I rebuild old throw aways. Usually costs less than one hundred dollars. I have several gravel, mountain, touring, town bikes. New bikes are amazing but they simply aren't affordable to me. And, at 76, I'm still able to stay with all the other bikee's out there on fun rides.
One of the reasons I like your content is that you're not pushing latest-and-greatest. Most of the time, I agree with your recommendations, and when I don't, you have reasoned opinions. I hope something good happens to you today. Be nice, work appropriately, ride bikes, and play music when you can. (If you're gonna work hard, make sure the entity that benefits from your hard work is worth the effort.)
For 30 years, I rode stock, as delivered bikes. My strategy was to take it as-is, then upgrade components as they wear out. It's impressive how long stuff lasts. BTW, none of these were high end. Regarding good hubs, when I bought my Rivendell Atlantis in 2003, I had no idea what components to get so I let Rivendell build it up for loaded touring: triple, wide range cassette. The hubs are XTR rear, 105 front. I used to rack up the miles touring with a load so every year (or 2....) I cleaned & grease the hubs with Phil's grease & pumped Phil's oil thru the freehub until it came out clean. Those are still the hubs on the bike, & I kept track of mileage until 70,000. I have gone thru rims, cassettes, chains, couple of sets of chainrings, all the usual consumables. Good hubs give good reliability.
building my first bike! i found great parts deals on ebay and looking for clearance specials. I ended up buying a brand new GX EAGLE 12 speed derailer and brand new wheelset (dtswiss 350s with notubes rims) using cyclewheelsusa. The rest of the parts are either clearance, sale, or used like my paul klamper disc brakes. I even got my frameset used from proscloset, Tumbleweed Stargazer.
Makes good sense. I’m currently able to return my Kona, Sutra, LTD, due to a slipping seat post. I’m going to purchase a world traveler, Surly ogre I think it’s a perfect quiver killer for Northwest Montana. But I do want the wolf tooth headset out of the gate.
Just checkin on you after the storm. I hope you're doing alright. The pictures and videos have been heartbreaking. I'm in Houston and we've had some rough ones here too. Back to back devastating floods. I know it can be overwhelming, but I hope you're able to find comfort in the strength of your community. Floridians are about as tough and skilled as people are when it comes to dealing with storms and their aftermath. Anyways, I hope you're doing well, let us know you are when you can. And don't be afraid to ask for any help if you need it. People care.
This video is very timely for me as I have started working on my old touring bike. First surprise is that it is a better bike that I remembered! It was the top of the line back in 1991, actually surprised I spent so much on a bike back then. Anyway, what is important is that it has a hand built steel double butted frame: Reynolds 531 and every thing that could have been Shimano is - hubs, gears, breaks etc. Based on your comments, I'm thinking all I need is a new saddle (the old one did not survive the storage), change the cables, they might be OK, but I would not trust them, a new set of tyres and I'm good to go. Thanks.
I found that the more expensive groupset/components are not necessarily more durable. I think the more expensive components reduce weight using lighter weight materials but are not as durable. The small weight savings, for instance, on a fully loaded touring bike would not outweigh the benefits of a slightly heavier component that would probably be more durable in the long run.
Checked in on your facebook account to learn how you're doing in the wake of Ian. Sorry that so many of your neighbours were hit so hard, but glad you've been able to report on your situation.
A couple of things that works for me: 1) I have two Ti bikes, a Jones and a Lynskey. My choice of brakes for both bikes: $19 Tektro Aries. They just work, and don't squeal and crack in half like BB-7's. They use Shimano pads that are easy to replace, too. 2) Get a Deore rear derailleur, and upgrade the pulleys to ball bearing XT pulleys. 90% of the performance of XT, for about a $40-50 savings. 3) Cane Creek 40 headsets are the way to go. Best thing is that individual parts for the headsets are available.
Makes perfect sense. I bought a very basic hybrid bike by western standards. Just changing the tyres to Maxxis Overdrive Excel, changed it to a fantastic ride! Saving up to change the rims. Great channel. Fan from India.
Nice that you didn’t totally nuke the sponsorship bridge by suggesting going to them (Chris King, White Industries et al) once one has established a “good ride”.🤣. Another great show. Thanks.
Your spot on with your video. My hubby was talked out of a Chris King headset when his Surly Cross Check was built by the local bike store (England) . But I know it's on his wish list! bye the way which Surly was you building? . Stay Safe love from England xx
3:39 a new shimano un BB is $20 in Ausfalia. Even new shimano hollowtech score retail for $40 (25usd) a tiagra hollowtech $16 new retail here. I like shimano hubs but they are free, I've got ten pairs in the shed. The hoops are what matter, the new killer dtswiss are $400pr, or basic dtswiss $60pr from bikeinn. I still don't get the obsession with headsets, no performance gain and way overpriced, way. They all leak water in the bearings, if I run a hose on your stem I can flood your headset and BB in 5 minutes. I've got a lathe so I make custom top hats for existing headsets because every brand on the market sucks. The hat matters, the cups and bearings don't.
We’ve always had to pay more for Shimano in the US and I would hope $20 wouldn’t keep people from patronizing their LBS. I would take an XT hub over nearly anything else and while I would say most companies are using good quality bearings, I would never say that something like a top cap is more important than bearings. Different strokes I guess.
@@ThePsychicDerailleur that water goes into the stem, down the steerer and pools on the "sealed" headset bearings. The rest goes down to the BB. I'd love to build you 5 bikes and get you to guess which had the expensive headset in it. For the BB bearings I believe better brand is key, but the seals are more important. So many reviews from the UK winter killing $100-200 BBS in 6 months.
th-cam.com/video/pfxEWfaNWLk/w-d-xo.html This is what happens if you ride a king etc in real rain. You can see the bearing races aren't stainless either. Loose caged bearings have lots of grease and no seals to trap water in the fork or in the steerer
@@rossanthony7573 E 533 $20usd on bikeinn FR541 are the new indestructible ones $150usd (search yt for the videos on tyreless downhill smashing tests) FR560 are the previous model, same $150
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี : คู่มวยแห่งยุค (11 ตุลาคม 2567)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aTc7-tPYuJM/mqdefault.jpg)
best bike video I have ever seen
I rebuild old throw aways. Usually costs less than one hundred dollars. I have several gravel, mountain, touring, town bikes. New bikes are amazing but they simply aren't affordable to me. And, at 76, I'm still able to stay with all the other bikee's out there on fun rides.
One of the reasons I like your content is that you're not pushing latest-and-greatest. Most of the time, I agree with your recommendations, and when I don't, you have reasoned opinions. I hope something good happens to you today. Be nice, work appropriately, ride bikes, and play music when you can. (If you're gonna work hard, make sure the entity that benefits from your hard work is worth the effort.)
Thanks Jim
Good advice Chris. Build your bike for riding, not for gazing at.
5:48 "This is not rocket surgery" haha, that's such a funny line.
For 30 years, I rode stock, as delivered bikes. My strategy was to take it as-is, then upgrade components as they wear out. It's impressive how long stuff lasts. BTW, none of these were high end.
Regarding good hubs, when I bought my Rivendell Atlantis in 2003, I had no idea what components to get so I let Rivendell build it up for loaded touring: triple, wide range cassette. The hubs are XTR rear, 105 front. I used to rack up the miles touring with a load so every year (or 2....) I cleaned & grease the hubs with Phil's grease & pumped Phil's oil thru the freehub until it came out clean. Those are still the hubs on the bike, & I kept track of mileage until 70,000. I have gone thru rims, cassettes, chains, couple of sets of chainrings, all the usual consumables. Good hubs give good reliability.
Amen
Hey, Chris; hope you're safe. That hurricane looks nasty.
So far, so good. Thanks for your concern.
I always appreciate a good bell.
People with bells are statistically happier people.
Honest advice! Its easy to spend big $ on your build..but spend $ wisely is ART
All good, your buddy with his arm around your shoulders, information!
building my first bike! i found great parts deals on ebay and looking for clearance specials. I ended up buying a brand new GX EAGLE 12 speed derailer and brand new wheelset (dtswiss 350s with notubes rims) using cyclewheelsusa. The rest of the parts are either clearance, sale, or used like my paul klamper disc brakes. I even got my frameset used from proscloset, Tumbleweed Stargazer.
Makes good sense. I’m currently able to return my Kona, Sutra, LTD, due to a slipping seat post. I’m going to purchase a world traveler, Surly ogre I think it’s a perfect quiver killer for Northwest Montana. But I do want the wolf tooth headset out of the gate.
Just checkin on you after the storm. I hope you're doing alright. The pictures and videos have been heartbreaking. I'm in Houston and we've had some rough ones here too. Back to back devastating floods. I know it can be overwhelming, but I hope you're able to find comfort in the strength of your community. Floridians are about as tough and skilled as people are when it comes to dealing with storms and their aftermath. Anyways, I hope you're doing well, let us know you are when you can. And don't be afraid to ask for any help if you need it. People care.
I appreciate that. Thank you. I was very fortunate. No internet
service of yet and cell service that can be wonky at times. Again. Thank you.
Good stuff , the butt to bike interface seems to be where a lot of folks short cut themselves
Seen it a hundred times. They blow all the money on bling and then have to scrimp just to get the thing finished.
This video is very timely for me as I have started working on my old touring bike. First surprise is that it is a better bike that I remembered! It was the top of the line back in 1991, actually surprised I spent so much on a bike back then. Anyway, what is important is that it has a hand built steel double butted frame: Reynolds 531 and every thing that could have been Shimano is - hubs, gears, breaks etc. Based on your comments, I'm thinking all I need is a new saddle (the old one did not survive the storage), change the cables, they might be OK, but I would not trust them, a new set of tyres and I'm good to go. Thanks.
Smart advice as always.
I found that the more expensive groupset/components are not necessarily more durable. I think the more expensive components reduce weight using lighter weight materials but are not as durable. The small weight savings, for instance, on a fully loaded touring bike would not outweigh the benefits of a slightly heavier component that would probably be more durable in the long run.
Checked in on your facebook account to learn how you're doing in the wake of Ian. Sorry that so many of your neighbours were hit so hard, but glad you've been able to report on your situation.
Thank you!
Good 🎉
Toootally agreed.
Great thoughts as always
Thank you Russ
A couple of things that works for me:
1) I have two Ti bikes, a Jones and a Lynskey. My choice of brakes for both bikes: $19 Tektro Aries. They just work, and don't squeal and crack in half like BB-7's. They use Shimano pads that are easy to replace, too.
2) Get a Deore rear derailleur, and upgrade the pulleys to ball bearing XT pulleys. 90% of the performance of XT, for about a $40-50 savings.
3) Cane Creek 40 headsets are the way to go. Best thing is that individual parts for the headsets are available.
Hey buddy, longtime sub and fan of what you do. Hope your home and business made it through Ian without too much damage 🤞🏻
Thank you Marc. I was very fortunate.
What I heard…King Headset, White BB and hubs, Paul brakes.
Ha! Go get ‘em champ.
Makes perfect sense. I bought a very basic hybrid bike by western standards. Just changing the tyres to Maxxis Overdrive Excel, changed it to a fantastic ride! Saving up to change the rims. Great channel. Fan from India.
Nice that you didn’t totally nuke the sponsorship bridge by suggesting going to them (Chris King, White Industries et al) once one has established a “good ride”.🤣. Another great show. Thanks.
Your spot on with your video. My hubby was talked out of a Chris King headset when his Surly Cross Check was built by the local bike store (England) . But I know it's on his wish list! bye the way which Surly was you building? . Stay Safe love from England xx
It was also a cross check. Have I told you my paternal grandmother was from Lincolnshire?
@@ThePsychicDerailleur Your English!!! Just love the way our worlds revolve!! Stay Safe!!
Ill never understand CK obsession or sealed bearing headset obsession, its such a secondary importance
FSA orbit call it a day
3:39 a new shimano un BB is $20 in Ausfalia. Even new shimano hollowtech score retail for $40 (25usd) a tiagra hollowtech $16 new retail here.
I like shimano hubs but they are free, I've got ten pairs in the shed. The hoops are what matter, the new killer dtswiss are $400pr, or basic dtswiss $60pr from bikeinn.
I still don't get the obsession with headsets, no performance gain and way overpriced, way. They all leak water in the bearings, if I run a hose on your stem I can flood your headset and BB in 5 minutes.
I've got a lathe so I make custom top hats for existing headsets because every brand on the market sucks. The hat matters, the cups and bearings don't.
We’ve always had to pay more for Shimano in the US and I would hope $20 wouldn’t keep people from patronizing their LBS. I would take an XT hub over nearly anything else and while I would say most companies are using good quality bearings, I would never say that something like a top cap is more important than bearings. Different strokes I guess.
@@ThePsychicDerailleur that water goes into the stem, down the steerer and pools on the "sealed" headset bearings. The rest goes down to the BB.
I'd love to build you 5 bikes and get you to guess which had the expensive headset in it.
For the BB bearings I believe better brand is key, but the seals are more important. So many reviews from the UK winter killing $100-200 BBS in 6 months.
th-cam.com/video/pfxEWfaNWLk/w-d-xo.html
This is what happens if you ride a king etc in real rain. You can see the bearing races aren't stainless either.
Loose caged bearings have lots of grease and no seals to trap water in the fork or in the steerer
which DT swiss hoops are you referring to?
@@rossanthony7573 E 533 $20usd on bikeinn
FR541 are the new indestructible ones $150usd (search yt for the videos on tyreless downhill smashing tests)
FR560 are the previous model, same $150