Great video. Inspired by Corbeet, I installed a similar system in my house to replace a downdraft venting that basically didn't work. Unfortunalley, Corbeet made a mistake in his video that almost made me buy a wrong piece. At 5:19 he says "I replaced one of these knobs because I wanted to use the EC function of my fan, which basically means it can run from 0, infinite variable, to full speed.". Although he is right that if you have a EC fan you need to buy that extra speed controller, that has nothing to do with variable speed. So, by saying that "I wanted to use the EC function of my fan, which basically means it can run from 0, infinite variable, to full speed" is not technically correct. EC is just a different technology that makes the fan work on a more efficient way (but it also has its downside such as less CFM). In other words, you do not need the EC fan to have variable speed. In fact, the fantech hood already comes with an infinite variable speed already built-in for non-EC fan. So, if you are not planning in using a EC fan (like my case), you don't need to buy that extra speed controller. With that said, here are the pieces he used: First, for those looking for the specs he used on the video, this is what he used: . HL 42: Hood Liner . EC-10VHL: Range Hood Liner Speed Control . LD 10: 8 inch silencer . RVF8XLEC: 8" Exterior Wall Mount Fan with EC Motor Other than that small mistake, great video and I happy with my final installation here.
3:08 - reducing the hood duct from 10 to 8 has another positive effect for this application. It will also increase the air velocity a bit in the duct and make your capture rate at the hood more effective. Sorry about having to hack the switch for EC but you won't be sad about that system, ever. Great vid Corbett! Nice shirt!
When I built our kitchen I used a 36" hood so it is a little bigger than the stove but placed the upper cabs so in the future it can be replaced with a 48" in the future. I Crack the window open when I use it and may incorporate your fresh air under the stove in the future like you did. What I would do differently is put in a second hood on the other side of the kitchen just for kitchen cooking appliances like fryers, toaster ovens etc. Oh and I will put the dish washer on a stand to get it up off the floor as the typical install is not good on the back having to bend over for everything.
@@HomePerformance We went gas as induction was out of the budget. However We have a counter top induction unit that we use in the summer as it doesn't heat the kitchen up like the gas does even with good ventilation there is a significant heat load with them. However I do most cooking on the grill... Next time I head out to Atlanta I might have to haul out an extra rack of ribs for you. Need to make a trip back out to jodaddys garage and take another rack to him.
I could not find the hood or electronics you used on the website. If you could please give model #s of products used and wear they can be purchased thank you ! Explanations and descriptions are well done and appreciated !
New information from one of my replies, but I thought it was significant to mention here as a stand alone. Oh WOW, I just went back and checked the video just to see if I could see the Mylar I did not but at 3:12 Corbett shows the label, I stopped the video to see if the label mentioned Mylar, it did not but what I did notice is the note on the label saying "wash filter frequently". This scares me even more than before, people do not do things that are inconvenient and the way this vent is constructed cleaning was not considered. I would say you would have to disassemble the hood so you could wash the inside of the duct. Maybe a mop would work, but really scary stuff. -MG
Would it also make sense to apply water-based sealant to the seams on the hood liner or is this not necessary? Also, what fasteners did you use to secure your hood liner to framing? Great video, thanks!
Do you have more details of how you installed the hood liner? The fantech instructions dont give good instructions to a DIYer. Did you user 2x4's to build the frame? How did you secure the liner to the wooden frame?
I would think you would look in the instructions that came with it for that kind of information. If it isn't covered I would email them, and if you get no further with that I would think it's something that you would have to inspect yourself for signs it needs cleaning, using an inspection mirror and flashlight. Then you either clean it, if it can be cleaned, or replace it. I would think whether it can be cleaned and reused or not depends on what material is used behind the holes that are inside it. If you would rather extra noise than worrying about that I would say run a straight pipe, which would still get grease in it over time and would still need to be cleaned but would be simpler to clean. I was thinking about that too though as I've seen grease concerns before though I don't cook much of anything that's greasy or use oils even moderately.
How high is the vent hood from the cooktop surface? And I can't wait to see what it looks like when the hood facade is done, everything looks so elegant, but also kinda like it's from 2050. Especially those amazing lights.
Haha, thanks Nerdineering- I miss the exposed ductwork, to be honest, but it looks much classier this way. Show you soon. And the vent hood is the minimum height the manufacturer specs- 30" above cooktop I believe.
Great video content! I will definitely use a silencer on all future kitchen exhaust fans. I wonder if a silencer would quiet a bath exhaust fan (if they make an external fan mount bath exhaust fan)?
I will be remodeling my kitchen in a couple of months, adding duct silencer is a very good solution to reduce noise. I'm curious to know, how do you synchronize the hood exhaust and make-up air to attain zero air valance inside the house did you use analog control?
I am currently designing my personal house in Florida, and am a huge proponent of exterior-mounted exhaust fans for kitchens and bathrooms (provided that rigid ducts are being used)... But I am curious to know: where along the exhaust did you install the backdraft damper? or was the fan already equipped with one?
@@HomePerformance Thanks for obsessing over this; it has helped a lot... Slightly unrelated topic: From what I understand, cooking in butter, tallow or lard, will not gunk up your system as do vegetable oils.
Can you comment on the '4-wire control line' with this EC controller? I have looked at their wiring diagrams, and it appears the control system is low voltage DC, and requires 3 lines (including ground), and the fan requires 3 'regular' 120v AC wires (one being ground, one being neutral, one being hot). So how does this translate into a 4-wire control line?
@@HomePerformance Thanks for the response. There really isn't a manual that shows the wiring scheme for the system as a whole. Maybe you can remember if the power for the fan was delivered via the 4-wire line you refer to? Or was that 4-wire line just the low voltage DC control wire, and you ran a separate 120v 2-wire line to the fan directly?
After watching your videos, I finally got the fantech rvf 8xl external fan an 8" silencer and a speed control. I need to build this over an island which was using an old jennair cooking range that pulls air from below. I find the fantech hood liner so expensive, with a remote blower can't we just build a custom box and drop some baffles inside? Or maybe get a used range and pull the motor out. Will be testing the under-counter ducts for make-up air. Coming directly at the cooking surface, it might not need a heater, but probably a bad idea since the duct is not insulated and I'm in very cold climate.
@@HomePerformance Oh yeah, I will be putting baffles, the same commercial ones you showed, found some for 10-20$ a piece. Will have to build a box to hold them and we barely use any fat or oils in our cooking, will see how it goes. Thanks so much!
Could even route another smaller duct for a pizza oven + air fryer using the same blower and a manual flap to open it when needed. Then put a single oil baffle in a big square steel register.
Can I have 2 kitchen hood exhaust combined into one silencer and one exhaust fan? ( spice kitchen and main kitchen). Also when you say fan is outside it is either in attic or above the ceiling inside the conditioned space right?
Thanks for the video Corbett - Can you provide the part number to the switch that you used on the hood liner and the motor that you used on the supply side?
@@HomePerformance Thank you. I found it some time ago, it’s the EC10-VHL. No longer requires soldering, just screw in now. Since installed the HL36 along with MUAS750 with the prioAir8 EC and all works great. Appreciate your videos!
is it feasible to use an 8" silencer with a 10" in line fan? The length of the 10"fantech silencer is 35 1/2 vs the 8" being 23 5/8. i have limited space and the length of the 8" allows me more room to manuever and create a better direct line air flow. are there any repercussions?
Hey Terry, I wouldn't downsize the 10" duct with an 8" silencer, but easily fixed: just use a 10" duct silencer instead! shop.fantech.net/en-US/ld--10--silencer/p115546
If it’s in a straightaway, the flat surfaces of the silencer shouldn’t be a significant problem. The fan is a bigger issue (and when have you heard of anyone actually disassembling one of these to clean it?)
I was thinking the same thing. That being said, I think that Fantech's silencer are 100% steel and don't use paper/foam so it might be ok. I'm working on a similar setup in a new kitchen I'm building and now I'm thinking maybe I should throw in a silencer like that...
@@HomePerformance again it slows the flow changes its profile and inspector would force you to correct if he was a good one. Smooth wall start to finish no exceptions
SO how did you get this past an inspector? This is a complete violation of most codes I have seen. You placed a grease trap inside your ducting. Code requires a smooth pipe from the source to the exit. The internal holes in the baffle are a SERIOUS fire hazard. So did this get inspected? -MG
@@HomePerformance Okay but not sure I understand the comment. The code specifically says the kinds of materials and that they be smooth walled. It says even corrugated metal is a no no. So how can you use a non smooth pipe with a non approved insulation. In fact I would think that the insulation would act like a sponge. I am not trying to be a pain, but this can be serious, the insulation makes me think of a tiki torch wick. My concern is safety I understand your using induction which would be unlikely to flash flame, but others that follow this example might not. -MG
@@HomePerformance no I’ve not risked it. I have had jobs rejected for corrugated material so I went to smooth and didn’t look back. The code allows for following manufactures suggestions but the rejection I got was based on the fire hazard. I know rockwool won’t burn, but the holes make the insulation a capture point. I would think a sound absorbing material on the inside of the outer tube would allow for a smooth inner tube, but fantech shows the thing as a vent for kitchens. In this situation they own the liability of there product. -MG
@@meshedgears2794 According to HVACquick, an online retailer for Fantech: " The silencer is lined with Mylar so that grease in the airstream does not soak into the silencing material. "
I didn't have a great experience with the system. I have a RVF-8XL and HL36 system. 8" rigid duct with 2 elbows and about 6 feed of straight run to the wall. The fan noise was VERY VERY VER Y loud. Like a jet engine, about 75dB at high and 62dB at low. I don't have room for the silencer -- wish I had insisted and made room for it. Called FanTech support, they said my run is too short, so wind noise is expected. However, another issue is the humming noise from the motor at low speed -- when I turned the fan to low speed, I can head an annoying humming noise from the motor. Again, FanTech said it is expected because the fan is trying to run at full speed but it is 'slowed down' by the variable speed control, hence the loud humming noise. I am very disappointed with this setup; wish I had gone with something else. Yes, the fan is strong and can suck a lot but the noise is unbearable. I hope someone is here can offer some suggestion.
Great video.
Inspired by Corbeet, I installed a similar system in my house to replace a downdraft venting that basically didn't work.
Unfortunalley, Corbeet made a mistake in his video that almost made me buy a wrong piece.
At 5:19 he says "I replaced one of these knobs because I wanted to use the EC function of my fan, which basically means it can run from 0, infinite variable, to full speed.".
Although he is right that if you have a EC fan you need to buy that extra speed controller, that has nothing to do with variable speed. So, by saying that "I wanted to use the EC function of my fan, which basically means it can run from 0, infinite variable, to full speed" is not technically correct. EC is just a different technology that makes the fan work on a more efficient way (but it also has its downside such as less CFM).
In other words, you do not need the EC fan to have variable speed. In fact, the fantech hood already comes with an infinite variable speed already built-in for non-EC fan. So, if you are not planning in using a EC fan (like my case), you don't need to buy that extra speed controller.
With that said, here are the pieces he used:
First, for those looking for the specs he used on the video, this is what he used:
. HL 42: Hood Liner
. EC-10VHL: Range Hood Liner Speed Control
. LD 10: 8 inch silencer
. RVF8XLEC: 8" Exterior Wall Mount Fan with EC Motor
Other than that small mistake, great video and I happy with my final installation here.
Its a fire hazard you should pull the silencer the internal holes capture grease.
3:08 - reducing the hood duct from 10 to 8 has another positive effect for this application. It will also increase the air velocity a bit in the duct and make your capture rate at the hood more effective. Sorry about having to hack the switch for EC but you won't be sad about that system, ever. Great vid Corbett! Nice shirt!
Haha, thanks mysunnyjim
No it wont..."Caprure rate increased" by decreasing cfm is absurd. Velocity will be increased but thats all. Sounds smart though.
When I built our kitchen I used a 36" hood so it is a little bigger than the stove but placed the upper cabs so in the future it can be replaced with a 48" in the future. I Crack the window open when I use it and may incorporate your fresh air under the stove in the future like you did. What I would do differently is put in a second hood on the other side of the kitchen just for kitchen cooking appliances like fryers, toaster ovens etc. Oh and I will put the dish washer on a stand to get it up off the floor as the typical install is not good on the back having to bend over for everything.
It takes a lifetime to invent all the tweaks! Btw, the induction cooktop surface is where we put our air fryer, panini press, etc.
@@HomePerformance We went gas as induction was out of the budget. However We have a counter top induction unit that we use in the summer as it doesn't heat the kitchen up like the gas does even with good ventilation there is a significant heat load with them. However I do most cooking on the grill... Next time I head out to Atlanta I might have to haul out an extra rack of ribs for you. Need to make a trip back out to jodaddys garage and take another rack to him.
🤜🤛
I could not find the hood or electronics you used on the website. If you could please give model #s of products used and wear they can be purchased thank you ! Explanations and descriptions are well done and appreciated !
New information from one of my replies, but I thought it was significant to mention here as a stand alone.
Oh WOW, I just went back and checked the video just to see if I could see the Mylar I did not but at 3:12 Corbett shows the label, I stopped the video to see if the label mentioned Mylar, it did not but what I did notice is the note on the label saying "wash filter frequently". This scares me even more than before, people do not do things that are inconvenient and the way this vent is constructed cleaning was not considered. I would say you would have to disassemble the hood so you could wash the inside of the duct. Maybe a mop would work, but really scary stuff.
-MG
Getting better with your explanations
Thanks
So I’ve implemented this inline remote fan with Fantech but now wondering what kind of hood to use for the hood liner? Thanks.
Would it also make sense to apply water-based sealant to the seams on the hood liner or is this not necessary? Also, what fasteners did you use to secure your hood liner to framing? Great video, thanks!
Do you have more details of how you installed the hood liner? The fantech instructions dont give good instructions to a DIYer. Did you user 2x4's to build the frame? How did you secure the liner to the wooden frame?
Are you not worried about grease packing up in the silencer?
I would think you would look in the instructions that came with it for that kind of information. If it isn't covered I would email them, and if you get no further with that I would think it's something that you would have to inspect yourself for signs it needs cleaning, using an inspection mirror and flashlight. Then you either clean it, if it can be cleaned, or replace it. I would think whether it can be cleaned and reused or not depends on what material is used behind the holes that are inside it. If you would rather extra noise than worrying about that I would say run a straight pipe, which would still get grease in it over time and would still need to be cleaned but would be simpler to clean. I was thinking about that too though as I've seen grease concerns before though I don't cook much of anything that's greasy or use oils even moderately.
@williamlehmaniv7460 you guys are overthinking it- don’t worry, video coming
How high is the vent hood from the cooktop surface?
And I can't wait to see what it looks like when the hood facade is done, everything looks so elegant, but also kinda like it's from 2050. Especially those amazing lights.
Haha, thanks Nerdineering- I miss the exposed ductwork, to be honest, but it looks much classier this way. Show you soon.
And the vent hood is the minimum height the manufacturer specs- 30" above cooktop I believe.
That is awesome ours sounds like a 747 is landing in our kitchen, everything has to be exhausted to outside in australia
Great video content! I will definitely use a silencer on all future kitchen exhaust fans.
I wonder if a silencer would quiet a bath exhaust fan (if they make an external fan mount bath exhaust fan)?
Save yourself the trouble- they make many models of bath fans at 0.5 sone or less, can barely hear them.
don't interrupt the flow is a grease capture and fire hazard.
I will be remodeling my kitchen in a couple of months, adding duct silencer is a very good solution to reduce noise. I'm curious to know, how do you synchronize the hood exhaust and make-up air to attain zero air valance inside the house did you use analog control?
The MUAS brain gets set up with real life testing to know what the fan flow variability is. Have fun with your reno.
don't it is a grease trap and a fire hazard
That is crazy quiet. What is the loudest thing in this home? What type of price range is there on an exhaust hood?
scratch price. I found it on google. A lot more reasonable than I was thinking.
You’re gonna laugh your butt off when I show you. Next week’s video.
I am currently designing my personal house in Florida, and am a huge proponent of exterior-mounted exhaust fans for kitchens and bathrooms (provided that rigid ducts are being used)... But I am curious to know: where along the exhaust did you install the backdraft damper? or was the fan already equipped with one?
Hey TMP- it’s a butterfly damper in the horizontal end of the 90 degree elbow up top.
@@HomePerformance Thanks for obsessing over this; it has helped a lot... Slightly unrelated topic: From what I understand, cooking in butter, tallow or lard, will not gunk up your system as do vegetable oils.
Whoa, that’s past my obsession’s specialization, sorry Troy!
Can you comment on the '4-wire control line' with this EC controller? I have looked at their wiring diagrams, and it appears the control system is low voltage DC, and requires 3 lines (including ground), and the fan requires 3 'regular' 120v AC wires (one being ground, one being neutral, one being hot). So how does this translate into a 4-wire control line?
Sorry, don’t remember the details. But if the current controller manual shows 3-wire, great.
@@HomePerformance
Thanks for the response. There really isn't a manual that shows the wiring scheme for the system as a whole.
Maybe you can remember if the power for the fan was delivered via the 4-wire line you refer to? Or was that 4-wire line just the low voltage DC control wire, and you ran a separate 120v 2-wire line to the fan directly?
@spruce_goose5169 yes, power via 14AWG directly to fan, control knob only communicates via 24v
Corbin, Is there a concern with the silencer becoming saturated with grease?
Not really, it’s a straight shot, no reason for it to get greasier than any other component.
I apologize for butchering your name...Corbett 😬
No worries my man, the Army gave me a cert of appreciation once on a USO Tour that said ‘Blorbitt Lungsboor’, nobody can top that
😂
yes yes yes it bad
After watching your videos, I finally got the fantech rvf 8xl external fan an 8" silencer and a speed control. I need to build this over an island which was using an old jennair cooking range that pulls air from below. I find the fantech hood liner so expensive, with a remote blower can't we just build a custom box and drop some baffles inside? Or maybe get a used range and pull the motor out. Will be testing the under-counter ducts for make-up air. Coming directly at the cooking surface, it might not need a heater, but probably a bad idea since the duct is not insulated and I'm in very cold climate.
Unicorn, the baffles are very important for catching grease- otherwise your whole system, and the fan, will get coated in it over time. Good luck.
@@HomePerformance Oh yeah, I will be putting baffles, the same commercial ones you showed, found some for 10-20$ a piece. Will have to build a box to hold them and we barely use any fat or oils in our cooking, will see how it goes. Thanks so much!
Could even route another smaller duct for a pizza oven + air fryer using the same blower and a manual flap to open it when needed. Then put a single oil baffle in a big square steel register.
Keep thinking outside the box, unicorn, these are interesting ideas!
don't use the silencer its a fire hazard. holes catch grease and can burn..
Can I have 2 kitchen hood exhaust combined into one silencer and one exhaust fan? ( spice kitchen and main kitchen). Also when you say fan is outside it is either in attic or above the ceiling inside the conditioned space right?
silencer is a grease trap and a fire hazard
Thanks for the video Corbett - Can you provide the part number to the switch that you used on the hood liner and the motor that you used on the supply side?
I too am looking for the part number on the switch. I can't seem to find it anywhere
8XL-EC fan, can’t remember pot # but it’s the only one from Fantech
@@HomePerformance Thank you. I found it some time ago, it’s the EC10-VHL. No longer requires soldering, just screw in now. Since installed the HL36 along with MUAS750 with the prioAir8 EC and all works great. Appreciate your videos!
Do you have the part number for that EC switch? I'm buying the same hood and fan and would also like that type of control over the fan speed.
Thanks!
Gosh I don’t, sorry. But their tech support will know.
@@HomePerformance Thanks!
is it feasible to use an 8" silencer with a 10" in line fan? The length of the 10"fantech silencer is 35 1/2 vs the 8" being 23 5/8. i have limited space and the length of the 8" allows me more room to manuever and create a better direct line air flow. are there any repercussions?
I should add that the 10"fan is already installed. Just want to add the silencer.
Hey Terry, I wouldn't downsize the 10" duct with an 8" silencer, but easily fixed: just use a 10" duct silencer instead!
shop.fantech.net/en-US/ld--10--silencer/p115546
@@HomePerformance thx
don't use a silencer is a grease trap and a fire hazard
Won't that silencer gather a lot of grease and need cleaning?
that was my exact thought
If it’s in a straightaway, the flat surfaces of the silencer shouldn’t be a significant problem. The fan is a bigger issue (and when have you heard of anyone actually disassembling one of these to clean it?)
I was thinking the same thing. That being said, I think that Fantech's silencer are 100% steel and don't use paper/foam so it might be ok. I'm working on a similar setup in a new kitchen I'm building and now I'm thinking maybe I should throw in a silencer like that...
@@HomePerformance again it slows the flow changes its profile and inspector would force you to correct if he was a good one. Smooth wall start to finish no exceptions
SO how did you get this past an inspector? This is a complete violation of most codes I have seen. You placed a grease trap inside your ducting. Code requires a smooth pipe from the source to the exit. The internal holes in the baffle are a SERIOUS fire hazard. So did this get inspected?
-MG
I’ll put it on the list of videos for you buddy.
@@HomePerformance Okay but not sure I understand the comment. The code specifically says the kinds of materials and that they be smooth walled. It says even corrugated metal is a no no. So how can you use a non smooth pipe with a non approved insulation. In fact I would think that the insulation would act like a sponge. I am not trying to be a pain, but this can be serious, the insulation makes me think of a tiki torch wick. My concern is safety I understand your using induction which would be unlikely to flash flame, but others that follow this example might not.
-MG
You might know more sbout this than me, but the insulation is rockwool, and it’s pretty smooth in there- have you used one of these before?
@@HomePerformance no I’ve not risked it. I have had jobs rejected for corrugated material so I went to smooth and didn’t look back. The code allows for following manufactures suggestions but the rejection I got was based on the fire hazard. I know rockwool won’t burn, but the holes make the insulation a capture point. I would think a sound absorbing material on the inside of the outer tube would allow for a smooth inner tube, but fantech shows the thing as a vent for kitchens. In this situation they own the liability of there product.
-MG
@@meshedgears2794 According to HVACquick, an online retailer for Fantech: " The silencer is lined with Mylar so that grease in the airstream does not soak into the silencing material. "
I can’t believe how quiet that is
Dreamy
I didn't have a great experience with the system. I have a RVF-8XL and HL36 system. 8" rigid duct with 2 elbows and about 6 feed of straight run to the wall. The fan noise was VERY VERY VER Y loud. Like a jet engine, about 75dB at high and 62dB at low. I don't have room for the silencer -- wish I had insisted and made room for it. Called FanTech support, they said my run is too short, so wind noise is expected. However, another issue is the humming noise from the motor at low speed -- when I turned the fan to low speed, I can head an annoying humming noise from the motor. Again, FanTech said it is expected because the fan is trying to run at full speed but it is 'slowed down' by the variable speed control, hence the loud humming noise. I am very disappointed with this setup; wish I had gone with something else. Yes, the fan is strong and can suck a lot but the noise is unbearable. I hope someone is here can offer some suggestion.
Wow, that sucks @V Lo, so sorry to hear
Great
My toaster exhaust game is weak.
Happy to help buddy boy
Why not just use aluminum foil tap?
It comes loose after years of drying out