In my opinion. Out of all the videos I've seen so far, yours is the best. I disassembled a Minn Kota Endura C2 30 30" the other day with no problems. I did this before watching your video, I did it exactly the same way you showed. As I have dissembled many motors through the years. Other people just start dissembling without being aware they could damage things even more. My problem with mine, water got inside and shorted the motor along with locking up the ball bearing. Looks like the speed controller is bad too. Thanks again for you video.
I agree. Better video than the others I've seen. I opened up a motor today, but mine is beyond repair. Looking for replacement now. Thanks for the vid, Mr. Fix them things!
I watched your video because my 16 year old MK 30 Endura motor has been making a funny grinding noise for a couple of years - on and off - I decided to do a repair before it failed on me out in the middle of the lake or I did some permanent damage to it by continuing to use it. It came apart surprisingly easily. But the end cap seals were hard to get out, especially the inner seal. Removing the brass bushing was the only way I could do it. Then it popped out easily. I cut a 1-1/2" hole in a 2x4 cutoff to put the end cap on when I drove the seals and bushing out. I didn't want to do it on the vice for fear of damaging the powder coating. That was useful for the installation of the seals and bushing, too. The interior was very clean and the brushes were in good shape with only minimal wear and there were no seal leaks. The bearing and seals looked fine. No rust or moisture. There was some carbon dust inside the magnet case and in the brushes holder area that I blew out with the compressor. Nothing looked amiss. Before I took it apart I put a piece of tape down the side of the motor and cut it with a razor at the 2 seams so I could re-place all the parts in the same configuration they were when I removed them. It all cleaned up and was easy to replace the parts from the kit but when I put it back together, I discovered that the end cap had been rotated 1/2" clockwise when it had been originally built because the tape on the end cap was 1/2" offset so the long screws were "twisted" to the right when I tightened them. That is, when I tightened the long "Thru Screws", the tape on the end cap would not line up like it was when I took it apart without twisting the cap counterclockwise 1/2" and holding it in place. I didn't do that and let it find its correct and non-stressed position. What do you make of that? Could that have caused the noise I heard? But it only started 14 years after I had used the motor. ODD! The motor runs fine. I have not run it in the water yet. I will update this post after I do.
I subbed after watching this video. I bought the seal kit, new brushes and the magnetic armature housing. The only thing I would add is that it is important to perform this tear down in the vertical position like you did. I did it on the boat in the resting (horizontal) position with the prop hanging over the side of the boat. When I pulled the armature out the magnetic outer casing landed on my foot before hitting the concrete shattering the magnets. You don’t know what you don’t know till you know. Great job! UPS delivers parts tomorrow. Far and away the best video. Just stop hammering on your camera and put it on an independent structure 😂
Gary Johnson So appreciate your instruction down to each detail, it gave me confidence I could do this. I just got my new kayak with trolling motor in the water last week and 2nd day out, tipped the kayak. Everything in the water> I had rigged up my trolling motor, by removing the control head and wiring connected to CWM control box. I had an elbow pvc cap were wires come out of shaft, but it was not sealed off., trolling motor filled with water. Opened it up, drained all the water out letting it dry out and now attempting to put it back together and came across your video. With the help of your video. I hope to put it back together tomorrow
This is the only video I've found that shows the armature shaft seal removal and installation. Thank you. I'm still having trouble getting the new seals down, guess I need to get some lube/grease
This kit was exactly what I was looking for. Mine just quit on me over the weekend. Got it home and took it apart, found that my seals have been bad for awhile and letting water in. It rusted the E clip in half which let my armature jump out just enough to where the brushes no longer made contact. Also my bearing is seized. So this kit is gonna be perfect. Has everything Im needing! Thanks a million brother 👍🏼 great video
Thank you for the informative video. I did not follow your advice of marking the parts before disassembling and ended up reversing the control, causing boats to go backward when turning the knob to Forward and vice versa. I disassembled it again and put the housing assembly (the cylinder thingy with the magnets in it) upside down, and it fixed it. None of the videos including this one does not talk about is that there is a "--" mark on the housing unit that indicates it needs to be pointing downward (underside). I hope this helps anyone who may end up where I did. :)
Thanks for pointing this out. I've been there. done that and it's really annoying to admit to the wonderful wife bearing her gorgeous bikini tied bossoms that I messed up a zero and a one.
Good thing you did because you wouldn’t have a watertight seal. BTW… Minn Kota rep said their bench guys ALWAYS use a new seal kit every time they open up a motor. Cheap insurance. Like $8 on the website at Minn Kota.
I had the same issue of taking the old brushes out of the motor. I finally used a dremel to cut a notch in the holder slot so I could get a pliers around the tab. But later, i took the whole brush plate assembly off and thought it would be easier in the future to take that plate off and get to the connectors from the back. When I install them I'll spray with WD40 and connect them from the back side and then install the plate. I have the 2001 Endura 38 and the backing plate isn't in stock so I have to be careful with it. There were some felt pieces in it, but I'll just use it without that. Also a little dab of CV joint grease on the backing plate and armature bearing. The 38 has different bearing set up on the end and there is a ball bearing that is on it, so I'm not going to replace that bearing. The ball bearing isn't in stock. The whole motor was packed full of mud when I opened it. A lot of cleaning. Thanks for the video, it helps the confidence.
We stone traction motor armatures auxy gens and main alternators on locomotives all the time when needed. You’re right about the brushes arcing on the armature. A stalled motor under load will raise the bars on an armature and then break the brushes once it begins turning again.
Great video. Pro Tip> Take a cheap tweezers (Dollar Tree) and hold the base pliers and bend the legs apart far enough to make a tool to spread the brushes apart while you work the armature in place. I could not do it with my fingers.
Great video. Easy to follow. A small error: the steel washer should go on first against the retaining ring, then the nylatron washer. Any tip to position the magnet correctly other than just trying it out? I bought a new magnet to replace my old one (broken). I was told if I do not position it right, the motor may go backwards. Thanks,
Are you sure about that? I took mine apart today and it was the opposite of what you said. Mine has never been apart before me so that’s why I believe it is according to what he said in the video
@@nickwessel4344 There is a small mark on the rotor (middle part with magnets inside) and you must align this sign with the "fin". This is only correct position. If you do opposite - motor will change direction of rotation.
On the disassembly videos I've watched, the shaft with magnets just slide right off. But mine won't budge. It's as if it's glued or bolted on. I have a powerdrive. Any advice on removing it?
@@fixthemthings I dont know how to measure that, im from Portugal and i think the metric system is different, however, looking to the kit you have on vid and the one in the link below, they are exactly like mine :-)
Curious if you can guide me. Unit was running really rough until it quit. There was a lot of water/corrosion in the unit. I replaced my brushes, O rings just like you showed. Everything went great per your great video. It still didn't work and so I opened up the switch. I can see the negative was melted to the switch. Before I order a new switch, is it possible to run the unit without a switch so I know I did not screw something up? Really like your video and since it was so easy to follow, I am pretty sure I did everything correctly. Thanks Mike
@@dogguy2351 are you sure the brushes are making contact with the armature? Are the springs in good? Did the wire connection come off of the brush holder? Check these things.
@@fixthemthings All fixed!!! Figured out how to test the switch and it was good. There were 2 things. The shaft had slipped down causing the brushes to ride high and nick the armature. After that was easily tapped up, I discovered the battery terminal had come loose under the plate that the armature bearing rides on. That was done by a simple continuity test. Runs like new and I couldn't have done it without your video. Thanks again!
what do i do when the motor gets power intermittently? sometimes when i turn the handle the motor works, sometimes it does not. Even when the motor works though its significantly less propulsion that it used to have, and a bit nosier too. Thanks!
Where are you measuring the voltage to the motor? Are you saying the voltage sometimes drops going to the motor or the motor is just stopping. If the motor is just stopping with voltage going to it, then brushes are bad. If you keep losing voltage then it will be the handle switch.
I’m also having the same issue. I thought it was my control box and bought a replacement but when I installed the new control box, the motor didn’t work either.
@@fixthemthings I was able to disassemble it, but when I got to the brush, a lot of liquid came out. The inside of my trolling motor doesn’t look dry and clean like yours. My trolling motor was submerged in water before due to launching from a steep hill.
You really don't need the gaskets I bought a Bass pro shop 55 thrust trolling motor for $20 the only thing that was wrong the magnet was not glued and freely roaming so I glued it with high temp silicone and use that same silicone where the gaskets would go tightened everything and it kicks ASS on my kayak 🤠
Rebuilt the motor, Ya it works. That was the only problem. It wasn't the potted module in the motor compartment (guessing it has couple of coils inside there.?), it wasn't the speed controller ($9). I placed the original speed controller back in and it works. Trying to install the armature while holding the brushes away is challenging. Tried to make a holder to keep the brushes apart while inserting the armature but didn't work very well. After dis/re-assembling this trolling motor, I'm not happy with the design of Minn Kota C2 30lb trolling motor. The other models are probably built the same way. The ball bearing end at the commutator doesn't fit very firmly in the location. Too much play in my opinion. The shaft end of the propeller is just a bronze sleeve bearing. Another design issue I don't like is the springs that pushes the brushes against the commutator. There's too much space for the spring to move around against the back of the brushes. This will cause the brushes to run against the commutator with uneven pressure. The original brushes were worn uneven. This tells me the spring was against either the top or bottom of the back side of the brushes. They should have square springs that would prevent the springs from moving around. I'm just wondering if the square end of the spring should go against the brushes, hopefully applying equal pressure. I know we were always told to put things back together the way you dissembled. But being a technical trainer / instructor for many years. I avoid teaching the students that because someone else could have worked on it before us repairing and have reassembled incorrectly or maybe the original manufacture assemble instructions were wrong. Always follow the service manual work instructions if there available. I also noticed the parts diagram it shows the steel washer goes against the ‘E’ clip then the nylon washer. Thanks again for the video.
I hope the video helped. I filmed as I went. First time rebuilding one of those. I agree the motor section is poorly designed. I figure we will be doing this again in a few years depending on how much we use it.
That’s a good point about the springs possibility being installed backwards? When I got my first peek down the tube before pulling the armature out I saw that one of the springs looked like a ‘Slinky’. I’m going to look into it on my rebuild. BTW.. I used electrical tape and twisted it in the middle so I could use the copper wire to hold the springs and brushes back on my first go round. Then carefully snipped one side of the twisted tape near the bend releasing the brushes. I had one of the brushes that got broken in half from impact and tried to repair it. Didn’t get contact so I took it back apart and ordered new ones and figured out why the motor needs to in a vertical position when the magnetic casing shot off the hub and hit my foot and then the concrete. Painful lesson x 2.
Loosen the motor bolts! Does it free up then? If so, locktite the bolts and snug up until it frees up. Otherwise, it may be the brushes catching or bearings jammed up.
1/4” seems excessive. Sounds like maybe one of the washers/spacers is missing. I’ll have to see how much play mine has. I would think 1/8” or less would be normal. I would think 1/4” would make the brushes go half way off of the armature. If I remember correctly, there should be a spring washer at the end of the shaft but it would only spring maybe 1/16”-1/8”.
Is there a certain way the brushes have to go in? I just replaced mine and now my motor won't run. I cant figure out why. Any ideas? Only thing I replaced was the brushes.
The brush installation is the hardest part of the whole project. Make sure the brush connectors are on tight. The brush from what I remember can go in either way. Make sure your springs are on properly. If there are no springs, it won’t push against the armature.
I have an older Minn Kota that has issues. 5 forward gears and 3 reverse. It only works in one forward gear, and one reverse. Any idea what the problem is? Thank you in advance.
Sounds like the problem is in the rotary switch. Wouldn’t be the brushes if it works in some speeds. Check for corrosion on the wire connections in the handle especially if this motor sat outside.
@@fixthemthings Same thing happened to my older MK Turbo 90 just yesterday, going to look into it now. 1st time out with the jon boat since last sept. I've been pretty much using the kayak for the last 2 plus years and the motor sits in the shop. Thanks RC in NJ
My minn kota endura will run for few minutes good then as it warmed up it got slower and slower and finally stopped. You got any idea what it could be. Also switching from forward to reverse it wouldn't always go to reverse
Most likely bad brushes. Are you doing this in the water or out? Don’t run it out of the water except just momentary. For forward reverse the brushes are probably moving inside the brush holder. Put in reverse and then move the prop with something safe to see if it will then turn. Most likely brushes.
@@dmobley1089 maybe the brush springs are not strong enough keeping the brush against the armature. Could also be your switch. Let me know what you find. Try cleaning the armature with an erasure.
Try getting the shaft seals out of using that method on something that doesn't look like it has ever been in the water like the one in your video. I about beat a punch flat trying to get mine out like that.
Hola compre minn kota de 36..lb lo puse a prueba en el agua con una.bateria convencional de auto y no tiene.potencia no jala la canoa con fuerza. Que tengo que hacer para que me aumente la potencia tiene que ver el tipo de batería o es otra avería. Agradezco su informacion
I’m not able to get all of my 3 main outside pieces to go together the top won’t go together with the bottom two, there’s a gap and it will not go down any further
Did you get the bearing on all the way and get the brushes seated correctly? You may have the outer piece on backwards. I won’t know anything without looking at it.
I have a Minn Kota trolling motor Endura C2 30lb thrust. Does anybody know what that molded / epoxied section in the front motor case is? It has there wires into it, two-yellow and one white. Sure it's part of the speed controller. Maybe the Power MOSFET drivers. Placing in the motor case in the water to keep them cooler (Of course just guessing). I'll take back what I mentioned about that incased/potted section in front of the motor compartment. I saw the part description of that part, SPCOIL Speed Coils - FW potted. I ohmed those three wires "YEL/WHT/YEL" all three of them ohm out to zero ohms. So maybe those are coils / inductors / surge protectors ????
Resistors. I have no experience with these motors, but have been researching it lately. The speed controlling is done with resistors. They reduce power for the lower speed settings, and convert the *wasted* electricity into heat, so that's why they are housed in an underwater location; for cooling...as you mentioned. There may be other names for them, but they are resistors.
@@blaisetreinen1677 I’m not convinced that potted module contains resistors. I ohmed the three wires (YEL/WHT/YEL) to each other. All combinations ohm out to 0.5 ohms. Don’t think three wires would provide four different speeds 8/9/10/11 volts. Or maybe two of the speeds are handled in the speed controller itself and two other speeds are handled in those coils in that potted module? Normally when resistors fail due to excessive current, they will open. Currently I’m in the process of rebuilding the trolling motor's (DC motor). In the meantime, I am using a different DC motor to simulate the trolling motor. My first guess when the speed control didn’t work with that substituted DC motor was that the speed controller was defective so I ordered a brand-new speed controller but I still have the same results as before. The problem before replacing the speed controller and with the new speed controller is that I have full speed 12volts across all five positions forward and all negative voltages on all three reverse positions. That’s why I am questioning what is exactly inside the molded section. I was going to disassemble the old speed controller to see what’s inside other than just switches, not sure if there is some type of electronic circuit that helps regulate the speed or not. After revisiting more information, it does look like there is two coils in that potted material. I don't like that process of speed controlling because of the heat it generates. I'm thinking of installing a PWM module.
Now I'm wondering if it could be that I'm not using the original motor, since this substitute motor isn't drawing as much current. When the motor rebuilt comes in, I'm going to reassemble the original motor to see if it will work.
Yes, the 'old' speed controls just inserted various resistor values in series with the motor, wasting battery energy as heat, and leaving less for the motor. A PWM motor/speed controller is much more efficient. I'm using a "100 amp" eBay controller (rated for 60A continuous), on my 40# MinnKota. The tricky part is making the controller 'boat proof'. I'm using a plastic dry box with a clamshell vent. Hopefully this controller will hold up. I tried a $15 "50A" controller--it lasted for a few hours, but ended up popping a MOSFET. The 100A controller (about $50) has bigger MOSFETs, bolted to a heatsink with a fan mounted on top.
Knocking while running in water? Do not run it out of the water. Water lubricates it and it may knock without water. If it’s new, I would exchange it for another.
I found the issue. The brush that connects to the negative wire underneath the brush assembly wasn’t connected. It works and I used(tested) it today for about 2 hours of fishing. However my trolling motor seems to have picked up some vibrations. Not terrible but noticeable.
Sounds like something is in a bind. I would spin by hand without power and see how easy it is to turn. You may have gotten a brush jammed up in there. Maybe a brush spring became dislodged.
@@richarddemello4648 it will rot it away... if vasoline is used on poly it usually will swell if not rot. why bother when theres grease for the job. google "petroleum on o-ring"
You must unscrew the bolts and rotate middle part (stator) for 90 degrees and tight again - you have a litlle mark (line) on stator that you must align with the "fin". If you don't align - motor will change direction of rotation (which is what happened to you).
Mine lasted 4 years and it is a crummy design. All they have on the prop shaft is a rubber washer that lasted about as long as a washer in your garden hose. Then it got hard, misshaped and allowed water to leak inside the motor. Warranty three years, motor lasted four. Duhhhh
Next time lube all your rubber seals with silicone grease for rubber. I gotta can on Amazon with the brush under the lid and it has a thousand and one uses. Even tried it on the drain plug and it made a world of difference.
![[DRIP] ‘Love, Maybe’ PREVIEW](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U7hwHp95m1k/mqdefault.jpg)
I must have watched this 15 times and I can now report success this evening! Thank you...I couldn't have done it without you!
Glad I could help! Thanks.
In my opinion. Out of all the videos I've seen so far, yours is the best. I disassembled a Minn Kota Endura C2 30 30" the other day with no problems. I did this before watching your video, I did it exactly the same way you showed. As I have dissembled many motors through the years. Other people just start dissembling without being aware they could damage things even more. My problem with mine, water got inside and shorted the motor along with locking up the ball bearing. Looks like the speed controller is bad too. Thanks again for you video.
I agree. Better video than the others I've seen. I opened up a motor today, but mine is beyond repair. Looking for replacement now. Thanks for the vid, Mr. Fix them things!
I guess I’m one of those “other people” but still much cheaper than a shop. Life is a learning curve.
I watched your video because my 16 year old MK 30 Endura motor has been making a funny grinding noise for a couple of years - on and off - I decided to do a repair before it failed on me out in the middle of the lake or I did some permanent damage to it by continuing to use it.
It came apart surprisingly easily. But the end cap seals were hard to get out, especially the inner seal. Removing the brass bushing was the only way I could do it. Then it popped out easily. I cut a 1-1/2" hole in a 2x4 cutoff to put the end cap on when I drove the seals and bushing out. I didn't want to do it on the vice for fear of damaging the powder coating. That was useful for the installation of the seals and bushing, too.
The interior was very clean and the brushes were in good shape with only minimal wear and there were no seal leaks. The bearing and seals looked fine. No rust or moisture. There was some carbon dust inside the magnet case and in the brushes holder area that I blew out with the compressor. Nothing looked amiss.
Before I took it apart I put a piece of tape down the side of the motor and cut it with a razor at the 2 seams so I could re-place all the parts in the same configuration they were when I removed them.
It all cleaned up and was easy to replace the parts from the kit but when I put it back together, I discovered that the end cap had been rotated 1/2" clockwise when it had been originally built because the tape on the end cap was 1/2" offset so the long screws were "twisted" to the right when I tightened them. That is, when I tightened the long "Thru Screws", the tape on the end cap would not line up like it was when I took it apart without twisting the cap counterclockwise 1/2" and holding it in place. I didn't do that and let it find its correct and non-stressed position.
What do you make of that? Could that have caused the noise I heard? But it only started 14 years after I had used the motor. ODD!
The motor runs fine. I have not run it in the water yet. I will update this post after I do.
I subbed after watching this video. I bought the seal kit, new brushes and the magnetic armature housing. The only thing I would add is that it is important to perform this tear down in the vertical position like you did. I did it on the boat in the resting (horizontal) position with the prop hanging over the side of the boat. When I pulled the armature out the magnetic outer casing landed on my foot before hitting the concrete shattering the magnets. You don’t know what you don’t know till you know. Great job! UPS delivers parts tomorrow. Far and away the best video. Just stop hammering on your camera and put it on an independent structure 😂
Gary Johnson
So appreciate your instruction down to each detail, it gave me confidence I could do this.
I just got my new kayak with trolling motor in the water last week and 2nd day out, tipped the kayak. Everything in the water> I had rigged up my trolling motor, by removing the control head and wiring connected to CWM control box. I had an elbow pvc cap were wires come out of shaft, but it was not sealed off., trolling motor filled with water. Opened it up, drained all the water out letting it dry out and now attempting to put it back together and came across your video. With the help of your video. I hope to put it back together tomorrow
Without this video I have no clue what I would have done.
Thanks
This is the only video I've found that shows the armature shaft seal removal and installation. Thank you. I'm still having trouble getting the new seals down, guess I need to get some lube/grease
This kit was exactly what I was looking for. Mine just quit on me over the weekend. Got it home and took it apart, found that my seals have been bad for awhile and letting water in. It rusted the E clip in half which let my armature jump out just enough to where the brushes no longer made contact. Also my bearing is seized. So this kit is gonna be perfect. Has everything Im needing! Thanks a million brother 👍🏼 great video
Hey. Glad it helped you.
Thank you sir. Much appreciated and the small tips on pushing the bearings in and out were a huge help!!
Very thorough. Made it seem not to bad. And where to get the parts was big help! Thank you!
Nice TY. When I get ready to do my motor, I will watch the video again! 👍🏼
Thank you for the informative video. I did not follow your advice of marking the parts before disassembling and ended up reversing the control, causing boats to go backward when turning the knob to Forward and vice versa. I disassembled it again and put the housing assembly (the cylinder thingy with the magnets in it) upside down, and it fixed it. None of the videos including this one does not talk about is that there is a "--" mark on the housing unit that indicates it needs to be pointing downward (underside). I hope this helps anyone who may end up where I did. :)
Thanks for pointing this out. I've been there. done that and it's really annoying to admit to the wonderful wife bearing her gorgeous bikini tied bossoms that I messed up a zero and a one.
Good thing you did because you wouldn’t have a watertight seal. BTW… Minn Kota rep said their bench guys ALWAYS use a new seal kit every time they open up a motor. Cheap insurance. Like $8 on the website at Minn Kota.
Thanks brother great video! Haven't done one of these in a long time, awesome thorough step by step R&R.
I had the same issue of taking the old brushes out of the motor. I finally used a dremel to cut a notch in the holder slot so I could get a pliers around the tab. But later, i took the whole brush plate assembly off and thought it would be easier in the future to take that plate off and get to the connectors from the back. When I install them I'll spray with WD40 and connect them from the back side and then install the plate. I have the 2001 Endura 38 and the backing plate isn't in stock so I have to be careful with it. There were some felt pieces in it, but I'll just use it without that. Also a little dab of CV joint grease on the backing plate and armature bearing. The 38 has different bearing set up on the end and there is a ball bearing that is on it, so I'm not going to replace that bearing. The ball bearing isn't in stock. The whole motor was packed full of mud when I opened it. A lot of cleaning. Thanks for the video, it helps the confidence.
We stone traction motor armatures auxy gens and main alternators on locomotives all the time when needed. You’re right about the brushes arcing on the armature. A stalled motor under load will raise the bars on an armature and then break the brushes once it begins turning again.
Best DIY video ! Thank you so much !!!!!! Helps a lot !
THX ! and before the final screwdown twist until you get max rpm. 😎
great vid had pretty good idea how to do this your idea to get rear bearing off genious just rebuilt my endura 40 lb works like new
Thank you, extremely helpful and detailed video👍🇬🇧
Looks good, the only thing is I think the metal washer and the nylon washer are backwards
Great video. Pro Tip> Take a cheap tweezers (Dollar Tree) and hold the base pliers and bend the legs apart far enough to make a tool to spread the brushes apart while you work the armature in place. I could not do it with my fingers.
I zip tied each side until the motor was in then cut it and pulled the zip ties out lol
great diy repair !! thx. i have at LEAST 3 motors i need to PM on. Zeke NC
Great video. Easy to follow. A small error: the steel washer should go on first against the retaining ring, then the nylatron washer.
Any tip to position the magnet correctly other than just trying it out? I bought a new magnet to replace my old one (broken). I was told if I do not position it right, the motor may go backwards. Thanks,
Are you sure about that? I took mine apart today and it was the opposite of what you said. Mine has never been apart before me so that’s why I believe it is according to what he said in the video
@@nickwessel4344 There is a small mark on the rotor (middle part with magnets inside) and you must align this sign with the "fin". This is only correct position. If you do opposite - motor will change direction of rotation.
On the disassembly videos I've watched, the shaft with magnets just slide right off. But mine won't budge. It's as if it's glued or bolted on. I have a powerdrive. Any advice on removing it?
Nice vid, it was exactly what i need, but i have a question, i have an Minnkota Endurance C2 40Lbs, does the kit fit too? Thank you!
That would be a good question for the parts supplier. Is yours 3 1/4” diameter? I think they go by diameter more than the model.
@@fixthemthings I dont know how to measure that, im from Portugal and i think the metric system is different, however, looking to the kit you have on vid and the one in the link below, they are exactly like mine :-)
I just ordered the parts kit for my 30lb motor. If I recall correctly, the 3 1/4 kit fits up to the 45lb thrust motor.
I just did mine I have a c2..this kit is perfect fit
Curious if you can guide me. Unit was running really rough until it quit. There was a lot of water/corrosion in the unit. I replaced my brushes, O rings just like you showed. Everything went great per your great video. It still didn't work and so I opened up the switch. I can see the negative was melted to the switch. Before I order a new switch, is it possible to run the unit without a switch so I know I did not screw something up? Really like your video and since it was so easy to follow, I am pretty sure I did everything correctly. Thanks Mike
Should be able to hook the motor leads straight to the battery to test.
@@fixthemthings Thanks. That's what I thought but nothing??? Got me stumped.
@@dogguy2351 are you sure the brushes are making contact with the armature? Are the springs in good? Did the wire connection come off of the brush holder? Check these things.
@@fixthemthings Thanks. I'll take it apart tomorrow and check those recommendations. I'll be in touch. Thanks for your time. Mike
@@fixthemthings All fixed!!! Figured out how to test the switch and it was good. There were 2 things. The shaft had slipped down causing the brushes to ride high and nick the armature. After that was easily tapped up, I discovered the battery terminal had come loose under the plate that the armature bearing rides on. That was done by a simple continuity test. Runs like new and I couldn't have done it without your video. Thanks again!
Thanks for this vid. My motor runs like new now
Awesome!
Very thorough. Well made. Good job.
Awesome vid !!! I had the same problem. Thanks a million
what do i do when the motor gets power intermittently? sometimes when i turn the handle the motor works, sometimes it does not. Even when the motor works though its significantly less propulsion that it used to have, and a bit nosier too. Thanks!
Where are you measuring the voltage to the motor? Are you saying the voltage sometimes drops going to the motor or the motor is just stopping. If the motor is just stopping with voltage going to it, then brushes are bad. If you keep losing voltage then it will be the handle switch.
I’m also having the same issue. I thought it was my control box and bought a replacement but when I installed the new control box, the motor didn’t work either.
@@thayingxiong4600did you ohm out the motor already. It should read near 1-5 ohms. If it doesn’t then the brushes are most likely bad.
@@fixthemthings I was able to disassemble it, but when I got to the brush, a lot of liquid came out. The inside of my trolling motor doesn’t look dry and clean like yours. My trolling motor was submerged in water before due to launching from a steep hill.
You mounted the washer's the other way around. The correct way is the steel washer first and then the nylon washer
I can't take out ARMATURE. I think bearing has rust with BRUSH PLATE W/HOLDER. Do you have any idea?
You really don't need the gaskets I bought a Bass pro shop 55 thrust trolling motor for $20 the only thing that was wrong the magnet was not glued and freely roaming so I glued it with high temp silicone and use that same silicone where the gaskets would go tightened everything and it kicks ASS on my kayak 🤠
I am wondering about the 2nd, plastic seal for the end housing. One side has a lip and the other is flat - so which way does it go in?
Save the day!!! And the motor too. Thank you very much!
Rebuilt the motor, Ya it works. That was the only problem. It wasn't the potted module in the motor compartment (guessing it has couple of coils inside there.?), it wasn't the speed controller ($9). I placed the original speed controller back in and it works. Trying to install the armature while holding the brushes away is challenging. Tried to make a holder to keep the brushes apart while inserting the armature but didn't work very well. After dis/re-assembling this trolling motor, I'm not happy with the design of Minn Kota C2 30lb trolling motor. The other models are probably built the same way. The ball bearing end at the commutator doesn't fit very firmly in the location. Too much play in my opinion. The shaft end of the propeller is just a bronze sleeve bearing. Another design issue I don't like is the springs that pushes the brushes against the commutator. There's too much space for the spring to move around against the back of the brushes. This will cause the brushes to run against the commutator with uneven pressure. The original brushes were worn uneven. This tells me the spring was against either the top or bottom of the back side of the brushes. They should have square springs that would prevent the springs from moving around. I'm just wondering if the square end of the spring should go against the brushes, hopefully applying equal pressure. I know we were always told to put things back together the way you dissembled. But being a technical trainer / instructor for many years. I avoid teaching the students that because someone else could have worked on it before us repairing and have reassembled incorrectly or maybe the original manufacture assemble instructions were wrong. Always follow the service manual work instructions if there available. I also noticed the parts diagram it shows the steel washer goes against the ‘E’ clip then the nylon washer.
Thanks again for the video.
I hope the video helped. I filmed as I went. First time rebuilding one of those. I agree the motor section is poorly designed. I figure we will be doing this again in a few years depending on how much we use it.
That’s a good point about the springs possibility being installed backwards? When I got my first peek down the tube before pulling the armature out I saw that one of the springs looked like a ‘Slinky’. I’m going to look into it on my rebuild. BTW.. I used electrical tape and twisted it in the middle so I could use the copper wire to hold the springs and brushes back on my first go round. Then carefully snipped one side of the twisted tape near the bend releasing the brushes. I had one of the brushes that got broken in half from impact and tried to repair it. Didn’t get contact so I took it back apart and ordered new ones and figured out why the motor needs to in a vertical position when the magnetic casing shot off the hub and hit my foot and then the concrete. Painful lesson x 2.
The nylon and metal washer are installed wrong according to the book correct ?you said nylon first then metal .it should be metal then nylon .
I just did mine ...you right metal goes down first then nylon on top of it
But it was a good vid on taking the bearing off thank!!
@@bc7306 yes..very detailed guy...he did a great job .
@@iyadtiti So how come the metal one was on the top originally?
My prop won’t spin freely, has some resistance ? Any help
Loosen the motor bolts! Does it free up then? If so, locktite the bolts and snug up until it frees up. Otherwise, it may be the brushes catching or bearings jammed up.
Fantastic video, thank you so much
Why can I take my propeller and pull it out 1/4 inch? Seems like theirs a lot of play.
1/4” seems excessive. Sounds like maybe one of the washers/spacers is missing. I’ll have to see how much play mine has. I would think 1/8” or less would be normal. I would think 1/4” would make the brushes go half way off of the armature. If I remember correctly, there should be a spring washer at the end of the shaft but it would only spring maybe 1/16”-1/8”.
@@fixthemthings it may be a little less than a 1/4”. I can push it in and it sounds normal but when I pull it out, it makes a grinding sound.
Is there a certain way the brushes have to go in? I just replaced mine and now my motor won't run. I cant figure out why. Any ideas? Only thing I replaced was the brushes.
The brush installation is the hardest part of the whole project. Make sure the brush connectors are on tight. The brush from what I remember can go in either way. Make sure your springs are on properly. If there are no springs, it won’t push against the armature.
Are the orings for cap and magnet different? I think one is slimmer than the other. which goes where?
I’m sorry. I don’t remember. I would have to look back at my prints or video.
Not that it matters but the copper bars the brushes ride on is the commutator. The other bars is the armature in a DC motor.
I have an older Minn Kota that has issues.
5 forward gears and 3 reverse.
It only works in one forward gear, and one reverse.
Any idea what the problem is? Thank you in advance.
Sounds like the problem is in the rotary switch. Wouldn’t be the brushes if it works in some speeds. Check for corrosion on the wire connections in the handle especially if this motor sat outside.
@@fixthemthings thank you. I was thinking the same thing. Much appreciated.
@@fixthemthings Same thing happened to my older MK Turbo 90 just yesterday, going to look into it now. 1st time out with the jon boat since last sept. I've been pretty much using the kayak for the last 2 plus years and the motor sits in the shop. Thanks RC in NJ
My minn kota endura will run for few minutes good then as it warmed up it got slower and slower and finally stopped. You got any idea what it could be. Also switching from forward to reverse it wouldn't always go to reverse
Most likely bad brushes. Are you doing this in the water or out? Don’t run it out of the water except just momentary. For forward reverse the brushes are probably moving inside the brush holder. Put in reverse and then move the prop with something safe to see if it will then turn. Most likely brushes.
@@fixthemthings thanks,sounds like it but to my eyes the brushes don't look that wore but could be.
@@dmobley1089 maybe the brush springs are not strong enough keeping the brush against the armature. Could also be your switch. Let me know what you find. Try cleaning the armature with an erasure.
Try getting the shaft seals out of using that method on something that doesn't look like it has ever been in the water like the one in your video. I about beat a punch flat trying to get mine out like that.
Hola compre minn kota de 36..lb lo puse a prueba en el agua con una.bateria convencional de auto y no tiene.potencia no jala la canoa con fuerza. Que tengo que hacer para que me aumente la potencia tiene que ver el tipo de batería o es otra avería. Agradezco su informacion
i use crc electronic contact cleaner when i first take apart
thank you, great job
Спасибо. Замечательное видео.
Feel like the bearing I bought is too small... how to get the one that will fit?
Did you buy the kit according to your model? Should be correct if you did.
@@fixthemthings I have no idea where to find the kit lol just took an bearing that i had
Is that website reliable for ordering the kit ?
That’s where I bought it. It was delivered quick.
A well done video. Thanks!
The NV 55 is easy to use and provides good power to move my ...
What do i do when my motor just isnt getting any power
Most likely the brushes in the motor. Could be the throttle switch. Have to get a volt meter out and check.
I’m not able to get all of my 3 main outside pieces to go together the top won’t go together with the bottom two, there’s a gap and it will not go down any further
Did you get the bearing on all the way and get the brushes seated correctly? You may have the outer piece on backwards. I won’t know anything without looking at it.
Sounds like the magnetic hub is reversed.
I have a Minn Kota trolling motor Endura C2 30lb thrust. Does anybody know what that molded / epoxied section in the front motor case is? It has there wires into it, two-yellow and one white. Sure it's part of the speed controller. Maybe the Power MOSFET drivers. Placing in the motor case in the water to keep them cooler (Of course just guessing). I'll take back what I mentioned about that incased/potted section in front of the motor compartment. I saw the part description of that part, SPCOIL Speed Coils - FW potted. I ohmed those three wires "YEL/WHT/YEL" all three of them ohm out to zero ohms. So maybe those are coils / inductors / surge protectors ????
Resistors. I have no experience with these motors, but have been researching it lately. The speed controlling is done with resistors. They reduce power for the lower speed settings, and convert the *wasted* electricity into heat, so that's why they are housed in an underwater location; for cooling...as you mentioned. There may be other names for them, but they are resistors.
@@blaisetreinen1677 I’m not convinced that potted module contains resistors. I ohmed the three wires (YEL/WHT/YEL) to each other. All combinations ohm out to 0.5 ohms. Don’t think three wires would provide four different speeds 8/9/10/11 volts. Or maybe two of the speeds are handled in the speed controller itself and two other speeds are handled in those coils in that potted module?
Normally when resistors fail due to excessive current, they will open. Currently I’m in the process of rebuilding the trolling motor's (DC motor). In the meantime, I am using a different DC motor to simulate the trolling motor. My first guess when the speed control didn’t work with that substituted DC motor was that the speed controller was defective so I ordered a brand-new speed controller but I still have the same results as before. The problem before replacing the speed controller and with the new speed controller is that I have full speed 12volts across all five positions forward and all negative voltages on all three reverse positions. That’s why I am questioning what is exactly inside the molded section.
I was going to disassemble the old speed controller to see what’s inside other than just switches, not sure if there is some type of electronic circuit that helps regulate the speed or not. After revisiting more information, it does look like there is two coils in that potted material. I don't like that process of speed controlling because of the heat it generates. I'm thinking of installing a PWM module.
Now I'm wondering if it could be that I'm not using the original motor, since this substitute motor isn't drawing as much current. When the motor rebuilt comes in, I'm going to reassemble the original motor to see if it will work.
@@blaisetreinen1677 I'll be an Monkeys Uncle. The trolling motor works after rebuilding the motor.
Yes, the 'old' speed controls just inserted various resistor values in series with the motor, wasting battery energy as heat, and leaving less for the motor. A PWM motor/speed controller is much more efficient. I'm using a "100 amp" eBay controller (rated for 60A continuous), on my 40# MinnKota. The tricky part is making the controller 'boat proof'. I'm using a plastic dry box with a clamshell vent.
Hopefully this controller will hold up. I tried a $15 "50A" controller--it lasted for a few hours, but ended up popping a MOSFET. The 100A controller (about $50) has bigger MOSFETs, bolted to a heatsink with a fan mounted on top.
Mine is making a knocking noise.. it's brand new.. any suggestions
Knocking while running in water? Do not run it out of the water. Water lubricates it and it may knock without water. If it’s new, I would exchange it for another.
@@fixthemthings I bought the 2024 bass tracker classic xl from bass pro last Wed... I called them and they kept sending me to other people.. aarrrgggg
@@fixthemthings yes.. knocking while in the water.. sounds awful
Thanks boss!!! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Installing new brushes didn’t work. Should the new brushings be slightly loose?
Did you do all the power checks to see if 12v is going to brushes. No, the brushes should not be loose. Did you get the springs in correctly?
I found the issue. The brush that connects to the negative wire underneath the brush assembly wasn’t connected. It works and I used(tested) it today for about 2 hours of fishing. However my trolling motor seems to have picked up some vibrations. Not terrible but noticeable.
Thank you sir
I would like to ask from where can i buy this repairing kit ? Thanks
I have a link in the description of the video.
Thanks
Where can I find torque specs?
Hello, Have you found the answer -
Which Torque is recommended for tightening axial screws, propeller nuts, for motors 3 1/4, 4 1/4 ? Where?
Thanks
Thanks a bunch wished you were in Keller Tx having a bitch of a time with my minn kota riptide, frustrated need help but who knows thanks
If I were local to you I would be glad to help.
thanks man....i have to do the same thing!
I have a question i put it back now it spin very very hard you need to kickstart it with your foot do you now what to do?
Sounds like something is in a bind. I would spin by hand without power and see how easy it is to turn. You may have gotten a brush jammed up in there. Maybe a brush spring became dislodged.
Petroleum jelly works wonders as o-ring and seal lube.
that would eat up the seals
@@JosephMBoyer Used it for years while working on jets for the Navy. Lubes "o" rings to hold inplace or ease instalation over shafts.
@@richarddemello4648 it will rot it away... if vasoline is used on poly it usually will swell if not rot. why bother when theres grease for the job. google "petroleum on o-ring"
Advising anyone reading not to use vasoline for grease. lol. it's 2023 people.
I did it all, now I have 5 reverse speeds and 3 forward? What happened?
Somehow you got the motor wires crossed. Just switch the 2 wires going to the motor.
@@fixthemthingsyeah, I'm a dummy, in my rush to see if it worked, I hooked up the battery backwards...
You must unscrew the bolts and rotate middle part (stator) for 90 degrees and tight again - you have a litlle mark (line) on stator that you must align with the "fin". If you don't align - motor will change direction of rotation (which is what happened to you).
Thanks for your help!
Are they trustworthy?
Handwerklich sehr guter Job aber erst kommt die Metallscheibe und dann die Nylonscheibe auf die Ankerwelle, aber trotzdem sehr gutes Video.
when one brush wears faster than the other could indicate worn bearing
I would say bad spring or it got stuck. Does the long brush look burnt?
The hardest part of all this complicated process- to set the long screws back.
Not if you mark the location on the outside of the hub so you know where they are positioned.
Mine lasted 4 years and it is a crummy design. All they have on the prop shaft is a rubber washer that lasted about as long as a washer in your garden hose. Then it got hard, misshaped and allowed water to leak inside the motor.
Warranty three years, motor lasted four. Duhhhh
Next time lube all your rubber seals with silicone grease for rubber. I gotta can on Amazon with the brush under the lid and it has a thousand and one uses. Even tried it on the drain plug and it made a world of difference.
You're bearing looks like a 608 2rs try to avoid the Chinese bearings they are garbage used nachi temkin if possible