These should have a thermal paste between them and the distributor to let the heat pass out of the module. That's the white stuff. It's NOT silicone or gasket material. It's not for moisture, it's for thermal conduction. Most new units should come with a little bit of paste but maybe eBay specials do not. You can Google thermal paste to find some. If you don't use Thermal paste it will overheat and fail sooner than otherwise. I did some research and here are the part numbers that seem to match this module: NM412 6H1000 LX539 The Standard Motor Products LX539 seems to be the cheapest name brand option.
Really appreciate you putting out these videos. Not a lot of content out there for them, and I’m sure these will be invaluable to me as a new Acty owner!
My 95 Honda just started missing, rough running! Positive it's the ECM Module so I bought the correct one at O Reillys for $82.00 Now I need the correct White Thermal Paste between the module and distributor to transfer the heat from the engine build up to the module through the White thermal paste to the cooler distributor, or the new module will fail do to heat! Thanks for the video, I would never gave known had it not been for your video; thanks again! 95 Honda acty 4x4 sdx driver!
Hi Marco, great video! My Acty is doing a very similar thing. It stutters like crazy at anything over half throttle and refuses to accelerate. It doesn’t cut out like yours does though. I’ve had the plugs and plug leads changed too. I’m just waiting for the 2 solenoids to arrive from Japan. Don’t make the same mistake as I have and use Japan Surface mail as it takes forever. I’ve just ordered another set to be delivered by UPS as I couldn’t wait upto 5 months for it to arrive (they didn’t tell me that until I’d got to the end of the transaction ~ they’ve now updated their website to warn people). I’ve found someone on UK eBay who is selling an ignition module which is new old stock for an old Honda for £13 (about 16 dollars). So I’m gonna swap that out too. Thanks for the information... you’re the man!
def ur fuel solenoid. try that first because they are also cheaper are more prone to going out. i would honestly get both solenoids for the carb to be safe
@@Th3man12 yep, I've got both solenoids now, they arrived 2 days ago. Gonna call a classic car garage tomorrow as it's hard finding someone who can fit the parts but also tune them afterwards to make sure everything is running fine (gas analyser etc.). Thanks for replying! So looking forward to having the Acty back on the road again. Cheers!
I was having same issue just done distribution and doing solenoids now but I might do the ignition module now as I reckon that could be my issue Thanks for the video
The white stuff you are referring to is thermal paste used to dissipate heat from the igniter module since you used dielectric on the 1st one I'd probably assume that's why it failed as soon as it did.
Thermal heat soak. Electronics that age and start failing generate heat. Heat will kill the electronics. It may run when cool, but long enough at high enough RPM's, the ECU can heat up and start cutting out until it cools off. Thermal heat grease or paste helps transfer heat from the unit to the metal. Good idea to apply new grease when replacing it. Ford, Chrysler, GM, they all had similar issues with their ECU of that time period.
Loving the video's Marco! Would you mind sending me the file for the rotor spacer? Several guys in out Acty group want to get a set made to do the same swap.
Honda ign modules have always been like this. If you ever dont have spark, its that. Also if you take the dist. cap off and see red dust your sub assembly bearing is shot. just replace it. no need to buy a whole new dizzy. unless you let the bearing go so long you crash into the VR sensor.
These should have a thermal paste between them and the distributor to let the heat pass out of the module. That's the white stuff. It's NOT silicone or gasket material. It's not for moisture, it's for thermal conduction. Most new units should come with a little bit of paste but maybe eBay specials do not. You can Google thermal paste to find some.
If you don't use Thermal paste it will overheat and fail sooner than otherwise.
I did some research and here are the part numbers that seem to match this module:
NM412
6H1000
LX539
The Standard Motor Products LX539 seems to be the cheapest name brand option.
Thanks for sharing
Really appreciate you putting out these videos. Not a lot of content out there for them, and I’m sure these will be invaluable to me as a new Acty owner!
I appreciate that! thank you
My 95 Honda just started missing, rough running! Positive it's the ECM Module so I bought the correct one at O Reillys for $82.00 Now I need the correct White Thermal Paste between the module and distributor to transfer the heat from the engine build up to the module through the White thermal paste to the cooler distributor, or the new module will fail do to heat! Thanks for the video, I would never gave known had it not been for your video; thanks again! 95 Honda acty 4x4 sdx driver!
Hi Marco, great video! My Acty is doing a very similar thing. It stutters like crazy at anything over half throttle and refuses to accelerate. It doesn’t cut out like yours does though. I’ve had the plugs and plug leads changed too. I’m just waiting for the 2 solenoids to arrive from Japan. Don’t make the same mistake as I have and use Japan Surface mail as it takes forever. I’ve just ordered another set to be delivered by UPS as I couldn’t wait upto 5 months for it to arrive (they didn’t tell me that until I’d got to the end of the transaction ~ they’ve now updated their website to warn people). I’ve found someone on UK eBay who is selling an ignition module which is new old stock for an old Honda for £13 (about 16 dollars). So I’m gonna swap that out too. Thanks for the information... you’re the man!
Good luck hope you get the issue resolved…thanks for watching
def ur fuel solenoid. try that first because they are also cheaper are more prone to going out. i would honestly get both solenoids for the carb to be safe
@@Th3man12 yep, I've got both solenoids now, they arrived 2 days ago. Gonna call a classic car garage tomorrow as it's hard finding someone who can fit the parts but also tune them afterwards to make sure everything is running fine (gas analyser etc.). Thanks for replying! So looking forward to having the Acty back on the road again. Cheers!
choke is stuck
I was having same issue just done distribution and doing solenoids now but I might do the ignition module now as I reckon that could be my issue Thanks for the video
Glad it helped
The white stuff you are referring to is thermal paste used to dissipate heat from the igniter module since you used dielectric on the 1st one I'd probably assume that's why it failed as soon as it did.
Good to know…thanks
Thank you for this video! I was wondering if you could tell me the part number to the module that worked for you
Just go on eBay and search for a 1985 Honda Prelude ignition module...good luck
Thermal heat soak. Electronics that age and start failing generate heat. Heat will kill the electronics. It may run when cool, but long enough at high enough RPM's, the ECU can heat up and start cutting out until it cools off.
Thermal heat grease or paste helps transfer heat from the unit to the metal. Good idea to apply new grease when replacing it.
Ford, Chrysler, GM, they all had similar issues with their ECU of that time period.
Thanks for the Info!
Loving the video's Marco! Would you mind sending me the file for the rotor spacer? Several guys in out Acty group want to get a set made to do the same swap.
Yes, email me please. Cardaytoday@gmail.com
@@MarcoCerqueira sent
How's it holding up? Still have the issue?
So far so good.
I am confused. Did you fix it with the $28 part or with the second one you bought?
Valid question. I believe that the $28 part that I got was faulty even though it was new in the box. The second one I bought was fine.
Honda ign modules have always been like this. If you ever dont have spark, its that. Also if you take the dist. cap off and see red dust your sub assembly bearing is shot. just replace it. no need to buy a whole new dizzy. unless you let the bearing go so long you crash into the VR sensor.