Thank you so much for all your content. I am planning to start construction on a retirement house in April 2024. I can absolutely say that I would not have attempted this project as a near solo build without the excellent info that you and the whole Build Network bring.
We went with Zip-R12 here in zone 6a based on videos like this. It just seems so much easier then installing OSB or plywood sheathing, installing window bucks, installing XPS or mineral wool over the sheathing, installing furring strips over the exterior insulation, then installing a WRB and hope everything is sealed properly.
I have been a building contractor in NH for 35 years. My concern with rigid foam exterior insulation, is the potential for a dew point forming on the inside of the foam surface. I have seen the damage caused by this several times first hand in remodeling homes that were built with a "flash and batt" system. This was a common system in the early days of spray foam. We found you need a minimum of 2" of foam in NH climate to prevent this. I see houses built with 1" Zip sheathing in my area (zone 6). I believe there will be major problems with these homes long term.
Condensation will only occur on a surface, and not within the insulation. I would suggest that the interior be foamed to provide a continuity and adhearance insulation. The areas where the studs connect would not be much of a concern to me.
The gaps in the insulation will also allow some air to get to the back of the zip tape. It puts the insulation on the wrong side of the water/air barrier. The Sega Majrex is critical in this wall.
Hi Steve, I'm building a simple long house with a 14 on 12 vaulted ceiling, (no attic) in zone 3. Why couldn't I use ZipR on the roof with the insulation out, then a peel & stick WRB, batten rainscreen, then metal roof. It would allow a warm roof in fewer steps. Inward zip would be air barrier only. Code seems to call for ext ins OR vapor diffusion port with vapor permeable insulation against the deck from inside. I could add vapor diffusion port for added security. So I suppose my question would be this: would inverted zip face be a negative in this situation since its 12-16 perms? Aside from not taping it from the coated side.
I'm getting ready to build and have looked at several wall systems and one that you rarely see is staggered 2 x 4 studs 16"oc on 2 x 6 plates. This breaks the thermal bridging and allows 2" of foam in the exterior cavities. It seems like a very strong wall and you can use 7/16 zip instead of zip-r. I don't see a downside to this other than additional framing cost. I appreciate any comments or additional information. Steve, how about a youtube video regarding this technique?
I am a 45 year veteran of the Design/Build industry. The "drying thru" component always seems to be batted around, and to some extent, played down. Many years ago, I covered my framing package with Tyvek as it was supposed to rain that evening. Came back the next day and the lumber was soaked. That made me start to question the housewrap concept. Additionally, back in 1978, I built a home in Jacksonville, FL and I put a .06 mil visqueen barrier on the interior before the drywall application. It created a moisture barrier at the back of the sheetrock, which became a nightmare! Since then, I have been very shy of creating condensation planes, withing assemblies. Styrofoam is water impermiable, as it is closed cell foam with air trapped inside it. There is no, "drying thru" it, so the condensating surface is where it meets the stud! Why would you do this? In my zone 2 climate, I tend to lien toward an assembly that will "dry thru" and create a drainage plain, behind the finished cladding. As to your question about an offset layout of 2x4 studs, on a 2x6 plate, basically, a stud every 12" would be very strong and as you indicated, would break the consductivity of the exterior studs. As to the application of outsulation, If I were going to use this assembly, I would lien toward a RockWool batt, which is vapor permeable. Now, I respect all these men highly! But one of the issues with these types of videos is, climate zones, or the changing performance needs related to them. I do know this, It's vital to get this right, the make up of a wall assembly that is, up front! If you get it wrong, it would cost 10's of thousands of dollars in repairs, liability issues and possible litigation. None of us want those problems. Good luck!
I would suggest the bottom plate be a 2x8 that extends 1.75" beyond the foundation. Set the 2x6 on top. Then run your Skil saw along the edge of the 2x6 and rip off 1/4". This saves ripping a 2x2 block and then trying to nail a 2x2 without splitting is risky. The shoe on a Skil type saw is set for 1.5".
Just out of curiosity, why wouldn't you use ICF? Seems as the cost of Zip R, would push the cost to be comparable to ICF. Not to mention the added structual integrity of ICF, and the thermal mass
I absolutely love all your deep dives into the details I'm sure many builders would forgo. I have a 1926 home without any stud insulation. We are in the process of re-siding the exterior. I'm debating whether or not to blow in insulation into the wall cavities. Even though I'm putting a rainscreen on the outside, I'm thinking now that i will still have condensation from the inside. Thank you for all your awesome videos
Great content, thank you Steven. One question. Would this wall assembly work in cold Canadian climate? My concern that ZipR wouldn't allow drying outside since PolyISO is not vapor permeable. Thanks
Question: For cold climates, doesn't it make more sense to use comfortboard and zip non-r than r sheathing? I assume if the air barrier is on the outside of the wall assembly, warm air will leak to the cold air barrier on the outside and condense on the cold air barrier sheathing. If the insulation is on the outside of the air barrier instead of the inside of the air barrier like in this example, the air barrier will be warmer and less likely to condense?
Steve, out of curiosity, have you ever seen a ZIP like product that uses plywood instead of OSB? Where I live in climate zone 6 we get a lot of freeze/thaw cycles in the winter, and in my experience OSB tends not to last as long as plywood in that weather if it gets even slightly damp.
living in zone 4 I do wonder just how much advantage one would have going with r9 sheathing. I can imagine that one could accomplish the same end by using a double stud wall. plus it would dry to the outside. Assuming that a more permiable insulation like rockwool would do a better job as it does allow for drying.
Always love to see vets getting a helping hand… as often as possible. Another really helpful video Steve. Re: Vapor Retarder- You’d limit that to climate zones 6&7, I’d guess?
question: does the shear strength decrease, as the distance between the sheathing and stud is increases, with the added insulation thickness? normally, without insulation, with only wood sheathing and stud, the wall's shear strength is provided by, the fraction between sheathing and stud, from the clamping force of the screw, plus the screw's shear strength. with insulation on the sheathing, assuming the fraction between the insulation and stud is zero. i imagine there exists a gap between the sheathing and the stud. so , is the wall's shear strength, equal to, only the screw's shear strength? as fraction between sheathing and stud equal zero. with more and more insulation, the gap between the sheathing and the stud increases. the screw's shear strength would decrease, as the bending moment of the screw increases with in the gap. more insulation is wonderful, but is there a cost to the shear value of the wall? if so, how much insulation is too much? thank you very much videos.
Excellent question I’m not saying you were dodges this on their website but the details is buried in the fine print. You really are starting to literally hang out on a limb when you’re hanging 2 inches off of your wall and you’ve got a heavy sheathing. Yes Bell is fine but hardy boardveneer stone stucco, even even if that stuff can get heavy so
Look, you were a great company they make excellent products. They provide great back up, but there is a really stark vulnerability of their system in that it is vapor and permeable especially when it is taped properly your locking any moisture that’s in there inside the wall and you better have a drainage plain behind it, that also ventilates, and that vitiates any external installation you have, because you’re not gonna reach the full Arbor think about it if you have cold air circulating behind the zip wall fromthe ground to the soffit it’s taking away a large amount of your our factor gain for the 2 inch insulation and then of course it all gets back to cost-effective. The zip are is not cheap.
More great content! ... AND closing humor ... lol. Big red to bed, ... You're a poet and you don't know it, but to look at your feet, their Longfellows. Hahaha.
Steve, I don’t get how taping the poly iso portion seems of the zip R raises its temperature I get it will reduce air and have moisture migration. However it will also preclude the warm interior environment from warming up the cheating surface challenger logic here.
I have had question about zip R in regions that get cold I.e. water vapor moves from inside the house to outside. With the insulation prior to the WRB, condensation can happen on the backside of board versus insulation outboard of the WRB which allows condensation of vapor outboard of the WRB. I can get my head around ZIP R in regions where vapor moving outside is minimal but in regions where there are many months of heating season, the condensation is on the back side of the ZIP, I.e. man made wood which is not treated like the outboard face. Yes you can reduce it but if the customer wants 40% humidity in the winter so they don’t itch, that moisture is going to follow the heat and move towards the outside.
@@lrc87290 you have to chose proper thickness of Zip insulation to keep dew point in it on coldest day . After considering all such details SIP can be cheaper
Would it be okay to put foam on the studs and then zip sheeting over? Same concept just not laminated together. See any issues with doing it that way? Reason I ask is zip is about $30 a sheet and 1.5 polyiso is $30 and zip-r 1.5 was quoted to me at $120 a sheet.
ISO or EPS is better on the outside of the sheathing for shear strength as the sheathing is against the studs. The downside is another WRB is 'required' on the outside of the continuous insulation. That being said. Still far less expensive to post EPS or ISO and cover vs. ZipR but more labor. Atlas PolyISO or EPS is my cost basis for the comparison as it is Hubers ZipR supplier. We are currently building a Brutalist Home in zone 5 with 2 framed rooftop structures that are clad in 4" EPS and covered directly in microcement (to match the rest of the structure) as you would do EIFS. It's a crazy efficent system.
@@Veritasi which is best at managing dewpoint? With zip-r the humidity inside passes through the wall cavity and hits Zip-R's ISO as opposed to passing through the OSB/Zip then hitting the ISO on the outside of the sheathing. I'm trying to understand which is best?
@@mdk777s6 Honestly, neither makes a large difference. The amount of moisture moving through the drywall can't really be mitigated passively. My goal has always been one way movement. I'm not in agreement with "a house that breathes" approach. I'd rather seal it up and actively control the air moisture. A well insulated and sealed wall will have very little 'dewpoint' layer. That being said, EPS is the easiest to 'dry' without ever have a mold concern.
Would it be the same as placing a larger (2x8) treated plate off the top of foundation wall vs a 2x2 added to bottom of exterior wall at 2x6 top plate of foundation wall?
@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 been wondering why you use Zip R, Matt R used atlas on his house & why Daniel is using ROCKWOOL Comfortboard 80. (All for exterior insulation). Would be great to see a video & understand when to use which. I get all these brands are all sponsors, but from a science education why/when use each? Thanks for what you’re doing!!
How does the nailing pattern of ZIP-R affect the heat transfer? Obviously the nails are tiny but they're still highly conductive and ZIP-R requires a lot more of them. With all the extra nails required, doesn't that negate some of the benefits of the thermal break? I'm assuming this would be a small effect but curious if this has been studied.
No effect. No more nails needed for ZIP R than with regular sheathing. I am structural and mechanical engineer and I call out the nailing pattern depending upon shear load required. I do engineering in the hurricane high wind areas of the country.
Steve, You hear about spray insulation and termite or ant infiltration of it, which can be a disaster, what about the polyisocyanate layer on Zip? Is there the same concern? Does Huber say that’s bug proof?
If you look at the section diagram (and most other SBA videos) the bottom sill plate is extended the depth of the ZipR or whatever external insulation is so as long as you do due diligence in your sealing, the bottom of the insulation is capped with solid wood. If you are in a place where the ant/termite problem is excessive , you can always use mineral wool panels instead.
@@JoeBieniecki The 2x8 bottom sill is 1.75" greater than the 2x6. Easy job for the framer to run his saw around and clip off the extra 1/4". Much the same as he does for cutting door openings in plates.
@@JoeBieniecki You would want them to be the same on the inside of the house, at least I would. This means the 2x8 sticks out 1.75" more. Easy to trim the 1/4" since the shoe on most Skil type saws is set for 1.5". This allows the R6 sheet of ZIP R to rest on the protruding, and trimmed, 2x8. Then Hardi or whatever goes smoothly over that.
The zip sheathing is on the outside of the house. Pictures are nailed to drywall. The mail hit the studs or the insulation. No mail is going to go through 6 inches of insulation and another two inches of zip insulation, penetrating the green zip sheathing
Very good video. I would add the limitation that this video is for very cold climates. We would never put the sealed up vapor barrier on the inside of a wall in cooling dominated climates. And certainly much, much colder climates might need more outer insulation, and less in the wall cavity.
IDK, sounds like a lot of expense to save a couple grand every 5 years. You put that expense into your mortgage, it just got even more expensive. And you're talking about expensive plans, more expensive installation crews. I guess this is cool for rich people building expensive houses. Not so much for average people.
Thank you so much for all your content. I am planning to start construction on a retirement house in April 2024. I can absolutely say that I would not have attempted this project as a near solo build without the excellent info that you and the whole Build Network bring.
We went with Zip-R12 here in zone 6a based on videos like this. It just seems so much easier then installing OSB or plywood sheathing, installing window bucks, installing XPS or mineral wool over the sheathing, installing furring strips over the exterior insulation, then installing a WRB and hope everything is sealed properly.
I have been a building contractor in NH for 35 years. My concern with rigid foam exterior insulation, is the potential for a dew point forming on the inside of the foam surface. I have seen the damage caused by this several times first hand in remodeling homes that were built with a "flash and batt" system. This was a common system in the early days of spray foam. We found you need a minimum of 2" of foam in NH climate to prevent this. I see houses built with 1" Zip sheathing in my area (zone 6). I believe there will be major problems with these homes long term.
Condensation will only occur on a surface, and not within the insulation. I would suggest that the interior be foamed to provide a continuity and adhearance insulation. The areas where the studs connect would not be much of a concern to me.
I agree, but most construction I see with R5 zip they are insulating the wall cavity with batts, usually fiberglass.@@coasttal123
If it can't dry it's gonna die
The gaps in the insulation will also allow some air to get to the back of the zip tape. It puts the insulation on the wrong side of the water/air barrier. The Sega Majrex is critical in this wall.
Word
Big Fan, SB keep up the great work! Thank you!
Hi Steve, I'm building a simple long house with a 14 on 12 vaulted ceiling, (no attic) in zone 3. Why couldn't I use ZipR on the roof with the insulation out, then a peel & stick WRB, batten rainscreen, then metal roof. It would allow a warm roof in fewer steps. Inward zip would be air barrier only. Code seems to call for ext ins OR vapor diffusion port with vapor permeable insulation against the deck from inside. I could add vapor diffusion port for added security. So I suppose my question would be this: would inverted zip face be a negative in this situation since its 12-16 perms? Aside from not taping it from the coated side.
I'm getting ready to build and have looked at several wall systems and one that you rarely see is staggered 2 x 4 studs 16"oc on 2 x 6 plates. This breaks the thermal bridging and allows 2" of foam in the exterior cavities. It seems like a very strong wall and you can use 7/16 zip instead of zip-r. I don't see a downside to this other than additional framing cost. I appreciate any comments or additional information. Steve, how about a youtube video regarding this technique?
I am a 45 year veteran of the Design/Build industry. The "drying thru" component always seems to be batted around, and to some extent, played down. Many years ago, I covered my framing package with Tyvek as it was supposed to rain that evening. Came back the next day and the lumber was soaked. That made me start to question the housewrap concept. Additionally, back in 1978, I built a home in Jacksonville, FL and I put a .06 mil visqueen barrier on the interior before the drywall application. It created a moisture barrier at the back of the sheetrock, which became a nightmare! Since then, I have been very shy of creating condensation planes, withing assemblies. Styrofoam is water impermiable, as it is closed cell foam with air trapped inside it. There is no, "drying thru" it, so the condensating surface is where it meets the stud! Why would you do this? In my zone 2 climate, I tend to lien toward an assembly that will "dry thru" and create a drainage plain, behind the finished cladding.
As to your question about an offset layout of 2x4 studs, on a 2x6 plate, basically, a stud every 12" would be very strong and as you indicated, would break the consductivity of the exterior studs. As to the application of outsulation, If I were going to use this assembly, I would lien toward a RockWool batt, which is vapor permeable.
Now, I respect all these men highly! But one of the issues with these types of videos is, climate zones, or the changing performance needs related to them. I do know this, It's vital to get this right, the make up of a wall assembly that is, up front! If you get it wrong, it would cost 10's of thousands of dollars in repairs, liability issues and possible litigation. None of us want those problems. Good luck!
I would suggest the bottom plate be a 2x8 that extends 1.75" beyond the foundation. Set the 2x6 on top. Then run your Skil saw along the edge of the 2x6 and rip off 1/4". This saves ripping a 2x2 block and then trying to nail a 2x2 without splitting is risky. The shoe on a Skil type saw is set for 1.5".
Just out of curiosity, why wouldn't you use ICF? Seems as the cost of Zip R, would push the cost to be comparable to ICF. Not to mention the added structual integrity of ICF, and the thermal mass
I absolutely love all your deep dives into the details I'm sure many builders would forgo.
I have a 1926 home without any stud insulation. We are in the process of re-siding the exterior. I'm debating whether or not to blow in insulation into the wall cavities. Even though I'm putting a rainscreen on the outside, I'm thinking now that i will still have condensation from the inside. Thank you for all your awesome videos
Suggest you talk with a mechanical engineer. He should be able to tell you whether or not you will have condensation and where.
So informative
Great content, thank you Steven. One question. Would this wall assembly work in cold Canadian climate? My concern that ZipR wouldn't allow drying outside since PolyISO is not vapor permeable. Thanks
Question: For cold climates, doesn't it make more sense to use comfortboard and zip non-r than r sheathing? I assume if the air barrier is on the outside of the wall assembly, warm air will leak to the cold air barrier on the outside and condense on the cold air barrier sheathing. If the insulation is on the outside of the air barrier instead of the inside of the air barrier like in this example, the air barrier will be warmer and less likely to condense?
Steve, out of curiosity, have you ever seen a ZIP like product that uses plywood instead of OSB? Where I live in climate zone 6 we get a lot of freeze/thaw cycles in the winter, and in my experience OSB tends not to last as long as plywood in that weather if it gets even slightly damp.
living in zone 4 I do wonder just how much advantage one would have going with r9 sheathing. I can imagine that one could accomplish the same end by using a double stud wall. plus it would dry to the outside. Assuming that a more permiable insulation like rockwool would do a better job as it does allow for drying.
Always love to see vets getting a helping hand… as often as possible.
Another really helpful video Steve.
Re: Vapor Retarder-
You’d limit that to climate zones 6&7, I’d guess?
X-actly what I am following Steve on... Going to extend the "Continuity" of the WRB with Zip, So Zip-it Man, Loved#35 N Subscribed !!!
question:
does the shear strength decrease,
as the distance between the sheathing and stud is increases,
with the added insulation thickness?
normally,
without insulation,
with only wood sheathing and stud,
the wall's shear strength is provided by,
the fraction between sheathing and stud,
from the clamping force of the screw,
plus the screw's shear strength.
with insulation on the sheathing,
assuming the fraction between the insulation and stud is zero.
i imagine there exists a gap between the sheathing and the stud.
so ,
is the wall's shear strength,
equal to,
only the screw's shear strength?
as fraction between sheathing and stud equal zero.
with more and more insulation,
the gap between the sheathing and the stud increases.
the screw's shear strength would decrease,
as the bending moment of the screw increases with in the gap.
more insulation is wonderful,
but is there a cost to the shear value of the wall?
if so, how much insulation is too much?
thank you very much videos.
Excellent question I’m not saying you were dodges this on their website but the details is buried in the fine print. You really are starting to literally hang out on a limb when you’re hanging 2 inches off of your wall and you’ve got a heavy sheathing. Yes Bell is fine but hardy boardveneer stone stucco, even even if that stuff can get heavy so
Look, you were a great company they make excellent products. They provide great back up, but there is a really stark vulnerability of their system in that it is vapor and permeable especially when it is taped properly your locking any moisture that’s in there inside the wall and you better have a drainage plain behind it, that also ventilates, and that vitiates any external installation you have, because you’re not gonna reach the full Arbor think about it if you have cold air circulating behind the zip wall fromthe ground to the soffit it’s taking away a large amount of your our factor gain for the 2 inch insulation and then of course it all gets back to cost-effective. The zip are is not cheap.
Could you add reflectix behind the drywall and get the same benefits? Blocking interior heat from coming in the wall instead of a moisture barrier.
More great content!
... AND closing humor ... lol.
Big red to bed, ...
You're a poet and you don't know it, but to look at your feet, their Longfellows. Hahaha.
Steve, I don’t get how taping the poly iso portion seems of the zip R raises its temperature I get it will reduce air and have moisture migration. However it will also preclude the warm interior environment from warming up the cheating surface challenger logic here.
I have had question about zip R in regions that get cold I.e. water vapor moves from inside the house to outside. With the insulation prior to the WRB, condensation can happen on the backside of board versus insulation outboard of the WRB which allows condensation of vapor outboard of the WRB. I can get my head around ZIP R in regions where vapor moving outside is minimal but in regions where there are many months of heating season, the condensation is on the back side of the ZIP, I.e. man made wood which is not treated like the outboard face. Yes you can reduce it but if the customer wants 40% humidity in the winter so they don’t itch, that moisture is going to follow the heat and move towards the outside.
That Zip is not for the cold climate. Those who would try to convince you counter wise , simply want to sell you that stuff or services
It's warm so it's not going to condense.
@@andreycham4797of course it's for cold climates.
@@lrc87290 you have to chose proper thickness of Zip insulation to keep dew point in it on coldest day . After considering all such details SIP can be cheaper
What do you do about the windows with the added thickness of the R sheathing? Gets one with a 9” jamb?
Would it be okay to put foam on the studs and then zip sheeting over? Same concept just not laminated together. See any issues with doing it that way? Reason I ask is zip is about $30 a sheet and 1.5 polyiso is $30 and zip-r 1.5 was quoted to me at $120 a sheet.
How do you resolve shear for the wall framing?
Steven, can you explain the difference in benefit or loss between the ZIP R (poly iso to studs) and putting poly iso on the exterior of the sheathing?
Hey mdk I have same question. Hope it gets answered.
ISO or EPS is better on the outside of the sheathing for shear strength as the sheathing is against the studs. The downside is another WRB is 'required' on the outside of the continuous insulation. That being said. Still far less expensive to post EPS or ISO and cover vs. ZipR but more labor. Atlas PolyISO or EPS is my cost basis for the comparison as it is Hubers ZipR supplier.
We are currently building a Brutalist Home in zone 5 with 2 framed rooftop structures that are clad in 4" EPS and covered directly in microcement (to match the rest of the structure) as you would do EIFS. It's a crazy efficent system.
@@Veritasi which is best at managing dewpoint? With zip-r the humidity inside passes through the wall cavity and hits Zip-R's ISO as opposed to passing through the OSB/Zip then hitting the ISO on the outside of the sheathing. I'm trying to understand which is best?
@@mdk777s6 Honestly, neither makes a large difference. The amount of moisture moving through the drywall can't really be mitigated passively. My goal has always been one way movement. I'm not in agreement with "a house that breathes" approach. I'd rather seal it up and actively control the air moisture. A well insulated and sealed wall will have very little 'dewpoint' layer. That being said, EPS is the easiest to 'dry' without ever have a mold concern.
Would it be the same as placing a larger (2x8) treated plate off the top of foundation wall vs a 2x2 added to bottom of exterior wall at 2x6 top plate of foundation wall?
Is it better to have the Zip-R off of the foundation wall? Or is it okay to use a quality sealant as a break between the polyiso and the concrete?
@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 been wondering why you use Zip R, Matt R used atlas on his house & why Daniel is using ROCKWOOL Comfortboard 80. (All for exterior insulation). Would be great to see a video & understand when to use which. I get all these brands are all sponsors, but from a science education why/when use each? Thanks for what you’re doing!!
Why dont you push the 2x6 walls towards the inside so that the zip comes flush with the outside face of concrete?
Does the cost of Zip R vs Huber zip plus exterior 2”, 1.”, .75 or .50” cheaper or the same cost?
How does the nailing pattern of ZIP-R affect the heat transfer? Obviously the nails are tiny but they're still highly conductive and ZIP-R requires a lot more of them. With all the extra nails required, doesn't that negate some of the benefits of the thermal break? I'm assuming this would be a small effect but curious if this has been studied.
Its actually a huge effect. Just as steel wall ties in a Thermomass concrete system negate 12.3% of the r-value vs removable/filled ties.
No effect. No more nails needed for ZIP R than with regular sheathing. I am structural and mechanical engineer and I call out the nailing pattern depending upon shear load required. I do engineering in the hurricane high wind areas of the country.
Steve, You hear about spray insulation and termite or ant infiltration of it, which can be a disaster, what about the polyisocyanate layer on Zip? Is there the same concern? Does Huber say that’s bug proof?
If you look at the section diagram (and most other SBA videos) the bottom sill plate is extended the depth of the ZipR or whatever external insulation is so as long as you do due diligence in your sealing, the bottom of the insulation is capped with solid wood. If you are in a place where the ant/termite problem is excessive , you can always use mineral wool panels instead.
@@JoeBieniecki The 2x8 bottom sill is 1.75" greater than the 2x6. Easy job for the framer to run his saw around and clip off the extra 1/4". Much the same as he does for cutting door openings in plates.
@@coasttal123 The 2x8 goes down first, just set the 2x6 position to whatever reveal you need
@@JoeBieniecki You would want them to be the same on the inside of the house, at least I would. This means the 2x8 sticks out 1.75" more. Easy to trim the 1/4" since the shoe on most Skil type saws is set for 1.5". This allows the R6 sheet of ZIP R to rest on the protruding, and trimmed, 2x8. Then Hardi or whatever goes smoothly over that.
What happens if a homeowner put a picture on the wall and poke holes in the vapor retarder ?
The zip sheathing is on the outside of the house. Pictures are nailed to drywall. The mail hit the studs or the insulation. No mail is going to go through 6 inches of insulation and another two inches of zip insulation, penetrating the green zip sheathing
How could this concept compete with SIP price wise?
Very good video. I would add the limitation that this video is for very cold climates. We would never put the sealed up vapor barrier on the inside of a wall in cooling dominated climates. And certainly much, much colder climates might need more outer insulation, and less in the wall cavity.
IDK, sounds like a lot of expense to save a couple grand every 5 years. You put that expense into your mortgage, it just got even more expensive. And you're talking about expensive plans, more expensive installation crews. I guess this is cool for rich people building expensive houses. Not so much for average people.
Dense pack cellulose
Can’t we put the dogs to bed before the video holy Pete!
They were in bed, they are big dogs!!!
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 you can tell… 😂 love your stuff btw keep them coming!