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Good video on how not to de-solder properly. Always add flux and low melt solder to each joint before de-soldering, you won’t burn the board or components. Also use copper de-soldering tape after and not the sucker.
@@xzeuii That's not a double negative, it is a single negative. The "not" here modifies "properly" to mean "not properly", so like you said, the sentence effectively says "how to [de-solder] improperly".
@@HenrikMyrhaug I saw not and “de” be used right after each other and lost the ability to understand the sentence. I got what he meant, he just worded it poorly for how I read
Hmmmmm he did use flux though it's all over as he's using suckered to remove solder although that sucker doesn't look very user friendly it's like an old bb gun. Or poor man's paint all gun
So your not able to add some low temp leaded solder to those to remove with the soldering iron? It seems like that method would be a lot easier than wrapping it up with aluminum foil and torching your pcb? I haven't tackled these joysticks yet I'm about to so I figured I'd brush up on methods and I found your video..Thanks!! EDIT..Lol I wrote that question while I was watching..I see you did use LTLS to remove those old welds. You can't do it from the start like that?
This helped me fix the dual analogue sticking out as my kid smashed it (promise it wasn’t me😂) and it was stuck half out of the socket. I just adjusted it and forced it back in and it worked thanks
Pretty comprehensive tutorial right there. So many parts to attend to including desoldering/soldering though. You really got to have the right tools to begin with and lots of patience to do a proper job. Too much for me. I think they made that controller much too complicated to repair or replace parts especially when you got shit potentiometers being used for sensors.
You can technically just pop the Potentiometer off and desolder 3pins instead off the whole analog stick. But for me fps games destroyed my L3 so i needed to do the whole thing.
Awesome video good job. Personally Id use kapton tape to protect the other parts so I can still watch them to make sure I don't accidentally desolder a pin somewhere
I have a question i tried to do it but i cannot make the holes in the metal could u please tell me the name of the tool with wich u make the holes ? Thank u a lot good Video
For anyone wondering if breaks easily because it's a cheap analog stick, buy an orange analog stick called: FU EL7 orange sensor . They are better quality. It's just like the green one but instead of green, it's orange. It's a little more pricey but that's because it's a better replacement than the green one. Ps. Sony made it that way so that when it broke people would just buy another one and they make more money. It's worth it if you fix it yourself just be patient and you'll learn. Good luck my friends
I doing in a cheap way. I bought 20$ soldering kit, 20$ heat gun, 10$ a standard RGEEK analog (i dont know which analog is the best one), and 10$ helping hand. Once my shipment arrives hopefully i could fix it, I have bought 5 remote and 3 of them has already drifting. Im getting tired of buying new remote. Thank you i was looking for any good analog replacement but i have not seen anything of lifespan.
@@boringnolifekillstreak Did you replace them already? Correct with above statement the orange ones are the way to go I bought a set to replace both but instead of changing out the whole modules I did the four sensors because it was alot easier than unsoldering all pins for me they work great!
@@whatfoo661 well i haven't done it.i bought the heat gun and it was very weak, im purchasing the stationary one either on home depot or on Amazon. Im willing to try your idea in the future since i have already purchased it.
@@boringnolifekillstreak If you take apart the controller sometimes you can be lucky as to only have to clean inside the potentiometer track. Debris can get inside and cause the drift issues I'd try that first but since you already purchased the modules might as well put em in right! Hopefully you can get it fixed man👍
I love videos like these, but holy hell do they make it complicated to try and repair these controllers 😅 I definitely see why people just buy new ones, as do I. Amazing work either way!
You should have a voiceover on this or at least captions , explaining some of the steps ! Like I know you were soldering in some parts but I'm a noob and would like to understand the other parts you were doing that seemed important like the cleaning solution . Nice teardown otherwise !
17:44 2K3 (2000) Ohms resistance Potentiometer Original on the left? Is that what all DS5 use? Whats the difference if any to in game play response curve to a 10K (10,000) Ohms resistance pot? Or is 10K just for DS4? Please fill me in lol.
The Dualsense 5 uses the 2.1k ohms by ALPS (green) which looks similar to the one he installed. I've read somewhere that the yellow and green ones aren't interchangeable but when the sellers I've asked all say it's compatible with the Dualsense. I'm curious in finding out the working condition of the controller after this video was posted.
@@EarlDerrickReal Yep a comprehensive study of control feel may need to be done between the pots for response curve & sensitivity documentation for general public understanding, not discounting that the chip may actually automatically detect the pot resistance rating on boot up? (The DS2 seemed to have an auto calibration feature to keep dead spot positions fixed the DS5 don't seem to stretch to that given the need for aftermarket soldered on drift fix, or the dead spot is smaller tighter so if it's digitally off it drifts?) Plus pad to pad control consistency was needed for online competitive play. We may never know by design, such information is valuable lol. If no 2 pads in game setups are the same per change axis pot side that would start to get more confusing than it already is but it would be good to know the working options & parameters we can change. (Preset response curve via component?) Have you seen my control pad modding playlist by chance I focussed on analogue stick form factor & what it effects. I was gona make a new vid on potentiometer selection drift fix best options with soldered secondary trim pots but it would be painfully beyond my full understanding due to pot resistance changes in DS5. The last piece of the puzzle to understand how primary resistance effects play consistency across the response curve control range, then hope the core mechanical pot has a tight no slop resting centre lol. (That is why I avoid even attempting that painfully boring vid like the plague, besides im waiting for components I've ordered 10k & 2k potentiometer sides plus 500k trim pots for deadspot adjustment after) Self education = to a fully qualified know nothing scrapping the barrel for perceived information ;^)
To do this kind of work i recomend using a heat gun don't use a solder and a desolder to remove the joystick solder dots you have a high chance to damage te board happened to me when i was learning how to remove a joystick on a ps4 controller
@@bydiego7192 Thank you very much for your response! I had the same problem with my previous (Xbox) controller. Do you know if it's really necessary to have a heat gun, or could (something like) a hair dryer suffice?
@@MrKippie15 yes in this case you will need a heat gun the price of a good one is around 50 US or a desoldering gun and the cheapest one is around 120 US , hair dryer will only get the plastic stuff in the motherboard melted THIS IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER USE THERMAL TAPE AND ALUMINUM TAPE TO COVER THE REST OF THE MOTHERBOARD SO IT WILL NOT MELT ANY COMPONENTS OR PLASTIC PLUGS IN THE MOTHERBOARD
@@bydiego7192 I thank you kindly for sharing your knowledge with me! This will be of great help to me :) My Dual Sense 5 is still holding up, but I feel like it won't for much longer.
12:07 I am doing exaclty what youre doing w my shit set to literally 450° and it wont budge whatsoever, what am i doing wrong? i have flux on it, ive protected the rest, im doing fast circles across all solder joints.. wtf
I was just doing research because I would like a PS5 controller for PC gaming and I was thinking about the difficulty of a repair on it (typical SONY). This is very very complicated and to be honest I wont take any chances so I will just stick with my XBOX controllers for now as they are so easy to fix (I am 15 and I changed a whole joystick with soldering in about 10 minutes lmao and when comparing it to this, this is tragic)
No. In fact, these yellow analog stick is the reason for the drifting. It's cheapie. Replace them with ALPS's product (mostly green) is the better choice. But double check the resistance of the analog stick's potentiometers before replacing, it should be 2.3kΩ. For DualShock3 and DualShock4, it should be 10.3kΩ. I didn't test if the 10.3kΩ ones works on DualSense.
Guilkit has that available now? Are you sure? Last I checked they said they were intending to make hall effect module replacements for the Edge version controller first but haven't yet done so (as far as I know).
I FIXED PS5 Pad, which had drifting on left analog stick. CLEANING potentiometer didn't help. The problem was faulty potentiometer with WORN out inner path. NO NEED to resolder potentiometer or analog stick. Open potentiometer. I took out the small white part that turns on potentiometer. I used PENCIL to draw on worn out path on potentiometer. Pencil has graphite that allows current to flow. Now my PS5 PAD works.
@@talhasaavedra6391 All the ps5 settings does is it turns invert on if the game your launching has it in its options :( some games like GTA5 , Skyrim call of duty don’t have X-axis invert support so ps5 setting won’t turn it on :(
@@talhasaavedra6391 i guess same reason you wouldn’t want to invert them, it’s the way my brain is wired i guess. For me to play a game with out inverted buttons is like a person who plays normal and asking them to invert, it’s very hard to play. I flat out can’t play games unless their inverted and avoid buying them if the option is not there. Best way I can describe it is if your right handed and your asked to write an essay using your left hand , yea you can do it, but it’s not accurate and it’s frustrating .
@@nobody1322 Well, fair point but if I was you I would just learn how to play normally no matter how hard it is because personally I love videogames and I also have a ps5 so I wouldn't let this problem ruin my experience because I want to enjoy it.
Most aftermarket controllers i got had 2 year warranty at least. Dual Sense has only one ,and they will fail for sure if they only last 400 hours . Why would they make those analogs easy to replace when they can print money. ALPS, the manufacturer of these sticks, made very sturdy Dual Shock 3 sticks but with each new controller they got worse. The plastic moving parts are smaller , the dark coating inside the potentiometer is thinner and the whole stick feels more flexible and less precise. The best one was the DS3 early PS3 controller wich had magnetic analogs. They were the best by far .
@milku Well yeah its a heat gun desolder job when he flips it over the base of the analog stick is melted to the board. Paranoia or damage limitation prudent planning heat disipation or cooking the whole thing like a baked potato? Ide stick to sealed edges kapton tape on that note? lol. Things do have the tendency to melt on hot boards with direct airflow deflection like rubbers & possibly the white ribbon cable connectors in close proximity? theres plenty of scope for failure on full stick removal jobs for the uninitiated. Ive only done it once on a spare DS4 board with solder sucker & iron only. (I failed, slipped & knocked off 4 micro resistors? (pushing the post pins with iron incrementally) I found them then lost 2 never to be seen again & could not get them back on the board when i had them) Caution prep work correct tools is advised lol. Desolder wick is key next time with an extra flux pot. And i even stripped the 3 pin side pots down first to minimize the heat & effort needed for full removal trying to keep it all in working unmelted order. (note you cant force these things they will rip out the copper board contacts if not done right solder wick seems to be a key requirement to draw out the solder with flux) Any community tips ive missed? Other than square to hole removal. Or just replacing the side trim pot full assembly if all else is mechanically sound. Thats non sloppy tight centre rest position & button press. Side pot peel down clean & inspection of contact track should be the start point noting on screen function. No 2 analog sticks are the same resistance & deadspot. There digitally calibrated to the board on manufacture. DS 5 seems to have moved to 2K (2000) 23 code resistance pots? Over traditional 10K (10000) 103 code last number is 0's I know nothing on what that serves to response curve or just throwing a spanner at the repair community for parts selection lol? The digital logged resistance start point, they dont want us to know what we are doing lol.
That’s not powder. It’s rubbing alcohol/isopropyl alcohol. It works great cleaning electronics as long as it is above 60% alcohol. I use it all the time to clean my drones flight controllers, esc, etc…
@@g.period1658 the link I attached is a video on how to fix stick drift you don’t need to buy a new controller and it worked really well for me so just check out that video.
To anyone who is going to watch this...please don't use the same methods to open your controller...he has made multiple mistakes which will damage the controller even further...
I have a simpler solution. Grab your old controller, clean it really well, go to a big box store, buy a new controller, swap your old one in the parking lot, return and get your money back. New controller, 0 all of this..
I hope there's a lawsuit against Sony for these defective controllers... I have 2 that require this process or a new PCB board with thumbsticks.... Which by the way a pcb is just as expensive as a new controller....
I read somewhere a class action lawsuit was being filed but don't know how far that's gone or if it's ever gotten off the ground yet. I really hope they go through with that if not already. These potentiometer controllers are spoiling the console's good name.
Jesus christ. If they were going to use such shitty parts maybe they should have given some thought to making the repair easier. Sony is such a garbage company.
Way too much work for me! My stocks on PlayStation regularly break every 6 months or so. Sony should either make better quality controllers or make it easier to replace the sticks.
It's funny how the comment section in this video has turned into a dual sense repair support group 😂 There needs to be an easier way to change these sticks. Anyone know of aftermarket electromagnetic joysticks for the dual sense? This is SO much work to go through for a repair rather than an upgrade
They've since released the Edge version controller with easy swap out/swap in thumb-stick modules but are very pricey at US$199.99. And they still have the shitty potentiometers. Just that the modules are easier to replace. Unfortunately no electromagnetic/hall effect ones yet.
I can't believe how complicated and time consuming this is. I bought all the stuff to do it now I'm having second thoughts 😄
I think its better to try and fix it than to just a buy a new one cus they are definitely not cheap!
@@captainredbond yeaah I'm gonna end up trying eventually. I already had another one so I'm good for now though atleast lol
@@InFinZible Good luck!
@@captainredbond Thank you!
I'm already on my 3rd controller, god damn these things suck and are weak asf
Good video on how not to de-solder properly. Always add flux and low melt solder to each joint before de-soldering, you won’t burn the board or components. Also use copper de-soldering tape after and not the sucker.
Is that a double negative or am I stupid?
Did you mean “How to de-solder improperly”
@@xzeuii That's not a double negative, it is a single negative. The "not" here modifies "properly" to mean "not properly", so like you said, the sentence effectively says "how to [de-solder] improperly".
@@HenrikMyrhaug I saw not and “de” be used right after each other and lost the ability to understand the sentence. I got what he meant, he just worded it poorly for how I read
You can use either the sucker or the desoldering wick it doesn't matter they do the same thing. I agree the with first statement though
Hmmmmm he did use flux though it's all over as he's using suckered to remove solder although that sucker doesn't look very user friendly it's like an old bb gun. Or poor man's paint all gun
i think this video is for people that are interested in repairing controllers as a service.. but still helpful if you want to learn as a hobby.
homeboys cocaine nail ripped right through that glove
Opened the comments just to find this one 😃😎
Helps get the job done 😂
haha
What temperature needs to put the heat gun to melt the soldering?
So your not able to add some low temp leaded solder to those to remove with the soldering iron? It seems like that method would be a lot easier than wrapping it up with aluminum foil and torching your pcb? I haven't tackled these joysticks yet I'm about to so I figured I'd brush up on methods and I found your video..Thanks!! EDIT..Lol I wrote that question while I was watching..I see you did use LTLS to remove those old welds. You can't do it from the start like that?
This helped me fix the dual analogue sticking out as my kid smashed it (promise it wasn’t me😂) and it was stuck half out of the socket. I just adjusted it and forced it back in and it worked thanks
That just happened to me, it fell and hit the ground at a weird angle, we forced it back in and it doesn’t work.
28:07 you can see the right joystick get stuck lol
normal. mine needed to be pushed into place after snapping the plastic pieces back in.
Never soldered before... Just got a kit, what temp are you setting your soldering iron to?
probably a dumb question but can I do this with a 300W normal heatgun? Or do I need a really strong one made for solder?
Самый подробный разбор. Спасибо!
Pretty comprehensive tutorial right there. So many parts to attend to including desoldering/soldering though. You really got to have the right tools to begin with and lots of patience to do a proper job. Too much for me. I think they made that controller much too complicated to repair or replace parts especially when you got shit potentiometers being used for sensors.
You can technically just pop the Potentiometer off and desolder 3pins instead off the whole analog stick. But for me fps games destroyed my L3 so i needed to do the whole thing.
Ah yes, let me go get my hot air station gawk gawk 3000 and my soldering iron with flux and wick.
Did you expect to fix it with stick glue and scissors?
Moron
Tell me your new to modifying electronics without saying your new to modifying electronics. Lol!
@segmeant yeah no shit anyone watching this is new
Awesome video good job. Personally Id use kapton tape to protect the other parts so I can still watch them to make sure I don't accidentally desolder a pin somewhere
Thank !
great tutorial video, helped me a lot with the repair, thanks, best regards
Mi puoi dire che attrezzatura usi per fare questa riparazione? Spero in una risposta grazie
I noticed the back plastic mold starting to flex inward. I think it may contribute to the sticks drifting with ps5 controllers.
Tnx man, replaced the wipers and there is no drift anymore! Big help!
Hi at 20:05 what type of cleanser you are using? To remove all the burnt areas thanks😊
my guess is mentholated spirits.
I have a question i tried to do it but i cannot make the holes in the metal could u please tell me the name of the tool with wich u make the holes ?
Thank u a lot good Video
Thanks for this Video ... I repair my Controller by my self :))))))
Thank you
And i damaged more than before 🤣😂😂😂🤣
For anyone wondering if breaks easily because it's a cheap analog stick, buy an orange analog stick called: FU EL7 orange sensor . They are better quality. It's just like the green one but instead of green, it's orange. It's a little more pricey but that's because it's a better replacement than the green one. Ps. Sony made it that way so that when it broke people would just buy another one and they make more money. It's worth it if you fix it yourself just be patient and you'll learn. Good luck my friends
I doing in a cheap way. I bought 20$ soldering kit, 20$ heat gun, 10$ a standard RGEEK analog (i dont know which analog is the best one), and 10$ helping hand. Once my shipment arrives hopefully i could fix it, I have bought 5 remote and 3 of them has already drifting. Im getting tired of buying new remote.
Thank you i was looking for any good analog replacement but i have not seen anything of lifespan.
Link?
@@boringnolifekillstreak Did you replace them already? Correct with above statement the orange ones are the way to go I bought a set to replace both but instead of changing out the whole modules I did the four sensors because it was alot easier than unsoldering all pins for me they work great!
@@whatfoo661 well i haven't done it.i bought the heat gun and it was very weak, im purchasing the stationary one either on home depot or on Amazon. Im willing to try your idea in the future since i have already purchased it.
@@boringnolifekillstreak If you take apart the controller sometimes you can be lucky as to only have to clean inside the potentiometer track. Debris can get inside and cause the drift issues I'd try that first but since you already purchased the modules might as well put em in right! Hopefully you can get it fixed man👍
I love videos like these, but holy hell do they make it complicated to try and repair these controllers 😅
I definitely see why people just buy new ones, as do I. Amazing work either way!
True.
You should have a voiceover on this or at least captions , explaining some of the steps !
Like I know you were soldering in some parts but I'm a noob and would like to understand the other parts you were doing that seemed important like the cleaning solution .
Nice teardown otherwise !
The cleaning solution he used was isopropyl alcohol (also known as IPA). He was cleaning the flux off the board. Having leftover
I can’t stand silent videos.
17:44 2K3 (2000) Ohms resistance Potentiometer Original on the left?
Is that what all DS5 use?
Whats the difference if any to in game play response curve to a 10K (10,000) Ohms resistance pot?
Or is 10K just for DS4?
Please fill me in lol.
The Dualsense 5 uses the 2.1k ohms by ALPS (green) which looks similar to the one he installed. I've read somewhere that the yellow and green ones aren't interchangeable but when the sellers I've asked all say it's compatible with the Dualsense. I'm curious in finding out the working condition of the controller after this video was posted.
@@EarlDerrickReal Yep a comprehensive study of control feel may need to be done between the pots for response curve & sensitivity documentation for general public understanding, not discounting that the chip may actually automatically detect the pot resistance rating on boot up?
(The DS2 seemed to have an auto calibration feature to keep dead spot positions fixed the DS5 don't seem to stretch to that given the need for aftermarket soldered on drift fix, or the dead spot is smaller tighter so if it's digitally off it drifts?)
Plus pad to pad control consistency was needed for online competitive play.
We may never know by design, such information is valuable lol.
If no 2 pads in game setups are the same per change axis pot side that would start to get more confusing than it already is but it would be good to know the working options & parameters we can change.
(Preset response curve via component?)
Have you seen my control pad modding playlist by chance I focussed on analogue stick form factor & what it effects.
I was gona make a new vid on potentiometer selection drift fix best options with soldered secondary trim pots but it would be painfully beyond my full understanding due to pot resistance changes in DS5.
The last piece of the puzzle to understand how primary resistance effects play consistency across the response curve control range, then hope the core mechanical pot has a tight no slop resting centre lol.
(That is why I avoid even attempting that painfully boring vid like the plague, besides im waiting for components I've ordered 10k & 2k potentiometer sides plus 500k trim pots for deadspot adjustment after)
Self education = to a fully qualified know nothing scrapping the barrel for perceived information ;^)
Please mention the temperature setting and air flow setting of the hot air soldering
Is that wax he applies ? or vaseline ? do we need to add that ?
Wow... great info but I just buy extra controllers when on sale vs wasting my time on a science project.😂
Tnx man !! ☺now i'm going to fix 2 PS5 controller
What’s the temperature of heat gun?
Thanks for this video! One question: is it also possible to skip the heat gun and go straight to 14:40? I don't have a heat gun, that's why
To do this kind of work i recomend using a heat gun don't use a solder and a desolder to remove the joystick solder dots you have a high chance to damage te board happened to me when i was learning how to remove a joystick on a ps4 controller
@@bydiego7192 Thank you very much for your response! I had the same problem with my previous (Xbox) controller.
Do you know if it's really necessary to have a heat gun, or could (something like) a hair dryer suffice?
@@MrKippie15 yes in this case you will need a heat gun the price of a good one is around 50 US or a desoldering gun and the cheapest one is around 120 US , hair dryer will only get the plastic stuff in the motherboard melted THIS IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER USE THERMAL TAPE AND ALUMINUM TAPE TO COVER THE REST OF THE MOTHERBOARD SO IT WILL NOT MELT ANY COMPONENTS OR PLASTIC PLUGS IN THE MOTHERBOARD
@@MrKippie15 i forgot to say you can use this kind of equipment too is cheaper than a desoldering gun is called a desoldering pump
@@bydiego7192 I thank you kindly for sharing your knowledge with me! This will be of great help to me :)
My Dual Sense 5 is still holding up, but I feel like it won't for much longer.
Thanks for the video, it helped me quite a bit. I would recommend, using aluminum tape, that stuff works like a charm. Cheers.
What did you use to heat up the solder?
A desoldering gun (Google search) is used to heat up the solder in order to remove and a soldering tool of course is used to solder.
Thanks but when I reinstall back cover there is a little space between plastic near L1 R1 on the sides , is this normal ?
what stuff used video to change the joystick what are they called?
What did you use to wrap the board in
aluminum foil
12:07 I am doing exaclty what youre doing w my shit set to literally 450° and it wont budge whatsoever, what am i doing wrong? i have flux on it, ive protected the rest, im doing fast circles across all solder joints.. wtf
I was just doing research because I would like a PS5 controller for PC gaming and I was thinking about the difficulty of a repair on it (typical SONY). This is very very complicated and to be honest I wont take any chances so I will just stick with my XBOX controllers for now as they are so easy to fix (I am 15 and I changed a whole joystick with soldering in about 10 minutes lmao and when comparing it to this, this is tragic)
looks fun i just need what he was putting on the controller before the burning like wax or something
Based on your experience, is the yellow better than the green analog stick?
No.
In fact, these yellow analog stick is the reason for the drifting. It's cheapie. Replace them with ALPS's product (mostly green) is the better choice.
But double check the resistance of the analog stick's potentiometers before replacing, it should be 2.3kΩ. For DualShock3 and DualShock4, it should be 10.3kΩ.
I didn't test if the 10.3kΩ ones works on DualSense.
Bro this is wild and i thought just changing my thumbsticks was extensive , i got that done this im not so sure but i kinda want to try
Kak, adakah modul analog dualsense yang original?
Soalnya punya gw rusak alias nge drift sendiri, tq y
can we use the hall effect sticks (replacement sticks for steam deck) instead? will it work?
That's what I was wondering as well
What was that tub? Gonna try and fix mine soon
Could you possibly use the hall effect sensor joysticks that gulikit sells on the dualsense?
No. You’d need a new PCB.
Guilkit has that available now? Are you sure? Last I checked they said they were intending to make hall effect module replacements for the Edge version controller first but haven't yet done so (as far as I know).
I replaced my analog stick and when I test it, the left stick is permanently moving in the -1,-1 direction. Did I disable it completely by accident?
HI.You skiped the most important part, temperature of heatgun.Thanks a lot for video!
I FIXED PS5 Pad, which had drifting on left analog stick.
CLEANING potentiometer didn't help.
The problem was faulty potentiometer with WORN out inner path.
NO NEED to resolder potentiometer or analog stick.
Open potentiometer.
I took out the small white part that turns on potentiometer.
I used PENCIL to draw on worn out path on potentiometer.
Pencil has graphite that allows current to flow.
Now my PS5 PAD works.
It’s works till now? 😮
@@ihe8o no, it stopped after 2 days. I replaced tha analog stick in the end.
I took that part from old ps4 controler and put it in dual sense.
is there a way to modify the ps5 controller so that the X and Y axis are inverted on the right analog?
Just invert them in the ps5 settings
@@talhasaavedra6391 All the ps5 settings does is it turns invert on if the game your launching has it in its options :( some games like GTA5 , Skyrim call of duty don’t have X-axis invert support so ps5 setting won’t turn it on :(
@@nobody1322 but why would you even want to invert them its good as it is
@@talhasaavedra6391 i guess same reason you wouldn’t want to invert them, it’s the way my brain is wired i guess. For me to play a game with out inverted buttons is like a person who plays normal and asking them to invert, it’s very hard to play. I flat out can’t play games unless their inverted and avoid buying them if the option is not there. Best way I can describe it is if your right handed and your asked to write an essay using your left hand , yea you can do it, but it’s not accurate and it’s frustrating .
@@nobody1322 Well, fair point but if I was you I would just learn how to play normally no matter how hard it is because personally I love videogames and I also have a ps5 so I wouldn't let this problem ruin my experience because I want to enjoy it.
U would think they would make the analog stick a push style connector so at least it’s Easier to replace 1.
Most aftermarket controllers i got had 2 year warranty at least. Dual Sense has only one ,and they will fail for sure if they only last 400 hours . Why would they make those analogs easy to replace when they can print money. ALPS, the manufacturer of these sticks, made very sturdy Dual Shock 3 sticks but with each new controller they got worse. The plastic moving parts are smaller , the dark coating inside the potentiometer is thinner and the whole stick feels more flexible and less precise. The best one was the DS3 early PS3 controller wich had magnetic analogs. They were the best by far .
why the heck did you cover the pcb in foil before desoldering the stick?? never seen anything like that before.
Cheap heat managment i suppose?
Literally no need unless you are paranoid you will damage the circuit board
@milku Well yeah its a heat gun desolder job when he flips it over the base of the analog stick is melted to the board.
Paranoia or damage limitation prudent planning heat disipation or cooking the whole thing like a baked potato?
Ide stick to sealed edges kapton tape on that note? lol.
Things do have the tendency to melt on hot boards with direct airflow deflection like rubbers & possibly the white ribbon cable connectors in close proximity? theres plenty of scope for failure on full stick removal jobs for the uninitiated.
Ive only done it once on a spare DS4 board with solder sucker & iron only.
(I failed, slipped & knocked off 4 micro resistors? (pushing the post pins with iron incrementally) I found them then lost 2 never to be seen again & could not get them back on the board when i had them)
Caution prep work correct tools is advised lol.
Desolder wick is key next time with an extra flux pot.
And i even stripped the 3 pin side pots down first to minimize the heat & effort needed for full removal trying to keep it all in working unmelted order.
(note you cant force these things they will rip out the copper board contacts if not done right solder wick seems to be a key requirement to draw out the solder with flux)
Any community tips ive missed?
Other than square to hole removal.
Or just replacing the side trim pot full assembly if all else is mechanically sound.
Thats non sloppy tight centre rest position & button press.
Side pot peel down clean & inspection of contact track should be the start point noting on screen function.
No 2 analog sticks are the same resistance & deadspot.
There digitally calibrated to the board on manufacture.
DS 5 seems to have moved to 2K (2000) 23 code resistance pots? Over traditional 10K (10000) 103 code last number is 0's
I know nothing on what that serves to response curve or just throwing a spanner at the repair community for parts selection lol?
The digital logged resistance start point, they dont want us to know what we are doing lol.
Ive seen the plasic battery and ribbon cable connectors melt before so
Is that tin foil you wrap around the board
Bravo ma ti consiglio di non usare il succhia stagno ma la trecciola in rame fai prima e il lavoro viene piu pulito 👍
I only cleaned the potentiometer with alcone cotton swab but the problem is always there, what should I do?
4:29 careful y’all cuz I think I just broke my shi lmao
U saved me
Do you have a Repair Shop that I can send my Controllers to??
No, idont have shop
19:55 - what is this powder? Thank you for your answer.
That’s not powder. It’s rubbing alcohol/isopropyl alcohol. It works great cleaning electronics as long as it is above 60% alcohol. I use it all the time to clean my drones flight controllers, esc, etc…
@@aiRxShop Thought it was mentholated spirits.
@@davidtsmith33 haha metholated*…helps decrease any latency. 😂
I broke my dualsense to try repair it and now you’ll buy me another one
3:51 boy what tf! Do I do that!? Yoooo WTF yooo lmao
No cap I’ll send you mine and if your able to fix the L1 you can keep it
2:04 R1 button ✈️😂
Are the analog ps4 and ps5 the same size?
yup
Oh my god , is so difficult for me . I rather buy new one . I don’t have tools to fix like this guy . Anyway , Nice video
Ikr, the soldering part is pretty meh 😐
Stick drift isn't that bad anyways 😢
yes it is
U cant play competetive retard
After watching this I knw I’m incapable of changing it myself lol
I would not blame someone saying F it Im gonna buy another one. This is complicated for most people.
You can say that again.
Does PS4 anolog stick work with PS5?
Nope. I checked.
The Joysticks is the same for ps4?
Yes
You don’t need the heat tape it’s just to be safe
plot twist: new one drift right out of the box
You didnt show us where u went to your neighbors house and retrieved the R1 button at 2:04
hahahahahaa
jesus christ, im just going to buy a new one. its not worth the hassle
There’s an easier way
th-cam.com/video/djIvRoclr_E/w-d-xo.html This worked on all of my controllers
@@Jferraro24 are you saying buying a new controller is easier? Or are you saying there’s another way to fix it? If so please elaborate.
@@g.period1658 the link I attached is a video on how to fix stick drift you don’t need to buy a new controller and it worked really well for me so just check out that video.
@@Jferraro24 which link?
What screwdriver
Triple 0 or 000
Why you didn't show is it working or not
Good vid but you need to cut them nails 😂😂😂
To anyone who is going to watch this...please don't use the same methods to open your controller...he has made multiple mistakes which will damage the controller even further...
My reaction as I thought I could do this to not buy a new controller 😶😏🤔😱😫
I'd like to see it not drift after that on gamepad tester, These components are cheap and already drift most of the time before being installed lol
Well…… that convinced me not to bother.
replacing a garbage ALPS analog stick with another garbage ALPS analog stick. Lots of work and stick drift guaranteed to return in 3 months.
Circuit ranger
_finishes video_
_leaves and buys another controller instead_
Why no commentary?
why are u wrapping it in tin foil ?
and what if you dont have all that shit? you just buy a new one?
What a ball ache
See. If a woman can do it you can too. She must love her nails.. if I had nails like that I ain't needing no tools.
They like sea shells.
Yeah I’ll just buy another controller 🤔
Yeah I'll just buy a new controller 🤣
I have a simpler solution.
Grab your old controller, clean it really well, go to a big box store, buy a new controller, swap your old one in the parking lot, return and get your money back. New controller, 0 all of this..
I hope there's a lawsuit against Sony for these defective controllers... I have 2 that require this process or a new PCB board with thumbsticks.... Which by the way a pcb is just as expensive as a new controller....
I read somewhere a class action lawsuit was being filed but don't know how far that's gone or if it's ever gotten off the ground yet. I really hope they go through with that if not already. These potentiometer controllers are spoiling the console's good name.
6:57 naw tf
Cuz what is that that Ain’t in the tool kit
Finding new vid cuz hell naw
Fk it there all the same I just won’t remove it
9:14 bye
Jesus christ. If they were going to use such shitty parts maybe they should have given some thought to making the repair easier. Sony is such a garbage company.
Way too much work for me! My stocks on PlayStation regularly break every 6 months or so. Sony should either make better quality controllers or make it easier to replace the sticks.
It's funny how the comment section in this video has turned into a dual sense repair support group 😂
There needs to be an easier way to change these sticks. Anyone know of aftermarket electromagnetic joysticks for the dual sense? This is SO much work to go through for a repair rather than an upgrade
They've since released the Edge version controller with easy swap out/swap in thumb-stick modules but are very pricey at US$199.99. And they still have the shitty potentiometers. Just that the modules are easier to replace. Unfortunately no electromagnetic/hall effect ones yet.
Better buy new one
WTF??? Just to change a stick?
Buy new Controller
Ajajajajajauuaasiaiaia