after all this time watching your videos it is amazing how many of the parts i now know the names for and the method of taking them out. i am much more confident with working on these wonderful machines. i can not thank you enough for your excellent videos. keep them coming
Slow start to the New Year you say? No, no, no... This vid was a rip-roaring start in my book. I just about had my nose pressed to the screen while I watched!
Bob, thank you so much! I've got a 15-88 that is in desperate need of a paint job that I REALLY want to do myself and I'm convinced your videos will be the only way I'll get up the nerve to do so. This one is great!
It's not as complicated as it looks. This is why I suggest people get a machine they really don't care about to learn on and experiment with. Baby steps!
@@BobFowlerWorkshop Thanks. Good advice. And, in contrast to “a machine that I wouldn’t care about”, I’m taking to my grave my everyday 201-2 that I restored thanks to you. And, yes…it will be an open-casket viewing. 😉
Thanks Marie! Here's a hint I didn't mention in the video... I use a sharp pointed punch (like a center punch) to get the pin started. If you use a punch that's too large, or even close to the same size as the small side of the pin, you can chowder the pin and you'll never punch it out. I know, I've drilled out my fair share of these. If you DO have to drill it out, you'll most likely need to reinstall with a roill pin.
whew, thanks for the video, currently cleaning an extremely dirty Singer 15-125, Celery. Unable to remove main shaft, but cleaned as best with krud kutter, triflow spray
Hi Bob, as always great content! I was just gonna say that I’ve never taken the center shaft out to remove the feed dog rock shaft. With the right angle the rock shaft can be removed and installed without messing with the center shaft. Thanks!
Jim, I would LOVE to see how you manage that! I just went back into my shop and put the lift shaft, feed rock shaft, and center shaft back in place. Unless you disconnect the feed dog arm from the rock shaft, there's no way you're getting that rock shaft out with the center shaft in place - the feed dog platform on the feed dog arm will not clear the parts of the casting that supports the shuttle race nor the shuttle driver. Regardless, if you DID remove the arm from the rock shaft, getting it adjusted again so that it operates correctly would be a nightmare. Maybe it's possible on some earlier flavors of the 15 series, but certainly not the -88 through -91. If you have a method, I want to see it! I can always use a great time saver!
I have my 27 Rusty that took apart. Well haven't yet try it to put it together. 😢I have been crying with the thoughts of how much trouble will be 😅. Having trouble getting a treadle 127 connecting with the shaft and needle. If I am having trouble with this I better star praying before I try to work on my 27.😢😅🙏
Good info Bob. You mentioned the zig zag appearance of the stitches caused by the feed dogs being set too high. I have that look to the stitches on my 201K. Now I'm going to be lowering the feed dogs on that machine. Do you have a video on how to do it or perhaps it is similar to the 15? It has bugged me for some time that my 201 has not given the perfect stitches that others say they give. Thank you for what you give to us.
I am wondering if you could do a Sunday morning quickie next week regarding a problem I’m having with my 201. My machine went out of timing and thanks to your videos on timing and needle height, everything is working almost perfectly again. My current issue is that my machine will not do a basting stitch. If I place the stitch adjustment lever in the lowest position, it moves up as I begin sewing. If I try holding it down, the machine won’t move at all. I don’t know if you’ve addressed it in an earlier video and I’m not using the right search terms, or if you haven’t done a video about my problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks so much for all you do!
@@TeresaBearCFP Usually, if this happens, the feed dog is hitting the needle plate at an extreme end of the stitch. Double check that adjustment. It's shown on page 50 of the adjusters manual. You can download that from my website (for free) here: bobsvsmservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Singer-201-adjusters-manual.pdf.pdf
Hey Bob! Not done watching but if I don’t ask now I will forget…You mentioned that if the feed dogs are too high that it can cause the stitches to be offset and look like a hash mark…would you say that is true in other models as well? Or just with the 15-91? Curious…
I usually don't get them out without damage. Fortunately brass escutcheon pins in 14 and 16 gauge are pretty easy to come by. Unfortunately, the replacements I have found do not have flower heads. BTW - 16 gauge usually fit the best, but there are times when I have chosen to drill out the body and use #14.
I have a 15 that won't lower feed dogs.the screw is there but the bar that hooks on to feed dogs and screw is missing!!!!! Beautiful machine but who would've removed that bar???😮😢
I don't use Apple products. I have been issued an iPhone from my day job and I just don't like it, and I've never liked Apple computers, I'm a Windows kinda guy... but only barely! If Corel made VideoStudio for Linux, I'd be using that.
I presume the issue you're having is with the pin on the small crank arm on the end opposite of the shuttle driver. Are you sure you were driving the small side of the pin? The problem with trying to redeem a mushroomed pin is if you attempt to cut it down, say by grinding, it's almost impossible to even see the pin anymore as it becomes indistinguishable from the shaft. Unfortunately, in order to remove the feed rock shaft with the feed extension, it's necessary to remove that center shaft, and the way the center shaft is ground, it only comes out of the hook end of the machine. I have no idea of your skill or comfort level, but what I have done in the past is to stabilize the shaft in a position where the mushroomed end is easily accessible using a large vise grip locking pliers to prevent the shaft from moving, then centerpunching the mushroom and CAREFULLY drilling out the pin. You can use a suitably sized roll pin to reattach the crank arm when the time comes. Here's the rub... It's REAL easy to mess that up and make it worse, MUCH WORSE! So take it into consideration that the drilling method might produce a nice big addition to your parts collection in the form of your current machine and you'll be looking for another. What I would recommend is to leave the machine largely together, remove the pivots at the ends on the rock shafts and clean and polish them, with the pivot screws out of the body, you can clean the inside ends (the pivot parts) with the shaft still mostly in the machine, and just do the best you can without yanking out that center shaft. You won't have everything else as sparkly and new looking, though it's still possible to do a great job, but you won't ruin a machine either.
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Love your videos. Thanks.
after all this time watching your videos it is amazing how many of the parts i now know the names for and the method of taking them out. i am much more confident with working on these wonderful machines. i can not thank you enough for your excellent videos. keep them coming
Thanks! I like to watch videos by Marshall at Wristwatch Revival... I now know more about watch parts than I ever thought possible!
Slow start to the New Year you say? No, no, no... This vid was a rip-roaring start in my book. I just about had my nose pressed to the screen while I watched!
Well Megan, considering what I wanted to do these past two weeks vs what I actually accomplished, it was definitely a slow start!
Happy Saturday Bob and Liz!!
Great to see and hear you !!
Thanks so much!
Bob, thank you so much! I've got a 15-88 that is in desperate need of a paint job that I REALLY want to do myself and I'm convinced your videos will be the only way I'll get up the nerve to do so. This one is great!
So helpful. I don’t normally investigate this part of the machine. Now, this inches up my confidence. Thank you! 👏
It's not as complicated as it looks. This is why I suggest people get a machine they really don't care about to learn on and experiment with. Baby steps!
@@BobFowlerWorkshop Thanks. Good advice. And, in contrast to “a machine that I wouldn’t care about”, I’m taking to my grave my everyday 201-2 that I restored thanks to you. And, yes…it will be an open-casket viewing. 😉
Hi Bob! I still get uneasy knocking out that center shaft pin 😂 thanks for your amazingly valuable help.
Thanks Marie! Here's a hint I didn't mention in the video... I use a sharp pointed punch (like a center punch) to get the pin started. If you use a punch that's too large, or even close to the same size as the small side of the pin, you can chowder the pin and you'll never punch it out. I know, I've drilled out my fair share of these. If you DO have to drill it out, you'll most likely need to reinstall with a roill pin.
Good start to the new year!❤❤ Life long learning is a good thing! Thank you so much🎉🎉🎉
Thanks!
Thanks Bob.
Glad you liked it Dennis!
whew, thanks for the video, currently cleaning an extremely dirty Singer 15-125, Celery. Unable to remove main shaft, but cleaned as best with krud kutter, triflow spray
Hi Bob, as always great content!
I was just gonna say that I’ve never taken the center shaft out to remove the feed dog rock shaft. With the right angle the rock shaft can be removed and installed without messing with the center shaft. Thanks!
Jim, I would LOVE to see how you manage that! I just went back into my shop and put the lift shaft, feed rock shaft, and center shaft back in place. Unless you disconnect the feed dog arm from the rock shaft, there's no way you're getting that rock shaft out with the center shaft in place - the feed dog platform on the feed dog arm will not clear the parts of the casting that supports the shuttle race nor the shuttle driver. Regardless, if you DID remove the arm from the rock shaft, getting it adjusted again so that it operates correctly would be a nightmare. Maybe it's possible on some earlier flavors of the 15 series, but certainly not the -88 through -91. If you have a method, I want to see it! I can always use a great time saver!
I have my 27 Rusty that took apart. Well haven't yet try it to put it together. 😢I have been crying with the thoughts of how much trouble will be 😅. Having trouble getting a treadle 127 connecting with the shaft and needle. If I am having trouble with this I better star praying before I try to work on my 27.😢😅🙏
You'll get it, I have faith in you!
Good info Bob. You mentioned the zig zag appearance of the stitches caused by the feed dogs being set too high. I have that look to the stitches on my 201K. Now I'm going to be lowering the feed dogs on that machine. Do you have a video on how to do it or perhaps it is similar to the 15? It has bugged me for some time that my 201 has not given the perfect stitches that others say they give. Thank you for what you give to us.
It's the same as on the 15. You probably don't have to lower by much, just a little usually does the trick.
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm going to be doing that soon to my 201. @@BobFowlerWorkshop
I am wondering if you could do a Sunday morning quickie next week regarding a problem I’m having with my 201.
My machine went out of timing and thanks to your videos on timing and needle height, everything is working almost perfectly again.
My current issue is that my
machine will not do a basting stitch. If I place the stitch adjustment lever in the lowest position, it moves up as I begin sewing. If I try holding it down, the machine won’t move at all.
I don’t know if you’ve addressed it in an earlier video and I’m not using the right search terms, or if you haven’t done a video about my problem. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks so much for all you do!
Is this the 201 that's having the issue?
Yes, the 201
@@TeresaBearCFP Usually, if this happens, the feed dog is hitting the needle plate at an extreme end of the stitch. Double check that adjustment. It's shown on page 50 of the adjusters manual. You can download that from my website (for free) here:
bobsvsmservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Singer-201-adjusters-manual.pdf.pdf
Thanks!
Where can you I find the blue metal "disassemble mounting rack" (I don't even know what to call it) that your machine is attached to? Thanks
Hey Bob! Not done watching but if I don’t ask now I will forget…You mentioned that if the feed dogs are too high that it can cause the stitches to be offset and look like a hash mark…would you say that is true in other models as well? Or just with the 15-91? Curious…
Just about all of them. I see uneven stitches a lot on machines and altering feed dog height clears up 99% of them.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop I never made the connection! Thanks Bob!
How do you get the badge pins out without destroying them?
I usually don't get them out without damage. Fortunately brass escutcheon pins in 14 and 16 gauge are pretty easy to come by. Unfortunately, the replacements I have found do not have flower heads. BTW - 16 gauge usually fit the best, but there are times when I have chosen to drill out the body and use #14.
I have a 15 that won't lower feed dogs.the screw is there but the bar that hooks on to feed dogs and screw is missing!!!!! Beautiful machine but who would've removed that bar???😮😢
email me... I want to see a pic of what you have there. I can probably help you out. argosybob@gmail.com
Have you looked at the Apple Mac Mini with a M1, M2 or M3 cpu.....very fast
I don't use Apple products. I have been issued an iPhone from my day job and I just don't like it, and I've never liked Apple computers, I'm a Windows kinda guy... but only barely! If Corel made VideoStudio for Linux, I'd be using that.
I mushroomed the pin on the middle shaft with too large of a tap. Any way I can redeem it?
I presume the issue you're having is with the pin on the small crank arm on the end opposite of the shuttle driver. Are you sure you were driving the small side of the pin? The problem with trying to redeem a mushroomed pin is if you attempt to cut it down, say by grinding, it's almost impossible to even see the pin anymore as it becomes indistinguishable from the shaft. Unfortunately, in order to remove the feed rock shaft with the feed extension, it's necessary to remove that center shaft, and the way the center shaft is ground, it only comes out of the hook end of the machine.
I have no idea of your skill or comfort level, but what I have done in the past is to stabilize the shaft in a position where the mushroomed end is easily accessible using a large vise grip locking pliers to prevent the shaft from moving, then centerpunching the mushroom and CAREFULLY drilling out the pin. You can use a suitably sized roll pin to reattach the crank arm when the time comes.
Here's the rub... It's REAL easy to mess that up and make it worse, MUCH WORSE! So take it into consideration that the drilling method might produce a nice big addition to your parts collection in the form of your current machine and you'll be looking for another. What I would recommend is to leave the machine largely together, remove the pivots at the ends on the rock shafts and clean and polish them, with the pivot screws out of the body, you can clean the inside ends (the pivot parts) with the shaft still mostly in the machine, and just do the best you can without yanking out that center shaft. You won't have everything else as sparkly and new looking, though it's still possible to do a great job, but you won't ruin a machine either.
Where's Bob?