Good video, but the wording implies the only way to get a orange-yellow sun is by using a glass filter. Silver-black polymer and solar lite filters also yield that traditional yellow orange color.
Great video! But of course I have to add something. When photographing a total eclipse the "ring" that holds the filter material is almost as important as you will want to be able to get the filter off and on at the beginning and end of totality very quickly. I've used the film in home made "rings" for two totals (shot with dslrs) and it worked just fine. I store the filters and rings in hard cases and wouldn't think of using anything other than a dust blower to clean them. Again great video!
So I had a glass filter for the eclipse. First time I’ve done any photography with a telescope. I thought the filter would allow a bit more definition but my video and images of the totality were phenomenal while the photos with the filter on were underwhelming. I was able to capture a couple sun spots but they just look like smudges. Even your photos aren’t much better than what I was able to capture. Are there filters that allow more optical clarity?
Thank you for naming and showing the differences. I'm using film filters, mainly on a 90/1250 mm MCT and a 150/1200 mm Newtonian. The results are good, especially with the Newtonian (25 % obstruction).
One of my film filters does yellow and white color, depending on the exposure adjustment. So you can get yellow with film too. I also have a screw in glass but I only use it for my scope because my friend had it cracked or something so I've been paranoid since.
Hi! We recommend either the Spectrum Solar glass filter model: SPR-ST950G Or the Astrozap Baader Solar filter model: AZP-AZ1004-1. You can use either of those models on our website and find the page to place an order! Clear Skies!
I opted for the solar film because I'm going to photograph the eclipse. Since the one in April is a total eclipse I want to be able to take the filter off easily during totality. I need to be able to take it off and on quickly and easily.
You need a minimum of 16.5 stops of ND to safely photograph the sun, and that nd filter also has to block IR and UV light or you risk blasting your sensor with concentrated IR/UV for hours. Film or a filter the only blocks visible light is not safe. For the upcoming solar eclipse, I preferred to get a sheet of white light solar filter film and will be making my own filters for my lens to be safe. Its not that expensive as far as photography accessories are concerned
Hi , I believe I have tried every white light solar filter on the market ''between 1998 and present,2024. What I have found , ...Certian types are a better match for each different type and size of telescope. Anyone with a large scope should absolutely use a mask , I'd say from 7'' and larger. Don't feel like your cheating yourself of your precious aperture. An 8'' sct , with an offset aperture mask of 3.5'' or 4'' ex.. gives incredible results compared to running wide open w a full 8'' filter. Remember - your telescope optical laws and properties- masking down makes your f# go way up , and a good mirror will perform like a great mirror , By sacrificing full aperture and only using a ''slice'' of your primary ..analogy comparison.. a good 1/4 wave primary ''most likely'' will perform like a 1/8 wave . So, If your starting with a mirror that's already inherently , Say , 1/12 wave - It could easily perform at 1/18 or even 1/20th wave error performance . That describes aperture masks in general , Filter material wave front errors in general are so bad that all this gain , Gets knocked way back However , Some glass filter manufacturers , offer, very flat / low P-V errors . The photographic results that I have gotten using 1000 oaks glass type 2+ filters have consistently delivered the sharpest , most detailed , Visual views and images in a single filter that is made for both , imaging and visual use. There are excellent film types that are for imaging only , They have a very bright image , Good for faster exposures , But , many people are using them larger than they should be. 1 or 2 different filters and many aperture masks is what I would recommend . Thank You.
I used a silver-black solar film for the 2024 eclipse and the sharpness was incredibly mediocre. I had a very nice lens and the totality pictures have so much detail but everything from the partial phase was meh
Is it sharp? I’m trying to decide between a Nisi glass filter or a film filter. In 2017 I used a makeshift film filter for $30 and it worked great. It was super fragile and didn’t survive long past its only use. I figured a glass one would be easier to store, but I wouldn’t want to lose detail.
Good video, but the wording implies the only way to get a orange-yellow sun is by using a glass filter. Silver-black polymer and solar lite filters also yield that traditional yellow orange color.
Thanks for the feedback!
Great video!
But of course I have to add something. When photographing a total eclipse the "ring" that holds the filter material is almost as important as you will want to be able to get the filter off and on at the beginning and end of totality very quickly. I've used the film in home made "rings" for two totals (shot with dslrs) and it worked just fine. I store the filters and rings in hard cases and wouldn't think of using anything other than a dust blower to clean them.
Again great video!
So I had a glass filter for the eclipse. First time I’ve done any photography with a telescope. I thought the filter would allow a bit more definition but my video and images of the totality were phenomenal while the photos with the filter on were underwhelming. I was able to capture a couple sun spots but they just look like smudges. Even your photos aren’t much better than what I was able to capture. Are there filters that allow more optical clarity?
Thank you for naming and showing the differences. I'm using film filters, mainly on a 90/1250 mm MCT and a 150/1200 mm Newtonian. The results are good, especially with the Newtonian (25 % obstruction).
One of my film filters does yellow and white color, depending on the exposure adjustment. So you can get yellow with film too. I also have a screw in glass but I only use it for my scope because my friend had it cracked or something so I've been paranoid since.
Bruh.... When you said all the stuff you used @ 3:28 my brain into overload 🤯🤣🤣
Thank you for the information! I bought an Apertura AD8 telescope two years ago, what are the two filters (glass and film) that fits my telescope?
Hi! We recommend either the Spectrum Solar glass filter model: SPR-ST950G Or the Astrozap Baader Solar filter model: AZP-AZ1004-1. You can use either of those models on our website and find the page to place an order!
Clear Skies!
What about celestron solar filters?
I opted for the solar film because I'm going to photograph the eclipse. Since the one in April is a total eclipse I want to be able to take the filter off easily during totality. I need to be able to take it off and on quickly and easily.
why do you want to take it off during totality? curious...
Nice video. Can we use blackout film or multiple layers of 50percent vlt film as a solar filter?
You need a minimum of 16.5 stops of ND to safely photograph the sun, and that nd filter also has to block IR and UV light or you risk blasting your sensor with concentrated IR/UV for hours. Film or a filter the only blocks visible light is not safe.
For the upcoming solar eclipse, I preferred to get a sheet of white light solar filter film and will be making my own filters for my lens to be safe. Its not that expensive as far as photography accessories are concerned
Oh, nice thank you.
thanks..looking forward to the live stream
Then why do I still see yellow/orange when I use the film glasses? Genuine question. Also, thanks this was very helpful
Clear skys!
Thanks for the video 👍.
Hi , I believe I have tried every white light solar filter on the market ''between 1998 and present,2024. What I have found , ...Certian types are a better match for each different type and size of telescope. Anyone with a large scope should absolutely use a mask , I'd say from 7'' and larger. Don't feel like your cheating yourself of your precious aperture. An 8'' sct , with an offset aperture mask of 3.5'' or 4'' ex.. gives incredible results compared to running wide open w a full 8'' filter. Remember - your telescope optical laws and properties- masking down makes your f# go way up , and a good mirror will perform like a great mirror , By sacrificing full aperture and only using a ''slice''
of your primary ..analogy comparison.. a good 1/4 wave primary ''most likely'' will perform like a 1/8 wave . So, If your starting with a mirror that's already inherently , Say , 1/12 wave - It could easily perform at 1/18 or even 1/20th wave error performance . That describes aperture masks in general , Filter material wave front errors in general are so bad that all this gain , Gets knocked way back
However , Some glass filter manufacturers , offer, very flat / low P-V errors . The photographic results that I have gotten using 1000 oaks glass type 2+ filters have consistently delivered the sharpest , most detailed , Visual views and images in a single filter that is made for both , imaging and visual use. There are excellent film types that are for imaging only , They have a very bright image , Good for faster exposures , But , many people are using them larger than they should be. 1 or 2 different filters and many aperture masks is what I would recommend . Thank You.
I used a silver-black solar film for the 2024 eclipse and the sharpness was incredibly mediocre. I had a very nice lens and the totality pictures have so much detail but everything from the partial phase was meh
The glass filter I have doesn't produce a yellow hue, but white.
It's a NiSi solar filter.
Is it sharp? I’m trying to decide between a Nisi glass filter or a film filter. In 2017 I used a makeshift film filter for $30 and it worked great. It was super fragile and didn’t survive long past its only use. I figured a glass one would be easier to store, but I wouldn’t want to lose detail.
You're cool.