Sport Climbing 🧗♂️ | DAY 8 | Full Replay | European Championships Munich 2022
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- Relive Sport Climbing from day 8 of the European Championships Munich 2022! 🧗♂️
COMPETITIONS:
- Men's Boulder & Lead Final - Boulder
- Men's Boulder & Lead Final - Lead
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Loved listening in on the men discussing the routes in iso! What fun insight!
So Adam has the full set of medals from Munich: gold, silver, bronz. Crazy. And so happy for Jakob, he deserved a medal from here!
Great spoiler dude
@@peterhamnett Man, don't read the comments before watching a comp!
@@TristanCleveland fr, makes no sense. He's literally asking for it by being on the comments
I can live with the new scoring systems, I just wish we could actually see the climbers properly. Worst camera footage of a climbing comp as far back as I can remember. So many moves where I had no idea what's going on but at least I could see how tense the climbers forearms were
Best moment min. 41:41 Gratulation allen Teilnehmern und ganz besonders Jakob!
1:10:19 it is isnt it? 😉🤣
39:44, 1:30:13
What is the level of difficulty of the lead?
8C maybe, its not too difficult in terms of technique but its extreme draining because of the overhang. Its more about Endurance than it is relative difficulty.
I'd say int erms of the moves permorfed its no harder than a 7C+ or 8A but because of the overhang and endurance required kinda bumps it up to 8C/8C+ in terms of physical strength needed.
Thats just my personal opinion though. No idea what the actual grade is.
Not the best scoring system as lead basically let's you take over your bad result in bouldering. We could not do bouldering then and the scores would have been pretty the same. Why make this system complicated when it could be simple, but it's better than the 2020 Olympics scoring system, almost there
Your camera work is terrible. Over and over, you miss critical moments because you've zoomed in on the climber's face or fingers, or the camera is panning so far back that the climber is a speck on the wall, or you've cut to a coach's reaction. This is easy stuff. Keep a medium shot showing the climber's whole body, as well as the hold they're moving to. Save the other stuff for the replays.
Whoever did the filming, made a lot of the shots confusing. I'm all good with a closeup here and there, but having so many closeups, kind of ruin the perspective. It reminded me of the videos on TH-cam, when people try to beat the copyright.
I didn't think I was going to like this format but it's better than I thought it would be. The scoring on the lead probably could use an intermediate score in the middle zone.
Longtime coming for Jakob! ♥️
i hope one day boulder will be considered as lead climbing....and that the camera work will stop this instagram good looking movement...
Dont think its fairplay for french climbers due to scaling point on lead climbing. Lets see on rank, 2nd and 3rd on boulder, 6th and 7th on lead. Result is 6th and 7th place. Maybe not the best way fot olympics, because boulder has insignificant effect for final result.
But great performance from every single climber.
not really
in boulder places 1 - 4 were super close, separated by one attempt.
in lead the two french guys fell 10 - 20 moves below the top guys. big big difference.
sounds fair to me
Feels like this new format favours strong lead climbers over strong boulderers
Agree...
Maybe just because no one got close to the full 100 points in the boulder round and yet several people almost topped the route? So it turned out that lead was worth more than boulder for several people in this comp but if the boulders had been slightly easier and the route harder then the strong boulderers would've stacked up higher in the ranking. I guess we'll see how this plays out in future comps!
It does, points up the headwall make a huge difference in the final score. Even if you top a boulder that nobody else does you'll still need to be a decent way up the lead wall to stand a chance.
@@JohnDennery that's a good point, the difficulty of each round makes a substantial difference, will be hard for routesetters to navigate that. The boulders and lead route by themselves did a good job separating the climbers, stacked together with the scoring it made the results kinda surprising!
@@VDB420 yeah you’re right actually, the first 3/4 of the route is probably worth about as much as a single boulder. Maybe they should have the route start in the 1pt zone and then go to a 2pt and 3pt zone instead of 5? That would reward people more for going like 2/3 or 3/4 of the way up the route. They would still have a good shot at podium if their boulder round was decent. Maybe 1, 2, 3, and 5 point zones?