Got to agree with him on the ACC's. Definitely my favourite arrow and a great balnce between price and performance. I use them for practice and keep the X10's for comp as where I practice, they have a wooden frame to support the boss. Hit the wood with an X10 and it's only use is as a christmas decoration. The ACC, you can hit the wood and it takes a bit of digging out, but 99/100 it's ready to go again.
hola Steve , me puedes recomendar alguna punta para mis flechas 27 para in door y cual es las ventajas entre una pin point y una point 3D , saludos desde coahuila mexico
1. You're never going to cut all the way to the center unless you have a really short draw. 2. (Arrow companies are going to hate me mentioning this) but you can spin your arrows to see which end is straighter based on how much wobble there is on either end. Cutting on the side that is wobbly is going to make a straighter arrow. If you don't want to mess with this, people always cut from the front. There is a guy called Josh Bowmar and I think his video on how to build a more accurate arrow is really good! Worth the whole video length!
Personally, i'd say if you don't know whether you need the expensive one, you probably need the cheaper one. That aside, the ACC is a better quality arrow i:e it's made with narrower tolerances so there are less variations from one arrow to the next. Both are good arrows, but neither will give you any significant increase to your scores in comparison to good form. It's tempting to go with a 'more pro' arrow and no doubt it will be better, and you may even get a placebo kind of effect whereby the confidence you gain from shooting it, will translate to more confidence in your shooting, and thereby better scores. To go back to my original point though, and to use myself as an example: I can happily hit somewhere around 4 tens at 70 metres at the moment, but 2 of the other arrows will be something like a 6 or 7. No arrow can cure that, it's down to form. So, if you have a similar problem whereby individual arrows can be erratic, it's more important to correct that through form, than a purchase. Pretty much any arrow out there should be able to get you 6 shots consistently in the 8 ring and higher. When you can do that, you can tighten the groups with better arrows. Additionally, and why I practice with ACC's, is that it's a lot cheaper to replace a less expensive arrow, if you know you might have the odd one or two going astray sometimes.
Steve's a great presenter. Clear and concise. Nice one :)
Got to agree with him on the ACC's. Definitely my favourite arrow and a great balnce between price and performance. I use them for practice and keep the X10's for comp as where I practice, they have a wooden frame to support the boss. Hit the wood with an X10 and it's only use is as a christmas decoration. The ACC, you can hit the wood and it takes a bit of digging out, but 99/100 it's ready to go again.
now that the accs are gone is there something else similar at that pricepoint?
hola Steve , me puedes recomendar alguna punta para mis flechas 27 para in door y cual es las ventajas entre una pin point y una point 3D , saludos desde coahuila mexico
nice and clear. thanks bro.
Great video, the explanation was perfect for a novice.
What actual inner diameter of X10 for recurve? Same as A/C/E..?
One question, if we need to cut the arrows shorter, is it better to cut from the end or the tip? If the barrel shape of the arrows counts? Thank you!!
Always leave nok side uncutted
@@EuroShoppHere well, if you're going the bowmar bowhunting way on making an end straight...you could go with either end.
1. You're never going to cut all the way to the center unless you have a really short draw. 2. (Arrow companies are going to hate me mentioning this) but you can spin your arrows to see which end is straighter based on how much wobble there is on either end. Cutting on the side that is wobbly is going to make a straighter arrow. If you don't want to mess with this, people always cut from the front. There is a guy called Josh Bowmar and I think his video on how to build a more accurate arrow is really good! Worth the whole video length!
How about easton AVANCE SPORT?
As an intermediate recurve archer, should I choose carbon one or the acc And why?
Personally, i'd say if you don't know whether you need the expensive one, you probably need the cheaper one.
That aside, the ACC is a better quality arrow i:e it's made with narrower tolerances so there are less variations from one arrow to the next. Both are good arrows, but neither will give you any significant increase to your scores in comparison to good form. It's tempting to go with a 'more pro' arrow and no doubt it will be better, and you may even get a placebo kind of effect whereby the confidence you gain from shooting it, will translate to more confidence in your shooting, and thereby better scores.
To go back to my original point though, and to use myself as an example: I can happily hit somewhere around 4 tens at 70 metres at the moment, but 2 of the other arrows will be something like a 6 or 7. No arrow can cure that, it's down to form. So, if you have a similar problem whereby individual arrows can be erratic, it's more important to correct that through form, than a purchase. Pretty much any arrow out there should be able to get you 6 shots consistently in the 8 ring and higher. When you can do that, you can tighten the groups with better arrows.
Additionally, and why I practice with ACC's, is that it's a lot cheaper to replace a less expensive arrow, if you know you might have the odd one or two going astray sometimes.
No alu arrows? Lol
Good point! Next time. :)
For me is every on arrow good arrow.I have only 4 arrows.😂
i have 3 :D
Far to much background noise.