Technically correct vs aesthetically pleasing - the penny drops. I like your explanation of over/under exposure from the perspective of a pleasing picture.
I do this a lot. As Martin says, it massively helps limit the colour palette to something pleasing. Most of the time I can't stand bright green foliage and a deep blue sky with whatever colour - and pattern... - clothes the subject is wearing. Thats's usually a recipe for underwhelming images. When shooting colour you ALWAYS need to consider the colour palette and harmony.
Martin; you're without a doubt one of my most favourite you-tubers. You're actually a photographer that isn't focused on gimmicks. It's so sad that videos like this don't get the views that the new Sigma 24-70 mk ii videos got. Dynamic Range and lens sharpness is just complete faff that have absolutely zero bearing on the beautiful images you can create.
I shoot film, and one of the practices I’ve carried over from that into digital is I always shoot for the shadows. Just a habit I do without thinking about it. This can be a good or a bad thing. It does me well as a gig photographer in most instances. I suppose it also boils down to knowing how well you know your RAW files…. Are they robust enough to push and pull back as needed.
This makes perfect sense to me. Your advice to shoot manual in these instances are great ! I’ve been doing it in aperture priority and often the camera goes haywire and I need to keep adjusting my exposure compensation whereas moving to manual at a certain exposure setting would probably work best indeed. I’m gonna give it a try ! I hadn’t thought about it from the pleasing perspective, I often am tempted to preserve the sky and that’s an excellent question : what for ? What’s the sky gonna bring to this picture ? Definitely makes more sense to me optimise for preserving the skin tones rather than the sky. The “blue is distracting” was such a nugget of wisdom for me ! Thanks love your work Martin ! ❤
Thank you Martin, very helpful video. I have noticed that when family and friends look at my images, they don't say, "Oh, the catch light in that background mirror is blown out!". They look at these asthetics and emotions of the image. So, yes, your explanation of this topic does resonate with me. It was also a really interesting idea of when to use manual and aperture priority modes. Finally, this video really fits in well with your recent video on metering modes. Thank you 🎉🎉🎉
That got me thinking. It sounds in theory like turning the heat of the shower higher because it's already scalding you. But, when you explained why, then it makes sense. Always pays to know a pro. Nice tips mate, thank you.
I'm a woodland/nature photographer (enthusiast only) and I usually try to avoid the sky in my images, however if the composition is worth it and the sky is visible I've embraced slightly overexposing, with decent results.
Thank you. Just went through this yesterday. Long hike in the mountains with over cast and sudden sun. Spent a good long time taking pics and adjusting, thinking this very thing. Should have watched this one when it was released. Cheers Martin! great info!
Nice to see you back Martin, I completely agree, wherever possible I prefer to use natural light. And the results speak for themselves, on some occasions technically correct isn't the correct option.
Just watched this and your last video from a month ago on this subject and I'm now keen to put this into practice. Great explanation. I'll never be a pro photographer now, but love to hear explanations like this. BTW. On the first video of yours that I watched, you said that no one takes photographs any more. At the time I thought that couldn't be true, but you're absolutely right! Started looking around and plenty use their phone but I rarely spotted a camera. Phones are good at snaps but holding a camera makes you think about what you're doing. Excellent channel.
Firstly: thanks for the video, much appreciated as always. Secondly: I don't know whether it's due to TH-cam compression, a change in your mic setup or your recording settings, but your audio suffers from aliasing. Previous videos didn't have this problem, so something has changed.
I don't like using huge dynamic range too much, because often the problem is you lose all your macro contrast and it's all micro contrast.. and it looks wrong and the appeal wears off eventually. Until we get widespread hdr monitor support for images, having extra dynamic range in a photo loses the contrast. Slide film was the GOAT for photos and it had very little dynamic range, maybe 5 to 6 stops, but the contrast was incredible and you needed to know your metering and choose where everything goes. You don't expose for the sky unless those clouds are nessesary for the lanscape. Pure white or purr black helps remove attention from that area, or is negative space for your subject to breathe in.
Exposure is quite simple, if you know what it means. Exposure is the amount of light (strictly its density) at the sensor. People often confuse it with how dark or light the picture looks, but that's a different thing - technically called either 'value' or 'lightness'. The thing that relates the lightness you'll get fo a given exposure is ISO, which is defined by the exposure needed to produce a lightness of 18%. So if you set the exposure by metering an 18% grey object your exposure will be 'correct'. The problem is that mostly people don't carry an 18% grey card. Your camera's metering has no idea what in the scene is an 18% grey. Simple metering works on the idea that the whole scene averages out to 18%. Evaluative metering tries to recognise the type of scene and make a guess at what would be the average would be for that type of scene. So, if you're trying to do better, what you're trying work out is how does the average of your particular scene relate to 18% grey. If you think it's a lot brighter you use less exposure (- on the meter), if it's darker you use more (+ on the meter). Histograms are of no help finding out where 18% is in your scene. They are good for a raw workflow, where what you're trying to do is expose to capture as much information as you can, then set the lightness as you want when you process the image.
I’m re-watching this video and I’m wondering… does switching to spot metering change this and if so, how much? I’m thinking if the camera is metering for a face with a bright sunny backlight, it’ll allow for the background to blow out, right? Or is it going to still balance it? I’m thinking it won’t balance it because I’m telling the camera to only pay attention to the face or whatever I’m spot focused on. But then I’m wondering what additional light the sensor is considering when it’s gauging how much light is reflecting from the face. Or perhaps that’s the whole point of metering modes?!? I suppose I’ll just need to drag my wife outside during a sunny day and find out!
Funny you're so against flash outdoors but I digress. I shoot Manual but I love Aperture Priority and use it quite a lot outdoors in my natural light portrait shoots, especially when the brightness of the sunlight can change fairly drastically, sometimes seconds apart. I once assisted a photographer buddy in a park on a natural light birthday shoot. The sun literally kept increasing and dipping in brightness, sometimes by a couple stops at a time. As he was in Manual mode, he was frustrated that he had to keep adjusting his settings every couple shots. I suggested Aperture Priority and it worked out well. He never ever used it before that because he thought like a lot of photographers - you're not a real photographer if you don't shoot in Manual mode (which is bullsh*t, of course, but he was quite susceptible to what his peers thought and said to him as well). Imagine that. He never once tried Aperture Priority because of what he was told by other photographers. I don't know if he's ever used it since. Even though it worked out well for him in that shoot, in that particular area of the park, I highly doubt he's used it since lol.
I probably overstate it, im not against it, its just people rely on flash without learning how to see light. I often see people accuse people that shoot natural light not know how to use flash but much more common is the opposite, that people that know how to use flash dont know where to start with natural light. Natural light is often better outdoors IF the light is good. I will try to do some videos on flash outdoors as well at some point to provide some balance to this. Most of what I see of flash use outdoors is badly done though. That all sounds much harsher than I actually mean it...
If your blinkers are very slight and you're shooting in RAW remember that the picture on the camera screen is a JPEG, so you'll have a bit more wriggle room vs the histogram.
Martin I just nod my head in agreement now in response to what you’re saying. It’s like a Pavlov’s dog reaction (only I’m nodding not salivating, that would be weird…mind you 🤔).
Recently I was critized because I posted a photo where the sky was overblown. But I overexposed it on purpose, this person did not understand, that the blown out sky was necessary, just like in your examples. To make an HDR out of those scenes would be laughable.
Technically correct vs aesthetically pleasing - the penny drops. I like your explanation of over/under exposure from the perspective of a pleasing picture.
I do this a lot. As Martin says, it massively helps limit the colour palette to something pleasing. Most of the time I can't stand bright green foliage and a deep blue sky with whatever colour - and pattern... - clothes the subject is wearing. Thats's usually a recipe for underwhelming images. When shooting colour you ALWAYS need to consider the colour palette and harmony.
exactly this
Martin; you're without a doubt one of my most favourite you-tubers. You're actually a photographer that isn't focused on gimmicks. It's so sad that videos like this don't get the views that the new Sigma 24-70 mk ii videos got.
Dynamic Range and lens sharpness is just complete faff that have absolutely zero bearing on the beautiful images you can create.
thank you so much, thats great to read.
I shoot film, and one of the practices I’ve carried over from that into digital is I always shoot for the shadows. Just a habit I do without thinking about it. This can be a good or a bad thing. It does me well as a gig photographer in most instances. I suppose it also boils down to knowing how well you know your RAW files…. Are they robust enough to push and pull back as needed.
You’re absolutely right. I’m trying to be too “technically” accurate rather than considering whether or not the subject is correctly exposed. Thanks!
This makes perfect sense to me. Your advice to shoot manual in these instances are great ! I’ve been doing it in aperture priority and often the camera goes haywire and I need to keep adjusting my exposure compensation whereas moving to manual at a certain exposure setting would probably work best indeed. I’m gonna give it a try !
I hadn’t thought about it from the pleasing perspective, I often am tempted to preserve the sky and that’s an excellent question : what for ?
What’s the sky gonna bring to this picture ?
Definitely makes more sense to me optimise for preserving the skin tones rather than the sky. The “blue is distracting” was such a nugget of wisdom for me !
Thanks love your work Martin ! ❤
Thank you!
Thank you Martin, very helpful video. I have noticed that when family and friends look at my images, they don't say, "Oh, the catch light in that background mirror is blown out!". They look at these asthetics and emotions of the image. So, yes, your explanation of this topic does resonate with me. It was also a really interesting idea of when to use manual and aperture priority modes. Finally, this video really fits in well with your recent video on metering modes. Thank you 🎉🎉🎉
Thanks Martin. I’m not a professional (or want to be) in any way but I learn so much from your videos.
This is the clearest lesson I have heard. Thanks...
Thank you Kerry, great to hear that!
That got me thinking. It sounds in theory like turning the heat of the shower higher because it's already scalding you. But, when you explained why, then it makes sense. Always pays to know a pro. Nice tips mate, thank you.
Thanks for these excellent tips Martin, love your no nonsense approach to photography, its true, every day is a school day :-)
thank you!
its art, its right if it looks good to you. Great insight and explanation, thanks for sharing
thank you!
I'm a woodland/nature photographer (enthusiast only) and I usually try to avoid the sky in my images, however if the composition is worth it and the sky is visible I've embraced slightly overexposing, with decent results.
Great talk, it would have been good to see you explain it on cam.
Noted!
Thank you. Just went through this yesterday. Long hike in the mountains with over cast and sudden sun. Spent a good long time taking pics and adjusting, thinking this very thing. Should have watched this one when it was released. Cheers Martin! great info!
welcome! glad it was useful still!
Nice to see you back Martin, I completely agree, wherever possible I prefer to use natural light. And the results speak for themselves, on some occasions technically correct isn't the correct option.
That picture of Lisa with the overexposed background is beautiful!
Thanks!
hope you are getting on with your 5dii still
@@MartinCastein Yes! It is a great camera, that has taken some of my best pictures. Discovered it because of your channel!
This is a wonderful video. It gives context to over and under exposing images to get the image you are after. Thanks again Martin. You are the BEST!
Glad it was helpful!
Just watched this and your last video from a month ago on this subject and I'm now keen to put this into practice. Great explanation.
I'll never be a pro photographer now, but love to hear explanations like this.
BTW. On the first video of yours that I watched, you said that no one takes photographs any more.
At the time I thought that couldn't be true, but you're absolutely right!
Started looking around and plenty use their phone but I rarely spotted a camera. Phones are good at snaps but holding a camera makes you think about what you're doing. Excellent channel.
thanks!
Thats correct on underexposer. On flowers. I like to under expose minus 1 stop to give it a sort of vintagey sad emotion look in camera.
Another great video Martin. Your explanations make sense and this subject becomes clearer.
Lovely input, please check you microfon Martin
i know i know, i heard it after, my mistake with the audio.
Really helpful, thanks
Very informative, Martin! Really like how you put this together. Great insights 🙌
Glad you enjoyed it!
Firstly: thanks for the video, much appreciated as always. Secondly: I don't know whether it's due to TH-cam compression, a change in your mic setup or your recording settings, but your audio suffers from aliasing. Previous videos didn't have this problem, so something has changed.
Thanks I noticed too after I will try to work out what is causing it
Thank you Martin great tip. love the photos you shot. looks awesome.
Thanks Martin!
When I do landscapes with a wide angle lens and there are great differences in contrast I need to compensate indeed. Or do a HDR.
yes often HDR for those situations.
Cracking video.
I don't like using huge dynamic range too much, because often the problem is you lose all your macro contrast and it's all micro contrast.. and it looks wrong and the appeal wears off eventually. Until we get widespread hdr monitor support for images, having extra dynamic range in a photo loses the contrast. Slide film was the GOAT for photos and it had very little dynamic range, maybe 5 to 6 stops, but the contrast was incredible and you needed to know your metering and choose where everything goes. You don't expose for the sky unless those clouds are nessesary for the lanscape. Pure white or purr black helps remove attention from that area, or is negative space for your subject to breathe in.
Exposure is quite simple, if you know what it means. Exposure is the amount of light (strictly its density) at the sensor. People often confuse it with how dark or light the picture looks, but that's a different thing - technically called either 'value' or 'lightness'. The thing that relates the lightness you'll get fo a given exposure is ISO, which is defined by the exposure needed to produce a lightness of 18%. So if you set the exposure by metering an 18% grey object your exposure will be 'correct'. The problem is that mostly people don't carry an 18% grey card. Your camera's metering has no idea what in the scene is an 18% grey. Simple metering works on the idea that the whole scene averages out to 18%. Evaluative metering tries to recognise the type of scene and make a guess at what would be the average would be for that type of scene. So, if you're trying to do better, what you're trying work out is how does the average of your particular scene relate to 18% grey. If you think it's a lot brighter you use less exposure (- on the meter), if it's darker you use more (+ on the meter). Histograms are of no help finding out where 18% is in your scene. They are good for a raw workflow, where what you're trying to do is expose to capture as much information as you can, then set the lightness as you want when you process the image.
I’m re-watching this video and I’m wondering… does switching to spot metering change this and if so, how much? I’m thinking if the camera is metering for a face with a bright sunny backlight, it’ll allow for the background to blow out, right? Or is it going to still balance it? I’m thinking it won’t balance it because I’m telling the camera to only pay attention to the face or whatever I’m spot focused on. But then I’m wondering what additional light the sensor is considering when it’s gauging how much light is reflecting from the face. Or perhaps that’s the whole point of metering modes?!? I suppose I’ll just need to drag my wife outside during a sunny day and find out!
I think you found your answer there buddy hahaha, go on out you go with the camera and wife. 😂
Funny you're so against flash outdoors but I digress. I shoot Manual but I love Aperture Priority and use it quite a lot outdoors in my natural light portrait shoots, especially when the brightness of the sunlight can change fairly drastically, sometimes seconds apart. I once assisted a photographer buddy in a park on a natural light birthday shoot. The sun literally kept increasing and dipping in brightness, sometimes by a couple stops at a time. As he was in Manual mode, he was frustrated that he had to keep adjusting his settings every couple shots. I suggested Aperture Priority and it worked out well. He never ever used it before that because he thought like a lot of photographers - you're not a real photographer if you don't shoot in Manual mode (which is bullsh*t, of course, but he was quite susceptible to what his peers thought and said to him as well). Imagine that. He never once tried Aperture Priority because of what he was told by other photographers. I don't know if he's ever used it since. Even though it worked out well for him in that shoot, in that particular area of the park, I highly doubt he's used it since lol.
I probably overstate it, im not against it, its just people rely on flash without learning how to see light. I often see people accuse people that shoot natural light not know how to use flash but much more common is the opposite, that people that know how to use flash dont know where to start with natural light. Natural light is often better outdoors IF the light is good. I will try to do some videos on flash outdoors as well at some point to provide some balance to this. Most of what I see of flash use outdoors is badly done though. That all sounds much harsher than I actually mean it...
If your blinkers are very slight and you're shooting in RAW remember that the picture on the camera screen is a JPEG, so you'll have a bit more wriggle room vs the histogram.
yeah thats spot on really, if its just about blinking on the screen the RAW will be fine.
Martin I just nod my head in agreement now in response to what you’re saying. It’s like a Pavlov’s dog reaction (only I’m nodding not salivating, that would be weird…mind you 🤔).
hahahah thank you!
Or shoot aperture priority, but use AE lock hold
yes another option, i could never get on with it though, dont know why, id switch to manual personally but if it works for you then great.
Every meter assumes that the subject/scene is middle gray. That is why you need to overexpose the snow and underexpose a pile of coal.
yes thats correct, the ability to understand with your eyes how far the parts of the scene you want to expose for is away from middle grey
Recently I was critized because I posted a photo where the sky was overblown. But I overexposed it on purpose, this person did not understand, that the blown out sky was necessary, just like in your examples. To make an HDR out of those scenes would be laughable.
Yeah I don’t know why people don’t get that, look at what looks best not trying to tick of things in a list because it’s technically possible
When you shoot film.
indeed