Wow, I've only just found this. Thank you. I have been using OHP film to produce orotones and using gold leaf on the back but I have experience using zebra plates in my 4x5 camera so I will give this a go with a digital negative. Thank you for sharing the technique!
Excellent video! Thanks. Could I ask the formula for the Polaroid b72? All I can find is solid pieces that need to be liquefied. Also, do you use Museum Glass? Thanks.
All you need is 'Pure' Acetone (from the diy store), don't use nail varnish it contains water. Use 5g of Paraloid B72 crystals with 100ml acetone. Mix this solution with 3-5 g of powder to make your coating for the plate. You can buy premixed 5% Paraloid solution on Ebay. You only need plain 2mm float glass from the framers or glass store, but you will need to sensitise them with silver gelatine emulsion. I use Zebra plates which come pre-coated.
You need to mix 5g of Paraloid B-72 for every 100ml of pure acetone. Store in small brown bottles available from Amazon. You can get pure acetone from any hardware store but failing that, use nail varnish remover from the chemist! Thanks for your support.
It's a bit hit and miss! It gets better with time and experience, however the chemistry is rated at ISO1 so meter for ISO3 and extrapolate for 2 stops less, then make an adjustment of less half a stop if there is more UV in the scene (sunny) or plus half a stop (cloudy). This is a good starting point - then adjust from there. Good Luck.
You can print from any negative in an enlarger without having to change the bulb, but you will have to do your own exposure tests and it will not give you the best tonal range. In order to print these plates with the best tonal range, you will need to produce a contact negative! You can find some useful download material on my website (Interesting Stuff Page).
@@TomLeePhoto Tom I'm going to buy a printer to make my digital negatives, I'm looking at an Epson ET8500, it's a dye based printer do you see any issues with that? Also for orotones what type of negative should I be shooting for? Flat, contrasty? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks
@@skytrooper506 Have a look at this and download the bit on digital negatives and glass plate positives www.tomleephoto.com/interesting-stuff. It's not the printer that makes a great negative - it's how it's printed. Best of luck.
Great Tom thanks for sharing. Keep them coming :)
Just wanted to thank you again.
I made my first Orotone today using your method. It was beautiful, I just couldn't stop looking at it.
Well done Francis - May the 4th be with you! Best wishes for other successes.
Fantastic, I love the process. Great video buddy, keep them coming!
Cheers buddy - will call next week.
Interesting - very interesting. Thank you.
Wow, I've only just found this. Thank you. I have been using OHP film to produce orotones and using gold leaf on the back but I have experience using zebra plates in my 4x5 camera so I will give this a go with a digital negative. Thank you for sharing the technique!
Lovely Work Tom. 👍🏼👍🏼
Great video! Thank you. 👍👍👍
Lovely Tom. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Excellent video! Thanks. Could I ask the formula for the Polaroid b72? All I can find is solid pieces that need to be liquefied. Also, do you use Museum Glass? Thanks.
All you need is 'Pure' Acetone (from the diy store), don't use nail varnish it contains water. Use 5g of Paraloid B72 crystals with 100ml acetone. Mix this solution with 3-5 g of powder to make your coating for the plate. You can buy premixed 5% Paraloid solution on Ebay. You only need plain 2mm float glass from the framers or glass store, but you will need to sensitise them with silver gelatine emulsion. I use Zebra plates which come pre-coated.
@@TomLeePhoto thanks Tom! I can't wait to try it.
Excellent Tom, you do need a steady hand, and the gold finish on the image perfect.
Just Great!
Thank you,
What did you dissolve the Paraloid B-72 in?
You need to mix 5g of Paraloid B-72 for every 100ml of pure acetone. Store in small brown bottles available from Amazon. You can get pure acetone from any hardware store but failing that, use nail varnish remover from the chemist! Thanks for your support.
Now I understand.
How did you set your exposure time?
It's a bit hit and miss! It gets better with time and experience, however the chemistry is rated at ISO1 so meter for ISO3 and extrapolate for 2 stops less, then make an adjustment of less half a stop if there is more UV in the scene (sunny) or plus half a stop (cloudy). This is a good starting point - then adjust from there. Good Luck.
Tom I don't have large negatives to contact print, could I use my enlarger? Perhaps change the bulb to a daylight bulb?
You can print from any negative in an enlarger without having to change the bulb, but you will have to do your own exposure tests and it will not give you the best tonal range. In order to print these plates with the best tonal range, you will need to produce a contact negative! You can find some useful download material on my website (Interesting Stuff Page).
@@TomLeePhoto Tom I'm going to buy a printer to make my digital negatives, I'm looking at an Epson ET8500, it's a dye based printer do you see any issues with that? Also for orotones what type of negative should I be shooting for? Flat, contrasty? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks
@@skytrooper506 Have a look at this and download the bit on digital negatives and glass plate positives www.tomleephoto.com/interesting-stuff. It's not the printer that makes a great negative - it's how it's printed. Best of luck.