Depending how good you are with an airbrush, you could use a variation in tones to trick the eye into what it thinks it can see, vs what it can actually see. It can be a very effective way of creating a patina.
You are quite right, and I do intend to attempt that as well, there should be tapes over the structure, not really rib tapes but similar, I was going to try and simulate those with the airbrush, and a slightly off cream, though if you have seen my airbrushing it is probably not going to work ;)
@cammnut there is a technique that I use, that’s called ‘black basing’. It’s worth seeking out some of the videos on TH-cam that show the technique being used - it’s the plastic model guys that use it the most. I used it very successfully on my DH Mosquito for the camouflage, as it just adds a depth to the paint scheme. Practice makes perfect in this instance! Don’t be afraid to thin the paint down substantially either. It makes life much easier when you’re adding shadowing and staining effects. Keep up the good work anyway! I’m finding the videos fantastic. It was one of your videos that inspired me to use the RDS aileron setup on a Hurricane that I’m building. 👍🏻
Hi, yes i have used it before, and I thought i showed it in a video? Maybe not. Dave Tilbury used it to great effect on his 1/4 scale DVII. I know it as pre shading. Thx for the reminder
This tissue is very similar to ModelSpan, I dont envisage it behaving any different, but could be wrong. Once I figured out you have to soak thinners through the edges as you would Esaki, to soften the underlying dope, to stick it down, it worked fine. The problem was getting the two layers to stick together, not something you ask tissue to do generally.
When attaching the paper to the carbon frame you doped the frame and let it flash-off/dry then used thinners through the tissue to ‘reactivate’ the dope to stick the frame and tissue. You explained that the tissue weave was so fine the thicker dope couldn’t soak through but the thinners could. Would applying dope to the ‘inside’ surface of the first skin (before attaching the second skin) then, after attaching the second skin, apply thinners to the ‘outside’ of the second skin and rub the areas to reactívate the dope to stick the skins together. Could this work? I’m not a model maker and have no experience but find the model building process fascinating, so forgive me if I’m making a suggestion that’s not possible.
That thought did indeed cross my mind, but once both layers were added there was no way to get inside, what I tried should work, and I dont understand why it doesn't. I could rip it all off and try again, and I may well do that eventually. But lets see if it flies first, then we can have another think.... But thx for the great feedback.
@ Sorry, I haven’t explained my thoughts very well. Attach the first skin as you have done then coat the inside of it with dope. This way there is dope inside the frame before attaching the second skin. Then, just as you did with attaching the tissue to the frame initially, apply the thinners to the outside of the second skin and press the skins together. The thinners soak through and reactivate the dope inside. Keeping the pressure until the thinners flash-off again and the dope inside sticks the two skins together. Sorry if I’m being a pain, but if the thinners through the tissue works to attach to the frame then, in theory, it should work with the two skins. Keep up the good work
@@stevenhume7170 Thats exactly what I understood you said. But to get inside/between the covering I would have to remove one surface, and to be honest it would be easier to start again with the covering, as it has stuck together in some places. This tissue is extremely delicate, and easily damaged.
@@cammnut Ah, sorry. That’s the bit I wasn’t clear on, I was thinking if it was to be done again from scratch, not reworking the existing parts. I’ll shut up and just watch 😊
Great video as usual Danny!
Appreciate that
Depending how good you are with an airbrush, you could use a variation in tones to trick the eye into what it thinks it can see, vs what it can actually see.
It can be a very effective way of creating a patina.
You are quite right, and I do intend to attempt that as well, there should be tapes over the structure, not really rib tapes but similar, I was going to try and simulate those with the airbrush, and a slightly off cream, though if you have seen my airbrushing it is probably not going to work ;)
@cammnut there is a technique that I use, that’s called ‘black basing’. It’s worth seeking out some of the videos on TH-cam that show the technique being used - it’s the plastic model guys that use it the most.
I used it very successfully on my DH Mosquito for the camouflage, as it just adds a depth to the paint scheme.
Practice makes perfect in this instance! Don’t be afraid to thin the paint down substantially either. It makes life much easier when you’re adding shadowing and staining effects.
Keep up the good work anyway! I’m finding the videos fantastic. It was one of your videos that inspired me to use the RDS aileron setup on a Hurricane that I’m building. 👍🏻
Hi, yes i have used it before, and I thought i showed it in a video? Maybe not. Dave Tilbury used it to great effect on his 1/4 scale DVII. I know it as pre shading. Thx for the reminder
Excellent, how are you getting on with RDS? I love it
@ Yeah I’ve seen it called pre shading before as well. I’m not familiar with the model you’ve mentioned, so I’ll have a look out for it. 👍🏻
Have you tried model span...works a treat😊
This tissue is very similar to ModelSpan, I dont envisage it behaving any different, but could be wrong. Once I figured out you have to soak thinners through the edges as you would Esaki, to soften the underlying dope, to stick it down, it worked fine. The problem was getting the two layers to stick together, not something you ask tissue to do generally.
When attaching the paper to the carbon frame you doped the frame and let it flash-off/dry then used thinners through the tissue to ‘reactivate’ the dope to stick the frame and tissue. You explained that the tissue weave was so fine the thicker dope couldn’t soak through but the thinners could.
Would applying dope to the ‘inside’ surface of the first skin (before attaching the second skin) then, after attaching the second skin, apply thinners to the ‘outside’ of the second skin and rub the areas to reactívate the dope to stick the skins together. Could this work?
I’m not a model maker and have no experience but find the model building process fascinating, so forgive me if I’m making a suggestion that’s not possible.
That thought did indeed cross my mind, but once both layers were added there was no way to get inside, what I tried should work, and I dont understand why it doesn't.
I could rip it all off and try again, and I may well do that eventually. But lets see if it flies first, then we can have another think.... But thx for the great feedback.
@ Sorry, I haven’t explained my thoughts very well.
Attach the first skin as you have done then coat the inside of it with dope. This way there is dope inside the frame before attaching the second skin. Then, just as you did with attaching the tissue to the frame initially, apply the thinners to the outside of the second skin and press the skins together. The thinners soak through and reactivate the dope inside. Keeping the pressure until the thinners flash-off again and the dope inside sticks the two skins together.
Sorry if I’m being a pain, but if the thinners through the tissue works to attach to the frame then, in theory, it should work with the two skins.
Keep up the good work
@@stevenhume7170 Thats exactly what I understood you said. But to get inside/between the covering I would have to remove one surface, and to be honest it would be easier to start again with the covering, as it has stuck together in some places. This tissue is extremely delicate, and easily damaged.
@@cammnut
Ah, sorry. That’s the bit I wasn’t clear on, I was thinking if it was to be done again from scratch, not reworking the existing parts.
I’ll shut up and just watch 😊
Lol no please join in the conversations, it often helps. Thx again
200 build videos……and the problem with that is?……🤣🤣🤷🏼♂️