Mustang Front Lower Control Arm Install - 05-09 FRPP GT500 Style M-3075-E
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- See these GT500 Mustang Front Lower Control Arms here: www.latemodelre...
Worn out lower control arms on S197 Mustangs are a common reason for pops and other annoying sounds coming from the front suspension. Chances are the bushings and ball joints have worn out. To ease the install on our Mustang we decided to use the ¬Ford Racing GT500 Lower Control Arms ( M3075E ). These control arms include pre-installed performance bushings and ball joint. Having these already installed on the control can cut down drastically on your install time.
Head over to LatemodelRestoration.com or click on the link above to pick yours up today!
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A TECH TIP FOR ALL AS I JUST DID THS - 1) YOU DO NOT have to loosen the rack for the long bolt 2) Have a helper and it goes very smooth
1) Remove the control arm to spindle bolt first but don't try to pop the arm out of the spindle yet
2) Loosen almost all the way the two rear bolts (yes, you have to use the two wrench trick for now, no way around it but it works)
3) Loosen the large bolt but don't try to remove yet
4) NOW pull the control arm to spindle (ball joint) out now that you have some play to move the control arm
5) Remove the spring clip holding the rubber tie rod boot (slide it down ) and CLIP the one time boot clamp near the inner tie rod and slide the boot down out of the way - THIS IS GOING TO HELP YOU GET THE LONG CONTROL ARM BOLT OUT
6) Two people - One person pushes the whole spindle assemble AWAY from the bolt (Grab the caliper for grip and PUSH ). The other person wiggles the long bolt out while you hold the assemble away 0 Note, the bolt WILL slide out under ball of the inner tire rod
7) now you can remove the two remaining back bolts all the way and remove the control arm
To reassemble - Follow in reverse order EXCEPT THIS KEY NOTE
When you are putting the long bolt back in make sure you don't insert the ball joint end in until you have TORQUED the bolt (again you are going to PUSH the assemble away to get a torque wrench in
The two back bolts are a pain in the original orientation BUT Ford says flip upside down with the NUTS on tope and bolts underneath. This is great because it now allows you to get a torque wrench on them for proper toque.
Its easy if as I say, you have a helper and don't be afraid to do this upgrade.
Thank you for posting this. will be much easier on jack stands without doing this.
You absolutely do not have to looses/ remove the rack... just turn the wheel and it pops out
Losen/remove the rack is probably a bit safer
Thanks for the video - it really helped. I do disagree with one thing though. Instead of moving the rack, Its WAY easier to just unscrew the tie rods and let them hang. You can turn the wheel to move them over as far as possible. After struggling with the rack bolts for over an hour, I did this...you need to realign the front end anyway. You still have to work around the tie rod boots a bit, but it's still easy.
The best tutorial video and also a lot tips. I learned a lot from this tutorial. now im able to repair my own car and also to share my videos with all you.
No problem. It is such a common issue we felt we needed to educate S197 owners on it.
Thank You Mine broke out of state, and i feel pretty confident on how to replace it
i did this repair on an 05 too. i did not have to take rack and pinion/ or steering gear loose. i slid the boot down towards tie rod end after loosening it. turned wheel all the way right.unhooked balljoint from spindle and then moved spindle / tie rod / shock/rotor caliper forward and there was enough room to get long bolt out. i started to take off the steering gear but my first efforts couldnt loosen one bolt. small hiccup when other side with two nuts was raised up.it made a worse angle on long bolt.i stuggle a little two put that side back in orignal positon for minute.
Practically the same. There are just a few differences in the control arm design. You might find a different bolts size or two... other than that it will be the same.
So much for proper torque values and replacing the hardware. Per the factory suspension hardware is one time use only. This video got the job done, but not correctly.
hey, very good observation. Those back bolts for the control arms are supposed to be torqued to 136 foot pounds and the front to 155 foot pounds. How do you get a torque wrench on the back control arm bolts? can't use a deep well six point socket because its too deep to fit in between the floor pan and bolt and a standard six point is too shallow. any ideas?
So just a thought and tell me if this works. You are replacing the lower control arm and Ball joint ..so why not just remove the tie rod, inner and outer (much easier than the rack) and change the tie rod end while you are doing it ? Its a cheap deal, adds value and much easier to ge tto the bolt.....and whats this about one time use bolts?
Looks good. Thanks for the great lesson!
Since its corrected to say you should put the suspension under load before tightening the front bolt, does that mean lower the car (with wheels) to the ground or just put a jack under the suspension side? Doesn't that mean the ball joint side needs to be in place and torqued first ?
I want to know this as well. I've read that people suggest putting it under load
since i fitted these my mustang GT 07 has been making so much clunking and clicking noises its unreal.... did i get a faulty batch! or has anyone else expienced this
Are the rack bolts REALLY hard to get out ? I see they are in there in a tight space ...hoping I can squeeze a breaker bar SOMEHOW - they should have put the bolt in from the bottom and welded the nut on top ..any suggestions ?
I just attempted this last night. I purchased a 1/2 breaker bar and 18mm deep socket and still couldn't remove the steering rack. II didn't want to spend $150+ on an impact drill and sock to remove two bolts.
relw0lf Did you ever get your car fixed? reason i ask is i was wondering if you tried a cheater pipe, that usually does the trick!!
how much of this installation applies to 2010-up mustangs?
QUESTION???!!! Don't you need to put the control arm under load BEFORE you tighten the FRONT c.a. bolt??????
Thanks for no response!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Michael Timko JMAC did put load on the front control arm before tightening down the bolt. We apologize, but that was an editing mistake on our part.
Thank you very .much
Is preload in the traditinaly method even necessary with these style control arms? if you tighten the control arm bolts to spec are you not putting the control arm under preload when pulling the control arm down to fit the ball joint in the strut socket?
What’s your thought on just replacing the ball joint? Is it worth the time? Or better off just doing the whole control arm
I heard moog mustang gt lowers are just the same for v-6 and gt are exact as gt500
Hey LMR ....please see my question below as well as the question from Tom Brochard ..thanks
Can I use this ford racing gt 500 control arms on my 07 v6 4.0L mustang?
Emmanuel Estrada Yes, this will fit your 2007 V6 Mustang. -Landan
I'm about to attempt this with an 01 mustang. Is there anything different I need to worry about such as spring load?
Hey, there, i had a question, i have a 91 GT vert and im redoing my suspension,new bilstein struts and new control arms,i purchased a brand new set of A arms and one of the bushings on each arm is not fully seated, i thought this was odd,i got to looking around eBay for people selling old A arms to compare them and some have that bushing fully seated and some don't.
i work in a full machine shop so i have access to lots of tools to press that bushing in but wasn't sure if i should,pretty odd situation,i mean they are both in the same spot on both arms so that leads me to believe maybe thats correct? just kinda wanted someone Else's opinion,i didn't buy them from you guys but i buy lots of things from 5.0 resto and this arms are identical to the ones you guys sell,not the ford racing ones but the ones that are like 50 dollars cheaper which by the way what is the difference betwenn the FRP ones that are 295 a setr and the ones that are 239 a set on your site? a brand name ?
Can worn control arms cause left to right bump steer I've pretty much replaced everything on my suspension except control arms and I still have left pull and bumpsteer when I hit bumps
Aaron Taylor Yes. The 05-09 cars are notorious for worn out control arm bushings. This can cause all kinds of suspension issues. The most common is "popping" noise
Thank you so much I replaced them and my ride is like brand new
do you have a video for a 2004 Mustang replacing the front lower control arms?
You will have to remove the spring first. Watch our spring installation video to see how to remove your front springs. Once that is done the installation is a cake walk!
You're dealing with a completely different suspension design, so this video and the steps included are not applicable to your 2001.
How different is the process on a 2012 gt
to remove the steering rack, yea you can REALLY do that with 3/8 ratchet. bull crap.
I can’t get the ball joint in the hole for the life of me.
Will these fit a 2010 GT500?
These will fit 2010 Mustangs built on or before 08/03/09. Look at the door tag and see when the build of your car was. If it's after the specified date you'll need the later model S197 front control arms. I linked the offerings below. -Landan
lmr.com/item/LRS-3079FK/mustang-front-lower-control-arm-kit-11-14
lmr.com/item/MCF2309-K/mustang-front-lower-control-arm-kit-1114
Hi, are there any videos for 2004 Mustang front lower control arm replacement?
These control arms are crap. Installed a pair of these 2 years ago and the ball joints are looser than the original ball joints that had 55000 miles on them. Ford Motorsport control arm ball joints failed with only 15000 miles
Man, that guy looks sleepy.
Idk bout anyone else but I don't have a LIFT in my driveway..wtf..easy if you can stand up the whole time..LMAO😂
i did this repair on an 05 too. i did not have to take rack and pinion/ or steering gear loose. i slid the boot down towards tie rod end after loosening it. turned wheel all the way right.unhooked balljoint from spindle and then moved spindle / tie rod / shock/rotor caliper forward and there was enough room to get long bolt out. i started to take off the steering gear but my first efforts couldnt loosen one bolt. small hiccup when other side with two nuts was raised up.it made a worse angle on long bolt.i stuggle a little two put that side back in orignal positon for minute.