What I have found to help with removal and installing the bushings. Put the control arm in a freezer for a few hours or over night. Take it out and apply slight heat to the metal. Be cautious to not apply too much heat. The idea is to shrink the bushing sleeve and expand the control arm. For installing, place the new bushing in the freezer for a few hours. Then apply heat to the control arm. I do this same process for replacing bearing races in wheel hubs.
I just bought 2 new lower control arms. And 2 new wheel bearings. So I will be busy in a few days. Just trying to get a alignment done after a 3 inch OME/Bilstein lift. But keep running into things I need to replace on my 07 FJ. I don’t have to deal with rust so that is nice. Thanks for the video
Thanks for the video man. I’m 99% sure I’m probably experiencing the same driving symptoms on my 2010 Tacoma. I haven’t decided on swapping the whole LCA or just bushings yet but the way you described the driving with the FJ sounds very similar to my Tacoma right now. I’m hoping that’ll fix my driving issues too 👍🏼
Awesome thanks. About to do my LCA’s on my tundra…along with new SPC cam bolts. Went with the Mevotech Supreme with grease-able ball joints. I have a feeling that I will be cutting out a few of my old cam bolts as they may be seized. I like how you reinforce using anti seize. An Achilles heel with many IFS Toyota suspension. Cheers 👍
What tool or method did the shop use to finish pressing in the difficult bushing? Higher capacity press than what you had with the correct size cylinder cup to fit the bushing sleeve? Something else?
Thank You ,,very good idea,, i have an old Harbor freight bearing puller set comes with different sizes and cups ,im going to do mine on a 2004 Sequoia, i did my wheel bearings before , will do the same with the bushing,, and Thanks again , im using OEM 50 bucks for each side front and rear.
If you had various different mounts you could mount it in different places but you would still have to be careful that you dont mount it in a way that will get it hit, fall off, or even melt from something too hot!
@@nomadbound9610 probably need to try another store then. The master kit is a must have, but i would never do what this guy did. Its more cost and time effective to just buy new control arms..
Isnt antiseize not good to use against rubber bushing surfaces? I thought antiseize was for metal to metal, but I see you have it on the inside where the bushings are too
The rubber bushings are within a metal sleeve, so I don't think I had direct antiseize to rubber contact. I think it was only used in metal to metal areas.
I attempted the same on my FJ cruiser, in the end was more economical to buy new control arms. Which came with new bushings and ball joint. My control arms seemed to spread alot from the hyd ram. I have watched other videos and there are too many sketchy methods. Same with the fwd bearings.. most of these parts are throw away.
How are the Moog control arms working out for ya? I'm about to do the bushings on mine, but I'm installing Whiteline bushings because I'd rather not have to do it twice!
@@dirttales usually the arms/bushings are ok, joints tend to suck aftermarket. I'm considering doing this with mine but I want stiffer bushings, unfortunately you have to somehow save the metal sleeves for the energy suspension install, and the super pros are niiicee but the price is ridiculous.
@@dirttales nice! I may do that- found a cheaper deal on the Russian yellow PU superpro knockoffs. I used that "brand" in my sienna before with good luck
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What I have found to help with removal and installing the bushings. Put the control arm in a freezer for a few hours or over night. Take it out and apply slight heat to the metal. Be cautious to not apply too much heat. The idea is to shrink the bushing sleeve and expand the control arm. For installing, place the new bushing in the freezer for a few hours. Then apply heat to the control arm. I do this same process for replacing bearing races in wheel hubs.
I just bought 2 new lower control arms. And 2 new wheel bearings. So I will be busy in a few days. Just trying to get a alignment done after a 3 inch OME/Bilstein lift. But keep running into things I need to replace on my 07 FJ. I don’t have to deal with rust so that is nice. Thanks for the video
Thanks for the video man. I’m 99% sure I’m probably experiencing the same driving symptoms on my 2010 Tacoma. I haven’t decided on swapping the whole LCA or just bushings yet but the way you described the driving with the FJ sounds very similar to my Tacoma right now. I’m hoping that’ll fix my driving issues too 👍🏼
2006 v6 4runner. Hopefully this will fix my issue! Same symptoms as you described!
Awesome thanks. About to do my LCA’s on my tundra…along with new SPC cam bolts. Went with the Mevotech Supreme with grease-able ball joints. I have a feeling that I will be cutting out a few of my old cam bolts as they may be seized. I like how you reinforce using anti seize. An Achilles heel with many IFS Toyota suspension. Cheers 👍
What tool or method did the shop use to finish pressing in the difficult bushing? Higher capacity press than what you had with the correct size cylinder cup to fit the bushing sleeve? Something else?
Did you have trouble installing the passenger side?
Nice job. I have a 2012 and wanted to know where you got that skid plate
ricochetoffroad.com/
Thank You ,,very good idea,, i have an old Harbor freight bearing puller set comes with different sizes and cups ,im going to do mine on a 2004 Sequoia, i did my wheel bearings before , will do the same with the bushing,, and Thanks again , im using OEM 50 bucks for each side front and rear.
Good luck! Wish I had better tools when I did mine! But next time I'm just replacing the whole LCA
this is exactly what I needed to see thank you, how to I safely attach a go pro camera under the car?
If you had various different mounts you could mount it in different places but you would still have to be careful that you dont mount it in a way that will get it hit, fall off, or even melt from something too hot!
The master kit from advance auto parts has the cups you need. I had the same issue with ball joints trying to use oreilly's kit...
Mine didn't even have the master kit. There kit was for little control arms
@@nomadbound9610 probably need to try another store then. The master kit is a must have, but i would never do what this guy did. Its more cost and time effective to just buy new control arms..
Thanks! Have you seen much difference between OEM and aftermarket arm quality?
Not that I've seen in the construction, but I'm sure OEM uses higher quality joints that would last longer and are more durable
Do you remember the torque on the cam bolts?
100 ft. lbs.
Isnt antiseize not good to use against rubber bushing surfaces? I thought antiseize was for metal to metal, but I see you have it on the inside where the bushings are too
The rubber bushings are within a metal sleeve, so I don't think I had direct antiseize to rubber contact. I think it was only used in metal to metal areas.
@@FJX2000_Productions Fair enough man, thanks for the video!
Better off sticking with OEM equipment...bushings last for years and years...
Very true!
That is strange my OEM bushings are close to 11 years old, 170K km on my FJ.
I attempted the same on my FJ cruiser, in the end was more economical to buy new control arms. Which came with new bushings and ball joint. My control arms seemed to spread alot from the hyd ram. I have watched other videos and there are too many sketchy methods. Same with the fwd bearings.. most of these parts are throw away.
So the OEM control arms all came with ball joints and bushings installed?
Hello, what horn is that? Thanks.
Cannot remember! I got it off a truck at a scrap yard but it is a dual horn vs the factory wimpy single horn.
thanks man. ill just get a complete lca
Just use a A bottle jack or a mechanical and pushes it right out
Rubber is not created equal. Genuine Toyota bushings last much longer.
Ever use Taco Tabs? And you aren't running a diff drop?
I’ve wanted taco tabs or something similar but never have gotten them, and no diff drop for me!
How are the Moog control arms working out for ya?
I'm about to do the bushings on mine, but I'm installing Whiteline bushings because I'd rather not have to do it twice!
The Moog arms have been good!
@@FJX2000_Productions good to hear, I installed moog inner/outer tie rods and they're horrible... Definitely only going OEM for those kinds of parts.
@@dirttales usually the arms/bushings are ok, joints tend to suck aftermarket. I'm considering doing this with mine but I want stiffer bushings, unfortunately you have to somehow save the metal sleeves for the energy suspension install, and the super pros are niiicee but the price is ridiculous.
@@accordv6er buy the whiteline bushings. They have a sleeve. I swapped mine in an hour or so.
@@dirttales nice! I may do that- found a cheaper deal on the Russian yellow PU superpro knockoffs. I used that "brand" in my sienna before with good luck
Was it squeaky?
I honestly cannot remember for certain, it may have been clunky
@@FJX2000_Productions okay when I shake my vehicle I have the squeak and feel a clunk. I appreciate this video a lot man!
Beck/Arnley ain't what it used to be. I'd like to know how it works out for you.
Where did u buy the skid plate?
The skid plate is from a company called Ricochet Off-road in Salt Lake City, Utah
Thank you very much and quick reply.
Where is the cave @ .15?
It's an old railroad tunnel in Utah
Where are those control arm skids from?
Yeah, I think I'm going to go with the just replace the entire control arm route. Haha
Totally, so much easier haha
That ‘large one’ is called a socket.
And those ‘big pliers’ are called channel locks.
😂
wait, that play isn't good?
That's some hack work. Use a proper press or bushing installer/remover.
Burning the midnight oil too? Lol