Actually the difference between the auto and manual transfer case is quite just that. The auto has buttons and the manual is a lever in the floor that you move manually. Great video!!!
This is a excellent video. It helped me do all three of these fluid services in one day on a virtually identical vehicle, a white 2006 Silverado 2500HD 4x4. Bought it new and have had for almost 17 years. I don't believe I ever changed any of these fluids. The truck is at 144,000 miles. The rear differential oil still looked new. The gears are still pristine. I found maybe 1-2 teaspoons of metal sludge on the magnet. The front differential oil was a little cloudy and I found some small flakes of metal on the magnet. The transfer case oil was really easy to change, took less than 10 minutes. The transfer case oil was dark red. I took time to paint the rear differential cover while I had it off. Thank you for helping me easily get through through these services. If only I had a lift....
ALWAYS make sure the fill plug can be removed BEFORE draining. At a shop I managed one of the techs drained diff then found out the fill plug was stripped. Had to drill it out which caused a lot of extra work.
Can you do a video on 2003-2006 & 07 classic Chevy Silverado front drive train / axle outer seals that are right behind the CV axle mount plate.. can’t seem to find any videos anywhere online showing how it’s done and how to go about replacing / servicing those seals.. thanks in advance. Also this video was simple yet perfect for visual & audio explanation on how to go about a fluid service for the front - rear differential & transfer case as well 👍🏼
Unfortunately I don’t have any videos in near future for this as of right now. I’m surprised there are none out there. But when the chance come I will definitely to one.
On the Front Differential it looked like there was something bigger than metal fillings on the magnetic drain plug or was it just normal wear clumped together. I just bought a 2004 GMC ENVOY getting ready to turn over 300K and plan on doing these pretty soon. Thanks for all three in one video.
If you can’t get the fill plug out / off then you won’t be able to refill / service the fluid. What is keeping you from getting your fill plug screw out? )( if the screw plug for the refill opening is striped out.. the way I was able to get mine out / off was taking the drain plug screw out allowing the fluid to drain all the way out as much as possible then I took a propane torch and turned it up 3/4 full blast and sat the can / torch standing up and was able to get the flame to directly hit the center of the plug screw.. and I allowed it to heat the plug up for about 10-12 minutes or so then I inserted a 5-6” socket extension onto a solid ratchet and witch a hard rubber mallet beat the extension into the square fitment hole until it was all the way in then took the handle off my 3 ton jack and used it as a breaker bar and was able to break loose the screw-plug and remove the fill plug. Make sure to work quickly once you remove the torch flame away from the plug screw. That way it stays hot and makes it easier to remove. It also wouldn’t hurt to before hand take some penetrating oil and spray all around the screw and spray it 3-4 and up to 7-8 times over a few hour period and allow it to sit over night if possible before going ahead with the heat and breaker bar method 👍🏼 if the fill plug isn’t a square opening and it’s a bolt head that happens to be striped out or something then take a 6 point impact rated socket 1 size down and use that socket to beat onto the striped bolt head. And don’t use power tools. It will make the chances of striping it out even move if it decides to spin or strip even more. And last but not least. May have to weld the proper tool onto the plug and once that’s welded into it then use hand tools as well. Once getting that plug out. Go to advanced auto or whatever auto parts store of yours choice and get a new plug. Just make sure it’s magnetized and has a rubber O Ring 🤙🏻 hope this helps and if you got any questions feel free to message me or comment back and I’ll help ya out
Hows your Diff now 3 years later? I only ask this cause i hear you are not suppose to use LS fluid on these Diffs and it doesn't say in the manual. It is not a limited slip differential.
the 'manual transfer case' is the one that has a shift leaver on the floor board. the automatic transfercase is the buttons by the headlamp switch. no 2500HD trucks had the 'auto 4wd switch'..
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE yeah all the 1500s had the automatic feature, aside of the AWD of coarse. I discovered this when I needed a transfer case shift motor for my 2500hd, and was sent a 1500 one. The key ways are different. I also discovered GM no longer makes a 2500hd shift motor for our generation truck which is unfortunate.
Called my local dealer, gave him the VIN he said I needed the AutoTrak 2 fluid for my transfer case and I have the same one you gave (push button). Just FYI.
I was looking to see who else would realize and bring up that a Manuel transfercase is the floor shifter all button 4wd options are considered automatic, aside from that great video brotha
Well I had a heck of a time finding fluid for my transfer case. I found red and blue fluid but my fluid was black. Going to the auto parts store the clerk insisted that no manufacturer sells black fluid! I went with red cuz its my favorite color!
Must not have been changed for awhile. Just a reminder the blue is for the autotrac transfer case only and red is for the manual push button transfer case.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE yeah Im changing all my drivetrain fluids. My daily driver blew up so driving the truck instead of buying another winter beater. Good video and thanks!
When in doubt if you have a manual or an automatic transfer case then just mix 50/50 of each type of fluid. Plus, it makes it a pretty purple color. 😂😉 Disclaimer: I am just kidding. Don't mix different types of fluids together.
Here’s a video I did on a 2016 Journey for the rear diff had to replace the seal and refill th-cam.com/video/IiRNz49DhpU/w-d-xo.html . For the front diff/ptu I believe it’s very similar and takes the same 75w-90 gear oil but double check your owners manual. Sorry but unfortunately I don’t have a video on how to do this yet.
The oil in the front end look pretty gray or silver which means there is a lot of metal shavings. That was a lot of material on that magnetic drain plug there's definitely been some damage done in that front end but I would feel it and run it as well lol
The differentials aren’t limited slip so they need oil without LS additives. You need straight oil. Even the G80 locker isn’t limited slip. I know it’s hard to find 75w-90 gear without LS. Delvac is one brand that doesn’t have LS
No thats still a manual t-case. I'm talking about the auto 4wd some trucks have it which pretty much is the same thing as Awd. If you have that you'll have four push buttons for 4x4 on the left side of the dash.
I figured he would recommend the wrong lubricant for the rear diff. The G80 does not have clutching plates . Just moving mechanical parts. Read the diesel suppliment. It calls out a lubricant with no additive. GM of course sells it, as well as, if I recall, a company called Red Line. Incorrect lube may not destroy your diff, but it appears it can cause chattering. For a couple of bucks extra I wasn't willing to gamble on it. NEVER take anything you learn from the internet as truth untill you verify it yourself.
Haven’t had any issues with chattering. I’ve seen many shops and dealerships use 75w-90 with ls additive especially Mobil 1 for years and never had any problems with chattering.
Haven't changed my fluid yet but I learned this in my research so far and was scanning the comments to see if anyone else said this. Thank you for confirming!
I have a '20 Silverado 1500 RWD. There does not seem to be a drain plug on it though the fill plug/cover are certainly there. Was hoping to avoid opening the cover... Does anyone have this same situation? Thank you.
A lot of the 1500 silverados don't have a drain plugs you will have to pull the cover which sometimes is a good thing because then you can inspect the gears for wear. If your not up to pulling the cover you could always find a vacuum pump to suck the old gear oil out or use a piece of small tubing that fits in the fill hole and the other end on an old lotion bottle pump.
Great video. You make it look easy and show that all of us can change these fluids, if we want.
Your camera work is excellent. You did a great job of clearly showing up close well placed, well lit shots. Thank you.
Actually the difference between the auto and manual transfer case is quite just that. The auto has buttons and the manual is a lever in the floor that you move manually. Great video!!!
As someone else mentioned, always always always open the fill first! Great video!
This is a excellent video. It helped me do all three of these fluid services in one day on a virtually identical vehicle, a white 2006 Silverado 2500HD 4x4. Bought it new and have had for almost 17 years. I don't believe I ever changed any of these fluids. The truck is at 144,000 miles. The rear differential oil still looked new. The gears are still pristine. I found maybe 1-2 teaspoons of metal sludge on the magnet. The front differential oil was a little cloudy and I found some small flakes of metal on the magnet. The transfer case oil was really easy to change, took less than 10 minutes. The transfer case oil was dark red. I took time to paint the rear differential cover while I had it off. Thank you for helping me easily get through through these services. If only I had a lift....
Thank you for sharing. I have a 2003 silverado 2500HD with 134000 miles and was wondering how imperative these fluid changes are
Thank you for sharing. I have a 2003 silverado 2500 hd with 140000 miles and was wondering how imperative it was to change these fluids
ALWAYS make sure the fill plug can be removed BEFORE draining. At a shop I managed one of the techs drained diff then found out the fill plug was stripped. Had to drill it out which caused a lot of extra work.
Can you do a video on 2003-2006 & 07 classic Chevy Silverado front drive train / axle outer seals that are right behind the CV axle mount plate.. can’t seem to find any videos anywhere online showing how it’s done and how to go about replacing / servicing those seals.. thanks in advance. Also this video was simple yet perfect for visual & audio explanation on how to go about a fluid service for the front - rear differential & transfer case as well 👍🏼
Unfortunately I don’t have any videos in near future for this as of right now. I’m surprised there are none out there. But when the chance come I will definitely to one.
Thank you for making this video. You’ve made it easy to learn how to service my own truck!
On the Front Differential it looked like there was something bigger than metal fillings on the magnetic drain plug or was it just normal wear clumped together. I just bought a 2004 GMC ENVOY getting ready to turn over 300K and plan on doing these pretty soon. Thanks for all three in one video.
Exactly what I was looking for. Well done instructive video straight to the point
Always make sure you can get the fill plug off first. What is you drain and cannot get fill plug off?
If you can’t get the fill plug out / off then you won’t be able to refill / service the fluid. What is keeping you from getting your fill plug screw out? )( if the screw plug for the refill opening is striped out.. the way I was able to get mine out / off was taking the drain plug screw out allowing the fluid to drain all the way out as much as possible then I took a propane torch and turned it up 3/4 full blast and sat the can / torch standing up and was able to get the flame to directly hit the center of the plug screw.. and I allowed it to heat the plug up for about 10-12 minutes or so then I inserted a 5-6” socket extension onto a solid ratchet and witch a hard rubber mallet beat the extension into the square fitment hole until it was all the way in then took the handle off my 3 ton jack and used it as a breaker bar and was able to break loose the screw-plug and remove the fill plug. Make sure to work quickly once you remove the torch flame away from the plug screw. That way it stays hot and makes it easier to remove. It also wouldn’t hurt to before hand take some penetrating oil and spray all around the screw and spray it 3-4 and up to 7-8 times over a few hour period and allow it to sit over night if possible before going ahead with the heat and breaker bar method 👍🏼 if the fill plug isn’t a square opening and it’s a bolt head that happens to be striped out or something then take a 6 point impact rated socket 1 size down and use that socket to beat onto the striped bolt head. And don’t use power tools. It will make the chances of striping it out even move if it decides to spin or strip even more. And last but not least. May have to weld the proper tool onto the plug and once that’s welded into it then use hand tools as well. Once getting that plug out. Go to advanced auto or whatever auto parts store of yours choice and get a new plug. Just make sure it’s magnetized and has a rubber O Ring 🤙🏻 hope this helps and if you got any questions feel free to message me or comment back and I’ll help ya out
Thank you very much, looking forward to trying this. I hate how much mechanics charge lol - always looking to save a buck and learn - and get dirty.
Holy shit underneath your truck is clean af no rust love it 😎👌🏻
Dude loved simplicity of you video thanks.
Thanks I appreciate the positive feedback.
Excellent video thanks for helping me get this figured out, now I can do the same to my truck 😁😎👍👍
Hows your Diff now 3 years later? I only ask this cause i hear you are not suppose to use LS fluid on these Diffs and it doesn't say in the manual. It is not a limited slip differential.
the 'manual transfer case' is the one that has a shift leaver on the floor board. the automatic transfercase is the buttons by the headlamp switch. no 2500HD trucks had the 'auto 4wd switch'..
Good to know must have been just the 1500 and suvs like the tahoes and suburban that had the auto 4wd.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE yeah all the 1500s had the automatic feature, aside of the AWD of coarse. I discovered this when I needed a transfer case shift motor for my 2500hd, and was sent a 1500 one. The key ways are different. I also discovered GM no longer makes a 2500hd shift motor for our generation truck which is unfortunate.
If it has buttons for the 4x4 then it takes the auto trak 2 fluid....Manual will have a dog leg and ive heard 5w-30 oil does great
Called my local dealer, gave him the VIN he said I needed the AutoTrak 2 fluid for my transfer case and I have the same one you gave (push button). Just FYI.
I was looking to see who else would realize and bring up that a Manuel transfercase is the floor shifter all button 4wd options are considered automatic, aside from that great video brotha
Well I had a heck of a time finding fluid for my transfer case. I found red and blue fluid but my fluid was black. Going to the auto parts store the clerk insisted that no manufacturer sells black fluid! I went with red cuz its my favorite color!
Must not have been changed for awhile. Just a reminder the blue is for the autotrac transfer case only and red is for the manual push button transfer case.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE yeah Im changing all my drivetrain fluids. My daily driver blew up so driving the truck instead of buying another winter beater.
Good video and thanks!
It’s black because it’s dirty
When in doubt if you have a manual or an automatic transfer case then just mix 50/50 of each type of fluid. Plus, it makes it a pretty purple color. 😂😉
Disclaimer: I am just kidding. Don't mix different types of fluids together.
Clean and simple, what's your recommendation on changing these on a 2016 Journey with 75k?
Here’s a video I did on a 2016 Journey for the rear diff had to replace the seal and refill th-cam.com/video/IiRNz49DhpU/w-d-xo.html . For the front diff/ptu I believe it’s very similar and takes the same 75w-90 gear oil but double check your owners manual. Sorry but unfortunately I don’t have a video on how to do this yet.
The oil in the front end look pretty gray or silver which means there is a lot of metal shavings. That was a lot of material on that magnetic drain plug there's definitely been some damage done in that front end but I would feel it and run it as well lol
Great video!! Thanks!!
We’ll done. Cheers 🍻
Finally exactly what i needed! thanks man
good video, thanks
Top plug first always
Great video! Thanks so much
Great video 💯
Good video. Thanks
I miss my SVT
The differentials aren’t limited slip so they need oil without LS additives. You need straight oil. Even the G80 locker isn’t limited slip. I know it’s hard to find 75w-90 gear without LS. Delvac is one brand that doesn’t have LS
So is the oil he used not the right oil for these trucks?
@@racequad9 exactly
Would I need the same amount fluids for an automatic ‘03 2500 SLT? Extended cab.
I believe so just double check your owner’s manual under the capacity chart to make sure.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE thank you so much 😄🙌🏽
@@loganrufus1316 your welcome also just double check the weight of oil and what it calls for.
so the manual t-case isn't the one on the floor where you have to manually put it in 4x4 hi and low?
No thats still a manual t-case. I'm talking about the auto 4wd some trucks have it which pretty much is the same thing as Awd. If you have that you'll have four push buttons for 4x4 on the left side of the dash.
thankz
What size bolt is the skid plate?
Should be a 15mm.
I figured he would recommend the wrong lubricant for the rear diff. The G80 does not have clutching plates . Just moving mechanical parts. Read the diesel suppliment. It calls out a lubricant with no additive. GM of course sells it, as well as, if I recall, a company called Red Line.
Incorrect lube may not destroy your diff, but it appears it can cause chattering. For a couple of bucks extra I wasn't willing to gamble on it.
NEVER take anything you learn from the internet as truth untill you verify it yourself.
Haven’t had any issues with chattering. I’ve seen many shops and dealerships use 75w-90 with ls additive especially Mobil 1 for years and never had any problems with chattering.
Haven't changed my fluid yet but I learned this in my research so far and was scanning the comments to see if anyone else said this. Thank you for confirming!
Good👍 work
I have a '20 Silverado 1500 RWD. There does not seem to be a drain plug on it though the fill plug/cover are certainly there. Was hoping to avoid opening the cover... Does anyone have this same situation? Thank you.
A lot of the 1500 silverados don't have a drain plugs you will have to pull the cover which sometimes is a good thing because then you can inspect the gears for wear. If your not up to pulling the cover you could always find a vacuum pump to suck the old gear oil out or use a piece of small tubing that fits in the fill hole and the other end on an old lotion bottle pump.
Por favor traducir al Español
What ....no cussing at it ??? You never lost your tool you were working with ? Wth ??? I'm not sure that's right ???
Diff fluid changes easier than engine oil because no filter and more space.
Lotion pump,,,.? We are not judging you,,,,
😂😂😂
😂😂😂
Great information !!!!