Joules do not apply to surge protection; you do not want a surge protector to absorb energy - you want it to direct it to a safe ground. Ideally, you want a surge protection device that absorbs 0 joules and directs the entirety of the surge event to ground. From the NEMA Surge Institute on the web: (www.nemasurge.org/faqs/#general) While conceptually an surge protective device (SPD) with a larger energy rating will be better,comparing SPD energy (Joule) ratings can be misleading. More reputable manufactures no longer provide energy ratings. The energy rating is the sum of surge current, surge duration, and SPD clamping voltage. In comparing two products, the lower rated device would be better if this was as a result of a lower clamping voltage, while the large energy device would be preferable if this was as a result of a larger surge current being used. There is no clear standard for SPD energy measurement, and manufacturers have been known to use long tail pulses to provide larger results. Additionally confusing this issue is the possibility that the rating is just the energy absorbed, diverted, or the sum of both. NEMA LS 1 by specific omission does not recommend the comparison of SPD’s energy ratings. Comparison of single shot surge ratings and let-through voltages is considered sufficient.
Joule rating is not a measure of effective surge protection. They all use the same MOVs. The manufacturers add the ratings to get a Joule rating. Its like saying my car has 200,000 mile tires because each tire is 50,000 mile.
This was helpful. As will all monoprice videos I have seen so far, I wish the opening 15 seconds of fanfare could be cut down to just 2-3 seconds of disclaimer. I can rock out on my own time.
These are considered "point-of-use" surge protectors. If you want something protected you have to plug that item into one of these bars. If you want more peace of mind, install a whole home surge protector right at the main fuse panel. That way everything in your home is protected. I would still add point-of-use protectors for delicate electrical items like computers and home audio/visual gear (layered protection). Whole home surge protectors are relatively affordable ($50-$100 for most models).
Joules do not apply to surge protection; you do not want a surge protector to absorb energy - you want it to direct it to a safe ground. Ideally, you want a surge protection device that absorbs 0 joules and directs the entirety of the surge event to ground.
From the NEMA Surge Institute on the web:
(www.nemasurge.org/faqs/#general)
While conceptually an surge protective device (SPD) with a larger energy rating will be better,comparing SPD energy (Joule) ratings can be misleading. More reputable manufactures no longer provide energy ratings. The energy rating is the sum of surge current, surge duration, and SPD clamping voltage.
In comparing two products, the lower rated device would be better if this was as a result of a lower clamping voltage, while the large energy device would be preferable if this was as a result of a larger surge current being used. There is no clear standard for SPD energy measurement, and manufacturers have been known to use long tail pulses to provide larger results.
Additionally confusing this issue is the possibility that the rating is just the energy absorbed, diverted, or the sum of both. NEMA LS 1 by specific omission does not recommend the comparison of SPD’s energy ratings. Comparison of single shot surge ratings and let-through voltages is considered sufficient.
Joule rating is not a measure of effective surge protection. They all use the same MOVs. The manufacturers add the ratings to get a Joule rating. Its like saying my car has 200,000 mile tires because each tire is 50,000 mile.
What kind of power strip would I need if I was trying to power a Delorian Time Machine and also needed to charge my iPod?
Awesome! I'm going to use two 7987 on my computer setup. I also love the short 2ft extension cords for the cables that aren't quite long enough.
This was helpful. As will all monoprice videos I have seen so far, I wish the opening 15 seconds of fanfare could be cut down to just 2-3 seconds of disclaimer. I can rock out on my own time.
These are considered "point-of-use" surge protectors. If you want something protected you have to plug that item into one of these bars. If you want more peace of mind, install a whole home surge protector right at the main fuse panel. That way everything in your home is protected. I would still add point-of-use protectors for delicate electrical items like computers and home audio/visual gear (layered protection). Whole home surge protectors are relatively affordable ($50-$100 for most models).
great video. I'm looking forward to part 2. thumbs up.
What if I need one able to withstand 1.21 gigawatts? ;-P
was he reading a script
How many joules should My power strip have if I'm running 3 Monitors with a enthusiast PC system?
What would you recommend for a computer that has a 650 watt power supply