I love your take on the laser cutter. You did something new bold unique and different. I like how you shared wiring and light burn. I use the same board with fluid NC. You may want to store everything on an sd card. A few times I just powered off everything and the config file get lost. On my mac I like lightburn for modeling and designing. For quick cuts i like laser grbl its simple and easy to connect.
Thank you very much! And thanks for the heads up regarding the config. I export the lightburn settings and store them on the git repo just in case I need to install on a different machine I didn't know that the settings could be lost that way. Yeah lightburn is great, I'll have a look into grbl laser too. Cheers
Hey! I’m working with the MKS DLC32 V2.1 controller, and I was wondering what driver you used with it? Also, could you help me with setting up the TMC2209 driver for 1/32 microstepping? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Hey, awesome project! What did you you use to put underneath the honeycomb bed to catch the laser? I'm building a co2 laser too and I have everything except that part.
Thank you! It's a piece of plywood with 10x10 aluminum angles screwed around the edges to make a tray. It slides along 2 pieces of fixed alu angle that are below the honeycomb. The CAD diagram has this part if you need a reference. The outside acrylic panel the tray slides out from is held in with wing nuts, but if I was to do it again I would have used a couple of hinges for easier access. All the best with your build!
@kpmaking9647 Thanks! Did you make it in a tray so you could periodically replace the plywood or is it to catch the pieces that fall through? And is the laser so far out of focus by the time it hits the plywood that it won't cut through it?
@@Dex2R7 It's to catch the pieces falling through and also to stop them sliding off when I take the tray out. Yes exactly it's out of focus, I have had a direct hit on the tray a bunch of times and it hasn't cut through, it didn't even burn the paint off. I bought a thin piece of aluminum sheet the same size as the tray as I thought exactly what you did but I haven't used it
All of the extrusion pieces are filed at the ends where they join to other extrusion pieces. At the back of the machine there's a ring terminal connector bolted into the extrusion with a ground wire. The other end is connected to the ground part of the power distribution terminal block bar inside the machine. I went around all parts of the frame and checked for continuity between the frame and ground. Cheers
soooo...like the build....watching many builds on youtube....taking a bit here and there to make my build....the 2 motors driving 1 axis....is a bit of a sticking point here, so thought since its been 3 months since this vid was made, need your opinion.....here goes.....saw many try the 2 motors controlling 1 axis....obviously 3 drivers for x, y (2 motors reversed wiring), and z for bed...hope this is what i'm assuming.....furtherfabrications scrapped this idea and went for a single dual shaft instead of the 2 motor deal......he said original design was losing steps and the motors were getting out of sync....he said stability just wasnt there....(bind or EMI...dunno)....saw another mount single shaft motor at bottom then used a pulley system to attach to a single log rod which was supported to run the Y axis, thinking it would be beneficial keeping the motor away from the tube to reduce emi.....an honest opinion on any problem with your build concerning this problem would be appreciated
Your assumptions are correct. I did a bit of back and forth on this, my rationale for choosing 2 Y motors was the following : 1) My primary use case is cutting where the speeds are significantly slower than engraving so the simplicity of 2 motors outweighed the potential benefit of a single drive motor with shaft. Since the build, however, I've been asked to do quite a bit of engraving and haven't had any issues with losing steps, binding etc 2) The 2 motors are being driven off a single driver so it's essentially getting identical step signals.I believe furtherfabrication used an all in one controller unit, the closed, turnkey nature would mean it would be harder to diagnose the root cause of issues with this type of board (IMHO). My advice is decide what the primary function of your machine would be and make design choices based off that. I haven't had any issues with the 2 motors and this seems like a common configuration, maybe it's not super optimal but it has totally met my needs. All the best with your build ! Hope you share when it's done!
nice build I rebuilt my Chinese 40 watt unit and it works great, but looking to build a bigger one. Not necessarily more power (but why not?) but main focus is bigger burn table.
Decent design gantry might be a bit heavy with the rail or is the vibration not an issue at high speed? You also might want to reconsider the high voltage side of things, enclose the PSU, laser tube and the wiring in metal and ground that. Couple of kilo volts can easily kill you if it arcs the wrong direction.
Vibrations have not been an issue from what I have observed, 250 mm/s on engraving. Thanks for your suggestion! The aluminum frame was filed to take off some paint at the joints and grounded (verified with a multimeter around the frame) PSU and tube can't be accessed without removing the panels. Appreciate your input, cheers
X and Y can have different teeth as long as the steps per mm are set correctly in the machines definitions file. The Y axis has two motors driving it and it can't have different numbers of teeth as it moves a single beam. The pulley in the vid was probably a temp until the correct one arrived as the X and Y axis both have the same steps per mm and it's been tested to be dimensional accurate. Nicely spotted ! Cheers
@@kpmaking9647 makes sense...thanx....still a bit skeptical on the 2 motor on 1 driver deal...i have it like that now and still building...will be testing soon....i have also (just in case) mounted a dual shaft motor on the front of the machine opposite the tube (maybe aleviating interference).....anyway, just need longer belts for the axisi's....should be no big deal....
The following defines in the machine definitions file should work- "CONTROL_FEED_HOLD_PIN GPIO_NUM_34" "CONTROL_CYCLE_START_PIN IIC_SCL". where IIC_SCL is defined as GPIO_NUM_4.Restart stays the same. This mapping leaves the screen pins free to connect to the touch screen. The physical pin mappings diagram is on the repo- DLC32/mks_dlc32_v21_003.jpg
The clamp is not printed, that's a metal GT2 belt clamp you can get from amazon, ebay etc. If you mean the idler pulley holder for the belt, that file is in the project repo
Love how you just casually make a darn nice piece of furniture for a laser
Thank you!
HOLY SHIT. THIS CHANNEL NEEDS TO BLOW UP
Thank you very much!
I love your take on the laser cutter. You did something new bold unique and different. I like how you shared wiring and light burn. I use the same board with fluid NC. You may want to store everything on an sd card. A few times I just powered off everything and the config file get lost. On my mac I like lightburn for modeling and designing. For quick cuts i like laser grbl its simple and easy to connect.
Thank you very much! And thanks for the heads up regarding the config. I export the lightburn settings and store them on the git repo just in case I need to install on a different machine I didn't know that the settings could be lost that way. Yeah lightburn is great, I'll have a look into grbl laser too. Cheers
Does FluidNC works with lightburn?
@@herberthenri FluidNC is the next iteration of grbl ESP32 so it should work fine with the grbl version of lightburn
Hey! I’m working with the MKS DLC32 V2.1 controller, and I was wondering what driver you used with it? Also, could you help me with setting up the TMC2209 driver for 1/32 microstepping? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Hey, awesome project! What did you you use to put underneath the honeycomb bed to catch the laser? I'm building a co2 laser too and I have everything except that part.
Thank you! It's a piece of plywood with 10x10 aluminum angles screwed around the edges to make a tray. It slides along 2 pieces of fixed alu angle that are below the honeycomb. The CAD diagram has this part if you need a reference. The outside acrylic panel the tray slides out from is held in with wing nuts, but if I was to do it again I would have used a couple of hinges for easier access. All the best with your build!
@kpmaking9647 Thanks! Did you make it in a tray so you could periodically replace the plywood or is it to catch the pieces that fall through? And is the laser so far out of focus by the time it hits the plywood that it won't cut through it?
@@Dex2R7 It's to catch the pieces falling through and also to stop them sliding off when I take the tray out. Yes exactly it's out of focus, I have had a direct hit on the tray a bunch of times and it hasn't cut through, it didn't even burn the paint off. I bought a thin piece of aluminum sheet the same size as the tray as I thought exactly what you did but I haven't used it
Did you ground the chassis? How did you do it?
All of the extrusion pieces are filed at the ends where they join to other extrusion pieces. At the back of the machine there's a ring terminal connector bolted into the extrusion with a ground wire. The other end is connected to the ground part of the power distribution terminal block bar inside the machine. I went around all parts of the frame and checked for continuity between the frame and ground. Cheers
Very beautiful
Thank you!
soooo...like the build....watching many builds on youtube....taking a bit here and there to make my build....the 2 motors driving 1 axis....is a bit of a sticking point here, so thought since its been 3 months since this vid was made, need your opinion.....here goes.....saw many try the 2 motors controlling 1 axis....obviously 3 drivers for x, y (2 motors reversed wiring), and z for bed...hope this is what i'm assuming.....furtherfabrications scrapped this idea and went for a single dual shaft instead of the 2 motor deal......he said original design was losing steps and the motors were getting out of sync....he said stability just wasnt there....(bind or EMI...dunno)....saw another mount single shaft motor at bottom then used a pulley system to attach to a single log rod which was supported to run the Y axis, thinking it would be beneficial keeping the motor away from the tube to reduce emi.....an honest opinion on any problem with your build concerning this problem would be appreciated
Your assumptions are correct. I did a bit of back and forth on this, my rationale for choosing 2 Y motors was the following : 1) My primary use case is cutting where the speeds are significantly slower than engraving so the simplicity of 2 motors outweighed the potential benefit of a single drive motor with shaft. Since the build, however, I've been asked to do quite a bit of engraving and haven't had any issues with losing steps, binding etc 2) The 2 motors are being driven off a single driver so it's essentially getting identical step signals.I believe furtherfabrication used an all in one controller unit, the closed, turnkey nature would mean it would be harder to diagnose the root cause of issues with this type of board (IMHO). My advice is decide what the primary function of your machine would be and make design choices based off that. I haven't had any issues with the 2 motors and this seems like a common configuration, maybe it's not super optimal but it has totally met my needs. All the best with your build ! Hope you share when it's done!
Great job!!!
Thank you!
nice build I rebuilt my Chinese 40 watt unit and it works great, but looking to build a bigger one. Not necessarily more power (but why not?) but main focus is bigger burn table.
Thank you! I started off with a K40 too, the extra power & space has certainly been nice. All the best if you decide to go ahead
Decent design gantry might be a bit heavy with the rail or is the vibration not an issue at high speed?
You also might want to reconsider the high voltage side of things, enclose the PSU, laser tube and the wiring in metal and ground that.
Couple of kilo volts can easily kill you if it arcs the wrong direction.
Vibrations have not been an issue from what I have observed, 250 mm/s on engraving. Thanks for your suggestion! The aluminum frame was filed to take off some paint at the joints and grounded (verified with a multimeter around the frame) PSU and tube can't be accessed without removing the panels. Appreciate your input, cheers
how do you sync the 2 motors...X one is nema 17-20 tooth, Y one is nema 23-32 tooth? is it a software configuration like you did for the 100 mm test?
X and Y can have different teeth as long as the steps per mm are set correctly in the machines definitions file. The Y axis has two motors driving it and it can't have different numbers of teeth as it moves a single beam. The pulley in the vid was probably a temp until the correct one arrived as the X and Y axis both have the same steps per mm and it's been tested to be dimensional accurate. Nicely spotted ! Cheers
@@kpmaking9647 makes sense...thanx....still a bit skeptical on the 2 motor on 1 driver deal...i have it like that now and still building...will be testing soon....i have also (just in case) mounted a dual shaft motor on the front of the machine opposite the tube (maybe aleviating interference).....anyway, just need longer belts for the axisi's....should be no big deal....
@@glennmartonic6376 Awesome you have given yourself options should you need to pivot from your current design. Good luck with the build!
at least you provide details of what materials are needed to make the co2 laser machine?!
What stepper motor you use?
Nema 17 or 23
X/Y use Nema 17. Z uses Nema 23
Can u show engaraving at high speed (400-500mm/s). I had a lot of problems whit that controler when engraving.
I engrave at 250mm/s @20% power- No issues at that speed. But you have to consider the acceleration values to compare our speeds directly. Cheers
Can you also add wiring for the DLC32 to the laser PSU if one wants to use the touch screen connections? Thanks
The following defines in the machine definitions file should work- "CONTROL_FEED_HOLD_PIN GPIO_NUM_34" "CONTROL_CYCLE_START_PIN IIC_SCL". where IIC_SCL is defined as GPIO_NUM_4.Restart stays the same. This mapping leaves the screen pins free to connect to the touch screen. The physical pin mappings diagram is on the repo- DLC32/mks_dlc32_v21_003.jpg
Thank you
Hi there. May i ask how much this money you invested in this project? Thanks in Regard
Hi, between £1300-1500
nice,
do you have a parts list / instructions?
Not at the moment unfortunately all the info I have is on the repo for the project (which has the CAD, wiring and firmware). I may add this later.
Hi sir do you have you prepared the parts list and the building instructions.
Do you have your repo link please
github.com/kpatel122/Sparks-Laser-Cutter
Can you gave me file belt clamp ?
The clamp is not printed, that's a metal GT2 belt clamp you can get from amazon, ebay etc. If you mean the idler pulley holder for the belt, that file is in the project repo
@@kpmaking9647 oh thanks so much. I found that
Wiring diagram please 🙏
Build Docs->Laser Wiring.jpg from the project repo (link in the description)
@@kpmaking9647 thx brother