Yeah to be honest am not to bothered about this lathe, this is a practice lathe I plan on getting a better one, but yeah I should have said on the video, appreciated Mike I’ll pin your comment.
I grind inserts all the time. If you just do the edges and leave a sharp cutting edge, they're great for aluminium. Proper mullahed ones I braze onto a chunk of steel and then grind to whatever shape I want.
Make a plywood cover for the bed and a drop of water will make the diamond wheel last a lot longer. Also when you take it off, get a toothbrush and scrub it under a dripping tap ready for next time dry it and put it near heat to get it bone dry 😊
Darren, as you saw, the radius on the "corners" of your diamond-shaped (& round) inserts improves the surface finish -- the bigger the radius, the easier it is to get good finishes. That's one reason most, if not all, inserts have radii on their corners. Another reason is because carbides are brittle and a radius leaves more material to support the cutting edge than a truly sharp corner can. Look in your Machinist's Handbook (or similar) or online to see the clearance angles that are recommended for the materials you are likely to cut in your workshop. Those angles are usually (I think) given as a range of angles, so as long as you grind angles not too different than the original angles, they ought to be fine for your projects. I'll join with many other commenters here and say that you should do everything you can do avoid breathing the carbide dust. I've seen several of the "big" machining channels rig up a shop vacuum to catch the dust where it's made (so they don't have to wear a mask as long as their setups work!). The vacuum will also minimize the amount of carbide dust that falls on your ways. If you prevent the ways from wearing due to the dust, you'll probably be able to sell the lathe for a higher amount than one that's badly worn -- when you get ready to upgrade to a better lathe. Also, the finer the grit size in the wheel, the better the finish you'll get on the resharpened insert. Of course, if your grit is too fine, it will take a lot longer to actually regrind the inserts! ;)
Thanks for the comment bob, yeah I fully agree, having a radius is better it cuts better as well, it ground to a point only serves one purpose ( getting that sharp 90 ). Also agreed, I should have mentioned it in the video, I just presume most who use carbide know, like any metal dust; you don’t want to breath it in, I had the vacuum sitting next to it whilst wearing my respirator, I always wear it when doing most thing, other than using the mill, my workshop is small so wether is cutting with an angle grinder or using the table saw, it through particles in the air so better safe then sorry. But I appreciate your comment. Definitely worth sharpening worn inserts we it comes to manual work. Thanks brother.
You really should try pronouncing the letter "T" in your speech. That would make your commentary far more interesting and easier for native English speakers to understand. Translated for you: You really should ry pronouncing hee leh-her "_" in your speech. Hae would make your commennary far more inneressing and easier for nayhiv English speakers ooh underssaand. 😉
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I would cover the lathe ways with cloth when doing this sort of thing - grinding and lathe ways do not play well together.
Yeah to be honest am not to bothered about this lathe, this is a practice lathe I plan on getting a better one, but yeah I should have said on the video, appreciated Mike I’ll pin your comment.
@@Darren_Barclay I would also recommend you wearing a dustmask of sorts when grinding carbide, since the dust it produces is toxic.
Investors thrown away hundreds of broken inserts. It never occurred to me to sharpen them. Gonna try it next time. Thanks for the idea.
I grind inserts all the time. If you just do the edges and leave a sharp cutting edge, they're great for aluminium. Proper mullahed ones I braze onto a chunk of steel and then grind to whatever shape I want.
Make a plywood cover for the bed and a drop of water will make the diamond wheel last a lot longer. Also when you take it off, get a toothbrush and scrub it under a dripping tap ready for next time dry it and put it near heat to get it bone dry 😊
Darren, as you saw, the radius on the "corners" of your diamond-shaped (& round) inserts improves the surface finish -- the bigger the radius, the easier it is to get good finishes. That's one reason most, if not all, inserts have radii on their corners. Another reason is because carbides are brittle and a radius leaves more material to support the cutting edge than a truly sharp corner can. Look in your Machinist's Handbook (or similar) or online to see the clearance angles that are recommended for the materials you are likely to cut in your workshop. Those angles are usually (I think) given as a range of angles, so as long as you grind angles not too different than the original angles, they ought to be fine for your projects.
I'll join with many other commenters here and say that you should do everything you can do avoid breathing the carbide dust. I've seen several of the "big" machining channels rig up a shop vacuum to catch the dust where it's made (so they don't have to wear a mask as long as their setups work!). The vacuum will also minimize the amount of carbide dust that falls on your ways. If you prevent the ways from wearing due to the dust, you'll probably be able to sell the lathe for a higher amount than one that's badly worn -- when you get ready to upgrade to a better lathe.
Also, the finer the grit size in the wheel, the better the finish you'll get on the resharpened insert. Of course, if your grit is too fine, it will take a lot longer to actually regrind the inserts! ;)
Thanks for the comment bob, yeah I fully agree, having a radius is better it cuts better as well, it ground to a point only serves one purpose ( getting that sharp 90 ).
Also agreed, I should have mentioned it in the video, I just presume most who use carbide know, like any metal dust; you don’t want to breath it in, I had the vacuum sitting next to it whilst wearing my respirator, I always wear it when doing most thing, other than using the mill, my workshop is small so wether is cutting with an angle grinder or using the table saw, it through particles in the air so better safe then sorry. But I appreciate your comment. Definitely worth sharpening worn inserts we it comes to manual work. Thanks brother.
Thanks for the inspiration
I agree carbide is not great for slideways. Good work.
Darren, looks great, I'm sure your not making to Thous of a mil so for what you need them for they'll work great
This seams like a good idea. Where does the spindle come from for that sharpening cup?
@@job38four10 hey yeah works great, I made it here’s a video of that>>> th-cam.com/video/rxqygLcs4Gg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kJ6oKp-WE8oQLS_Q
inhaling carbide dust is very bad
Don't get the dust in your lungs. Do throw away your old inserts!
You really should try pronouncing the letter "T" in your speech. That would make your commentary far more interesting and easier for native English speakers to understand.
Translated for you:
You really should ry pronouncing hee leh-her "_" in your speech. Hae would make your commennary far more inneressing and easier for nayhiv English speakers ooh underssaand. 😉