Getting the molds made and assembling them on the strongback really gets you a feel of the lines of the boat. Great episode Bob and excellent commentary on the process. Thanks for sharing.
desde Austria,. veo sus videos y me han servido para prepararme y construir mi bote. Realmente con mucha humildad tecnica y pedagogia....lo Felicito...🥃
I, too, started watching your videos after your visit to Arabella was published. I appreciate the effort you've made to not just document, but teach how and why you are doing the individual steps. Thanks!
Kudos on your teaching skills. I love wood work and find it very therapeutic and satisfying to massage an idea into reality; the whole time exercising order and attention to detail (OCD). Well, I have to get on to the next video. I enjoy the process....
I have just purchased the plans of the Haven, and was a bit unsure where to start. I am so grateful to see what to do. This will be my second boat build, the last was the 7.7 Nut Shell Pram, sailing version. It it was a challenge, but it floats! I like the style of your presentation, as you take the time to explain what you are doing. Thank you so much, and I look forward to watching the rest of your videos.
Hello Bob, I congratulate you on your work and your ability to teach everything you do, thank you very much really, you are very useful for all of us who love to build things. Greetings from Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Thank you so much for the quality of your videos. Your skill as a pedagogue should make you start offering courses for all those who want to share the know-how in boatbuilding. When are you starting? Soon I hope.
Hi Denis, The short answer is I have started a course about a year and a half ago. Boat Building Bootcamp is a comprehensive online course that covers all the basic boat building terms and procedures. In addition to a library of resources (videos and books) I hold a live boat building clinic one a week online. If you like to learn more I would like to invite you to schedule a 30 call with me where I can tell you more and answer any of your questions. You can schedule a call at this link: calendly.com/artofboatbuilding/boat-building I hope to hear from you soon. Cheers, Bob
Great videos. Your commentary is in depth without waffeling on and on. Shows great methodology behind the approach at a good pace. Thanks for taking the time with these. One thing, please please wear at least a good dust mask whenever you are working with MDF. Those particles are nasty. The shop vac is a great idea but you absolutely need a dust mask or respirator-filter-mask thing for MDF.
Hi Bob. I also recently found your channel. Loving every minute of it. I am in the process of building a SCAMP sailboat from plans. The cost of shipping the kit from the Pacific Northwest made it cheaper to source the wood semi-locally. The SCAMP is built right side up from mostly plywood. My wife and live in Silvis IL. We were just in Peoria last weekend visiting my niece. My building is pretty much finished for the winter, as I don’t have a heated workspace. I am binge watching you videos at moment.
This is the best video I've seen on making the strongback. There are a lot of pictures out there of completed ones, but your showing of the process is great.
Beautful work. I am looking to get a sailboat in need of repair /project and your videos are very detailed and clear regarding the work and logic. Thank you
Hi Bob, I’ve just found your channel, I’m an ex builder and I’ve always wanted to build a boat, something with curves, the way you set out the frames was so interesting and simple. Can’t wait to see the following videos. Brian from New Zealand.
Bob, really love watching you do this. Funny, some friends of mine and I were thinking of building the exact boat. Love you attention to detail and the amount of information you have put into this.
My very thought just before you said it was: This is getting exciting. I have done a lot of watching and reading on boat building in the last 3 years or more and I am restoring a 13 ft fibreglass boat with the ultimate goal of building one from scratch. I am sure this series will add to my knowledge. I take it you have seen Chuck Jenkins' build.
You are doing a great job with telling us what, why and how you are building the boat. Looking forward to the next video. Was wondering if you had plans to raise the strong back off the floor to save your back?
Wow, really love your style, and I might add that you are very good at wood working. I built a cedar strip canoe in similar fashion years ago. I'm now interested in building a wood sail boat or a wood power yaht. My wife and I want live on a boat and do some cruising. We haven't decided on all the details yet, but two things I'm sure about, I want a wood boat, and being a wood worker/carpenter, I wanna build said boat. So at this point I'm just absorbing any info I can on building wood boats. I have no boat building experience, save for the canoe I built some 20 years ago. You sir are an inspiration. Thank you.
Hi Bob. Your latest video popped up in my recommendations, so I'm going back to the beginning... Watching you discuss using the ply ribbands reminded me of when I built my ply over sawn frame Wittholz runabout (on YT). I discovered something no one had mentioned in the numerous videos I'd watched on building similar boats. That ply, in sheet form, does not like bending around frames in a fair manner. It bends tighter around the frame, then flattens out some in between. Result? Lots and lots of epoxy/compound fairing work needed after you finish the hull! My next boat will not be ply over frames! : ) Of course it's different story in your case with the narrow ribbands... Great work, and excellent videos. Thanks!
Good plywood that does not have voids will fair properly. All Chesapeake Light Craft kits are plywood. Glen L designs have been around for over 60 years all are designed to use plywood. You are right ribbands are narrow and as you know won't be apart of the finished hull. Thanks Robin, I'm glad you are enjoying the video.
Hi Bob. The issue here is actually not the ply, but the “over frames” aspect. I used good quality 1088 Okoume Marine ply and I never found any voids or imperfections, somewhat to my surprise. Actually I think ply is underrated. Used in conjunction with modern epoxy it makes a good composite building material. I expect my little runabout will be around for some time. The hull and decks are fibreglassed and everything else was epoxy encapsulated, before painting. When you consider the physics of bending a flat stiff relatively thin material, that desperately wants to stay flat, around several spread out points, it’s not surprising you get exactly what I did. High spots interspersed with flatter areas that need a lot of fairing work. Hindsight’s a wonderful thing... Chesapeake like many modern designers employ the stitch and glue method which means no bending around frames and hence none of the issues I encountered. Definitely the way I would go if I was building another ply boat. Mine was designed in 1976, and it looks great and is strong, but I wouldn’t go ply over frames again. However I’m pleased to say I get the odd person coming up and asking what brand my boat is - they think it came out of a mold. But achieving that level of finish required way too much filling, sanding and batten work for a 14’6” boat. Live and learn aye. Looking forward to you next video. Cheers.
Hi Bob , You are doing an excellent job and are a very good teacher. I have subscribed and am absorbing a great deal of knowledge and techniques . I am hesitant to criticise...but for me , I would need the strong back/ building jig raised 2’ due to my old knees and back.
Thanks Andrew! I'm happy you are enjoying the content. I sure understand that you'd raise the strongback. However, I'm happy with the height as, most of the work (80%) has be done standing. If it had been 2' higher the keel would be impossible to reach without ladder or scaffolding. The first boat I build was a small dingy (10') and I did have it on 18" sawhorses which worked out fine. Each boat requires different setup and the great thing about boat building you can do what suits you. Thanks for watching and your support by subscribing. Cheers, Bob
Hey Bob! Nice new video! Smart move on positioning the cleats before setting up the molds. We didn't, so we had to drill them in place later, and since we used all 22 molds, that was a nightmare. Thank you also for the tip on plywood battens, I'll remember that one! Are you really going to bend half the frames on rib-bands that are not supported by molds? I can't wait to see the next episode, and I hope you'll get help for bending the frames. An extra set of hands was... well, "handy", when we got there! Same if you want to set up almost-5-meters-long-rib-bands on your own... unless you've already figured out a nice and clever solution. Thank you again for making such good videos!
Great detailed videos, I am planning on working on my first boat build (a Tammie Norrie lapstrake with marine plywood, by Iain Oughtred) but eventually want to make the Haven 12 1/2 with steam bending. I'm wondering if you found the strong back on the floor to be a challenge, I've usually seen them raised up a bit. Look forward to following along, if a bit late to the series.
Thanks for the video! Learning about this process is very interesting. After you used the playwood to trace the shape of the first station onto the MDF, did you have to cut the plywood to get the shape of the second station, and so on? Tks again.
Hey Bob, I love this episode. Probably one of the most important steps, if not the most, and you made it really simple. I've been catching up with this construction, and here I have a question couple of questions: How did you mirror the frames? Why not cut a double layer of MDF? Wouldn't that have assured that it is mostly symmetric?
Hi Carlos, Yes, that is what I did, mirror the frames. It was also the most economical use of the MDF material by splitting them in half. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding I so totally have tool-envy watching these episodes, Bob. Your whole shop is as gorgeous as your boat work! I drool over your shop (and even heated in the winter!)
Hello again. Seeing this strong back come together was very encouraging! At 13:30 you present the plywood batten for fairing shapes. Is that of MARINE grade, or if not, what grade please. I am going to watch this series with utmost attention! It's like being at a boatbuilder school!
Bob, I really like the setup you are using. Would you publish a list of the number of sheets of MDF, epoxy, etc. that you have used for the ladder frame and molds up to this point. It would be helpful for those of us planning on building a similar size of boat if not the same boat. Thank you very much.
Thanks a lot for your videos. I write to you from Paris, France, so excuse my English, I'll do my best. I do not understand : it seems to me that between ep. 3 to ep 4 , you don't show how you build the frames, the squeleton of the boat. So it is impossible to follow your indications and advices for the further construction. I searched all over the list of the videos, but I didn't find this fundamental step. Did you make a video about it ??? Thank you very much. Emmanuel, also sculptor, Paris, France
noticed you used epoxy as a primer, is there any reason I can not use epoxy as a primer under bilge paint, - I have a Haven 12 1/2 that needs a little work mainily cosmetic and was thinking of epoxy as a primer where the bilge is back to bear wood thanks - this is a great channel
I would use an epoxy primer like www.totalboat.com/collections/marine-paint-primers/products/totalprotect-epoxy-barrier-coat-primer Then bilge paint. www.totalboat.com/products/totalbilge-epoxy-bilge-paint You can use any brand if they are comparable products. I feel it is a best practices to use produces design for the purpose you are needing them for. I don't recommend using straight epoxy for this application. Thanks for watching. Cheers, Bob
Bob, the video is very well done. Thanks for that. I have been thinking about building John Brooks' Somes Sound 12 1/2. My problem is I have about 1/2 of a double car garage to work in. Do you think the strong back could be put on casters to move around the shop? I would use small screw jacks in the corners to lock it in place when working on the boat.
You would have plenty of room. Yes, you could put it on caster, however I wouldn't move it until I had the hull planking finished. I just meet a couple of guys that build a Somes Sound 12.5 at the boat show. One good thing about the SS12.5 is the planks go directly on the mold frames. There is no steam bending involved. Their boat is in the new video I posted about the wooden boat show. Good luck with your Somes Sound!
Hey, Bob, great series. I have a question about making that strongback. Lots of us don't have a flat floor or any other flat surface to act as a reference when building that strongback, nor any lumber that is straight on the edge (nor can be reasonably straightened with a jointer). Do you have any advice on how to build such a strongback with inferior lumber and no flat floor so that the strongback would still end up perfectly flat (not curved or twisted) on the top surface?
Hi Justinas, Thanks! My floor is not perfectly flat. I needed to shim it slightly to get the strongback flat. I really don't have any suggestions on how to use inferior lumber. If you can't get quality lumber it's going to be nearly impossible to build a quality boat. Is plywood available to you? Good plywood is generally straight and true. One could rip down plywood to build a reasonably straight strongback. I used plywood for my ribbands in S2-E5 th-cam.com/video/DxX04c5Ou2c/w-d-xo.html as this was the best way to get true and straight strips of 1/2" lumber. I hope that helps. Thanks for your comment and question. And thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
Hi Bob, Can i ask if you considered using carbon paper to trace the lines? I am thinking is would be faster and more accurate. Can you see a problem with this method. I am thinking of taping the carbon paper to the end of a long ruler to move it with my line. PS, great work mate from Australia
I have see the use of carbon paper used for that purpose. I think your idea should work fine. I like the awl punch method, suits me well. If you have carbon paper (I do not)you should give it a go! Thanks for watching! Cheers Mate
Hi Clark, I may have not talked about it. However, at 9:30 I show my leveling the strong back. The floor is fairly level I did have to put some small wedges in several spot. Thank for watching!
Hello, I am enjoying the video. I am asking this before finishing the video because I don't believe the video was pointing toward this topic. How do you plan to reconcile the MDF moisture and humidity issue? Also, is the added weight due to the density of the material going to throw the waterline off? I plan to build my first small craft one day soon and these are problems I would like to solve for myself. Thank you for any insight, and thanks for making the series!
My project is making a wooden boat : Le " MESKER ". Architect : François Vivier. I downloaded the plans. (only 5 sheets...) and it's very very difficult to understand and interpret a plan when you're a neophyte. Other enormous problem : in France, as you know, everything is ruled by this awful administration. So, if you want to sail with your own constructed boat, you MUST SUBMIT the plan, every measure, add photos for each step of construction to the administration. So, in case of drawing mistake or measure or inappropriate little piece of wood, it's impossible to get the registration.
Hi Emmanuel, I feel your frustration. The Haven came with a 6 sheet page plan. I have used a book to help me along the way. You may have seen me reference it in some of the videos. It's by Greg Rossel www.woodenboatstore.com/products/building-small-boats You may be aware that François Vivier wrote a book on boat construction. Here a link boutique.blb-bois.com/produit/construire-son-bateau-en-bois Site is in French so you'd know better than me if this will be helpful. I hope so! If I can help in any way please feel free to ask me any questions you might have. Best wishes on you build. Cheer, Bob
I love your videos - do you have any recommendations on a first boat built? I'm fairly confident with woodworking, but I would love a smaller build for my first before taking on something large like the Haven 12 1/2. Thanks!
Hi Scott, I think the most important choice in a boat is one you like. Either its design or purpose. Then I'd choose a boat that did not need lofting, that is a skill in and of itself. Kits are great and most of the time their cost is equal to the materials needed. I started with a stitch and glue boat from Chesapeake Light Craft www.clcboats.com. If you're looking for a simple cut your own I'd think a skiff is a good choice. Wooden Boat has lots of great plans www.woodenboat.com/boat-plans-kits/fast-skiff-12. Happy hunting let me know what you decided.
Why not drop a brace across the moulds that are level fore to aft? Then you could run a center board through the boat and fix the plum of each mould to a center board to make the entire mould more rigid. Just a thought.
I have been watching your videos non stop for the four hours I think, I am from India and Mumbai in India. I think what you are doing is really good. I hope I will be able to make this sometime. I really want to do it. I will need to invest on the the fantastic array of tools that you have. Are you doing this commercially? If you do respond we can communicate. No promises but I would very much like to communicate. regards Col Thomas Cherian Mathew (Retd)
Great fun to watch. I am curious, however... your choice of plywood, even high quality plywood, for ribands seems unusual. I've not seen that done before, though I'm hardly an expert.
I'm no expert either, but I think those "ribands" will be temporary until he installs his steam-bent permanent frames to replace the molds and then he will put on his actual side boards.............I think ?? LOL
@@robroiboi Yes, sir, they're temporary... but I'm surprised that they are stiff enough to steam bend frames over. I expect them to deflect too much. (About half the grain in a piece of plywood is pointing 90 degrees from the rest of the grain.)
Да, вы можете приобрести чертежи в магазине деревянных лодок. Вот ссылка: www.woodenboatstore.com/products/16-haven-12-1-2-класс Ваше здоровье, Боб Yes, You can purchase the plans from the Wooden Boat Store. Here's a link: www.woodenboatstore.com/products/16-haven-12-1-2-class Cheers, Bob
It is all most like when the tree hits the ground, it breaks into a stack of 2x4’s and they take it directly to the lumber yard. Good lumber is hard to find. Treated lumber that is sold today is even worse
Getting the molds made and assembling them on the strongback really gets you a feel of the lines of the boat. Great episode Bob and excellent commentary on the process. Thanks for sharing.
desde Austria,. veo sus videos y me han servido para prepararme y construir mi bote. Realmente con mucha humildad tecnica y pedagogia....lo Felicito...🥃
Never get tired watching all of Bob's videos. He is so professional.Well done.
I, too, started watching your videos after your visit to Arabella was published. I appreciate the effort you've made to not just document, but teach how and why you are doing the individual steps. Thanks!
Kudos on your teaching skills. I love wood work and find it very therapeutic and satisfying to massage an idea into reality; the whole time exercising order and attention to detail (OCD). Well, I have to get on to the next video. I enjoy the process....
Instant subscribe! I watched one of your videos, and that was enough to get me. That rarely happens.
I've been puttibg off starting season 2 until I had time to binge watch. I very much enjoy the presentation and production values here.
I am truly enjoying your teaching style. Look forward to each installment. Thank you.
I have just purchased the plans of the Haven, and was a bit unsure where to start. I am so grateful to see what to do.
This will be my second boat build, the last was the 7.7 Nut Shell Pram, sailing version. It it was a challenge, but it floats!
I like the style of your presentation, as you take the time to explain what you are doing.
Thank you so much, and I look forward to watching the rest of your videos.
My pleasure Ian. Best wishes on your Haven build. If you have any questions feel free to Direct Message me.
Cheers!
Just discovered your channel. Looking forward to following your progress.
Welcome aboard!
pure joy! you are good therapy. thanks for all you do. master craftsmanship is evident and well respected. binge watching.....
I am so glad I found this channel. What a great wealth of information presented in a clean and tidy manner. It's also just very calming to watch.
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoy it!
Hello Bob, I congratulate you on your work and your ability to teach everything you do, thank you very much really, you are very useful for all of us who love to build things. Greetings from Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Many thanks!
Thank you for such a methodical tour of the build. Exquisite shop and you have a motivational tone for one to get started.
Thank you I appreciate your kind comment!
very inspiring. building a wooden boat is up there on my list of things to do.
Many thanks Bob your videos are most informative and nicely crafted. I appreciate your efforts very much. Cheers from Brisbane Australia.
Glad you like them!
Thank you so much for the quality of your videos. Your skill as a pedagogue should make you start offering courses for all those who want to share the know-how in boatbuilding. When are you starting? Soon I hope.
I will be the first one to enroll, Denis, France
Hi Denis,
The short answer is I have started a course about a year and a half ago. Boat Building Bootcamp is a comprehensive online course that covers all the basic boat building terms and procedures. In addition to a library of resources (videos and books) I hold a live boat building clinic one a week online. If you like to learn more I would like to invite you to schedule a 30 call with me where I can tell you more and answer any of your questions.
You can schedule a call at this link: calendly.com/artofboatbuilding/boat-building
I hope to hear from you soon.
Cheers,
Bob
Great videos. Your commentary is in depth without waffeling on and on. Shows great methodology behind the approach at a good pace. Thanks for taking the time with these.
One thing, please please wear at least a good dust mask whenever you are working with MDF. Those particles are nasty. The shop vac is a great idea but you absolutely need a dust mask or respirator-filter-mask thing for MDF.
bob ,I am truly enjoying videos,and your style of explaining things,keep up the great work..paul
Hi Bob. I also recently found your channel. Loving every minute of it. I am in the process of building a SCAMP sailboat from plans. The cost of shipping the kit from the Pacific Northwest made it cheaper to source the wood semi-locally. The SCAMP is built right side up from mostly plywood. My wife and live in Silvis IL. We were just in Peoria last weekend visiting my niece. My building is pretty much finished for the winter, as I don’t have a heated workspace. I am binge watching you videos at moment.
This is the best video I've seen on making the strongback. There are a lot of pictures out there of completed ones, but your showing of the process is great.
Absolutely awesome, I can’t wait to built my own boat.
amazing detail, you've done such a nice job of showing the final result of each video so we know where your headed!
Beautful work. I am looking to get a sailboat in need of repair /project and your videos are very detailed and clear regarding the work and logic. Thank you
Great work. I am learning so much watching your methodical way of working.
hey Bob, great video and series. Im excited to see where it goes!
Mesmerizing!! I can't stop watching. Great work, great project!!
So cool seeing it take shape! The videos are informative and well produced! Great work bob!
Hi Bob, I’ve just found your channel, I’m an ex builder and I’ve always wanted to build a boat, something with curves, the way you set out the frames was so interesting and simple. Can’t wait to see the following videos. Brian from New Zealand.
Bob, really love watching you do this. Funny, some friends of mine and I were thinking of building the exact boat. Love you attention to detail and the amount of information you have put into this.
Bob, This is so exciting to see the boat being built.
you deserve more subscribers. oh look! you just got one!
Wow, thanks!
Great job Bob
You are a genius!!! (I met you at Mystic. A pleasure)
You should write a book on boatbuilding. You make it look easy!
Thank you!
My very thought just before you said it was: This is getting exciting. I have done a lot of watching and reading on boat building in the last 3 years or more and I am restoring a 13 ft fibreglass boat with the ultimate goal of building one from scratch. I am sure this series will add to my knowledge. I take it you have seen Chuck Jenkins' build.
Excellent work sir.
excellent work!
Sir you are great. God bless you
Thanks!
Awesome build learning a lot
I really appreciate the detail. Thank you!
I'm looking forward to the next video.
Superb, I am hooked!
Such a pleasing hull shape
You are doing a great job with telling us what, why and how you are building the boat. Looking forward to the next video. Was wondering if you had plans to raise the strong back off the floor to save your back?
OUI merci beaucoup Monsieur. Je vous souhaite une très bonne année 2021... without covid
👍
this is great channel
Wow, really love your style, and I might add that you are very good at wood working. I built a cedar strip canoe in similar fashion years ago. I'm now interested in building a wood sail boat or a wood power yaht. My wife and I want live on a boat and do some cruising. We haven't decided on all the details yet, but two things I'm sure about, I want a wood boat, and being a wood worker/carpenter, I wanna build said boat. So at this point I'm just absorbing any info I can on building wood boats. I have no boat building experience, save for the canoe I built some 20 years ago. You sir are an inspiration. Thank you.
The set up makes sense.
Thank you once again sir. Really inspiring
My pleasure!
Good one sir💖
Hi Bob. Your latest video popped up in my recommendations, so I'm going back to the beginning... Watching you discuss using the ply ribbands reminded me of when I built my ply over sawn frame Wittholz runabout (on YT). I discovered something no one had mentioned in the numerous videos I'd watched on building similar boats. That ply, in sheet form, does not like bending around frames in a fair manner. It bends tighter around the frame, then flattens out some in between. Result? Lots and lots of epoxy/compound fairing work needed after you finish the hull! My next boat will not be ply over frames! : ) Of course it's different story in your case with the narrow ribbands... Great work, and excellent videos. Thanks!
Good plywood that does not have voids will fair properly. All Chesapeake Light Craft kits are plywood. Glen L designs have been around for over 60 years all are designed to use plywood. You are right ribbands are narrow and as you know won't be apart of the finished hull. Thanks Robin, I'm glad you are enjoying the video.
Hi Bob. The issue here is actually not the ply, but the “over frames” aspect. I used good quality 1088 Okoume Marine ply and I never found any voids or imperfections, somewhat to my surprise. Actually I think ply is underrated. Used in conjunction with modern epoxy it makes a good composite building material. I expect my little runabout will be around for some time. The hull and decks are fibreglassed and everything else was epoxy encapsulated, before painting.
When you consider the physics of bending a flat stiff relatively thin material, that desperately wants to stay flat, around several spread out points, it’s not surprising you get exactly what I did. High spots interspersed with flatter areas that need a lot of fairing work. Hindsight’s a wonderful thing...
Chesapeake like many modern designers employ the stitch and glue method which means no bending around frames and hence none of the issues I encountered. Definitely the way I would go if I was building another ply boat. Mine was designed in 1976, and it looks great and is strong, but I wouldn’t go ply over frames again.
However I’m pleased to say I get the odd person coming up and asking what brand my boat is - they think it came out of a mold. But achieving that level of finish required way too much filling, sanding and batten work for a 14’6” boat. Live and learn aye. Looking forward to you next video. Cheers.
Hi Bob , You are doing an excellent job and are a very good teacher. I have subscribed and am absorbing a great deal of knowledge and techniques . I am hesitant to criticise...but for me , I would need the strong back/ building jig raised 2’ due to my old knees and back.
Thanks Andrew! I'm happy you are enjoying the content. I sure understand that you'd raise the strongback. However, I'm happy with the height as, most of the work (80%) has be done standing. If it had been 2' higher the keel would be impossible to reach without ladder or scaffolding. The first boat I build was a small dingy (10') and I did have it on 18" sawhorses which worked out fine. Each boat requires different setup and the great thing about boat building you can do what suits you.
Thanks for watching and your support by subscribing.
Cheers,
Bob
I have just found this. Al in all very informative. Sadly though it has only 1.1K likes and less than 30K views.
Great video your passion is present
Hey Bob! Nice new video! Smart move on positioning the cleats before setting up the molds. We didn't, so we had to drill them in place later, and since we used all 22 molds, that was a nightmare. Thank you also for the tip on plywood battens, I'll remember that one! Are you really going to bend half the frames on rib-bands that are not supported by molds? I can't wait to see the next episode, and I hope you'll get help for bending the frames. An extra set of hands was... well, "handy", when we got there! Same if you want to set up almost-5-meters-long-rib-bands on your own... unless you've already figured out a nice and clever solution. Thank you again for making such good videos!
Thanks for sharing
Hi Bob! Your videos are great. Congratulations again.
On the link of Gregg Roselle, I have the impression that it is not inserted.
Thanks Marcos, Yes, I forgot the link I have added it now.
Great detailed videos, I am planning on working on my first boat build (a Tammie Norrie lapstrake with marine plywood, by Iain Oughtred) but eventually want to make the Haven 12 1/2 with steam bending. I'm wondering if you found the strong back on the floor to be a challenge, I've usually seen them raised up a bit. Look forward to following along, if a bit late to the series.
Thanks for the video! Learning about this process is very interesting. After you used the playwood to trace the shape of the first station onto the MDF, did you have to cut the plywood to get the shape of the second station, and so on? Tks again.
Hey Bob, I love this episode. Probably one of the most important steps, if not the most, and you made it really simple. I've been catching up with this construction, and here I have a question couple of questions: How did you mirror the frames? Why not cut a double layer of MDF? Wouldn't that have assured that it is mostly symmetric?
Hi Carlos, Yes, that is what I did, mirror the frames. It was also the most economical use of the MDF material by splitting them in half.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
Oh.. OK, I did find it ! thanks !
Glad you found it!
À votre santé
The Jet bandsaw got an upgrade! :-)
In boat building you always need a bigger bandsaw! LOL
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding I so totally have tool-envy watching these episodes, Bob. Your whole shop is as gorgeous as your boat work! I drool over your shop (and even heated in the winter!)
Hello again. Seeing this strong back come together was very encouraging! At 13:30 you present the plywood batten for fairing shapes. Is that of MARINE grade, or if not, what grade please. I am going to watch this series with utmost attention! It's like being at a boatbuilder school!
It's solid core birch plywood (cabinet grade) it is not marine plywood as it will not be a part of the final boat.
Thanks for watching!!
Excellent! I really like it, I've always had the idea of building a boat ! 🚣 👍🏻🚣♂️👋🏻 🚣♀️ 👏👏👏
Hi,(roly)...it looks as if you have half built a boat with all of the mould work.great video,s.
Hello. Great videos. Maybe you said and I didn't catch it. How many sheets of MDF did you use?
Bob, I really like the setup you are using. Would you publish a list of the number of sheets of MDF, epoxy, etc. that you have used for the ladder frame and molds up to this point. It would be helpful for those of us planning on building a similar size of boat if not the same boat. Thank you very much.
I used 3 sheets of 3/4" MDF
6 - 8' 2x4"
2 - 12' 2x6"
8 - 8' 2x6"
2 - 8' 1x8"
Hope that helps
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thank you for the information. Very helpful and much appreciated. Have a great day.
It,s great bob!
Thanks a lot for your videos. I write to you from Paris, France, so excuse my English, I'll do my best. I do not understand : it seems to me that between ep. 3 to ep 4 , you don't show how you build the frames, the squeleton of the boat. So it is impossible to follow your indications and advices for the further construction. I searched all over the list of the videos, but I didn't find this fundamental step. Did you make a video about it ??? Thank you very much. Emmanuel, also sculptor, Paris, France
noticed you used epoxy as a primer, is there any reason I can not use epoxy as a primer under bilge paint, - I have a Haven 12 1/2 that needs a little work mainily cosmetic and was thinking of epoxy as a primer where the bilge is back to bear wood
thanks - this is a great channel
I would use an epoxy primer like www.totalboat.com/collections/marine-paint-primers/products/totalprotect-epoxy-barrier-coat-primer
Then bilge paint. www.totalboat.com/products/totalbilge-epoxy-bilge-paint
You can use any brand if they are comparable products.
I feel it is a best practices to use produces design for the purpose you are needing them for.
I don't recommend using straight epoxy for this application.
Thanks for watching.
Cheers,
Bob
Hi Bob. Do you remember how many sheets of MDF you used?
I think I purchased 3 4' x8' sheets. Only used part of the 3rd sheet.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding thanks
Bob, the video is very well done. Thanks for that. I have been thinking about building John Brooks' Somes Sound 12 1/2. My problem is I have about 1/2 of a double car garage to work in. Do you think the strong back could be put on casters to move around the shop? I would use small screw jacks in the corners to lock it in place when working on the boat.
You would have plenty of room. Yes, you could put it on caster, however I wouldn't move it until I had the hull planking finished. I just meet a couple of guys that build a Somes Sound 12.5 at the boat show. One good thing about the SS12.5 is the planks go directly on the mold frames. There is no steam bending involved. Their boat is in the new video I posted about the wooden boat show. Good luck with your Somes Sound!
Hey, Bob, great series. I have a question about making that strongback. Lots of us don't have a flat floor or any other flat surface to act as a reference when building that strongback, nor any lumber that is straight on the edge (nor can be reasonably straightened with a jointer). Do you have any advice on how to build such a strongback with inferior lumber and no flat floor so that the strongback would still end up perfectly flat (not curved or twisted) on the top surface?
Hi Justinas,
Thanks! My floor is not perfectly flat. I needed to shim it slightly to get the strongback flat. I really don't have any suggestions on how to use inferior lumber. If you can't get quality lumber it's going to be nearly impossible to build a quality boat. Is plywood available to you? Good plywood is generally straight and true. One could rip down plywood to build a reasonably straight strongback. I used plywood for my ribbands in S2-E5 th-cam.com/video/DxX04c5Ou2c/w-d-xo.html as this was the best way to get true and straight strips of 1/2" lumber.
I hope that helps. Thanks for your comment and question. And thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
Thanks for all the fine detail that you are giving us.You would have to do a lot of studying to get that much info before you make any saw dust.
I'm curious - would a half-lap joint be as strong as a scarfed joint? They must not be, as I've never seen them mentioned.
Great job.
you picked a great design to build, though not the easiest
Hi Bob, Can i ask if you considered using carbon paper to trace the lines? I am thinking is would be faster and more accurate. Can you see a problem with this method. I am thinking of taping the carbon paper to the end of a long ruler to move it with my line.
PS, great work mate from Australia
I have see the use of carbon paper used for that purpose. I think your idea should work fine. I like the awl punch method, suits me well. If you have carbon paper (I do not)you should give it a go!
Thanks for watching!
Cheers Mate
Noticed in rewatching this video that you didn't mention anything about leveling the strongback. Is this area of your floor completely level?
Hi Clark, I may have not talked about it. However, at 9:30 I show my leveling the strong back. The floor is fairly level I did have to put some small wedges in several spot.
Thank for watching!
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding
Oh, yes. How did I miss that? My bad - sorry.
What have you budgeted for the total cost of constructing the Haven?
Hello, I am enjoying the video. I am asking this before finishing the video because I don't believe the video was pointing toward this topic. How do you plan to reconcile the MDF moisture and humidity issue? Also, is the added weight due to the density of the material going to throw the waterline off? I plan to build my first small craft one day soon and these are problems I would like to solve for myself. Thank you for any insight, and thanks for making the series!
The MDF is not apart of the finished boat. It is only for the mold, which is temporary.
Réally Nice vidéo.
My project is making a wooden boat : Le " MESKER ". Architect : François Vivier. I downloaded the plans. (only 5 sheets...) and it's very very difficult to understand and interpret a plan when you're a neophyte. Other enormous problem : in France, as you know, everything is ruled by this awful administration. So, if you want to sail with your own constructed boat, you MUST SUBMIT the plan, every measure, add photos for each step of construction to the administration. So, in case of drawing mistake or measure or inappropriate little piece of wood, it's impossible to get the registration.
Hi Emmanuel,
I feel your frustration. The Haven came with a 6 sheet page plan. I have used a book to help me along the way. You may have seen me reference it in some of the videos. It's by Greg Rossel www.woodenboatstore.com/products/building-small-boats
You may be aware that François Vivier wrote a book on boat construction. Here a link
boutique.blb-bois.com/produit/construire-son-bateau-en-bois
Site is in French so you'd know better than me if this will be helpful. I hope so!
If I can help in any way please feel free to ask me any questions you might have.
Best wishes on you build.
Cheer,
Bob
👍👍🙂
I love your videos - do you have any recommendations on a first boat built? I'm fairly confident with woodworking, but I would love a smaller build for my first before taking on something large like the Haven 12 1/2. Thanks!
Hi Scott,
I think the most important choice in a boat is one you like. Either its design or purpose. Then I'd choose a boat that did not need lofting, that is a skill in and of itself. Kits are great and most of the time their cost is equal to the materials needed. I started with a stitch and glue boat from Chesapeake Light Craft www.clcboats.com. If you're looking for a simple cut your own I'd think a skiff is a good choice. Wooden Boat has lots of great plans www.woodenboat.com/boat-plans-kits/fast-skiff-12.
Happy hunting let me know what you decided.
your amazing, hope tp meet you one day.
Why didn’t you add a couple of cross members or gusset to keep the “floor” from racking?
Why not drop a brace across the moulds that are level fore to aft? Then you could run a center board through the boat and fix the plum of each mould to a center board to make the entire mould more rigid.
Just a thought.
In episode 5 I add bracing. The ribband also aid in keeping them level and plumb.
I have been watching your videos non stop for the four hours I think, I am from India and Mumbai in India. I think what you are doing is really good. I hope I will be able to make this sometime. I really want to do it. I will need to invest on the the fantastic array of tools that you have. Are you doing this commercially? If you do respond we can communicate. No promises but I would very much like to communicate. regards Col Thomas Cherian Mathew (Retd)
Hi Thomas, No, I don't build boats for others. Just sharing my passion for boat building.
Thanks for watching.
Cheers,
Great fun to watch. I am curious, however... your choice of plywood, even high quality plywood, for ribands seems unusual. I've not seen that done before, though I'm hardly an expert.
I'm no expert either, but I think those "ribands" will be temporary until he installs his steam-bent permanent frames to replace the molds and then he will put on his actual side boards.............I think ?? LOL
@@robroiboi Yes, sir, they're temporary... but I'm surprised that they are stiff enough to steam bend frames over. I expect them to deflect too much. (About half the grain in a piece of plywood is pointing 90 degrees from the rest of the grain.)
Neat
Чертежи такой замечательной лодки можно получить?
Да, вы можете приобрести чертежи в магазине деревянных лодок. Вот ссылка:
www.woodenboatstore.com/products/16-haven-12-1-2-класс
Ваше здоровье,
Боб
Yes, You can purchase the plans from the Wooden Boat Store. Here's a link:
www.woodenboatstore.com/products/16-haven-12-1-2-class
Cheers,
Bob
It is all most like when the tree hits the ground, it breaks into a stack of 2x4’s and they take it directly to the lumber yard. Good lumber is hard to find. Treated lumber that is sold today is even worse
Oh dear God, are you seriously going to build this on the floor? Oh my aching knees and back!!!
You are a genius!!! (I met you at Mystic. A pleasure)