig doesn't come with any plates (which you probably worked out), The other lock jig with the plates comes with various plates out of the box - To the best of my knowledge the sizes of these plates and bodies is fairly "various", But if you got one and there wasn't a fit for what you wanted you can contact Trend and tell them your predicament .
When I got the metal lock jig I had just that problem, and a plate was made up for me and dispatched same day FOC.
Trend keep a close eye on changes in market demands, including New locks brought out. They are able to have a specific plate made up for your size requirements. This includes the larger lock jig for the DDA locks. Hope this helps.
Why would you use a router to mortise the lock body? I have always used a good sharp auger bit & drill when the door is swung, two or three times quicker.
Apart from making a perfectly sized mortice that the lock sits exactly square in resulting in the cross pin for the handles to sit in - which makes the handles work smoother with out rubbing, there's no way it's quicker to use a chisel. Besides, if you "always use a sharp chisel" how do you know it's 2 or 3 times quicker??
Dont use a chisel. Drill the lock body so that holes are intersecting by 10mm or so, then gently but firmly combine the holes by tilting the drill up & down until you have a clean mortise. I know it sounds a bit dodgy & rough, thats exactly what i thought when shown for the first time, but i used this method for years very successfully . I did use the router for the face plate.
You also do this while the door is hanging, so do away with the need for taking it off & then re-swinging.
I know loads of people who drill then chisel. It's horses for courses, but for me, to route a clean square mortice when the door is off - which it will be for fitting a new lock/latch, the door has to come of when shooting it in and morticing the hinges (which are also routed) and have the handles fit perfectly without having to keep adjusting where it rubs a router is a far quicker, neater job. Loads of people try to convince me that the old ways are the best, but when time is money. it's light years ahead.
I'd love to give you a race with a side bet mate.
I was just thinking before you said it....surely that would double up as a morticer jig too. could certainly be handy. Would it work with a T5 :-)
+Sharp Edge Woodworking I use mine set up mostly for the face plates with the T5, and the smaller router is limited to depth of plunge, so for the lock mortice I use the T11.
I have though used the T5 to cut as much of a lock mortice as possible, then gone back and drilled the rest out as I forgot to pack the bigger router!😂😂😂
Richard Morley I take it it's compatible with none-trend routers then....so I could use my big hitachi presumably with the 30 bush?
+Sharp Edge Woodworking certainly, as long as you use the right combo cutter and guidebush. Some routers don't have the right size guidebush available to fit directly, to the addition of the unibase means the trend guidebush can be added.
Why didnt you show them in action.
Can’t remember…. This video was 8 years ago……….
Would you recommend the trend t11 or the t10 router for general site work?
Also can you point me in the right direction on which cutters to buy and guide bush for the adjustable lock jig?
+mike thompson apart from the base plate they're basically the same router. The T11 has a larger aperture to it will accept larger bits and is adjustable from below. If you ever plan to put it in a table, that's the model you want. If you're only planning on using hand held then the T10.
Honestly though for the difference in price, personally I think it's worth the extra few quid.
It comes with the 30mm guide bush for the lock jigs. You just want a 12mm cutter, the longer the better, the longest has a 63mm cut length.
Hope this helps.👍
Richard Morley if I just need a router for house bashing do you think the t10 would suit me better? Don't plan on putting in in a table tbh, so the router comes with the right guide bush for the adjustable lock jig? And will the long 12mm cutter do the mortise as well as the face plate?
+mike thompson in that case probably yes, T10. You can still quite happily mount it in a table, you just have to adjust from below when it's mounted.
Yeah, the jig works for 30GB/12cut. If you look on the trend website at the lock jigs (there's 3 in total), it'll list the compatible cutters. There's a few options but they're all. 12mm diameter.
It cuts lock mortise and face plate.
Strike plate on the lining still cut old school.
How deep does the guide bush have to go? trend say you need a 10mm spigot but my festool has an 8mm - would that be deep enough?
Hi there! The reason they 10 mm is so the end registers on the height stops. Else you'll ride right over them and trash it and your cutter! :-(
From memory the festool routers won't take the Trend guide bushes, so it may be a case of getting a sub base/unibase as well. Personally I'd take your guide bush into the shop and test it. If it hits on the end stops your good to go, does festool make a 30mm long reach guide bush?
Hope this helps.
***** How thick is the top piece ? I have to buy online so I can not test it
I've just measured it with a depth gauge, personally I think you'll get away with an 8mm spigot. It is enough to make full contact with the top of the two - part height stops.
Thanks Richard, - bit late noticing your comment but i will get one ordered soon
I need the plate that you show on the video the small one ,were you get it please?
Anthony Legra sorry, which plate.... what’s the time stamp??
The one with 2 aperture for a single latch ,
In the mn 9:19 is tha one made for you self or you buy it .?
Thanks
Anthony Legra it came with the jig.
@@BrainFizz that not what you said , you said trend had to make it for you because it never came with the jig ?
If you had to pick one ??
A tough one...... One onlyIt would be the older metal bodied one, but generally I use the same few locks... this type is far better when the client specifies the lock which might not fit the metal templates I already have.... but this might not be the case for everyone.
@@BrainFizz Site/house-bashing we don't know which make and model locks are coming our way so the newer would be better?
Couldnt concentrate on you. The cat stole the show!
Seems fair to me! :-)
Nothing can be seen from the jig from this distance :(
Well thats 17 mins of my life I'm not getting back, how about next time you show us the jig and how it works
+The President of The Internet Hmm I’m going to assume from your comment that you were displeased with the content of the video.
So other than trying to sound smart, and self important, what other talents do you possess?
You realise that even had you enjoyed the video, you wouldn’t get the 17 minutes back, right??!!
Oh, and actually it’s probably more like 22 minutes. Allowing for a reasonably intelligent individual to think up and type a reply. So maybe longer.
And of course to read this comment.
maybe next time to could show it being used
Great idea. keep your eye peeled for that!
Will do mate