Post the cost of each as money is important to most folks Thanks for the great work you have shown. Compare such as a 4x8' garden wall 12-24" high to wood price would be a plus for me. Dang you are good at building and me too. Thanks
Terrific update! As a reinforced concrete special inspector, I appreciate your attention towards consolidation and curing. Can’t wait for the next update
This is how you do DIY! Thank you SO much for showing all details, and communicating your thought process, You have made me confident that what I am seeing is the real thing.
I really appreciate these wonderful videos. I bought your plans to express my gratitude. You put so much R&D into this series. I'm very inspired to make the lightweight garden walls. Thank you so much.
I love your easy to understand instructions and easy to follow video... You might want to try an even lighter mix, using NO sand... only perlite, portland cement and water... You do not need the sand as an aggregate because the perlite becomes the aggregate... and the mix is 4 parts perlite to 1 part portland cement... the panels will be much lighter... and strong..
Wow, your series on concrete/cement is amazingly well done. Really appreciate your detailed explanations on mix ratios, products, and test results. I made some stackable concrete planter parts a few years ago and they turned out way too heavy for me -- so if I ever do that again I'm going to try your perlite mix. Looks perfect.
This is fantastic information! I am watching all of your videos one after the other. It's like watching a mystery and needing to see what happens at the end.
Congratulations for your efforts. I think that an update to your mix of perlite would be adding it to the aircrete, so that way you'll be adding the strength to the aircrete. Just a thought. Keep up the good work.
Great design, nice proportions, beautifully photographed, expertly presented. This is something I have been thinking about for the past 10 years. You answered all my questions. Time to get off my butt.
Been fascinating watching the series and the results. I used a perlite/portland cement mix to lay a greenhouse base 25 years ago and it is still holding strong and stands up to wear and tear well. Where I live in the U.K. the soil is a heavy clay base. The addition of perlite helps aerate and lighten the soil giving much better growing results, over the clay soil.
I remember watching the previous editions of this series and hoped that you would continue trying new materials. Thank you for the update. I'm near certain my wife will love a set of these panels for next year's garden.
I've just watched all 5 videos in the series. I was disappointed you didn't perform some basic strength testing on the various material constructions. The idea of this series is to find a more durable material rather than wooden boxes, so it'd be good to see that tested. Sure you don't need them to be super strong, but some basic comparison would seem to be prudent.
so professional! I am simply impressed! And yeah: I crave the new aircrete-receipts, as I was in fear, you dropped this completely, as you could not like the warping in the older samples. THANKS FOR POSTING!!!
Incredibly detailed and easy to follow video, very well explained. You’re a great teacher! So many vids on yt expect us novices to know way too much stuff out of the gate, so thanks for explaning the details!
I am in ...very interesting. I built an entire garden enclosure yrs ago with methods very similar, I had fun doing it and after watching you I think I will give it another shot.
Hi! I bought the plans but i have not been able to make them. I wish i was handy. I asked a woodworker to give me a quote for them. No answer so far! Anyways i found the portland cement here and i got 20 bags of it for cheap. I hope im able to get these boxes up and running before the garden season kicks in. I just hope they arent too heavy for me to carry coz if they are then i have to entice my nephews to help me out :D I am gonna stack them 3 high for height of the beds so then when i get older i wont have issues with my back, shoulders and neck. Thanks for the plans these boxes are awesome :D Much love from Norway
I’ve watched all yr reinforced concrete vids. The perlite ones look more delicate and better for my small garden veg. Thanks for the precision; it makes me more confident the recipe will work. Will find a way to add hoop loops for cover, probably based on your plastic pipe and rebar method.
Vegetable shortening is a great form oil for this too. I used to make these with forms that were slightly flared, like the sides of a cake pan, then the panels would just drop out by flipping the form over. No disassembly required. Seems like radiusing the ends would allow them to be connected at any angle and long serpentine beds or stand alone beds with as many sides as you want could be made.
The red is my favorite! And I don’t normally prefer red bricks but this was a much lighter Adobe like appearance... stunning! Now I’d like to see lime without cement in your forms🤞🏼Lime floors are finally getting some acknowledgement as truly environmentally friendly, and can be reused unlike concrete/cement or today’s versions of an old traditional version of Rome’s concrete formerly known as Lime concrete. Besides the fact Lime gets stronger with time and moisture it’s also cooler to the touch when the sun has been bearing down on it making it perfect to be poured around pools and as back door patios. I’m curious if Lime has to be slaked at home “quicklime” or if hydrated or hydraulic lime (box store version) would function just as well? I’ve read arguments both supporting hydraulic lime and arguments that it needs to be freshly slaked... I have no idea, nor do I know what formula would make a strong block or brick for paving with hydraulic or hydrated lime. Yes ppl sometimes mix in cement/concrete but that ruins the water permeable/breathability nature of LimeCrete so I’d hate to use modern cement with lime. Seeing perlite used in this demonstration reminds me of a demonstration using powdered lime with volcanic ash as aggregate but also sand and pebbles may be necessary to make a brick/block. Anyways curious, hoping someone will take on the lime brick challenge, it’s not very popular because it’s not well known of its amazing properties and the fact that it is environmentally safe, reusable, etc. and grows in strength for 100’s and thousands of years.
Seriously mate, your channel is awesome. I just bought your 3 version package, not so much because I couldn't figure out how to build these myself but more as an expression of thanks for all the concrete R&D you've done and your willingness to share with us all. I do need to start replacing the Macrocarpa boxes that I made a few years ago, so these will be perfect for the job. Would make great Christmas gifts using a Nordic symbol for the inset panel for the gardeners in the family too. Cheers from down under for the videos mate
Be sure to wear a mask when working with dry perlite. The dust is a lung hazard, some nurseries pre-wet it to rinse out the dust before using. The volume does not change with rinsing.
I have no problem wearing masks with any dusty materials, and N-95 is considered a respirator and would be fine. Studies on miners in various countries have failed to show toxicity opposed to vermiculite, which often contains asbestos and requires an N-99 mask (hepa-filtered). See NIOSH-CDC.
Love this video. I grew up in a family of masons and your attention consolidation and curing was superb. According to a concrete engineer, the glass fibers really do not and reinforcement; they provide even curing in hopes of avoiding checking, though engineers do not guarantee against it. Steel (rebar) provides tensile strength (you can't stretch it to a fracture easily) and concrete provides compression strength, which varies to aggregate qualities and ratios of cement.
Love these videos and your experiment with various mixes, saves me the trouble. Perlite is a great idea due to surface area for portland or MCA to bind to. Using your idea to build forms out of steel now that wood has gotten so expensive.
Hi. Your videos, as usual, are a great source of inspiration. I'm placing this aside as I will definitely build some of these for my garden following your guidance. Thank you so much!
Really good stuff! Very good video. One comment: I'd try to mix the color with most of the water you plan to use to get a most even color distribution. e.g.: If you expect to use 20L of water for a batch of concrete, I'd mix the required amount of color with 18L of water first, then mix that into the dry mix. Just a thought!
Great work, I am really impressed with the effort you put into making the boxes lighter. Thank you so much for this. I am definitely going to try this process.
I'm probably going to make mine from your vermiculite portland mix from your other video. thank you so much for your detailed presentations. I can see your channel doing very well in the future!
Nice videos. I'm an experimenter too! Sometimes a bit costly, but intriguing to me. I wonder how pinned walkway blocks would hold up on a paver sand base. Hum, may have to try it. Thanks for the motivation. Tuna out.
Thanks! I never made a conscious effort to buy DeWalt. But they were always on sale when I was looking. And once you have invested in batteries they really have ya!
I am glad to come across your video , please take care of your wheelbarrow it is a very thick plastic type material , cannot find it anymore the big box has a thin one cheaper which crack fast .
I've always had hydration issues with perlite. Either too much water, and it's weak; or it doesn't compact well and completely. I think a 'superplasticizer' would help, but I didn't really care that much to go find some.
Great video !!! You did a great job of explaining your rationale on each experiment. I am ordering your plans and looking forward to mixing it up :-} Thanks again.
Great video, thank you. I've been looking at these lightweight concrete products and was wondering if it would be possible to use it to build walls or a roof. It's lightweight. It should supposed to have insulation qualities so it sounds like it would be perfect, but I've watched other videos too and it showed that it usually breaks real easy or rubs off. But I think they were making more of air creed so maybe that's a different. If you were going to build a concrete house, would you use regular concrete for the floor walls and ceiling or roof or would you use the perlite mixed with cement? Or should these lightweight concrete only be used for decorational purposes?
You can make it lighter by using foam in the mix. If you have a 50 gal drum you mix your concrete to 45 gal mark and then keep shooting in foam while mixing for the rest of the 5 gallon. it will make a light concrete that is still strong.
Excellent video Kent.....The methodical way you text and your production of the videos sets you apart. Question: Is there an upper limit of the amount of Perlite you can use before you see a loss in durability/performance? Thanks for all of your hard work.
I wish you do one with clay please that would be amazing since clay can’t get hot and it breath will cool the bed for hot areas thanks keep it up good luck
when we mix concrete we use 1:2:3 1 cement 2 sand 3 gravel it should be possible to just replace gravel with perlite. I haven't calculated what it does in terms of weight or strength. But it should work for that. leca balls are often used in renovations in bathrooms in apartments to save weight.
Would you comment how the cost of these lightweight panels compare to a standard sand/cement panel? I believe that the perlite would be the most expensive component of making these lightweight examples. Thank you for this very informative video.
2.2 pounds f water for every five pounds of cement, gray cement usually needs a little less water, I typically start with 1.8 pounds of water and add accordingly, white cement needs a little more water and the 2.2 pounds of H2O works better,also plasticizer helps makes the concrete stronger without the additional water
I'm borrowing your idea to make perlite concrete blocks that interlock like Legos. But only for the walls of a shed. I only have 20 forms so it's taking a while. The blocks lock together loosely with a bead of grout on the bottom and the inside. They lock together pretty tight from side to side so I'm thinking of just putting some silicone between them to make a weather seal. There is zero room for grout on the sides. Or maybe some liquid nails construction adhesive. Not sure yet. Still in the testing phase.
I really enjoyed your video, you asked for suggestions so I only have one. I've done a lot of cement mixing in wheelbarrows and I've found it much easier to mix with a hoe, plus you can get a more even mix. Keep up the good videos and good luck to you an old retired bricklayer Mike
A great replacement for aggregate are fired clay pebbles or "hydroton" with is commonly used in hydroponic growing and is becoming a mainstay in the construction industry due to is non compacting nature along with light weight and strength Keep up the good work
a suggestion would be styrofoam. break the pieces up and place in your blender with water. makes perfect little balls that are extremely lightweight. Use in place of vermiculite or perlite. 1 measure of cement 1 measure of mortar AC2 2 measures of crushed Styrofoam Enough water
Great series! Do you know the average cost per 48” panel (not including the form)? I wanted to do an estimate of what it’ll cost me to make a large quantity for my home. Thanks again for the series!
Your videos are magnificent! I'm always searching for 'best of kind' and you take that prize hands down. Just a little tip on mixing concrete: With a wheelbarrow, if you use a hoe, it's much better on your back and in fact, much easier to mix. I know that many people simply get used to using a shovel and don't want to change because of habit and inertia. But with a shovel, you are leveraging your back a lot which is harder and not too good for that back. But if you use a hoe, you are pushing and pulling with your arms and it is much easier to do, besides being much easier on the back. They make hoes with two 1 1/2" holes in the blade for just this purpose. :) What's so great (among many other things :) about your raised bed panels is the fact that unlike wood, you only have to build them once. I don't want to have to rebuild things on my homestead when I get old. Once and DONE is my motto! Along those lines, I don't know if you raise chickens or ever considered using a chicken tractor to pasture raise them for healthy meat & eggs but I recently came across the ULTIMATE chicken tractor which I just have to share. It was hidden among reams of other inferior chicken tractor listings on a TH-cam search and nobody else seemed to realize that this one from a small, obscure channel is a diamond among glass.... (For some reason YT won't let me post this with another YT URL in the text so just go to the Empty Hammock channel and the chicken tractor is there- only one) One and done and it's an incredibly elegant piece of design work too. There is hidden genius all around and you can find it if you look hard enough or with just the right thoughts in mind...! Cheers and may God bless!
P.S. I wonder if thin and long little galvanized nails (with a rough surface) thrown and mixed in would make a good "fiber" additive............. or a sort of randomized rebar replacement. I really wonder what that would do to the strength.
Out of all the concrete blocks that you made for the raised beds which concrete mix you think the best for durability, strength, longevity and practicality? How much each concrete block weight? How would you add a top cover to a concrete form to make a green house and protect from animals to have an access to the garden? Thank you for all ideas you share with us.
I am thinking ad some removable wedges and filler strips to allow those making their own molds so the finished panels are align able like tongue and groove boards.
Appreciate this kind of information and quality of the video is outstanding. Is the wire mesh really a requirement? Wouldn't the concrete cure to a suitable strength for the designed application and considering these are not structural components?
i wonder what it would look like for decking, having them being able to lock down from underneath, with a clip of some sort as long as it s durable to stand on side ways, and since decking joists or sixteen inches apart, it should be stronger, in theory only
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I now have molds ready-to-go here: manabouttools.com/store-plastic-concrete-molds/
The first concrete box video was Gold....this part is DOUBLE GOLD!!!!!!!!!!!
You are a true professional, thanks mate.
Post the cost of each as money is important to most folks
Thanks for the great work you have shown.
Compare such as a 4x8' garden wall 12-24" high to wood price would be a plus for me.
Dang you are good at building and me too.
Thanks
Somebody, please buy this man a cement mixer. He will then create even more amazing projects for us to follow and maybe mimic. Thank you.
I have one. I don't use it when testing and prototyping though. And I'd also like to show how most people can mix concrete without one.
@@MANaboutTOOLS This is one of the things i love about how you teach! When needed you bring in the big machines too!
Terrific update! As a reinforced concrete special inspector, I appreciate your attention towards consolidation and curing. Can’t wait for the next update
fully agreed! submerging also seemed like a great method to help an even curing and avoiding micro cracks!
@@gyorgyangelkottbocz9766 A good reason to make the panels short enough to fit in a bathtub.
I don't have not one tool. I watched every second of parts 1, 2, and 3. Now I'm here.
I think I want to make a "shed" and use these as walls.
Kent you're a clever guy and a natural teacher, you made it look easy and explained everything.
Brian from Liverpool - UK.
This is how you do DIY! Thank you SO much for showing all details, and communicating your thought process, You have made me confident that what I am seeing is the real thing.
I really appreciate these wonderful videos. I bought your plans to express my gratitude. You put so much R&D into this series. I'm very inspired to make the lightweight garden walls. Thank you so much.
Now this raises the question of "what about thin csa panels with perlite?" Great video, very well done.
thin csa panels - see video #4 in this series.
I am glad you're continuing this series.
Only courageous people share what they know. Thanks, greetings from Turkey
Thanks for watching!
I love your easy to understand instructions and easy to follow video... You might want to try an even lighter mix, using NO sand... only perlite, portland cement and water... You do not need the sand as an aggregate because the perlite becomes the aggregate... and the mix is 4 parts perlite to 1 part portland cement... the panels will be much lighter... and strong..
Thanks! I may try that mix.
Smooth professionalism of your videos make them a pleasure to watch; the researched findings are priceless.
Wow, your series on concrete/cement is amazingly well done. Really appreciate your detailed explanations on mix ratios, products, and test results. I made some stackable concrete planter parts a few years ago and they turned out way too heavy for me -- so if I ever do that again I'm going to try your perlite mix. Looks perfect.
Agree--exceptional detail, testing and even presentation quality...I could carry on but I won't. :D
ONE more thing: I revisit these on occasion. :D :D
I LOVE your attention to details and the way you explain everything, Thank you!!!
This is fantastic information! I am watching all of your videos one after the other. It's like watching a mystery and needing to see what happens at the end.
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks for using my suggestion about using perlite
Oh boy! Kent's at it again. Yeah, glad you did this, well done.
Congratulations for your efforts. I think that an update to your mix of perlite would be adding it to the aircrete, so that way you'll be adding the strength to the aircrete. Just a thought.
Keep up the good work.
Great design, nice proportions, beautifully photographed, expertly presented. This is something I have been thinking about for the past 10 years. You answered all my questions. Time to get off my butt.
Thank you very, very much! I so appreciate your positive feedback and support! Cheers, Kent
Been fascinating watching the series and the results. I used a perlite/portland cement mix to lay a greenhouse base 25 years ago and it is still holding strong and stands up to wear and tear well. Where I live in the U.K. the soil is a heavy clay base. The addition of perlite helps aerate and lighten the soil giving much better growing results, over the clay soil.
I remember watching the previous editions of this series and hoped that you would continue trying new materials. Thank you for the update. I'm near certain my wife will love a set of these panels for next year's garden.
I've just watched all 5 videos in the series. I was disappointed you didn't perform some basic strength testing on the various material constructions. The idea of this series is to find a more durable material rather than wooden boxes, so it'd be good to see that tested. Sure you don't need them to be super strong, but some basic comparison would seem to be prudent.
I did three videos testing strength: th-cam.com/video/0vK8TCHR79A/w-d-xo.html
Excellent video as always. I plan to build these using this perlite mix. Thank you.
Nice work. I am making some planters based upon your formula.
Thanks!
never thought about using concrete for garden boxes.. thank you for the information can hardly wait to make them myself..
The red is nice and seems Right. I think Green would be good too
Hiw are they holding up
so professional! I am simply impressed!
And yeah: I crave the new aircrete-receipts, as I was in fear, you dropped this completely, as you could not like the warping in the older samples.
THANKS FOR POSTING!!!
Incredibly detailed and easy to follow video, very well explained. You’re a great teacher! So many vids on yt expect us novices to know way too much stuff out of the gate, so thanks for explaning the details!
I am in ...very interesting. I built an entire garden enclosure yrs ago with methods very similar, I had fun doing it and after watching you I think I will give it another shot.
Could you do a weight test across all blends. Using the 48” see how much weight can be placed on them in the middle as they span two saw horses?
I am considering using these on our 2 4’x8’ raised gardens we will be installing and have the same center dirt weight concerns.
Density of weight concrete?
Hi! I bought the plans but i have not been able to make them. I wish i was handy. I asked a woodworker to give me a quote for them. No answer so far! Anyways i found the portland cement here and i got 20 bags of it for cheap. I hope im able to get these boxes up and running before the garden season kicks in. I just hope they arent too heavy for me to carry coz if they are then i have to entice my nephews to help me out :D I am gonna stack them 3 high for height of the beds so then when i get older i wont have issues with my back, shoulders and neck. Thanks for the plans these boxes are awesome :D Much love from Norway
I’ve watched all yr reinforced concrete vids. The perlite ones look more delicate and better for my small garden veg. Thanks for the precision; it makes me more confident the recipe will work. Will find a way to add hoop loops for cover, probably based on your plastic pipe and rebar method.
I was amazed with part 1 it just keeps getting better and better 🐓
Looking forward to seeing your aircrete tests ...Thanks Mike
Brilliant! Ty for the research. Presented so well. I didn't have much luck with aircrete, so I'm interested in your findings.
I'm almost done editing the next part on aircrete. Worked way better this time. Stay tuned....
@@MANaboutTOOLS can't wait to see that worked out
Vegetable shortening is a great form oil for this too.
I used to make these with forms that were slightly flared, like the sides of a cake pan, then the panels would just drop out by flipping the form over. No disassembly required.
Seems like radiusing the ends would allow them to be connected at any angle and long serpentine beds or stand alone beds with as many sides as you want could be made.
Seems easy enough method if you did not have to have the stake holder channels molded into the ends like he does here with his panels.
The red is my favorite! And I don’t normally prefer red bricks but this was a much lighter Adobe like appearance... stunning! Now I’d like to see lime without cement in your forms🤞🏼Lime floors are finally getting some acknowledgement as truly environmentally friendly, and can be reused unlike concrete/cement or today’s versions of an old traditional version of Rome’s concrete formerly known as Lime concrete. Besides the fact Lime gets stronger with time and moisture it’s also cooler to the touch when the sun has been bearing down on it making it perfect to be poured around pools and as back door patios. I’m curious if Lime has to be slaked at home “quicklime” or if hydrated or hydraulic lime (box store version) would function just as well? I’ve read arguments both supporting hydraulic lime and arguments that it needs to be freshly slaked... I have no idea, nor do I know what formula would make a strong block or brick for paving with hydraulic or hydrated lime. Yes ppl sometimes mix in cement/concrete but that ruins the water permeable/breathability nature of LimeCrete so I’d hate to use modern cement with lime. Seeing perlite used in this demonstration reminds me of a demonstration using powdered lime with volcanic ash as aggregate but also sand and pebbles may be necessary to make a brick/block. Anyways curious, hoping someone will take on the lime brick challenge, it’s not very popular because it’s not well known of its amazing properties and the fact that it is environmentally safe, reusable, etc. and grows in strength for 100’s and thousands of years.
Lime absorbs moisture indefintely
Seriously mate, your channel is awesome. I just bought your 3 version package, not so much because I couldn't figure out how to build these myself but more as an expression of thanks for all the concrete R&D you've done and your willingness to share with us all.
I do need to start replacing the Macrocarpa boxes that I made a few years ago, so these will be perfect for the job. Would make great Christmas gifts using a Nordic symbol for the inset panel for the gardeners in the family too.
Cheers from down under for the videos mate
Thanks so much! I really appreciate your kind words and support!!
Be sure to wear a mask when working with dry perlite. The dust is a lung hazard, some nurseries pre-wet it to rinse out the dust before using. The volume does not change with rinsing.
Yes, put lots of tiny holes in the bottom of the bag... fill with hose... let drain...
I have no problem wearing masks with any dusty materials, and N-95 is considered a respirator and would be fine. Studies on miners in various countries have failed to show toxicity opposed to vermiculite, which often contains asbestos and requires an N-99 mask (hepa-filtered). See NIOSH-CDC.
Love this video. I grew up in a family of masons and your attention consolidation and curing was superb. According to a concrete engineer, the glass fibers really do not and reinforcement; they provide even curing in hopes of avoiding checking, though engineers do not guarantee against it. Steel (rebar) provides tensile strength (you can't stretch it to a fracture easily) and concrete provides compression strength, which varies to aggregate qualities and ratios of cement.
I've enjoyed your series of the Garden Boxes a lot very helpful, thank you! Very high quality production and care to detail. Keep it up!
Just downloaded your plans for later use. Thanks for the tutorial videos.
Love these videos and your experiment with various mixes, saves me the trouble. Perlite is a great idea due to surface area for portland or MCA to bind to. Using your idea to build forms out of steel now that wood has gotten so expensive.
Hi. Your videos, as usual, are a great source of inspiration. I'm placing this aside as I will definitely build some of these for my garden following your guidance. Thank you so much!
Really good stuff! Very good video. One comment: I'd try to mix the color with most of the water you plan to use to get a most even color distribution. e.g.: If you expect to use 20L of water for a batch of concrete, I'd mix the required amount of color with 18L of water first, then mix that into the dry mix. Just a thought!
If you'd put all your concrete panel videos on a CD I'll buy one.
Great work, I am really impressed with the effort you put into making the boxes lighter. Thank you so much for this. I am definitely going to try this process.
I'm probably going to make mine from your vermiculite portland mix from your other video. thank you so much for your detailed presentations. I can see your channel doing very well in the future!
If I just keep watching the playlist eventually all of my questions will be answered LOL
I hope. But I try to answer as many questions as I can.
I would love to see a mix using Hemp and see how that compares.
That probably is with Hemp is finding a place to buy it.
THANK YOU !!!
I like this.
Wow... I think even an idiot like me might be able to make these! Very very very good videos! The perfect amount of explanation and video. Thanks!
Thanks for all your diligence and hard work on this series Kent. I love it!
Nice videos. I'm an experimenter too! Sometimes a bit costly, but intriguing to me. I wonder how pinned walkway blocks would hold up on a paver sand base. Hum, may have to try it. Thanks for the motivation. Tuna out.
Amazing craftsmanship. Good job
Excellent series !!! Nice choice in string trimmers too.
Thanks! I never made a conscious effort to buy DeWalt. But they were always on sale when I was looking. And once you have invested in batteries they really have ya!
I've found a corded or cordless hammer drill with an air hammer flathead bit settles mixes really well also.
Good tip! Thx
احسنت ابداع غير متناهي
I am glad to come across your video , please take care of your wheelbarrow it is a very thick plastic type material , cannot find it anymore the big box has a thin one cheaper which crack fast .
Thank you, I will
I've always had hydration issues with perlite. Either too much water, and it's weak; or it doesn't compact well and completely. I think a 'superplasticizer' would help, but I didn't really care that much to go find some.
Thank you
Great video !!! You did a great job of explaining your rationale on each experiment. I am ordering your plans and looking forward to mixing it up :-} Thanks again.
Awesome! Thank you!
Great video, thank you. I've been looking at these lightweight concrete products and was wondering if it would be possible to use it to build walls or a roof.
It's lightweight. It should supposed to have insulation qualities so it sounds like it would be perfect, but I've watched other videos too and it showed that it usually breaks real easy or rubs off. But I think they were making more of air creed so maybe that's a different.
If you were going to build a concrete house, would you use regular concrete for the floor walls and ceiling or roof or would you use the perlite mixed with cement? Or should these lightweight concrete only be used for decorational purposes?
Nice experimental video.. I will do same sampling soon.. n see the results... thanks..
You can make it lighter by using foam in the mix. If you have a 50 gal drum you mix your concrete to 45 gal mark and then keep shooting in foam while mixing for the rest of the 5 gallon. it will make a light concrete that is still strong.
i like your attention to detail Awesome series. I might suggest a ready rod type pin thru the width of the form for ease of assembly and disassembly
thanks for sharing the updates looking forward to more.
Excellent video Kent.....The methodical way you text and your production of the videos sets you apart.
Question: Is there an upper limit of the amount of Perlite you can use before you see a loss in durability/performance?
Thanks for all of your hard work.
Thanks for the support and kind words! I have not done extensive testing of the perlite ratios for lightweight concrete.
I wish you do one with clay please that would be amazing since clay can’t get hot and it breath will cool the bed for hot areas thanks keep it up good luck
when we mix concrete we use 1:2:3
1 cement
2 sand
3 gravel
it should be possible to just replace gravel with perlite. I haven't calculated what it does in terms of weight or strength. But it should work for that.
leca balls are often used in renovations in bathrooms in apartments to save weight.
Always enjoy these videos!
You did make another video!...just saw it now...thank you
Another fine demo. Thanks
You should make forms and sell them to those of us who have no carpenter skills.
Would you comment how the cost of these lightweight panels compare to a standard sand/cement panel? I believe that the perlite would be the most expensive component of making these lightweight examples. Thank you for this very informative video.
You can use a plasticizer like Flow Control to make the CSA easier to work without adding more water
Yes. I use that in other projects and videos. Works great!
Thanks for posting, excellent video.
2.2 pounds f water for every five pounds of cement, gray cement usually needs a little less water, I typically start with 1.8 pounds of water and add accordingly, white cement needs a little more water and the 2.2 pounds of H2O works better,also plasticizer helps makes the concrete stronger without the additional water
Thank you, your videos are very educational.
Really Cool! Thank you!
I'm borrowing your idea to make perlite concrete blocks that interlock like Legos. But only for the walls of a shed. I only have 20 forms so it's taking a while. The blocks lock together loosely with a bead of grout on the bottom and the inside. They lock together pretty tight from side to side so I'm thinking of just putting some silicone between them to make a weather seal. There is zero room for grout on the sides. Or maybe some liquid nails construction adhesive. Not sure yet. Still in the testing phase.
I really enjoyed your video, you asked for suggestions so I only have one. I've done a lot of cement mixing in wheelbarrows and I've found it much easier to mix with a hoe, plus you can get a more even mix.
Keep up the good videos and good luck to you
an old retired bricklayer
Mike
A great replacement for aggregate are fired clay pebbles or "hydroton" with is commonly used in hydroponic growing and is becoming a mainstay in the construction industry due to is non compacting nature along with light weight and strength
Keep up the good work
I love these. I wish I could just buy them in plastic!
a suggestion would be styrofoam. break the pieces up and place in your blender with water. makes perfect little balls that are extremely lightweight. Use in place of vermiculite or perlite.
1 measure of cement
1 measure of mortar AC2
2 measures of crushed Styrofoam
Enough water
What a great idea! Simplistic genius..
Thank you for terrific presentation!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent video and super useful project
Excellent video 👌👍
Thank you 👍
Great series! Do you know the average cost per 48” panel (not including the form)? I wanted to do an estimate of what it’ll cost me to make a large quantity for my home. Thanks again for the series!
I would love to know the $$$ too. I'd like to batch these out.
Your videos are magnificent! I'm always searching for 'best of kind' and you take that prize hands down. Just a little tip on mixing concrete: With a wheelbarrow, if you use a hoe, it's much better on your back and in fact, much easier to mix. I know that many people simply get used to using a shovel and don't want to change because of habit and inertia. But with a shovel, you are leveraging your back a lot which is harder and not too good for that back. But if you use a hoe, you are pushing and pulling with your arms and it is much easier to do, besides being much easier on the back. They make hoes with two 1 1/2" holes in the blade for just this purpose. :)
What's so great (among many other things :) about your raised bed panels is the fact that unlike wood, you only have to build them once. I don't want to have to rebuild things on my homestead when I get old. Once and DONE is my motto!
Along those lines, I don't know if you raise chickens or ever considered using a chicken tractor to pasture raise them for healthy meat & eggs but I recently came across the ULTIMATE chicken tractor which I just have to share. It was hidden among reams of other inferior chicken tractor listings on a TH-cam search and nobody else seemed to realize that this one from a small, obscure channel is a diamond among glass.... (For some reason YT won't let me post this with another YT URL in the text so just go to the Empty Hammock channel and the chicken tractor is there- only one) One and done and it's an incredibly elegant piece of design work too. There is hidden genius all around and you can find it if you look hard enough or with just the right thoughts in mind...! Cheers and may God bless!
P.S. I wonder if thin and long little galvanized nails (with a rough surface) thrown and mixed in would make a good "fiber" additive............. or a sort of randomized rebar replacement. I really wonder what that would do to the strength.
Out of all the concrete blocks that you made for the raised beds which concrete mix you think the best for durability, strength, longevity and practicality? How much each concrete block weight?
How would you add a top cover to a concrete form to make a green house and protect from animals to have an access to the garden? Thank you for all ideas you share with us.
I am thinking ad some removable wedges and filler strips to allow those making their own molds so the finished panels are align able like tongue and groove boards.
Appreciate this kind of information and quality of the video is outstanding.
Is the wire mesh really a requirement?
Wouldn't the concrete cure to a suitable strength for the designed application and considering these are not structural components?
i wonder what it would look like for decking, having them being able to lock down from underneath, with a clip of some sort as long as it s durable to stand on side ways, and since decking joists or sixteen inches apart, it should be stronger, in theory only