Pontiac V8 Rebuild, Part 13: How to Remove or Install a Harmonic Balancer, properly.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ต.ค. 2024
- Subscribe to watch Mike finish this engine build and re-install it into his 1969 Pontiac GTO Restomod, in his home garage! "How to install your harmonic balancer", is Part 13 of this Pontiac 400/455 rebuild. Mike is in the middle of rebuilding his Pontiac 400, which is now a Butler Performance 467, because a Roller Lifter Broke! (see link below). This is a very thorough description of what to do, how to do it, and what to watch out for. Enjoy!
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ARP Harmonic Balancer Bolt, Pontiac Kit 190-2501
Table of Contents:
2:05 Removal
3:48 Installation
Here's the original Hydraulic Roller Lifter Fail Inspection, and process:
• Something is still WRO...
Here's the Official Part 1, where Mike starts the preparation of Engine removal
• Pontiac V8 Camshaft Re...
Enjoy, and ask questions by leaving a comment below... See you on the other side!
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#PontiacV8 #EngineRebuild #HomeMechanic
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All your videos help us shade tree mechanics not screw up our engines. Thank you.
Great to hear! If I can do it... anyone can do it. Have fun!
Much appreciated, and yes I do understand the windage tray is inside the pan. I am not talking about passing the gasket between the pan and the crank shaft like other videos have shown. I am talking about dropping the pan down as far as it will go, Carefully cleaning off all the old gasket material, and slipping the new one piece gasket around the outside base of the pan up to the top. Think of a rubberband slipping over your hand up to your wrist.
Hey Michael, Not sure why my answer didn't post yesterday... but, I hear you now. I guess you could install it up and over like a rubber band. I've never done a Chevy, take a look at my oil pan video here, I'm sure it's similar. th-cam.com/video/o_JVUVPgzao/w-d-xo.htmlsi=W4keLb4yVEEWChkx let us know!
Good video .. very informative..
Thanks Jerry!
Great video
Thanks Mike!
nice tutorial. it is what i needed. Tomorrow is timing cover and perhaps balancer install.
Thanks Brett! You got this!
Brett how is your project coming along?
Nice vid. covering proper utilization of both harmonic tool kits including tips n tricks
Thanks Daniel!
Thanks, This video helped me alot installing that same balancer on my 1978 Trans Am.
Great to hear! Thanks for being a part of the channel!
Great Videos! extremely helpful for me as I rebuild my '64 Pontiac 389. Thanks!
Great to hear! Thanks for watching... don't be shy with any questions... Thanks for the comment!
QUESTION…I can’t find it anywhere on TH-cam. Any thoughts on replacing a leaking oil pan gasket on a big block chevelle with the crossmember in the way from dropping the pan. I’m thinking one piece gasket, placing it on the bottom the pan around the outside to get it in places. An idea any thoughts? Thank you!
Good question, Michael... the reason is, that's not recommended. You "could" do it, but it would require lifting the engine up about 3 to four inches, so when you go to put the gasket in, it clears the the windage tray which protrudes into the oil pan. The best short term solution is to thoroughly clean the seam, as is. Then coat it with RTV. It'll look messy, but should get you by until you pull the engine and do it right. Lastly, make sure your PCV system is in working order... a poor PCV adds crankcase pressure and pushes oil out of areas it shouldn't be. Hope that helps with your decision making process.
@@FastMonty Mike thanks for your response, did you get the new message I sent to you?
@@Michael-Homerepair76 Just did... not sure why my answer didn't post. But, I get you now. sent my oil pan video link too. Have fun!
Thanks Mike!
Welcome Tom!
Can a person put a 389 timing cover and balancer on a 400 without having timing trouble.
In theory, it shouldn't be a problem, as long as the water pump bolt holes are the same. The timing cover has nothing to do with the timing. Think of it as just a cover. Have fun!
Hi ! How come ya didn’t use say fluid dampener harmonic balancer? And what brand did ya use ?
Fluid dampener's are totally necessary... I'm using a DuraBond balancer. Thanks!
Question Monty, I’m going to perform this action with the motor and trans in the car. When torquing the crank bolt will I be able to get the needed 160 ft pounds without the crank actually turning?
Good question.. you still need to lock the flywheel somehow. I've seen tools for that, where you might need someone to hold it, underneath the car.
Question so why do you have an externally balanced harmonic balancer on an engine that you had internally balanced?
Confusing, I know... the harmonic balancer offsets and "cushions" the weight of all those pistons moving up and down. All engines need one. But, depending on the engine, some might be neutrally balanced, and some might be offset. Pontiac Engines are neutrally balanced. So, I had the entire rotating assembly neutrally balanced for piece of mind. Not mandatory, but should be done to protect your investment. Thanks for the comment!
What size is the wrench for the removal tool? And what size washers did you need ? Thanks
Great Question! The removal wrench is a 3/4"... the washers for the install tool are 25mm ID, with around a 43mm OD. Hope that helps!
Very curious to see what type of lifters we are going to use???
I can't remember when I reveal that... it's either this week's upcoming video about measuring push rod length, or definitely the video immediately following that, where I go through the proper way of prepping lifters for install and setting the lash. Gonna have to keep you hanging.. ha, ha... see you soon.
Hi fast Monty!
I am putting my harmonic balancer back on the motor is the car and it’s a four speed as well. Do you need someone to hold the motor while torque it ? What do you recommend?
Thanks!
Yeah, you need to lock the flywheel in place. Like a large screw driver to hold the ring gear from moving, while you torque that crank bolt. (Make sure you're in Neutral, as you could hurt the clutch/transmission. You got this!
@@FastMonty perfect thank you!!
@@lukecogan674 Yup! Good luck!
Slightly concerned.. I went to put mine on and it was a little a snug so I side handed it alittle to line up the key way and wham!! It went all the way to the back with a smidge of side play..
Would you be super worried?and when I mean side play it's probably. 005 to .010 thousands.. I could say I feel vibration but.. probably just focused on finding an issue... bitch'n washer trick!!
Great Question! My guess is that after you torque that sucker on there, it ain't gonna budge. Let me know if I'm losing my mind... ha, ha... yeah, wish I thought of those washers the first time. All about learning... thanks again!
Great video! Thanks!
Thanks Tim!
I went to put my harmonic balancer in and the key lines up and it just bottomed out without ANY tool or force, just slipped in, is that normal? Thank you
Good question... it's not "Normal" But, it does happen. In theory, if it slips at all, (Rotationally on the crank journal) the keyway would catch it, and maintain that position for life, (Cuz the motor only runs in one direction). As long as it was a slip fit, and no radial play, (ie wobble on the crank) you should be good to go. Thanks for the comment!
what is the size of the head bolt on pontiac V8 ? I have a 400 I want to turn over or try in a car that has been sitting 20+ years. Is it 1"?
Hey David, my apologies, I honestly do not know. I now have an ARP 12 point bolt. My guess is it's a 3/4" ??? Let us know, if you figure it out! Thanks, and good luck!
On 1970 Bonneville when accelerating while driving makes a clunking noise when parked and idling or accelerating no noise do you know what causes this
Not quite understanding your question, but sounds like a transmission or torque converter issue. Good luck!
@@FastMonty thanks
Monte gotta ask. What size or part # is the arp fastener
Wow! How did I not mention that? Good question... it's ARP 190-2501 Thanks, and have fun!
@@FastMonty thanks. My engine builder just called me and said he is missing that one bolt hahha. I thought I had it. Pontiac 467 almost complete
Perfect! @@brianreynolds4149
@@FastMonty also did you purchase your oil from butler and if so what do you recommend?
I did buy Butler's recommended oil. I'm currently running Driven HR1 15W-50, but next oil change I'll be going with the synthetic version called GP-1. Oh, use the break in oil for 100 miles. @@brianreynolds4149
Hello Mike. After decreeing the cam, I reset the cam gear dot to 12:00. When I put the harmonic balancer on, TDC dialed in at 4. I did eyeball the dot on the cam gear back to 12:00. Could that make up the variance? Can I just adjust the TDC mark on the Harmonic Balancer to line up with 0 on the timing chain cover or do I need to recalculate something?
Good question... you're talking two different things. The relationship of the cam to the crank, and the relationship of the crank to actual TDC. For your balancer you should verify where the piston is when it's at TDC. You can use the coat hanger trick, or some sort of slim rod to go down the spark plug hole, and rotate the engine until the rod stops, and reverses. That's actual TDC, which should be very close on the timing cover/harmonic balancer. Hope that answers your question.
@@FastMonty I guess where I am confused is when you degreed the cam at 23:40 in part 8 I am assuming the cam gear dot is at 6:00 because you cannot see it. Then after you review/ confirm the measurements at 25:57 the cam gear dot appears at 12:00. On my engine piston #1 is at the top of the block just like when you determined TDC wit the cam. So it should be at the bottom of the stroke when the cam gear is at 12:00?
@@rickfogel257 I know it can be confusing... when the cam gear dot is at the top, the Number 1 is always at TDC on the compression stroke. When the cam gear dot is at 6 o clock, Number 1 is at TDC, but on the Exhaust stroke. Keep in mind the crank gear turns twice as fast as the cam gear. So, one revolution of the crank, means one half revolution of the cam. When setting up the distributor timing, you need to be on TDC of the Compression stroke. (ie the cam gear dot is at the top) Does that help?
@@FastMonty YES! One more question, after you degreed the cam and you moved the dot from 6:00 to 12:00, did you eyeball that TDC? That is how I repositioned it and I could be off a couple of degrees. The piston is at the top again but could explain why I am off a couple degrees on my balancer and timing cover alignment.
@@rickfogel257 Yeah, I eye balled it the first time. The second time I built the engine, I left it at true TDC, and installed the timing chain cover, and balancer just to see... and it was off 1 degree. So, 2 would be expected. Just keep that in the back of your head when you go to install the distributor. Hope that gives you some reassurance. :)
How did u know the crank was died too center before installing balancer !! This is for beginners
Not sure I understand your question... are you asking how did I know that Number 1 was at Top Dead Center, before installing the harmonic balancer? If that's your question, check out Part 8, where I installed the timing chain, etc... at that point you leave the crank at Top Dead Center, until you install the harmonic balancer. Here's the video... th-cam.com/video/jKpk64KWqag/w-d-xo.html If you're replacing a balancer, it doesn't matter. Just make sure that keyway is lined up, and don't force it on. If I'm not answering your question, please rephrase for me. Thanks!
@@FastMonty I believe he is talking about the seal alignment. I've seen it recommended, that the timing cover bolts be left loose until the balancer is installed. Allowing the seal to center itself before tightening the cover.
@@laurel-annsimmons8630 Ohhhhh, I see. There are centering rings in the bottom two holes that align the timing cover to the crank journal. My next time I pull my timing cover, I'll see if there's any movement with those centering rings.. if there is, then I love the idea of waiting to tighten the timing cover until after the balancer is on. Thanks!
Where is the video where he installed the timing chain?
It's the first video in this playlist... have fun! th-cam.com/play/PL0VCtZe2W6eYoWYIVk1Iei_Es2wYThMpi.html
surpising it's a press fit. pontiacs are normally slip fit. it's why the bolt needs 160ft/lbs to hold it on. Becareful using a bolt to hold the crank, you may stress the flywheel threads. when i did mine i installed a flex plate bolt/washer flat to the crankhub. then i had a buddy hold a pri-bar on it and the engine stand support while I tighten the balancer bolt. Great vids!! it's nice to see someone working on a pontiac.
Thanks Jason! Yeah, I'm no expert, but mine was definitely not a slip fit. Wish it was. Ha, ha... thanks for the comment, hope to see more from you.
Most aftermarket performance balancers are pressed it so they don't come loose is easy
Is the stock balancer bolt also 160 flbs as well?
Good Question, Thomas. Yes! By the way, a good reference, for ALL torque specs, is here... butlerperformance.com/p-34888-pontiac-engine-torque-specs.html Have fun!
My harmonic balancer is hitting against the Tin Indian timing chain cover? Ugh
Ohhh nooo!? Wrong dampener? Keep us posted.
Yeah I need a new one anyway
Any recommendations?
@@scottcapers611 I'd hit up Butler Performance's website and see what balancers they're selling. That should help you narrow it down. I'm using the PowerBond performance Street. Have fun!
How do you losen the crank bolt ?
A big ass breaker bar AND some method to hold the flywheel. If it's in the car, I know there are several tricks and/or tools to use to lock it in place. If it's on a engine stand, like mine, I put a bolt in one of the flywheel holes that stopped against the engine stand to prevent rotation. An impact wrench might work too, if it's strong enough... good luck!
@@FastMonty removed the bolt today using the engine stand method thank you !
impact wrench if you have one works too.
I guess I missed removal of the washers, that long bolt was temporary?