Nice, simple tutorial. One thing you didn’t mention about hot stamping a blade is that after stamping on a hot blade, a heat spot is created in the area of the Mark, meaning the carbon structure has been “disturbed” and spread out. It is imperative that the blade be normalized (at least one full cycle) after hit stamping in order to redistribute the carbon. Otherwise, the marked area can actually become a weak spot. Just one simple cycle to non-magnetic will do the trick, and should add less than 5 minutes to the entire process. Better to take the time then, opposed to having a blade break due a weak spot. Cheers!
Im considering buying a touch mark - I work with 1084 and 01 steels. Do I need to normalize the steel or can i continue with heat treat? Also what temp do you remove blade to hot stamp? Ta
I also normalize if it's a stock removal blade that I stamp. It takes a little longer but helps with any stress you put in the blade from stamping. Hope this helps
ok so just to clarify... If I have steel that has already been normalized and I remove stock to make a blade from it, in order to stamp the blade, I would have to heat it, stamp it and normalise it again before performing a Heat Treat? I couldnt just heat it, take it out of the fire momentarily to stamp it and return to heat treating?
I just ordered mine today, Buwyaa!
Nice! I have been using mine for a while now
Nice, simple tutorial. One thing you didn’t mention about hot stamping a blade is that after stamping on a hot blade, a heat spot is created in the area of the Mark, meaning the carbon structure has been “disturbed” and spread out. It is imperative that the blade be normalized (at least one full cycle) after hit stamping in order to redistribute the carbon. Otherwise, the marked area can actually become a weak spot. Just one simple cycle to non-magnetic will do the trick, and should add less than 5 minutes to the entire process. Better to take the time then, opposed to having a blade break due a weak spot. Cheers!
Yeah I have learned a lot in the 2 years since I posted the video. I should probably update it
Hello sir, what size stamp is this?
Would the heat of the blade when hot stamping not temper the face of the stamp over time?
Now I electro etch because I did have problems with it. I am posting the electro etch video in a couple of weeks
nice work..from where i can order a customized stamp like this ?
I ordered mine from buckeye engraving. I have also been doing electro etching which I really like
@@ForgedEdge thank you :) keep up the good work. peace
Im considering buying a touch mark - I work with 1084 and 01 steels. Do I need to normalize the steel or can i continue with heat treat?
Also what temp do you remove blade to hot stamp?
Ta
I always normalize if I forge a blade. I stamp the blade when it gets to non magnetic. I found this gives me the best stamp
I also normalize if it's a stock removal blade that I stamp. It takes a little longer but helps with any stress you put in the blade from stamping. Hope this helps
ok so just to clarify... If I have steel that has already been normalized and I remove stock to make a blade from it, in order to stamp the blade, I would have to heat it, stamp it and normalise it again before performing a Heat Treat?
I couldnt just heat it, take it out of the fire momentarily to stamp it and return to heat treating?
@@RC_FITNESS_ if it's already normalized you should be good to just stamp and return to heat treating
@@ForgedEdge sweet. Thanks for your time and expertise!
Did you create the design of this stamp?
Yeah it took me a long time to come up with it
What size is this stamp?
1/2"x1/2"
Now I use electro etching for my logo